THE PANTANAL & INTERIOR BRAZIL TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 THE PANTANAL & INTERIOR BRAZIL 6 27 SEPTEMBER 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADER: MARK VAN BEIRS The rare and enigmatic Brazilian Merganser was the obvious highlight of our recent Pantanal and Interior Brazil tour. Not only because we saw it so well, just after dawn on its atmospheric stretch of misty river in the Serra da Canastra, but probably also because it took till the last morning there to find it. Admiring incomparable, purplish-blue Hyacinth Macaws flapping lazily over the open meadows of the Pantanal left another indelible impression on the retinas of all participants, while a magnificent Maned Wolf trotting over the savanna at Canastra was the mammal climax of the trip. On this celebrated tour we visited the heaving marshes of the Pantanal, the untouched southern Amazonian rainforests of the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve, the magnificent cerrado and gallery woodland of the Chapada dos Guimarães, the rolling grasslands of the Serra da Canastra and the rocky outcrops of the Serra do Cipó. We recorded 529 species of birds including marvels like Masked Duck, Chestnut-bellied Guan, Bare-faced and Razor-billed Curassows, Zigzag Heron, Tiny Hawk, Red-legged Seriema, Golden-capped and Crimson-bellied Parakeets, Kawall s and Red-fan Parrots, Hyacinth Visorbearer, Dot-eared Coquette, Brown-banded Puffbird, Black-girdled Barbet, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Glossy Antshrike, Collared Crescentchest, Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant, Streamer-tailed and Cock-tailed Tyrants, Pompadour Cotinga, Fiery-capped and Snow-capped Manakins, Whitenaped Xenopsaris, Red-billed Pied Tanager, Coal-crested Finch and Rose-breasted Chat. In addition, we logged 27 mammal species including Giant Anteater, Southern Tamandua, Giant Otter and Brazilian Tapir and also found an impressive Yellow Anaconda and a Red-tailed Boa. We also greatly appreciated the Brazilian hospitality, the tasty food and the yummy caipirinhas. The tour started in earnest as soon as we left Cuiabá, the capital of the large state of Mato Grosso. From the beginning of the Transpantaneira, the dirt road that bisects the northern part of the famous Pantanal, we stopped at regular intervals and were getting a good idea of things to come. The highlight of this introductory bout of birding was the exquisite Hyacinth Macaw. Several pairs showed very well, both perched and in flight. Being able to observe these splendid deep blue creatures at close range was one of the focal points of the tour. A pair of Chestnut-bellied Guans were found feeding in a fruiting tree and allowed great scope studies. At the shrinking pools we observed an excellent variety of storks, herons, egrets, ibises and caimans. Amongst the more common and widespread species we appreciated the presence of many 1 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

2 Jabirus, several Capped and Whistling Herons and a few Plumbeous Ibises. The open meadows, scrubby areas and bits of gallery woodland yielded goodies like Greater Rhea, Muscovy Duck, Chaco Chachalaca, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Snail Kite, Black-collared and Savanna Hawks, a beautiful pair of Crane Hawks, lots of Limpkins, a gorgeous Sunbittern, Black Skimmer, a pair of localized Long-tailed Doves, Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Toco Toucan, Pale-crested Woodpecker, Purplish Jay, Red-crested and Yellow-billed Cardinals and a South American Coati. Just before dusk a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl showed well as did a couple of Crab-eating Foxes and upon entering the grounds of our lodge we noted Common Pauraque and Little Nightjar. Dawn found us overlooking the meandering Pixaim river and we were overwhelmed by the rich birdlife of the place. The daybreak chorus was simply fantastic and birds were everywhere. The open fields, the isolated large trees, the dense scrub and the riverine growth held an amazing assortment of common Pantanal species and new birds included Pale-legged Hornero, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Rufous Cacholote and Orange-backed Troupial. A displaying, growling Spectacled Caiman offered quite a spectacle. We then entered a splendid tract of riverine woodland and dense clumps of palms and here we found Scaly-headed Parrot, Glittering-bellied and Glittering-throated Emeralds, Bluecrowned Trogon, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, White-wedged Piculet, White, Little and Green-barred Woodpeckers, Great Antshrike, Large-billed and Rusty-backed Antwrens, Mato Grosso Antbird, Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher, Ashy-headed Greenlet, White-bellied Seedeater and Flavescent Warbler. In mid morning we boarded our comfortable bus and started to drive south along the Transpantaneira. The bridges are now all more or less ok no more really dilapidated, iffy bridges like they used to be - and we noted several beauties like Bare-faced Curassow, Maguari Stork, Yellow-billed Tern, a smashing Scarlet-headed Blackbird and a Neotropical River Otter. Upon arrival at the large Cuiabá River, we boarded two speedboats that took us to our luxurious lodge downstream. Hyacinth Macaws were playing about in the gardens and a Great Horned Owl was roosting in a giant tree. After a short rest we explored a nearby narrow tree-lined river where we added Boat-billed Heron, Sungrebe, Pied Lapwing, Greater Ani and Rusty-backed Spinetail to the list. At dusk Band-tailed and Nacunda Nighthawks started to hunt over the river. Early next morning we first obtained great views of several marvellous Bare-faced Curassows on the porch of our lodge. The nearby woodland edge along the private airstrip gave us quite a few displaying Red-throated Piping-Guans, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Large-billed Antwren, Plain Tyrannulet, Fuscous Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Fawn-breasted Wren, Epaulet Oriole, Bay-winged Cowbird and Thick-billed Euphonia. When it started to warm up, we returned by speedboat to the end of the Transpantaneira and drove slowly back to our lodge on the Pixaim river. Interesting species on the way included Bat Falcon, a magnificent and very well camouflaged, roosting Great Potoo, American Pygmy Kingfisher, Chotoy and White-lored Spinetails, Greater Thornbird, Barred Antshrike, Rusty-collared Seedeater and several marauding groups of South American Coatis. After the heat of the day had abated a bit, we positioned ourselves at one of my favourite viewpoints in the Pantanal. Three Plumbeous Kites, Peach-fronted Parakeet and Wedgetailed Grass-Finch enlivened our watch, as did Black-striped