BUILD YOUR OWN. Pack 01

Transcription

1 BUILD YOUR OWN TM Pack 01 01

2 CONTENTS Assembly Guide 03 Stage 1: The fuel tank Stage 2: The cylinder head cover and breather Stage 3: The front wheel and the instruments Stage 4: The handlebars Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, North Road, London N7 9DP. Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE. Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc., 915 Broadway, Suite 609, New York, NY All rights reserved 2014 Warning: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown. TM

3 Stage 1 The fuel tank 1 L R Place the fuel tank and two logos next to each other, as shown, with the left logo on the left of the tank and the right logo on the right. The logos are identified by a stamp on their inner sides, L for the left and R for the right. You will just be temporarily assembling these parts for the time being. Your parts Fuel tank Logo (L) Logo (R) Tools 2 Locate the two pegs on the back of the left logo and the two forward holes on the left side of the fuel tank. Hold the logo so that the pegs are aligned with the holes. 3 Gently push the pegs into the two holes, keeping them aligned as you do. Don t force them into place, because that can damage them. Knife Sandpaper 03

4 4 Push the logo evenly against the tank. 6 Push the pegs fully into the holes Insert the two pegs on the right logo into two forward holes on the right side of the tank. Stage complete

5 Tools you should always have ready To assemble your model Honda CB750, we recommend that you have at least the tools shown above: a set of precision screwdrivers, a knife, pliers and a set of small files. At the beginning of each stage, there will be a list of the tools and other items that you will need, but it is a good idea to have this basic toolkit available. Check the parts before assembly Sometimes, there will be remnants of the manufacturing process on your parts (left). These are known as 'flash' or 'burrs', and you should remove them because they can prevent the parts from fitting together properly and may spoil the look of your model. Always check the parts before assembling them, and remove any burrs or flash that you may find. A burr around one of the holes on the inside of the fuel tank. Carefully use a file to remove the burr, without affecting the surrounding surface. The burr has been filed off and there is no material protruding from the hole. 05

6 Stage 2 The cylinder head cover and breather Check over the wheel, as some of the spokes may have come loose. If any have, simply re-insert them into the appropriate holes. 1 Your parts Front wheel Cylinder head cover Cover breather (upper) Cover breather (lower) Screws (type A) 3 (1 spare) Tools Phillips screwdriver 06 2 The holes in the two projecting parts of the cover breather (upper) are not threaded, so you will need to tighten one of the type A screws into them to cut a thread. Doing this will aid the assembly steps at the end of this stage. First, tighten the screw into one of the holes until only a third of its thread is left visible. 3 When you have tightened the screw into the hole by around two thirds of its length, remove it and repeat the process for the second hole. When the second hole has been threaded, remove the screw and wipe any residue from it.

7 4 6 5 Hold the cylinder head cover with the tachometer cable inlet (circled, top) facing left. Place the cover breather (lower) in the central section of the cover, with the circled projection on the same side as the inlet. 7 Make sure that the parts are flush and are all aligned properly, as shown in the photograph above. Place the cover breather (upper) on top of the lower, inserting the two projections into the two holes. 8 Turn the cylinder head cover over, holding the breather parts in place. Tighten a type A screw into the hole in the centre. If the wheel surface is dirty Stage complete If the wheel gets dirty or loses its shine, you can use nail polish remover or paint thinner to remove the dirt and bring back the shine. Once the first screw is preventing the breather parts from coming loose, tighten the second screw into the hole nearer the edge. Tighten the two screws alternately until they are both flush with the cover. Use a cotton swab to apply the nail polish remover or paint thinner to the dirty or tarnished areas. Always do this in a well-ventilated place. Wipe away the dirt with a tissue. 07

8 Stage 3 Prepare the tyre The front wheel and the instruments Your parts Instrument glasses 2 Speedometer dial Tachometer dial Instrument bodies 2 Instrument housing Instrument spindles 2 Instrument needles 2 Instrument spindle collars 2 Screws (type G) 3 (1 spare) Top yoke Front tyre The front tyre provided with this stage may be covered in a white chalky substance left over from the moulding process. To remove this, wash the tyre with a mild detergent. Cleaning the tyre is not absolutely necessary, but it is best to do it now, before you fit it to the wheel. 1 2 Insert the front wheel from Stage 2 into the gap between the inner walls of the front tyre. Work round the edge of the wheel, lifting the tyre onto the rim on one side of the wheel. 08 Tools Prepare Tweezers Phillips screwdriver Front wheel (Stage 2) Once you have fitted the tyre onto one side of the wheel, turn the wheel over and pull the other side of the tyre into place.

