FRANCE: Limosa Trip Report. Tour Leader: Arnoud van den Berg

Transcription

1 Limosa Trip Report FRANCE: High Pyrenees in Autumn 3rd-9th September 2009 Alpine Accentor, French Pyrenees, September 2009 Arnoud van den Berg. For a more extensive selection of photos taken on this tour please visit our Gallery at Tour Leader: Arnoud van den Berg 1 Limosa Holidays, Suffield House, Northrepps, Norfolk NR27 0LZ, England tel: +44 (0) fax: +44 (0) info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 Trip Diary Our September tour began with a morning flight to Toulouse, where Arnoud was ready and waiting. Following the Garonne upstream, our birding started with a stop overlooking a scenic, shallow corner of the river to watch a couple of Common Sandpipers and Kingfishers, along with several Little Egrets. Nearing our delightful picnic spot in the Pyrenean foothills, we watched four Booted Eagles calling and circling overhead. In the woodlands, we found a family flock of Firecrests. After lunching here, we travelled on to Lourdes and headed up into the Pyrenees, stopping along the way at a high cliff to watch a remarkable number of raptors - including quite a few Eurasian Griffons and Egyptian Vultures, Red Kites and a single Marsh Harrier. Evening arrival at our hotel in the lively but small and historic town of Luz St Sauveur, with its friendly staff and delicious meals. Our first full day in the French Pyrenees saw us enjoying our great walk up into the Cirque de Gavarnie. This exercise is a must for the breath-taking beauty of the landscape alone. Clouds were covering parts of the cliffs, adding to the dramatic and even mysterious atmosphere. Among many exciting highlights today, the best was undoubtedly a Wallcreeper that flew overhead and was watched by telescope when it had landed on a nearby cliff. Not far away, a mixed flock of Citril Finches and a few Serins was another notable find. Perhaps most impressive was the sight of a group of Pyrenean Chamois which had descended quite low into the cirque with a couple of young, grazing and digging for food. In the pinewoods, two curious Crested Tits came close in response to some pishing. On the way up, we d also heard the melancholic fluty calls of Bullfinches, but it was not until we were on the way back down again before we finally managed to get one in the scope. Twice, a beautiful Red Squirrel with a black tail was seen at eye level. Last but not least were an adult Lammergeier and many Eurasian Griffons soaring overhead. Next morning, the valley at Luz was covered in low clouds. Nevertheless, we decided to drive uphill, towards Tourmalet. As anticipated, halfway up the pass we emerged above the cloud level and into spectacular scenery, bathed in full sunshine. We first stopped at an Alpine Marmot colony, watched the ubiquitous Water Pipits, Northern Wheatears and Black Redstarts, and then enjoyed a coffee at the cyclists cafe on top. Walking the trail, some distant Lammergeiers were seen but, ironically, the best birds were spotted from the road, where a juvenile Golden Eagle, a hunting Red Kite, many Eurasian Griffons and single migrating Osprey, Black Kite and Honey Buzzard were all admired. Day four saw the weather improving further; there were no clouds and no wind, with temperatures reaching 28 Celsius in the afternoon. It would stay that way during the rest of our week. We explored the valley east of Gedre, walking through the woods below the Lac de Gloriettes and over the dam. On the south side of the cliff above the lake, we enjoyed the looks of a variety of passerines, among them Linnets, Yellowhammers and rufous-tailed Rock-thrushes. In the woods, many migrants seen included a tree full of Blackcaps and a confiding Willow Warbler. We continued east on to the long mountain road to the scenic Cirque de Troumouse. After a cafe stop for coffee and chocolate, we headed back towards Gedre, making a successful stop at a stake-out for Dipper. At Saugué, high on the west side of Gedre, overlooking Cirque de Gavarnie, we found a juvenile Montagu s Harrier flying back and forth wearing a coloured wing tag on each wing. The following day was dedicated to visiting the Port de Boucharo. Just before the Spanish border, we experienced some miraculous moments during a peak hour of high migrants. All at the same time, more than a hundred Alpine Swifts, a Marsh and a Hen Harrier, a Short-toed and a Golden Eagle, a few Rock-thrushes and flocks of Barn Swallows passed through. The Alpine Swifts were reluctant to continue south and turned slowly back while singing now and then. When this spectacle had calmed, we walked further along the cliffs, successfully searching for confiding Alpine Accentors in the thistle-covered screes. On Tuesday, we spent all day in perhaps the most beautiful high-altitude birding valley: the Vallée d Ossoue. In the morning, we found many roosting Griffons here. As in other high cliff areas, large flocks of House and Crag Martins were still at their breeding colonies. It took a while before two adult Lammergeiers turned up. Soon, they disappeared again, into a deep cave, apparently a new nesting site. We waited for an hour beneath the cliff before they came out again for a beautiful performance. We had our lunch further into the valley at a boulders area with berry bushes, where we watched some passerine migrants as Spotted Flycatcher and Whinchat. The star of the afternoon was a Short-toed Eagle, which was perched on a rock while being mobbed by a flock of 50 Red-billed Choughs - until it spotted, from hundreds of metres distance, a snake on the road next to us. It flew directly towards us, grabbed the snake, landed on a boulder, swallowed the snake whole - and then flew off! 2 Limosa Holidays

