8 x 12 Garden Shed. Assembly Instructions

Transcription

1 8 x 12 Garden Shed Assembly Instructions Required Tools: Screwgun or Variable Speed Electric Drill Screwdriver Bit (Robertson #2) Hammer Handsaw Tape Measure Step Ladder Optional Tools: Square / Level (for floor construction) 1/8 Drill Bit Shingles Required: 7 bundles asphalt or 8 bundles cedar shingles. Note: Assistance may be required to position and secure some of the components. Parts List on Next Page The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your shed. Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple (and fun) for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature. Should you have any questions (or suggestions), please don't hesitate to call our toll free customer service line or (905) in the Toronto area. Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the contents of this package against the parts list prior to assembly. 144 " 96" Floor Plan 36 1/2" Photo shows Chalet Siding. Cedar and Canexel Siding are horizontal. Please visit our website to view installation videos Ver rev. 08/01/00

2 Guarantee The contents of this package are guaranteed to be complete and fit for assembly. Check the contents of the package against the parts list. If a part is missing or damaged, please don't call the store, call our toll free customer service line or (905) in the Toronto area and we will assist you in getting a replacement part. Please visit for more information. Parts Checklist and Table of Contents Note: Lumber is graded from one side only. Check each part for the most attractive face and use it facing out. Section A - General Instructions Page 1 Section 7 - Mounting Corner Trim & Windows page Corner Trim - 1 x 3 x 84" (gables are 2 3/8") 2 - Window Assemblies Section 1 - Floor 3 Section 8 - Installing the Door 2 - Vertical Door Jamb - 1" x 3 1/2" x 71 7/8" Section 2 - Front Wall Assembly Horiz. Door Jamb - 1" x 3 1/2" x 36 " 2 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 47 3/4" 1 - Horiz. Door Threshold - 3/4" x 4 1/2" x 41" 2 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 89 1/4" 2 - Vertical Door Casing - 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 72" 9 - Studs - 2 x 4 x 72" 1 - Top Horiz. Door Casing - 3/4" x 1 5/8" x 46" 4 - Window Spacers - 2 x 4 x 22 1/2" 1 - Threshold Support - 3/4" x 1 5/8" x 40" 8 - Siding - 531/2" 2 - Door Stops 3/4" x 1" x 71 7/8" 12 - Siding - 151/4" 1 - Door Stop 3/4" x 1" x 32 3/4" 1 - Door Assembly 25 Section 3 - Back Wall Assembly 13 Section 9 - Installing the Flower Boxes & Shutters Plates - 2 x 4 x 68 1/2" 2 - Flower Box Fronts - 1 x 6 x 35 3/4" 2 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 68 1/2" 2 - Flower Box Backs - 1 x 6 x 35 3/4" 12 - Studs - 2 x 4 x 72" 4 - Flower Box Sides - 1 x 6 x 5 3/4" 2 - Flower Box Bottoms - 1 x 6 x 35 3/4" - Siding - 72" 4 - Flower Box Braces 2 - Shutter Assemblies Section 4 - Side Wall Assemblies Plates - 2 x 4 x 96" 12 - Studs - 2 x 4 x 72" - Siding - 96" Section 5 - Raising the Roof *** 17 Section 6 - Erecting the walls 22 *** See next page - page B - for roof parts checklist and identification guide *** Miscellaneous Hardware bag 3" Nails, 1 1/4" Screws, 2 1/2" Screws, 2 Hinges, Lock Set bag 1 3/4" Nails bag Roofing Nails rev. 08/01/00 page A

3 30 Parts Checklist and Identification Guide - 8 x 12 Roof Parts List Hip Roof Framing Plan Common Rafters 2 x 4 x 61 1/8" A side view 61 1/8" B C A 1 1/2" 7/8" C G top view 5 1/2" E Hip Rafters 2 x 6 x 79 1/8" 22.5 side view B A F 79 1/8" D A top view 7 1/4" F A E Jack Rafters 2 x 4 x 34" (4 lefts and 4 rights) 30 34" side view C C G 1 1/2" bird's mouth 5 1/2" 7/8" top view left right B C A top view Ridge Beam 2 x 6 x 49 1/2" - D Roof Plates 2 - x 2 3 x x 448" x 48 - E- E Roof Plates 2 - x 2 3 x x 496" x 96 - F- F Roof Plates 2 - x 2 3 x x 491" x 89 - G- G Side Fascia 1 X 3 1/2" x 60" Side Soffits 1 X 6 X 58 3/8" rev. 02/09/ Frnt. & Bk. Fascia 1 X 3 1/2" x 84" Frnt. & Bk. Soffits 1 X 6 X 84" - 3-4' Roof Panels " Roof Panels page B

