DISSERTATION PROJECT REPORT A STUDY ON BANANA FIBRE CLOTHING

Transcription

1 1 DISSERTATION PROJECT REPORT A STUDY ON BANANA FIBRE CLOTHING MENTOR: Dr.Chet Ram Meena ADVISOR: Mr. Prof. Nitin Kulkarni SUBMITTED BY: MANOGNA AVUNOORI MD/15/220 MASTERS OF DESIGN SPACE NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI 2017

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3 3 CERTIFICATE FROM FACULTY MEMBER REGARDING COMPLETION OF WORK This is to certify that Ms. MANOGNA AVUNOORI has completed the Graduation Project. Report on the topic A STUDY ON BANANA FIBRE CLOTHING under myguidance. He is here by allowed to participate in the internal and external Jury for the graduation project. Date - 23/05/2017 Dr CHET RAM MEENA Assistant Professor Department of Textile Design NIFT, Mumbai

4 4 DECLARATION I hereby declare that this project report on A STUDY ON BANANA FIBRE CLOTHING is my original work. I declare that all the facts and figureswhich have been included in the report which is an inevitable part of the Graduation Project for completing my Masters of Design Space, Mumbai, are all true to the best of my knowledge. Date: 23/05/2017 MANOGNA AVUNOORI Masters of Design Space NIFT, Mumbai

5 5 ABSTRACT The popularity of Sustainable clothing has increased over the passing years, from fashion industry to textile and clothing retail market consumers and manufacturers are considering sustainable clothing designs on every day basis.india is the world's largest banana producer with an annual output of 24.8 milliontonnes followed by China, Philippines, Ecuador and Brazil. India accounts for 22 per cent of the global banana production. Apart from providing textiles, banana fibre production provides employment opportunities to thousands of poor people in India. Bananas are harvested two to four times a year and the stems are usually cut and thrown away as waste. Banana fibre is also a major substitute to the pulp industry. My research started to understand and investigate factors influencing the expansion of banana fibre clothing and products developed from waste of banana plants which is bio degradable. My question took the shape of my research and now after months of secondary data collection, I moved on to Primary data collection. After interviewing various people I realised the current production value of banana fibre clothing is expensive for retail market and realised a questionnaire survey need to be conductedto understand the consumer s knowledge about banana fibre clothing and come up with design intervention.

6 6 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to my mentor Dr CHET RAM MEENA sir and advisor Mr NITIN KULKARNI sir for their exemplary guidance, Monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of this report. The blessing, help and guidance given by them time to time were very encouraging. I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to Mr. Sekar (Head of Anakaputhurweaver s association) and Mr. Murali Krishnan (ECO GREEN UNIT Business head) for the valuable guidance provided by them. I am grateful for their cooperation during the period of my project. I thank NIFT, Mumbai for giving me this opportunity to intern and gain an experience that I will value for life long..

7 7 TABLE OF CONTENT CHAPTER NO TITLE PAGE NO 1 INTRODUCTION OF STUDY BRIEF 1.2 OBJECTIVES 1.3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 1.4 SIGNIFICANCE OF RESEARCH 1.5 HYPOTHESIS 1.6 LIMITATIONS INTRODUCTION OF BANANA FIBRE ORIGIN AND HISTORY 3 REVIEW OF LITERATURE BANANA FIBRE 3.2 TYPES OF FIBER CHARACTERISTICS OF BANANA FIBRE PROPERTIES OF BANANA FIBRES 4.3 BANANA VARIETIES GROWN IN DIFFERENT STATES OF INDIA

8 EXTRACTION OF BANANA FIBRE JAPANESE METHOD NEPALESE METHOD BANANA FIBER EXTRACTION PROCESSING, YARN SPINNING & WEAVING WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESS 6.3. DYEING OF BANANA FIBRES 6.4. PRODUCTS AVAIBLE IN MARKET 7 GOVERNMENT OF GUJRAT PROJECT ON BANANA FIBRE EXTRACTION AND TEXTILES PRODUCTION UNIT- Jan PRIMARY RESEARCH 8.1. RESEARCH DESIGN AND METHODOLOGY RESEARCH DESIGN RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 27 9 INTERVIEWS ANALYSIS LEARNING OUT COME 46

