Left to right: (soldier), Maarten, (soldier), Wim, Filip, Oswaldo, checkpoint. Colombia. Birding Trip Report 11 th -26 th August 2017

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1 Left to right: (soldier), Maarten, (soldier), Wim, Filip, Oswaldo, checkpoint Colombia Birding Trip Report 11 th -26 th August 2017 Author: Wim Heylen ( , Facebook) Participants: Filip Beeldens, Wim Heylen, Regis Nossent, Maarten Schurmans

2 Preparation and logistics We arranged our trip through Multicolor Birding Colombia, the birding company run by Pablo Florez, who should need no introduction. During the trip planning stage, Pablo provided very useful updates on the security situation, and made helpful suggestions to optimize our route in order to maximize birding time. The trip itself was organized in a very professional fashion focus was always on maximizing both the bird list and the birding time spent in the field, without any adverse impact on general logistics such as food and lodging. Drivers and guides With the exception of the first and the last day of the trip (which were spent in the Bogotá area), Juan Lopez Zuluaga was our driver for the trip. He has done an excellent job always on time, tireless, friendly, funny, speaks very good English, knows his birds well, fixer of unexpected issues, He s definitely one of the most professional birding drivers we have ever traveled with. Juan saw his 1000 th species for his Colombia list during our trip (Lesser Greenlet!). Juan drives a 7 seat Mitsubishi 4x4 luggage is stored on the roof, packed in a waterproof bag with extra plastic cover. During the first leg of the trip (Anchicayá Valley, San Cipriano, Otún-Quimbaya), Johnnier Arango-Bermúdez accompanied us as a bird guide. Johnnier lives in El Cairo, and as a native of the Western Andes he knows the area and its birds very well. He managed to identify a few tricky species by voice which we surely would have missed otherwise (Purplish-mantled Tanager!), and was always relentlessly looking for new birds. We can wholeheartedly recommend him he has his own company as well (The Andean Birder). In the Cañon del Combeima area, we were accompanied by local guide Carlos Guevara who helped us find the Tolima endemics. In Medellín, Pablo joined the trip to guide us in the Urabá area. It was his first visit to the area (Carépa and Mutatá) as well, so it was a bit of a discovery trip, but his extensive experience and knowledge of the Colombian avifauna did help us a lot in finding some of the specialty birds. Finally, on our last day in Sumapaz, we were guided by Oswaldo Cortes. He is a scientist and bird researcher with a great sense of humour and vast knowledge of the terrain.

3 Itinerary Our initial plan was to start in the north in Perijá, and then head south, birding the Eastern and Central Andes. However, due to recent security issues in the Perijá area (incl. the apparent closure of the ProAves lodge), Pablo strongly recommended us to avoid the area. So we adapted the route, and ultimately we ended up following a mostly western itinerary (Cali, Urabá) with a detour into the Central Andes for a few specialty birds (Fuertes Parrot, Hooded Antpitta) and for the Tolima endemics. Below snapshot from Google Maps shows where we have birded.

4 Below table provides an overview of the itinerary that we followed during our trip. I have included timing estimates so you get an idea how much time we spent birding in the different areas and driving between sites. Where possible, I have included links to Google Maps showing the exact location of the referenced site. Date Program 11/8 Flights to Bogotá. Night in Hotel Ibis Bogotá Museo. 12/8 06H00-07H30 Flight to Cali. 07H30-09H15 Drive to Finca Alejandría (Paraiso de los Colibries) in the EL18 area. 09H15-12H45 Birding at Finca Alejandría (feeders, forest patch). 12H45-13H45 Drive to Queremal and into the Upper Anchicayá Valley. 13H45-14H45 Lunch+birding at roadside restaurant El Descanso km 55 (Doña Dora) along the Upper Anchicayá road. 14H45-17H50 Birding along the Upper Anchicayá road. Night in a hotel in Queremal. 13/8 04H50-05H50 Drive to Lower Anchicayá Valley. 05H50-18H10 Birding Lower Anchicayá Valley. Night in a hotel in Aguaclara. 14/8 06H30-12H15 Birding Lower Anchicayá Valley. 12H15-13H45 Lunch in Aguaclara. 13H45-16H45 Drive + brujita to San Cipriano. 16H45-19H00 Birding+owling in San Cipriano. Night in a hotel in San Cipriano. 15/8 05H15-11H00 Birding San Cipriano. 11H00-13H20 Start driving to Santa Rosa de Cabal. 13H20-14H20 Lunch+birding at roadside restaurant La Cabañita along the Cali-Dagua road. 14H20-16H00 Driving. 16H00-17H20 Birding on the north side of Laguna de Sonso. 17H20-20H30 Driving. Night in a hotel in Santa Rosa de Cabal. 16/8 05H00-15H05 Drive+birding up the road to Termales San Vicente. 15H05-15H30 Productive roadside stop on the way down. 15H30-17H25 Drive to Otún-Quimbaya. 17H25-18H25 Birding at Otún-Quimbaya. Night at Otún-Quimbaya Visitor Centre. 17/8 05H50-19H00 Birding at Otún-Quimbaya. Night at Otún-Quimbaya Visitor Centre. 18/8 05H50-09H15 Birding at Otún-Quimbaya. 09H15-13H00 Start driving to Juntas (Cañon del Combeima). 13H00-14H30 Birding at Alto de la Línea. 14H30-17H30 Driving. 17H30-18H15 Birding at Juntas (Canõn del Combeima). Night at Ukuku Rural Lodge. 19/8 06H30-09H50 Birding at Ukuku Lodge. 09H50-18H00 Birding at Cañon del Combeima. Night at Ukuku Rural Lodge. 20/8 06H00-08H00 Start driving to Medellín. 08H00-09H00 Roadside stops in dry scrub habitat east of Ibagué (#1, #2).

