The machine itself has an innovative, totally enclosed, drive train, to protect you from pinched fingers; and to protect the motor from grinding dirt

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1 Introduction Congratulations on your wise purchase of the JET Wet Sharpening Machine. The single biggest difficulty facing beginning woodworkers is getting their tools sharp. Your JET Wet Sharpener is a precision engineered machine that will overcome your sharpening problems. It does this by employing a slow speed, water fed grinding wheel and a clever system of jigs and fixtures to bring your tools to exactly the correct angle. The leather strop will hone and refine the water grind to a polished razor edge. There is nothing new about water cooled grinding wheels, they date back centuries and were usually foot powered. The advantage to a slow speed wet grinding wheel is that a tool edge can never be overheated (possibly drawing the temper) and things happen slowly so that you can control the process. While our forefathers did their grinding by eye or feel, the JET Wet Sharpener employs a wide array of jigs to get the perfect grind angle for just about any tool. The cost of the JET Wet Sharpening System is substantial but no more than you would pay for alternative systems (high speed grinder, stones, auxiliary tables, jigs, etc.) At JET we have taken a careful look at this time honored sharpening method and come up with a number of innovations.

2 The machine itself has an innovative, totally enclosed, drive train, to protect you from pinched fingers; and to protect the motor from grinding dirt and debris. We have also added a torque adjustment that will control the force with which the motor shaft turns against the rubber drive wheel, thus minimizing drive train slippage. Solid bronze bearings which give rock solid support to the drive shaft. Competing machines use plastic bearings. Speed control which will compensate for wheel wear. For each inch of grinding wheel wear the speed needs to be increased 10% to keep the same cutting speed. A variable speed control allows speeds between 90 and 150 RPM to accomplish this end. As your skill increases you will be able to use the extra speed to get your sharpening done faster as well. A convenient storage drawer for jigs, and accessories into the front of the machine.

3 A Grinding Angle Set-up Jig that allows you to repeat exact grinding angles which magnetically attaches to the front of the machine for storage. Good water management which keeps water in the water trough and off of the bench. This is achieved by a system of generous gutters that surround the wheel and divert the water back to the trough. A convenient sub-base that raises the machine to a more convenient working height, further improves water management, has two additional storage drawers and has a place for cord storage. The plug has a snap to keep the rolled cord in place. A close fitting cover that has Velcro closures around the handle and keeps the machine clean and protected when not in use.

4 Setting Up the Machine The JET Wet Sharpening Machine is shipped ready to go from the factory and only needs minor assembly. The first order of business is to remove the storage drawer, turn the machine over and remove the foam shipping block that is taped to the motor. This protects the drive train during shipping. Now install the 10 grinding wheel (packed in the bottom of the box). Undo the nut on the arbor, remove and discard the plastic shipping sleeve, install the wheel, replace the nut and lightly torque with a 19mm wrench. Most grinding wheels are delivered as molded, which means they are not perfectly round and have to be trued. JET has a Diamond Truing Tool to true wheels that are out of round. However, because we know that you want to get down to sharpening your tools as soon as possible, JET takes the extra step of truing our grinding wheels at the factory so all you have to do is to mount the wheel and get down to business. Next install the Watering Trough and fill to the ledge with water. To install slip the trough under then up around the Grinding Wheel. Hook the slot in the back of the Water Trough over one of the two metal tabs on the back right side of the machine. Slip hook at the front of the trough sidewise into the slot in the right side behind grinding wheel. The wheel will soak up a lot of water so turning the machine on and slowly adding more water as it is soaked up is good practice. Now install the Bar that all of the jigs mount on. It is good to rub some paraffin on the bar so that accessories slide easily and freely. Additional paraffin should be applied any time jigs do not slide easily. The Bar can be placed in two different positions depending on whether you want to grind into or off of an edge. This will become apparent once we get into the section of this manual where we explain how the jigs are used. An additional Bar so that you can have one in the front and top positions is handy. Another handy accessory is the Support Arm Extension which attaches to the Bar and compensates for the difference between the Grinding Wheel and the Strop. Store the accessories that come with the machine in the storage drawer.

5 Water Trough A lot of thoughtful design went into the Water Trough to achieve the good water management of the JET Wet Sharpener. Large overhanging gutters direct water back into the Trough where it belongs, keeping it off of your bench or work station. The Water Trough should be cleaned often, especially after Diamond Truing. Stone and metal debris build up quickly in the bottom of the trough. At some level debris will decrease the water volume sufficiently to make irrigating the wheel problematic. Also if the wheel is running in debris they more readily contaminate grinding operations. Attaching a permanent magnet to the bottom front edge of the trough will pull steel swarf out of suspension and keep it from contaminating your grind. Do not pour the stone grindings and swarf down your drain or a stopped up drain is the probable result.

