BUILD YOUR OWN PLASTIC AND ACRYLIC DISPLAY CASES By: Wes Marden

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1 BUILD YOUR OWN PLASTIC AND ACRYLIC DISPLAY CASES By: Wes Marden A complete guide to mastering the art of making your own beautiful display cases at a fraction of the cost of buying them! (Junkers 52 in display case constructed while writing this book.) GREEN GATEWAY LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED WORLDWIDE

2 THE COPYING OF THIS BOOK IS PROHIBITED BY LAW Above is an unconventional display case in terms of what most people use them for. I want you to think outside the box when designing yours. The base can be stained, painted or turned into a deck on a pier. Book Index

3 THE ART OF DISPLAYING YOUR OWN MODELS AND TREASURES You must always remember that you may have the best looking, best built, plastic model case in town but if the case is to big or the object(s) being displayed are crowed it does nothing but to distract from the whole presentation. As you can see in the following pictures the advantages of laying out your material before actually constructing your case. The first shows the advantages of a mirror on a great model. The second, to much clutter. Picture three, good model, base to small. Picture four removes the clutter from picture two and shows four old lead soldiers. Big difference in appearance. You can see from the above layouts how important it is to do the basic ground work on the display before you ever start cutting plastic to make a case. You will also find it rewarding to realize you have a lot more artistic talent than you ever dreamed of as you try out your display ideas, not to mention the time and material you are saving.

4 BASE SELECTION IDEAS FOR DISPLAYING YOUR MATERIAL When it comes to base or not to base that is the question. Hope you don t mind me having a little fun with William Shakespeare and his great works. You can have fun building your case(s) or they can be a drudgery. I found that when I turn a project into something of fun the workmanship and beauty is greatly enhanced. So lets have fun. To base simply means that your plastic or acrylic cover is going to fit into, over or on something like wood or a mirror that is an integral part of the unit. Not to base means you only have a plastic or acrylic structure to cover an object(s). The pictures displayed below are some ideas for your consideration as we move forward. So you see you have many options to consider when building your case. In the coming pages we will tie all these ideas together and show you how to construct a case that fits only your needs.

5 MATERIAL AND TOOL REQUIREMENTS The material shown above is all inclusive for not only constructing an Acrylic cover but several Base options including the use of a mirror. The use of the terminology Acrylic and Plastic mean the same thing for construction purposes in this book. If you are only constructing an Acrylic case cover most of the above tools are not required. The only items not shown are a table or ban saw.

6 MIRROR AND BASE OPTIONS You are now getting started and the first consideration is whether or not you are going to use a mirror as part of the base. If so the FIRST STEP is to cut the mirror to size. There is a very practical reason for this. Cutting a mirror to fit exactly what you want it to fit on or into is tricky. There is no way to easily trim a mirror to fit a base after it has been cut. However, tracing the outline of the mirror on a piece of wood for the base becomes a no brainier. Just be sure you have a perfect square or rectangle made for the mirror before you start. The pictures above depict the squaring-up process to use before cutting the mirrors. If you do things correctly at the start of your project, and take your time you will find that is the key element in achieving a successful result and a beautiful case. When scouring the mirror use a steady pressure and only scour once. Snap the glass mirror off immediately after scouring with both hands.

7 If you re only going to use a mirror and do not want the mirror elevated you may skip the next dissertation and go directly to construction of the Acrylic Case Cover on page 10. BASE SELECTION IDEAS AND OPTIONS You can construct a base that an Acrylic Cover fits down over, fits into or one that includes or doesn t include a mirror. The picture above display s the types of bases we are discussing. As you can see the base to the left has a base with mirror. The cover would fit directly down and over the wood base. The middle unit has a frame structure around the base. This unit can or can not include the mirror. This configuration allows the cover to fit directly into unit and would be used more for displaying pottery or larger objects. The picture to the right is the base only and again the cover fits down over the unit. While viewing the unfinished base units above remember how important it will be to take into consideration the colors of the objects being displayed and finding a complementary color or natural stain for the base unit. Natural wood or color of the display case base should be a mental process under review from the first day of your project. Now that I have had my say lets get started with the physical construction of this unit.