5 09H00-11H55 Driving. 11H55-12H05 Roadside stop in marshy habitat near Guarinocito. 12H05-13H05 Driving. 13H05-13H45 Roadside stop in another area of marshy habitat east of Rio Claro. 13H45-15H00 Driving. 15H00-16H30 Birding at Rio Claro (outside the reserve). 16H30-18H00 Driving. 18H00-19H00 Dinner & birding at restaurant El Palacio de Los Frijoles. 19H00-21H00 Driving. Night at Hotel Ibis Medellín. 21/8 05H30-07H15 Start driving to Mutatá (Urabá). 07H15-08H00 Birding along Cauca river. 08H00-09H00 Driving. 09H00-09H30 Birding stop. 09H30-14H15 Driving. 14H15-17H00 Roadside birding + a few trails close to the main road in Mutatá. Night in hotel Rio Real in Mutatá. 22/8 06H00-18H00 Full day birding on foot in Mutatá (La Bonga). Night in hotel Rio Real in Mutatá. 23/8 06H30-09H30 Birding trail close to the main road in Mutatá. 09H30-13H15 Drive to Turbo. 13H15-14H30 Boat to Bocas del Atrato. 14H30-17H15 Birding Bocas del Atrato. 17H15-18H15 Boat to Turbo. 18H15-19H30 Drive to Carépa. Night in a hotel in Carépa. 24/8 06H00-08H10 Drive into foothills east of Carépa to this town. 08H30-12H00 Walk along the river upstream to Finca Alborada. 14H00-18H00 Birding uphill from the Finca until this forest patch, and back. Night at Finca Alborada. 25/8 06H30-08H00 Birding around Finca Alborada interrupted by heavy rain. 09H30-12H00 Walk back down along the river to the town. 12H30-15H00 Lunch, drive to Parque Tulenapa. 15H00-17H30 Birding at Parque Tulenapa. 17H30-18H00 Drive to Apartadó airport, flight back to Bogotá. Night in Hotel Ibis Bogotá Museo. 26/8 05H00-07H00 Drive to Sumapaz. 07H00-15H30 Birding at Sumapaz. 15H30-17H15 Drive to Bogotá airport, flights to Europe. In hindsight, the only change that I would recommend would be to spend perhaps an extra day along the Anchicayá road, where some extra time in the higher and middle section would surely produce quite a few additional species.

6 Observado We entered many observations (particularly of key species) into Observado, using the ObsMapp app on our smartphones. You can therefore easily look up the exact location of a particular sighting if you would like to know in more detail where we observed a certain species. For this reason, I have left out specific location details from the daily accounts and from the annotated checklist. This data is available via these links: - Observations entered by Wim - Observations entered by Maarten - Observations entered by Regis Daily account August 11 th International flights to Bogotá. We were picked up at the airport and spent the night in the Hotel Ibis Bogotá Museo, which is about minutes from the airport, in a rather nice area of the city. August 12 th Our day started with a 6AM flight from Bogotá to Calí, where Juan and Johnnier picked us up at the airport. We soon headed off to Finca Alejandría (also known as Paraíso de los Colibries), in the area which is commonly referred to as EL18. The finca is basically a house/restaurant with a large garden that has a huge amount of feeders, and which is apparently visited very frequently by tourists who focus on bird photography during our visit, a bus load of Asian bird photographers was present as well. We saw 14 species of hummingbirds (including Purple-throated Woodstar, Long-tailed Sylph and Andean Emerald). Long-tailed Sylph - Finca Alejandría

7 The fruit feeders attracted Multicolored Tanager (not so easy, just 1 sighting all morning), Colombian Chachalaca, Golden Tanager, Red-headed Barbet, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager and Golden-naped Tanager. Golden Tanager - Finca Alejandría There are also some nice forest patches in the immediate vicinity of the Finca, which produced Chestnut-breasted Wren, Red-faced Spinetail, Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Narino Tapaculo (heard only), Ashy-throated Bush Tanager, Flame-rumped Tanager, and Beryl-spangled Tanager. In early afternoon we started heading west into the Anchicayá valley, and had lunch at roadside restaurant El Descanso km 55 (Doña Dora), which is located in prime habitat and has some feeders at the back. Best birds here were Empress Brilliant, White-tailed Hillstar, Toucan Barbet, Red-faced Spinetail (excellent views), Black-headed and Choco Brushfinch, and Rufous-throated Tanager. Choco Brushfinch El Descanso restaurant

