8 ft -5-Sided Shed Assembly Instructions

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1 READY TO ASSEMBLE KITS Kenex Manufacturing Ltd 27 Regan Road Brampton,ON L7A 1B2 8 ft -5-Sided Shed Assembly Instructions Item #: Required Tools: Screwgun or Variable Speed Drill Screwdriver Bit (Robertson # 2) Hammer Handsaw Tape Measure Step Ladder Level Shingles Required: 4 Bundles of asphalt shingles or 5 Bundles of cedar shingles Note: Assistance may be required to position and secure some elements. Make sure that the ground is level to start. Parts List on Next Page The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your shed. Extensive diagrams and complete explanation are offered to make it simple (and fun) for those who have little experience with a project of this nature. Should you have any questions (or suggestions), please don t hesitate to call our toll-free customer service or in the GTA. Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the contents of this package against the part list prior to assembly. Any material defects or shortages must be reported before you begin assembly, otherwise part replacement charges will apply to all requests. 96" 96" 48" 48" 68"

2 Item 107 Size 8 ft Date: Qty Part CHECK Qty Part CHECK STRAPS 1 BACK WALL PANEL 1 ROOF PANEL - 48 X 80 STRAPS 4 WALL PLATES - 72" 1 ROOF PANEL - 48" X 80" 2 WALL PLATES - 19" 1 WINDOW PANEL 4 BEVEL STUDS - 72" 1 WINDOW 2 FRONT WALL PLATES /8" 4 BACK FASCIA 2 WALL PLATES - 48" 2 SIDE FASCIA 2 WALL PLATES /2" 2 FRONT FASCIA 20 STUDS - 72" 6 BACK CORNERS 1 BACK WALL PANEL 4 FRONT CORNERS STRAPS 2 ROOF PANELS - 72" 1 BACK WALL PANEL 2 ROOF PANELS - 60" 3 HIP RAFTERS /4" 2 ROOF PANELS - 36" X 11 1/2" 4 COMMON RAFTERS /4" 1 FRENCH DOOR 6 JACK RAFTERS - 41" 2 DOOR CASING 6 JACK RAFTERS /4" 2 DOOR JAMB 1 BACK WALL PANEL 2 DOOR STOPS STRAPS 1 TOP DOOR STOP 1 ROOF PANEL - 48 X 80 1 TOP DOOR CASING 1 WINDOW PANEL 1 TOP DOOR JAMB 1 WINDOW 1 THRESHOLD 4 WINDOW SPACERS /2" 1 THRESHOLD SUPPORT 1 CENTRE RAFTER /4" 1 HARDWARE BAG 2 FRONT JACK RAFTERS /8" 1 HUB 2 TOP WALL PLATES - 48" 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2 TOP WALL PLATES /2" 2 FRONT WALL PANELS 1 TOP WALL PLATE /8" 1 TOP WALL LEFT /2" 1 TOP WALL RIGHT - 47" 4 BACK SOFFITS - 60" 2 SIDE SOFFITS - 72" 2 FRONT SOFFITS /2"

3 A) General Instructions and Helpful Hints Please read the instructions BEFORE beginning assembly Assembly Instruction Organization The instructions are organized into eleven sections. It is strongly recommended that you assemble your cabana in the order presented. Our experience has shown that assemblers meet with the most success when all the kit parts are identified and sorted according to the section prior to assembly. Please refer to the parts checklist on page A. Marking the Plates The framing dimensions for stud placement given in these instructions are "on center" measurements. The distances shown are measured from the end of the plate to the middle of the stud. Studs are 1 1/2" wide when stood on edge, so the edges of the stud are 3/4" on each side of center. When placing studs it is often convenient to mark the stud center first, and then make a mark 3/4" away on one or both sides of the center mark. Indicate the center mark with an "X" so as not to confuse it with an edge mark. 24" 48" 3/4" When marking plates for the walls, both the top and bottom plates can be marked at the same time by laying them side by side. Use a square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other. Squaring a Frame To square a frame, measure the diagonals (from corner to corner each way) checking that the two measurements are the same. If they are not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that the two measurements become the same. Throughout the instructions reference is made to various lumber dimensions. Please remember that planing at the sawmill has reduced to size of dimensioned lumber such as 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, 1x6 etc. These materials are 1/4" to 1/2" thinner and narrower that stated (ie 2x3 is actually 1 1/2" x 2 1/2", 1x6 is 3/4" x 5 1/2"). In cases where a depth or width is given for material that we have machined (trim, door casing, etc.), the measurements are usually as stated. Keep in mind that wood is a natural material and is prone to swelling and shrinkage, therefore the size of some parts many vary slightly from the dimensions given. This may result in some minor joint variations, but should not be cause for concern. Page 1 rev. 04/06/99 Measurement A should equal Measurement B Recommended Finish Treat the exposed parts of your cabana with a minimum of two coats of a transparent natural or coloured opaque finish. A quality brand name finish is available at the retailer where you purchased your cabana. This treatment is required in order to validate your manufacturers warranty. A Word about Pool Cabanas If you intend to use your cabana as a facility to house gas fired pool heating equipment, be sure to consult with your local gas service person on the placement of your equipment before erecting your cabana. This will ensure that all clearances are adhered to, and that you are able to position the roof trusses so that they don't interfere with the stack on your gas heater. A Note on Lumber Dimensions and Wood Properties A B