Tufted Capuchin and a large Yellowfooted Tortoise. Upon our return to the lodge we picked up a very nice Spot-tailed Nightjar in the torch beam. Our early morning walk in a lovely stretch of riverine woodland along the famous Pixaim river gave us lots of new birds like Buff-bellied Hermit, Blue-crowned Motmot, a female Golden-green Woodpecker, a pair of fabulous Pale-crested Woodpeckers, Straight-billed and Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, two remarkable Red-billed Scythebills, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, Southern Scrub Flycatcher and Helmeted Manakin. An angry Ferruginous Pygmy Owl attracted several Olivaceous Woodcreepers and Tropical Parulas. By mid morning we took a relaxed boat ride on the lovely river and although it was quite hot we encountered lots of already known waterbirds but also a splendid Sungrebe and no fewer than four Sunbitterns, while a relatively tame Spectacled Caiman was stroked by our half crazy boatman. In the afternoon we walked along a sandy track through shrubby 2 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

3 vegetation and found Aplomado Falcon, Rusty-margined Flycatcher and a cracking and much appreciated White-naped Xenopsaris. Next day, we started our return drive to the airport of Cuiabá before dawn and we admired another magical Pantanal sunrise with lots of waterbirds flying from their roosts to nearby fishing areas. A sturdy Brazilian Tapir walked sedately in an open field. The large scars on his back told their own obvious story. We stopped for a while at some open meadows where several pairs of Hyacinth Macaws performed beautifully and where several elegant Marsh Deer grazed. A three metre long, fat Yellow Anaconda crossed the track and proved quite a sight. At midday, we boarded a small plane, that flew us north to the town of Alta Floresta, where after lunch we took a bus to the Teles Pires river. A two metre long Red-tailed Boa was a nice surprise and we also noted several pairs of Blue-and-yellow and Chestnut-fronted Macaws, Fork-tailed Palm and Short-tailed Swifts and heard a Point-tailed Palmcreeper. A tree that had fallen across the track, caused a bit of delay, but eventually we boarded a boat that brought us to the delightful Rio Cristalino Jungle Lodge. When the sun was still struggling with the horizon, we were already on the highest platform of the splendid 50m high tower that overlooks a large tract of intact Amazonian rain forest. There was quite a dense mist at first, but this soon lifted and then the birds became active and started flying about. Our session produced marvels like Spix s Guan, Red-throated Piping Guan, Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, Grey-headed Kite, lots of Swallow-tailed and Plumbeous Kites, Black Hawk-Eagle, Blue-andyellow and Red-and-green Macaws, White-bellied, Blue-headed and Mealy Parrots, Black-bellied Thorntail, Black-eared Fairy, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Grey-rumped Swift, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, attractive Curl-crested and Red-necked Aracaris, Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, glorious Spangled and Pompadour Cotingas, Bare-necked Fruitcrow and several parties of acrobatic White-whiskered Spider Monkeys. By mid morning the insects were becoming a bit too obnoxious, so we left the tower and walked slowly along one of the trails. The cicadas made an unbelievably deafening noise, so the birds kept really quiet. We did note Plumbeous Pigeon, a fleeting Bare-eyed Antbird, a nice male Scale-backed Antbird, Red-headed Manakin, a flitting Tooth-billed Wren, a very cooperative Collared Peccary and several Red-handed Howler Monkeys. Upon returning to the lodge we were shown a pair of Blackish Nightjars on a shady roof and an occupied nest of Golden-bellied Euphonia. After a bit of rest in the middle of the day we took a sedate boat ride upstream on the Rio Three species of Jacamar performed very well. Paradise sat nicely in the open, a trio of Brown favoured a Cecropia tree and after a bit of work we managed to scope a splendid Bronzy. A magnificent Brazilian Tapir was cooling off in the river and we also logged some noisy Red-throated Caracaras, our only Spotted Sandpiper of the tour, Lettered Aracari, elegant White-banded Swallows, a bashful Lawrence s Thrush and several Redcapped Cardinals. At dusk we found a couple of Short-tailed Nighthawks, both Great and Common Potoos and glimpsed an uncooperative Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl. Next morning, we chose a trail which followed the river, covering a variety of forest types, including varzea, terra firme and patches of dense bamboo, but it turned out to be incredibly quiet in the forest. There was virtually no dawn chorus and the cicadas soon started to make an incredible racket. This continued for most of the morning, but we persevered and in the end came up with a list which included King Vulture, a badly behaving Amazonian Pygmy Owl, Blue-cheeked Jacamar (glimpses only, alas), Scaly-breasted Woodpecker, Black-banded Woodcreeper, Glossy Antshrike, Grey Antwren, Ringed Antpipit (truly amazing looks), Large-headed Flatbill, Screaming Piha, a gorgeous Flame-crowned Manakin, Thrush-like Schiffornis, Hauxwell s Thrush and a displaying Olive Oropendola. In the afternoon the boat brought us to the Teles Pires river. A rocky islet held a pair of Amazonian Tyrannulets and a bunch of Ladder-tailed Nightjars, while a walk on a larger island, covered in secondary growth gave us Osprey, Orange-cheeked and Golden-winged Parakeets, Blackthroated Mango, Long-billed Starthroat, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Amazonian Streaked Antwren, 3 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

