Mount Kinabalu & the Rainforests of Borneo

Transcription

1 Mount Kinabalu & the Rainforests of Borneo Naturetrek 30 September - 20 October 2007 Report compiled by Chris Kehoe Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W:

2 Mount Kinabalu & the Rainforests of Borneo Tour Leader: Chris Kehoe (Naturetrek leader) Osman Assan (local guide) Wang Kong (local guide) Participants: Olga Aardoom Chris Clarke Steve Clarke Adie Collingwood Perran Gay Lorraine Gay Corinne Housechild Roger Housechild Johanna Jernberg Anders Sjaastad Colin Smith Peter Smith Hilary Smith Wyre Thomas Renee Thomas Days 0-1 Sunday 30th September Monday 1st October Outbound to Sandakan via Kuala Lumpur; en route from Sandakan to Danum Valley. Weather: hot, sticky and dry after arrival in Sabah. Group members converged on Sandakan Airport at on October 1st, most having just flown in from Britain via Kuala Lumpur. We quickly boarded a comfortable tour bus and commenced the rather long journey to Danum Valley, our base for the first five nights of the tour. The route initially took us through mile after mile of oil palm monoculture where the paucity of wildlife was all too obvious though some saw our first Bornean endemic in the shape of a White-fronted Falconet as we sped south. After changing buses in Lahad Datu we entered a more varied forest landscape along a logging track where trucks carried out the precious timber in the opposite direction, something which is scheduled to stop completely within the next few months after selective logging ends and the forest here is rested. Arriving at the excellent Borneo Rainforest Lodge a couple of hours after dusk we quickly checked in, settled down for dinner and retired to our beds for some much needed rest. Day 2 Tuesday 2nd October Danum Valley. Weather: hot and sticky, dry. Everyone was up at dawn for our first exploratory walk in the heart of the Danum Valley Conservation Area. A couple of hours strolling along the Access Road before breakfast provided us with some excellent birds including Fluffy-backed Tit Babblers (and five other Babbler species), Black-winged Flycatcher Shrikes, Lesser Cuckooshrikes, Greater and Lesser Green Leafbirds and a Rufous Piculet. Naturetrek January 08 1

3 After breakfast, during which a Blyth s Hawk Eagle appeared briefly over the ridge opposite the lodge, we retraced our steps along the road with the intention of visiting the canopy walkway but progress was slow as birds such as Rhinoceros and Asian Black Hornbills and a Red-billed Malkoha distracted us. Pride of place though went to two Orang-utans that gave some decent scope views while feeding in thick cover, an excellent first morning bonus! We rested for a while on either side of lunch although some ventured onto the Nature Trail near the lodge and found both Red Leaf Monkeys and Bornean Gibbons. In the evening the group split in two to explore some of the narrower jungle trails; Wang Kong led some along the Hornbill Trail, where the obvious highlights were a Blue-headed Pitta and Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher, then back along the Access Road where a Bornean Bristlehead was seen distantly. Others explored the Segama and Sapi Bandradi Trails where no less than three Scarlet-rumped Trogons, a couple of Maroon-breasted Philentomas and various babblers were found. A night drive after dinner produced a couple of Thomas s Flying Squirrels, Lesser Mouse Deer and two brief Porcupines. Day 3 Wednesday 3rd October Danum Valley. Weather: Hot and sticky, dry and bright in the morning but overcast with light rain in the afternoon. We began the day with a pre-breakfast walk along the Access Road again with Raffle s and Chestnut-breasted Malkohas and a Banded Broadbill (the first of three seen today) as our rewards. After breakfast we returned once more to the Access Road but barely got more than a few hundred metres over two hours due to the presence of a large slow moving feeding flock that contained numerous Babblers and Bulbuls (including our only Rufousfronted Babblers), White-bellied Erpornis, several Ruby-cheeked Sunbirds and a single Plain Sunbird amongst others. We also came across many Hornbills of four species. During the lunchbreak a Great-billed Heron was discovered on the river near our rooms and a couple of fruiting trees attracted good numbers of Bulbuls (including the scarce Black-and-white) and several species of Flowerpeckers and others. The threat of a storm curtailed our plans to explore some of the trails in the evening so we returned again to the Access Road and were rewarded with scope views of five Bornean Bristleheads, a fly-by Helmeted Hornbill and a Brown Barbet. Those who were at the restaurant veranda at dusk were lucky to see a Colugo and those who didn t retire to their rooms immediately after dinner were treated to excellent views of a Buffy Fish Owl in trees below the restaurant veranda. Day 4 Thursday 4th October Danum Valley. Weather: Hot and sticky, dry and bright after some early mist. After a breakfast we jumped on the lodge truck which took us to the Access Road gate from where we slowly walked the 5km back to the lodge. At least three White-crowned Forktails showed well feeding along the roadside early on then new birds came thick and fast with the following particularly noteworthy: Thick-billed Green Pigeons, Wallace s Hawk Eagle, Black Eagle, a superb Jambu Fruit Dove at very close range, Banded Bay Cuckoo, three Violet Cuckoos, Red-bearded Bee-eaters in the scope, Crimson-winged and Grey-and-buff Woodpeckers, Large Woodshrike, Crested Jays, Rufous-winged Philentoma and Finsch s Bulbuls. 2 Naturetrek January 08