4 Cedar Shingle Application 1) Use two 1" galvanized nails per shingle, regardless of the shingle's width. Nails should be placed 3/4" from the edge of the shingle and 1 1/2" from the butt line of the following course. Nails should be driven flush but not so that the nail head crushes the wood. 2) The exposure, or distance between the courses should be 5 1/2". 3) The shingles should be spaced a minimum of 1/4" to a maximum of 3/8" apart. The joints should be at least 1 1/2" away from the any joint in the previous row. Joints in every second row should not be in direct alignment. 4) A starter course should be laid down overhanging the eave and gable fascia by 3/4". The first course is laid down on top of the starter course. Maintain joint separation of at least 1 1/2" between the first and starter course. When nailing a gazebo roof, angle the nails slightly when applying the starter course to prevent nail penetration through the roof panel. 5) If you are applying cedar shingles to a cabana gable roof it is recommended that the shingles for the first and starter courses are soaked in water overnight. This will allow the shingles conform to the bend in the roof. 6) Continue the courses up the roof until the weather exposure at the peak of the roof is less than 5 1/2". Trim the shingles at the ridge and hip line. Hips and Ridges 1) Intersecting roof surfaces at the ridge or hips should be capped with site-made or pre-assembled ridge cap. The ridge caps should have alternating overlaps and be the same length as the shingles. The material used for site-made ridge caps should be of uniform width - approximately 4" to 5", beveled as shown in the diagram, and held together with two 1 3/4" to 2" nails. 2) The ridge caps require 1 3/4" to 2" nails. Again, nails should be placed 3/4" from the edge of the shingle and 1 1/2" from the butt line of the following course. Nails should be driven flush but not so that the nail head crushes the wood. 3) The exposure of the ridge cap should be 5 1/2". 4) Ice and water shield (supplied with gazebos and hip roof cabanas) should be applied over the hip joints prior to installing the ridge caps. The shield must be applied on a dry roof. Ensure that it follows the shingle contour. (see diagram opposite) If applied in cold conditions, it should be held in place with nails or staples. 5) Lay down a starter course underneath the first course. Alternate the overlap between the first and starter courses. 6) Shingle the ridge by beginning with a first and starter course at each end. Shingles should project 1" to 1 1/2" over the gable rake. End shingles may be cut back at an angle to prevent drips. Work towards the middle from each end. As the courses converge, trim the ends of the shingles so that they don't overlap the weather exposure of the course opposite. When the remaining exposure is less than 16", finish the ridge by applying a 5 1/2" section of ridge cap to cover the joint. The ridge cap section should be held in place by 4 exposed nails. Asphalt Shingles 1 ) Please refer to the instructions supplied by the shingle manufacturer. Most manufacturers print complete instructions on the back of the shingle packaging. rev. 07/25/96 3/4" 5 1/2" shingles spaced 1/4" to 3/8" apart first course starter course bevel edge of shingles first course starter course ice and water shield ridge cap section to cover joint double course overhanging gable rake by 1" to 1 1/2" nails 3/4" from edge of shingle 1 1/2" alternate overlap ensure shield follows shingle contour butt line shingles to overhang eave by 3/4" maintain joint separation of at least 1 1/2" Ice and Water Shield Detail page 2

5 1) Floor Assembly Instructions (sold separatelly) Floor Framing 96" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 76 3/4" 60 3/4" 46 1/2" 93" 92 3/4" 68" 48" 1) Lay out the plates and the joists 16" on center as shown above. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. flush here flush here 2-3" nails rev. 06/16/99 page 3

