Up and Down Crunch Sweater

Transcription

1 Up and Down Crunch Sweater by Anthony Puglisi Left photo: shown in size S with 0 inches of ease Right photo: shown in size L with 4 inches of ease About I looked for a men's crochet sweater pattern that was light weight (under a kilogram) and fun to work on (a.k.a. not boring). I came up empty handed! In the past few years, cables on men's crochet sweaters are popular choices. Also popular has been to create garments with heavier yarns. I wanted good drape for wearable comfort and I didn't want to feel like I was wearing a coat, which can be the consequence of cables or heavy yarns or both. I had a ton of 3-ply and 4-ply yarn in my stash and this sweater design I invented was its destiny. Lighter yarn at a slightly loose gauge with no cables means you get a lighter sweater that still provides that desired warmth every person requires in winter. Added bonus: this is some truly fun and challenging crochet, not some plain old boring thing. The stitch pattern, even with its increases and drecreases, has been easy enough for me to take in some pretty cool movies and TV shows without messing it up, but also challenging and dynamic enough to keep me interested. The sweater is worked in textured stripes following this sequence: a round of front loop hdc, a round of dc, another round of front loop hdc, 9 rounds of up and down stitch, a round of front loop hdc, a round of dc, a round of front loop hdc, 9 rounds of crunch stitch, and rinse and repeat. My favorite and fastest rounds are the crunch stich ones. Which are yours? :) By the way, if you are a woman and you want one of these, feel free to make one for yourself. I think the style is pretty unisex.

2 Sizes: S (M, L, XL1, XL2), 42" (44", 46", 48", 50"), 107 cm (112 cm, 117 cm, 122 cm, 127 cm), measured around the circumference of the chest, below raglan yoke. Yarn Pictured: Dark brown sweater (left photo): Lana especial 4/4 c by Lanas el Gato Negro in color way 76; Orange sweater (right photo): Cascade 220 Fingering in color way 7824 "Jack O'Lantern" Recommended yarn: Any 4-ply yarn will work wonderfully or you could use Cascade 220 Fingering, a 3-ply yarn. Just remember that a 4-ply will produce a more opaque effect and will be slightly heavier. The thing I love about the Cascade 220 Fingering is that it creates an extremely light-weight sweater that is still incredibly warm, weighing approximately 200 grams less than the 4-ply sweater. The only issue with it is that if you wear a light colored shirt underneath, it will be slightly visible. The weird thing about it is that if you wear a dark color under it the fabric looks totally opaque. I tried the orange sweater on with a black tee underneath and it looked like it was thicker than it really is. Anyway, I'm indifferent about this. Light sweaters often behave this way, visually speaking. I modeled it using a light colored shirt to show how good (or bad, taste varies) it can look. I also decided to model different ease measurements. The brown one is not mine, but I made it for the wearer to give him a fit with 4" of ease. Seeing the same sweater in different sizes with varied ease is very instructive, don't you think? It opened my eyes, that's for sure. Other suggested yarns: Patons Fairytale Fab 4-Ply, Cascade Heritage Solids, Stylecraft Special 4-ply, Stylecraft Life 4-Ply, Red Heart Sport Socks, and many more possibilities. The wonderful thing about the world is that it's chock full of inexpensive 4-ply yarns. Other options: If you decide to use a 5-ply sport weight yarn you might get a different row gauge, which shouldn't be too much of a problem. Just adapt as necessary. If you can find a 5- ply gansey yarn, like Wendy Guernsey, it would probably produce results similar to the 4-ply suggestions. Counting rows isn't too critical just as long as you decrease a bit more on the sleeves before arriving at the cuffs. In fact, if you get a different row gauge, just measure like knitters do. When you're at the right length for the wearer, move on to the next step. Yarn amounts The size S sweater, in dark brown, took 6 hanks of Lana especial 4/4 by El Gato Negro. This is 600 grams, or 22 oz of 100% wool yarn. Unfortunately, El Gato Negro does not tell its customers how long each hank is. The size L sweater, in orange, took 8 hanks of Cascade 220 Fingering. This weighs 14 oz or 400 grams and it's 2184 yards of yarn. Obviously, one sweater weighs less than the other because of the difference in number of plies. What counts is the yardage, since both are worked at the same gauge. Depending on size, you will need approximately yards. Buy an extra hank or ball of whatever yarn you plan to use, just in case.