4 A) General Instructions and Helpful Hints Please read the instructions BEFORE beginning assembly Assembly Instruction Organization The assembly instructions are organized into ten sections. It is strongly recommended that you assemble your shed in the order presented. Our experience shows that assemblers meet with the most success when all the parts in the kit are identified and sorted according to the section where they will be needed prior to assembly. Please refer to the parts checklist on the front cover. Marking the Plates The framing dimensions for stud placement given in these instructions are "on center" measurements. The distances shown are measured from the end of the plate to the middle of the stud. Studs are 1 1/2" wide, so the edges of the stud are 3/4" on each side of center. When laying out the plates it is often convenient to mark the stud center first, and then make a mark 3/4" away on one or both sides of the center mark. Indicate the center mark with an "X" so as not to confuse it with an edge mark. 24" 48" 3/4" When marking plates for the walls, both the top and bottom plates can be marked at the same time by laying them side by side. Use a square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other. Screwing and Nailing When screwing or nailing be careful not to set the fastener too close to the edge, or the end, of a piece of wood. Corners and casings should have 3" between a fastener and the end of the piece to prevent splitting. As an added precaution, a pilot hole may be drilled for screws using an 1/8 drill bit. When nailing the cedar channel siding smooth side out to the 2x4 framing, place the nails so that they penetrate the thicker part of the board, set in at least 3/4" from the overlap and underlap. Canexel siding has a nailing strip near the top of the piece. rev. 08/09/00 3/4" underlap groove 3/4" overlap Page 1

5 Squaring a Frame To square a frame, measure the diagonals (from corner to corner each way), checking that the two measurements are the same. If they are not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that the two measurements become the same. Measurement A should equal Measurement B B A Recommended Finish Treat the exposed parts of your shed with a minimum of two coats of a transparent natural or coloured opaque finish. A quality brand name finish is available at the retailer where you purchased your shed. Canexel siding is pre-finished and does not require painting. This treatment is required in order to validate your manufacturer s warranty. A Word about Pool Cabanas If you intend to use your shed as a facility to house gas-fired pool heating equipment, be sure to consult with your local gas service person on the placement of your equipment before erecting the shed. This will ensure that all clearances are adhered to, and that you are able to position the roof trusses so that they don't interfere with the stack on your gas heater. A Note on Lumber Dimensions and Wood Properties Throughout the instructions, reference is made to various lumber dimensions. Please remember that planing at the sawmill has reduced the size of dimensioned lumber such as 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, 1x8, 1x6 etc. These materials are 1/4" to 1/2" thinner and narrower than stated (ie 2x3 is actually 1 1/2" x 2 1/2", 1x6 is 3/4" x 5 1/2"). In cases where a depth or width is given for material that we have machined (trim, door casing, etc.), the measurements are usually as stated. All of the parts in your kit have gone through a quality control process in our plant, but keep in mind that wood is a natural material and is prone to swelling and shrinkage. Therefore, the size of some of the parts may vary slightly from the dimensions given. This may result in some minor joint variations, but should not be cause for concern. When you are sorting the parts in your kit, you may wish to set aside the straighter studs for use as door studs and corner studs. When assembling parts, consider which face or edge of the piece looks best and keep that side exposed. rev. 01/31/00 Page 2

6 1) Floor (supplied with kit) Your shed must be installed on a floor system. It may be installed on a plywood floor system, or a concrete slab. The plywood floor system must be used on top of an interlocking brick platform. 8' X 12' Floor Kit OR 4" CONCRETE PAD 2 x 4 pressure treated plates The concrete pad may be larger than shown, but it must be at least 144" x 96". Attach 2 x 4 pressure treated lumber plates to the pad as shown with bolts or masonry nails. Ensure that the plates are level (shim them if required) prior to bolting or nailing them to the pad.the plates must be square and level for proper assembly of the shed. An uneven foundation will make it difficult to properly fit the roof. rev. 01/20/99 The edges of the wall panels must be protected from moisture contact to prevent damage to the siding. Under no circumstances should the siding be in contact with the ground. page 3