9 9 13 DESIGN INTERVENTION APPENDIX BIBLIOGRAPHY 51-53

10 10 TABLE OF PLATES PLATE NO DESCRIPTION PAGE NO 1 Lord Rama and Sita from Ramayana 3 2 Map of japan and Okinawa islands 4 3 Banana plant or plantain plant. 5 4 Coarse Fibre 6 5 Fine and smooth fibre 7 6 (a): banana fibre fabric silk look a like 7 (b): banana fibre fabric silk look a like 8 7 Spun yarn, weaving and Banana fabric Dyed Banana Coarse Fibre 20 LIST OF TABLES: TABLE NO DESCRIPTION PAGE NO 1 Properties of banana fibres 9 2 Types of yarn Spinning 10 3 C. Sekar Interview K. Murali Krishnan Interview 36 TABLE OF FIGURES

11 11 FIGURE NO DESCRIPTION PAGE NO 1 Process and extraction of banana fibre 12 2 scraping the banana Pseudo stem 13 3 (a): Yarn brushing before starching 17 (b): Yarn brushing before starching 18 4 Sizing of yarns 18 5 Starching of the yarns 19 6 Mr. C weaving unit 31 7 Banana cotton silk saree cost-3800 INR 31 8 (a): Banana silk look alike fabric Cost: 2600 INR per meter 32 (b): Banana silk look alike fabric Cost: 2600 INR per meter 33 9 Mr Sekar pit loom setup (Weaving unit) (a): Insertion of weft and loaded loom ready to weave (b): Insertion of weft and loaded loom ready to weave K. Murali his desk Banana fibre extraction machine Banana fibre mat weaving machine Pie chart Pie chart Pie chart Pie chart 42

12 12 18 Pie chart Pie chart Pie chart Bar chart Pie chart List of names Label logo Label logo Label logo 3 49

13 13 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION OF STUDY 1.1. Brief: Banana is rightly called Kalpataru, a likening to an ancient fruit cultivated all over the world. India is the world's largest banana producer with an annual output of 24.8 million tonnes followed by China, Philippines, Ecuador and Brazil. India accounts for 22 per cent of the global banana production. Apart from providing textiles, banana fibre production provides employment opportunities to thousands of poor people in India. Bananas are harvested two to four times a year and the stems are usually cut and thrown away as waste. Banana fibre is also a major substitute to the pulp industry Objectives: To study and explore the products available in the market by banana fibre in the clothing. To study the factors affecting the commercial viability of banana fibre clothing and products in terms of retail market Research Methodology: SAMPLING UNIT age DATA COLLECTION-Interview and questionnaire 1.4. Significance of the research: To understand and investigate factors influencing the expansion of banana fibre clothing and products developed from waste of banana plants which is bio degradable.

14 Hypothesis: Banana clothing can replace cellulosic fibre. Banana clothing can increase the market for banana fibre products Limitations: Inappropriate Infrastructure and machines setup in India. Very much limited and small banana fibre manufacturing facilities in India and also access to the facilities is very complex.

15 15 CHAPTER Introduction of Banana Fibre: The usage of banana fibre for textile purposes predates written history. The evidence of this can be found in epics like Ramayana where Sita and Rama wore Naravastra clothes made from banana fibres Not only in India but also references of the history reveal that the banana fibre cloth was made around 13 th century in japan. Japan's currency, the Yen, is made out of banana fibre. They used to produce fibres of different softness andfineness that yield yarn and textile with different qualities for specific use in olden days extracted fibre was used for making rugs, ropes and for tying flowers. Plate 1: Lord Rama and Sita from Ramayana Philippines and japan are the countries using banana fibre on large scale for commercial banana fibre to japan, Singapore, East Asian countries. Demand for textiles and readymade garments is increasing in India with increase in population and spending power. According to article research it indicates that a billion tonnes of banana plant stems are wasted every year. According to the Philippine Textile Research