3 Tools US C (2.75 mm) standard crochet hook or appropriate to obtain GAUGE. stitch markers row counter Stitches used in this pattern (some special, others not so much) beg foundation dc corner (beg fdc corner): ch 4, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, pm in dc just made, yarn over and pull up a loop in same ch, yarn over and pull yarn through one loop on hook, *yarn over and pull yarn through two loops on hook, rep from * once. foundation dc corner (fdc corner): 2 dc in same ch, pm in second dc just made, yarn over, pull up a loop from same ch, pull yarn through one loop on hook, * yarn over and pull yarn through two loops on hook, rep from * once. foundation dc (fdc): yarn over and pull up a loop from ch formed in previous foundation dc, yarn over and pull yarn through one loop on hook, *yarn over and pull yarn through two loops, rep from * once. half double crochet through front loop (hdc flo): make a hdc in only the front loop of next st. crunch stitch: row 1: ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 sl st in next st, * 1 hdc in next st, 1 sl st in next st, rep from *; row 2 and all subsequent rows: 1 hdc in each sl st, 1 sl st in each hdc. up and down stitch: row 1: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st, rep from *; row 2 and all subsequent rows: 1 sc in each dc, 1 dc in each sc. How to increase in pattern In the directions you will sometimes be told to "increase in pattern." You will always do this on the RS. To increase in up and down stitch, begin the round with ch 1, 1 sc in same st as join. Then, work (1 dc, 1 sc) in next st. One st increased. Work the round even until you get to the last st. In that st, work (1 sc, 1 dc). To increase in crunch stitch, begin the round with ch 1, 1 hdc in same st as join, Then, work (1 sl st, 1 hdc) in next st. One st increased. Work the round even until you get to the last st. In that st, work (1 hdc, 1 sl st). If you're working a round of dc, increase as usual, with 2 dc in next st and in the last st of the round another 2 dc. How to decrease in pattern You will always decrease on the RS. I have decided to just explain how to decrease in pattern (this happens on the sleeves) instead of writing lines and lines of instructions that waste a lot of time (mine and yours). A lot of people already know how to decrease in pattern. If you're not sure, read on and

4 learn something new. You'll be glad you did. It will knock your crochet skills up a notch with very little effort. Decreasing in up and down stitch The first time you decrease in up and down stitch in the pattern repeat stripe, you will begin the round as if you were on the WS with a ch 3 starting chain. Then, sc the next two stitches together. You will then decrease in the last two stitches of the round with sc two together. All rounds are now worked differently. On the wrong side begin with ch 1, sc in same st. On the right side, begin with ch 3. If you decrease a second time in the pattern repeat stripe, you now beg the round with ch 1, 1 sc in same st, dc next two sts together. At the end of the round, dc the last two stitches together. Decreasing in crunch stitch The first time you decrease in crunch stitch in the pattern repeat stripe, you will begin the round as if you were on the WS with a ch 1 starting chain and then a sl st in same st as join. Then, you will hdc the next two sts together. When you get to the end of the round, hdc the last two sts together. Now on the wrong side you will always begin with ch 1, hdc in same st. If you have to decrease another time while in the same pattern repeat stripe, you'll begin the round with ch 1, 1 hdc in same st as join and then you will sc the next two stitches together. At the end of the round, sc the last two stitches together. Decreasing in double crochet Double crochet two stitches together, as usual. In the case of the sleeves, you'll double crochet the two sts together after the starting ch and then the last two sts of the round. Gauge Make a gauge swatch, because the rows are very zig-zaggy in terms of height: ch 22 row 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook and in each chain across. Turn. row 2: ch 1, 1 hdc in first st, 1 hdc flo in each st across. Turn. row 3: ch 3, 1 dc in next st and each st across. Turn. row 4: rep row 2 row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in 1st st, 1 dc in next st, *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st, rep from * across. Turn. row 6: ch 3, 1 sc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st, rep from * across. Turn. rows 6-12: rep rows 4 and 5. row 13: rep row 5.