4 a heard only Amazonian Antpitta, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher and several Red Brocket Deer. In the evening Graeme, a Birdquester who regularly works as a volunteer guide, told us his amazing story about his unique experiences with black Jaguars and Puma at Rio The following day we visited an area of round granitic outcrops covered in low canopy, vine tangled forest. We arrived shortly after dawn at our splendid viewpoint from where we observed the comings and goings of several interesting members of the local avifauna. No fewer than four species of puffbird performed very well here: single White-necked and Striolated, a duo of Brown-banded and a trio of Pied all showed at length. Great fun. Three species of Macaw flew majestically past at eye-level and new species for the list included Blue Ground Dove, Hellmayr s Parakeet, Amethyst Woodstar, Greybreasted Sabrewing, Black-tailed Trogon, Yellow-tufted, Lineated and Red-necked Woodpeckers, Natterer s Slaty Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Flame-crested, Turquoise and Masked Tanagers, Black-faced Dacnis and Plumbeous Seedeater. In late morning we walked along a trail through varzea forest where we found a few other species like Red-stained Woodpecker, Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Dot-winged Antwren and Striated Antbird. In the afternoon we took the boat upriver to the lagoons, but windy circumstances sabotaged our trip. We did enjoy the company of five Giant Otters and also noted Little Cuckoo, Pale-rumped Swift, Amazonian Antshrike and another Brazilian Tapir. Another morning at Rio Cristalino, started with a female Amazonian Umbrellabird crossing the river. We soon found ourselves on a new trail that also leads to a rocky outcrop and winds its way through very nice forest. Before the cicadas became a real menace we worked on several species of antbird and managed good looks at Spix s Warbling and White-browed Antbirds and briefly saw Spot-backed and Bare-eyed Antbirds. A male Red-headed Manakin showed well, a male Snow-capped Manakin proved hard to pinpoint; a Golden-crowned Spadebill appeared and a Rufous-necked Puffbird was flushed from near its nest hole, only allowing glimpses. A wonderful Amazonian Pygmy Owl was scoped and mobbed by White-chinned Sapphire, Rufous-winged Antwren, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-lored Tyrannulet, Long-billed Gnatwren and Dusky-capped Greenlet. Meanwhile we were increasingly being molested by hordes of sweat bees, so we eventually returned to base. In the afternoon we slowly walked towards the tower, and luckily got distracted by a large mid storey/canopy flock which gave us goodies like Amazonian Violaceous Trogon, White-fronted Nunbird, Golden-green Woodpecker, Buff-fronted and Buff-throated Foliage-gleaners, a splendid Curve-billed Scythebill, Plain-winged and Spot-winged Antshrikes, Long-winged Antwren, Rufoustailed Flatbill and Rufous-bellied Euphonia. It was great to finally experience the excitement of a fast moving flock. On the tower the sweat bees were again very active and we only observed Barenecked Fruitcrow and several White-whiskered Spider Monkeys. At dusk we heard a couple of Tawny-bellied Screech-Owls and an Ocellated Poorwill, but as soon as we were ready for them a serious rain storm approached and forced us to retreat to the lodge. Our morning visit to the bamboo-choked Haffer s trail was marred by intermittent rain which made the forest drip all the time, but we did manage to get a couple of hours of good birding in. We heard the distinctive sounds of Dark-winged Trumpeters nearby, but the forest here was very dense and only one of us was lucky enough to glimpse it. We did see Yellow-throated Woodpecker, an amazing Long-billed Woodcreeper, White-shouldered Antshrike, Grey Antbird and a male Rose-breasted Chat. During the rain showers we visited a nearby open area where we scoped Cinnamon Attila and Yellow-bellied Dacnis. A magical Razor-billed Curassow showed beautifully upon returning to the lodge. After lunch we took the boat down river and observed a Capybara being de-ticked by a Black Caracara what a show - and another beautiful Razor-billed Curassow performed along the river s edge. Yet another Brazilian Tapir was cooling off in the refreshing water. We walked along a wide track at the other side of the Teles Pires river where fruiting melastome trees attracted an excellent variety of frugivores. A patient wait gave us a stupendous male Fiery-capped, Snow-capped and White-bearded Manakins, a Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin and several Paradise and Bay-headed Tanagers. Chestnut-backed and Amazonian Antshrikes were singing away while shivering their tails and we also noted White-necked Jacobin and Chestnut Woodpecker. A Brown-tufted Capuchin was admired 4 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

5 smashing a fruit against a tree trunk while hanging upside down, just supported by its tail. A couple of Dusky Titi Monkeys was also foraging here. On the return journey we concentrated on trying to find the much wanted Zigzag Heron and we were soon rewarded. At first we had to settle with flight views, but later obtained superb looks at a perched individual. A great ending of another splendid day at Rio Cristalino! Before dawn we were already listening to the distant barking sounds of both Slaty-backed and Cryptic Forest-Falcons from the famous tower. When we could start to see things the birds became active and in an excellent 3,5 hour session we picked up marvels like King Vulture (perched), splendid flight formations of Blue-and-yellow Macaws, Kawall s and Red-fan Parrots, Black-girdled Barbet, a pair of very well-behaved Brown-banded Puffbirds, Grey Elaenia, Tropical Pewee, White-browed Purpletuft, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo and Red-billed Pied Tanager. A pity that canopy flock refused to come closer. Around nine o clock the insects became really irritating and we descended and worked several of the trails, but it had become exceedingly hot by now and we only observed a drumming male Yellow-throated Woodpecker. We then packed up, said farewell to this marvellous lodge, took the boat down the Rio Cristalino and drove to Alta Floresta. A stop in a palm grove gave us, after some respectful waiting, stupendous views of the much wanted Point-tailed Palmcreeper. And then we returned to the land of electricity, internet and (mostly bad) international news. Dawn saw us overlooking the forest edge at the Floresta Amazonica Hotel. Several Azara s Agoutis ambled nervously about, a lovely Southern Tamandua showed brilliantly and several Silvery Marmosets hopped through the tangles. A pair of Tiny Hawks was studied in the scope offering great looks. A Plumbeous Kite caught a large cicada and ate this tasty morsel in full view. We all immediately became members of the Plumbeous Kite fan club, hoping they would decimate the cicada population at Rio Cristalino! A fruiting tree held several glorious Crimson-bellied Parakeets and a Short-tailed Hawk was displaying overhead. In the forest we found an eyrie of Hook-billed Kite, Black-girdled Barbet and a pair of Plain-brown Woodcreepers. After a hearty lunch in a churrascaria, we flew to Cuiabá and transferred to our comfortable hotel at the edge of the Chapada dos Guimarães. Next morning, in the mysterious alborada, we were listening to the distinctive sounds of the cerrado along a sandy track on the Chapada. Birds were everywhere and it was a real delight scoping up one avian jewel after another. A couple of Small-billed Tinamous scuttled across the track and Red-legged Seriema, Blue-winged Macaw, Burrowing Owl, Horned Sungem, Rufous-winged Antshrike, Collared Crescentchest (superb scope studies), Chapada