6 1) The site you choose for your Garden Decor Shed should be well drained and free from puddling. 2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to leveling and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assembly of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grass under the cabana. Final Assembly and Positioning If it is not possible to level the site, or you wish to raise your shed in areas of poor drainage, poured concrete footings may be used. 1) Set down patio stones or pour footings positioned as shown in the diagram below. We recommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive shimming. 2) Attach the 2 x 6 P.T. runners on their face to the bottom of the floor, setting them in 6" from the edges. Use two - 3" galvanized nails per joist. 3) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. Add cedar shims or blocks between the patio stones and the 2 x 6 runners to level the frame. 96" 2 x 6 runners 93" 1'x 2' patio stones rev. 06/16/99 page 4

7 Floor Sheathing 1) Fasten the 2 full sheets of 48" x 96" plywood, starting from the left side as shown below. The edges of the plywood will assist you in keeping the floor square. Begin by nailing the 4 corners of the 1st sheet, using 1 3/4" nails. Ensure the edge of the plywood stays flush with the outside edges of the outer joists and plate, and that it only comes to the middle of the inside joist (allowing room for the 2nd sheet). Position the second sheet next to the first. Mark the sheet along the outer edge of the plate and cut. Nail both sheets every 8" along all plates and joists. rev. 06/16/99 page 5

8 2) Front Wall Assembly 1) Lay the two - 68" plates (cut 22 1/2 on each end), two studs and two bevel studs as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align bevel studs with ends of the plates as shown in the Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing shown below. 68" 36 " bevel stud door opening bevel stud 15" 53" bevel stud bevel stud Front Wall Framing Perspective Drawing Not to Scale rev. 06/16/99 page 6

9 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page /8" 15 3/8" not to scale flush here Siding overhangs bottom plate approx 1" 4) Position the two 15 3/8" starter pieces (see detail opposite) so that they overhang the bottom plate by 1" and are flush with the door opening. Fasten them to the frame using 1 3/4" nails. rev. 06/16/99 page 10

10 3) Left Back Wall Assembly 1) Lay out the two 72 and 19 left back wall plates and 6 studs on 24 centres as shown below, with the outside 19 spacing. You will have 2 wall sections (one 72, the other 19 ). 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two 3 nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Fasten the two sections together using 3 8 intervals.

11 96" Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 2 1/2" Siding overhangs bottom plate approx.1" 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 4) LLay the two 48" panels as shown. The panels must be flush with the top plate, and overhang of tthe end stud on both sides by 2 1/2". Ensure that the bottom of the panels also overhang frthe bottom plate by approx. 1". Fasten as before. rev. 06/16/99 page 12

12 4) Right Back Wall Assembly 1) Lay out the two 72 and 24 right back wall plates and 6 studs on 24 centres as shown below. You will have 2 wall sections (a 72 section and a 24 section). 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two 3 nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Fasten the two sections together using 3 8 intervals.

13 96" Siding overhangs bottom plate approx 1" 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 4) Lay the two 48" panels as shown. The panels will be flush with the top and the sides of the frame. Make sure that the siding overhangs the bottom plate by approx. 1". Fasten as before. rev. 06/16/99 page 14

14 5) Side Wall Assembly (please refer to appendix) 1) Lay the two - 48" left side wall plates (cut 22 1/2 on one end), three studs and one bevel stud as shown below. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. bevel stud flush here flush here 2-3" nails rev. 06/16/99 page 15

15 Siding overhangs bottom plate 1" 3) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 4) Position the 48" window panel as shown. The panels will be flush with the top and sides of the frame. Fasten as before. rev. 06/16/99 page 16

16 APPENDIX W9-5 SIDELITE WINDOW IN LEFT AND RIGHT 5-SIDED WALLS PARTS CHECKLIST - Please compare with the parts included in your shed kit. Note that the siding pieces are for the Cedar and Canexel Models only - Fir Panels have window openings. All Sizes: 2- Window Spacers (17 ½") 2- Sidelite Windows Side wall for 8' 5-Sided Shed Side wall for 11' 5-Sided Shed 1- Siding - 1x8x48"(tongue cut) 1- Siding - 1x8x66"(tongue cut) 3- Siding - 1x8x48" 3- Siding - 1x8x66" 16- Siding - 1x8x15" 16- Siding - 1x8x24" Side wall for 9' 5-Sided Shed Side wall for 12' 5-Sided Shed 1- Siding - 1x8x54"(tongue cut) 1- Siding - 1x8x72"(tongue cut) 3- Siding - 1x8x54" 3- Siding - 1x8x72" 16- Siding - 1x8x18" 16- Siding - 1x8x27" Side wall for 10' 5-Sided Shed 1- Siding - 1x8x60"(tongue cut) 3- Siding - 1x8x60" 16- Siding - 1x8x21" Should you have any questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to call us or check our website@ Made by Kenex Manufacturing Ltd.