5 row 14: rep row 2. row 15: rep row 3. row 16: rep row 2. row 17: ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 sl st in next st, *1 hdc in next st, 1 sl st in next st, rep from * across. Turn. row 18: ch 1, 1 sl st in same st, 1 hdc in next st, *1 hdc in next st, 1 st st in next st, rep from * across. Turn. rows 19-24: rep rows 17 and 18 row 25: rep row 17. row 26: rep row 2. row 27: rep row 3. row 28: rep row 2. Omitting the first row of dcs (row 1), piece should measure 7 inches tall and 4 inches wide. This means that our gauge is 5 stitches per inch, with "unstable" row gauge. Customization suggestions Everybody has a different shape. I've purposefully left this pattern pretty much "square" in the sense that every size begins with the same number of stitches at the neckline and from there the raglan yoke gets wider and longer in a pretty even proportion. This makes the sweater customizable for different tastes and styles. For people with a wider lower torso and narrower chest, it's easy to make simple adjustments by increasing in pattern after the yoke is completed to allow more ease in that area. Alternatively, some people have a bigger chest and narrower lower torso. It's very simple to increase in pattern in other areas on the yoke before it is completed. Just increase in pattern, remembering that 5 stitches amount to 1 inch. The raglan shaping, in fact, is pretty traditional. For a more modern and sleek look, with very little ease on the underarm, you can always increase after completing the yoke to make the rest of the chest slightly wider than the actual yoke to get that sleak raglan fit that is right now in favor. Sweaters with different amounts of ease in different places are often necessary for raglans, especially because it's possible to have excess fabric in the underarm. Some wearers may require a size L from the yoke down yet might need a size M from the neckline to the underarm. If you don't mind a wider collar, add stitches to the very first round, if you wish. Don't be afraid of making adjustments. When I was in the process of designing this sweater, I mostly tried the sweaters on as I went, the brown one on the wearer and myself and then the orange one on myself. It's the benefit of working from the top down. It allows you to try it on in every stage of making it. Fudgeability at 100%.