4 Either side of lunch some time was spent watching the nearby fruiting trees where several Asian Fairy Bluebirds and Streaked and Black-and-white Bulbuls where found among the commoner species present; those who ventured along the nearby Jacuzzi Trail struck gold with Chestnut-naped Forktail and Rufous-collared Kingfisher. Later on we divided into two groups to explore some of the trails. Undoubted highlight this afternoon were a couple of Striped Wren-babblers along the Segama Trail but we had plenty of encounters with previously seen species to keep us going. After dinner, a night drive produced very good views of a Malay Civet amongst others. Day 5 Friday 5th October Danum Valley. Weather: Hot and sticky, dry and bright in the morning, thundery with light rain in the afternoon. The morning was variously spent exploring the Access Road then we went on either the Segama Trail and Jacuzzi Trail or on a more extended hike along the East Trail. Highlight for those who took the more strenuous option were Black-headed Pitta and a Bornean Wren Babbler while the rest enjoyed Abbot s, Black-headed and Short-tailed Babblers and others in a large slow moving mixed feeding flock near the Segama Bridge. Some time spent watching the fruiting trees near the lodge either side of lunch which gave us more views of Jambu Fruit Doves and numerous Bulbuls and others. Our evening walks were along the Danum Trail or Segama and Jacuzzi Trails. As was often the case birding was rather slow in the afternoon but a group of Chestnut-rumped Babblers near the Jacuzzi Pool were new and several previously seen species were encountered again. A night drive before dinner was proving rather uneventful until we came across a very obliging Colugo just before returning to the lodge. Day 6 Saturday 6th October Danum Valley. Weather: hot and sticky, dry and bright. The day began with an early breakfast again and a return to the Access Road gate from where we walked to the main junction and back before making our way slowly to the lodge. Early activity was good with Olive-backed Woodpeckers showing well and Wang Kong s whistled imitations of Black-throated Wren-babblers resulted in multiple flight views at close range and a couple of fleeting views of perched birds. Some other highlights (mostly new for the trip) before we arrived back at the lodge were a brief Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler, both Whitetailed Blue and Verditer Flycatchers, a singing Bornean Blue Flycatcher, Diard s Trogon, Black-headed Bulbuls and a Red-throated Barbet. Back at the lodge the Great-billed Heron reappeared on the river and the fruiting trees produced more views of Jambu Fruit-doves and others including a particularly obliging Banded Broadbill. An evening walk along the Access Road gave us more views of Crested Jays and others but the highlight was a superb male Red-naped Trogon in the scope. Day 7 Sunday 7th October Danum Valley; en route to Sukau via Lahad Datu, Sukau Naturetrek January 08 3

5 Weather: hot and sticky, dry and bright apart from a brief shower mid afternoon. Early risers spent an hour or so along the Jacuzzi Pool Trail before breakfast with Abbot s and Chestnut-rumped Babblers, a group of Crested Jays and a couple of fleeting Chestnut-naped Forktails the pick of the bunch. After breakfast we loaded up the bus and set off for Lahad Datu. Three hours later we stopped for lunch at the Executive Hotel there before pressing on towards Sukau. By mid-afternoon we were travelling along the unmade road towards Sukau and made a couple of brief stops to look at Black-shouldered Kites and a Wallace s Hawk Eagle before transferring by boat across the Lower Kinabatangan River to our base for the next three nights at Sukau Rainforest Lodge. Once we had been allocated rooms, and dropped off our bags, we were back on the river for an evening cruise which produced numerous spectacular Proboscis Monkeys and a succession of waterbirds that would become familiar sights in the coming days. Day 8 Monday 8th October Sepilok; Sepilok to Sukau via Sandakan; Sukau Weather: dry, bright and warm, still. Rain after dark. We began the day with a pre-breakfast cruise along the quiet Sungei Menanggol tributary and were soon seeing some high quality birds. First up were a pair of Storm s Storks but by the time we returned for breakfast a couple of hours later we had added Little Green Pigeons, a White-fronted Falconet, Lesser Fish Eagle, Hooded Pitta and Black Magpie amongst many others. The obvious mammalian highlight was a couple of Orang-utans but Proboscis Monkeys were numerous and several Bearded Pigs were also seen. Between breakfast and lunch at there was ample time to explore the excellent boardwalk right behind the lodge which resulted in the discovery of several species of Babblers, a couple of Maroon Woodpeckers and an obliging Scarlet-rumped Trogon. Trees near the restaurant held Long-tailed Parakeets and a Grey-streaked Flycatcher. An evening cruise took us far upriver and produced essentially similar wetland species to those seen previously, albeit in rather larger numbers, but Proboscis Monkeys, Silver Leaf Monkeys and Long-tailed Macaques all performed, Storm s Storks showed particularly well, as did several stunning Black-and-red Broadbills. Day 9 Tuesday 9th October Sukau and Gomantong Caves Weather: dry bright and warm with light showers at lunch and around dusk A return visit to the Sungei Menanggol for two hours before breakfast again proved productive. In addition to several species seen yesterday, two White-crowned Hornbills and a Diard s Trogon were found and a Hooded Pitta gave some superb views. Back at the lodge a considerable time was devoted to trying to locate a close calling Black-headed Pitta (one of three calling in the area today) before it was eventually tracked down sitting unexpectedly high up in a tree almost above the boardwalk where it showed well for many minutes. After lunch we took a short boat ride to Sukau Village before driving for 30 minutes to Gomantong Caves. An hour or so was spent exploring the rich forest along the entrance road which provided us with some excellent views of Buff-necked Woodpecker, Black-bellied Malkoha and others. 4 Naturetrek January 08

