CHAPTER IV ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THREAD AND YARN PRODUCTION IN INDIA

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1 49 CHAPTER IV ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THREAD AND YARN PRODUCTION IN INDIA 4.1 INTRODUCTION The present chapter deals with the origin and development of thread and yarn production and marketing in India. This chapter consists of features of thread, production process, and present scenario of textile market in India, yarn productions annual reports of planning commission, and threads and yarn major produces in India. The details of the chapters are discussed as follows. 4.2 THREAD AND YARN YARN Yarn is continuous interlocked thread like structure made of several fibers. It can be used to make fabrics, knit sweaters, crochet, weave, etc. It can even be used to make ropes and to mend fences. For different uses, different yarns are used. Thus, to make apparels for warmth, yarn made of wool is used while to make ropes where strength is required, yarn made of cotton or bamboo is used. For making yarn, several plies are interlinked together in a twisting pattern to make them thick and create a strong yarn. A yarn is obviously much stronger and thicker than a single thread. Sometimes yarn can be soft, as when wool is used to make it for knitting pullovers.

2 50 A yarn is classified depending upon the direction of the final twist. Thus, these have s-twist yarn while there is also z-twist yarn. However, when there is a single thread in a yarn, obviously the final twist is same as the original twist. Continuous strand of fibres is grouped or twisted together and used to construct textile fabrics. Yarns are made from both natural and synthetic fibres, in filament or staple form. Filament is very long fibre, including the natural fibre silk and the synthetic fibres. Most fibres that occur in nature are fairly short, or staple, and synthetic fibres may be cut into short, uniform lengths to form staple. Spinning is the process of drawing out and twisting a mass of cleaned, prepared fibres. Filament yarns generally require less twist than do staple yarns. More twist produces stronger yarn; low twist produces softer, shinier yarn. Two or more single strands may be twisted together to form ply yarn. Knitting yarns have less twist than weaving yarns. "Thread", used for sewing, is a tightly twisted ply yarn THREAD A thread is a long fiber made of different materials mostly used in sewing. It could be cotton, nylon, silk, polyester, rayon, or wool. Thickness of a thread is an important criterion and weight of one kilometer length of the thread tells one about the thinness of the thread (or its thickness). The longer the length to weigh 1 kg, the thinner is the thread. Thread is a type of yarn which is twisted ply. Thread is a tightly twisted strand of two or more ply of yarn that is circular when cut in cross section. It is used for hand sewing and in home sewing machines. Ninety-five percent of all sewing

3 51 thread that is manufactured is used in commercial and industrial sewing. Sewing thread is distinguished from yarn by the fact that the thread is used to sew together garments or other products, but yarn is the collection of fibers used to weave or knit into a textile fabric. The terms are confusing and are often used interchangeably; thread can be made of yarn, but yarn is not made of threads. 4.3 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN YARN AND THREAD A thread is a type of yarn. A thread is used for sewing while a yarn can be used for many purposes such as knitting, weaving, embroidering, and crocheting, and so on. A thread is lighter in weight than a yarn in general. While a thread is used to sew pieces of fabrics together, yarn is used to weave an altogether new fabric Yarn is a long incessant and interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and rope making. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery. The most common plant fiber is cotton, which is typically spun into fine yarn for mechanical weaving or knitting into cloth. Cotton and polyester are the most commonly spun fibers in the world. Cotton is grown

4 52 throughout the world, harvested, ginned, and prepared for yarn spinning. Polyester is extruded from polymers derived from natural gas and oil. Synthetic fibers are generally extruded in continuous strands of gel-state materials. These strands are drawn (stretched), annealed (hardened), and cured to obtain properties desirable for later processing PRODUCTION PROCESS Synthetic fibers come in three basic forms: staple, tow, and filament. Staple is cut fibers, generally sold in lengths up to 120mm. Tow is a continuous "rope" of fibers consisting of many filaments loosely joined side-to-side. Filament is a continuous strand consisting of anything from 1 filament to many. Synthetic fiber is most often measured in a weight per linear measurement basis, along with cut length. Denier and Dtex are the most common weight to length measures. Cut-length only applies to 1 Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, ISBN , p. 203