8 Further exploration of the upper Anchicayá road in the same area produced more goodies such as Choco Tapaculo, Sooty-headed Wren, Yellow-throated Bush Tanager, Purplish-mantled Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, and Black-winged Saltator. We spent the night in a hotel in Queremal (basic but clean). August 13 th The first hour of the day was spent driving down Anchicayá road to a lower elevation. From there, we made regular birding stops, ultimately making our way down to the village of Aguaclara by the end of the day. Target birds came thick and fast Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Spot-crowned Barbet, Scarletthighed Dacnis, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Lesser Greenlet, and Pacific Antwren were all seen before 8AM. Perhaps the most productive stretch of road produced Scarlet-and-white Tanager, Zeledon s Antbird, Ornate Hawk-Eagle (flew in and perched right above our head in a big tree), Purple-throated Fruitcrow, and Ocellated Antbird. Johnnier and Juan were extremely pleased with the latter, it was a lifer for both of them, and we managed to see and photograph it very well. Ocellated Antbird (record shot) Lower Anchicayá More new birds showed up, such as our first Chestnut-backed Antbird of the trip, Black-capped Pygmy Tyrant, White-whiskered Puffbird (heard and eventually seen), Blue-whiskered Tanager, Esmeraldas Antbird, Dot-winged Antwren, Choco Warbler, Sulphur-rumped Myiobius, Purple-chested Hummingbird, Spot-crowned Antvireo (singing male), Stripe-throated Wren (great views, in a mixed flock), Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Spotted Woodcreeper, Lita Woodpecker, Pacific Flatbill, Emerald Tanager, and Moustached Antwren.

9 Lita Woodpecker Lower Anchicayá Particularly noteable was the observation of a family group of White-headed Wrens. Our guides pointed out to us that the local race in the Anchicayá valley of this species appears to be an undescribed subspecies with a dark belly. We didn t manage to take a picture ourselves but here s a picture taken by Anderson Muñoz in the past: We re not sure about the taxonomy of this race but you probably should try to see it when you are in the area (it might get you an armchair tick some day ). We continued birding throughout the day, and added more new birds Ruddy Foliage-gleaner, Lemon-browed Flycatcher, Rufous-winged Tanager, Ochre-breasted Tanager, White-crowned Manakin, Stub-tailed Antbird, Grey-and-gold Tanager, Golden-chested Tanager and Lemon-spectacled Tanager.

10 Lower Anchicayá road At a next stop, Juan spotted an Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove, which caused some frustration because only a few of us managed to catch a glimpse we would return to this spot the next day and make up for it big time though. We spent the night in an unnamed hotel in the village of Aguaclara again, basic but fine. August 14th The next morning, we returned to the lower parts of the Anchicayá road, which produced more Golden-chested, Grey-and-gold, Rufous-winged, Ochre-breasted and Scarlet-and-white Tanagers. There were also quite a few new birds such as Northern Tufted Flycatcher, a calling Barred Puffbird, Brown-capped Tyrannulet, Choco Trogon, Tooth-billed Hummingbird, Rufous Mourner, Dusky Pigeon, a highly debated female Blue-crowned Manakin, scope views of a perched Double-toothed Kite, and another Spot-crowned Antvireo. However, the star bird of the morning was the Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove, which decided to make up for the poor performance the day before and was walking in full view on the road for several minutes.

11 Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove Lower Anchicayá road After lunch, we drove from Aguaclara to San Cipriano. The first stretch of the road goes through secondary forest, which had Red-rumped Woodpecker, White-tailed Trogon, and Pied Puffbird. The last stretch to San Cipriano is reachable only by brujita, which is a motorcycle-powered cart on a railway. Brujita ready for takeoff San Cipriano

12 During the last hours of daylight, we birded the main trail in San Cipriano, and managed to score one of our main targets already Black-breasted Puffbird. Black-breasted Puffbird San Cipriano Supporting cast included Band-rumped Swift (hawking over the river), Swallow-tailed Kite (seen from a viewpoint near the entrance to the reserve), Crimson-crested Woodpecker and a Crested Owl at dusk. Night in a hotel in San Cipriano village. August 15 th We started early to try for Choco Poorwill (two individuals seen along the main trail). After breakfast, we spent some time at the viewpoint to look for Black-tipped Cotinga (distant views of 1 bird on the far side of the village), and then walked the main trail again in search for our other main target, Five-colored Barbet (at least four birds seen through the scope). We also enjoyed sightings of Bicolored, Spotted and Zeledon s Antbird, three more Black-breasted Puffbirds, and Tawny-faced Gnatwren. Around 10h30 we started heading out, as we still had a long drive ahead of us we needed to be in Santa Rosa de Cabal for the night. Our first proper birding stop en route was at a roadside restaurant La Cabañita along the Cali- Dagua road where the best birds were Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Golden-naped and Black-capped Tanager, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet and Red-headed Barbet. Our second birding stop was on the north side of Laguna de Sonso highlights here included a roosting Common Potoo, our first Spectacled Parrotlets, three Oriole Blackbirds (which appear to belong to a small, isolated population in the Cauca valley, according to HBW Alive), Apical Flycatcher, and last but not least a male Jet Antbird.