Flycatcher, Curl-crested Jay, White-banded, duetting White-rumped and Black-faced Tanagers, Grassland Sparrow, Coal-crested Finch and Black-throated Saltator performed beautifully. But best of all were the rare Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrants that we heard sing all over the place. In mid morning we found a lovely patch of woodland where the birds also kept behaving and we observed Tataupa Tinamou, a female Dot-eared Coquette, more Fierycapped Manakins, Moustached Wren, Grey-headed, White-shouldered and Guira Tanagers and a couple of Pectoral Sparrows. In the middle of the day we took a bit of time off and then visited an area of mixed low statue woodland The only species of note here were teasing a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and included six species of hummingbird, Great and Barred Antshrikes, three species of thrush and Red-crested Finch. We also scoped a smart Scaled Pigeon. Before travelling back to Cuiabá we spent several more hours in some nice woodland where a pair of Common Pauraques showed very well before dawn. A party of Blue-crowned Motmots played about and a lovely pair of Pale-crested Woodpeckers sat in the open. A male Plain Antvireo and a pair of White-backed Fire-eyes gave great views. Yet another male Fiery-capped Manakin put in an appearance, several more Pectoral Sparrows foraged on the track and a dainty White-bellied Warbler flitted about. The rest of the day was spent driving and flying to Belo Horizonte, the capital of the large state of Minas Gerais. After an excellent breakfast we started the long drive west, first through the suburbs and industrial areas of this large conurbation and then through rolling hills covered in coffee plantations and 5 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

6 meadows dotted with termite mounds. In a village we noted several Sick s Swifts. A stop at a marshy lake gave us a flurry of species including Brazilian Teal with ducklings, several female-plumaged Masked Duck, Least and Pied-billed Grebes, a pair of Blackish Rails with two large chicks, Purple Gallinule, a pair of elegant Streamer-tailed Tyrants, White-rumped Swallow, our first Rufous-collared Sparrows, Chestnut-capped Blackbird and Yellow-rumped Marshbird. We arrived at our favourite hotel just in time for lunch and in the afternoon the skies blackened and the rain came. Our bus got stuck in the clayey mud of a dirt track, so we birded the nearby open fields and scrubby edges under an ever threatening sky and came away with Great Dusky Swift, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, lovely Pileated Finches showing off their red crest and a Green-winged Saltator. An early start took us deep into the upper reaches of the Canastra National Park by dawn. Luckily the rain had abated overnight and although the skies still looked quite ominous, it stayed dry and cool throughout the day. We made many stops in the grasslands, did several organised bashes and kept scanning the endless expanses. We heard the unique chiming of Dwarf Tinamou and observed several Spotted Nothuras and Red-winged Tinamous. A Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle posed on its cliff-bound eyrie next to a downy chick. Our notebooks also showed White-vented Violetear, Firewood-gatherer, a Grey-backed Tachuri with two young, Sharp-tailed Tyrant, Crested Black Tyrant, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, several exquisite Cock-tailed Tyrants, Grass Wren, Ochre-breasted Pipit and Black-masked Finch. The mammal department was represented by Giant Anteater, Nine-banded Armadillo, Hoary Fox, a magnificent Maned Wolf and Pampas Deer. We bumped into an unidentified smallish armadillo that was seen digging itself in within seconds! Next day, we covered the lower reaches of the Serra and spent lots of time scanning the famous Rio São Francisco to try to find our main avian target here, the fabled Brazilian Merganser. We failed miserably today, but in the varied habitats that we covered we found gems like Bicoloured Hawk, Laughing Falcon, very approachable Red-legged Seriemas, Golden-capped Parakeet, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Barn Owl, Least Nighthawk, Planalto Hermit, Stripe-breasted Starthroat, Surucua Trogon, Variable Antshrike, Planalto and Sooty Tyrannulets, Grey-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Euler s Flycatcher, Masked Water-Tyrant, Rufous-headed Tanager, Yellow-bellied Seedeater and adorable Black-tufted Marmosets. We got to know the berry producing Jabuticaba tree and the glorious Pink Ype (Tabebuia). We also met friend and famous photographer Edson Endrigo whose marvellous photos cover the walls of many lodges all over Brazil. By now, we were getting a bit desperate about our main bird here, so we decided to give it one more serious try. A very early departure took us to some of the favourite sections of the Rio São Francisco and indeed, soon after dawn we spotted a pair of Brazilian Mergansers flying along the river and settling in a wide, quiet stretch. We managed to scope them and study them in detail while the early morning mist swirled over the river and the orange sun appeared on the horizon creating a very atmospheric environment. We saw them feeding and resting on a rock and just enjoyed watching them doing their thing. What a terrific experience! Success! Caipirinhas for all! Later we visited the woodland near the famous Casca d Anta waterfall where good numbers of Great Dusky and Whitecollared Swifts were hanging in the spray next to the falls. In the forest we found Hook-billed Kite, Spix s Spinetail, Streaked Xenops, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Highland Elaenia, Southern Antpipit, Grey-hooded Flycatcher, Pin-tailed Manakin and Black-goggled and Gilt-edged Tanagers. A happy group returned to the hotel for packing and while enjoying lunch our amiable hostess came to tell us, totally out of breath, that she had just seen a pair of Brazilian Mergansers with four ducklings on the stream at the back of the garden. Several of us dashed out and obtained more great views of this smashing duck at close range. We then bade goodbye to this delightful place and drove east to the distant Serra do Cipó. 6 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