5 53 staple fiber. Filament extrusion is sometimes referred to as "spinning" but most people equate spinning with spun yarn production. 2 The most commonly spun animal fiber is wool harvested from sheep. For hand knitting and hobby knitting, thick, wool and acrylic yarns are frequently used. Other animal fibers used include alpaca, angora, mohair, llama, cashmere, and silk. More rarely, yarn may be spun from camel, yak, possum, qiviut, cat, dog, wolf, rabbit, or buffalo hair, and even turkey or ostrich feathers. Natural fibers such as these have the advantage of being slightly elastic and very breathable, while trapping a great deal of air, making for a fairly warm fabric. Other natural fibers that can be used for yarn include linen and cotton. These tend to be much less elastic, and retain less warmth than the animal-hair yarns, though they can be stronger in some cases. The finished product will also look rather different from the woolen yarns. Other plant fibers which can be spun include bamboo, hemp, corn, nettle, and soy fiber. In general, natural fibers tend to require more careful handling than synthetics because they can shrink, felt, stain, shed, fade, stretch, wrinkle, or be eaten by moths more readily, unless special treatments such as mercerization or super washing are performed to strengthen, fix color, or otherwise enhance the fiber's own properties. Protein yarns (i.e., hair, silk, feathers) may also be irritating to some people, causing contact dermatitis, hives, wheezing, or other reactions. Plant fibers tend to be better tolerated by people with sensitivities to the protein yarns, and allergists may suggest using them or synthetics instead to prevent symptoms. Some people find that they can tolerate organically 2

6 54 grown and processed versions of protein fibers, possibly because organic processing standards preclude the use of chemicals that may irritate the skin. When natural hair-type fibers are burned, they tend to singe and have a smell of burnt hair; this is because many, as human hair, are protein-derived. Cotton and viscose (rayon) yarns burn as a wick. Synthetic yarns generally tend to melt though some synthetics are inherently flame-retardant. Noting how an unidentified fiber strand burns and smells can assist in determining if it is natural or synthetic, and what the fiber content is. Both synthetic and natural yarns can pill. Pilling is a function of fiber content, spinning method, twist, and fabric construction. Yarns combining synthetic and natural fibers inherit the properties of each parent, according to the proportional composition. Synthetics are added to lower cost, increase durability, add unusual color or visual effects provide machine wash ability and stain resistance, reduce heat retention or lighten garment weight. Spun yarn is made by twisting staple fibres together to make a cohesive thread, or "single." Twisting fibres into yarn in the process called spinning can be dated back to the Upper Paleolithic, and yarn spinning was one of the very first processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fibre, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibres (which can have high strength, lustre, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibres (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The most widely used blends are cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fibre blends. Blends of different natural fibres are common too, especially with more expensive fibres such as alpaca, angora and cashmere. Yarn is selected for different textiles based on the

7 55 characteristics of the yarn fibres, such as warmth (wool), light weight (cotton or rayon), durability (nylon is added to sock yarn, for example), or softness (cashmere, alpaca). Yarn is composed of twisted strands of fiber, which are known as plies when grouped together. These strands of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will have either s-twist or z-twist. For a single ply yarn, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist. The twist direction of yarn can affect the final properties of the fabric, and combined use of the two twist directions can nullify skewing in knitted fabric. Filament yarn consists of filament fibres (very long continuous fibres) either twisted together or only grouped together. Thicker monofilaments are typically used for industrial purposes rather than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects. 3 Texturized yarns are made by a process of air texturizing filament yarns (sometimes referred to as taslanizing), which combines multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun yarns. Yarn quantities for handcrafts are usually measured and sold by weight in ounces or grams. Common sizes include 25 g, 50 g, and 100 g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins. Textile measurements are taken at a standard temperature and humidity, because fibers 3 Barber, Elizabeth Wayland, Women's Work:The First 20,000 Years, W. W. Norton, 1994, p. 44

