SCANNING INSTRUCTIONS: PLEASE READ CAREFULLY, BEFORE ASKING FOR HELP FROM TECHS!

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1 *Revised Instructions: 10/09 by Professor Jaimie Lyle Gordon * Students, I hope these instructions will help you sort out some of the confusion and complexity of the scanning and printing procedures, however, please follow any new equipment or software modifications as recommended by photo lab tech staff if applicable. ALSO, PLEASE NOTE, NO FOOD OR BEVERAGES ALLOWED IN THE DIGITAL ROOM. Please pay attention to additional signage regarding digital lab rules. Laguardia CC Photo Lab Scanning & Printing Instructions: Please follow these guidelines for scanning b/w 35 film negatives, and making a print from a b/w negative file. For scanning color film, there will be some modifications to these settings. For printing color image files, there will be some modification to the printer settings. Directions below are specifically for the Microtek 1900 scanner for scanning, and the Epson Stylus Pro 4800 for printing. If using the Epson or Nikon Scanner, or another Epson Printer, you will need to modify some of your settings due to different software. Try your best to follow the same recommended settings, although there might be different menu options, or the order of settings might appear differently. Try to take notes of what you did, if you are on different equipment than described below, if you run into trouble. Intro students are being asked to process their b/w film in the photo lab, and then scan their b/w negatives as high resolution files to be used in your book project, as well as learning how to make high quality inkjet prints. Please consider these instructions as an aid to help familiarize you with the procedures of the Digital Lab, by giving you an introduction in basic adjustment settings. I recommend that you do simple alterations to your negative at the scanning stage if necessary to obtain a scan with adequate detail information. However, for more involved problems that require more precise adjustments, I suggest that you do these corrections in Photoshop once you have your saved digital file. Remember the importance of exposing and developing your film properly as explained in class, so you will be working with good quality negatives. Most importantly, remember that you will be saving your scans in the TIFF file format, not the jpeg format. Any editing in photoshop should always be in tiff or psd if you are using layers. Do not edit JPEG s in photoshop as every time you open and close a jpeg the quality deteriorates. However, you will need to resave a version of your final file as a JPEG if you will be using it for your blurb book, as blurb booksmart only works with jpeg files. You will still be creating a 300 DPI image for the book, but it will be in JPEG format, not TIFF. So, if you have a psd or a tiff file you worked with in Photoshop, make sure that you save another copy as a JPEG at 300 dpi for your book project to upload. SCANNING INSTRUCTIONS: PLEASE READ CAREFULLY, BEFORE ASKING FOR HELP FROM TECHS! Materials Needed: -White Cotton Gloves-you will need white cotton gloves for handling your negatives and operating the scanner. You can buy white gloves at B&H Photo, Some.99 cent stores, and as well as many other sources. Google if necessary. -AntiStatic Cloth available at K&M Camera or B&H Photo about $6 -FlashDrive or Portable HD device to save your images onto. The photo lab deletes all student image files daily from the computers, so make sure you save your scans and edited images.

2 HANDLING NG THE NEGATIVES AND LOADING THEM INTO THE SCANNER: 1. You need to go to the lab equipment checkout with your student ID and ask for a negative holder for the scanner that you will be using. All the scanners are marked with a number, so ask for the corresponding negative holder for that scanner. You will ask for a 35 mm film holder, unless you are using 120 film or sheet film. Either buy your own antistatic cloth, or see if the lab has one to borrow. It s always a good idea to have your own, they are about $6 MAKE SURE THAT THE SCANNER YOU ARE USING AND THE COMPUTER YOU ARE USING ARE TURNED ON!!! 2. Put your white gloves on, and wear them while handling your negatives and using the scanner. Wipe your negative with antistatic cloth before it goes in holder. Just slide neg through the cloth, so both sides wipe at once. Once it s in holder, you could spritz at about 10 away some canned air on it, but do not tilt the can, and never spray the canned air into the scanner. 3. You can do several negative strips at a time, or one at a time. You are going to put your negatives into the negative holder EMULSION SIDE UP FOR THE MICROTEK SCANNERS (that is the dull side facing up-shiny side acetate base down) and you will put them in the holder with the numbers on the holder facing up. For the Epson scanners, it should be emulsion side up as well. For Nikon Scanner, emulsion side down. Putting the negative into the holder is a bit tricky, because there are dividers in between each frame section which need to be lined up exactly on the frame divisions on your negative strip. The best way to line this up, is to put it slightly off the alignment of the dividers, and then when you close the latch, the strip will shift slightly, and it should be possible to just toggle it slightly to get it just right. Double check by holding it up to the light, and making sure the dividers are not interfering with the image area. It is also VERY IMPORTANT to make sure the other closing doors on the other strip sections are closed because they can flap open when inserting the holder into the scanner and get the holder stuck in the scanner. This is a real pain for the lab techs to remove and could damage your negatives. So, go slow, and be careful and precise. 4. Pull out the scanner drawer, and put the negative holder number markings on the holder facing up (remember your negatives are emulsion side facing up unless you re using the nikon scanner) inside. 5. LAUNCHING THE SILVERFAST AI SCANNING SOFTWARE & SETTINGS: 6. Now, you are ready to begin scanning, and you will use the computer directly next to the scanner. If you unfamiliar with a MAC computer, you can use icons on the dock that appear on the bottom of the screen or you can use the search icon to far right in top menu bar. The scanning software you will be using is called SilverFast Ai, look for the SF launcher icon in the icon menu on bottom of screen center area. Click on the SF Launcher, and you will now be in the Silverfast scanning software once it s opened. 7. You will need to select these settings before you do a pre-scan scan. For b/w negative film, these are the best recommended settings. If you see previous scans on screen, and a second selection marquee, then drag it to the red trashcan on tool menu to the left, otherwise, you will need to trash it later, and then reset your selections. You can also get rid of previous scan on your screen by pressing the small delete button on your keyboard, not the one that is in the backspace position. Make sure you click CONTINUE on the SILVERFAST AI window menu the should appear.