13 Common Potoo Laguna de Sonso After several more hours of driving, we finally reached Santa Rosa de Cabal around 20h30, where we spent the night in a hotel. August 16 th Our prime target for today was of course Fuertes s Parrot, as we were visiting the well-known stakeout east of Santa Rosa de Cabal. We ended up seeing at least nine individuals of this critically endangered species. Since this was our only day of the trip in mid-high elevation Central Andes (>2300m), we also managed to see quite a few bonus birds that we did not see elsewhere on the trip. For example: Chestnut-naped Antpitta (hopping on the road at first light), Bicolored Antpitta (excellent views of one individual), Mountain Avocetbill, Black-collared Jay, Grey-breasted and Black-billed Mountain- Toucans, Scarlet-bellied, Hooded, Buff-breasted and Lacrimose Mountain-Tanagers, Dusky Piha, Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia, Grass-green Tanager, Black-headed Hemispingus, Bar-bellied Woodpecker, Blue-backed Conebill, Ocellated Tapaculo, and many more.

14 Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager Santa Rosa de Cabal Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan Santa Rosa de Cabal Ocellated Tapaculo Santa Rosa de Cabal Barred Fruiteater Santa Rosa de Cabal Mid afternoon, we started driving to Otún-Quimbaya. On the way down, we made a random but productive roadside stop with six Golden-plumed Parakeets, Streak-capped Treehunter and White-naped Brushfinch. We arrived in the Otún-Quimbaya area around 17h30. We spent the night in the visitor centre, which had Crab-eating Fox and Tropical Screech-Owl (heard only) in the garden, and Mottled Owl along the main road close by. August 17 th The main purpose of our visit to Otún-Quimbaya was to try to see Hooded Antpitta. To maximize our chances, we planned to spend all prime birding time (two early mornings and one evening) in the habitat of our target bird.

15 Our first attempt was largely unsuccessful Johnnier said he heard it twice, and at one point, a small bird with the right jizz appeared to come flying in, but nobody connected. Around 07h00 we gave up and decided to walk the trail that extends beyond where the main road ends. Best birds in this area included Rusty-winged and Spotted Barbtail, Sickle-winged Guan, Torrent Duck, White-capped Tanager, Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet, Bronze-Olive Pygmy-Tyrant, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, several Andean Solitaires seen well, Cauca Guan, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, and Tyrannine Woodcreeper. After lunch, we walked over to a house near the visitor centre to stake out some flowering plants for White-throated Wedgebill - a single male made a few brief visits; luckily, we all got good views in the end. Other birds of note in this area were Andean and Western Emerald, Metallic-green Tanager, Pale-edged Flycatcher, Bar-crested Antshrike and Rufous-naped Greenlet. In late afternoon, we headed back out for our second attempt at the Hooded Antpitta but not before we picked up a Stiles s Tapaculo on the way. Again, we had no success with the antpitta. It briefly called, came a bit closer to check us out (Regis caught a very short glimpse) and then disappeared and did not return. Our final exploit on our way back to the lodge after dark was a perfect sighting of a Colombian Screech-Owl. Night at Otún-Quimbaya visitor centre. Colombian Screech-Owl Otún-Quimbaya August 18 th The day started with our third and final attempt for the Hooded Antpitta, and this time was the worst one of the three no sign whatsoever. Perhaps the birds were not territorial at this time of year, or perhaps they have been scared off by too many birders trying to see it (including ourselves) we will never know. We spent the rest of the morning birding along the main road and picked up several White-capped Tanagers, Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, another Bronze-olive Pygmy Tyrant, calling Chestnut Wood Quails, and a Multicolored Tanager. A calling Moustached Antpitta came very close but unfortunately we did not manage to see it.

16 Around 9h15 we set off on a long drive to Juntas in the Cañon del Combeima. We said goodbye to Johnnier, who was heading home, and then continued to Alto de la Línea where we made a stop in early afternoon. This high elevation site (3200m) was very quiet at first, but then we hit a nice flock, which included a beautiful Golden-crowned Tanager, a pair of Black-chested Mountain Tanagers, and Grey-hooded Bush Tanager. By 17h30 we reached Juntas and headed straight for the famous Tolima Blossomcrown stakeout near the bridge, and got great views of a Blossomcrown almost immediately as we arrived. We didn t realise how lucky we were at the time, as this turned out to be the only individual we saw during our 2.5 day stay in the area. We were staying in Ukuku Rural Lodge, a very nice place which we would recommend to anyone visiting the area. It has clean rooms, good food, friendly owners (Annie!), WiFi, a fantastic view of the snow-covered Nevado del Ruiz volcano (weather permitting), and (perhaps most importantly) the four Tolima endemics can be seen from the lodge premises: - Indigo-capped Hummingbird is common at the feeders, and Tolima Blossomcrown is also regularly seen we did not, but our driver Juan did see one in the gardens during our stay. - We saw several Yellow-headed Brushfinches in the garden. - We heard Tolima Dove on both mornings, and one was seen in flight close to the lodge. According to Annie, the doves visit the garden very regularly (feeding on rice) but not during our stay. The only thing to be aware of is the fact that the lodge is not reachable by vehicle you need to walk for about 1200m from the village, with the last 300m going rather steeply uphill (luggage is carried by horses). During our way up, we spotted a Violet-bellied Hummingbird in a flowering tree and a female Torrent Duck on the river. Batwoman Annie of Ukuku Lodge August 19 th We spent the first hours of the day birding around the lodge, seeing Lesser Violetear, Indigo-capped Hummingbird, Yellow-headed Brushfinch, White-tipped Swift, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Whiskered Wren, Streaked Saltator and Red-billed Emerald. The most unexpected event of the