6 Conditioning the Strop The strop is a piece of thick resilient leather glued to a plastic wheel. Leather is a good media to deliver fine abrasives which will bring your freshly ground edges to a mirror polish in a process called honing. We use the Stone Grinding Wheel for grinding and the Leather Strop for honing. Stropping is always done with the wheel turning away from the edge. If you attempt to go toward the edge, it will dig in, ruin the strop and could cause serious personal injury. A new strop will give a slight bump due to the seam in the leather belt around the wheel. This will smooth out as the strop wears in. While you can simply apply some of the Polishing Compound (supplied with the machine) directly to a new Strop; however, soaking the leather first with mineral oil will improve how the strop works and use much less Compound in the long run. You may also apply fine valve grinding compound (240 grit or finer) in place of Polishing Compound, which will make the strop more aggressive. In addition to bringing our ground surface to a polish at the edge honing also removes feather. The beginner will find it useful to move the bar so that the jig in use will be positioned to strop off of the edge. This usually requires that the bar be adjusted closer to the strop as the grinding wheel is larger in diameter than the strop. There is a handy accessory, the Auxiliary Support that negates this problem. Experienced users will find it possible to hand hold most tools during stropping and dispense with the use of the bar in honing. Stropping of the backs of such tools as plane blades and chisels is problematic, because they work better if the back remains perfectly flat. The Leather Strop will remove more materials from the outside corners than from the center with a loss of flatness the result. For this reason the honing of the backs is better done on a polishing stone. You simply alternate between stropping the bevel on the Strop and polishing the back on a fine polishing stone. We favor fine ceramic stones for polishing. They are ultra flat, remain that way for years and do not need lubricant such as oil or water. A little water is usually on the tool from grinding and only improves the action of a ceramic stone. Double side taping a ceramic stone to the edge of the work area just in front of the machine makes it available at all times for the removing of burr and polishing of the back of any flat tool. Other types of polishing stones may be use as well.

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8 The Auxiliary Strop The Auxiliary Strop is conditioned in exactly the same way as the main strop. The Auxiliary Strop will hone tools with curved edges, such as carving gouges and turning tools, because its curved surfaces will get to the inside radius of a flute or the out side sweep of the bevel. Cutting Theory We need to take a minute and look at how tools cut. First of all what is sharp? A sharp edge occurs when two planes (or for edges coming off our water wheel a radius) meet perfectly. In most tools it is a bevel and the back that have to meet perfectly but such implements as knives and turning skews have two bevels that have to meet perfectly. This means we have an arc and a flat surface or two arcs (or two flat surfaces) which have to meet perfectly. Unfortunately, as steel is thinned the resulting edge does not naturally form perfectly. As the edges meet the steel forms a very thin foil that in use will roll over and give the effect of a radius. There are many names for this phenomena feather edge, foil edge and burred edge to name three. A feather edge is the natural outcome of any grinding operation, wet or dry. Grinding into an edge will generally produce less feather than grinding away from it. Unfortunately some jigs require grinding away from the edge. This is o.k. because the strop will solve all of your feather problems through the process of honing. Honing refines the edge by removing feather and bringing the bevel, especially at the very edge, to a polish. With such tools as pocket and kitchen knives and draw knives, the edge is usually drawn lengthwise over the object being cut. Fibrous materials such as food, string rope and wood are better cut by a relatively coarse grind at the edge. By sharpening them on the water wheel only, and not honing them, such tools will generally cut better because at a microscopic level the coarse grind acts like a serrated edge and picks up fibers, severing them more readily. The exception is whittling knives which should be honed to mirror surfaces. The thinnest section a piece of hardened tool steel can be ground to is about 15. Any thinner and the edge will snap during use rendering it useless. Carving tools are routinely ground to this fine edge and then honed mirror bright to achieve the fine detail and polished surfaces expected of good carving. The thin section does not present a problem because carving tools cut in knot-free, easily-cut woods, in favorable grain directions. Tools like bench chisels that we use for paring, hand cutting dovetails and inletting hinges would not hold up in service at 15. We generally grind these tools to somewhere between 25 and 30.