3 In the menu, under the GENERAL tab, set the following: DEVICE: Microtek Scanmaker I900 SCAN MODE: 1 or 2 negative strips at a time, then choose NORMAL, for multiple strips of negatives, more than 2 negative strips, then choose BATCH MODE. ORIGINAL: Pos/Neg: Frame-set: Choose TRANSPARENCY Choose Negative Choose SAVE There is an options button under general tab, don t worry about going into this and setting anything, the default settings should work fine for you. In the menu, under the FRAME tab SCANTYPE: Choose either Bit, or 16 Bit Grayscale We did a test scanning a b/w negative at both, made prints on same paper and compared. It seemed like the resolution and tonal appearance of the 16 Bit was certainly as adequate (it gives you 256 shades of gray) as the bit. Do not choose HDR unless you are using this 3 sequence feature on your DSLR. FILTER: SETTING: Choose NONE Choose SAVE IMAGETYPE: Choose Standard or you can choose more specific if you want. NAME: leave this blank OUPUT SIZE: There is a horizontal and vertical setting, if you are working on a horizontal image then put the largest number into the horizontal setting, if you are working on a vertical image than put the largest number into the vertical setting. EX: If you plan on making 16x20 inches prints on a horizontal image, then set the horizontal setting at 20, and vertical setting at 16. The larger you make the output size, the larger the file size will become. If you will not be making prints larger than 11x14, then make the largest dimension for output at 14. Make sure the little locks are down, so the image doesn t proportionately auto-scale the image. A BRIEF EXPLANATION ABOUT SCANNING OUTPUT AND INPUT SIZE: There has been some confusion in the lab, and differing opinions about what these settings should be, so let me clarify the options for you, and the simplest solution to the difference in settings. There are two different approaches to determining the size of the scan that you need. One approach is if you are going to use the scan for a short term project, and the other approach is for a long term project. For our book project use, or inkjet printing use, we are dealing with a printing out resolution that needs to be 300 DPI. Remember our discussion in class about resolution and file size. The higher the resolution, the better the quality, and the larger the file size. It is always better to