9 3 5 4 Align the hole of one of the instrument needles with the hole in the centre of the speedometer dial. Gently hold the needle in place and insert one of the spindles through the holes in both the needle and the speedometer dial. Place an instrument spindle collar over the end of the pin that is protruding from the back of the speedometer dial. Be careful when doing this, because all the parts are fragile The needle is now fixed to the dial. Align the hole of the remaining instrument needle with the hole in the tachometer dial. Gently hold the needle in place and insert the second spindle through the holes in the needle and the dial. 09

10 Place the second instrument spindle collar over the end of the spindle to secure the parts. The needle is now fixed to the tachometer dial, and both dials are now ready to be fitted to the instrument housing. 12 Place the speedometer dial onto the left-hand side of the instrument housing, inserting the circled projection into the circled notch Make sure that the speedometer dial is flush with the housing. As it is not fixed yet, gently hold it in place during the next few steps. 10 Hold one of the instrument glasses as shown, and locate the circled projection. Insert the projection on the rear of the glass into the hole near the bottom of the speedometer dial.

11 The red circles in this photo indicate the three projections on the back of each instrument body, and the three holes that they fit into on each half of the instrument housing. Fit the instrument body over the speedometer and into the holes in the housing. Position one of the instrument bodies above the speedometer, aligning its three projections with the three holes in the housing Repeat Steps to fit the tachometer dial and its glass to the right-hand side of the instrument housing. Fit the second instrument body over the tachometer and into the holes in the housing. Hold the top yoke as shown, and insert the two projections on the back of the instrument housing into the two holes in the yoke indicated by the green arrows. 11

12 Make sure that the instrument housing projections are fully inserted into the holes in the yoke. Turn the assembly over and tighten a type G screw into the left-hand hole in the top yoke. Be careful not to scratch the black paint off these parts when you are handling and assembling them. 24 Tighten a second type G screw into the top yoke, this time into the hole on the right. The instrument housing will now be fixed to the top yoke. 12 Stage complete

13 Stage 4 The handlebars 1 Before beginning this stage, you should cut a thread in six of the holes in the handlebar clamps. These holes have no thread for the screws at this point, which will make it harder to assemble the clamps later on. Your parts Handlebars Upper handlebar clamps x 2 Lower handlebar clamps x 2 Screws (type A) 7 (1 spare) 2 3 Tools Prepare Phillips screwdriver Top yoke (Stage 3) Tighten a type A screw into the holes, circled in the next step, in both the upper and lower handlebar clamps. Stop when only a third of the length of the screw is still visible, and then remove it from the hole. The six circled holes in the handlebar clamps should all be threaded. 13

14 5 4 There is a small notch at the rear of each of the cutouts on the handlebars (circled). The small projections circled on the lower clamps fit into them. Tighten the screw, stopping when it s holding the clamps close enough together that they can't come free from the handlebar but are still a little loose. 14 Fit one of the lower handlebar clamps into the cutout on the left-hand side of the handlebars, matching the projection with the notch. Insert a type A screw into one of the holes in the lower handlebar clamp Holding the lower handlebar clamp in position, place the upper clamp over the handlebar and on top of the lower clamp. Tighten a type A screw into the second hole in the lower clamp. When this screw is as tight as the first one, start tightening them alternately until they are both completely secure. 10 Fit the other lower handlebar clamp into the cutout on the right-hand side of the handlebars, matching the projection with the notch. Align the holes of the upper clamp with those of the lower clamp and hold the parts in place. 11 CAUTION! Make sure that the screwdriver you use is thin enough to fit into the holes of the lower clamps. A screwdriver that is too large will damage the parts when you tighten the screws.

15 12 13 Place the other upper clamp over the handlebar and on top of the lower clamp, aligning the holes of both. 15 Tighten a type A screw into the second hole in the lower clamp. When this screw is as tight as the first one, start tightening them alternately until they are both completely secure. Turn the assembly over and insert a type A screw into one of the holes in the lower handlebar clamp. Push the projections fully into the holes, and hold the handlebars in position Place the two projections on the bottoms of the lower clamps into the circled holes in the top yoke (Stage 3). Tighten the screw into place. 18 Stage complete Turn the yoke and handlebar assembly over. Hold it as shown here, and insert a type A screw into the hole on the right. 17 Tighten a type A screw into the second hole on the underside of the yoke. The handlebars will now be securely attached to the yoke

16 Honda CB750 FOUR: TM 20