16 16 Institute, banana plantations in Philippines alone can generate more than 3,00,000 tonnes of fibre 2.2. ORIGIN OF BANANA FIBRE: References of the history reveal that the banana fibre cloth was made around 13 th century in japan. The Japanese word bashôfu literally means 'banana-fibre cloth'. Both the cloth and the clothing made from it are now considered important constituents of Okinawan identity. This special trait of Okinawan material culture was brought to attention by the Japanese Folk Craft Movement in the 1930s. After years of decline following World War II, the weaving and use of bashôfu saw a revival that accelerated after the return of Okinawa to Japan in 1972 and still continues. Although its origins and history had remained hidden Plate 2: Map of japan and Okinawa islands CHAPTER-3

17 17 Review of Literature 3.1. BANANA FIBRE: Banana plant or plantain plant not only gives the delicious fruit but it also provides textile fibre (musaccae), the banana fibre. Banana fibre is natural fibre. Stiffness and mechanical properties and high disposability and renewability. Moreover, they are recyclable and biodegradable. There has been lot of research on use of natural fibres in reinforcements. Banana fibre, a ligno-cellulosic fibre, obtained from the pseudo-stem of banana plant (Musa sepientum), is a bast fibre with relatively good mechanical properties. Banana plant is a large perennial herb with leaf sheaths that form pseudo stem. Its height can be feet ( meters) surrounding with 8-12 large leaves. The leaves are up to 9 feet long and 2 feet wide (2.7 meters and 0.61 meter). Banana plant is available throughout Thailand and Southeast Asian, India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Hawaii, and some Pacific islands. Plate 3: Banana plant or plantain plant.

18 TYPES OF BANANA FIBRE (TEXTILES): Quality of the fibre inside the stem varies: I. Inner fibres (fine, smooth, and natural shine) - smoothest textiles like kimonos and saris. II. Outer strands (coarse)-basket weaving and making handbags.. Plate4: Coarse Fibre

19 19 Plate 5: Fine and smooth fibre Plate 6 (a): banana fibre fabric silk look a like

20 20 Plate 6(b): banana fibre fabric silk look a like

21 21 CHAPTER CHARACTERISTICS OF BANANA FIBRES: Banana fibre has its own physical and chemical characteristics and many other properties that make it a fine quality fibre. Appearance of banana fibre is similar to the bamboo fibre and ramie fibre, but its fineness and spin ability is better than the two. The chemical composition of banana fibre is cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. It is highly strong fibre. It has smaller elongation. It has somewhat shiny appearance depending upon the extraction & spinning process. It is light weight. It has strong moisture absorption quality. It absorbs as well as releases moisture very fast. It is bio- degradable and has no negative effect on environment and thus can be categorized as eco-friendly fibre. Its average fineness is 2400Nm. It can be spun through almost all the methods of spinning including ring spinning, open-end spinning, bast fibre spinning, and semi-worsted spinning among others. 4.2.PROPERTIES OF BANANA FIBRES: Tenacity g/denier Fineness Moisture Regain 13.00% Elongation 6.54 Alco-ben Extractives 1.70% Total Cellulose 81.80% Alpha Cellulose 61.50% Residual Gum 41.90% Lignin 15.00% Table 1: Properties of banana fibres

22 22 Banana fibre is also blended with many different fibres to make ring spun yarns and open end spun yarns. The following table shows their count: Banana fibre ring spun yarn Description Count (Ne) 100 per cent banana fibre yarn per cent banana fibre 30 per cent combed cotton 50 per cent banana fibre 50 per cent combed cotton 30 per cent banana fibre 70 per cent combed cotton 70 per cent banana fibre 30 per cent modal 30 per cent banana fibre 30 per cent tencel 50 per cent banana fibre 50 per cent soybean fibre Banana fibre open-end spinning yarn Description Count (Ne) 100 per cent banana fibre yarn per cent banana fibre 30 per cent combed cotton 50 per cent banana fibre 50 per cent combed cotton 30 per cent banana fibre 70 per cent combed cotton 70 per cent banana fibre 30 per cent modal 30 per cent banana fibre 30 per cent tencel 50 per cent banana fibre 50 per cent Table 2: Types of yarn Spinning