4 photograph and scan at a higher resolution, if you will be using the digital file for both print and web use ( dpi) use. You can always save lower resolution from a higher res file, but you wouldn t want to bump a lower res file up to a higher res file. My prior classes have been scanning using the output resolution method, and have come up with scans that were of high quality and reproduced well for the book project. You might want to try it both ways and see if you notice a significant difference in quality. Using the output resolution is considered the short term approach, and since most of you will be making books that will not be bigger than 8x11, it would be a safe estimate to use an output resolution size of 11x14 inches and 300 DPI. Make sure that you put the longest side of your image to the 14. For example, if your neg is a vertical shot, make sure the vertical measurement is 14 and the horizontal is 11. If your neg is a horizontal shot, make sure the horizontal measurement is 14 and the vertical is 11. Make sure the little locks on the measurement are in the locked position, or the image will distort and scale to a different measurement. Since you know how these images are going to be used, then the short approach should be adequate for your needs. The long term approach is different because it uses the scanner s input resolution (sampling rate) and the size of the original to determine the appropriate scan size. You can also figure out the resolution that you would want to scan this way, also based on what you think the largest size print you would eventually reproduce the image. For example, if you were scanning a 35mm b/w negative and were not going to make a print larger than 11x14 then scanning at 1600 DPI should be fine. But, if you were going to make larger than 11x14 prints, then it would be best to scan at 3200 DPI. Just remember, the higher the DPI setting, the longer the scanning process takes and the larger the file it creates. The long term approach (input resolution), is best for archiving valuable images, if there is going to be a large investment in post production or retouching, or if an image might be reproduced at many different sizes. If you are going to use the input approach for your books, then set the resolution DPI at 1600 (your books will be under 11x14) and the neg should set its size automatically. Just make sure that the print size that you later create your files from for your book, will be at 300 DPI and the print size will fit into the format of your book. If you are following the output settings as stated here, then remember, most of your pictures will be scaled down slightly will you drop them into your book template pages. I will explain this in class, as you begin to design your books. DPI: Set the DPI at 300 DPI. It s always better to make higher resolution scans, because you can always save lower res. scans later. In the menu, under the DENSITOMETER tab Ignore this, don t worry about anything here, leave at the default settings. PRE-SCAN: NEXT, CLICK PRESCAN, this will scan the entire strip or strips that you loaded. Once you see the strip (s) up on your screen, you will see the selection marquee (the dotted line rectangle). If there

5 were previous scans not yours on screen, and secondary marquee, and you didn t put drag it to the red trashcan in the tool menu on left, then do it now. You will have to redo your settings, because it will default back if you didn t get rid of that other marquee. Every time you make a new marquee selection, the FRAME menu converts back to default, so don t forget to change it. Pull the marquee over the image(s) you are scanning and make sure you just have the image, not the surrounding separation between the negs (unless you want to include the frame# info for framing purposes) FILM TYPE & EXPOSURE POPUP BOX Whether you start with a new marquee, or you had only one previously, make sure you recheck your settings under the FRAME tab, and when the FILM TYPE & EXPOSURE POP UP BOX opens, set the following: For whatever b/w film type you are scanning, try to find the corresponding match in the selection. If there isn t one, for example, Fuji Neopan 400, choose Ilford HP5 instead. Leave the exposure setting alone, the default is set at NEXT, in the top of the FILM TYPE/EXPOSURE POP UP BOX, you will see some more icon tools. The first one is a magnification tool, (you can click on this to see the image larger if you are making corrections) the second one is a spiral looking shape. Use this to adjust highlight, shadow, and midtones. You just click it once and it corrects automatically. It doesn t do anything further if you keep clicking it. Remember, we are still in the prescan mode. The 3 rd shape looks like a mountain range, this is the Histogram levels. The Next is Gradation curves. If you feel your negative could benefit from these tools, you can use them. However, it is better to do adjustments to your image within photoshop, until you are more familiar with these tonal value tools, and using them as a shortcut at the scanning stage. Make sure you check the Silverfast AI window and your output size settings. Make sure everything is set correctly. SCAN: Next, once you have all your settings the way you want, click SCAN. This may take a few minutes depending on the file size. Once your scanned file is up on the screen, the save window will open. You should save it to a folder on the desktop, and then when you re done with all your scanning, drag this folder to copy to your flashdrive that you have inserted into the usb of computer. The scans save faster going to the desktop then saving directly to your flashdrive. Just remember that the lab throws away all files on the desktop at the end of each day. You cannot store or leave your files there, so don t forget to bring a flashdrive to save your images. You will see that there are editing only computer editing stations, scanner/computer and printer/computer combination stations in lab, so you will always need a flashdrive to bring your files back and forth depending on what you re doing. SAVING YOUR FILE: When you save your file, you want to save it as a.tif. If you are going to edit your file in photoshop, always make sure you are working on a.tif file and not a jpeg, a jpeg will degrade every time it is edited and reopened. If you need to create a jpeg for webuse, then always save your master scan copy as a tif file and an additional file as a jpeg if you need it. SAFELY REMOVE YOUR FLASHDRIVE!!! ***BEFORE YOU REMOVE YOUR FLASHDRIVE MAKE SURE YOU SAFELY REMOVE IT or YOUR FILE COULD CORRUPT. JUST HIGHLIGHT THE ICON FOR YOUR FLASHDRIVE AND THE SECONDARY ICON WHICH GENERALLY REFERS TO THE SOFTWARE, AND DRAG IT DOWN TO THE TRASH EJECT ICON ON ICON DOCK ON BOTTOM OF SCREEN, and THEN YOU CAN SAFELY REMOVE FLASH DRIVE. **