7 Site Preparation 1) The site you choose for your shed should be well drained and free from puddling. 2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to leveling and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assembly of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grass under the shed. 3) If a concrete pad is being used, be sure that the plates are level and square. You may need to shim the plates prior to bolting or nailing them to the pad. Optional Strategies for Difficult Sites If it is not possible to level the site, or you wish to raise your shed in areas of poor drainage, 2x6 pressure treated runners supported by concrete patio stones or poured concrete footings may be used. 1) Set down patio stones or pour footings positioned as shown in the diagram below. We recommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive shimming. 2) On the bottom of the floor, place the 2x6 runners on their face, 6" from the edge of the floor. Attach using two - 3" galvanized nails per joist. 3) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. Add cedar shims or blocks between the patio stones and the 2 x 6 runners to level the frame. 12' 6" 1'x 2' patio stones 2 x 6 runners 6" rev. 01/20/99 page 4

8 8 x 12 Floor Assembly Instructions Required Tools: Hammer Tape Measure Optional Tools: Square / Level Note: Assistance may be required to position and secure some of the components. Parts Checklist: bag bag Plates - 2 x 4 x 72" Joists - 2 x 4 x 93" Floor Sheeting Panel 4'x8' Pressure Treated Runners 80" long Pressure Treated Runners 64" long (or 2 ft lengths) 3" Nails 1 3/4" Nails The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your shed. Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple (and fun) for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature. Should you have any questions (or suggestions), please don't hesitate to call our toll free customer service line or (905) in the Toronto area. Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the contents of this package against the parts list prior to assembly. 12' 8' Top View Ver rev. 04/03/00

9 Site Preparation 1) The site you choose for your shed should be well drained and free from puddling. 2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to leveling and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assembly of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grass under the shed. Floor Assembly plate Floor Frame (TWO to be built) 6 joists plate 16" 32" 48" 64" 72" flush here 1) Lay out the joists and plates out on their edges as shown above. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. 3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for second section2-3" nails rev. 03/28/99 flush here page 6

10 4) Flip over one of the floor sections and align it with the other. Push the two sections together ensuring that they are flush with each other. Using 3" nails, attach the sections together by nailing through the two inside joists at 8" intervals. 3" Nails 5) Once the floor framing is complete, square the floor by measuring the diagonals (from corner to corner each way), checking that the two measurements are the same. If they are not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that the two measurements become the same. Measurement A should equal measurement B B A rev. 03/28/99 page 7

11 6) On the bottom of the floor, place the runners on their face, 6" from the edge of the floor. Attach using two - 3" galvanized nails per joist. 7) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. We recommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive shimming. Add cedar shims or blocks between the patio stones and the runners to level the frame. Re-check all sides after raising any one side. Guard against possible sag in the middle of the floor. 6" 1'x 2' patio stones runners 6" rev. 03/27/99 page 8

12 8) Position one of the 4' x 8' floor panels ensuring that the edge of the panel stays flush with the outside edge of the outer joist and the front and back plates. The inner panel edge should be centered on the fourth joist. The edges of the panel will assist you in keeping the floor square. Secure the sheet with two - 1 3/4" nails at each outside corner and one nail at each inside corner. Floor panel centered on fourth joist Panel Alignment Detail flush here 04/03/96 page 9

13 9) Position the second floor panel flush with the first. Secure the panel using one - 1 3/4" nail in each corner. 10) Position the third floor panel flush with the second. Secure the panel using one - 1 3/4" nail in each corner. Finish the floor by nailing both panels about every 8" to the all joists and plates. You're now ready to begin the construction of your shed. rev. 03/28/99 page 10

14 2) Front Wall Assembly 1) The front wall assembly is built in two sections. Lay the 47 3/4" plate and four of the 72" studs on edge and construct the first section as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. 3) Position the window spacers (2 x 4 x 22 1/2") as shown in the detail below. Using 3" nails, nail each spacer twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush. outside edge flush here flush here 2-3" nails 13 1/4" 37 1/4" 47 3/4" 4) Lay out the 89 1/4" plate and five of the 72" studs on edge and construct the second section as shown below. 5) Nail the studs twice to the plate using 3" nails. Ensure that the studs stay flush with the plate at the top and bottom. Attach the window spacers as shown. 5 1/2" 3" nails 34 1/2" 3" nails Window Spacer Positioning Detail 12 1/2" 36 1/2" 50 1/2" rev. 05/14/ /4" page 11