6 Most of the group accompanied Osman around the internal boardwalk at the cave, near which an Orang-utan was briefly seen, to experience the sight and smell of the huge guano mound produced by legions of bats and its attendant hordes of cockroaches but we soon regrouped near the visitors centre to watch the bats emerge and the predators that gathered to hunt them: one or two Peregrines of the very dark and uncommon race ernestii and at least six Bat Hawks. Later, as we were returning to the lodge by boat a Buffy Fish Owl crossed the river in the half-light of dusk. A night cruise after dinner was fairly quiet but provided views of Flying Foxes and a selection of roosting birds. Day 10 Wednesday 10th October En route to Sepilok; Sepilok. Weather: Mostly dry and bright with some light showers early afternoon. Heavy rain around dusk. Prior to our departure for Sandakan there was time for some pre-breakfast birding along the boardwalk where both Ferruginous and Abbot s Babblers showed well but pride of place went to a magnificent Black-headed Pitta that showed to perfection bouncing along right next to the boardwalk. The three hour boat ride to Sandakan was largely uneventful until near the end when very calm conditions made it practical to take a more direct offshore route that produced a handful of Lesser Frigatebirds and a few terns including Great Crested. From Sandakan it was only a short journey to Sepilok where we checked-in at the Sepilok Nature Resort before visiting the nearby Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre for superb views of up to 10 semi-wild Orangs. Back at the lodge a fruiting tree held our attention for a good while and produced great views of various Sunbirds, Flowerpeckers and Blue-eared Barbets. Day 11 Thursday 11th October Sukau to Danum Valley via Lahad Datu. Weather: Dry and bright, warm Much of today was spent travelling to our next base at Mount Kinabalu but pre-breakfast birding near the hotel produced excellent results: a Yellow-eared Spiderhunter or two gave repeated views, Scarlet-rumped Flowerpeckers showed well and the fruiting tree at the hotel held masses of birds including up to four rarely seen Brown-backed Flowerpeckers and a Copper-throated Sunbird. After breakfast we loaded the bus and set off westwards. A short leg stretch allowed us to get a White-fronted Falconet in the scope before Osman received a text message that a smallholding along our route had a newly opened Rafflesia Keethii on show; we visited this just before lunch at a roadside café. By mid-afternoon we had checked-in at the Fairy Garden Resort just outside Kinabalu National Park. Heavy rain meant that during our first visit to the park we concentrated on what could be seen from the Liwagu Restaurant s covered veranda. Chestnut-capped Laughing-thrushes were prominent and we also noted Temminck s Sunbirds and Bornean Whistlers and others before the light began to fade. Day 12 Kinabalu Park. Friday 12th October Weather: Dry and quite bright, rather warm, heavy rain after dark Naturetrek January 08 5

7 Our first morning at Kinabalu National Park dawned a little dull and drizzly but not enough to seriously hamper birding. Before breakfast at the Liwagu Restaurant we notched up a good selection of new species in the immediate vicinity including Chestnut-capped Yuhinas, Grey-chinned Minivets, Gold-naped Barbet, Blackcapped white-eyes Ashy Bulbuls, Black-and-crimson Orioles, Spangled Drongos and Black-sided Flowerpeckers. After breakfast we set off up the Power Station Road above the restaurant and soon began to encounter more new birds, highlights before we returned for lunch included a couple of obliging Mountain Wren Babblers, a small covey of elusive Red-breasted Partridges and Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher and Snowy-browed Flycatcher. After lunch, during which several species were seen around the restaurant, we returned to the Power Station road and enjoyed more views of the local Laughingthrushes with several Mountain Leaf and Yellow-breasted Warblers and other local specialities such as Indigo and Little Pied Flycatchers showing well. Day 13 Kinabalu Park. Saturday 13th October Weather: Dry and quite bright, rather warm after a misty start. We began the day with a visit to the Timpohon Gate, the highest elevation that can be reached by road. Good numbers of birds were around the power station compound there with Sunda and Chestnut-capped Laughingthrushes very prominent, a Temminck s Babbler or two showed well and a couple of Short-tailed Green Magpies adding a splash of colour. Flavescent Bulbuls were at their lowest altitudinal limit here as were a couple of fleetingly seen Mountain Black-eyes. We walked part way down the road towards the restaurant before being picked up by the bus and saw a Bornean Whistling Thrush briefly. Immediately after breakfast we began a vigil for Whitehead s Spiderhunter near the restaurant and after about 15 minutes one duly appeared on a favoured bare treetop and remained in view just long enough for all those present to have a couple of quick looks in the scope. We then drove back up towards the Timpohon Gate, most of the group opting to accompany Osman along the Bukit Ular Trail before rendezvousing with the rest at the gate. The Bukit Ular came up trumps with a couple of Whitehead s Trogons and we had repeat views of several species seen earlier. An extended lunch break at the Liwagu Restaurant allowed time for some to do some independent birding along the nearby trails with a White-browed Shortwing and a Crimson-headed Partridge at the Silau Silau Trail the pick of the bunch. At we set off to explore the southern section of the Mempening Trail where sightings of Whitehead s Broadbills had been fairly regular in the preceding weeks. After about half an hour a pair of Broadbills duly appeared and one remained around for over five minutes, allowing itself to be scoped. Little else was seen but we had succeeded in seeing all three of the (in)famous Whitehead s trio in one day so could relax and enjoy a pleasant stroll back towards the waiting bus. Day 14 Kinabalu Park; Mesilau. Weather: Dry and quite bright, rather warm Sunday 14th October A return visit to the Timpohon Gate gave us more views of several species previously seen and those who explored the Bukit Ular Trail with Osman briefly saw to Whitehead s Broadbill and others. 6 Naturetrek January 08