7 Next morning we were braving really strong winds in the highest areas of the Serra do Cipó. Our chances to find the local specialities were obviously not good at all and we really felt frustrated as we tried to find sheltered little valleys where the birds would be a bit more active. We searched, waited and scanned, but very little was moving in this magnificent habitat of rocky outcrops and scrubby valleys. A Grey-backed Tachuri showed well and luckily a cracking Hyacinth Visorbearer saved the morning. Lower down we noted an endemic Cinereous Warbling-Finch, Blue-winged Parrotlet, Checkered Woodpecker, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Cinnamon Tanager and Southern Yellowthroat. A party of Black-tufted Marmosets performed very well at the hotel and in the afternoon we explored the forest edges and the open areas of the National Park, adding Crowned Slaty Flycatcher and Green-winged Saltator to the tally. On the last morning of the tour we returned to the higher areas of the Serra do Cipó, but storm winds and persistent rain kept our avian targets out of view and although we again looked and searched and tramped about for hours, we failed miserably. Then it was time to pack up, travel to Belo Horizonte and fly halfway around the globe to home. Although it had been hard work at times, the birds and the mammals had been exquisite and the caipirinhas exceedingly tasty. 7 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

8 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). RHEIDAE Greater Rhea Rhea americana: Twelve showed well in an area of rough pasture at the start of the Transpantaneira. Its confusing Brazilian name is Ema (plural: Emas) and this is also the name of a famous national park in the state of Goias. This species is treated as Near- Threatened in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International s magnificent book on the sad status of 10% of the world s avifauna. TINAMIDAE Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus (H): Sadly, we never managed to see the source of one of the most distinctive sounds of the Neotropics. The melodious, melancholic song sounds like the first three notes of the Barcarolle in Offenbach s opera: The Tales of Hoffmann. The tinamous belonging to the genus Crypturellus are usually notoriously difficult to see. Most species of this family are polygamous, with the smaller males performing the domestic tasks and their eggs are beautifully coloured. The exclusively Neotropical tinamous are one of the most primitive families, and together with the ratites (Ostriches etc.) they are often separated in the superorder Paleognathae. They conserve certain reptilian features, such as their blood proteins and the shape of the palate. Brazilian Tinamou Crypturellus strigulosus (H): The pure single note at Rio Tinamous were extremely quiet during our visit to Rio Cristalino, giving us even less chance for an encounter. Variegated Tinamou Crypturellus variegatus (H): A single audio encounter at Rio Small-billed Tinamou Crypturellus parvirostris: A couple were seen quite well along a sandy track at the Chapada dos Guimarães. A distinctive song of open areas. Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa: Good looks in the forest patch of the Chapada dos Guimarães. Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens: Excellent looks at several in the grasslands of the Serra da Canastra National Park. A unique whistle. Spotted Nothura Nothura maculosa: We flushed several in the grasslands on the plateau of the Serra da Canastra. We also regularly heard its distinctive trill there. Dwarf Tinamou Taoniscus nanus (H): We heard the characteristic whistle in the grasslands of the Serra da Canastra National Park. This species is very little known, virtually never seen and is restricted to central southern Brazil and northeastern Argentina. It is the smallest of the 46 species of tinamous and is treated as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. ANHIMIDAE Southern Screamer Chauna torquata: Small numbers were noted along the Transpantaneira. This bizarre species often perches on tops of riverside trees and is indeed extremely vociferous. The three species of screamers display two, sharp, long spurs at the bend of the wing, have a complicated system of air-sacs beneath their skin and their bones are far more pneumatic than in other birds, making their bone structure exceptionally light. They are restricted to the Neotropics. 8 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

9 ANATIDAE Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis: A few were noted on a roadside lake on our drive to Rio The epithet autumnalis (= autumnal) refers to the orange, yellow and brown colours of this species. Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata: Several real ones in the Pantanal, Rio Cristalino and Canastra. Brazilian Teal (B Duck) Amazonetta brasiliensis: Excellent views of several on the lake near São Roque and at Cipó. Brazilian Merganser Mergus octosetaceus: It took a long time, a very long time, but eventually we obtained excellent views of this much-desired and enigmatic species. We found a pair swimming along a quiet atmospheric stretch of the Rio São Francisco, just after dawn on our last day there and managed to study them for at least 10 minutes. Just before leaving the Serra da Canastra a pair with four large ducklings waved us farewell, as if to make up for our efforts. Only a handful of pairs of these unobtrusive ducks inhabit the streams of the Serra da Canastra National Park, where they hold territories varying between 4 and 14 km of river. New, fairly sizeable populations were recently found in Tocatins and in Bahia (NE Brazil), but the total numbers of this rarest of New World waterfowl are minute (c250 birds only). It used to occur in nearby Paraguay (last recorded in 1985) and in northern Argentina (Misiones), from where there is only one recent record, despite extensive surveys. This species is treated as Critical in Threatened Birds of the World. The favourite species for Ian Gryllo, Ian T, Bill and Keith. Masked Duck Nomonyx dominicus: Three female-plumaged birds showed well at a lake near the Serra da Canastra. Always much appreciated. The genus Nomonyx is now usually preferred over Oxyura for this species, as it is quite different from other stifftails. CRACIDAE Spix s Guan Penelope jacquacu: Several excellent observations in the Rio Cristalino area. Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster: Good looks at several in the Pantanal. A Brazilian endemic with an extremely tiny area of distribution centred on the northern Pantanal. Its total population is in the range of 2,500-10,000 birds. This species is treated as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World. Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis: Regular sightings in the Pantanal. Quite a few birds had some red on their mainly blue throats, an indication of the close relationship between this and the next species. Red-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cujubi: Regular, excellent observations in the Rio Cristalino area. A truly handsome bird, with a rather small range in southwestern Amazonia. The favourite bird for Ian W. Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis: Loud dawn choruses in the Pantanal! Very common and tame there. Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata: Many superb sightings in the Pantanal. We observed both males and females. These exquisite birds have a really splendid hair-do. Razor-billed Curassow (Amazonian Razor-billed Curassow) Mitu tuberosum: A couple of eye-ball to eye-ball encounters with these jewels along the Rio These, elsewhere much persecuted birds were distinctly unafraid and showed at length and in detail. Amazing stuff!!! PODICIPEDIDAE Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus: Many of these diminutive birds on a lake in the Canastra area. Several pairs had cute, tiny, stripy young. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps : A single on the lake in the Canastra area. 9 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