8 CONSTRUCTION OF A BASE MOUNT FOR THE COVER ( OPTIONAL ) The most important step in building any thing is not to rush the project. Because every time you do you will find yourself doing that particular step over. This is extremely important when it comes to the Base. The base has to be cut to a perfect square or rectangle. A fraction of an inch misalignment in the base dimensions will cause the acrylic case cover (yet to be made) not to fit down over this unit. Misalignments can not be corrected in the construction of your acrylic cover. The first picture shows the best way to square-up the wood for your Base. I am using a ¾ inch cabinet grade oak plywood. You should use what your comfortable with or have available. The second photograph is the trimming of the base on my fifty year old table saw. Remember that one of the options you have available is the inclusion of ledge that the acrylic case cover will fit into. This is accomplished by attaching the 1 and ½ inch Colonial Door Stop Molding to the ¾ inch base.

9 To do this cut one corner of your Base molding at a forty five degree angle and fit it to the base. Then mark the other end of the molding for the forty five degree cut. Be sure to always to position your molding (flush to the side) in the miter box each time you cut. Do one side of the base at a time and attach the molding with a good wood glue and finishing nails. By doing this way you will be able to get exact measurements for molding and a custom fit at each Conner. Be sure that the bottom of the molding is flush with the bottom of the base. The top of the molding will extend about ½ inch above the top of the base. By using finishing nails with glue you do not have wait each time for the glue to dry before doing the next side of the base. Counter sink the finish nails placed in the base molding and fill with a good wood fill. Sand the molding around the base and let dry over night.

10 For construction of the base with a mirror the squaring-up of the wood hasn t changed. Just don t try to fit the base to a previously cut mirror. Mirrors don t trim-up or clean-up easily. One item to remember is that you will want to glue the mirror to the base after the base has been stained or painted. The mirror is an option if you want to use it. Another professional look you can give your case is the application of a green or black felt to the bottom of the base. This will protect any furniture from being scratched the case sits on. The felt can be obtained in any Wal Mart or Fabric Store and for only a couple of dollars and you will have plenty left over for future projects. Apply a spray glue to the bottom of your base and apply a piece of the felt. Trim with scissors and your done.

11 CUTTING ACRYLIC SHEETS MEASURE AND SCORE The first thing you want to do is measure the Base area you want the Acrylic to cover. Be sure you include the thickness of the sheets when laying out the measurements for the sides and top of the cover. Then set up your work bench as shown in the first and second pictures. After you have got the measurements you need for your case cover you need to Scribe the acrylic as depicted in the third picture. Draw a line on the protective paper where the material is to be cut. Using a straight edge. Place the point of the blade at the edge of the material, apply firm steady pressure and draw the blade across the full width of the sheet. Use six or eight passes for to sheet thickness material and up to ten to twenty passes for sheets. Leave protective paper on. Minimum cutting distances from the edge is1 ½. To cut narrow widths use more passes, cutting almost through the sheet.

12 BREAKING OR SNAPPING OFF AN ACRYLIC SHEET Place the scribe line face up over the edge of the work bench or table as seen the first picture. I found that a ¼ dowel works great under the scribe line for breaking off the sheet. For longer lengths of material hold the sheet with one hand and apply gentle downward pressure with the other. Your hands should be adjacent to each other and move progressively back as the break moves along the scribe line. A lighting sanding may be in order with a sanding block using P220 sanding paper. Always keep the sanding block perpendicular to the cut edge of the acrylic sheet. When measuring the parts to be cut always align them to the base and make sure that opposite ends of the acrylic cover are cut the same way to one another and fit their adjoining sides in the same manner. Before cutting any material always practice with scrap material first.