9 At this thicker cross-section they can go through knots in hard woods and hold their edge. Timber framers who routinely work in oak often grind to as much as 35. A few tools such as turning tools for face plate work are ground to still blunter angles. All of these angles are for traditional methods of sharpening, mostly on flat stones which produces a flat grind. Because the JET Wet Sharpener s 10 grinding wheel produces a slight hollow grind, and hence a thinner section at the edge, it is best to increase the traditional angle of grind by up to 3. The table below will help you to get a good starting grind for your tools. Starting grind is the key word here. If you have problems with edge failure increase the angle of grind by about 3 at a time and test in service. If the edge is holding up fine but you want more of a paring cut, decrease the angle of grind by 3 and test. Tool Traditional JET Wet Angle Angle Carving Tools Bench and Butt Chisels Timber Framing or any extraordinary service situation Patternmaker s and Firmer Gouges Plane Blades Spindle Gouges Same Bowl Gouges Asymmetrical Same 75 Nose to on Flanks Turning scrapers 75 to 80 Same Knives 15 to 40 Same Stone Grader Included with the machine, the stone grader is two pieces of synthetic abrasive laminated together. It is used for smoothing out the wheel anytime the surface becomes irregular either from truing the wheel with the Diamond Truing Tool or through use. The rough side is used first, especially after diamond truing. The rough grading of the wheel should be used for the initial grinding and shaping of tools because things happen much faster. The fine side of the Stone Grader will impart a finer cutting action to the wheel and is good once initial geometry is established because less subsequent honing is necessary. While the Stone Grader will remove cupping and irregularities from your wheel it will not true the wheel. There is a limit to how many times you can grade a wheel before it becomes out or round and the surface is no longer parallel to the Bar. When this occurs it is necessary to employ the Diamond Truing Tool and bring the wheel back to perfect geometry.

10 Diamond Truing Tool The easy way to decide if the Grinding Wheel needs truing is to bring the bar very close to the wheel, turn on the machine and sight between the bar and the wheel. You will see if the wheel is out of round or that it is not parallel to the bar. If either condition is present it is time to true. The Diamond Truing Tool consists of a diamond cluster which mounts on the Bar in conjunction with a yoke. It makes the Water Grinding Wheel perfectly round and brings the surface of the wheel parallel to the Bar. Both these conditions are necessary for good operation of all of the jigs.

11 To use the Diamond Truing Tool place the Bar in the top position and mount the diamond on the bar with the yoke straddling it (and the wheel) as shown in the photo. With the machine running use the Fine Adjusting Nut on the Bar to lower the diamond until it just touches the wheel. Now slowly run the diamond back and forth over the wheel until you have brought the entire surface round. On a badly out of true wheel this can take fifteen minutes. Once the wheel is true, grade the wheel starting with the coarse side of the Stone Grader. Jigs The wonderful thing about the JET Wet Sharpener is that you can employ a wide variety of special purpose jigs to grind a perfect angle on just about any tool. Right from the box you can get refined edges that will get you working in style. In addition to the wide selection of jigs offered directly by JET you may also use any of the jigs offered by other companies such as the Scheppach and the Tormek. JET s Jigs will also work on these machines. JET is continually working on new jigs to solve more of your sharpening problems.

12 Setting the Correct Angle Bevel Checking Gauge The Bevel Checking Gauge is included with the machine and magnetically attaches in a pocket molded into the left side. Adjusting it to a tool edge will allow you to read the angle in the built in magnifier. It is good for duplicating a grind or checking that you have the correct grind. The Grinding Angle Set-up Jig Start by measuring the diameter of the grinding wheel. You can determine this by looking down at the top of the front right corner of the machine where there is a scale that tells you the diameter of the wheel. Set the pointer of the Grinding Angle Set-up Jig to this value. Be sure to reset this pointer as the wheel diameter decreases from truing and wear. Position the black pointer on the right side of the jig to the angle you desire to grind. Place the jig you intend to use with a tool mounted in it on the Bar. Bring the tool in contact with the wheel and put the angle pointer on top of the tool. With the wheel diameter pointer against the wheel adjust the Bar until there is perfect contact between the tool and the angle pointer. (Fine adjustment of the bar is accomplished with the nut on the leg.) Once the right setting is achieved lock the bar with the two knobs. Use the magnets to attach the Grinding Angle Set-Up Jig to the front of the machine and proceed with sharpening the tool.