10 PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus: Common on the shrinking pools of the Pantanal, where they feasted on the plentiful fish, together with herons, egrets, storks and jacarés (caimans). We also encountered small numbers along the Rio ANHINGIDAE Anhinga Anhinga anhinga: Very common in the Pantanal and regular along the Rio The snakebird!! ARDEIDAE Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum: Regular in the Pantanal and a few at the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve. A few sightings of attractive young birds in their distinctive attire. Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius: Seven were seen in the Pantanal and we also found a splendid adult at Rio This peculiar-looking bird is often associated with the night-herons due to its similar plumage. However, DNA analysis suggests links with the tiger-herons. It has even been placed in its own family, Cochleariidae! Zigzag Heron Zebrilus undulatus: Great views of an adult bird of this diminutive species at Rio We also heard its distinctive call. Rainer s obvious favourite. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: This well known species was common in the Pantanal. Striated Heron (Green-backed H) Butorides striatus: Very common in the Pantanal and regular along the Rio Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Widespread and common. The nominate race of this highly successful species apparently invaded South America from Africa in the late 19th century, one of the most spectacular examples of avian range expansions in historic times. Cocoi Heron (White-necked H) Ardea cocoi: Common in the Pantanal and a few along the Rio Great Egret Ardea alba: A very common species along the Transpantaneira. Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix: Regularly observed in the Pantanal and also at Canastra. Its evocative Brazilian name is Maria-faceira (= Maria with lots of make-up). Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus: A regular and much appreciated appearance along rivers. A real beauty!! Snowy Egret Egretta thula: Common in the Pantanal. Thula is an Araucano (Chilean) Indian name for the Black-necked Swan, erroneously given to the Snowy Egret! Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea: Several birds were seen in the Pantanal. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis: Superb views of this solitary species in the Pantanal and at Rio Everything about this bird is green. Its onomatopoeic Brazilian name is Corocoro. Bare-faced Ibis (Whispering Ibis) Phimosus infuscatus: A few observations in the Pantanal. Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens: Small numbers of this distinctive and vociferous species in the Pantanal. It is sometimes placed in the genus Harpiprion. The Pantanal is the place to see this rather uncommon species. Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus: Regular encounters. What a voice! Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja: Regular sightings of this spectacular bird in the Pantanal. 10 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

11 CICONIIDAE Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari: Regular observations of this declining species in the Pantanal. Though at present not considered to be threatened, the South American storks could easily crash before the extent of the decline would really be evident. Jabiru Jabiru mycteria: These huge creatures were splendidly common and very approachable in the Pantanal. Several huge nests contained chicks. Wood Stork (American Wood-Ibis) Mycteria americana: Very common at the shrinking pools in the Pantanal. CATHARTIDAE Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura: Regular sightings, but much less common than Black Vulture. The members of the genus Cathartes have a very keen sense of smell. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Savanna Vulture) Cathartes burrovianus: Quite common over the grasslands of the Pantanal. Several splendid looks at perched birds. Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus: Quite common over the extensive forests of the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus: Very common. After the opinions of a few 19th century taxonomists were long ignored, recent genetic studies have indeed confirmed that New World vultures are modified storks and don t belong with the raptors. An excellent example of convergent evolution. King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa: A few observations of distinctive adult birds at Rio Cristalino and at Canastra. We also saw a couple of immature birds. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: A couple of observations of this well known northern migrant at Rio ACCIPITRIDAE Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis: Brief looks at a single bird at Rio Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus: Several observations of this distinctive and widespread bird of prey. We found an occupied eyrie near the Alta Floresta Amazonica Hotel. Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus: Many sightings of these extremely elegant and highlyattractive birds along our route. White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus: A single bird showed briefly in the Chapada dos Guimarães. Inexplicably scarce on this tour. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis: Many excellent observations of this snail specialist in the Pantanal. Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea: Regular observations of this very aerial raptor in the Pantanal, at Rio Cristalino and in the lower reaches of Canastra. Tiny Hawk Accipiter superciliosus: Fantastic scope studies of a pair of these diminutive raptors at the Alta Floresta Amazonica Hotel. A widespread, but rarely observed Neotropical raptor. Bicoloured Hawk Accipiter bicolor: Fair views of a young bird in the Canastra area. Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens: Six excellent sightings of this peculiar raptor in the Pantanal. The Crane Hawk superficially recalls the Afrotropical Harrier Hawk (or Gymnogene), but it is smaller and more lightly built, with relatively longer legs. Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga: Commonly encountered in the Pantanal. Also seen along the Rio Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis: This attractively-patterned raptor was common in the Pantanal. We also noted it in the lower reaches of the Canastra National Park. 11 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