13 THE USE OF GLUES OR CHEMICALS FOR BONDING There are several bonding agents available for plastics and acrylic covers and can be purchased at stores that sell the sheets of material. However, my favorite is Methylene Chloride also called Dichloromethane or Di-clo. It is often sold as the main component of plastic welding adhesives and is used extensively in the model-making industry for joining plastic components together. CAUTION: BE SURE TO READ ALL THE PRECAUTIONS AND KEEP THIS MATERIAL OUT OF THE HANDS OF CHLIDREN. My recommendation is to take a few small pieces of scrap material and practice bonding them together. There is no value gained by charging ahead and making a mess of your perfectly cut sheets of material until you have mastered the tricks of bonding them together. This is a tenfold time saver. I have included a couple of pictures of the use of scrap material to familiarize your self with the process. The syringes can be picked up at any drug store. They are excellent for use with Methylene Chloride. Be sure to only apply glue on the adjoining joint. As you will see the bonding agent slightly melts the acrylic creating a durable bond. There are two ways to hold the parts together over night while they dry. Masking Tape, Clamps or a combination of both. You make this determination as a result of your requirements and what works for you. Be sure to line up each side and let them dry. Do not forget to wipe off any excess glue immediately.

14 FINAL CLEANINGAND ASSEMBLY Now you can remove the protective sheets of paper over the acrylic. Use a mild soap or detergent in lukewarm water to clean the surfaces if needed. Don t use brushes, abrasive cleaners or squeegees. A soft cloth or sponge is perfect for the final wipe down of your case. Next is to make sure to mate your base to the cover and presto a beautiful case built to your specifications and needs not a One Model Fits All purchased on the internet. You can also purchase acrylic cleaner to remove scratches without staining the windows of your case.

15 THE AUTHORS CONSTRUCTION SECRETS 1. The only bonding agent (glue) that I use is Methylene Chloride. I keep it in a small refrigerator in my work shop. It is kept in a glass bottle and marked with all required labels. You can purchase it on the internet or in a large hobby store. Handel it with care and read all the manufactures warning label. It is also called Dichloromethane or Di-clo. 2. To save a lot of time you can buy pre-cut sheets of plastic or acrylic at Home Depot. DO NOT use a non-glare material. It is rather tacky looking for a display case as shown in the following photo. I didn t even bother to finish the case on the left in favor of just building a base for this old Indian pot. Another solution for you is to just buy a plastic cover on the internet and build a simple base as shown in picture, on the right, for the cover to fit into. 3. When gluing two opposite sides of the acrylic sheets as shown in the first picture, on the next page, roll back the paper covering and hold it in place with small strips of tape. After applying the bonding agent to the two adjacent sides immediately wipe off any excess glue and press the sides together as shown in the second photograph. Note the use of a triangle to assure a perpendicular angle to the other sheet. Also be sure that all the edges line up and are flush with one another and let it dry.

16 Repeat the process for the next two sides as shown in the photo below. Always check that the parts are flush with one another. This becomes very important when you attach the cover sheet. Lightly sand only the edge of the acrylic sheet that is to be glued. It is necessary to make two passes with the syringe carefully applying the mthylene chloride. Again practice with your syringe and water to get the technique down so you don t waste material. Then practice with the chemical on scrap acrylic. Apply glue to only one edge of your material as seen in the first photo. Lie the top of your case down against the work bench. This will help in achieving a flat top surface to mount the last part of the cover. Bond the top on your case cover in the same manner you prepared your other sides. Only this time you will have more area to cover with the glue. Don t rush even if you have to make three passes with the glue. Preposition your tape to hold the sides in place.

17 The two cases shown on this page were actually constructed while writing this book. The above has a collection of hand carved wooden sailors. The lobster trap I picked up in Maine in c1946. All are dust collectors that hang around our homes. They eventually get lost or discarded but always have an intrinsic value to some family member. The Junkers 52 is an extreme detail metal model I found in Germany in c1993. It could be lost or broken if not protected. I hope you enjoyed our Build Your Own book as more will be coming out soon.

18 Download your FREE copy of my ebook Model Ship Fun for Kids and GrandParents These and more ebooks you can find at: Also on sale NOW! Build Your Own Model Ship Case - What you are getting in this book is a complete set of simple step-by- step instructions, photo's and sketches on how to build your own display case with limited tools and budget. Not to mention the satisfaction of saying "I built this myself".

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