8 ft -5-Sided Shed Assembly Instructions

Transcription

1 8 ft -5-Sided Shed Assembly Instructions Item #: Required Tools: Screwgun or Variable Speed Drill Screwdriver Bit (Robertson # 2) Hammer Handsaw Tape Measure Step Ladder Level Shingles Required: 5 Bundles of asphalt shingles or 6 Bundles of cedar shingles Note: Assistance may be required to position and secure some elements. Make sure that the ground is level to start. Parts List on Next Page The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your shed. Extensive diagrams and complete explanation are offered to make it simple (and fun) for those who have little experience with a project of this nature. Should you have any questions (or suggestions), please don t hesitate to call our toll-free customer service or in the GTA. Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the contents of this package against the part list prior to assembly. Any material defects or shortages must be reported before you begin assembly, otherwise part replacement charges will apply to all requests. 96" 96" 48 48" 68"

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3 A) General Instructions and Helpful Hints Please read the instructions BEFORE beginning assembly Assembly Instruction Organization The instructions are organized into eleven sections. It is strongly recommended that you assemble your cabana in the order presented. Our experience has shown that assemblers meet with the most success when all the kit parts are identified and sorted according to the section prior to assembly. Please refer to the parts checklist on page A. Marking the Plates The framing dimensions for stud placement given in these instructions are "on center" measurements. The distances shown are measured from the end of the plate to the middle of the stud. Studs are 1 1/2" wide when stood on edge, so the edges of the stud are 3/4" on each side of center. When placing studs it is often convenient to mark the stud center first, and then make a mark 3/4" away on one or both sides of the center mark. Indicate the center mark with an "X" so as not to confuse it with an edge mark. 24" 48" 3/4" When marking plates for the walls, both the top and bottom plates can be marked at the same time by laying them side by side. Use a square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other. Screwing and Nailing When screwing or nailing be careful not to set the fastener too close to the edge, or the end, of a piece of wood. Corners and casings should have 3" between a fastener and the end of the piece to prevent splitting. When nailing the cedar channel siding smooth side out to the 2x4 framing, place the nails so that they penetrate the thicker part of the board, set in at least 3/4" from the overlap and underlap. For Canexel models use the nailing strip. Squaring a Frame To square a frame, measure the diagonals (from corner to corner each way) checking that the two measurements are the same. If they are not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that the two measurements become the same. Throughout the instructions reference is made to various lumber dimensions. Please remember that planing at the sawmill has reduced to size of dimensioned lumber such as 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, 1x6 etc. These materials are 1/4" to 1/2" thinner and narrower that stated (ie 2x3 is actually 1 1/2" x 2 1/2", 1x6 is 3/4" x 5 1/2"). In cases where a depth or width is given for material that we have machined (trim, door casing, etc.), the measurements are usually as stated. Keep in mind that wood is a natural material and is prone to swelling and shrinkage, therefore the size of some parts many vary slightly from the dimensions given. This may result in some minor joint variations, but should not be cause for concern. Page 1 rev. 04/06/16 3/4" groove 3/4" Measurement A should equal Measurement B underlap Recommended Finish Treat the exposed parts of your cabana with a minimum of two coats of a transparent natural or coloured opaque finish. A quality brand name finish is available at the retailer where you purchased your cabana. This treatment is required in order to validate your manufacturers warranty. A Word about Pool Cabanas If you intend to use your cabana as a facility to house gas fired pool heating equipment, be sure to consult with your local gas service person on the placement of your equipment before erecting your cabana. This will ensure that all clearances are adhered to, and that you are able to position the roof trusses so that they don't interfere with the stack on your gas heater. A Note on Lumber Dimensions and Wood Properties A B overlap