17 Right Side Wall Assembly with W9 Sidelite Window 1) Lay the two right side wall plates (cut 22 1/2 on one end) with the number of studs indicated by the table below. Place one bevel stud at the end as shown. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two-3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align the bevel stud with the end of the plates as shown in the Framing Perspective Drawing below. 3) Position the windows spacers (2x3x17 ½") as shown in the drawing below. Using 3" nails, nail each spacer twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush. Square the wall in the general instructions on page 2. Bevel Stud Window Opening 17 1/4" Top Plate 5 " 57 1/2" Bevel Stud 6 1/2" A B C D E 5-SIDED WINDOW WALL POSITIONING SIZE 8' 9' 10' 11' 12' A N/A N/A N/A 10 " 11 1/2" B 12" 15" 18" 20" 23" C 31" 34" 37" 39" 42" D N/A N/A N/A 51" 55" E 45 1/2" 51 1/2" 57 1/2" 62 1/2" 68 1/2"

18 Left Side Wall Assembly with W9 Sidelite Window 1) Lay the two left side wall plates (cut 22 1/2 on one end) with the number of studs indicated by the table below. Place one bevel stud at the end as shown. 2) Attach each stud to the plates using two-3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud stays flush with the plate. Align the bevel stud with the end of the plates as shown in the Framing Perspective Drawing below. 3) Position the windows spacers (2x3x17 ½") as shown in the drawing below. Using 3" nails, nail each spacer twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush. Square the wall as in the general instructions on page 2. Window Opening 17 1/4" Top Plate 5 " Bevel Stud Bevel Stud 57 1/2" 6 1/2" A B C D E SIZE A N/A N/A B 14 1/2 17 1/2 20 1/2 23 1/2 26 1/2 C 33 1/2 36 1/2 39 1/2 42 1/2 45 1/2 D N/A N/A E

19 48" Siding overhangs bottom plate approx 1" Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 2 1/2" 4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2. 5) Position the 48" window panel on the frame as shown. The panel will overhang both sides of the frame by 2 1/2" on either side. The panel will be flush with the top of the frame. Fasten as before. rev. 06/17/99

20 7) Erecting the Walls Re-check the floor before erecting the walls. It is very important that the floor is flat and level to insure proper installation of the roof. Erection Plan - Top View right back wall right side wall left back wall front wall left side wall 1) Starting with the right back wall, lift the wall into position as shown below. Center the wall on the floor so that the overhang, if any, is equal on both sides of the floor. Nail scrap packaging material diagonally across gable wall and floor to help support the wall. 2) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, fasten wall by nailing the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. nail through bottom plate every 16" with 3" nails overhang, if any should be equal on both sides of the floor scrap packaging material floor rev. 06/03/99 Be sure to adequately support the gable wall before proceeding

21 3) Slide the left back wall into place ensuring that the corner is tight with the other wall. 4) Adjust the walls so that the top plates are flush with each other (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls). With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner together from the outside by nailing seven - 1 3/4" nails through the panel overhang into the gable corner stud. Reinforce the corner by using three - 3" nails to nail the corner studs together from the inside. flush here wall top plate wall top plate 5) With one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. 6) Next, position each of the two side walls as shown below. Ensure that the inside corners are tight with the back walls. 7) Fasten the corners together as detailed in step 4. Do not nail the side wall plates to the floor yet. 8) Slide the front wall into place between the two side walls. 9) Fasten both front wall corners Adjust the wall sections so that the top plates are flush with each other. (this may require you to temporarily shim one of the walls. With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the corner together by using 3" nails to fasten the inside corner in three places, top, middle and bottom. Leave the front wall plate loose for now. 10) For each of the side walls, with one person outside pushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edge of the floor, nail the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals. Leave the front wall plate loose for now. rev. 05/06/99

22 8) 5-Sided Roof The following instructions provide methods to install all of our Cabana 5 sided Roofs. Roofs may vary in sizes and material, but the construction procedure remains the same. The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your 5-Sided Cabana. Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature. Kenex Manufacturing Ltd