23 BANANA FIBRE AND ITS USES: Banana leaves are used as bio-plates for serving food and the fruit and spadix can be consumed Innermost part of the stem, also edible, is used for medicinal purposes Banana plant, commonly found in hot tropical regions, grows easily without any chemicals or pesticides. These fibres are more sustainable and are completely biodegradable and do not use chemicals or pesticides to cultivate them. According to article research it indicates that a billion tonnes of banana plant stems are wasted every year. According to the Philippine Textile Research Institute, banana plantations in Philippines alone can generate more than 3,00,000 tonnes of fibre BANANA VARIETIES GROWN IN DIFFERENT STATES OF INDIA: Nendran-Kerala, Tamil Nadu Ney Poovan-Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Karnataka Red Banana-Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Kerala, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu Robusta-Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Bihar, Jharkhand, Kerala and Maharashtra Karpuravalli-Assam, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu Virupakshi-Himachal Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala and Tamil Nadu Rasthali-Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Assam and Mizoram

24 24 CHAPTER Extraction of banana fibre: The processes for making yarn from banana fibres vary from region to region. Most popular methods among these are those followed in Japan and Nepal. Process and extraction of banana fibre Japanese method Nepalese method Figure 1:Process and extraction of banana fibre Japanese Method: The cultivation of banana for clothing and other household use in Japan dates back to the 13th century. In the Japanese method of making banana fibre, the care is taken right from the stage of plant cultivation. The leaves and shoots of the banana plant are pruned periodically to ensure their softness. The harvested shoots are first boiled in lye to prepare the fibres for making the yarn. These banana shoots give away fibres having varying degrees of softness. This further results in yarns and textiles with differing qualities that can be used for specific purposes. The outermost fibres of the shoots are the coarsest ones. They are therefore, more suitable for making such home furnishings as tablecloths. The softest part is the innermost part that gives soft fibres which are widely used for making kimono and kamishimo, the

25 25 traditional Japanese apparels. The banana cloth making process is a lengthy one and all the steps are performed by hand Nepalese Method: In Nepal, the trunk of the banana plant is harvested instead of the shoots. Small pieces of these trunks are put through a softening process for mechanical extraction of the fibres, and then bleaching, and drying. The fibre obtained thus has appearance similar to silk which has become popular as banana silk fibre yarn. This fibre is refined, processed and skeined mostly by the Nepalese women. Only the aged bark or the decaying outer layers of the banana plant are harvested and soaked in water to quicken the natural process. When all the chlorophyll is dissolved, only the cellulose fibres remain. They are extruded into pulp so that they may become suitable for spinning into yarn. The yarn is then hand- dyed. They have high textural quality similar to silk and as such employed in making high end rugs. These traditional rugs are woven by hand-knotted methods again by the women of Nepal. Figure 2: scraping the banana Pseudo stem

26 26 CHAPTER BANANA FIBER EXTRACTION PROCESSING, YARN SPINNING & WEAVING: The National Institute for Inter-Disciplinary Science and Technology (NIIST) in India developed a technology to extract banana fibre which involves an anaerobic (without oxygen) process. Enzymes produced in an anaerobic reactor are used to separate the fibres. Once the process of separation of fibres gets completed the fibres are then washed and dried in sunlight. The fibre thus obtained is pure white in colour. NIIST claims that this process is low-cost, pollution-free and does not damage fibres. The extraction of the natural fibre from the plant required certain care to avoid damage. In the present experiments, initially the banana plant sections were cut from the main stem of the plant and then rolled lightly to remove the excess moisture. Impurities in the rolled fibres such as pigments, broken fibres, coating of cellulose etc. Were removed manually by means of comb, and then the fibres were cleaned and dried. This mechanical and manual extraction of banana fibres was tedious, time consuming, and caused damage to the fibre. Consequently, this type of technique cannot be recommended for industrial application. A special machine was designed and developed for the extraction of banana fibres in a mechanically automated manner. It consisted mainly of two horizontal beams whereby a carriage with an attached and specially designed comb, could move back and forth. The fibre extraction using this technique could be performed simply by placing a cleaned part of the banana stem on the fixed platform of the machine, and clamped at the ends by jaws. This eliminated relative movement of the stem and avoided premature breakage of the fibres. This follows cleaning and drying of the fibres in a chamber at 200 C for three hours. These fibres were then labelled and ready for lamination process. After fibre is collected, the process goes to yarn spinning. The banana fibre extracting machine will be promoted among poor farmers and small rural entrepreneurs. Fascinating features of this machine is that it uses agriculture waste of banana harvest to produce silk-like fibres. These fibres are of