17 morning happened when a large tree in the lodge garden suddenly fell down, and crashed only a few metres from the terrace of the lodge. Luckily, nobody was injured. We had hoped to see Tolima Dove in the garden, but it did not happen, so around 10h00 we decided to adopt a more active strategy to find it. We walked down to Juntas and started birding the main road (uphill from the village), which paid off quickly with a first sighting of Tolima Dove flying across the road, followed by a second sighting a few hours later of at least one (probably two) birds. Other new birds included Mountain Elaenia, Black-billed Peppershrike, Streak-headed Antbird, White-throated Toucanet, and more Yellow-headed Brushfinches. In the higher reaches of the canyon, we added Slaty Brushfinch, Grey-necked Wood Rail and Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant. Unfortunately, near the end of the canyon road, the weather deteriorated. In addition, the trail that starts there had been closed to the public because of a recent deadly accident on the mountain. This stopped us from entering unexplored habitat that could have produced a few more species (for example, Masked Saltator is regularly seen there). Finally, we made our way back to Juntas and walked up to the lodge again, seeing a third Tolima Dove flying by on the way up, close to the lodge. Maarten, looking for Tolima Dove - Ukuku Lodge Impressive moth spec. Ukuku Lodge August 20 th With all the Tolima target birds in the bag, and with a long day ahead of us (we needed to be in Medellín at the end of the day), we decided to leave at first light. Our first birding stop was focused on finding Velvet-fronted Euphonia (two females seen) in dry scrub habitat east of Ibagué. Other new birds in this area included Scrub Greenlet, White-tailed Kite, and Straight-billed Woodcreeper. A few hours down the road, we stopped at a wetland near Guarinocito. According to Juan, it s possible to see Northern Screamer here, but a lot of people were partying at the site so bird activity was rather low. We did see Pied Water Tyrant, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Yellow-chinned Spinetail and Wattled Jacana. Our next stop at another wetland east of Rio Claro turned out to be much more productive, with a pair of Northern Screamers, two Dwarf Cuckoos, Russet-throated and Pied Puffbird, Yellow-hooded and Red-breasted Blackbirds.

18 Around 15h00, we reached Rio Claro. Clearly, there was no time for proper birding, and to make matters worse, it was a long holiday weekend so the reserve was absolutely packed with people. We decided therefore not to enter the reserve proper, but to stay outside and bird along one of the side roads, focusing on the endemics of the area. This worked out quite well, as we saw a group of six White-mantled Barbets and got great views of two Sooty Ant Tanagers. We made one final stop at the restaurant El Palacio de Los Frijoles, which has some feeders, but it was too dark already so we didn t see much (just a Colombian Chachalaca). We arrived in Medellín around 21h00, and spent the night at Hotel Ibis Medellín. August 21 st After a short night, we met with Pablo in the hotel lobby, who was joining the trip here, and we soon set off in a northwesterly direction towards Urabá. Our first stop along the banks of the Cauca river produced Northern White-fringed Antwren, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Western Osprey, Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-backed Oriole, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Pearl Kite, and Black-chested Jay. At a second stop in what appeared to be suitable habitat, we were very happy to find a pair of Antioquia Wren. Antioquia Wren Cauca Valley After a short stop to see the (partial) solar eclipse, we reached Mutatá around 14h15 where we met local guide Willian and focused on roadside birding. We also birded along two trails close to the main road. The best bird was undoubtedly Baudo Oropendola other birds of note included Crested Oropendola, King Vulture, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Rose-faced Parrot, Purple-crowned Fairy, Golden-collared Manakin, Fulvous-vented Euphonia and a calling Uniform Crake. We spent the night in hotel Rio Real in Mutatá (basic but clean, WiFi available).

19 August 22 nd The plan for today was to visit Reserva La Bonga. This is not really an official reserve, but rather a number of remnant forest patches (in otherwise secondary habitat) near a finca (farm) called La Bonga. Reserva La Bonga can only be reached on foot via a muddy trail that runs slightly uphill to the east from the main road. The trail alternates between farmland, forest, forest clearings, river crossings, etc, so rubber boots are strongly recommended here, also because there is a healthy population of poisonous snakes in the area (Wim nearly stepped on a small Bothrops viper!). As it turned out, the finca is actually really far we estimated it to be 6 or 7 kilometers from the main road. And once you reach the finca, the trail continues for another 1-2 kilometers onto a very steep, forested hill (this is the best birding area). This turned the day into an arduous trek - overall, we walked about 18km on difficult terrain. Needless to say, we were quite exhausted when we finally made it back to the hotel. Birding highlights of the day: Baudo Oropendola, Olive-backed Quail-Dove (flushed from the trail), Golden-headed Manakin, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, Northern Barred Woodcreeper, Emerald Tanager, Spot-crowned Barbet, two Tooth-billed Hummingbirds, Song Wren, and Plumbeous Hawk. Good heard-only birds included Tody Motmot, Thicket Antpitta, Barred Puffbird and Berlepsch s Tinamou. August 23 rd In the morning, we birded another trail close to the main road at Mutatá. We were excited to encounter a large antswarm, accompanied by Ocellated (3), Bicolored, and Chestnut-backed Antbird unfortunately no ground cuckoo though. Other birds of note: Slate-colored Grosbeak, Golden-collared Manakin and Plain-breasted Hawk. At 09h30 we left for Turbo, where we arrived in early afternoon, chartered a boat to Bocas del Atrato and crossed the bay. Because of heavy spray, we had to sit underneath a plastic cover for most of the crossing, so we didn t see any birds. After dropping our luggage in the Bocas del Atrato lodge, we birded the boardwalk behind the lodge, which is only maybe 150m long but holds all the target birds. After approximately 1 minute, we were already enjoying scope views of our main target, Sootycapped Puffbird, and we also got great views of a pair of Black Antshrike. In the village itself, we found a few Sapphire-throated Hummingbirds, but no Sapphire-bellieds.

