THE LESSER SUNDAS. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: The Lesser Sundas. Southeast Indonesia

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: The Lesser Sundas THE LESSER SUNDAS Southeast Indonesia Tour Duration: 19 days Group Size Limit: 8 Tour Category: Easy to Moderate for the most part, with one optional Demanding hike Scattered across about 5000 kilometres of tropical ocean, the Indonesian archipelago is remarkable for its cultural and biological diversity. Of all the regions of Indonesia, Nusa Tenggara (meaning Southeast Islands ) is probably the most varied. Strung out to the east of the popular holiday island of Bali, they contain, in microcosm, a wide range of tropical habitats from the luxuriant cloud forests on the flanks of the volcanoes of Flores to the xerophytic scrub on Komodo, famous for its Dragons. Better known as the Lesser Sundas, they are relatively undeveloped and thinly populated: only 2% of Indonesia s huge population live in the islands in contrast to the burgeoning millions inhabiting the fertile plains of adjacent Java and Bali. On the road to nowhere in particular, they are seldom visited and so much remains undiscovered about their birdlife. Although these small islands hold fewer species Citron-crested Cockatoo (Tony Disley) than an equivalent area of continental Asia, many are endemic and often confined to a single island. This tour represents an enjoyable and not especially difficult adventure for those who want to see the many exciting and little-known endemics of the Lesser Sundas, some of which are becoming harder and harder to find due to habitat loss. Indeed, we can say that of all the endemic-bird-rich places in the world, the Lesser Sundas is somewhere one should hurry to visit. The most isolated and least often visited of the Lesser Sundas is Sumba. This dry, infertile island is mostly covered with rough pasture, much of it given over to the horse rearing for which Sumba is famous throughout the archipelago. Flying into Sumba, it is difficult to believe that the endemic species, all but one of them forest birds, could have survived. Fortunately a few patches of monsoon forest remain and in these we have an excellent chance to find some of the world s most critically endangered species such as Citron-crested Cockatoo, Sumba Hornbill and the very attractive Red-naped Fruit- Dove. Other specialities include Sumba Buttonquail, Marigold Lorikeet, Sumba Boobook, Sunda Nightjar, Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Sumba Green Pigeon, Sumba Flycatcher, Sumba Jungle Flycatcher, Sumba Brown Flycatcher, the gorgeous Apricot-breasted Sunbird and Sumba Red-headed Myzomela. To the east of Sumba lies Timor, the largest and geographically most ancient of the Lesser Sundas, which holds the greatest number of endemics, including that most excellent of songsters the Buffbanded Thicket-Warbler and the strikingly-marked Orangesided Thrush. In contrast to the tropical luxuriance of Bali, Timor more closely resembles those parts of northern Australia that lie not far away to the south across the Timor Sea. Over much of the island dry grassland and scrub predominate, with indigenous eucalyptus adding strongly to the Antipodean feel. The lowland forests of Timor are highly threatened, as the few remaining patches are unprotected, and so woodcutters and bird trappers do as they please. Several species which were common until quite recently have now become decidedly scarce. Their future looks bleak, so now is the time to see such specialities as Olive-headed Lorikeet and Timor Sparrow. The many other endemics and localized species we will be looking for on this island include the exquisite Blackbacked Fruit-Dove, Timor Imperial Pigeon, Streaked Boobook, Greater Wallacean Drongo, Timor Figbird, the pretty White-bellied Chat, Chestnut-backed Thrush, the lovely Orange-sided Thrush, the tiny Timor Stubtail, Timor Leaf Warbler, the skulking Buff-banded Thicket Warbler, the beautiful Timor Blue Flycatcher, the attractive Black-banded Flycatcher, Fawn-breasted Whistler, Timor Friarbird, Streak-breasted and Yellow-eared Honeyeaters, Black-chested Myzomela, the dazzling Flame-breasted Sunbird, Red-chested Flowerpecker, Spot-breasted Dark-eye, Tricoloured Parrot- Finch and Black-faced and Five-coloured Munias. North of Timor, Flores could hardly be more different. This long narrow island is one of the most beautiful in Indonesia. Its complex mountainous relief is bisected by deep V-shaped valleys and surmounted by many volcanoes, 14 of them still active. Only the very much larger islands of Java and Sumatra are more volcanically active. Many of the rugged mountains of Flores are still covered with humid rainforest, where we