15 8) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. course 53 1/2" 53 1/2" 53 1/2" course s 15 1/2" 15 1/4" 15 1/4" 15 1/4" 15 1/ " course s 53 1/2" first course 53 1/2" Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" Siding overhangs end stud (dotted line) by approximately 3 1/2" 9) Position the two 53 1/2" canexel pieces (see detail opposite) so that they overhang the bottom plate by 3/4". The siding overhangs end stud (dotted line) by approximately 3 1/2" and remains flush with inside of the door and window openings. Fasten the first two pieces to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Apply the next courses, working up to the bottom of the windows. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Once you reach the bottom of the windows, begin applying the smaller 15 1/4" pieces and finish with courses of 53 1/2" siding. Trim the last two boards to fit flush with the top of the top plate. The top of the window frames may need to be cut out of the 2nd last course. There are 7 courses of canexel siding. starter course of siding bottom plate rev. 05/19/14 page 12

16 3) Back Wall Assembly 1) Lay out the two back wall sections as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the back wall plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. 3) Push the two sections together ensuring that they are flush with each other. Using twelve - 3" nails, attach the sections together by nailing through the two inside studs. 3" Nails 21 1/2" 45 1/2" 6 81/2" 24" 48" 68 1/2" flush here flush here 2-3" nails rev. 03/26/99 page 13

17 Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 3 1/2" Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" 4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 5) There are 14-72" pieces of canexel siding required for this wall. Position the two 72"first pieces of canexel siding so that they overhang the bottom plate by 3/4" and the end studs by 3 1/2". The joint between the two 72" pieces of siding will fall where the plates meet (68.5" mark). Fasten the first piece to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Trim the last course so that it is flush with the top plate. rev. 05/03/15 page 14

18 4) Side Wall Assembly (left and right sides) 1) Lay out the 96" plates and the six studs on 19" centers as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. 72" 19 3/4" 38 3/4" 57 3/4" 76 3/4" 96" rev. 05/14/99 page 15

19 3) Recheck the squareness of the wall using the technique described in the General Instructions on page 1. 4) There are 7-96" pieces of canexel siding required for each gable wall. Position the 96" piece of canexel siding so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4" and is flush with the end studs. Fasten the first piece to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Fasten the rest of the siding pieces. They should be flush with the outside edges of the end studs. Again, measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. The last piece should be trimmed flush with the top plate. flush with frame flush with frame Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" rev. 02/09/00 page 16

20 5) Hip Roof Framing *Note: You may wish to frame the roof on the floor prior to erecting the walls and set it aside while the walls are erected. This makes it easier to build the roof, keep it square, and pre-cut the sheeting (while the 13" panels may be attached, do not nail the larger panels to the framing as this will make the roof too heavy to lift). Once the walls are up, the roof can be lifted onto the walls and sheeted (it helps to have extra assistance for this step-two strong people can do it, but four is better). If you do not wish to pre-frame the roof, proceed to section 6, Erecting the Walls. For the assembly of the roof, two types of fasteners have been provided: 3" screws and 3" nails. Nails can be used for all the assembly, but it is suggested that screws be used for ease of construction. 1) Place the top plates on top of the wall sections (or around the outer edge of the floor if you choose to pre-frame the roof). Position a 2 x 4 x 96" and a 2 x 4x 48"end to end across the front wall and the other 2 x 4 x 96" and 2 x 4 x 48" across the back wall. Alternate the pieces so that the joints do not line up from front to back. Position the 2 x 4 x 89" pieces across the sides. This frame should now be exactly 8' x 12'. Make sure that all joints are tight and flush. The frame must be perfectly square in order for the rest of the roof to fit together properly. See the Top Plate Detail. 2 x 4 x 96" 2 x 4 x 48" 2 x 4 x 89" Alternate the Joints Top Plate Detail rev. 02/09/00 2 x 4 x 48" 2 x 4 x 96" 2) If you are pre-framing the roof on the floor, join each plate using two fasteners per joint and tack the plates to the floor, keeping them flush and square to the plywood. These tacks will be removed later. If you are framing on top of the walls, nail the plates to the walls every 16". 3) Mark the centers of each side of the frame (see "marking the Plates" in the General Instructions). 4) Mark the center of the ridge beam. Attach six of the common rafters (A) as shown on the Hip Roof Framing Plan on Page B (two at each end and two in the middle). Use either three - 3" screws or three - 3" nails per rafter (one through tip of the rafter, and one through each side). 5) Attach the other two common rafters to the end of the ridge beam as shown. Place this assembly on the plates and attach the center common rafter on the front and the back to the plates, keeping them flush with the marks made in step 2. Make sure that the bird's mouths are tight against the top plates. Use three nails (or screws) for each rafter - one on one side, and two on the other. page 17