8 A couple of Whitehead s Trogons were seen along the Mempening Trail while a large flock of Laughingthrushes contained a couple of Checker-throated Woodpeckers. As it was the weekend Kinabalu Park was rather busy by lunchtime so we left there to visit Mesilau, forty minutes away, and comparable to the Timpohon Gate in elevation. On arrival at Mesilau we had lunch at the lodge where a couple of Bornean Whistling Thrushes were on view along the stream just outside. After lunch Osman and a local guide led half of the group in search of Pitcher Plants on one of the trails and succeeded in finding four species. Others concentrated on birding around the lodge and chalets and found a couple of White-browed Shortwings (including one uncharacteristically obliging male), several Flavescent Bulbuls, two Gold-naped Barbets and a Checker-throated Woodpecker. Day 15 Poring Hot Springs. Monday 15th October Weather: Dry and bright in the morning, wet in the evening, warm A change of scene today as we boarded the bus at for the 40 minute drive to Poring Hot Springs for a chance to see a range of mid altitude species. Much of the morning was spent in a small grove not far from the hustle and bustle of the hot springs. Rain hampered us here, though it was far worse higher up the mountain so we were glad to have missed that and found a newly built shelter in which to escape the worst of the downpour. A Mountain Imperial Pigeon showed well and Plain Flowerpeckers were new but there was no sign of the hoped for Hose s Broadbills, though in truth it was always a bit of a long shot! After an extended lunch break at the hot springs restaurant the weather finally cleared and we had a productive couple of hours birding along the road past the chalets. A Red-billed Malkoha was the first seen by most of the group and Scaly-breasted Bulbuls and White-bellied Warblers were new for all as was a Greater racket-tailed Drongo, there was generally plenty to look at before the rain returned and we decided to set off back to the Fairy Garden. Day 16 Tuesday 16th October Kinabalu Park; en route to Kota Kinabalu via Kota Belud Weather, dry and bright, warm with a few short showers in the afternoon A final morning at Kinabalu Park began at dawn at the Timpohon Gate, some choosing to explore the Bukit Ular Trail while others lingering near the Power station where a feeding flock of hitherto elusive Mountain Black-eyes finally gave themselves up. A good selection of previously seen species included excellent views of Short-tailed Magpies and some very tame Flavescent Bulbuls. Highlight along the Bukit Ular trail was four Bornean Stubtails, the first we had seen. After breakfast, and in glorious sunshine, there was time for a couple of hours independent birding allowing people the chance to explore the nearby trails without the disturbance associated with a larger group and increasing the chances of seeing some of the shyer species; both Crimson-headed Partridge and White-browed Shortwing again showed along the Silau Silau Trail. After some final packing we had lunch at the Fairy Garden before making our way towards the lowlands. The itinerary this year gave us some free time so we took the opportunity to visit the wetlands of Kota Belud en route to Kota Kinabalu. Naturetrek January 08 7

9 A couple of hours were spent here, most in the vicinity of some productive rice-field habitat where waders included numerous Wood and Marsh Sandpipers with small numbers of Red-necked and Long-toed Stints. Bitterns were a prominent feature too with several Yellows and Cinnamons seen and a single Black Bittern in flight. An Osprey here was the only one seen on the tour, as was a single Pied Triller, some Striated Grassbirds and a brief Oriental Pratincole. We arrived in Kota Kinabalu at 19.00, checked into the rather luxurious Shangrila Hotel then went out for dinner at a nearby Chinese Restaurant. Day 17 Wednesday 17th October En route to Pulau Tiga via Kuala Penyu; Pulau Tiga Weather: generally bright and sunny, rather warm but cooler in a stiff breeze in the afternoon, heavy rain overnight. We left the hotel at on the two hour drive to Kuala Penyu from where a 30 minute boat ride would take us to Pula Tiga for a one night stay. A shortage of working boats at Pulau Tiga meant an hour delay on the jetty at Kuala Penyu but this did provide some birding and Collared Kingfishers, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Eurasian Curlew (the only one seen) and our first, albeit distant, Chinese Egret were seen before we set off. After checking-in and lunch at the Pulau Tiga Resort, several of the group set off to investigate the mangrove-lined lagoon to the east which often holds a few waders and rewards came in the shape of four Chinese Egrets and a scattering of Grey-tailed Tattlers and others while a Red-throated Pipit was found on the football field near there and a couple of Changeable Hawk Eagles were seen flying around. At Osman led a trek along some of the Island trails where four Tabon Scrubfowl were briefly seen. Others returned to the lagoon area and found a succession of interesting birds. Migrants were more in evidence now than earlier with two Blue-and-white Flycatchers and a Grey-streaked Flycatcher found and diligent checking of the flocks of Asian Glossy Starlings gathering in bare treetops produced prize finds in the shape of a Purplenaped Starling and a real rarity in the form of a Eurasian Starling (first for Borneo!). A further highlight was a male Chinese Sparrowhawk before we went in search of Scrubfowl as dusk began to fall. In the event no Scrubfowl were seen but compensation came in the shape of two Mangrove Blue-Flycatchers. Day 18 Thursday 18th October Pulau Tiga; en route to Kota Kinabalu via Kuala Penyu and Papar ricefields Weather: bright and sunny with light showers in the afternoon and heavy rain after dark. A dawn vigil for Tabon Scrubfowl along the trails behind our rooms proved successful with one bird showing well and others glimpsed briefly. At the lagoon no fewer than 10 Purple-naped Starlings were found (perhaps as many as had previously been recorded on Borneo in total before) and a Paddyfield Pipit and two Red-throated Pipits were on the football field. After breakfast half the group set off to Snake Island where they were shown the recently discovered Yellowlipped Sea Kraits there and a Brown Hawk Owl was a surprise migrant. Others continued to explore the lagoon and resort area and turned up a few more migrants including Asian Brown Flycatchers and our only Ruddy Turnstone. 8 Naturetrek January 08