27 27 great help to the handicraft and textile industry. Agricultural waste is now used to produce good quality silk-like fibre yarn. Plate 7: Spun yarn, weaving and Banana fabric. The researcher investigated the traditional process, which use the filament yarns in weaving banana fabric. The finding showed that the convention process was very time-consuming, thus not appropriate for today s use. Therefore, this research explored open-ended spinning process for yarn development. The fibre was cut in to 3-centimeter length for spinning process. After yarn spinning, weaving is done in the looms as per normal process like any other material. According to the researchers, the fabric can be cheaper than cotton and linen if it is produced in large scale. Fabrics made from these fibres have good shine, are light weight, have quick moisture absorption quality and look similar to linen. It can work as an environment friendly substitute to many popular fabrics Weaving Preparatory process: Pre-treatment (Bleaching): Bleaching operation is carried out to improve the whiteness of fabric. This is achieved by the process known as bleaching. During bleaching the natural colouring matters present in banana are decomposed to colourless substances. The removal of these colouring matters helps to improve the whiteness of banana fabric.

28 28 Purpose of bleaching: 1. To produce white fabric by destroying colouring matter with minimum fibre degradation. 2. To improve brightness of colour after dyeing or printing 3. Further improvement of whiteness by treatment with optical brightening agents when the fabric is to be marketed as white Purpose of preparatory processes: To remove natural and added impurities To impart certain desirable properties (water absorbency) To improve the appearance of fabric (whiteness) To make it suitable for subsequent processes like dyeing, printing finishing Removal impurities to the maximum extent with minimum effect on fabric strength. In case of cotton following chemical reactions are involved while removing the impurities Hydrolysis Oxidation Sizing and Starching: Sizing is a protective process. The process of applying a protective adhesive coating upon yarns surface is called sizing. This is the most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency especially for blended yarns.

29 29 Purpose of Sizing: Sizing is done during beam preparation for getting some advantage of weaving. Sizing has lots of objects given below. To improve the weave ability of warp yarn by making it more resistance to action of weaving like absorption, friction, tension etc. To maintain good fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness and by increasing smoothness and absorbency of yarn Elasticity of the yarn is increased. Figure 3(a): Yarn brushing before starching

30 30 Figure 3(b): Yarn brushing before starching

31 31 Figure 4: Sizing of yarns

32 32 Figure 5: Starching of the yarns 6.3. DYEING OF BANANA FIBRES: The extracted fibre after splicing basic colours are used for dyeing. Natural dyes are obtained from hibiscus, pomegranate, henna, harifra plants. The required dye in the required quantity is added to boiling water Then the fibre is added and boiled for 15 minutes to 1 hour according to the requirement. It is later transferred, washed and dried. Once the fibres are ready for knotting a bunch of fibres are mounted or clamped on a stick to facilitate segregation Each fibre is separated according to fibre sizes and grouped accordingly. To knot the fibre each fibre is knotted to end of another fibre manually.

33 33 The separation and knotting is repeated until the bunches of unknotted fibres are finished to form a long and continuous strand. Plate 8: Dyed Banana Coarse Fibre 6.4. PRODUCTS AVAIBLE IN MARKET: Paper Textiles Shoes Furniture Bags Baskets Rugs and mats

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35 35 CHAPTER-7 GOVERNMENT OF GUJRAT PROJECT ON BANANA FIBRE EXTRACTION AND TEXTILES PRODUCTION UNIT- Jan, 2017 In the 8 th global summit government of Gujrat has come up with the huge banana fibre textile unit to promote and create retail market of banana fibre clothing. Here the gist of the project information.