12 Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis: Regular sightings along the stretches of water in the Pantanal. A cracking bird, with a really peculiar voice. It was great to see a bird coming in close to pick up piranhas thrown by our boat man. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus: A great observation of an adult bird on an eyrie containing a small downy chick in the Serra da Canastra. We also observed a young bird in flight here. Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris: The most widespread raptor. Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus: A couple of observations only. White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus: Regular in Canastra. The distinctive adults are always smartlooking, but the young birds can be rather confusing. Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus: Several nice sightings in the Rio Cristalino area. FALCONIDAE Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans: A couple of first-rate observations. We also heard its maniacal call. Cryptic Forest-Falcon Micrastur mintoni (H): This recently described species (2003) was only heard this year. It was formerly considered to belong with Lined Forest-Falcon, but its distinctive voice and minor morphological differences are characteristic. Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon Micrastur mirandollei (H): We heard one call in the distance at Rio Southern Caracara (Southern Crested Caracara) Caracara plancus: Regular observations in open habitat. Red-throated Caracara Daptrius americanus. Great looks at this incredibly-vociferous bird of prey at Rio One of the loudest voices of the New World!! A social forest raptor, that often preys on bee and wasp larvae, apparently raiding nests of even the most vicious species with impunity. But, strangely enough it also eats many fruits. Black Caracara Daptrius ater: Regular encounters along the Rio Very vocal, but not as extreme as the previous species. Near the dock at Rio Cristalino we observed some splendid behaviour, as a bird perched on the back and on the head of a large male Capybara, cautiously picked up some tasty morsels from the ears of this large rodent. A great behaviour observation!! Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima: Small numbers in the Canastra and Cipó areas. American Kestrel Falco sparverius: Regular sightings. Its Brazilian name is Quiriquiri. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis: Several gorgeous scope studies of this cute little raptor. A really swift species that mainly feeds on bats, birds and large insects. It usually breeds in old raptor nests, but we saw one disappear into a large tree hole in the Pantanal. Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis: Two observations only of this dashing species. Aplomado refers to the lead-coloured upperparts of the bird (plomo = lead). ARAMIDAE Limpkin Aramus guarauna: This snail eater was common and noisy in the Pantanal. The only member of its family. PSOPHIIDAE Dark-winged Trumpeter Psophia viridis: We all heard the distinctive calls and Rainer managed brief looks in a patch of dense forest at Rio Too bad... RALLIDAE Grey-necked Wood-Rail Pantanal. Aramides cajanea: Regular sightings of this attractive species in the 12 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

13 Ash-throated Crake Porzana albicollis (H): We heard the distinctive calls in the Pantanal and in the Serra do Cipó. Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans: Great looks at a pair with two large chicks at a marshy lake in the Canastra area. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Common at the Masked Duck lake near Canastra. Purple Gallinule (American Purple Gallinule) Porphyrio martinica: A couple showed well at the same lake. HELIORNITHIDAE Sungrebe Heliornis fulica: Excellent views of this different-looking species in the Pantanal and along the Rio This is the smallest of the three finfoots. EURYPYGIDAE Sunbittern Eurypyga helias: No fewer than 17 encounters with this sublime and unusual-looking creature. A real beauty!! The only member of its family. CARIAMIDAE Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata: Ten encounters with this peculiar-looking species. Its behaviour always reminds one of the Secretarybird of the African savannas. We often heard its wailing voice in the Chapada and Canastra areas. CHARADRIIDAE Pied Lapwing (Pied Plover) Vanellus cayanus: Good views of these very handsome birds in the Pantanal and at Rio Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis: Regular encounters. Extremely vociferous. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus: A single bird was seen on our first day in the Pantanal. SCOLOPACIDAE South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae: Scope views of a couple of sitting birds in the Pantanal. Upland Sandpiper Bartramia longicauda (NL): Five were briefly seen from the bus at the airport of Cuiabá. A northern migrant. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius: A single observation of this northern migrant at Rio Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca: A single bird was found in the Pantanal. Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria: Three sightings only. JACANIDAE Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana: Regular in the Pantanal. The name jacana is derived from the Tupi (Brazilian) Indian word jasaná, so the right pronunciation should really be jasaná. The Portuguese spelling is jaçaná. Amazingly long toes!! STERNIDAE Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris: A few observations in the Pantanal. Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex: Several showed well in the Pantanal. A different-looking tern, obviously with Skimmer affinities. RYNCHOPIDAE Black Skimmer Rynchops niger: Just a few encounters with this different-looking species in the Pantanal. 13 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