21 6) Attach the end common rafters to the plates in the same manner. 7) Attach the remaining four common rafters to the plates, making sure they are parallel to the center common rafters. end common rafter ridge beam common rafter (A) 8) Install the four hip rafters between the common rafters as shown on page B. Keep the top corners of the hips flush with the top of the common rafters. Attach using four fasteners per hip. See Hip Nailing Detail. Attach the hips to the plates using four fasteners per hip. Make sure that the corner of the plates meets the center of the bird's mouth. Also make sure the corner of the plates is tight to the bird's mouth. See Hip Placement Detail. The corner of the plates is tight to the bird's mouth plate The corner of the plates meets the center of the bird's mouth plate Hip Placement Detail use four fasteners per hip Hip Nailing Detail Jack Rafter Detail 9) Install the jack rafters using three fasteners for the bottom and two for the top. Make sure that the tops of the jacks are flush with the hips and that the bird's mouths are tight to the plates. The jacks should be parallel to the common rafters and square to the plates. See Jack Rafter Detail. 10) If you pre-framed the roof on the floor, remove the tacks that were holding the plates to the floor. rev. 02/09/00 jack rafter hip rafter top view page 18

22 Hip Roof Sheathing 1) Place one of the 13" roof panels on the front side of the roof as shown. Position one end of the panel on the center of the middle rafter and keep the bottom edge up approximately 1/2" from the end of the rafters. Mark and cut the angle at the hip rafter. Nail the strip to the rafters using three - 1 3/4" nails per rafter (the 13" panels can be nailed permanently even if you choose to pre-frame the roof). See Sheathing Detail 1. 2) Place another 13" roof panel on the side of the roof as shown. Position one end of the panel on the middle of the jack rafter, mark, cut, and nail as in step 1. Use the off-cut piece from step 1 to complete this side. 3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 to complete the remaining sides of the roof. step 1 mark along these lines step 2 Sheathing Detail 1 offcut from step 1 4) With all of the 13" panels in place, cut one of the 4' roof panels in half to produce two panels 48"x48". Place one of these panels in the middle of the roof. See Sheathing Detail 2. Center the panel on the rafters so that approximately half of each outside rafter is exposed. Nail the panel to the rafters every 8". If you are pre-framing the roof, only tack the panel on either side so that the panel can be removed before lifting the roof. Use the second half of the cut panel for the other side of the roof as shown. rev. 02/09/00 page 19

23 Sheathing Detail 2 5) Place another 4' roof panel across the side of the roof as shown in Sheathing Detail 3. Center the panel on the center common rafter and cut along the hips as in step 1. Nail or tack the sheet as in step 4. 6) Place the off-cuts from step 5 on the adjacent front and back sides. Mark, cut, and nails as before. off cut mark along these lines step 6 Sheathing Detail 3 off cut 7) Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other side of the roof. *Only follow steps 8 and 9 if you have pre-framed the roof. 8) If you have pre-framed the roof, identify all panels for easy re-assembly. Remove all panels (except the 13" panels) and set them aside. Lift the roof off of the floor and set it aside. 9) Once the walls are erected, lift the roof onto them. Position the roof so that the top plates are flush with the top plates of the walls. Nail or screw the plates together every 16". Replace all of the sheeting and nail to the rafters every 8". page 20 rev. 02/09/00

24 Soffits NOTE: The roof must be securely fastened to the walls before mounting the soffit and fascia. 7/16" waferboard wall section 1) Place a side soffit under the side rafters as shown. Position the soffit so that it is tight to the siding and so that the miter lines up with the corner of the shed. The end of the soffit should now be centered on the common rafter. Nail in place using two - 1 3/4" nails per rafter. 2) Place a front soffit under the front rafters as shown. Position the soffit so that the joint with the side soffit is tight. The end of the soffit should now be centered on the common rafter. Nail as before. 3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other three corners of the roof. fascia siding soffit wall plate Soffit Plan centered on middle rafter centered on hip rafter front soffit middle rafter side soffit centered on side rafter side common rafter rev. 02/03/00 page 21

25 Fascia 1) Place a piece of side fascia on the rafter ends and soffit edge as shown. Position the fascia so that it is flush with the edge of the front soffit and so that it hangs below the soffit by approximately 1" along its length (if the fascia hangs down any further it will interfere with the operation of the door). Attach the fascia to the soffit and rafters using 1 3/4" nails (nail into the soffit edge and rafter ends approximately every 24"). Fascia Joint Detail front/back fascia 2) Place a piece of front fascia on the rafter ends and soffit edge as shown. Position the fascia so that it is flush with the outside edge of the side fascia and so that it hangs down approximately 1" as before. Fasten as detailed in step 1. 3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining three corners. side fascia 90 degree butt joint at end of fascia front/back fascia side fascia Fascia Plan front fascia middle rafter side fascia rev. 01/29/99 page 22