8 56 can absorb moisture from the air. The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the inherent heaviness of the fibre and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of lace weight mohair may contain several hundred metres, while a 50 g skein of bulky wool may contain only 60 metres. There are several thicknesses of craft yarn, also referred to as weight. This is not to be confused with the measurement and/or weight listed above. The Craft Yarn Council of America is making an effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring this, numbering the weights from 1 (finest) to 6 (heaviest).[6] Some of the names for the various weights of yarn from finest to thickest are called lace, fingering, sport, doubleknit (or DK), worsted, heavy worsted, bulky, and super-bulky. This naming convention is more descriptive than precise; fibre artists disagree about where on the continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes. Another measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (WPI). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps that fit in an inch is counted. 4 Labels on yarn for handicrafts often include information on gauge, known in the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per cm on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-four inch/ten-by-ten cm knitted or crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across and rows high made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge. In Europe, textile engineers often 4

9 57 use the unit tex, which is the weight in grams of a kilometre of yarn, or decitex, which is a finer measurement corresponding to the weight in grams of 10 km of yarn. Many other units have been used over time by different industries. Table 4.1 State wise Production of yarn in India to State/Union Territory Andhra Pradesh Arunachal Pradesh NA NA NA Assam NA NA NA Bihar NA NA NA Chhattisgarh NA NA NA Goa NA NA NA Gujarat Haryana Himachal Pradesh Jammu and Kashmir Jharkhand Karnataka Kerala Madhya Pradesh Maharashtra Manipur NA NA NA Meghalaya NA NA NA Mizoram NA NA NA Nagaland NA NA NA Orissa Punjab Rajasthan Sikkim NA NA NA Tamil Nadu Tripura NA NA NA Uttarakhand Uttar Pradesh West Bengal A and N. Island NA NA NA Chandigarh NA NA NA Dadra and N Haveli Daman and Diu Delhi NA NA NA Lakshadweep NA NA NA Pondicherry Total Figures are in (Mn. Kg.). Original Data Source: Office of the Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles and published in Statistical Year Book-2014 by MOSPI. Source: National Data Sharing and Accessibility Policy (NDSAP)

10 58 The above table infers that the total production of the yarn is 3567 million Kg have produced during , among the states of India Tamilnadu has produced more than 1341 million Kg during It is per cent of the total production. Hence, Tamilnadu played role in the production of yarn and its requirement in India. Year Table 4.2 Production of yarn by counts in India to Counts Counts Counts Counts Counts Counts Above 80 Counts Total Counts NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA Mean 2731 Std Dev CoVar 0.18 t value 9.3 p value NA; Not Available. Figures are in (Mn. Kg.). Original Data Source: Office of the Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles and published in Statistical Year Book by MOSPI. The above annual production data analyzed by the regression using SPSS to arrive at the ACGR for 13 years.

11 59 Table 4.3 Production of yarn by counts in India to Regression analysis Model Summary Model R R Square Adjusted R Square Std. Error of the Estimate a a. Predictors: (Constant), year ANOVA a Model Sum of df Mean Square F Sig. 1 Squares Regression b Residual Total a. Dependent Variable: annual production b. Predictors: (Constant), year Coefficients a Model Unstandardized Standardized t Sig. Coefficients Coefficients B Std. Error Beta (Constant) Year a. Dependent Variable: annual production The total leaner growth rate of the production arrived at from the regression analysis is Its ACGR is 4.54 per cent using the = (EXP (0.044)-1)*100 formula in Excel. Therefore the growth rate was significant during the study period. Hence, the government of India can assist to improve the production of yarn.

12 60 Table 4.4 Annual Domestic Delivery of Yarn up to March 2013 Particulars Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hanks Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hosiery Cones Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Weaving Cones Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Beams and Pirns Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Sewing Thread and others Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hanks Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hosiery Cones Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Weaving Cones Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Beams and Pirns Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Sewing Thread and others Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Cotton Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Blended Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- 100% Non Cotton Figures are in Kg million; Source: Office of the Textile Commissioner; Compiled by Planning Commission; NA: Not Available. Released Under National Data Sharing and Accessibility Policy (NDSAP)

13 61 Table 4.4 (a) Annual Domestic Delivery of Yarn up to March 2013 Particulars Mean Std Dev Co. Var LGR ACGR t value p value Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hanks Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hosiery Cones Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Weaving Cones Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Beams and Pirns Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Sewing Thread and others Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hanks Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Hosiery Cones Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Weaving Cones Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Beams and Pirns Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Sewing Thread and others Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Cotton Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Blended Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- 100% Non Cotton Source: Computed from the above table 4.4