14 COLUMBIDAE Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti: Common all over the place. Nobody seems to know what talpacoti means or where it comes from. Scaled Dove Columbina squammata: A regularly observed and lovely little dove. It is sometimes placed in the genus Scardafella. Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui: Good numbers of this delightful little tyke. Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa: A few observations at Rio Long-tailed Ground-Dove Uropelia campestris: Superb scope looks at two along the Transpantaneira. This lovely species is restricted to central Brazil and adjacent Bolivia. It is the only member of its genus. The closely related Blue-eyed Ground-Dove Columbina cyanopis is only known from the cerrado of southern central Brazil and there are no reliable recent records of this species!!! Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia: No comment. Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa: Several excellent encounters along a forest edge in the Chapada dos Guimarães. Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro: Many, many observations. Picazuro means sour pigeon in Guarani Indian language, referring to the taste of its flesh after having eaten certain fruits. Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis: Regular sightings. A striking species when seen in good light. Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea: A couple of nice observations in the Rio Cristalino area. Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata: A few observations in drier areas. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi: Many encounters with this widespread bird. Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla: Just a couple of brief sightings. PSITTACIDAE Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus: Regular smashing encounters with this fantastic species in the gallery woodland of the Pantanal. Eye-ball to eye-ball views with this largest of parrots! A truly great bird!!! The total population is probably only c10,000 individuals. It is treated as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International s magnificent book on the sad status of 10% of the world s avifauna. Pete s and Elaine s favourite. Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna: Regular sightings of this glorious species at the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve. Scarlet Macaw Ara macao: Regular at the Rio Simply superb to see pairs, trios or quartets of these splendid birds fly past at eye level over the extensive forests. The essence of the Neotropics!! Alison s favourite. Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera: A few encounters at Rio Cristalino and in the Chapada dos Guimarães. Impressive. Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severus: Regular observations at Rio Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata: Two showed briefly in a patch of Mauritia palms near Rio Blue-winged Macaw Primolius maracana: Good looks at a pair in the Chapada. A riot of colours!! The total population is now smaller than 10,000 birds and this species is treated as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalma: Very common all over the place. Golden-capped Parakeet Aratinga auricapillus: Nice scope views of this Brazilian endemic at the Serra da Canastra. The total population of this marvellous species is small and scattered over tiny fragments of remaining habitat. It is treated as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea: One of the more regularly-observed psittacids. 14 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008

15 Maroon-bellied Parakeet (Reddish-bellied Parakeet, Maroon-bellied Conure) Pyrrhura frontalis: Flight views of a small flock in the lower reaches of Canastra. An Atlantic Forest endemic. Crimson-bellied Parakeet (Crimson-bellied Conure) Pyrrhura perlata: An excellent encounter with this uncommon and smart species at Alta Floresta. It is restricted to central Brazil and adjacent Bolivia. Hellmayr s Parakeet Pyrrhura amazonum: Regular encounters at Rio Usually in flight, but we did obtain some great scope views of perched birds. This taxon used to form part of the Painted Parakeet Pyrrhura picta complex Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus: Common in the Pantanal, where we also found them at their huge stick nests. Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius: We only saw this widespread species in the Serra do Cipó. Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri: Many excellent sightings. Golden-winged Parakeet Brotogeris chrysopterus: Regularly observed at Rio The golden is not really visible when the birds are seen perched. White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster: Superb views of these attractive birds from the tower at Rio Orange-cheeked Parrot Gypopsitta barrabandi: Several first-rate encounters with this very smart parrot at Rio Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus: Many at the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve. Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani: A few in the Pantanal and in the Serra do Cipó. Blue-fronted Parrot (B-f Amazon/Turquoise-fronted Parrot) Amazona aestiva: Common in the Pantanal. This is one of the most sought after of parrots, as it can be an excellent talker. Yellow-crowned Parrot (Yellow-headed Parrot) Amazona ochrocephala: A few in flight at Rio Kawall s Parrot (Kawall s Amazon, White-faced Parrot) Amazona kawalli: One of the specialities of the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve. We obtained good scope views of this restricted range species from the tower, allowing us to discern the distinctive face pattern. It used to be considered a form of Mealy Parrot. Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa: We saw several of these vociferous birds in the Alta Floresta area. Red-fan Parrot Deroptyus accipitrinus: Great scope views of this most handsome of parrots from the tower at Rio A really spectacular species, that showed well. OPISTHOCOMIDAE Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin: A few showed very briefly at the lagoons in the Rio Cristalino Jungle Reserve. The nearest living relatives of this unique species remain a mystery. DNA analysis suggests a link with the cuckoos but it also shows links with the Cracidae (Curassows, Guans and Chachalacas) and Gallinaceous birds. The generic name refers to its peculiar punkish hair-do! (Greek opisthokomos = wearing the hair long behind) COCCYZIDAE Little Cuckoo Coccycua minuta: A single encounter at the lagoons at Rio Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana: Regular encounters. Black-bellied Cuckoo Piaya melanogaster (H): We only heard this forest denizen at Rio CROTOPHAGIDAE Greater Ani Crotophaga major: Great encounters with flocks along the Rio A single bird was seen in the Pantanal. 15 Birdquest: The Pantanal & Interior Brazil 2008