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: The Lesser Sundas will look for specialities like Flores Hawk-Eagle, Flores Lorikeet, Wallace s Hanging Parrot, Wallace s Scops Owl, the striking White-rumped Kingfisher, Elegant Pitta, the little known Flores Crow, the diminutive Russet-capped Tesia, Flores Leaf Warbler, Flores Jungle Flycatcher, Brown-capped Fantail, the very rare Flores Monarch, Bare-throated Whistler, Scaly-crowned Honeyeater, Black-fronted and Goldenrumped Flowerpeckers, and Yellow-browed, Crested and Thick-billed Dark-eyes. West of Flores, in the strait separating it from Sumbawa, lies another strikingly different island, Komodo. Here among parched hills and dry gullies lives the most important population of the Komodo Dragon, a huge monitor lizard otherwise known only from adjacent Rinca and a small part of Flores. There can be few wildlife experiences to compare with the sight of these unique and decidedly antediluvian reptiles in so remote and inhospitable a setting. As if to accentuate the barrenness of the land, the surrounding seas are rich in beautiful coral reefs, dolphins, turtles and seabirds. Birdquest has operated tours to the Lesser Sundas since Red-naped Fruit-Doves (Craig Robson) Itinerary Day 1 The tour begins around midday at Denpasar on the island of Bali, where we will stay overnight. During our short stay on Bali we will have the opportunity to do some birding in the nearby Benoa Harbour area. At low tide, the mudflats here attract a variety of shorebirds, including the restricted range Javan Plover and near-threatened Far Eastern Curlew. Other waders that we may find include Pacific Golden Plover, Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Eurasian Curlew, Eurasian Whimbrel, Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Grey-tailed Tattler, Red-necked Stint and Curlew Sandpiper. If we are fortunate, we will encounter one of the rarer migrant species, such as Great Knot. Large numbers of Javan Pond-Herons dot the mudflats, flocks of Sunda Teal are usually much in evidence in the backwaters, and the attractive Small Blue Kingfisher can often be seen perching on posts around the margins of the wetlands. The resident Collared Kingfisher is very conspicuous, and may occasionally be joined by a migrant Sacred Kingfisher. Other waterbirds at Benoa typically include Great and Little Egrets, Grey and Purple Herons, and Little and Gull-billed Terns. The coastal scrub and mangrove patches harbour a nice range of landbirds, with Island Collared and Spotted Doves, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Savanna Nightjar, Linchi (or Cave) Swiftlet, Pacific Swallow, White-shouldered Triller, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Flyeater, Bar-winged and Plain Prinias, Pied Fantail, Javan Myna, White-breasted Wood-Swallow, Olive-backed Sunbird, the striking Scarletheaded Flowerpecker, Tree Sparrow and Scaly-breasted Munia all likely. With luck we will see Racket-tailed Treepie or White-headed Munia. Day 2 Today we will take a flight to Waingapu, the principal town on the remote, hot and dry island of Sumba, for a four nights stay. If our flight is in the afternoon, rather than the morning, we will have time for an excursion to Uluwatu on Bali where we may find the rare Black-winged Myna as well as other specialities such as Javan Kingfisher and Olive-backed Tailorbird. Other possibilities include Wilson s Storm-Petrel, White-tailed Tropicbird, Spotbreasted Woodpecker (split from Fulvous-breasted), Small Minivet, Common Iora and Striated Grassbird. Sumba is one of the smaller islands of Nusa Tenggara, the forgotten and little known south eastern chain of islands of Indonesia, and is famous for its ikats (beautifully decorated fabrics) and its thoroughbred horses. The isolation of this old eroded island has led to a