23 Assembly Instructions Begin by organizing your roof parts in to categories, separate hip (there will always be 3), common and jack rafters in to separate piles. You ll also have one 8 sided hub, and your top plates. A helpful hint when building smaller 5 sided roofs, is to start assembly of your roof on the floor, then set it aside when your walls are erected and your roof can be placed on top. Doing it this way can make for a heavy lift, but if you manage to bribe the neighbours into helping, its an easier way to assemble it. *Note* These instructions can be used for any sized unit, although the material and rafter count may differ. E.g.: Larger units consist of more jack rafters. Note the back wall plates are in 2 pieces each. 1. Lay your double top plates out using this diagram. Pay special attention to the order of the double top plates. Its easy to mix them up, so take your time and lay them out properly. The double plates plates will sit on top of your walls, they can be secured to your walls using 3 screws or nails approx. every L E F T S I D E FRONT WALL Longest Plate Left Side Plate Is Always Shorter Than Right Side 7" Shorter Than Longest Plate RIGHT SIDE The next step will show you how to mark the locations of your common and hip rafters. It may be easier to mark your double top plates on the ground. It should be noted before assembling your roof, that rafters may not seem to fit properly, it will take some adjusting and maneuvering of walls, rafters etc. for the roof to achieve an accurate fit. Be aware there will be slight variances when assembling the structure.

24 Assembly Instructions 2. Clearly mark your plates and remember that there will be 3/4 on either side of the center mark. An 1 ½ total, to accommodate your rafters. Center Common Rafter On This Point. Center Common On 1/2 Way Mark Center Hip Rafters On Outside Corner Center Commo Rafter On 1/2 Way Mark. Center Front Rafter On 1/2 Way Mark Center Common Rafter On This Point, 3. Begin by assembling your 3 hip rafters first. Use screws to secure them to the 3 corners, and another 3-4 screws to secure into your hub. It may be easier to assemble left & right hips to hub 1 st, then lift into place and secure back hip rafter to form a tripod. 8 Sided Hub Hip Rafters (3)

25 Assembly Instructions 4. The cuts at the end of your rafters are referred to as the birds mouth When placing all your rafters be sure that the birds mouth is snug with your top plates. And use three 3 screws to secure your rafters into the plates. It will take some muscle to hold and screw them tight into place. Ensure the "birds mouth" is snug with the top plate Secure to top plate using 3" screws 5. Install your 4 th rafter, the front rafter the same way as your hips. Your ready to install your common rafters. If they don t seem to fit properly, you may have to push or pull down on the hub (peak) or may even have to push or pull the walls, these roofs can be tricky and it will take some patience to achieve a good fit. (1)Front Rafter Common Rafters (4)

26 Assembly Instructions 6. Depending on the size of your roof, between 6-18 (1-3 sets) jacks are required. Jack rafters are secured into hip rafters, there will be 1-left & 1-right. Jack rafters can be maneuvered slightly, their position can be altered to accommodate roof boards. Use 3 screws to secure. Jack Rafters (6) Per Set Left & Right Note. When you receive your plans, you will notice that the Osb roofing boards we show come in full 4 x 8 sheets. The reason for this is because when roofs are assembled there is always a slight variance. Each roof has to be custom fitted with the Osb board we have given you. We apologize for the inconvenience, but we must do it this way to assure a proper fitting and supporting roof structure. Ideally you want the rough side of the Osb facing up, this will supply grip for applying the shingles. There are 2 ways to go about this. (see next page for details, diagram 8 and 9)

27 Assembly Instructions 7. Set back ½ or approx. a finger width. This will eventually be cover with your shingles, so the distance is flexible, but that gap should not be too large. Rafter Osb Roof Board Approx. 1/2 " Top Plate Take a full sheet, and tack it into place using 2 nails. Typically you want all vertical seams to center on your rafters. Cover as much roof as possible with one piece, the less cuts to make the better. Remember that Osb roof boards should not come down flush with the rafters ends, they should sit back appox. a finger width from the end. Figure 7 on previous page. Once your board is in place and you feel confident to use a saw on the roof, use a chalk line to mark the Osb up the hip rafter. Using a circular saw. Cut along the chalk line. Don t throw away your cut off, it can be used somewhere else. See figure 8a. 2. The alternative is to use your tape measure to obtain the measurements to mark and cut. Measure A, remember your measurements are always to the middle of the rafter. Make a mark on your roof board for A. Now measure B, mark your roof board where B is. Use a straight edge or a chalk line to mark a cutting line between A & B. The result will be C, this is the line to run your saw along. The piece can now be lifted into place and tacked into place using 2 nails. See figure 8b.