20 Sooty-capped Puffbird Bocas del Atrato Female Black Antshrike Bocas del Atrato At 17h00, we had seen all realistic targets, so we decided to try to change plans and to head back to the other side of the bay instead of spending the night in Bocas del Atrato, as this would give us more time the next day. Juan and Pablo managed to arrange a boat at short notice, and by 17h30 we were already heading back. We had a better boat this time with not so much spray, so were able to add some birds to the list: Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird, Cabot s and Royal Tern, (American) Black Tern, American White Ibis and Roseate Spoonbill. We also spotted a pod of dolphins possibly Guianan Dolphin (but not sure). We made it to Carépa by 19h40 where we spent the night in a hotel. August 24 th The plan for today was to get to Finca La Alborada, the birding lodge/farm of Carlos and William Bran of Urabá Birding by mid morning, and spend the rest of the day birding in the area. This turned out to be rather challenging. First, we needed to get to a small town east of Carépa. It took us about 2 hours to get there, including a birding stop with Barred Puffbird (finally seen). From the village, we had to walk upstream along the river for another 1h30m, so we were told. This was a significant underestimation though in the end we walked for 3.5 hours before we finally got to the finca around midday. Our luggage was carried by horses. The river trail posed another challenge, as it required us to cross the river very frequently. This was only possible with knee-high rubber boots. Unfortunately, Maarten s boots were too low, so he got his feet wet 10 times or more. Luckily, we got some good birds during the walk up a pair of Double-banded Greytail, Rufous-crested Coquette, Red-throated Caracara, Golden-fronted Greenlet, Plain-colored Tanager, and a Cotton-top Tamarin.

21 Cottontop Tamarin - Carépa After a much needed lunch break, we headed out again and discovered that we needed to climb the (steep) hill behind the finca to reach the best forest patch, where Rufous-crowned Antpitta occurs. Much of the forest on the lower slopes in the valley has unfortunately been cut, and is still being logged as we speak we saw numerous convoys of horses carrying timber back ot the village. One of many timber transports - Carépa On the way up, we hit a good flock that held another pair of Double-banded Greytail, a splendid Viridian Dacnis, and more Spot-crowned Barbets.

22 Viridian Dacnis (record shot) Finca La Alborada, Carépa We finally made it to the top after about 2h of serious climbing through deep mud, and started to look for the antpitta. It was completely unresponsive at first, but as the light was beginning to fade and we were about to give up, we finally heard it in the distance. Luckily it decided to approach us and in the end we got very good views of the Rufous-crowned Antpitta, out in the open on the trail for about 10 seconds. Completely exhausted but also totally satisfied, we descended to the Finca La Alborada where we spent the night. August 25 th The next morning we birded along the river, and saw a nice male Bare-crowned Antbird and another Rufous-crested Coquette. Around 08h00, it started to rain heavily, which not only made it impossible to keep on birding, but also posed a risk for our journey back along the river: if the water level would rise too much, we wouldn t be able to cross the river any more. We therefore started to walk back in heavy rain, while keeping an eye out for flash floods (another risk we were weary of). This time we were lucky after about an hour, the rains stopped, and it remained possible to cross the river. We even managed to see some more good birds along the way: Northern Royal Flycatcher, a pair of Grey-cheeked Nunlets, Long-billed Gnatwren, and a Fasciated Tiger Heron.

23 Grey-cheeked Nunlet - Carépa Fasciated Tiger Heron - Carépa We made it back to the village around noon and headed back to Carépa where we spent a few more hours in Parque Tulenapa. The park is an educational research facility of sorts, which has interesting sections of forest. It does not appear to be open to the public. We were hoping to see Black Oropendola here; apparently, they can sometimes be observed flying to their roosts around 17h00. We did see large numbers of Crested Oropendola but no Black ones. The most notable bird was a Collared Forest Falcon, which came flying in and perched right above us. We also spotted three more Cottontop Tamarins. Around 17h30, we left for the airport of Apartadó, where we said goodbye to Juan and Pablo, and boarded a plane to Bogotá. After an uneventful flight, we headed for Hotel Ibis Bogotá Museo where we enjoyed a much-anticipated hot shower. August 26 th On our last day of the trip, we visited Sumapaz, a high elevation parámo site south of Bogotá. We had the pleasure of being accompanied by Oswaldo Cortes, who met us before dawn in the hotel. After about 2h driving (including a breakfast/coffee stop), we reached the right elevation and habitat, and soon connected with many of our target birds. Bronze-tailed Thornbill, Rufous-browed Conebill, Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet, Pale-naped Brushfinch, Pale-bellied Tapaculo (seen very well), and Tawny Antpitta were all in the bag before we even reached the lake. There we saw Noble Snipe, Andean Teal, Andean Duck, Apolinar s Wren, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch and we got our first glimpses of Green-bearded Helmetcrest. Bronze-tailed Thornbill Sumapaz Tawny Antpitta - Sumapaz