4 Cedar Shingle Application 1) Use two 1" galvanized nails per shingle, regardless of the shingle's width. Nails should be placed 3/4" from the edge of the shingle and 1 1/2" from the butt line of the following course. Nails should be driven flush but not so that the nail head crushes the wood. 2) The exposure, or distance between the courses should be 5 1/2". 3) The shingles should be spaced a minimum of 1/4" to a maximum of 3/8" apart. The joints should be at least 1 1/2" away from the any joint in the previous row. Joints in every second row should not be in direct alignment. 4) A starter course should be laid down overhanging the eave and gable fascia by 3/4". The first course is laid down on top of the starter course. Maintain joint separation of at least 1 1/2" between the first and starter course. When nailing a gazebo roof, angle the nails slightly when applying the starter course to prevent nail penetration through the roof panel. 5) If you are applying cedar shingles to a cabana gable roof it is recommended that the shingles for the first and starter courses are soaked in water overnight. This will allow the shingles conform to the bend in the roof. 6) Continue the courses up the roof until the weather exposure at the peak of the roof is less than 5 1/2". Trim the shingles at the ridge and hip line. Hips and Ridges 1) Intersecting roof surfaces at the ridge or hips should be capped with site-made or pre-assembled ridge cap. The ridge caps should have alternating overlaps and be the same length as the shingles. The material used for site-made ridge caps should be of uniform width - approximately 4" to 5", beveled as shown in the diagram, and held together with two 1 3/4" to 2" nails. 2) The ridge caps require 1 3/4" to 2" nails. Again, nails should be placed 3/4" from the edge of the shingle and 1 1/2" from the butt line of the following course. Nails should be driven flush but not so that the nail head crushes the wood. 3) The exposure of the ridge cap should be 5 1/2". 4) Ice and water shield (supplied with gazebos and hip roof cabanas) should be applied over the hip joints prior to installing the ridge caps. The shield must be applied on a dry roof. Ensure that it follows the shingle contour. (see diagram opposite) If applied in cold conditions, it should be held in place with nails or staples. 5) Lay down a starter course underneath the first course. Alternate the overlap between the first and starter courses. 6) Shingle the ridge by beginning with a first and starter course at each end. Shingles should project 1" to 1 1/2" over the gable rake. End shingles may be cut back at an angle to prevent drips. Work towards the middle from each end. As the courses converge, trim the ends of the shingles so that they don't overlap the weather exposure of the course opposite. When the remaining exposure is less than 16", finish the ridge by applying a 5 1/2" section of ridge cap to cover the joint. The ridge cap section should be held in place by 4 exposed nails. Asphalt Shingles 1 ) Please refer to the instructions supplied by the shingle manufacturer. Most manufacturers print complete instructions on the back of the shingle packaging. rev. 07/25/96 3/4" 5 1/2" shingles spaced 1/4" to 3/8" apart first course starter course bevel edge of shingles first course starter course ice and water shield ridge cap section to cover joint double course overhanging gable rake by 1" to 1 1/2" nails 3/4" from edge of shingle 1 1/2" alternate overlap ensure shield follows shingle contour butt line shingles to overhang eave by 3/4" maintain joint separation of at least 1 1/2" Ice and Water Shield Detail page 2

5 1) Floor Assembly Instructions Floor Framing 96" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 46 1/2" 60 3/4" 76 3/4" 93" 92 3/4" 68" 48" 1) Lay out the plates and the joists 16" on center as shown above. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. flush here flush here 2-3" nails rev. 06/16/99 page 3

6 1) The site you choose for your shed should be well drained and free from puddling. 2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to leveling and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assembly of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grass under the cabana. Final Assembly and Positioning If it is not possible to level the site, or you wish to raise your shed in areas of poor drainage, poured concrete footings may be used. 1) Set down patio stones or pour footings positioned as shown in the diagram below. We recommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive shimming. 2) Attach the 2 x 6 P.T. runners on their face to the bottom of the floor, setting them in 6" from the edges. Use two - 3" galvanized nails per joist. 3) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. Add cedar shims or blocks between the patio stones and the 2 x 6 runners to level the frame. 96" 2 x 6 runners 93" 1'x 2' patio stones rev. 06/16/99 page 4

7 Floor Sheathing 1) Fasten the 2 full sheets of 48" x 96" plywood, starting from the left side as shown below. The edges of the plywood will assist you in keeping the floor square. Begin by nailing the 4 corners of the 1st sheet, using 1 3/4" nails. Ensure the edge of the plywood stays flush with the outside edges of the outer joists and plate, and that it only comes to the middle of the inside joist (allowing room for the 2nd sheet). Position the second sheet next to the first. Mark the sheet along the outer edge of the plate and cut. Nail both sheets every 8" along all plates and joists. rev. 06/16/99 page 5