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41 41 CHAPTER-8 PRIMARY RESEARCH 8.1. RESEARCH DESIGN AND METHODOLOGY Research Design: Explanatory research is followed.to understand and investigate factors influencing the expansion of banana fibre clothing and products developed from waste of banana plants which is bio degradable Research Methodology: I. Data collection is done by qualitative and quantitative research methodology. II. Qualitative research Unstructured interview was conducted for data collection based on the secondary research data. III. Quantitative research close-ended questionnaire survey was conducted to understand consumer knowledge about banana fibre clothing.

42 42 INTERVIEWS Interview 1 Place: Anakaputhur Date: Name C.Sekar LOCATION ADDRESS Native Tambavaram District, Chennai,India Anakaputhur Weaver Association Jawaharlal Nehru Street,Anakaputhur, Chennai , Tamil Nadu, India Anakaputhur D.O.B 31 st January 1964 Age Education Designation Product Range 53 years higher secondary school Anakaputhur Weaver Association head and owns weaving unit Sarees, dhotis and shirts Employees 25 Wages Per Month:7000 INR Per day: INR Pit loom machines 12

43 43 Days taken to make one banana with cotton saree Days taken to make one banana with silk saree Monthly they produce banana clothing Cost of 1Kg Banana fibre Cost per plant(pseudo stem) Turn over yearly 2-3 working days 5-6 working days 100 sarees 25 shirts i.e. 50 meters fabric 900 INR 10 INR 20 lakhs INR Table 3: C. Sekar Interview (All information is said by C. Sekar,Anakaputhur Weaver Association head and owner of weaving unit) Mr. Sekar is the sole proprietor of his firm. He is working on natural fibres clothing from past 15 years and specially banana fibre clothing from past 10 years. Banana fibre is extracted in two ways: I. One is mechanical machines used for paper and handicrafts production. II. Hand extraction is used for handloom textiles Cost of fibre extraction machine is 1.25 lakh space required is small. Banana fibre clothing is done with cotton mix banana fibre and silk mix banana fibre. The fibre is extracted from stem of banana plant which is an agriculture wastage and used for creating eco-friendly and bio degradable textiles and handicraft products. 200 grams of fibre is extracted from one banana plant in that150 grams is useful for creating textiles and remaining 50 grams is a wastage. To create one saree i.e metres of fabric 300 grams of banana fibre is used weft wise. For shirt 200 grams of banana fibre is used.starting range of cotton with banana is 1500 INR and goes up to INR and Silk with banana costs40,000 INR. There are two stages of making cotton with banana saree 1. Stage 1a: warp cotton 1b: Weft cotton with banana (50%) 2. Stage 2:100 grams banana fibre

44 44 Total 150 grams of banana fibre is used 300 grams of weight saree 3. Maximum weigh of banana fibre is 500 grams. Here the fibre is extracted from banana stems with hands and per day the maximum amount of extraction of fibre in terms of quantity is 50 grams. Banana agriculture waste is collected from nearby villages which cost 10 INR per plant or if the fibre is purchased it will cost per 1 Kg 900 INR from which 10 Meters of fabric is woven. Transportation hardly costs 50 INR. According to the requirement and usage either banana plant wastage or banana fibre is purchased. The maximum weaving is done cotton with banana. The Philippians country has the technology which can replace the organic textile weaving by increase of almost 50% of banana fibre as a natural fibre mix in the textile weaving which is extracted from the agriculture waste. The machine cost is 75 lakhs. Indian government is trying to get the technology permissions from Philippians so can produce sustainable fashion and clothing in India. Procedure: First fibre is extracted from banana plant stems ad that is converted into yarns 1kg of winding labour cost 10,000 INR (per day grams) For smoothness and softness of textile softness treatment is given. Two types: 1. Fibre bio processing 2. Enjam finishing Apart from this MR. Sekar is working on banana fibre jeans (1.5 metres i.e. 16 inches) and skirts Natural dyes are used for dying of yarns. Banana silk 1 Meter cost-2500 INR (30% of banana fibre is used) Total no of employees-25 members 5 members man power is required to produce 100 sarees per month. 13 mechanical looms are ready for the large-scale setup and currently looking for 22,000 sqft area. Cost of each machine is 75,000INR.