10 After lunch we caught a boat back to Kuala Penyu then drove back to Kota Kinabalu with an extended stop en route to look at the ricefields near Papar. Huge flocks of Wood Sandpipers were in evidence and amongst them we picked out small numbers of Long-toed and Red-necked Stints, a Ruff, a Common Redshank and a couple of Common Greenshanks amongst others but the highlight was three Greater Painted Snipes. Day 19 Friday 19th October Tambunan area/ Gunung Esma; en route to UK via Kota Kinabalu and Kuala Lumpur Weather, dry, bright and warm though with some light rain early afternoon. Several of the group opted for a lie-in and the chance to do a little shopping in Kota Kinabalu before our evening flight to Kuala Lumpur so just a small band of enthusiasts set off at for Tambunan in the Crocker Range south of Mount Kinabalu. A very brief stop at the Rafflesia Reserve entrance confirmed there were no fruiting trees in evidence there so we pressed on to a small clearing a couple of kilometres further along the road. A couple of hours here and along the roadside back towards the Rafflesia Reserve produced a succession of excellent speciality birds. First of these was a superb Mountain Serpent Eagle that put on a fine display but soon after we were watching Bornean Bulbuls moving through the trees and a Mountain Barbet was glimpsed. A fruiting tree along the roadside came up trumps with a small flock of Bornean (Blue-winged) Leafbirds, another Mountain Barbet and, best of all, a couple of Bornean Barbets that posed well for the scope. Also seen before we made our way back to the Rafflesia Reserve were three Blyth s Hawk Eagles, a showy Gold-whiskered Barbet and several Mountain Imperial Pigeons. Forty minutes around the car park at the Rafflesia Reserve entrance produced a brief Besra and several more Bornean Barbets and Leafbirds as we enjoyed last looks at Black-sided Flowerpeckers and other upland species. A few kilometres back along the road we made an extended visit to the café at Gunung Esma (where we were having lunch) and stood on the veranda watching birds move through the treetops at eye level, Black-capped White-eyes and Chestnut-crested Yuhinas showed well, as did Indigo and Asian Brown Flycatchers but the undoubted and most unexpected highlight was a male Black-breasted Fruithunter that perched briefly on a dead tree. Rain set in at so we had lunch and made our way back to Kota Kinabalu well satisfied with our morning s haul. After a few hours to freshen up and pack we left the Shangri La Hotel at and paid a brief visit to Tanjung Aru, a coastal park and café near the airport, where Blue-naped Parrots and others were seen before we said our goodbyes to Osman and checked-in. Our flight to Kuala Lumpur left on time and we had a couple of hours in transit there before the flight to London left just after midnight. Day 20 Saturday 20th October Arrived London Heathrow 05.40am Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek January 08 9

11 Systematic Lists BIRDS Species order, nomenclature and taxonomy generally follow Mackinnon and Phillipps A Fieldguide to the Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java and Bali (OUP) Changes are followed when these are accepted by Birdlife International or the Handbook of the Birds of the World. LO indicates that a species was only seen by the tour leader or guides; NL indicates that neither leader nor guide saw it. Species only heard or not conclusively identified are placed in square brackets, as are LO species and anything seen by group members when undertaking unscheduled activities. Endemic species are marked E after the scientific name and endemic subspecies e Tabon Scrubfowl Megapodius cumingii pusillus A total of at least six individuals were recorded over two days on Pulau Tiga with one in particular showing very well before breakfast Red-breasted Partridge Arborophila hyperythra E Three encounters, involving at least seven individuals, represented a good haul at Kinabalu Park [Chestnut-necklaced Partridge Arborophila charltonii graydoni One was seen briefly at Danum Valley by Osman only and others were heard but not seen at Sukau] Crimson-headed Partridge Haematortyx sanguiniceps E One was seen on two occasions along the Silau Silau and another on the Bukit Ular Trail at Kinabalu Park Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygne javanica About 20 flew around in the distance at Kota Belud and a flock of 12 Whistling-ducks that flew over at Sukau at dusk may also have been this species [Eurasian Teal Anas crecca crecca One flew past the lodge at Sukau early one morning (LO)] Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis One was on a small roadside lake near Gomantong as we travelled from Lahad Datu to Sukau; this is a rare species in Borneo, indeed Mackinnon and Phillipps mention only one record Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster After a couple at Danum Valley up to 20 per day were seen during our cruises at Sukau. A handful were at Kota Belud and, more unusually, one was near Snake Island off Pulau Tiga Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel About 10 Frigatebirds near Sandakan as we travelled there from Sukau were at least mostly this species (the males certainly were) and a male was over Pulau Tiga where a couple more of unidentified birds were seen. Lesser Frigatebird is by the far the commonest species in Bornean waters 10 Naturetrek January 08