13 Duplicating Existing Grinds Sometimes you have a tool that is working perfectly and you just want to keep the status quo. For things such as turning tools the Angle Set-Up Jig will not work. Complicating the matter some tools have asymmetric grinds with the angle changing at different places on the edge. A good way to duplicate an edge is to ink the bevel with a black or blue felt tip marking pen. Now place the tool in the appropriate jig and adjust the bar until the angle looks about right when viewed from the side. Turn the grinding wheel by hand and see if you are rubbing the ink on the bevel away. Adjust accordingly until you are taking ink from the entire bevel (or the exact center of the bevel in some cases). With tools like turning gouges you will have to play with the setting of both the jig and the bar so that you are rubbing the ink away from both the tip and the flanks of the tool appropriately.

14 The Straight Edge Jig One of the most useful jigs for your Wet Sharpener is the Straight Edge Jig and this is why we include it with the machine. It allows the grinding of most straight edge tools such as chisels, jointer plane blades and block plane blades. It will handle #08 blades directly without having to put one of the studs through the slot in the iron, a drawback to com-peting machines. Place the tool you wish to grind against the left hand fence (or edge) of the Jig (this brings the tool square with the Jig) and lightly torque the holding knobs. It is best to torque the left hand knob lightly then the right hand knob. Then alternately increase the torque of each knob in turn until the tool is secure. With a narrow chisel it is easy to over torque the right hand knob causing the chisel to become cocked in the jig resulting in an angled edge. After tightening inspect that the clamp block is parallel to the base of the jig. Loosen and tighten knobs until it is. Place the jig on the bar, start the machine and adjust angle with the Grinding Angle Set-up Jig. Once the angle is correct, slowly run the edge back and for the over the Grinding Wheel. Proceed until a burr is raised over the entire edge. Hone as outlined below to remove the burr and polish the edge.

15 Stropping of the backs of such tools as plane blades and chisels is problem-atic, because they work better if the back remains perfectly flat. The Leather Strop will remove more material from the outside corners than from the center with a loss of flatness the result. For this reason the honing of the backs of such tools is better done on a polishing stone; simply alternate between stropping the bevel and polishing the back on the polishing stone. We favor fine ceramic stones because they are ultra flat and remain that way for years and do not require lubricant. A little water is usually on the tool from grinding and only improves the action of a ceramic stone. Double side taping a ceramic stone to the edge of the work station just in front of the machine makes it available at all times for the removing of burr and polishing of the back of any flat tool. Other polishing stones may be use as well.

16 Photo Essay: Camber With the Straight Edge Jig

17 Grinding Camber in Plane Blades While many plane blades are ground straight (block, shoulder, rabbet, jointer, etc.) the cutters of smoothing and jack planes are generally ground with a slight radius to the edge what is called camber. A bit of camber allows the plane to cut without leaving lines from one or both edges of the blade. While the JET Camber Jig allows the grinding of any amount of camber in any plane blade some camber is possible with the Straight Edge Jig in some plane blades. This scheme assumes some play in the system and some flex in the blade. For standard bench plane blades a limited amount of camber can usually be ground into the edge. The scheme does not work well with heavier replacement blades or any thick iron for that matter. Because the Camber Jig is designed for these situations it makes the grinding of any blade that requires camber easier and more precise. The Plane Camber Jig The cutters (variously called a blade or an iron as well) of smoothing and jack planes are generally ground with a slight radius to the edge what is called camber. A bit of camber allows the plane to cut without leaving lines from one or both edges of the blade. The Plane Camber Jig allows grinding of any amount of camber in any plane blade. Planes that are intended for light cuts in final work will have less camber, while planes intend for heavy, roughing cuts will need more camber. Somewhere between.003 and.010 of camber is needed. For most planes.005 is a good starting point. If you need a smother surface decrease the camber and if edges are leaving lines increase the camber. The chart below will help you calculate the settings you need.

18 Photo Essay: Use of the JET Camber Jig

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20 In use you alternately press the two plastic buttons with your thumbs as you slide the blade back and forth over the wheel. It takes a bit of practice to be smooth, but the scheme is to slowly transfer more pressure from one thumb to the other. You should end up with all the pressure on the button over the edge that is over the wheel and almost none on the other. (Part of the cutter is off the wheel.) If your transfer of force between thumbs is smooth you will end up with a perfect crown in your cutting edge. Stropping of the backs of plane blades with camber is accomplished the same as previously described for other plane blades. The Flat Rest The Flat Rest is an extremely simple, but highly useful jig. It is an adjustable platform that provides support for a tool as it is presented to the wheel. We will show you some of the ways it can be used but you will probably think of many more. Photo Essay: Using the Flat Rest Used on the side of the wheel with the Side Wheel Support to grind the edges of card scrapers in preparation for burnishing. The traditional way of sharpening a card scraper is to remove the old bur, and work hardened area beneath it, with a file. Placing a scraper blade on The Flat Rest and bringing it into contact with the side of the wheel is far superior to filing. You achieve an absolutely square edge with a much finer grind quality than a file leaves. You need only lightly stone the edge and burnish as normal.

