Cannabis sativa (Industiral Hemp), Bharbar, Kansi, Munj, Maloo, Pateri and Stinging nettle.

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Annice Wade
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1 INTRODUCTION Demand for eco-textiles in the clothing remains high despite the current economic environment. Buyers are concerned about global climate change and the impact of product s production on the planet. They are more aware and better informed, and want to buy garments made from sustainable fibers. Fair trade is of less concern but does play a part in buying decisions and trends. Manufacturers and designers in textile market are also attracted to the new fabrics. According to Marwaha (2007), the growing concerns for the degrading environmental conditions have led to the search and development of eco-friendly and biodegradable fibres. These fibres, being eco-friendly, do not pose the toxicity and waste disposal problems. Eco-friendly fibres are natural fibres, sub-divided into organic (vegetable and animal) and inorganic (mineral) fibres. Globally there is a shift away from the synthetic and a move towards the natural. Some of the minor natural fibers such as banana, sisal, mesta, hemp, flax, angora rabbit hair, and pineapple leaf fibre, which have been till now considered a rural product made for only rural needs, are now being approached in a changed context. Uttaranchal became the 27th state of the country on 9th Nov 2000.The new state represents the high aspirations of its people for their all around socio-economic development. The state forms part of Central Himalayas. Uttaranchal has an area of 53,483 sq.km (which is 1.67% of the total land-area) spread over 13 districts having a total population of 85 lakhs (Uttaranchal Bamboo and Fiber Development Board, 2009). The state has 92.57% area as hilly and only 7.43% as plains. There are around forty different kinds of plant origin fibers available in the whole of Uttaranchal. Of the bunch, only a few are found to grow in abundance and are linked intrinsically to the tribal communities as part of the living craft cultures. While some level of economic activity is being undertaken centered on these fibers, pilot case studies have demonstrated the potential for industrialization and commercialization of the sector. Few of them are: Agave Cantala (Rambans), Grewia optiva (Bhimal),

2 Cannabis sativa (Industiral Hemp), Bharbar, Kansi, Munj, Maloo, Pateri and Stinging nettle. The nettle stinging (Urtica dioica L.) is a perennial plant that contains unlignified, sclerenchymatic fibres in the bark. Several species of the nettle family (Urticaceae) produce bast fibres similar to flax, and many of these species have been used to produce fibre for making textiles and clothing for thousands of years. The three main fibre producing species are European nettle, Ramie and Himalayan nettle. European nettle is difficult to grow commercially. Ramie, on the other hand, produces a fine fibre that is produced commercially in China and Japan. Himalayan nettle is a large nettle grown mainly in the Himalayan region. In all these species, the fibre comes from the stem and, incidentally, there is no sting left in the extracted fibre. It is thought that nettle fiber has been used to make thread and fabric as far back as 2000 years. Before the discovery of cotton nettle has been used throughout Europe as the fabric of choice for better garment and linens. Inventions of manmade fibers have led to its abandonment as a source of textile. Dunsmore (2003) has opined that European nettle was used in the early world wars because of its similarities to cotton, which was unavailable at the time. As it is a potential replacement for cotton, it has a wide variety of uses. It is produced via the same method as cotton which is called "cottonising" and this is a physio-chemical method. In India, it is found in Himalayan foot hills largely available in forest and in outskirt in the villages of Uttaranchal. Nettle is dull-green in color when mature, cm in height, armed with minute prickles on the stem and under the leaves that release an acid, skin irritating juice when pressed or broken. The stem is 4-angled and branching, arising from a creeping and branching rhizome. The extraction of nettle fibers is of great importance since the quality as well as quantity of extracted fibres is strongly influenced by the method of extraction employed. Extraction of fibre means separation of fibre from the cementing substances such as pectin or lignin, wax, resin, fats, and other carbohydrates. Fibres are extracted mechanically. Nettle has several qualities that are of great interest to fabric and clothing manufacturers. Length of the fiber is greater than any other plant fiber known to

