CETextile 2016, 11 th October 2016 Jens Oelerich, SaXcell BV SAXCELL TM

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1 CETextile 2016, 11 th October 2016 Jens Oelerich, SaXcell BV SAXCELL TM

2 SAXION RESEARCH GROUP SMART FUNCTIONAL MATERIALS Sustainable Textiles Responsive Smart Textiles Surface Modification Textile & Garment Construction Technology

3 SAXCELL TM Regenerated virgin cellulose fiber from cotton waste

4 the history SAXCELL TM from waste to valuable feedstock

5 AMBITION Textile waste as feedstock for new virgin fibers No investments into new machines needed Products fit into the existing value chain Widely applicable Reasonable costs and environmental benefits

6 Textiles: the closed material cycle Post-consumer waste apparel feedstock for cellulose fibers fabric regenerated fibers Yarn

7 Processing: closed cycle? discarding Garment production and sale collecting, sorting and unraveling Fabric production and finishing missing link yarn spinning fiber production

8 CHEMICAL RECYCLING WHAT IS IT? UP-CYCLING Processing textile waste for re-use as high quality cellulose fibers ADVANTAGES LCA, less water, less chemicals, less ground, (expected) Widely applicable white virgin fibers Mass production Producible on existing industrial installations Costs: Comparable to existing fibers (expected)

9 Recycling process RECYCLING PROCESS 1) Waste collection and sorting 2) Unravelling and/or milling 3) Removal of polyester and other impurities 4) Discolouration of remaining textile waste 5) Adjustment of the degree of polymerization (DP) 6) Spinning of SaXcellTM fibers 7) Yarn production 8) Fabric production 9) Fabric finishing 10) Garment tailoring 9

10 SaXcell TM fibers Air-gap spinning: 1,7 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm Strength: 43 cn/tex, stronger than cotton and other comparable regenerated fibers Elongation: 13% Hydrophilic Good dyeability Dye efficiency: higher that expected

11 Yarns (100% SaXcell) Artofil/Deurne Open end spinning NM 17 and 34/2 11

12 Woven fabric (100% SaXcell) Johan van den Acker/Gemert Fabric construction: Plain weave (white and yarn dyed) 210 g/m 2 12

13 Fabric testing Tensile strength and elongation to break Dry Wet Weft -Strength[N] Weft-Elong. [%] Warp -Strength[N] Warp -Elong.[%] SaXcell original , ,0 SaXcell bleached 600 8, ,1 Cotton 474 7, ,6 Weft -Strength[N] Weft-Elong. [%] Warp -Strength[N] Warp -Elong.[%] SaXcell original , ,4 SaXcell bleached , ,4 Cotton , ,2 Dyeability of cotton and SaXcell TM with vat dyes cotton SaXcell TM 13

14 SaXcell Where are we today? Two batches of fibers are produced (55 kg and 90 kg) All steps from fiber to garment were successfully completed Quality test showed excellent results Two patents about the process have been filed Investigations into broader waste streams are ongoing The LCA of the process will be finished early 2017

15 Textile recycling Chemical recycling Length of waste fibers not important important Mechanical recycling Composition of waste fibers separation needed to obtain cellulose with a high purity yarn spinning is effected by composition Quality of produced fibers high low/medium/(high) Color of produced fibers white depends on the waste Products with 100% recycled fibers possible? yes, high value yes,(lower value) Costs medium/high low/medium Both recycling strategies have their markets 15

16 Requirements for the successful implementation of SaXcell TM into the market Prize and quality confirm market needs Increased sustainability compared to other fibers Use of the installed base at companies Support from the textile value chain Good business case Mass production Readiness to work with a new type of fiber 16

17 Processing: closed cycle? cycle! discarding Garment production and sale collecting, sorting and unraveling Fabric production and finishing SAXCELL TM yarn spinning fiber production

18 SaXcell B.V. Saxion, University of Applied Science Dr. Gerrit Bouwhuis Textile technology expert / CEO Ir. Ger Brinks Polymer chemist Dr. Pramod Agrawal Bio-catalysis expert Dr. Henk Grooijer Textile chemist Dr. Jens Oelerich Organic and analytic chemist