8 2) Front Wall Assembly - see appendix for Double Doors 1) Lay the two - 68" plates (cut 22 1/2 on each end), two studs and two bevel studs as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align bevel studs with ends of the plates as shown in the Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing shown below. 68" 36 1/2" bevel stud door opening bevel stud 15" 53" bevel stud bevel stud Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing Not to Scale rev. 06/16/99 page 6

9 67 7/8" Bevel Stud Bevel Stud 51" 7 3/4" 60 1/4"

10 3) If you are installing a standard door, nail the door header (2 x 3 x 36 1/2") into place as shown in the framing detail at the bottom of the page. Please see the appendix for a French door. step 3 - complete only if installing a standard door 3" nails 36 1/2" rev. 06/16/99 page

11 4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page courses 15 3/4" 15 3/4" 15 3/4" not to scale starter course flush here Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" 5) Position the two 15 3/4" starter pieces (see detail opposite) so that they overhang the bottom plate by 3/4" and are flush with the door opening. Fasten them to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Apply the next eleven courses measuring the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Trim the last course of siding flush with the top of the top plate. starter course of siding bottom plate 3/4" tongue has been trimmed off lower lip rev. 06/16/12 page

12 3) Left Back Wall Assembly 1) Lay out the two - 89" left back wall plates and seven studs on 16" centers as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. 89" 16" 32" 48" 64" 80" rev. 06/16/12 page 9

13 96" Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 3 1/2" 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 4) There are 7-96" pieces of 1 x 8 canexel siding required for this wall. Position the first piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4" and the end studs by 3 1/2". Fasten the first piece to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on the spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Trim the last board to fit flush with the height of the bottom of the roof rafters. rev. 06/16/12 page 10

14 4) Right Back Wall Assembly 1) Lay out the two - 96" right back wall plates and seven studs on 16" centers as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. 96" 16" 32" 48" 64" 80" rev. 06/16/99 page 11

15 96" Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 4) There are 7-96" pieces of 1 x 8 canexel siding required for this wall. Position the first piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4". Fasten the first piece to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on the spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Trim the last board to fit flush with the top of the top plate. rev. 06/16/16 page 12

16 8 ft -5-Sided Shed Left Wall Appendix LEFT WALL SECTION 1. Layout the frame as shown in the diagram. 2. Fasten the studs to the plates using two 3 nails for both top and bottom. Make sure that the opening for the window is equal at the top and bottom. 3. Fasten the window spacers to the studs using the 3 nails. 4. Square the frame as per the earlier instructions. 5. Fasten the first bottom pieces - make sure that the ends are flush with both the bevel and side studs and the bottom overhangs the plate by 3/4. Note that the pieces cut for the window will sit flush with the window studs. 6. Fasten the remaining pieces all the way to the top. Trim the top piece so that it is flush with the top of the plate.

17 Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 4) Position the first 48" piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4" and is flush with the frame at the ends. Fasten to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Apply the next courses, measuring the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Trim the last course to fit flush with the top of the top plate. rev. 06/16/99 page 14

18 6) Right Side Wall Assembly 1) Lay the two /2" right side wall plates (cut 22 1/2 on one end), three studs and one bevel stud on 16" centers as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align bevel stud with end of the plates as shown in the Right SideWall Framing Perspective Drawing shown below. 44 1/2" 2 1/2" bevel stud window opening 22 1/2" Right SideWall Framing Perspective Drawing 9 1/2" 33 1/2" 3) Position the window spacers (2 x 4 x 22 1/2") as shown in the detail opposite. Using 3" nails, nail each spacer twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush. 3" nails 2 1/2" 34 1/2" 3" nails rev. 06/17/16 Window Spacer Positioning Detail page 15