3 man, which increases spinning options and, hence, fabric possibilities. Fiber has remarkable high tensile strength, fineness, and specific weight.this allows production of fine fabrics and technical applications (Bodros and Baley, 2007). According to Crebas (2008), tensile strength of nettle fiber is 7-8 times that of silk and cotton and; this is improved by wetting. Stinging nettle has hollow core which is useful for creating fabrics with thermal properties, both warm and cool. It has good wrinkling recovery properties. In addition, it is reputed to be antimicrobial, antibacterial and fire retardant and moth proof. It contains 7.3% moisture and 1.5% ash. Fiber resembles flax in length, firmness and microscopic structure but is softer, more open and downier. Tests on nettle fiber extracted from wild plants growing in Darjeeling have shown that it can be spun into long filaments; the density and the tensile strength of the fiber are higher than those of flax (Uttaranchal Bamboo and Fiber Development Board, 2009). One more factor in favour of nettle is that it is environmentally sustainable. It can be grown very easily. It requires very less water and rare utilization of pesticides. In comparison Cotton uses more hazardous pesticides than any other crop. Cotton even though is natural fibre but growing cotton is not at all environment friendly. It is a well known fact that natural fibres especially minor fibers such as nettle, alone cannot cater to the increasing demand of clothing and other items. Himalayan nettle will always be a very small part of the overall finer market and a small player in the sustainable fiber market segment. Thus the most viable solution lies in the field of blending. Blending is one of the methods to create novel combinations in many ways. Blend is an intimate mixture of fibers of different origin, composition, length, diameter and color spun together. There is no perfect fibre. All fibres have good and poor characteristics (Gulrajani, 1985). Blends combine the positive attributes of each of its component, and minimize the negative characteristics.

4 Blending helps in better use of functional properties of component fiber in blended yarns. One can produce very useful yarns and fabric by blending fibers of different origin or with different fiber of same origin possessing different properties. Use of manmade fibres in blends economizes the cost of the materials thus making it affordable. It also lessens the burden from the natural fibres which are limited in supply. Blending also provides a fabric which has different aesthetic properties and can be put into different kinds of new uses, thus opening the way for product diversification. According to Chaudhari and Das (1991), blending is done to improve functional properties of yarn as well as fabric; to improve the process performance, and improvements with respect to wash and wear properties, increase abrasion resistance that the fabrics made of natural fiber lack considerably. Before the introduction of manmade fibres, there has been little blending of different types of natural fibres because they are not similar in properties and generally incompatible. Nowadays a diverse range of manmade fibres is available and since these fbres can be manufactured in various lengths and fineness, they can be made compatible with almost all natural fibres. Knae et.al (2001) have stated that as per the fashion trend it is expected that demands for blended textile is going to increase in the years to come. Manmade textile is going to dominate 21 st century and blending of fibres as per need will be the most sought after course of action. Moreover, the use of only natural or manmade fibre products for apparel usage does not normally provide the best product. Therefore, the most practical way out is to go for products where a mix or blend of the natural and manmade are used (Salhotra, 2004). Today s fashion conscious consumer demands variety in textile products. Moreover, textile consumer is concerned with high performance, low cost and aesthetic appearance of fabric. The trend is towards blending of fibrous material of different origins to fulfill the above needs of consumer. Instead of competing with man-made sustainable fibers, natural fibers can be blended with manmade fibers. Use of cellulose fibres in blend with manmade fibers is very old practice. Unlike cotton and other natural fibers pressure on production of manmade fiber is less.

5 Acrylic is used as a substituted of wool fabric and also blended with it. Blending of nettle fiber with acrylic will help in decreasing the pressure on nettle fiber. Use of acrylic fiber will compensate for the shortage of nettle fiber. Acrylic fibres are soft, warm, lightweight and resilient. They make easy-care fabrics. Because of their low specific gravity and high bulk properties, the acrylics have been called the warmth without weight fibres. Acrylics have been very successful in end uses such as sweaters and blankets that have been dominated by wool. They are superior to wool in their easy- care properties and are non-allergic. Bulky acrylic yarns are popular in socks, fleece fabric, fake-fur fabric, and craft yarns. Acrylic fibres possess favorable aesthetic properties (Kadolph and Langford, 1998). Acrylic fiber has been successfully blended with many other fibres. Various effect and combination of properties are derived from these blends depending on the fibres used and on the percentage in the blend. One of the most important characteristics that acrylic provides is its high degree of shape retention when washed (Corbman, 1983). In the present study an attempt has been made to blend acrylic fiber with nettle fiber to create better product in various aspects such as aesthetic appeal, ease in availability, ease in care as well as cost effective.

Review. Directions: After watching Design: All About Textiles, answer the following questions.

Review. Directions: After watching Design: All About Textiles, answer the following questions. #300006 Name: Hour: VIDEO WORKSHEET Review Directions: After watching Design: All About Textiles, answer the following questions. NATURAL FIBERS 1. All textiles start as fibers, either or. 2. Natural fibers