26 6) Erecting the Walls Re-check the floor before erecting the walls. It is very important that the floor is flat and level to insure proper installation of the roof. 1) Starting with the side wall that is most convenient, lift the wall into position as shown below. Center the wall on the floor so that both ends are flush with the floor (if there is any overhang, make it equal on both ends). Use scrap packaging to brace the wall diagonally from the floor to the edge of the wall. 2) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, fasten the wall by nailing the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. overhang, if any should be equal on both sides of the floor nail through bottom plate every 16" with 3" nails scrap packaging material floor Be sure to adequately support the side wall before proceeding 3) Slide the back wall into place ensuring that the corner is tight with the gable wall. 4) Adjust the wall sections so that the top plates are flush with each other (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls). With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner together from the outside by nailing seven - 1 3/4" nails through the panel overhang into the side wall corner stud. Reinforce the corner from the inside by using 3" nails at the top, middle and bottom. flush here gable wall top plate wall top plate fasten inside corner with 3" nails rev. 02/03/00 page 22

27 5) Lift the second side wall into position as shown below. Ensure that the inside corner is tight with the back wall. 6) Fasten the corners together as detailed in step 4. 7) Slide the front wall into place between the two side walls. 8) Fasten both front wall corners as detailed in step 4. 9) To ensure proper installation of the roof panels, square the shed by measuring diagonally across the top corners of the walls, and pushing or pulling the corners until the measurements are equal. (This technique is illustrated under the title "Squaring a Frame" in the General Instructions, page 1). 1 3/4" nails 10) After the top of the shed is square, nail the remaining two corners to the floor. With one person pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate of the front, back and side walls to the floor at 16" intervals. Do not nail the front plate where it crosses the door opening. rev. 02/03/00 1 3/4" nails 11) Now place the roof on the walls, or frame it according to section 5. page 23

28 7) Mounting the Corner Trim and Windows Corner Trim 1) Using five - 1 3/4" nails, fasten a piece of corner trim to a side wall, positioned as shown below. Ensure that the top of the trim is tight against the soffit and that the outside edge is flush with the front wall panel. 2) Fasten another piece of corner trim to the front wall as shown below. Ensure that the top is tight against the soffit and that the outside edge is flush with the face of the corner trim installed in step 1. 3) Repeat steps one and two for the remaining three corners. Note siding is horizontal on Canexel Models overlap front/back corner trim side wall corner trim Windows 1) Place the window in the window opening. Adjust the window in the opening so that the casing is parallel to the siding grooves. 2) Nail the window into place with 1 3/4" nails, one in each corner and three on each side. 3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second window. rev. 02/03/00 page 24

29 8) Installing the Door 1) Cut out the bottom plate where it crosses the door opening. Use a handsaw and cut the plate flush with the door studs. The rough opening should now be 36 1/2" x 73 1/2". 2) Decide which way you want your door to operate. It may be hinged on either side and may swing in or out (consider the intended use of your shed and possible space constraints). Lay the door on the floor of the shed and arrange the horizontal door jamb, the vertical door jambs and the threshold around it. See Door Layout Detail. 36" 1/4" 34" 1/4" horizontal door jamb 3/16" 8" 71 7/8" 71 1/2" Door Layout Detail vertical door jamb 3/16" 8" threshold support 41" threshold rev. 02/03/00 page 25

30 3) Place one hinge 8" from the bottom of the door, and the other hinge 8" from the top of the door. Ensure that the top of the hinge-pins point to the top of the door and that the front edges of the hinge plates are flush with the face of the door. See Hinge Detail 1 and 2. Attach the hinges to the door using the 1 1/4" screws provided. 4) Place on of the vertical door jambs on edge on the door face next to the hinges. Position the jamb so that the overhang is the same at the top and bottom of the door. Flip the hinges open so they lay flat against the 3 1/2" face of the jamb. Lift the jamb up until the back edge of the hinge plate is flush with the edge of the jamb. Attach the hinge to the jamb using only two screws, leave the middle hole empty (this is where the jamb will be attached to the door stud). These screws will protrude through the back of the jamb, but should not interfere with the installation of the door. See Hinge Detail 1 and 2. 5) Now flip the hinged jamb to the closed position. Attach the horizontal door jamb to the vertical jamb using either three - 1 3/4" nails or two - 2 1/2" screws provided (pre-drill holes if you use the screws). Make sure that the horizontal jamb is flush with the end and edge of the vertical jamb. 3 1/2" flush leave this hole empty leave this hole empty here 3/16" 8" approx. Hinge Detail 1 flush here 8" 3/16" approx. flush here flush here door Hinge Detail 2 rev. 02/03/00 page 25