12 Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana One was along the Segama River near the lodge at Danum Valley on three dates Purple Heron Ardea purpurea One was at Sukau, two over Kota Belud and another near Papar as we travelled along Striated Heron Butorides striatus Singles were seen at Danum valley, Sukau and Kuala Penyu Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis coromandus Locally common in areas of cleared oil palms with concentrations in a few wetland areas too. About five migrants were on Pulau Tiga. Asiatic populations are increasingly regarded as a separate species from those in Europe and Africa, they differ markedly in structure and breeding plumage. Chinese Egret Egretta eulophotes One on a mud bank at Kuala Penyu was rather distant but four at the tidal lagoon on Pulau Tiga showed much better Great Egret Casmerodius albus modestus Up to 20 per day were seen at Sukau with smaller numbers at a few other sites, especially in the ricefields near Papar Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia Dozens were in the rice fields at Kota Belud and Papar, others may have been overlooked elsewhere, as not all Egrets were closely scrutinised, but this is a rather localised species Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta Common in ricefields at Kota Belud and Papar with smaller numbers seen at several other places; all those examined closely showed the yellow feet of the migrant subspecies garzetta though a few dark toed resident nigripes might also have been present Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Two flew over at dusk at a petrol station between Kota Belud and Kota Kinabalu Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis At least four were at Kota Belud Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus At least four or five were at Kota Belud with three more were seen from the moving bus near Papar Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis One was seen distantly in flight at Kota Belud Naturetrek January 08 11

13 Storm's Stork Ciconia stormi At least five were at Sukau, the only regular site for this rare species; two gave repeated good views at and around the Sungei Menanggol with others seen well upstream Osprey Pandion haliaetus One was over the wetlands at Kota Belud Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus ssp Singles were seen briefly at Kinabalu Park and at the nearby Fairy Garden Hotel, both were perhaps most likely of the migratory subspecies orientalis rather than resident torquatus or ptilorhynchus Bat Hawk Machaeramphus alcinus At least five or six picked off bats leaving their roost at Gomantong Caves, most were seen in their leisurely hunting flight but one perched a couple of times in a crag top tree and gave reasonable scope views Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Two along the road near Gomantong Caves were followed by a couple more at Papar ricefields Brahminy Kite Haliastur indicus Up to three per day were seen at Sukau with about six seen at coastal sites during the final days of the tour, a few others were noted as we travelled between sites in the lowlands White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Singles at Sukau and Kuala Penyu were followed by a couple on Pulau Tiga and nearby Snake Island Lesser Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga humilis At least two were regularly seen along Sungei Menanggol t Sukau, another small Fish Eagle, either this species of Grey-headed Fish Eagle I. ichthyaetus was seen briefly at Danum Valley Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela pallidus At least one or two were seen and heard most days at Danum Valley and Sukau with a couple more at Sepilok Mountain Serpent Eagle Spilornis kinabaluensis E One showed well in flight near Tambunan for ten minutes, allowing its very dark body plumage, thick white tail band and relatively subdued greyish wing bands to be observed; a rare and poorly known species. The wingquivering display flight observed does not appear to be described in the literature, i.e. Ferguson-lees Raptors of the World. Besra Accipiter virgatus rufotibialis One was seen briefly at the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus The eight noted were divided between Danum Valley, Sukau and Kinabalu Park, some were seen in their wing shivering display flight at Sukau 12 Naturetrek January 08

14 Chinese Goshawk/ Sparrowhawk Accipiter soloensis A male was seen in flight and briefly perched at Pulau Tiga Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Three were recorded at Danum Valley Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraatus kienerii A perched bird was visible from the restaurant at Sepilok Nature Resort and gave quite good scope views Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus cirrhatus Three were on Pulau Tiga Blyth's Hawk Eagle Spizaetus alboniger Singles were over Danum Valley and Kinabalu Park and on our final morning three showed very well overhead near Tambunan Wallace's Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nanus Three or four were at Danum Valley with a couple more at Sukau White-fronted Falconet Microhierax latifrons E Singles were seen at the Sungei Menanggol at Sukau on successive mornings and another was watched rather distantly from the roadside between Sandakan and Kinabalu Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus calidus and ernestii One of the rare local race ernestii was feeding on bats at Gomantong Caves and a migrant adult (race calidus/ japonicus ) sat on a pylon at Papar ricefields White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus After a few brief birds at scattered wetlands this species proved to be common and rather conspicuous at Papar ricefields Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis Three were found at Papar ricefields Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva At least 20 were seen at Kota Belud Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius About 10 were at Kota Belud and one at Papar [Plover species Charadrius sp. An odd looking bird at Pulau Tiga lagoon was studied at length and somewhat tentatively identified as a Kentish Plover C. alexandrinus. Compared to a normal Kentish Plover however it showed some odd features in plumage, bare part and structure. The head looked rather large and blocky, the bill rather heavy, the legs rather long and Naturetrek January 08 13