6 PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS: You will need to be at one of the computers attached to the printers. One printer is for matt paper, and the other one is for lustre and glossy paper. Make sure the printer you are using is powered on, and it says ready on readout. If it says something else, you must go to the lab equipment checkout and ask for help. Materials Needed: Inkjet Printing Paper-the lab only allows you to use Epson or Inkpress brand, and only Glossy, Matt, or Lustre Surface. You can purchase paper at either K&M Camera or B&H photo, as well as other sources. Size is up to you, but best to start with 8x10 or 8.5 x 11 until you get some experience. LOADING PAPER INTO PRINTER: Insert your paper into the printer surface side facing down. Load it to the far right corner, and move paper guide under the paper and properly aligned against the edge, but not too tight, or your paper will bend. PHOTOSHOP PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS: Insert your flashdrive with your file into the usb on computer. Launch photoshop, look for the icon in the bottom selection on screen, or do a search with icon on top right corner of window. Open up your file. You could also just drag your file into the PS icon as well to open it. Once you are in Photoshop and your file is open on your screen, Go to top menu, and select: FILE : PRINT Follow settings below for the printer dialog box. Printer Settings: ALL OF THESE STEPS MUST BE DONE IN ORDER! PRINTER: STYLUS PRO 4800 (this should be the default) PAGE SETUP: Paper Size enter the paper size you are using, do not get confused between the size of your file that you scanned to (image size), you are just entering the paper size that you inserted into printer. So, if you put a 8x10 piece of paper into printer, enter 8x10 inches. Orientation: Vertical, Horizontal (margin bigger on bottom), Horizontal (margin bigger on top) Choose one of the above. If your image is vertical, choose vertical if horizontal, choose horizontal with margin bigger on bottom. SCALE: Leave this at 100%. Your image will be scaled automatically to fit, we will set that in another menu. Remember you may have scanned your image at 11x14 (or proportionately to whatever corresponds with larger dimension your image might be 9.5 x 14) So, it will scale to fit the paper, and there is no loss of quality, when going bigger to smaller. Quality loss happens when going from smaller to larger. If the printer software is different because you re on a different model printer, you might have to select scale to media at this point. CENTER IMAGE: SELECT THIS SCALE TO FIT MEDIA: SELECT THIS You will see black bounding box as default, it does not really put a black line around your image, it is only for viewing. MATCH PRINT COLORS: SELECT THIS

7 Next, you will set the COLOR MANAGEMENT SETTINGS as follows: DEFAULT DOC: ADOBE RGB (leave this, the printer works on RBG not CYMK) PHOTOSHOP MANAGES COLOR (leave this selected lected,, do not let the printer interpolate the color) PRINTER PROFILE: You need to select your paper from these selections below. For Lustre paper, select: Pro 4800 PLPP250 (the 250 refers to the paper weight) For Glossy paper, select: Pro 4800 PGPP250 For Matt (Enhanced) select: Pro 4800EMP.MK RENDERING INTENT: SELECT: PERCEPTUAL (but you can play around with this setting, too) This automatically selects BLACK POINT SELECTION, so leave it selected. Proof SetupS etup- leave this at default Then click PRINT, and GET READY TO DO MORE SETTINGS! PRINTER: Select STYLUS PRO 4800 PRESETS: Select STANDARD COPIES & PAGES: you change this to Print Settings PAGE SETUP: Choose Sheet, paper tray MEDIA TYPE: Select paper r you have. For ex: Enhanced Matt Paper Or Glossy Premium Glossy Photo Paper 250, Lustre Lustre Photo Paper 250. COLOR: Select COLOR, even though your file may be b/w. You may have some sort of choice at this point for color toning, select neutral for b/w, unless you are trying something different. MODE: SELECT ADVANCED SETTINGS PRINT QUALITY: Choose SUPERFINE 1440 DPI (do not get confused between the dpi of your image and the dpi of the printer.) HI SPEED: MAKE SURE THIS IS NOT SELECTED, do not check this box. Only if you were making digital contact prints should you use hi speed. You do not need to save any of these screens, it does it for you. Now, you need to go back to PRINT SETTINGS, and you need to click PRINTER COLOR MANAGEMENT. You now need to click the OFF selection for NO COLOR ADJUSTMENT. You need to do this whether your file is b/w neg or color. MAKE SURE YOU DO ALL OF THESE STEPS IN ORDER, FIRST THE PRINT SETTINGS and THEN THE COLOR MANAGEMENT. Then you can finally click, PRINT, and hope for the best!