14 62 The above table infers that the negative growth rate has been attained by the Spun Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Beams and Pirns, Cotton Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Beams and Pirns, Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- Blended, and Hank Yarn- including Small Scale Industry- Annual- 100% Non Cotton. Hence, the Beams and Pirns, blended and noncotton items there not got the growth significantly. The cotton yarn of weaving cones alone has got the better growth value among the above items. Therefore the annual domestic delivery of the yarn items has not significantly got growth for ten years during to Hence, the government can improve the negative growth items to positive by providing certain tax benefits and providing raw material sources through import. Table 4.5 Annual Total Production of Yarn upto March 2014 Particulars Total Cotton Non Cotton Blended Mean Std dev Co.var LGR ACGR t value p value Figures are in Kg million; Source: Office of the Textile Commissioner; Compiled by Planning Commission; NA: Not Available. Released Under National Data Sharing and Accessibility Policy (NDSAP)

15 63 The above table shows that positive growth rate was attained for the cotton, non-cotton and blended yarns during 2005 to It denotes that the growth of the total yarn production in India is better. Particularly the cotton yarn has more growth than the other yarns during the above period. Therefore the total annual production of yarns has attained a significant growth. Hence, the government can improve the growth of yarn production with this positive sign by providing certain subsidiaries to manmade filament and cotton yarns producers will enhance the production more. Hence, the researcher has also analyzed the growth of manmade filament yarn production for the same period. Table 4.6 Production of Yarn in Man Made Filament up to April 2014 Particulars Total Annual Annual: Viscose Annual: Polyester Annual: Nylon Annual: Polypropylene Mean Std dev Co.var LGR ACGR t value P value Figures are in Kg million; Source: Office of the Textile Commissioner; Compiled by Planning Commission; NA: Not Available. Released Under National Data Sharing and Accessibility Policy (NDSAP)

16 64 The above table reveals that positive growth rate was been attained for the total production of manmade filament thread and yarn. But it not a significant growth during 2005 to The Viscose and Nylon attained negative growth significantly. But the Polyester and Polypropylene yarns have positively attained the growth insignificantly. The growth of manmade production of yarns have positive and negative that are consistently sustained during the 2005 to Therefore the total annual production of manmade filament yarns has attained insignificant growth. Hence, the government can improve the growth of manmade filament yarn production with positive sign by providing certain subsidiaries to manmade filament produces and weavers will enhance the production more. Hence the researcher has also analyzed the prices differences of raw cotton, Yarn, polyester, and other threads. Table 4.7 Prices Differences between 2013 and 2014 Particulars Differences Raw Cotton Raw Cotton: Medium: 20.5 to 24.5mm Raw Cotton: Long: 27.5 to 32mm Raw Cotton: Extra Long: 32.5mm and above Yarn: Hanks Yarn: Cones Yarn: Hosiery Cones Polyester Viscose Blended Yarn Polyester Cotton Blended Yarn Polyester Staple Fibre Viscose Filament Yarn Texturised Yarn Merino Wool: Imported Charaka Dupion Cottage Basin Ramanagram Source: Economic Research and Market Intelligence Unit; Compiled by Planning Commission

17 65 The above table shows that the price differences between the last two years (2013 and 2014) of yarns and threads in the market generally reduced due to various economic, political and environmental reasons. But the Hanks, Cones, and Hosiery Cones of yarns increased. Therefore, yarn item was also reduced in its price. It would enhance the yarn production in forthcoming years of production. 4.5 PRESENT SCENARIO OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA India is the one of the world's largest producers of textiles and garments. Abundant availability of raw materials such as cotton, wool, silk and jute as well -as skilled workforce has made the country a sourcing hub. It is the world's second largest producer of textiles and garments. The Indian textiles industry accounts for about 24% of the world's spindle capacity and eight per cent of global rotor capacity. The potential size of the Indian textiles and apparel industry is expected to reach USS 223 billion by The textiles industry has made a major contribution to the national economy in terms of direct and indirect employment generation and net foreign exchange earnings. The sector contributes about 14% to industrial production, 4% to the gross domestic product (GDP), and 27% to the country's foreign exchange inflows. It provides direct employment to over 45 million people. The textiles sector is the second largest provider of employment after agriculture. Thus, the growth and all round development of this industry has a direct bearing on the improvement of India's economy.