3 Remarkably, when we reached the barrage at the end of the valley, below the glacier, the same bird turned up and again picked up a snake, offering yet more unbelievable views! The last day and we returned to Toulouse via the scenic route - over Col du Tourmalet! After some more excellent mountain birds, the rest of the day was a copy of the first, but in the opposite direction. A flowering Buddleia bush offered some beautiful butterflies, including Swallowtail. When we arrived at our lunch site in the foothills two Hobbies showed up to increase the total number of raptor species for this trip to a remarkable sixteen. Thanks for a great trip! Systematic List of Birds Recorded (90 species) Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Several were present in the Garonne river on 3 rd and 9 th. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Several were seen in flight between Toulouse and Cazeres on 3 rd. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Apart from a few individuals in the Garonne area on 3 rd, we had singles flying over Luz St Sauveur on 4 th and roosting on a tree along the river near Gedre on 8 th. On 9 th, we passed a recently harvested field at Campan where more than 50 presumed migrants had landed. Little Egret Egretta garzetta A total of 20 individuals were noted for the Garonne on 3 rd. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo One flew overhead at Mauran along the Garonne on 3 rd. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Seen every day, with a maximum of c 20 on 5 th, also present at the highest locations of Tourmalet and Port de Boucharo. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo On 9 th, two were giving excellent views when circling above our picnic spot near Ausseing, attacking a Sparrowhawk. Osprey Pandion haliaetus On 5 th, a juvenile migrated south across Col du Tourmalet. European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus Only one migrant seen this year. It flew south over La Mongie and low past us towards a clouded Col du Tourmalet on 5 th. Red Kite Milvus milvus On 3 rd, a total of six was seen underneath Pic de Pibeste. On 5 th, probably the same bird flew past us several times at Col du Tourmalet; it was photographed while eating a Water Pipit in flight. On the 9 th, two were flying between Campan and Barreges de Bigorre, and two along the A64. Black Kite Milvus migrans On 3 rd, one was noted at Pic de Pibeste. On 5 th, one migrated south over Col du Tourmalet. Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus On 4 th, an adult flew over Cirque de Gavarnie. On 5 th, a juvenile/immature and an adult were seen over mountain tops at Col du Tourmalet. In the morning of 7 th, a juvenile was circling above Gedre village, together with Common Buzzards and a Golden Eagle. On 8 th, we had splendid views of two adults below a nest near Vallée d Ossoue. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus In the late afternoon of 3 rd, we had fine views of two pairs at Pic de Pibeste. Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Common in the high Pyrenées with up to 90 individuals per day. On 5 th, we watched more than 30 on the ground below Col du Tourmalet. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus A total of three juveniles were seen. We had brief views of one flying south above Port de Boucharo on 7 th and another was flushed from roadside trees at Mauran on 9 th. On 8 th, we had excellent views of a well-performing individual at Vallée d Ossoue; twice, this bird managed to catch and swallow a snake at rather close range. 3 Limosa Holidays