24 We continued walking and driving along the main road, seeing more Helmetcrests, many more Bronze-tailed Thornbills, Andean Tit-Spinetail, Andean Siskin, Many-striped Canastero, Chestnutwinged Cinclodes, White-chinned Thistletail, Shining Sunbeam, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle. We heard Bogotá Rail at a few locations, but unfortunately, we were unable to entice it into view. Around 14h30, we started to head towards the airport, but we made two more stops in suitable habitat for Silvery-throated Spinetail (seen with effort), which also produced a Black-backed Grosbeak. We made it to the airport around 17h15, had a final dinner at Crepes & Waffles, and headed back to Europe.

25 Annotated checklist Please refer to Observado for specific locations of (almost) all observations. Taxonomy used: IOC 7.3 Great Tinamou Tinamus major Near-threatened (NT) Lower Anchicayá Valley - HO - heard Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - HO - Heard in Lower Anchicayá Valley and in San Cipriano San Cipriano - HO - Heard at San Cipriano Berlepsch's Tinamou Crypturellus berlepschi Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga - HO - Heard at fairly close range Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Lower Anchicayá Valley - HO - heard Northern Screamer Chauna chavaria Near-threatened (NT) En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 2 birds in the marsh east of Rio Claro Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis En route Juntas-Medellín + stops birds en route in suitable habitat Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Otún-Quimbaya - 1 male Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - 1 female on the river during our walk to Ukuku Lodge Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - 1 male Cinnamon Teal Spatula cyanoptera Laguna de Sonso - 9 Andean Teal Anas andium Sumapaz Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Sumapaz - 4 Colombian Chachalaca Ortalis columbiana Country endemic Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - c5 birds en route to Finca Alejandría, and 2 more birds at the fruit feeders there En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 1 near the "Palacio de Los Frijoles" restaurant Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - HO - heard en route Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga - HO - heard Carépa - Finca Alborada - HO Cauca Guan Penelope perspicax Endangered (EN) Country endemic Otún-Quimbaya - 2

26 Otún-Quimbaya Otún-Quimbaya - HO - heard Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii Otún-Quimbaya Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - 2 Chestnut Wood Quail Odontophorus hyperythrus Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic Otún-Quimbaya - HO - heard Otún-Quimbaya - HO - a few heard Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - a few en route Laguna de Sonso En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal Santa Rosa de Cabal - a few en route Otún-Quimbaya Otún-Quimbaya En route - with stop at Alto de la Linia - a few en route Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - common En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - common Parque Tulenapa (Carépa) - 4 at Parque Tulenapa American White Ibis Eudocimus albus Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 seen from the boat in Turbo Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 3 flying by at Turbo Parque Tulenapa (Carépa) - 1 flying past Fasciated Tiger Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - 1 along the river Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Laguna de Sonso En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 2 Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 immature bird at Bocas del Atrato Striated Heron Butorides striata San Cipriano Laguna de Sonso En route Juntas-Medellín + stops Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 en route Carépa - Finca Alborada - 1 en route Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley en route Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 1 en route Laguna de Sonso - common

27 En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal - common Santa Rosa de Cabal en route En route - with stop at Alto de la Linia - fairly common en route Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - fairly common En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - common Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - common Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few Parque Tulenapa (Carépa) Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - 1 en route Laguna de Sonso En route Juntas-Medellín + stops Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 at Bocas del Atrato Great Egret Ardea alba Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - a few en route Laguna de Sonso En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - common Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few en route Snowy Egret Egretta thula Laguna de Sonso - a few En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal - A few Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 2 during a roadside stop along the Cauca river Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato from the boat Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato from the boat Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus San Cipriano Laguna de Sonso - common En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - a few Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 en route Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - common at Bocas del Atrato Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 2 en route En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - common Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - fairly common en route Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - common Carépa - Finca Alborada - common Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 at Bocas del Atrato

28 Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common throughout. King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 at Mutatá Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 en route Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - 1 en route Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 along the Cauca river White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 1 bird in dry scrub habitat in the Magdalena valley Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 along the Cauca river Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus San Cipriano - 2 Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 5+ seen in San Cipriano, from the viewpoint as you exit the village and enter the reserve San Cipriano - a few Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga Carépa - Finca Alborada - 2 Ornate Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus ornatus Near-threatened (NT) Lower Anchicayá Valley - An adult bird came flying in and landed in a big tree right above our heads! Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - Scope views of 1 bird in the Lower Anchicayá Valley. Plain-breasted Hawk Accipiter ventralis En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal - 1 en route Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1, probably 2 birds at Mutatá Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 1 at San Cipriano San Cipriano - 1 (same bird in the same spot as yesterday) Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Laguna de Sonso - 3+ Plumbeous Hawk Cryptoleucopteryx plumbea Vulnerable (VU) Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga - 1 bird perched inside the forest Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 3