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22 Carving Tool Jig The Carving Tool Jig is for precise grinding of carving gouges of any sweep. The gouge to be ground is secured in the v block as in the photo. Try to center the tool in the V block as much as possible. This jig works best with the bar at the front position so you grind off of the edge. Use the Grinding Angle Set-up Jig to achieve the correct grinding angle which is usually 18 (15 with a traditional flat grind) for carving tools. Try to roll the tool slowly and evenly during grinding, distributing the wear on the wheel as much as possible. Hone outside curves on the Leather Strop and the inside curves on The Auxiliary Strop. You may also use fine stones to refine the edge. Photo Essay: Using the Carving Tool Jig

23 Axe Jig The Axe Jig is good for hand, felling, splitting and broad axes but will not do double bitted axes. The axe is cradled in the jig and presented to the wheel as in the photo. Note that we are grinding into the edge. Since all but the broad are double beveled the ax is reversed in the jig and presented in a mirror image of the first grind. Axes do not generally require honing. Scissors Jig The Scissors Jig will handle scissors of all sizes and shapes. They are often called shears, because the blades rub against each other physically shearing material sidewise. For this reason scissors do better with a grind straight off the water fed Grinding Wheel and no honing whatsoever. The rough grind allows the blade to grab onto things like cloth or paper and hold them while the blades act, shearing the fibers apart. With a polished edge the material will slip forward out of the scissors rather than being sheared. Scissors need a straight grind (or very slightly curved) of the edge so the wheel should be recently trued. If the wheel needs truing do so before proceeding. Photo Essay: Using the JET Scissors Jig Start by clamping one of the two blades in the jig as shown in the photo. Now install the Teflon coated Rest on the bar. With scissors it is best to duplicate the existing grind as described in Duplicating an Existing Grind. Once adjusted, turn on the machine and slowly move the edge across the wheel as in the photo. Take care to keep the edge registered flat on the wheel to maintain a straight (or very slightly convex) edge.

24 The inside faces of good scissors are hollow ground, so that only the edges touch. In use the area just below the edge wears flat. Sharpening not only renews the edge but must grind the blade back far enough to get below this flat area. How much you have to remove can usually be seen by a faint line just below the edge. You should grind away enough material to remove this line. After grinding, most scissors (especially ones with hollow ground inner faces) will be loose because the blades no longer come nicely into contact. On good scissors this can be adjusted by loosening the nut on the bolt that holds the two blades together, tightening the bolt and then the nut (without the bolt turning). Cheap scissors are usually riveted and it is possible to peen the rivet on an anvil with varying degrees of success in tightening.

25 Knife Jigs Sharpening of kitchen and pocket knives is another case where a rough grind, right off the water wheel, is superior to honing. This is because such knives are used by drawing the edge across the item to be cut. A rough grind grabs fibers and severs them better than a highly polished edge. When the blade is pushed directly into the work (carving knives and similar) the edge should be honed, either on the leather strop or with a very fine polishing stone. The angle of grind on knives varies greatly depending on the intended use. Woodcarving and filet knives are as little as 15 while survival knives are 30 or more. Most kitchen and pocket knives are in between these two extremes. For most knives 20 to 25 is a good place to start. Remember that knives are double beveled so you must set the Grinding Angle Set-up Jig to half the angle you wish to grind. Complicating the matter is the fact that most knife blades are tapered. That is they are thicker at the top than at the edge and this tricks the Angle Set-Up Jig into giving you a steeper grind than wanted. For this reason it is necessary to add a correction factor between 1 to as much as 6 to the angle you want. This depends on how much taper there is in the blade. The more the taper the more you have to increase the angle. The link below will help you to figure out the correction factor.