high degree of endemism. Thirteen currently recognised species are restricted to Sumba and all but one of them, Sumba Buttonquail, are confined to the small and diminishing areas of indigenous forest. This afternoon we will spend some time in the Yumbu area, to the east of Waingapu. The dry grassland which occupies large areas on either side of the road here is the habitat of the Sumba Buttonquail, one of the least known endemics. Like most buttonquails it is quite difficult to see, but we should at least flush one or two at close range. With a bit of luck we will be able to watch one walking around. Apart from the buttonquail, typical grassland birds include the widespread Brown Quail, Australasian Bushlark and Pied Chat. Nearby mangroves provide good habitat for Indonesian Honeyeater, which is quite common here. In addition, we should have time to visit a lovely freshwater wetland where we may well observe Little Grebe, Little Black and Little Pied Cormorants, Intermediate Egret, Wandering Whistling- Duck, Sunda Teal, Pacific Black Duck, White-browed Crake, Common Moorhen, Australian Swamphen, Whiteheaded Stilt, Wood Sandpiper, Whiskered Tern and Australian Reed Warbler. If we are lucky, we will see a rarity or two, such as Australian Pelican, Pied Heron, Glossy Ibis, Hardhead, Swamp Harrier or Australian Pratincole. Days 3-5 Much of our time on Sumba will be spent in the Lewa area, an in particular in one of the more extensive areas of accessible remnant forest on Sumba, Langgaliru National Park. Here we should find many of the forest-dwelling specialities. A population of the endemic Citron-crested Cockatoo (split from Yellow-crested) still survives in this area, and we will be making a special effort to see this distinctive and critically endangered species. The walk to the forest across the open grassland is a good place to see parrots flying over in the early morning. The magnificent Eclectus Parrot is now rare and the Great-billed Parrot decidedly scarce, but the near-endemic Marigold Lorikeet (split from Rainbow) and Red-cheeked Parrot are still fairly common. The handsome Cinnamonbanded Kingfisher betrays its presence by its distinctive whinnying, and locating this Lesser Sundas endemic will be

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: The Lesser Sundas White-rumped Kingfisher (Nik Borrow) high on our list of priorities. Black-shouldered Kite, Short-toed Eagle and Bluetailed Bee-eater hunt over the grasslands, whilst Redbacked Buttonquail, Zitting Cisticola and Red Avadavat can be flushed from cover. Once we reach the forest, we have a chance to see more of the specialities. The rare and exquisite Red-naped Fruit-Dove, one of the most beautiful of its genus, can sometimes be found resting on exposed branches. We will also be looking for Sumba Green Pigeon, the three endemic flycatchers, Sumba, Sumba Jungle- (split from Russet-backed) and Sumba Brown (formerly lumped in Asian Brown), as well as the attractive endemics Apricotbreasted Sunbird and Sumba Red-headed Myzomela (or Honeyeater). Other species we hope to find include Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Green Imperial Pigeon, Paleshouldered Cicadabird, Lesser Wallacean Drongo, Blacknaped Oriole, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, and Grey-headed Flycatcher. We will also visit some forest patches near Lewa where we will concentrate on finding any of the forest endemics that we may have missed so far, notably the threatened Sumba Hornbill, which is frequently found in this area. As night falls in one of the forest clearings, the nearendemic Sunda Nightjar (split from Large-tailed) begin to call, and we should hear the endemic Sumba Boobook, though finding it in the dense habitat may not prove easy. We will also be looking for the poorly known endemic Little Sumba Boobook (or Sumba Hawk-Owl), which was only described for the first time in Its monosyllabic hoot will hopefully lead us to its location. During our forest birding sorties on Sumba, we should also see Brown Goshawk, Black-naped Fruit- Dove, Dollarbird, Wallacean Cuckoo-Shrike, Grey Tit (split from Great), Arafura Fantail (split from Rufous), Spectacled Monarch, Common Golden Whistler, the widespread Helmeted Friarbird, Yellowspectacled and Ashy-bellied