45 45 Figure 6: weaving unit Figure 7: Banana cotton silk saree cost-3800 INR

46 46 Figure 8(a): Banana silk look alike fabric Cost: 2600 INR per meter

47 47 Figure 8(b): Banana silk look alike fabric Cost: 2600 INR per meter Figure 9: Mr Sekar pit loom setup (Weaving unit)

48 48 Figure 10 (a): Insertion of weft and loaded loom ready to weave

49 49 Figure 10 (b): Insertion of weft and loaded loom ready to weave

50 50 Interview 2 Place: ECOGREENUNIT Date: Name K. Murali krishnan LOCATION ADDRESS Native Coimbatore,Tamil Nadu, India 21-a1,Alagesan Road,bharathi park,8th cross, saibaba colony, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu Coimbatore D.O.B 22 nd November 1974 Age Education Designation Product Range 43 years Degree in Arts and science business development head of Eco green unit Banana fibre extraction machine and mat weaving machine. Banana fibre products like bags, mats, jewellery box, decorative items, pocket holder, photo frames,yoga mats, foot wear and pen stands etc. Turn over monthly lakhs in INR Table 4: K. Murali Krishnan Interview

51 51 (All information is said by K. MuraliKrishnan,business development head of Eco green unit) Three people heads Eco green unit Mr.S.K.Babu-Project head Mr.Girivasan-technical engineering head Mr.Murali Krishnan-business development head. It was established in 1994 and started working successfully from 2000 in banana fibre production. In 2000 they use make plates manually and could make 700 plates per day at the maximum and in 2003 they have come up with hydraulics machine which can produce plates per day. The main source of income is through selling machines banana fibre products and areca plant plates and spoons. Banana fibre: they have come up with banana fibre machine where the pseudo stem which id of (2-4) feet or (3-5) feet of the plant is used to extract the fibre and it is dried under sun for half an hour. Once it is dried they use it for waving of mats. The mat weaving machine is also made by eco green engineering team. 2 persons enough to run the both extraction and weaving machine. It is user friendly anyone can understand and operate. In fact, Eco-green unit gives a training to operate for physically handicapped people so they can make their earnings through this. ECOGREENUNIT is a Coimbatore Based NGO working in the sectors Agro based Projects and natural fibre sector especially in Areca Leaf, Banana Fibre/Coir Fibre/Sisal/Pineapple, and jute fibres. They have developed Banana fibre extractor and Banana fibre mat weaving loom and coir Pot making Machinery.

52 52 Figure 11:K. his desk Banana fibre extractor :The quality of the machinery is un Comparable.The Extraction of Fibre will be fine quality, The training will be given for one day per the Cost Rs.1000/ and the certificate will be issued. Up to 25 Kgs of fibre extraction can be done in one day. Banana fibre mat weaving unit: a simple Handloom weaving unit. A women can weave up to 15 Meters of Banana fibre mat per day its easy and simple to learn within a day.no power required and easy to operate Rs.500 can be earned as a Net profit per day.

53 53 Figure 12: Banana fibre extraction machine Eco-green unit gives a training to operate for physically handicapped people so they can make their earnings through operating machines. The setup of this machine is very simple and anyone can setup the small scale fibre extraction mat weaving unit by purchasing machine from the eco green unit, the entire setup can be done in lakhs. The space required for the setup is also less i.e. 10*10 sqft they make a turnover of lakh monthly machines are sold per annual. Sample kit: 10 products of banana fibre in it cost 3000 INR The approximate production of fibre per day is 20kgs in eco green unit and through extractor machine. The costing of mats is measured by 50 paisa per sqftin one hour one labour can weave 1.5 meters of mat which will come up to 15 meters per day.