6 Directions - This sweater is crocheted from the top down, in the round, and with raglan shaping. Yoke rnd 1 (RS): 1 beg. fdc corner, 44 fdc, 1 fdc corner, 24 fdc, 1 fdc corner, 44 fdc, 1 fdc corner, 24 fdc, join with sl st to top of ch-3 of beg fdc corner. Turn. 148 stitches (4 fdc corners, 4 marked sts, 140 fdc) rnd 2 (WS): ch 1, 1 hdc flo in same st as join, *1 hdc flo in each st to marker, 3 hdc flo in marked st, pm in 2nd hdc of 3-hdc group just made, rep from *, join with sl st in 1st hdc. Turn. (156 sts) rnd 3 (RS): ch 3, *1 dc in each st to marker, 3 dc in marked st, pm in 2nd dc of 3-dc group just made, rep from * around to beg ch-3, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. Turn. (164 sts) rnd 4 (WS): rep rnd 2 (172 sts) rnd 5 (RS): ch 1, 1 sc in same st as join, 1 dc in next st, *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st, rep from * to marker, 3 hdc in marked st, pm in 2nd hdc of 3-hdc group, rep from * to end of rnd (last st worked is dc), join with sl st to beg sc. Turn. (180 sts) rnd 6 (WS): ch 3, [*1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc, rep from * to 3-hdc group, 1 sc in next hdc, 3 hdc in marked hdc, pm in 2nd hdc of 3-hdc group just made, 1 dc in next hdc] 4 times, 1 sc in next dc, **1 dc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, rep from ** to end of rnd, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. Turn. (188 sts) rnd 7 (RS): ch 1, 1 sc in same st as join, [*1 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next dc, rep from * to 3-hdc group, 1 dc in next hdc, 3 hdc in marked hdc, 1 sc in next hdc] 4 times, 1 dc in next sc, **1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc, rep from ** to end of rnd, join with sl st to beg sc. (196 sts) rnds 8-13: rep rnds 6 and 7. (230 sts) rnd 14: rep rnd 2. (238 sts) rnd 15: rep rnd 3. (246 sts) rnd 16: rep rnd 2. (254 sts) rnd 17 (RS): ch 1, 1 hdc in same st as join, [*sl st in next hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc, rep from * to next 3- hdc group, 1 sl st in next hdc, 3 hdc in marked hdc, pm in 2nd hdc of 3-hdc group just made, 1 hdc in next hdc, rep from *] 4 times, ** 1 hdc in next hdc, sl st in next hdc, rep from ** to end of rnd, join with sl st to beg hdc. Turn. (262 sts) rnd 18 (WS): ch 1, sl st in same st as join, [*1 hdc in next sl st, 1 sl st in next hdc, rep from * to 3-hdc group, 1 hdc in next hdc, 3 hdc in marked hdc, pm in 2nd hdc of 3-hdc group just made, 1 sl st in next hdc] 4 times, **1 sl st in next hdc, 1 hdc in next sl st, rep from ** to end of rnd, join with sl st to beg sl st. Turn. (270 sts)

7 rnd 19 (RS): ch 1, 1 hdc in same st as join, [*sl st in next hdc, 1 hdc in next sl st, rep from * to next 3- hdc group, 1 sl st in next hdc, 3 hdc in marked hdc, pm in 2nd hdc of 3-hdc group just made, 1 hdc in next hdc, rep from *] 4 times, ** 1 hdc in next sl st, sl st in next hdc, rep from ** to end of rnd, join with sl st to beg hdc. Turn. (278 sts) rnds 20-25: rep rnds 18 and 19. (326 sts) rnd 26: rep rnd 2. (334 sts) rnd 27: rep rnd 3. (342 sts) rnd 28: rep rnd 2. (350 sts) Pattern is established. Continue working, repeating from rnds 5 to 28, alternating stitch patterns as written (1 rnd hdc flo, 1 rnd dc, 1 rnd hdc flo, 9 rounds up and down stitch, 1 rnd hdc flo, 1 rnd dc, 1 rnd hdc flo, 9 rnds crunch stitch, 1 rnd hdc flo, 1 rnd dc, 1 rnd hdc flo...) with corner increases for the yoke. Completing the yoke Size S: continue in pattern as established until a total of 30 rnds have been completed. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. Size M: continue in pattern as established until a total of 32 rnds have been completed. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. Size L: continue in pattern as established until a total of 34 rnds have been completed. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. Size XL1: continue in pattern as established until a total of 36 rnds have been completed. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. Size XL2: continue in pattern as established until a total of 38 rnds have been completed. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. All sizes: remember (or write a note) where you were in the stitch pattern at the end of the yoke. You need to know this for continuing the body and the sleeves. Remember the sequence: 1 rnd hdc flo, 1 rnd dc, 1 rnd hdc flo, 9 rnds up and down stitch, 1 rnd hdc flo, 1 rnd dc, 1 rnd hdc flo, 9 rnds crunch stitch, 1 rnd hdc flo, 1 rnd dc, 1 rnd hdc flo...) Next rnd: Decide which widest side will be the front (it really doesn't matter, but to make sense of the directions it helps). With RS facing, fold piece in half so that each of two front marked sts meet each of the two back marked stitches, respectively, and so that the back side faces you. This will make the arm holes obvious to you. With new yarn, make a slip knot. Insert hook into right back marked stitch and front marked stitch. Both stitches will be lying on your hook. Pull loop of slip knot through both stitches. Depending on where you are in the stitch pattern, you may need to ch 1 or ch 3. After making starting ch, make the appropriate stitch for where you are in the stitch pattern. This could be 1 sc, 1 hdc,