18 66 India has overtaken Italy, Germany and Bangladesh to emerge as the world's second largest textile exporter. India's share in Global Textiles increased by 17.5% in 2013 compared to Textiles exports from India will touch US$ 300 billion by the year In 2012, apparel had a share of 69 per cent of the overall market; textiles contributed the remaining 31 per cent. 4.6 VARIOUS CATEGORIES Indian textile industry can be divided into several segments; some of which can be listed as below: Cotton - Second largest cotton and cellulosic fibres producing country m the world.

19 67 Silk - India is the second largest producer of silk and contributes about 18% to the total world raw silk production. Wool -India has 3rd largest sheep population in the world, having 6.15 crores sheep, producing 45 million kg of raw wool, and accounting for 3.1% of total world wool production. India ranks 6 th amongst clean wool producer countries and 9 th amongst greasy production. India ranks 6 th amongst clean wool producer countries and 9 th amongst greasy wool producers. In man-made Fibres India is the fourth largest in synthetic fibres /yarns globally. Jute - India is the largest producer and second largest exporter of the jute goods. 4.7 MARKET SIZE The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US $108 billion, is expected to reach US$ 141 billion by The industry is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing direct employment to over 45 million and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 5% to GDP, and 14% to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP). The Indian textile industry has the potential to grow five-fold over the next ten years to touch US$ 500 billion mark on the back of growing demand for polyester fabric. The US$ 500 billion US$ 500 billion mark on die back of growing demand for polyester fabric. Tlie USS 500 billion market figure consists of domestic sales of US$ 315 billion and exports of US$ 185 billion. The current industry size comprises domestic market of US$ 68 billion and exports of US$ 40 billion. Apparel exports from India have

20 68 registered a growth of 17.6% in the period April - September 2014 over the same period in the previous financial year. 4.8 GLOBAL Vs. DOMESTIC SCENARIO The global trade of textile and garments was approximately $781 billion in This is almost 4.6 per cent of the trade of all commodities, which is estimated at approximately $17 trillion. From 2008 to 2013, the global textile and garment trade has grown at a CAGR of 4 per cent. The current global garment market is estimated at approximately $1.15 trillion which form nearly 1.8 per cent of the world GDP. Almost 75% of this market is concentrated in Europe, USA, China and Japan. An analysis of per capita expenditure on garment in various countries shows a significant difference between numbers in developed and developing economies. Within the major markets, India has the lowest per capita expenditure on garment ($37), which is only 3 per cent of the highest one viz. Australia ($1,131). The top five textiles and garment exporting nations are China, India, Italy, Germany and Turkey. China is the single largest exporter with 39 per cent share while India stood at a distant second place with 5 per cent share. The top five textiles and garment importing nations are US, China, Germany, Japan and United Kingdom. USA is the largest importer with a share of 17 per cent of the total global trade. The Indian textile and garment industry has an important presence in the country's economy through its contribution to industrial output, employment generation, and the export earnings. It contributes almost 5% to the $1.8 trillion Indian economy whereas its

21 69 share in Indian exports stands at a significant 13 per cent. India is the second largest exporter of textile and garment goods with a global trade share of approximately 5 per cent. The Indian domestic consumption of textile and garment is valued at US$ 63 billion in Within this, garment retail has the highest share of 73 per cent contributing $46 billion, technical textile contributes $13 billion with a share of 21 per cent and home textiles contribute $4 billion with a 6 per cent share. In 2013, India became second largest exporter of textile and garment in the world surpassing Italy and Germany. India exported textile and garment goods worth $40 billion, with a share of about 5 per cent of global textile and garment trade. In terms of value, Indian textile and garment exports is dominated by garment category, winch has a majority share of 40 per cent followed by yarn, fabrics, fibre, made-ups and other textiles including carpets, nonwovens, etc MAJOR PLAYERS OF THREADS AND YARN PRODUCTION IN INDIA SITARAM SPINNERS PVT. LTD., SECUNDERABAD 5 Corporate Catalyst India Private Limited, A brief report on Textile Industries in India,