54 54 Figure 13: Banana fibre mat weaving machine Cost of machines: Extractor machine-1.15 lakh INR Weaving machine-45,000 INR Loan Facility: This is a tiny house hold cottage industry especially for the women. Loans are available in Mudra Bank Scheme in All Nationalized /Private /scheduled Banks. Subsidy: The cost of the machinery is Rs and Rs will be the subsidy from make in India Project. Anybody can apply for the loan and subsidy in this venture.the complete guidance and package will be given by ECOGREENUNIT.

55 55 ANALYSIS Figure 14: Pie chart 4.7% Figure 15: Pie chart

56 56 1.6% 3.1% Figure 16: Pie chart 7.8% Figure 17: Pie chart

57 57 Figure 18: Pie chart Figure 19: Pie char

58 58 Figure 20: Pie chart Figure 21:Bar chart

59 59 6.2% Figure 22: Pie chart Figure 23: List of names

60 60 LEARNING OUT COME: It is observed from the survey that 76.6% users do not have idea about banana fibre clothing and 4.7% users only own banana fibre clothing,95.2% of consumers do not own any banana fibre clothing items.89.1% users are willing to wear banana fibre clothing if the designs and costing is up to latest trends. From the research and survey it is observed that banana fibre clothing is not easily available in the retail market due to its high production value. As Government of Gujrat is coming up with huge Banana Fibre Extraction and Textiles Production Unit the gap between the retail market and customers will bridged in the upcoming years. In order to create awareness and promote banana fibre clothing design intervention will be authenticity of banana fibre clothing logo which will help consumers in identifying the banana fibre clothing.

61 61 DESIGN INTERVENTION Authenticity of banana fibre clothing logo which will help consumers in identifying the banana fibre clothing. LOGO 1: Figure 24: Label logo 1

62 62 LOGO 2: Figure 25: Label logo 2 LOGO 3: Figure 26: Label logo 3

63 63 APPENDIX

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65 65 BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. A workshop on Banana fibre organized by MANTRA, Surat and Navsari Agricultural University, Navsari. (2011, June). Colourage, Anaerobic process for banana fibre extraction developed. (october 2012). Man-made Textiles in India. Retrieved February 12, Dr. Mahapatra, D. (2009, March). Processing of banana fibre in textile industries. COLDURAGE, Mantra Workshop on banana fibre fabrics. (2013, March). COLOURAGE, P. Aparna, P., & A. S. Devi, A. (december 2010). Consumer Perferences for banana blended textiles. Man-made Textiles in India, 1-4. Retrieved February 16, Uraiwan Pitimaneeyakul, U. (n.d.). Banana Fiber: Environmental Friendly Fabric. Retrieved February 10, Vigneswaran, %., Pavithra, P., Gayathri, G., & Mythili, M. (spring 2015). Banana Fiber: Scope and Value Added Product Development. JTATM,9(2), 1-8. Retrieved February 12, (n.d.). Retrieved from 9. (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from &lpg=pp1&dq=inauthor%3a%22katrien%20hendrickx%22&hl=nl&pg=pa204 #v=onepage&q&f=false 12. (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from

66 (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from (n.d.). Retrieved from Plate 1:(n.d.). Retrieved from Plate2:(n.d.). Retrieved from: 24. Plate 3: (n.d.). Retrieved from /95/ppt-on-banana-fibre jpg?cb= Plate 4:(n.d.). Retrieved from /banana-fibre-yarn-250x250.jpg 26. Plate 5: (n.d.). Retrieved from /banana-fiber-250x250.jpg 27. Plate 6(a):(n.d.). Retrieved from ananapapera.jpg 28. Plate 6(b):(n.d.). Retrieved from Plate 7:(n.d.). Retrieved from Ryf6RljQ/UuI7NKLC3ZI/AAAAAAAAMKs/d6vrt3Hj1do/s1600/Spun yarn%252c weaving and Banana fabric.jpg

67 Plate8:(n.d.). Retrieved from POTPOURI-Application in fabric manufacturing, APRIL 2013) 31. Figure 12: Source- k. Murali Krishnan, ECOGREENUNIT 32. Figure 13: Source- k. Murali Krishnan, ECOGREENUNIT