8 1 sl st, or 1 dc. Continue crocheting in the pattern as established to the next marked stitch. Inserting hook in back marked st and front marked st as before, crochet the two marked stitches together using whatever stitch is next in the stitch pattern. Continue working along the front of the piece (be careful not to wander onto the sleeve stitches, just work on the body!). When you get to the beginning of the round, join with a sl st into first st. Turn. Continue working in pattern as established, excluding the increases (no more 3-hdc groups), until piece measures 26" (27", 27 1/2", 28", 29") or desired length. The last round should be a round of hdc flo (a rnd 28 without increases, see instructions for yoke). Ch 1, turn. Bottom band With RS facing, sc in same st as join. Pm in sc just made. *1 sc in next st, rep from * to marked st. Sc in marked st, pm in sc just made. Continue working in spirals until band measures 1" or desired length. At the end of the last round, join with sl st to marked st. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. Sleeves (make 2) There are 84 (88, 92, 96, 100) sleeve sts. With RS facing, make a slip knot and pull it through the sts that were joined together upon completing the yoke. This is the center of the underarm. Make an appropriate starting ch, depending on where you need to continue working in the stitch pattern and then make an appropriate beg st in the same st, if necessary. Increase in pattern in next st, continue working in pattern as established until you reach the st before the beginning of the rnd. Increase in pattern in this st. Join with sl st to beginning st of the rnd. Turn. There are now: 86 (90, 94, 98, 102) sleeve sts. Continue working even in pattern as established 5 rnds. This rnd on the RS and then every 6th rnd on the RS is a decrease rnd: make appropriate starting ch and 1 st in same st as join if needed. Decrease in pattern in next two sts. Work even in pattern to last two sts. Decrease in pattern in next two sts. Join with sl st to first st of round. Turn. (2 stitches decreased) Continue working as established with every 6th round a decrease round until 40 (42, 44, 46, 48) sts remain. Work even in pattern until sleeve is desired length, ending with a round of hdc flo. Then, work 8 rnds of sc in spiral fashion, as for bottom band for body. Note about the sleeves: I haven't instructed for any particular sleeve length because I think that's silly. Everybody needs unique sleeves, some shorter, some longer, and arm length has little to do with chest circumference. If decreasing every 6th round doesn't work well because you need super short sleeves, try decreasing every 4th round or, alternatively, just start fudging it and start decreasing every other round until you get the right number of stitches for the cuff. Trust me, it will not distort the shape to do this. My intention was to create a loose-fitting sleeve. It helps in the comfort zone.

9 Neck band Join the yarn wherever you wish at the neckline (I suggest in the back on a shoulder, ideally where the starting tail is dangling). Work in spiraled rnds of sc for 10 rnds or desired number of rnds, as for bottom band for body and sleeve cuffs. Cut yarn, leaving a 4" tail. Finishing Weave in ends and block, if desired. Schematic

10 Abbreviations 3-hdc group beg beg fdc corner ch dc fdc fdc corner hdc hdc flo pm rep rnd RS sc sl st st WS three-half-double-crochet group, a group of three half double crochets beginning beginning foundation double crochet corner chain double crochet foundation double crochet foundation double crochet corner half double crochet front loop half double crochet place marker repeat round right side single crochet slip stitch stitch wrong side Copyright 2017 by Anthony Puglisi. All rights reserved. The contents of this pattern may not be reproduced without the copyright holder's written permission.