22 70 Sitaram Spinners Pvt Ltd. presently manufactures 100% cotton carded, combed and compact yarns in weaving and knitting from 16 to 50 count and also offers BCI certification. Started with manufacturing of core spun spandex yarns from 10 to 50 count in 40D and 70D, will be further adding cotton mélange and synthetic mélange yarns to their port folio Soon. It is equipped with brand Swiss and Germany machinery to produce top grade uster 5% category yarns with a total of 50,000+ spindles SKAAT MACHINE WORKS INDIA PVT LTD, COIMBATORE SKAAT is the manufacturer of World class fancy yarn machineries for spinning mills. SKAAT offers various mechanisms that help to produce slub, multi count, multi twist and multi effects in the yarn. SKAAT Core produces unexpected stretch and recovery in the yarn. SKAAT Injection Slub allows different material to be injected on the base yarn at random, while SKAATT winsafe totally eliminates doubling and winding process, SKAAT Slub tester helps to measure the slub parameters in the yarn.

23 SKY COTEX INDIA PRIVATE LTD., TIRUPUR Sky Cotex - Spinning Division is a manufacturer and supplier of cotton yarn. They have an installed capacity of spindles with a production capacity of about 18,000 kg per day. Products include 100% cotton carded and combed hosiery yarns from Ne 20/1 to 40/1, as well as 100% cotton combed compact yarns and Amster effect - slub yarns. A state-of-the-art plant manned by a dedicated work force produces premium quality yarns SRI BALAVIGNA YARNS, DINDIGUL Balavigna Group offers 100 percent cotton yarns in 6s to 120s, open end yarns in 6s to 30s, carded yarn in 20s, 30s, 40s, carded compact in 40s, 42s, combed yarn in 20s to 100s, combed compact in 30s to 100s, 100% PIMA, GIZA, SUPIMA and blended yarns in polyester/cotton.

24 SUDEEP TEXTILE, COIMBATORE Nylon 6.6 (PA66) lurex metalic yarn from UK besides single / double covered yarns, air covered yarns, hamel elasto twist yarns, conventional twisted yarns, corespun yarns, sirospun yarns, knit de-knit yarns and functional yarns THE LUREX COMPANY LTD. UK For over 70 Years LUREX has been a leading worldwide registered brand for metallic yarns, giving a true guarantee of quality to their customers. Lurex adds 'Brilliance to Fashion'. With their innovative metallic yarns of more than 200 article color collections, they will do very high value addition to one's fabrics and garments. Lurex provides dyeing and mercerisation process guarantee on their yarns which can withstand high temperature and pressure. Lurex is produced at their state of the art technology production plant situated at United Kingdom with stringent quality supervision to meet buyers requirement of Oeko - Tex and other EU testing standards.

25 TRIDENT LTD., SANGHERA Beginning with a modest capacity of only 17,300 spindles in Punjab, the Trident Group presently has a capacity of 365,904 ring spindles, 28,464 melange ring spindles, 3,584 rotors and 3,200 double spindles. Today, the Trident Group has the largest spinning installation at one single campus in India. Their new projected expansion is expected to increase their yarn production capacity to 541,968 spindles and 5,624 rotors VARDHMAN POLYTEX LTD., LUDHIANA With its corporate office at Ludhiana, Punjab, the promoters of Oswal Group have been into the textile business the last 50 years with core competence in spinning. The group is mainly into spinning and dyeing all kinds of yarn in 100 percent cotton and cotton blends under the VPL brand and manufacturing of woven shirting fabric and garments.

26 VARDHMAN TEXTILES LTD., LUDHIANA Vardhman Group is a major integrated textile producer in India. The group portfolio includes manufacturing of yarns, fabrics, sewing threads, garments, fibre and alloy steel. Vardhman Textiles Limited, part of Vardhman Group of Companies, is one of the largest integrated Textile companies in India with over 1.1 million spindles producing a diverse range of quality yarns, approx 575 tons /day. The diverse range of yarns offered by Vardhman include melanges, dyed yarns, slubs, injecta slubs, vortex yarns (grey / dyed), gassed mercerized yarns (melanges, grindles), cellulosic yarns (viscose / modal / micro modal /tencel / bamboo), special fiber blended yarns (with wool / silk / nylon / linen), pima cotton yarns, BCI, organic, Fair Trade Yarns, 100% cotton yarns, compact yarns, open end, polyester cotton yarns, core spun yarns, acrylic yarns (grey / dyed), hand knitting yarns and fancy yarns.