29 Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 at Mutatá Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 3+ en route Carépa - Finca Alborada - 1 Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris San Cipriano En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal Santa Rosa de Cabal - 1 en route Otún-Quimbaya Otún-Quimbaya En route Juntas-Medellín + stops Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - a few Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few en route Carépa - Finca Alborada Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - a few White-tailed Hawk Geranoaetus albicaudatus Santa Rosa de Cabal - 2 Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Sumapaz - 1 Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 3 birds together en route Bogota Rail Rallus semiplumbeus Endangered (EN) Country endemic Sumapaz - HO - 2 or 3 heard at close range, but we did not manage to see one, unfortunately Grey-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 along the Cauca river Uniform Crake Amaurolimnas concolor San Cipriano - HO - Heard only Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - HO - 1 calling along a roadside trail at Mutatá Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 1 Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Laguna de Sonso - a few En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - a few American Coot Fulica americana Sumapaz - 5+ Limpkin Aramus guarauna Laguna de Sonso - 2

30 Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Laguna de Sonso - 5+ Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley en route Laguna de Sonso En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal - A few Santa Rosa de Cabal Otún-Quimbaya En route - with stop at Alto de la Linia - a few en route Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - common Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - a few en route Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga - HO - heard Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few en route Carépa - Finca Alborada - HO - heard Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - a few en route Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana En route Juntas-Medellín + stops Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - 1 en route Noble Snipe Gallinago nobilis Near-threatened (NT) Sumapaz - 2 Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius San Cipriano Laguna de Sonso En route Juntas-Medellín + stops Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few from the boat Carépa - Finca Alborada - a few Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - a few along the river Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Laguna de Sonso - 2 Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Laguna de Sonso - 1 Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca Laguna de Sonso Sumapaz - 2 Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 3+ from the boat Cabot's Tern Thalasseus acuflavidus Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 2 from the boat Black Tern Chlidonias niger

31 Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - ssp surinamensis - 1 from the boat Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Santa Rosa de Cabal Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - 5+ Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis San Cipriano - HO - Heard Laguna de Sonso En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - HO - heard Short stop near Rio Claro Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few at Bocas del Atrato Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - HO - 1 heard along the upper Anchicayá road. Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea Vulnerable (VU) Lower Anchicayá Valley - 1 Dusky Pigeon Patagioenas goodsoni Lower Anchicayá Valley - Scope views of 1 bird Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 2 in lower Anchicayá, heard at San Cipriano San Cipriano - HO - Heard Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga - HO - heard Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - fairly common Laguna de Sonso - fairly common En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal - a few Santa Rosa de Cabal - a few en route Otún-Quimbaya En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - fairly common Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - fairly common en route Carépa - Finca Alborada - a few Parque Tulenapa (Carépa) - a few Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove Geotrygon purpurata Endangered (EN) Lower Anchicayá Valley - A glimpse of a single bird for some Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - Excellent views of a bird on the road in the lower Anchicayá valley. Olive-backed Quail-Dove Leptotrygon veraguensis Mutatá - Reserva La Bonga - ssp veraguensis - Poor views of 1 individual flushed from the trail White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - HO - a few heard at Finca Alejandría Carépa - Finca Alborada - 2 seen, more heard Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - a few

32 Tolima Dove Leptotila conoveri Endangered (EN) Country endemic Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) - Heard at Ukuku Lodge at dawn. 1st bird was seen as it flew across the road just in front of us. Later Regis found 1 or 2 more birds, and we managed to get scope views of one. In late afternoon as we walked back up to Ukuku Lodge, another individual flew across the track Cañon de Combeima - Heard near Ukuku lodge at dawn Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Finca Alejandría - Paraiso de los Colibries (EL18) + Upper Anchicayá Valley - common en route, also seen at Finca Alejandría En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal - a few Santa Rosa de Cabal - a few en route Otún-Quimbaya - a few En route - with stop at Alto de la Linia - a few en route En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - fairly common Sumapaz - a few en route Greater Ani Crotophaga major Laguna de Sonso Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 3 along the Cauca river Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - 1 at Bocas del Atrato Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 1 en route Laguna de Sonso En route from San Cipriano to Santa Rosa de Cabal Santa Rosa de Cabal - a few en route En route - with stop at Alto de la Linia - a few en route En route Juntas-Medellín + stops Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - fairly common Mutatá + drive and boat to Bocas del Atrato - a few at Bocas del Atrato and en route Finca Alborada + return to Carépa - a few Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - HO - Heard in the marshy area east of Rio Claro Dwarf Cuckoo Coccycua pumila En route Juntas-Medellín + stops - 2 birds in the marshy area east of Rio Claro were a bit of a surprise. Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Lower Anchicayá Valley Lower Anchicayá Valley + San Cipriano - 3+ in lower Anchicayá and en route Otún-Quimbaya - HO - heard Cañon de Combeima (Juntas) Short stop near Rio Claro Roadside birding in Mutatá + en route from Medellín - 1 at Mutatá Tropical Screech Owl Megascops choliba Otún-Quimbaya - HO - Heard at the Otún-Quimbaya lodge at night Otún-Quimbaya - HO - Heard at Otún-Quimbaya lodge at night