19 48" Siding overhangs bottom plate 3/4" Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 3 1/2" 4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 5) Position the first 48" piece so that it overhangs the bottom plate by 3/4" and is flush with the framing on the side where the plate is cut at 22 1/2. The siding should overhang the the other side of the frame by about 3 1/2". Fasten to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. Apply the next four courses, working up to the bottom of the window. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Once you reach the bottom of the window, begin applying the smaller pieces on the left and right of the window with 12 3/4" siding. Next apply one more course of the 48" siding. Trim the last course of siding flush with the top of the top plate. The top of the window frame may need to be cut out of the 2nd last course. rev. 06/17/16 page 16

20 7) Erecting the Walls Re-check the floor before erecting the walls. It is very important that the floor is flat and level to insure proper installation of the roof. Erection Plan - Top View right back wall right side wall left back wall front wall left side wall 1) Starting with the right back wall, lift the wall into position as shown below. Center the wall on the floor so that the overhang, if any, is equal on both sides of the floor. Nail scrap packaging material diagonally across gable wall and floor to help support the wall. 2) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, fasten wall by nailing the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. nail through bottom plate every 16" with 3" nails overhang, if any should be equal on both sides of the floor scrap packaging material floor rev. 06/03/99 Be sure to adequately support the gable wall before proceeding page 17

21 3) Slide the left back wall into place ensuring that the corner is tight with the other wall. 4) Adjust the walls so that the top plates are flush with each other (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls). With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner together from the outside by nailing seven - 1 3/4" nails through the panel overhang into the gable corner stud. Reinforce the corner by using three - 3" nails to nail the corner studs together from the inside. flush here wall top plate wall top plate 5) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. 6) Next, position each of the two side walls as shown below. Ensure that the inside corners are tight with the back walls. 7) Fasten the corners together as detailed in step 4. Do not nail the side wall plates to the floor yet. 8) Slide the front wall into place between the two side walls. 9) Fasten both front wall corners Adjust the wall sections so that the top plates are flush with each other. (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls. With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner together by using 3" nails to fasten the inside corner in three places, top, middle and bottom. Leave the front wall plate loose for now. 10) For each of the side walls, with one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. Leave the front wall plate loose for now. rev. 05/06/99 page 18

22 8) Five Sided Roof Framing 1) Use 3" nails for all roof framing. Install the top plates on the top of the wall sections. The top plates have the same dimensions and positioning as the framing plates. 2) Attach the center hub to two opposing common rafters (A). Stand the assembly upright on the on the walls and position as shown below. common rafter (A) wall plate wall section top plates cedar channel siding bird's mouth tight against the top plate 3) Fasten the other two common rafters (A). 4) Install the three hip rafters (B) as shown. Ensure that the rafters are centered on the corners. 5) Install the front rafter (C) as shown below. B A B 4" center hub A A front wall C front wall corner detail rafter (C) B rev. 06/22/99 A page 19

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24 6) Install the jack rafters as shown below. Position each rafter so that it makes a 90 angle with the top plate while keeping the plate tight against the inside corner of the bird's mouth and the top of the rafter flush with the hip rafter. F E E F F E E F D E F D F E rev. 07/04/99 page 20

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29 Assembly Instructions 4. 5 Sided Roof Trim Assembly The following instructions provide methods to install all of our Cabana Hip Roof trim. Trim may vary in sizes and material, but the construction procedure remains the same. The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your 5-Sided Cabana. Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature.

30 Soffits A 10' roof is shown in following diagrams. The installation procedure is the same for the 8' roof. 1) Soffits are installed to the underside of the rafters using two - 1 3/4" nails per rafter. 2) The back wall soffit ends are joined at the center of the hip rafters. Position the soffit on the rafters, mark along the center line of the rafters and cut. The angle of the joints at these rafters is 45 degrees. 3) The side and front wall soffits are joined where the outside front and side wall soffit lines meet, not at the common rafters. Please see the diagram below. Begin by marking and cutting the side wall soffit where it joins the back wall soffit. Then position both the side and front wall soffits and mark the inside and outside ends of the joint and cut. Soffit Plan soffit and fascia joints 7/16" waferboard fascia cedar channel siding wall section soffit wall plate soffit and fascia joints soffit and fascia joints rev. 06/22/99