15 pale (dull greyish green) and the face pattern was rather dull with pale lores but a bold pale forehead patch. In several respects it more closely resembled a Lesser Sandplover than a Kentish Plover though it was clearly not that species due to the clear white collar on the hindneck. The possibility that a previously undescribed species of Kentish-like Plover exists in SE Asia has now been raised and given the unusual appearance of our bird its continued identification as a definite Kentish Plover seems unsafe. (see: Greater Sandplover Charadrius leschenaulti leschenaulti A handful of very distant birds were visible from the jetty at Kuala Penyu, up to four showed well at Pulau Tiga lagoon and at least twenty were along the rocky coast west of the resort there Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata orientalis One or two were on the mud at Kuala Penyu Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus variegatus At least 30 were at Pulau Tiga with a few more at Kuala Penyu Common Redshank Tringa totanus One was at the Papar ricefields Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis About 30 at Kota Belud were followed by about 20 at Papar ricefields Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Two were seen at Papar ricefields Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Up to 50 at Kota Belud were eclipsed by at least 600 at Papar ricefields Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Ones and twos were seen at several sites and Pulau Tiga held about 10 Grey-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes At least 10 were at Pulau Tiga Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres One was found at Pulau Tiga Snipe species Gallinago sp. At least three were seen in flight at Kota Belud, three very similar species occur in Borneo: Common G. gallinago, Pintail G. stenura and Swinhoe s Snipe G. megala; they require prolonged and detailed study to separate Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis Half a dozen were noted at Kota Belud and at least eight were at Papar ricefields 14 Naturetrek January 08

16 Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta Up to 10 were at Kota Belud and Papar ricefields Ruff Philomachus pugnax One was seen briefly at Papar ricefields Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Ricefields at Kota Belud and Papar each held between 10 and 20, although it is described as a vagrant in the literature such numbers are quite normal at these sites Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum One was briefly seen in flight at Kota Belud (NL) Whiskered Tern Childonias hybridus Dozens were found at Kota Belud and near Papar after a few were seen earlier at and near Sukau White-winged Black Tern Childonias leucopterus Six were briefly present at Kota Belud Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica Only seen at Kuala Penyu where about six were noted at the estuary as we came and went from Pulau Tiga Common Tern Sterna hirundo A handful were seen near Sandakan as we travelled by boat from Sukau Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii A handful near Sandakan were followed by another near Kuala Penyu Thick-billed Pigeon Treron curvirostra Four were seen briefly at Danum Valley Little Green Pigeon Treron olax Small flocks (up to 10 birds) were seen several times at Sukau and a couple associated with the next species in a fruiting tree at Sepilok Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans Up to 40 fed in a fruiting tree at Sepilok early in the morning and smaller numbers were seen in Kota Kinabalu and on Pulau Tiga Jambu Fruit Dove Ptilinopus jambu A splendid male showed very well at close range near the canopy walkway at Danum Valley and a more skittish pair were in a fruiting tree near the Segama bridge there on successive dates Naturetrek January 08 15

17 Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea A handful at Danum Valley were followed by larger numbers at Sukau; many flew to roost over Kota Kinabalu on our final afternoon Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia A couple of brief views at Poring Hot Springs preceded good views of about 10 near Tambunan Ruddy Cuckoo-dove Macropygia emiliana Small numbers were seen daily at Kinabalu Park and a couple more flew past at Poring Hot Springs and Tambunan. Formerly considered a subspecies of Brown Cuckoo-dove M. amboinensis but now split, also occurs in Indonesia beyond Borneo Little Cuckoo-dove Macropygia ruficeps Small numbers were noted at Kinabalu Park, where a couple were seen perched, and near Tambunan Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis tigrina Small numbers were seen on seven dates as we travelled between sites or in built up areas Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Three were seen in flight at Danum Valley Zebra Dove Geopelia striata A couple were seen at Kota Belud. Also known as Peaceful Dove Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda A total of about 20 were seen over two dates at Sukau where some fed in trees near the lodge restaurant Blue-rumped Parrot Psittinus cyanurus Four were seen in flight at Danum Valley and others were heard there Blue-naped Parrot Tanygnathus lucionensis At least 15 were at Tanjung Aru near Kota Kinabalu just before we went to the airport. Although the field guide reports that birds here and elsewhere in Sabah are thought to originate from feral stock there seems to be no firm basis for this assumption Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot Loriculus galgulus Small numbers were regularly seen flying over at Danum Valley and Sukau before a couple of perched birds finally showed well at Sepilok [Large Hawk Cuckoo Cuculus sparveroides Several were heard but not seen near Tambunan] Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus concretus One showed very well in the grounds of Sukau Rainforest Lodge where it was also heard calling next day 16 Naturetrek January 08

18 Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii One showed quite briefly but very well along the Access Road at Danum Valley Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus threnodies A calling bird was seen briefly in flight at Gomantong Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus Three showed very well along the Access Road at Danum Valley on one morning only Black-bellied Malkoha Phaenicophaeus diardi borneensis One showed well along the road to Gomantong Caves Raffles's Malkoha Phaenicophaeus chlorophaeus fuscigularis A total of 10 were recorded with ones and twos at Danum Valley and Sukau on a few dates and one at Poring Hot Springs Red-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus javanicus One was seen briefly at Danum Valley (before we were distracted by two Orang-utans) but another showed very well at Poring Hot Springs Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris microrhinus A total of seven were recorded at Danum Valley and Sukau Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis Singles were noted at Danum Valley and Sukau with three at Kota Belud and a couple more along roadsides as we travelled between sites [Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus Perran and Lorraine chanced upon one along the Liwagu Trail at Kinabalu Park while doing there own thing, they even got some decent photos!] Buffy Fish Owl Ketupa ketupu One gave great torchlight views below the veranda of Borneo Rainforest Lodge one evening but on subsequent evenings remained out of sight calling on the other side of the river, another flew across the Kinabatangan River at dusk as we returned from Gomantong Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata One, presumably a migrant, was on Snake Island off Pulau Tiga Swiftlet species Collocalia sp Large numbers of unidentified swiftlets were seen at most sites. When not attending their characteristic nests identification is not recommended but the following species must have been present: Edible-nest Swiftlet C. fucifaga (most of the larger Swiflets visiting the lake at Sepilok were probably this species); Black-nest Swiftlet C.maxima (this is the commonest species nesting in limestone areas such as Gomantong and most of the larger Naturetrek January 08 17