31 6) Now attach the threshold to the bottom of the vertical jamb. The front of the threshold is the edge that has the 2 1/2" tabs ( these tabs go flush to the outside of the front wall panels). Keep this edge facing the right way (this depends if your door swings in or out). Keep the inside edge of the threshold flush to the inside edge of the vertical jamb and the outside edge of the threshold flush to the outside face of the vertical jamb. Nail or screw as in step 5. See Threshold Detail. 7) Attach the other vertical jamb in the same manner as the first. 8) Stand the door into the opening and make sure that the jambs are flush to the outside of the wall panels. Check the gap between the door and the jambs - it should be even around all sides. If necessary, use the shims provided to shim the door behind each hinge in order to even out the gap (split the shims as required so that you will have enough). If the hinged jamb is tight to the door stud and the gap around the door is even, the shims are not necessary. Open the door and attach the jamb through the third hole in each hinge using the 2 1/2" screws provided. 9) Shim the other vertical jamb and door stud at the top, middle, and bottom. Make sure that the gap between the door and the jamb is even. Using 2 1/2" screws, attach the jamb to the shims and door stud. Center the screws in the middle of the jamb so that when the door stop is attached, it will hide the screws. 10) Mount the lock set according to the manufacturer's instructions. 11) Close the door and place the vertical door stop on the left and right side of the door. Position the stop so that it is flush to the door face. Do not push the stop too tight to the door, as this will impede the performance of the door and lock set. Nail the door stop to the jambs using five - 1 3/4" nails per stop. Nail the horizontal door stop between the tops of the vertical door stops (you may wish to temporarily shim the horizontal door jamb with scrap material to avoid forcing the jambs apart at the top). 12) Using four - 1 3/4" nails, attach the threshold support to the wall under the lip of the threshold. The ends should be flush with the ends of the threshold. See Door Layout Detail. 13) Place the vertical door casing on the threshold lip. Position the casing approximately 1/8" to 1/4" from the inside edge of the jamb. Attach using five - 1 3/4" nails. Repeat for the other side of the door. See Door Casing Detail. 14) Center the horizontal door casing on top of the vertical casing and attach with three nails. flu sh h ere vertical jamb threshold vertical door casing vertical door jamb threshold threshold support flush here rev. 02/03/00 Threshold Detail Door Casing Detail page 26

32 9) Installing the Flower Boxes and Shutters Flower Box Assembly 1) Insert the side pieces into the dadoes (slots) on the flower box back as shown below (the front and back pieces are identical). Screw the back to each side piece with two - 2 1/2" screws. 2) Position the front piece onto the side pieces so that they fit into the dadoes. Fasten the front piece to the side pieces with four - 2 1/2" screws in the same manner as the back piece. dado 2 1/2 screws 3) Fasten the bottom piece using 1 1/4 nails as shown below. Be sure to angle the nails when nailing into the front piece. 4) Position the brackets 5" from the edges of the flower box. Using two - 1 1/4 screws, screw the brackets to the flower box bottom as shown below. rev. 01/29/00 page 27

33 Flower Box Installation 1) Position the flower box tight against the bottom of the window frame and center the it under the window. 2 1/2" screws through flower box and into window studs 1 1/4" screws through braces 2) Use the 2 1/2" screws to attach the box to the studs on either side of the window and 1 1/4 screws to fasten the bottom of the braces. Shutters 1) Position the shutter beside the window frame so that the shutter bottom sits on the flower box and is approximately 1 from the window casing (center the shutter between the window casing and the corner trim). Fasten the top with two - 1 1/4 screws under the top cross piece. Fasten the bottom in the same manner. 2) Repeat step 1 for the remaining three shutters. screw here screw here Congratulations! That completes the assembly of your shed. Remember to finish it with a quality stain to validate the warranty as detailed in the first section of the instructions. When properly finished your shed will give you many years of trouble free service. If you have any comments or suggestions, please call us on our toll free line. rev. 01/29/00 page 28