28 Assembly Instructions - start with the small panels at the bottom. 8a. 8b. B C A 9. Remember that off cuts can be used elsewhere on the roof, usually on the opposite side from where the off cut came. Its also a good idea to stagger your seams as much as possible, the diagram gives a general idea of staggering seams. This strengthens the overall integrity of the roof.

29 Assembly Instructions The roof will be tricky, but doing like this will achieve the best fit possible. Secure your roof boards into place using 1 1/2 nails approx. every 8. That s it, your roof is framed and sheeted, now it s time to move onto your trim!

30 Assembly Instructions 9. 5 Sided Roof Trim Assembly The following instructions provide methods to install all of our Cabana Hip Roof trim. Trim may vary in sizes and material, but the construction procedure remains the same. The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your 5-Sided Cabana. Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature.

31 Assembly Instructions Trim Assembly Begin by organizing all your trim parts. Separate them by their length and width. It should be noted that most of the trim should be cut long, you will need to make some cuts yourself, using a handsaw and/or a circular saw. These measures are taken to ensure the cedar is top quality, and if any minimal cracking that has occurred it can be cut off. 1. Typically we start with the soffits. Soffits are the cedar trim that are attached to the underside of the rafter ends. On smaller units, the soffits will all be the length of the building. However, on our larger units the soffits will be cut into two or more pieces. They should always meet centered on a rafter. Standard overhang roof s will consist of one course, and extra overhang roof s will have two courses. Take a piece of trim that has a 45 degree angle on one end, center the cut on the hip rafter (corner) while the piece is held in position, mark the opposite end to the center of the closest rafter. Make a straight cut across, use two 2 nails to fasten into position. 1st Course (standard overhang) 2nd Course (extra overhang) 1st Cut Stnd/extra Staggered Joints (extra overhang)

32 Assembly Instructions 2. The short side walls trim is cut straight. The front wall trim is cut at 22.5* A small corner will have to be cut off. Nail it into place and hand saw it following the side wall soffits straight across. These corners can be tricky, you will have to cut off a small corner to accomodate joining trim. 3. It should be noted that when your soffits are complete, they should come past the end of your rafters. Rafter Fascia is not flush with rafter Wall 1st Course Standard Overhang 2nd Course Extra Overhang Fascia

33 Assembly Instructions 4a. Fascia is the cedar trim that runs vertically around the structure. It is used to cover your rafter ends. The top of the fascia should come up level where the angle on the rafter ends. Use arrow as a gauge. Rafter Wall Soffits Fascia 4b. All the trim is secured using 1 1/2 nails. Take your time when nailing your fascia into the soffits, be careful your nails are directly into the soffits. Fascia will also be cut long to avoid cracked ends. Fascia on the front and the back of your structure will come past your side fascia. On larger units your fascia will also come in more than one piece. Just be sure to push joints tight to one another. To cut your fascia to the right size, either hold it up to its position, mark, and the cut it on the ground. Another possibility is to nail your fascia into the soffits and then cut while its in place. Its not until you have assembled your soffits and fascia that you can begin shingling. Window trim is already assembled with your windows, certain windows may require additional trimming, but generally is limited to one piece and is self explanatory. See the included documents on how to install the door you have purchased.

34 Assembly Instructions 4c. Rafter Fascia 5. Identify your skirts, will be full width pieces of trim. It will take some cutting and or digging grooves to custom fit the pieces to the grade of the ground. Try to minimize space between the ground and your skirts.

35 Assembly Instructions 6. Nail side corners flush with front walls. The front corner should cover the edge of side corner. Corners should be pushed right up to soffits and should come down to bottom of skirts. Flush With Soffits Corner Trim (2) Flush with Bottom Of Skirts Side Corner Front Corner 7. The front wall to side wall corner trim is a little bit different. You will notice that these trim pieces are ripped on an angle up the side. The are joined together like the opposite drawing. Side Wall Front Wall Your trim is complete, your nearing completion!