31 Fascia 1) The fascia is installed on the ends of the rafters tight against the soffit using one - 1 3/4" nail per rafter and and one nail into the soffit between the rafters. The fascia should be marked and cut in the same way as the soffit. 2) The back and side wall fascia are joined at the center of the hip rafters. The angle of the joints at these rafters is 45 degrees. Fascia Joint Detail 3) The front and side wall fascia are joined at the soffit joints. 45 degree bevel at end of fascia

32 Assembly Instructions 6. Nail side corners flush with front walls. The front corner should cover the edge of side corner. Corners should be pushed right up to soffits and should come down to bottom of skirts. Flush With Soffits Corner Trim (2) Flush with Bottom Of Skirts Side Corner Front Corner 7. The front wall to side wall corner trim is a little bit different. You will notice that these trim pieces are ripped on an angle up the side. The are joined together like the opposite drawing. Side Wall Front Wall Your trim is complete, your nearing completion!

33 1 Double Door Hanging Instructions The following instructions provide methods to install all of our garden structure doors. Doors may vary in sizes and material, but the installation procedure remains the same. The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your Double Door Kit. Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature. Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

34 2 Installing Double Doors We offer a variety of doors, although the doors may be different, they are installed similarly. You will need door 3 door hinges, 1 small barrel bolt and a lockset, all are provided in your shed kit (brass). We suggest following the detailed instructions that are written on the packaging of the hardware. The following instructions should make installing your door simple. Using your checklist, separate the door and trim parts. 1. Once your structure has been assembled, begin installing your door and trim. The 1 st step is to use a handsaw to remove the threshold (located on the bottom of the door opening) Be sure your walls have already been secured to the floor. Cut Here 2. Identify you side trim(2) top trim and threshold. Nail these 4 pieces together using 2-2 nails per joint. Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

35 3 3. Place your frame in your opening, so that it comes out flush with the siding. On one side, use a level on the trim and nail directly into the stud using 1 ¾ nail approx. every 8 Flush Nail This Side Level 4. Use a level across all sides when nailing your trim into place. The final opening must be square. When nailing into the shimmed side, also be sure that you are nailing through the shims. You want shims behind where your hinges will eventually go. Shim Shim Shim Shim Shim Level 4. Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

36 4 Bring your outside door trim to the edge of the door jambs, it should be back from your inside trim about 1/8. The top of the trim should go slightly past the upper trim, no more than an 1/8. Lastly, center your top door trim over your door. Pull the pin from your hinge sets. Fasten the jamb hinges in the correct position of the door opening direction. Use 1 3 screw in each hinge, use the hinge screws provided for the rest. 5. Take the opposite side of the hinges and use the hinge screws provided to screw them into the sides of the door where they have been mortised. Make sure you mount them correctly to line up with the other half of the hinges. Once the hinges have been screwed, lift the doors into place and insert the pins. This is made easier with the assistance of of another person. 1/8" - 1/4" Place Hinges Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

37 5 6. Provided with the doors is a lockset. Our lockset manufacturer s may vary, so follow the instructions on the packaging for specific installation procedures. On the door used less frequently, install the barrel bolt at the bottom of the door on the inside of the building. You will have to drill holes for the bolts to engage. Drill into the floor. 7. With your doors in the closed position. From the outside, place your side stops all the way up to the top of the frame. Nail into place using 1 ¾ nails, do not place it too tight against the door, this may interfere with the opening. Repeat for the top door stop, it should fit snug. Barrel Bolt Inside Lockset Barrel Bolt Inside Door Stops Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

38 6 8. The final step is to secure your astragal, this will cover the gap between your doors. The placement depends on the opening directions of your doors. It only gets nailed to one side, determine the correct side and secure using 1 ¾ nails approx. every 12 Astragal That s it! Your cabana is complete, do not forget to stain or paint your structure to keep it looking great for years to come. Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