26 Photo Essay: Using Knife Jigs

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28 Knife Angle Correction Chart Blade Height in MM Correction Factor in Degrees to be Added to Value Desired Maximum Thickness in MM at Top

29 Turning Gouge Jig Turners differ from woodworkers in general in that they talk about the length of the bevel rather than a specific angle. For a turner a long bevel is an acute angle in the 25 range. A short bevel is an inclusive grind of about 70 or more. Turning gouges are a very difficult to grind. Traditionally they were ground by eye on high speed grinders, which was not a very good scheme as it resulted in burnt edges and bevels that were too short. The Gouge Jig solves this problem providing good geometry and grinding that is free of heat. Few gouges come from the factory ground correctly and this is nothing new. James Lukin in his book The Lathe and its Uses, published in 1868, complained that, gouges come from the factory with bevels that are way too short. Therefore, the first order of business is putting the correct geometry into your new gouge. Complicating matters, there is much debate amongst turners about tool geometry. The following photo essays will give you workable grinds for spindle and bowl gouges but feel free to experiment with grinding angles. The Bevel Checking Gauge does not work for checking turning gouge angles. If you have a grind that you simply want to duplicate on the JET Wet Sharpener the best method is to use a marking pen as explained under Duplicating Existing Grinds.

30 Photo Essay: Sharpening a Spindle Gouge

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32 Photo Essay: Sharpening a Bowl Gouge

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34 Side Wheel Support The Side Wheel Support is used with the Flat Rest to grind on the side of the wheel. The most common task is the grinding of card scrapers, but it may also be used for other tools such as turning skew chisels. Support Arm Extension The Strop is smaller in diameter than the Grinding Wheel. This means that when switching over to honing the Bar must be reversed (or moved from the top position and reversed) and adjusted inward by half the difference in diameters. The Support Arm Extension overcomes this problem by adding a Bar to the left that adjustable to any lesser amount. This makes switching from grinding to honing much easier.

35 Free Hand Grinding One final grinding aid is YOU. The nice thing about the JET Wet Sharpener is that things happen slowly without heat. This gives you control over the process making free hand grinding much easier. By moving the bar to the front position and close to the wheel you can use it as a fulcrum point to balance a tool on and grind by eye. Because you are grinding off of the edge there is little, if any, danger. Free Hand is a great way to grind complicated edges such as molding plane irons. Maintenance Truing the Wheel While your JET Wet Sharpener is designed to be trouble free there are a few things you can do to keep it running in tip top condition. The first is truing the wheel. With use and grading with the Stone Grader the wheel will become out of round and differ in diameter from one edge to the other. This means that the surface of the wheel is no longer parallel to the bar and the jigs will not work properly. An easy way to test the grinding wheel s condition is to bring the bar in very close proximity to the grinding wheel. With the wheel running you will be able to gauge its concentricity and if it is parallel to the bar. When either or both conditions are present, truing with the Diamond Truing Tool is absolutely necessary. When in doubt true the wheel.

36 Reconditioning the Strop and Auxiliary Strop The Strop and the Auxiliary Strop should be recharged with either Polishing Compound or valve grinding compound (your choice) at the beginning of any sharpening session or anytime there is a loss of polishing action. Oiling them occasionally with additional mineral oil is also good maintenance. Drive Train Slippage If the drive train develops slippage, even with the tension adjustment turned up, the rubber Drive Tire is probably glazed. By removing the Strop (and the Auxiliary Strop if present) the Drive Tire is exposed. Wrap a sheet of fine sandpaper around a short length of scrap wood and with the machine running sand the Tire until the glaze is removed. The wood batten insures that your fingers will not get pinched and that you have good leverage. When replacing the Strop make sure that the three bosses around the center hole engage so that it has positive engagement to the drive train and runs true. Replacing the Motor Brushes After a very long time the brushes in the D.C. motor will need changing. This is a simple task. The following photo essay will walk you through the process. Replacement brushes can be obtained from an authorized JET Repair Center. They can also do the entire brush replacement for you.

37 Photo Essay: Replacing the Motor Brushes

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40 Clean the Water Trough The Water Trough should be cleaned often, especially after Diamond Truing. Stone and metal debris (swarf) build up quickly in the bottom of the trough. At some level debris will decrease the water volume sufficiently to make irrigating the wheel problematic. Also if the wheel is running in swarf, contamination of grinding operations is the likely result. Attaching a permanent magnet to the bottom front edge of the trough will pull steel swarf out suspension and keep it from contaminating your grind. Do not pour the stone grinding debris down your drain or a stopped up drain is the probable result. You Are the Most Important Factor In this manual we have tried to give you lots of ideas on how to use the JET Wet Sharpener effectively. Sharp tools are a state of mind and with experience you will likely figure new and better ways of doing things. Please share these ideas with us here at JET so that we can help all users to get better results. The importance of sharp tools cannot be overstated. Work sharp and work safe!