36 Assembly Instructions Notes: - Door and window trim separate. - Shingles are now ready for installation, we recommend following the manufacturer s instructions because installation procedures may vary. Notes:

37 Deluxe and French Door Appendix 1) Cut out the bottom plate where it crosses the door opening. Use a handsaw and cut the plate flush with the door studs. The rough opening should now be 36 1/2" x 73 1/2". 2) Decide which way you want your door to operate. It may be hinged on either side and may swing in or out (consider the intended use of your shed and possible space constraints). Lay the door on the floor of the shed and arrange the horizontal door jamb, the vertical door jambs and the threshold around it. See Door Layout Detail. 36" 34" 1/4" 1/4" horizontal door jamb 3/16" 8" 71 7/8" 71 1/2" Door Layout Detail vertical door jamb 3/16" 8" threshold support 41" threshold rev. 02/03/00 page 24

38 3) Place one hinge 8" from the bottom of the door, and the other hinge 8" from the top of the door. Ensure that the top of the hinge-pins point to the top of the door and that the front edges of the hinge plates are flush with the face of the door. See Hinge Detail 1 and 2. Attach the hinges to the door using the 1 1/4" screws provided. 4) Place on of the vertical door jambs on edge on the door face next to the hinges. Position the jamb so that the overhang is the same at the top and bottom of the door. Flip the hinges open so they lay flat against the 3 1/2" face of the jamb. Lift the jamb up until the back edge of the hinge plate is flush with the edge of the jamb. Attach the hinge to the jamb using only two screws, leave the middle hole empty (this is where the jamb will be attached to the door stud). These screws will protrude through the back of the jamb, but should not interfere with the installation of the door. See Hinge Detail 1 and 2. 5) Now flip the hinged jamb to the closed position. Attach the horizontal door jamb to the vertical jamb using either three - 1 3/4" nails or two - 2 1/2" screws provided (pre-drill holes if you use the screws). Make sure that the horizontal jamb is flush with the end and edge of the vertical jamb. 3 1/2" leave this hole empty leave this hole empty flush here 3/16" approx. 8" Hinge Detail 1 flush here 8" 3/16" approx. vertical door jamb flush here flush here door 8" Hinge Detail 2 3/16" (approx) rev. 02/03/00 page 25

39 6) Now attach the threshold to the bottom of the vertical jamb. The front of the threshold is the edge that has the 2 1/2" tabs ( these tabs go flush to the outside of the front wall panels). Keep this edge facing the right way (this depends if your door swings in or out). Keep the inside edge of the threshold flush to the inside edge of the vertical jamb and the outside edge of the threshold flush to the outside face of the vertical jamb. Nail or screw as in step 5. See Threshold Detail. 7) Attach the other vertical jamb in the same manner as the first. 8) Stand the door into the opening and make sure that the jambs are flush to the outside of the wall panels. Check the gap between the door and the jambs - it should be even around all sides. If necessary, use the shims provided to shim the door behind each hinge in order to even out the gap (split the shims as required so that you will have enough). If the hinged jamb is tight to the door stud and the gap around the door is even, the shims are not necessary. Open the door and attach the jamb through the third hole in each hinge using the 2 1/2" screws provided. 9) Shim the other vertical jamb and door stud at the top, middle, and bottom. Make sure that the gap between the door and the jamb is even. Using 2 1/2" screws, attach the jamb to the shims and door stud. Center the screws in the middle of the jamb so that when the door stop is attached, it will hide the screws. 10) Mount the lock set according to the manufacturer's instructions. 11) Close the door and place the vertical door stop on the left and right side of the door. Position the stop so that it is flush to the door face. Do not push the stop too tight to the door, as this will impede the performance of the door and lock set. Nail the door stop to the jambs using five - 1 3/4" nails per stop. Nail the horizontal door stop between the tops of the vertical door stops (you may wish to temporarily shim the horizontal door jamb with scrap material to avoid forcing the jambs apart at the top). 12) Using four - 1 3/4" nails, attach the threshold support to the wall under the lip of the threshold. The ends should be flush with the ends of the threshold. See Door Layout Detail. 13) Place the vertical door casing on the threshold lip. Position the casing approximately 1/8" to 1/4" from the inside edge of the jamb. Attach using five - 1 3/4" nails. Repeat for the other side of the door. See Door Casing Detail. 14) Center the horizontal door casing on top of the vertical casing and attach with three nails. flush here flush here vertical jamb inside edge threshold outside edge Threshold Detail vertical door casing approx. 1/8" - 1/4" of jamb left exposed vertical door jamb threshold threshold support Door Casing Detail rev. 02/03/00 page 26

40 INSTALLING ASPHALT SHINGLES (REQUIRED) Using four nails per shingle, nail as shown in drawing. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with,but not cutting into shingle surface. Follow illustrations to apply Shingles to your Building. 1" (2.5 cm) 1/2" (1.3 cm) Sealing Strip 1" (2.5 cm) NAILS After completing shingling your building, remove any overhanging, excess shingles by cutting them off with a utility knife. First row of Shingles are installed backwards to make a seal barrier-flush to bottom of Drip Edge It is okay if last Shingle overlaps it will be cut off later Roof Shingle Line up notch on top of Shingle with edge of Roof to stagger the Shingles Line up notch on side of Shingle with edge of Roof to stagger the Shingles