34 INSTALLING ASPHALT SHINGLES (REQUIRED) Using four nails per shingle, nail as shown in drawing. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with,but not cutting into shingle surface. Follow illustrations to apply Shingles to your Building. 1" (2.5 cm) 1/2" (1.3 cm) Sealing Strip 1" (2.5 cm) NAILS After completing shingling your building, remove any overhanging, excess shingles by cutting them off with a utility knife. First row of Shingles are installed backwards to make a seal barrier-flush to bottom of Drip Edge It is okay if last Shingle overlaps it will be cut off later Roof Shingle Line up notch on top of Shingle with edge of Roof to stagger the Shingles Line up notch on side of Shingle with edge of Roof to stagger the Shingles

35 INSTALLING SHINGLES (CONTINUED) To cover the Peak of your building, cut strip Shingles into individual pieces by dividing at cutout as shown. Bend each piece over the Peak and nail 5-7/8 (14.9cm) above the butt edge and 1 (2.5cm) in from each side, exposing each piece 5-1/8 (13cm) to the weather. Cut single Shingle into three pieces Cut any Shingles Overhanging Sides 5-1/8" (13cm) 5-7/8" (14.9cm) NAIL INSPECTION After assembly is finished, check the entire building inside and out for any protruding nails. Pound any protruding nails into the wood or cut them off flush. Roof Panel Trim Nails Not in Studs Nail That Missed Stud REQUIRED MAINTENANCE See requirements in the limited conditional warranty on the last page of this manual. Keep Sprinklers Away From Building Keep Grass Trimmed See Warranty Requirements

36 Limited Conditional Warranty WARRANTY We warrant the following: 1. Every product is warranted from defects in workmanship and manufacturing for two years. 2. All hardware and metal components are warranted for two years. 3. Trim is warranted for 2 years. 4. Waferboard and T1-11 siding and sheathing are warranted for two years. 5. Cedar and Canexel siding are warranted for 5 years. We will repair, replace or pay for the affected part. In no event shall we pay the cost of labor or installation or any other costs related thereto. All warranties are from date of purchase. If a cash refund is paid on an affected part, it will be prorated from the date of purchase. Note that due to the organic nature of wood, knots, small cracks and minor movement are not considered defects. CONDITIONS The warranty is effective only when: 1. The unit has been erected in accordance with the assembly instructions. 2. The unit has been properly shingled and painted or stained and reasonably and regularly maintained thereafter. 3. The failure occurs when the unit is owned by the original purchaser. 4. We have received the warranty registration card within thirty (30) days of purchase and notification of the failure in writing within the warranty period specified above. 5. We have had reasonable opportunity during the sixty (60) days following receipt of notification to inspect and verify the failure prior to commencement of any repair work. REQUIREMENTS To validate your warranty, it is necessary to properly maintain your building; shingle the roof and paint or solid-colored stain the siding using 100% acrylic latex exterior product with a minimum of two (2) coats within thirty (30) days of assembly; caulk above all doors and all horizontal and vertical trim boards; paint and seal all exposed edges, sides and faces of siding to include all exterior walls and all sides and all edges of doors. Kenex must receive the completed warranty form and a clear picture of the shed via . Other Requirements Keep vegetation trimmed away from building. Water from sprinklers must be kept off unit. In no event will we be responsible for any indirect, incidental, consequential or special damages nor for failure(s) that are caused by events, acts or omissions beyond our control including, but not limited to, misuse or improper assembly, improper maintenance (which eventually leads to rot or decay) and acts of God. We will not be held responsible for any labor costs incurred to construct your unit. CLAIM PROCEDURE To make a claim under this warranty, call (800) Please have ready the information below when you call or include the information when writing: 1. The model and size of the product. 2. A list of the part(s) for which the claim is made. 3. Proof of purchase of the item, as shown on the original invoice. IMPORTANT: This is your warranty certificate. Please complete and mail your warranty card to properly validate your warranty.

37 Please detach and return the card (or fax) to the address below (with copy of dated retail receipt) to validate your warranty. Warranty Registration Card Name: Address: City: Province/State: Model: Date Purchased: Retail Outlet: Store Location: We would appreciate a moment of your time to answer the following questions: Did you find the instructions clear? Yes No If not please explain Did you encounter any difficulties with assembly? Yes No If so please explain Kenex Manufacturing Ltd 27 Regan Rd, Brampton, ON L7A 1B2 Tel (Locally ) Fax info@egsheds.com