White-eyes, and the showy Blood-breasted Flowerpecker. The much sought-after Elegant Pitta can often be heard calling from cover, but is more difficult to see here than on Flores. In the more open areas, one can often find Black and Brahminy Kites, Spotted Kestrel, Barred Dove, Southern Jungle Crow (split from Large-billed), Short-tailed Starling, Brown-throated Sunbird, and both Black-faced and Five-coloured Munias. Day 6 After spending the morning birding near Lewa we shall fly to Kupang in West Timor (not to be confused with the recently independent state of East Timor or Timor Leste) for a three nights stay. Timor is the largest island of the Lesser Sundas and used to be famous for its sweet-scented sandal wood. Unfortunately, much forest has been removed and only small remnants now remain in West Timor. In the evening, if the tide is low and we have enough time, we will look for a selection of shorebirds, including Grey-tailed Tattler and Ruddy Turnstone, close to our hotel. Lesser Frigatebird, Pacific Reef Egret and Greater Crested Tern also occur. Days 7-8 On our first day exploring the Kupang region we shall leave very early in order to arrive at Bipolo for first light. Here, sandwiched between extensive tracts of cultivation, a small area of lowland forest remains where many specialities can be seen. The forest is dominated by a highly peculiar palm (Corypha utan), which dies after having produced a mass of fruit, and the dead palms are often used as perches by a variety of bird species. Sadly the area is unprotected and so its future, and that of several lowland forest birds, looks rather bleak. In the canopy Red-chested Flowerpeckers, Streak-breasted and Yelloweared Honeyeaters, and Black-chested Myzomelas (or Honeyeaters) feed in flowering trees, while the understorey holds the very attractive Timor Blue Flycatcher. With a bit of luck an Orange-sided Thrush, one of the islands most attractive endemics, will show itself. Pacific Baza and Oriental Honey-Buzzard regularly soar over the more open places. Fruiting trees attract the exquisite Rosecrowned and Black-backed Fruit-Doves, and we will be keeping our eyes open for Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, which is now rare here. Timor Figbirds are common in the tree-tops, and often gather in quite large concentrations. The early morning is a good time to find parrots flying about. We will have a good chance of seeing the poorly named Olive-shouldered (which has a red wing-slash and bright green shoulders!) and commoner Red-cheeked Parrots but, unfortunately, the endemic Marigold Lorikeet (split from Rainbow) is far from guaranteed now. Bipolo is a remarkably birdy place, and as we walk along the road watching the forest edge, we will hope to see Greater Wallacean Drongo (considered separate from Lesser Wallacean), Olivebrown Oriole, Northern Fantail, Plain Gerygone (with its distinctive melancholic song), Fawn-breasted Whistler, Timor Friarbird, Thickbilled Flowerpecker and the dazzling Flame-breasted Sunbird. Green-winged Pigeons (split from Emerald Dove) often zoom across the track. Adjacent to the forest is an area of rice-paddies and an intermediate scrubby zone. A wide variety of Wallacean species enjoy these habitats. Australian Hobby, Rainbow Bee-eater, and White-breasted and Black-faced Wood- Swallows hawk for insects, and sit on exposed perches, while Glossy Swiftlets, Tree Martins, and Barn and Striated Swallows may be seen feeding overhead. Bushes and small trees attract species like Lesser Coucal and White-shouldered Triller, and in particular, we will be searching for the rare Timor Sparrow, a relative of the more familiar Java Sparrow. Large flocks of munias gather in the fields in search of seeds, with Black-faced, Fivecoloured and Scaly-breasted all likely, as well as groups of Zebra Finches which tag along. Mixed roosting flocks of Eastern Cattle Egrets and White-faced Herons are sometimes joined by a vagrant Royal Spoonbill. Fanning-out across some of the more open areas of fields, we will try to find a Red-backed Buttonquail amongst the commoner Brown Quails, and there are normally quite a few Long-tailed Shrikes, Paddyfield Pipits and Golden-headed Cisticolas to be seen. On the seaward side of the fields is a discreet area of fish- and shrimp-ponds and a small saltworks. Needless