27 VENLON METALLICA INDUSTRIES, BANGALORE VENLON METALLICA INDUSTRIES are manufacturers of metallic yarn, metallic twisted yarn. They provide dyeing guarantee and bleaching guarantee products at reasonable prices. Also they offer Matte finished products, multi twist products and laces in metallics. All products can be provided in any desired color WINSOME TEXTILE INDUSTRIES LTD., CHANDIGARH Winsome Textile Industries Ltd. at Baddi (HP) is a leading manufacturer of Special melange yarns and dyed yarns, catering to high end fashion garment manufacturers all across the Globe. Winsome offers special melange yarns in 100% cotton and blends of polyester, viscose, wool, linen, nylon, modal, etc., and has melange manufacturing capacity of 28 tons/day. Also it offers dyed yarns in 100% cotton, 100% polyester, cotton/polyester, cotton/viscose, cotton/modal, etc., and has dyed yarn manufacturing capacity of 24 tons/day.

28 WINSOME YARNS LTD., CHANDIGARH Melange yarn: They are the first company in India to start producing 100% Cotton Melange Yarn. They are still one of the largest Melange Yarn manufacturers and exporters in all types of shades in 100% Cotton and Cotton blends with Polyester, Viscose, Modal and Bamboo. Raw white yarn: They produce premium quality Organic, BCI, Com4 Compact, Com4 Ring, Combed Cotton in count 20s to 60s, Carded Cotton in count 20s to 30s for Knitting and Weaving GILLANDERS ARBUTHNOT & CO LTD, MUMBAI Melange Yarn: 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% viscose, 100% modal, cotton blends, multi blends, cotton/viscose, cotton/modal, poly/cot., acrylic/polyester, compact, vortex. Speciality Yarn: coloured neppy melange, jaspe yarn /siro yarn, snow heather, (inj. snow / inj. spect ), ice heather melange, clody melange, brilliance melange, flax feel melange, jaspe with nepps, slub melange, neon neppy melange, jaspe with slub yarn, triblend melange, jaspe snow yarn, stripe melange, peacock

29 77 mélange. Raw White: poly/cot. Any blends (vortex & ring frame), cotton/modal, cot./modal with slub, raw white jaspe yarn, Solid Dyed: 100% viscose, 100% polyester, 100% modal, polyester/cotton, acrylic/polyester INDIAN RAYON (ADITYA BIRLA NUVO LTD.), MUMBAI. Raysil (viscose filament yarn) the versatile fashion yarn is available across a wide range from 20 denier to 1200 denier. This range is across pot spun yarn (PSY) available as bright, dull and dope dye yarns, continuous spun yarn (CSY) as bright and dope dyed and super high glue and spool spun yarn (SSY) with high tensile strength, unifoem elongation, high brightness and whiteness. Raysil creates best of a) superfine georgettes, crepes and chiffons, b) fine brasso, shantun, satin, velvet, suit lining, selvedge, ties & knitwear, c) fine and lustrous embroidery threads, and d) home textiles, med-tech(like crepe bandages).

30 THE LAKSHMI MILLS COMPANY LIMITED, COIMBATORE. The company produces 100% cotton yarn, polyester and cotton blended yarn, cvc yarn, modal yarn, tencel yarn, x-static yarn, slub yarn, high twist yarn, parallel yarn, gassed yarn, mercerised yarn. 100% cotton fabric, wider width fabrics, bed linen, uniforms. Industrial fabrics, antimicrobial fabrics, hospital fabrics, knitted fabrics. From the above discussions and details of the yarn and threads the researcher has understood the production process in India and how it has impact on the national economy. The whole production process, type of yarn and threads, major players of yarn production in India, yarn domestic deliveries,and exports are discussed in the present chapter to strengthen the yarn markets prevailing in India.

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