39 INSTALLING ASPHALT SHINGLES (REQUIRED) Using four nails per shingle, nail as shown in drawing. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with,but not cutting into shingle surface. Follow illustrations to apply Shingles to your Building. 1" (2.5 cm) 1/2" (1.3 cm) Sealing Strip 1" (2.5 cm) NAILS After completing shingling your building, remove any overhanging, excess shingles by cutting them off with a utility knife. First row of Shingles are installed backwards to make a seal barrier-flush to bottom of Drip Edge It is okay if last Shingle overlaps it will be cut off later Roof Shingle Line up notch on top of Shingle with edge of Roof to stagger the Shingles Line up notch on side of Shingle with edge of Roof to stagger the Shingles

40 INSTALLING SHINGLES (CONTINUED) To cover the Peak of your building, cut strip Shingles into individual pieces by dividing at cutout as shown. Bend each piece over the Peak and nail 5-7/8 (14.9cm) above the butt edge and 1 (2.5cm) in from each side, exposing each piece 5-1/8 (13cm) to the weather. Cut single Shingle into three pieces Cut any Shingles Overhanging Sides 5-1/8" (13cm) 5-7/8" (14.9cm) NAIL INSPECTION After assembly is finished, check the entire building inside and out for any protruding nails. Pound any protruding nails into the wood or cut them off flush. Roof Panel Trim Nails Not in Studs Nail That Missed Stud REQUIRED MAINTENANCE See requirements in the limited conditional warranty on the last page of this manual. Keep Sprinklers Away From Building Keep Grass Trimmed See Warranty Requirements

41 Limited Conditional Warranty WARRANTY We warrant the following: 1. Every product is warranted from defects in workmanship and manufacturing for two years. 2. All hardware and metal components are warranted for two years. 3. Trim is warranted for 3 years. 4. Waferboard siding and sheathing is warranted for two years. 5. T 1-11, Cedar and Canexel siding are warranted for 5 years. We will repair, replace or pay for the affected part. In no event shall we pay the cost of labor or installation or any other costs related thereto. All warranties are from date of purchase. If a cash refund is paid on an affected part, it will be prorated from the date of purchase. Note that due to the organic nature of wood, knots, small cracks and minor movement are not considered defects. CONDITIONS The warranty is effective only when: 1. The unit has been erected in accordance with the assembly instructions. 2. The unit has been properly shingled and painted or stained and reasonably and regularly maintained thereafter. 3. The failure occurs when the unit is owned by the original purchaser. 4. We have received the warranty registration card within thirty (30) days of purchase and notification of the failure in writing within the warranty period specified above. 5. We have had reasonable opportunity during the sixty (60) days following receipt of notification to inspect and verify the failure prior to commencement of any repair work. REQUIREMENTS To validate your warranty, it is necessary to properly maintain your building; shingle the roof and paint or solid-colored stain the siding using 100% acrylic latex exterior product with a minimum of two (2) coats within thirty (30) days of assembly; caulk above all doors and all horizontal and vertical trim boards; paint and seal all exposed edges, sides and faces of siding to include all exterior walls and all sides and all edges of doors. Other Requirements Keep vegetation trimmed away from building. Water from sprinklers must be kept off unit. In no event will we be responsible for any indirect, incidental, consequential or special damages nor for failure(s) that are caused by events, acts or omissions beyond our control including, but not limited to, misuse or improper assembly, improper maintenance (which eventually leads to rot or decay) and acts of God. We will not be held responsible for any labor costs incurred to construct your unit. CLAIM PROCEDURE To make a claim under this warranty, call (800) Please have ready the information below when you call or include the information when writing: 1. The model and size of the product. 2. A list of the part(s) for which the claim is made. 3. Proof of purchase of the item, as shown on the original invoice. IMPORTANT: This is your warranty certificate. Please complete and mail your warranty card to properly validate your warranty.

42 Please detach and return the card (or fax) to the address below (with copy of dated retail receipt) to validate your warranty. Warranty Registration Card Name: Address: City: Province/State: Model: Date Purchased: Retail Outlet: Store Location: We would appreciate a moment of your time to answer the following questions: Did you find the instructions clear? Yes No If not please explain Did you encounter any difficulties with assembly? Yes No If so please explain Kenex Manufacturing Ltd 27 Regan Rd, Brampton, ON L7A 1B2 Tel (Locally ) Fax info@gardendec.com