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: The Lesser Sundas to say, this is a great area to look for shorebirds. Redcapped Plover, Far Eastern Curlew and Marsh Sandpiper are regular and we will be in with a chance of Sharptailed Sandpiper and Longtoed Stint. Striated (or Little) Heron and Whiskered Tern often occur. A small rushy marsh holds White-browed Crake, and often a few Paleheaded Munias which tend to shun the open fields. At dusk the characteristic song of the endemic Streaked Boobook (split from Southern) is frequently heard, and we should hopefully be able to lure it into view. We will spend our second full day birding along the road and trails running through the forest above Camplong. The habitat differs considerably from the Bipolo forest, and quite a few of the specialities of the Timor and Wetar Endemic Bird Area are more readily found here, such as the pretty White-bellied Chat, that notorious skulker the Buff-banded Thicket-Warbler and the tiny Timor Stubtail. Bamboo thickets harbour another much sought-after endemic, the attractive Black-banded Flycatcher, while fast-moving groups of the hyperactive Spotbreasted Dark-eye prefer the thicker mid-storey growth or low canopy. We will have further opportunities to find Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher and Orange-sided Thrush, Bulwer s Petrel (Nik Borrow) as well as more widespread species like Brush and Gould s Bronze-Cuckoos, Little Pied Flycatcher, Spectacled Monarch, and Sunda Bush and Timor Leaf Warblers (both of which are commoner at higher levels). Day 9 After another morning birding at either Bipolo or Camplong (depending on what we need to see), we will travel on to Soe, where we spend the next two nights. In the afternoon we will visit a nearby area of forest which is similar to that at Camplong. Here, we have a good chance of seeing Timor Black Pigeon and Barred-necked Cuckoo- Dove. Day 10 Today we will visit the 12,000 hectare Mount Mutis Nature Reserve, which includes Gunung Mutis (2427m), the highest mountain in West Timor. The unique montane forests here are dominated by stands of the near-endemic Eucalyptus urophylla, and form a crucial watershed for the island of Timor. Birding the access road and clearings early in the morning, we will hear the deep calls of Metallic Pigeon, which is quite easy to see here, and will try our best to track down the rare and elusive Timor Imperial Pigeon, one of the toughest endemics. Island Thrushes are common and easy to see, as are the busy flocks of Mountain White-eyes, along with the occasional Timor Leaf Warbler. The distinctive local race of the Pygmy Wren- Babbler utters its unusual song from rock outcrops, and often shows itself at very close range. Flocks of Olive-headed Lorikeets fly over the ridge here, and occasionally perch momentarily. A narrow trail winds its way towards the summit, and we will follow this in search of the imperial pigeon, as well as certain species that prefer the forest interior, such as the superb Chestnut-backed Thrush and more widespread Little Cuckoo-Dove, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, and Sunda Bush and Yellow-breasted Warblers. We will also explore some forest and clearings at lower levels in search of the tiny and now very rare Iris Lorikeet and the very colourful Tricoloured Parrotfinch. Day 11 This morning we will visit one of the forested areas within easy reach of Soe, in search of any species that we have missed so far, or want better views of. After lunch, we will return to Kupang for an overnight stay, stopping en route if time permits to look for migrant Oriental Plovers. Day 12 This morning we will take a flight to Ruteng, in the highlands of Flores. Upon arrival we will travel eastwards to the village of Kisol, where we will stay for two nights. We will stop along the way at Rana Mese, in the Ruteng Nature Recreation Park, for some introductory montane birding. During the afternoon, we will begin our exploration of the Kisol area. Day 13 The tiny village of Kisol, situated at the foot of the isolated, forest-covered Gunung Pacandeki, will be our base from which to explore the remnant lowland forest close by. Following a rocky track that passes right through the