Textiles: Secret Life of Fabrics

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Julian Caldwell
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1 Instructed by Jade Carlin Textiles: Secret Life of Fabrics Week Three: Wovens

2 Week 3 Woven Fabrics

3 History Hemp cloth from 7000 BC found in Turkey and from 9000 BC found in Peru, though some believe the technology existed in the Paleolithic era, 27,000 years ago, based on impressions found in clay.

Terminology Selvage - parallel to lengthwise grain; the tightly woven edges of the fabric Lengthwise - parallel to the selvage; stronger threads (warp threads) Crosswise -

4 Terminology Selvage - parallel to lengthwise grain; the tightly woven edges of the fabric Lengthwise - parallel to the selvage; stronger threads (warp threads) Crosswise - at right angle to the lengthwise threads; perpendicular to the selvage (weft threads) Bias - diagonal angle; runs at a 45- degree angle to the selvage edge; provides stretch

6 General Characteristics of Wovens Strong and easy to sew Suggested for beginners to use Woven fabric frays unless hemmed or treated with pinking shears. Woven fabric is more elastic as well as more fluid in the bias direction, compared to the on-grain direction. Woven fabric only stretches on the bias unless it is made from elastic fibers. This property facilitates garments and garment details that require extra elasticity or drapability or flexibility, such as bias-cut skirts and dresses, neckties, piping trims and decorations, bound seams, etc.

7 Construction Weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right angles to make a fabric. A loom is used to weave fabric. Woven fabrics are composed of two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft. The vertical yarns or warp yarns are connected to the loom. The warp yarns run the length of the fabric. Cloth is created by weaving the warp and the weft over and under one another. The manner in which the warp and weft are woven over and under one another determines the weave of the fabric. The weft yarns, also called the fill, run perpendicular to the warp yarns. Lengthwise or warp yarns are the strongest. Go up and down the body in clothing Crosswise or filling yarns are weaker. Have more stretch, so go across the body in clothing

8 Woven fabrics are produced by the interlacing of warp (0 ) fibres and weft (90 ) fibres in a regular pattern or weave style. The fabric's integrity is maintained by the mechanical interlocking of the fibres. Drape (the ability of a fabric to conform to a complex surface), surface smoothness and stability of a fabric are controlled primarily by the weave style.

13 You Tube old weaving mill

14 Weave Styles Plain, Basket, Twill, Satin, Leno, Jacquard

16 Lorem Ipsum Dolor

17 Plain Weave

Construction Plain weave is a simple over-under pattern. It can be identified by its checkered appearance. Each warp fibre passes alternately under and over each weft fibre.

18 Construction Plain weave is a simple over-under pattern. It can be identified by its checkered appearance. Each warp fibre passes alternately under and over each weft fibre. The fabric is symmetrical, with good stability and reasonable porosity. However, it is the most difficult of the weaves to drape, and the high level of fibre crimp imparts relatively low mechanical properties compared with the other weave styles. With large fibres (high tex) this weave style gives excessive crimp and therefore it tends not to be used for very heavy fabrics.

19 Characteristics P Most simple and most common type of construction P Inexpensive to produce, durable P Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes P It is snag resistant. P It wrinkles. P It has lower tear strength.

20 Examples Organza Chiffon Poplin Taffeta Cotton calicos Cheesecloth Gingham Percale Voile Chambray Grosgrain! Muslin

21 Basket Weave

22 Characteristics A variation of the plain weave Usually basket or checkerboard pattern Contrasting colors are often used Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave

23 Construction Basket Weave is a variation of plain weave. It is a simple over-under pattern created with an equal number of warp and weft yarns woven as a group. Basket weave fabrics, like plain weave fabrics, also have a checkered appearance. Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings Common Fabrics: Monks cloth, oxford Household Uses: Wall hangings, pillows

24 Twill Weave

25 Construction Method of Construction: A yarn passes or floats over one or more yarns in the same direction Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left

26 Characteristics A twill weave can be identified by its diagonal lines. The diagonal rib created by the stair-step of the twill weave is called a wale Creates a diagonal, chevron, houndstooth, corkscrew, or other design The design is enhanced with colored yarn Is strong and may develop a shineit is durable and heavier. It is wrinkle resistant. It is resistant to showing soil and soiling. It is more pliable drape and hand than plain weave

27 Examples and Common Uses.Examples of twill weave fabrics: Denim Chino Herringbone Houndstooth Drill Gabardine Serge Tweed

28 Denim 3/1 Twill

30 Satin Weave

Construction Satin weave is characterized by long floats of warp yarn. The warp yarn goes over four weft yarns before being woven under a single weft yarn. There is a simple 4 over, 1 under pattern.

31 Construction Satin weave is characterized by long floats of warp yarn. The warp yarn goes over four weft yarns before being woven under a single weft yarn. There is a simple 4 over, 1 under pattern. This pattern creates long floats of warp yarn that create a soft hand and light-reflecting sheen. Satin fabric is made from long filament fibers in either polyester or silk. When a satin weave is used on a fiber with a short staple, such as cotton, it is referred to as sateen.

32 Characteristics Smooth, soft luster Excellent drapability Floats snag easily It is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface. The surface slides easily for linings. Not durable floats tend to break or snag

33 Leno Weave

34 Construction Method of Construction: A pair of warp threads are passed over and under the filling yarns in a figure 8 or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern

35 Characteristics A mesh-like fabric Stable and breathable

36 Jacquard Weave

Construction Jacquard weaving is done on a specialized loom called a Jacquard loom. The Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom that was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801.

37 Construction Jacquard weaving is done on a specialized loom called a Jacquard loom. The Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom that was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in The jacquard loom simplifies the process of weaving complicated textile patterns with its punch card system. Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating intricate designs Jacquard weave is an extremely complex fabric that uses its own specific loom. It uses CAM (Computer Aided Manufacture) to produce the end piece. Therefore, this method is expensive but the end product is of a high quality.

38 Characteristics Yarns woven into unlimited designs, often intricate, multicolor effect Expensive, but the design doesn't fade or wear out Durability depends on the fiber used Fabrics created using jacquard weaving: Brocade Damask Tapestry

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40 Pile Fabrics Can be cut or uncut

Uncut Pile Loops are possible on both sides of fabric Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive Can snag if loops are caught Method of Construction: Generally a plain or twill weave with a third

41 Uncut Pile Loops are possible on both sides of fabric Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive Can snag if loops are caught Method of Construction: Generally a plain or twill weave with a third dimension--additional warp yarn or filling yarn is introduced into the basic structure and forms a loop at regular intervals Common Fabrics: Frieze, terry cloth Household Uses: Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs

42 Cut Pile Soft and warm, resilient, absorbent May have a nap that must be matched May be expensive and need professional cleaning Method of Construction: Common Fabrics: Corduroy, velvet, velveteen Household uses: Upholstery, stage draperies Similar to uncut pile, but loops have been cut

Plain P Most simple and most common type of construction P Inexpensive to produce, durable P Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other fi

WEAVES Plain P Most simple and most common type of construction P Inexpensive to produce, durable P Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes < Each filling yarn goes alternately