19 swiftlets there were probably this species); Mossy-nest Swiftlet C. salangana. Some large and seemingly all dark swiftlets seen rather distantly over Kinabalu Park may have been Giant Swiflets Hydrochous gigas which has regularly been reported there in recent years Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia or Aerodramus esculenta Common almost everywhere but absent at Kinabalu Park, where it is replaced by the similar Cave Swiftlet, and on Pulau Tiga Cave Swiflet Colloalia linchi The small, fluttery, pale-bellied, dark rumped and essentially Glossy-like Swiflets that are common inside Kinabalu Park are all believed to be this species now Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus One or two were seen in the vicinity of the canopy walkway at Danum valley on several occasions and four showed well on two days at Pulau Tiga Silver-rumped Needletail Rhaphidura leucopygialis Regularly seen at Danum Valley but the best views were over the lake at Sepilok Nature Resort where a dozen or more came to drink Little Swift Apus affinis Only seen in Kota Kinabalu where about 20 were noted at the Shangri La Hotel and at Tanjung Aru Park Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis At least eight were recorded on Pulau Tiga Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis Frequently seen soaring around at Danum Valley with a few more at Sepilok Whiskered Treeswift Hemiprocne comata comata Small numbers were at Danum Valley and Gomantong, a couple of perched individuals posed well for the scope Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba impavidus A male showed well during our final evening walk along the Access Road at Danum Valley Diard's Trogon Harpactes diardii A female was near the entrance gate at Danum Valley and a calling male showed briefly but well along the Sungei Menanggol at Sukau Whitehead s Trogon Harpactes whiteheadi E Pairs were seen on two occasions at Kinabalu Park, on the Bukit Ular and Mempening (north) Trails, the latter included an obliging individual that posed for the scope, stunning! 18 Naturetrek January 08

20 Scarlet-rumped Trogon Harpactes duvaucelii At least five at Danum Valley were followed by two at Sukau and another at Gomantong Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting verreauxii One at Danum Valley was followed by at least five at Sukau Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx (erithacus) erithacus and rufidorsa Four were at Danum Valley and two at Sukau. Birds were seen that resembled two forms, black-backed erithacus and rufous-backed rufidorsa (one at Danum Valley). Several authors treat these as distinct species but many birds in Borneo appear intermediate in appearance which calls this treatment into question Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis capensis or javana One or two were regularly along the river at Borneo Rainforest Lodge, at least seven were at Sukau and a couple more at Pulau Tiga Collared Kingfisher Todirhamphus chloris A handful were seen along wires as we drove through oil palm plantations but better views were had of six at Kuala Penyu and Pulau Tiga Rufous-collared Kingfisher Actenoides concretus One was along the Jacuzzi Trail at Danum Valley (NL) Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis viridis Four at Danum Valley were followed by regular encounters at Sukau where at least 10 were noted Red-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis amictus One posed for the scope at Danum Valley where a second individual was seen more briefly Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis Up to 20 were seen at Sukau and a couple were on Pulau Tiga Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus galeritus About 20 at Danum Valley were followed by a similar number at Sukau White-crowned Hornbill Aceros comatus A pair were seen quite briefly but at close range along the Sungei Menanggol at Sukau Wrinkled Hornbill Aceros corrugatus corrugatus Up to three per day were seen at Danum Valley and up to six per day at Sukau Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus One was seen at Danum Valley and two at Sukau Naturetrek January 08 19

21 Asian Black Hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus Up to 15 at Danum Valley were followed by a similar number at Sukau and Gomantong Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris convexus Two were seen at Danum Valley but up to 30 per day were found at Sukau, at least 10 were on Pulau Tiga Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros Two pairs at least were in the vicinity of the Access Road at Danum Valley and gave repeated good views, a further six were seen at Sukau and Gomantong; heard but not seen at Sepilok Helmeted Hornbill Buceros vigil Birds gave spectacular fly-past views on four occasions at Danum Valley and a couple were seen perched there rather briefly Gold-whiskered Barbet Megalaima chrysopogon chrysopsis One at Danum Valley was followed by another near Tambunan, several more were heard Red-throated Barbet Megalaima mystacophanos Singles were seen on three occasions at Danum Valley, many more were heard there and elsewhere Mountain Barbet Megalaima monticola E At least two were seen well on our final morning near Tambunan and several more were heard Golden-naped Barbet Megalaima pucherrima Two at Kinabalu Park were followed by another couple at Mesilau, many more were heard in the higher hills Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis After the first was seen excavating a hole at Sukau Rainforest Lodge at least three showed very well while attending a fruiting tree at Sepilok, others were heard at several lowland sites Bornean Barbet Megalaima exima E At least three were seen near Tambunan, a good showing for this difficult endemic Bornean Brown Barbet Calorhamphus fuliginosus tertius A handful at Danum Valley were followed by up to 10 at Sepilok where we had good views of birds around the fruiting tree there. This distinctive subspecies is a potential split from mainland forms Rufous Piculet Sasia abnormis abnormis Four were recorded at Danum Valley Crimson-winged Woodpecker Picus puniceus observandus Singles were seen twice at Danum Valley 20 Naturetrek January 08