forest, we will soon hear the comical nasal calls of the bizarre Flores Crow, which lives in small groups below canopy level. This is one of the best places to look for the highly attractive Elegant Pitta, and several can often be heard calling at once, though seeing one takes patience and persistence. Even more efficient at keeping itself out of sight is the Chestnutcapped Thrush, a widespread but usually rare bird, that is a target for unscrupulous bird-traders. Easier to see is the brilliant blue and white White-rumped Kingfisher, which is readily located by its loud monotonous calls. A rich, rapid outpouring of song betrays the presence of the wild-eyed Thick-billed Dark-eye, which inhabits the thickish mid-storey. Low down, in the tangled understorey, cheeky Russetcapped Tesias utter their jumbled song, and we should eventually all get views of one. Positioning ourselves at the forest edge, we will scan Gunung Pacandeki in search of Kisol s most impressive resident, the huge Flores Hawk-Eagle, which regularly patrols the thickly forested slopes. Other forest birds that we will be on the lookout for are Variable Goshawk, Green Junglefowl (more often heard than seen here), Black-naped Fruit Dove, Little Minivet, and Spectacled and Black-naped Monarchs. If we are very fortunate, we will find the scarce Flores Green Pigeon, which visits the area in search of fruit. The forest edge is a good place to see hawking flocks of Edible-nest Swiftlets, as well as Black-fronted Flowerpecker, and the local race of Olive-backed Sunbird. As nightfall approaches, Sunda Nightjars call from different directions, and we will soon hear the distinctive rude, husky hoots of Moluccan Scops Owls emanating from the forest edge. Just inside the forest, we may also find the stocky Wallace s Scops Owl, with its deep, creepy call that gets louder and louder. Day 14 En route to Ruteng, where we will stay for three nights, we will spend the morning searching for high-

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: The Lesser Sundas altitude specialities in the splendid montane forest at Danau Rana Mese. The surroundings of this small lake are covered in mossencrusted, orchid-laden and fern-covered trees which harbour many of our target species. Feeding flocks along the roadside often hold Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, Browncapped Fantail (with its nasal calls), Flores Leaf Warbler, and both Yellow-browed and Crested Dark-eyes; the latter four all confined to Flores, Sumbawa and Lombok. Another distinctive species only found here and on Sumbawa, and readily located by its superb, powerful song, is the gorgeous Barethroated Whistler. The sombre Scaly-crowned Honeyeater, another near-endemic, is attracted in numbers to the many flowering trees. In the undergrowth by the roadside, a beautiful varied snatch of song will betray the presence of a Flores Shortwing, a highly distinctive form that is currently still lumped in the widespread Whitebrowed. Several species of pigeon occur, including the rather scarce Ruddy Cuckoo- Dove. Green Junglefowl can occasionally be seen along the roadside here and, and other species that we should see include Sunda Cuckoo, Pygmy Wren-Babbler, Mountain Tailorbird and a yellow-bellied montane race of the Oriental White-eye. If we are very lucky, we will stumble across one of the more difficult species, such as Sunda Thrush or Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch. In the afternoon we will visit the forested lower slopes below Golo Lusang. Many of the same species can be seen here but, in addition, we will have a good chance of finding the near-endemic Flores Jungle Flycatcher (now considered separate from Sumba Jungle), while Bonelli s Eagle can often be seen soaring above the slopes. After nightfall, we will search for one of the worlds least known nightbirds, the endemic Flores Scops Owl, but we really will need to make great efforts, and have luck on our side, to see this one! It was originally only known from three specimens collected 1896 until it was rediscovered near Ruteng in At first, its voice was misidentified as that of Redlegged Crake, but since this issue was resolved there have been several observations. We will also have more opportunities to try and find Wallace s Scops Owl. Days Some of our time in the Ruteng region will be devoted to some mid-elevation forest near the village of Pagal, to the north of Ruteng, where our main target will be the rare and declining Wallace s Hanging- Parrot. We should see these tiny psittacids flying like bullets low overhead, and with a bit of luck one or two will be observed in a favourite fruiting or flowering tree. This is also a very good area to see another endemic parrot, the noisy Flores Lorikeet (recently split from Rainbow), and Golden-rumped Flowerpecker is common. We will also visit the high pass of Golo Lusang. Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon is common here and we will have a good chance of seeing one giving its deep booming call from the treetops. Groups of Flores Lorikeet inhabit the forest at the pass, Rufousbellied Eagles skirt the ridges, and the dawn-chorus of Bare-throated Whistlers is very impressive. We shall also have the option of more nightbirding. Day 17 An early start will take us to some lovely forest at Puarlolo, along the road to Labuan Bajo where we will spend two nights. Here we will listen for a distinctive ringing whistle that could lead us to the extremely rare Flores Monarch, which was only discovered in 1971 and has still only been seen by very few birders. We will also have more chances to see Elegant Pitta and Chestnut-capped Thrush. Labuan Bajo is located at the western end of Flores and overlooks the famous island of Komodo. In the late afternoon we will explore the coastal scrub, fields and bits of mangrove near our hotel, which is a good place to see Lemon-bellied Whiteeye. Javan Plover can often be found along the beach, and exposed areas of mud attract a variety of commoner shorebirds. Day 18 Our boat will set sail during the early hours and we will aim to arrive at the Komodo National Park headquarters soon after dawn, where we will team-up with a park ranger who will guide us to the truly impressive Komodo Dragons. Even before reaching the pier, we may already have seen a lone Great-billed Heron standing on a quite stretch of shoreline, or a group of Beach Thickknees hunting crabs. Most of the birds will already be familiar to us, but the Yellowcrested Cockatoo, which is rare if not extinct over much of the rest of its range, is still relatively common here. Orange-footed Scrubfowl were once easy to see, but are now difficult, whereas the colourful Green Junglefowl is now relatively tame and confiding. If we are very lucky we will locate a roosting Moluccan Scops Owl. Apart from the dragons, numbers of Timor Deer are regularly encountered, and Green Turtles can often be seen loafing just offshore. The seas are quite rich in this region and, during the return journey to Labuan Bajo we will settle down to some dedicated sea-watching. Small numbers of Bulwer s Petrel often pass through the deeper channels, while Lesser Frigatebird, Whitebellied Sea Eagle and fishing groups of Black-naped Terns are frequently encountered. With some luck, we will spot Lesser Crested Tern, Bridled Tern or even a wintering Aleutian Tern. Small groups of Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins can also be found, and sometimes we encounter Risso s Dolphins. Day 19 Today we leave Nusa Tenggara and fly back from Labuan Bajo to Denpasar, where the tour ends in the afternoon or early evening. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are mostly of good to medium standard, but typically the latter. The hotels at Waingapu and Soe are fairly simple, but all rooms have private bathrooms. The guesthouse at Lewa is fairly basic, with shared bathroom facilities. The guesthouse at Kisol is very basic, with shared and quite primitive bathroom facilities. Road transport is by small coach, minibus or car. Walking: The walking ranges from easy to moderate, with some more difficult terrain to negotiate over relatively short distances. There will be one optional harder hike at Gunung Mutis. Climate: Most days in the lowlands will be hot, dry and sunny, but overcast conditions are fairly frequent and some rain can be expected. In montane areas it will be cool or warm and at the highest altitudes it can be decidedly cold at times. The humidity is often rather high. Bird Photography: Opportunities are worthwhile.