41 INSTALLING SHINGLES (CONTINUED) To cover the Peak of your building, cut strip Shingles into individual pieces by dividing at cutout as shown. Bend each piece over the Peak and nail 5-7/8 (14.9cm) above the butt edge and 1 (2.5cm) in from each side, exposing each piece 5-1/8 (13cm) to the weather. Cut single Shingle into three pieces Cut any Shingles Overhanging Sides 5-1/8" (13cm) 5-7/8" (14.9cm) NAIL INSPECTION After assembly is finished, check the entire building inside and out for any protruding nails. Pound any protruding nails into the wood or cut them off flush. Roof Panel Trim Nails Not in Studs Nail That Missed Stud REQUIRED MAINTENANCE See requirements in the limited conditional warranty on the last page of this manual. Keep Sprinklers Away From Building Keep Grass Trimmed See Warranty Requirements

42 Limited Conditional Warranty WARRANTY We warrant the following: 1. Every product is warranted from defects in workmanship and manufacturing for two years. 2. All hardware and metal components are warranted for two years. 3. Trim is warranted for 3 years. 4. Waferboard siding and sheathing is warranted for two years. 5. T 1-11, Cedar and Canexel siding are warranted for 15 years. We will repair, replace or pay for the affected part. In no event shall we pay the cost of labor or installation or any other costs related thereto. All warranties are from date of purchase. If a cash refund is paid on an affected part, it will be prorated from the date of purchase. Note that due to the organic nature of wood, knots, small cracks and minor movement are not considered defects. CONDITIONS The warranty is effective only when: 1. The unit has been erected in accordance with the assembly instructions. 2. The unit has been properly shingled and painted or stained and reasonably and regularly maintained thereafter. 3. The failure occurs when the unit is owned by the original purchaser. 4. We have received the warranty registration card within thirty (30) days of purchase and notification of the failure in writing within the warranty period specified above. 5. We have had reasonable opportunity during the sixty (60) days following receipt of notification to inspect and verify the failure prior to commencement of any repair work. REQUIREMENTS To validate your warranty, it is necessary to properly maintain your building; shingle the roof and paint or solid-colored stain the siding using 100% acrylic latex exterior product with a minimum of two (2) coats within thirty (30) days of assembly; caulk above all doors and all horizontal and vertical trim boards; paint and seal all exposed edges, sides and faces of siding to include all exterior walls and all sides and all edges of doors. Other Requirements Keep vegetation trimmed away from building. Water from sprinklers must be kept off unit. In no event will we be responsible for any indirect, incidental, consequential or special damages nor for failure(s) that are caused by events, acts or omissions beyond our control including, but not limited to, misuse or improper assembly, improper maintenance (which eventually leads to rot or decay) and acts of God. We will not be held responsible for any labor costs incurred to construct your unit. CLAIM PROCEDURE To make a claim under this warranty, call (800) Please have ready the information below when you call or include the information when writing: 1. The model and size of the product. 2. A list of the part(s) for which the claim is made. 3. Proof of purchase of the item, as shown on the original invoice. IMPORTANT: This is your warranty certificate. Please complete and mail your warranty card to properly validate your warranty.

43 It s Done! The location is grand, the landscaping is divine, the colour scheme matches the surroundings perfectly. What s left to do? Win $ Cash! Simply send us a photo of your completed structure and be eligible to win $ On December 30 th we'll choose what we consider to be the nicest shot, and mail the winner a cheque. Elements such as lighting, location, landscaping and stain or paint application will be taken into consideration as well as the overall appeal of the photograph. GOOD LUCK! rev. 02/02/00 ver. 2.00

44 Please detach and return the card (or fax) to the address below (with copy of dated retail receipt) to validate your warranty. Warranty Registration Card Name: Address: City: Province/State: Model: Date Purchased: Retail Outlet: Store Location: We would appreciate a moment of your time to answer the following questions: Did you find the instructions clear? Yes No If not please explain Did you encounter any difficulties with assembly? Yes No If so please explain Kenex Manufacturing Ltd 27 Regan Rd, Brampton, ON L7A 1B2 Tel (Locally ) Fax info@gardendec.com

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