4 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus On 3 rd, a juvenile flew past Pic de Pibeste. On 7 th, a juvenile migrated over Port de Boucharo. Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus On 7 th, an adult male migrated over Port de Boucheron, offering views from below. Montagu s Harrier Circus pygargus In the late afternoon of 6 th, a juvenile was flying back and forth over the fields of Saugué, high above Gedre. The identification was not easy as it appeared to have rather broad wings; however, photographs showed that the underside was unstreaked and orangey. It also had a coloured tag on each wing which will tell us where its nest was and when it fledged. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Three singles were seen: one above the cliffs of Gloriettes on 6 th, one along the road to Gavarnie on 7 th, and one above our picnic stop near Ausseing on 9 th. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Numerous in the foothills on 3 rd and 9 th, with daily totals of more than 10. In the Pyrenées, a few pairs present near Gedre (on 5 th, 6 th, 7 th ) and at Cirque de Gavarnie and the Boucharo ski station (on 4 th, 7 th ). Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos On 5 th, a juvenile was hovering and circling above a ridge south of Col du Tourmalet, offering lenghty scope views. On 7 th, adults were watched above Gedre and above Port de Boucharo, the latter being photographed at close range. On 8 th, an adult flew high over Vallée d Ossoue. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus (Aquila pennata) On 3 rd, three dark-morphs and a pale-morph flew above the road between Mauran and Ausseing. Also on 3 rd, one dark-morph was seen at Pic de Pibeste. On 9 th, a pale-morph flew high over our picnic stop at Ausseing. Common Coot Fulica atra Noted at roadside pond along the Garonne on 3 rd. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus On 3 rd, we had a distant view of one among rocks in the Garonne near Mauran. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos On 3 rd, two were roosting, flying and foraging in the Garonne near Mauran. Feral Rock Dove Columba livia Noted on most days. Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus Singles were seen on 3 rd and 6 th. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Seen every day and common near houses and hotel. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba On 7 th, a high number of more than 100 on migration was circling and singing (!) above Port de Boucharo. Common Swift Apus apus On 4 th, five were migrating over Cirque de Gavarnie. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis On 3 rd, two were flying, perched on rocks and trees, and hovering when foraging at the Garonne near Mauran. Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major Seen on 3 rd and 9 th along the roads between Mauran and Ausseing. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio A juvenile perched in a flowering Buddleia bush along the road between Gedre and Gavarnie on 8 th. Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Commonly seen every day. Common Magpie Pica pica Commonly seen every day, except 4 th (Cirque de Gavarnie). Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Commonly seen above the treeline. Numerous at La Mongie below Col du Tourmalet on 5 th (foraging flock of 50) and 9 th. Also a vocal flock of 50 was present at Vallée d Ossoue on 8 th. Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus Commonly seen at the highest mountains: c 10 at Col du Tourmalet on 5 th, a few above Gloriettes and Troumouse on 6 th, 30 at Port de Boucharo on 7 th, and a flock of c 50 high in Vallée d Ossoue on 8 th. 4 Limosa Holidays

5 Carrion Crow Corvus corone Common and seen every day at lower elevations, including Luz St Sauveur and Gedre. Common Raven Corvus corax Seen daily with several pairs at Col du Tourmalet on 3 rd and 9 th, one pair at Cirque de Gavarnie on 4 th, more than three pairs at Cirque de Troumouse and near Cirque d'estaubé on 5 th, one pair at Saugué above Gedre on 6 th, one pair at Port de Boucharo on 7 th, and one pair in Vallée d Ossoue on 8 th. Marsh Tit Poecile palustris Heard during our picnic in the foothills at Ausseing on 9 th. Coal Tit Periparus ater Common in pinewoods around Luz St Sauveur and Gavarnie. Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus On 4 th, a pair was seen at close range and several were heard at Cirque de Gavarnie. Great Tit Parus major Seen on three days. Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus Only noted in the foothills on 3 rd. Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Seen every day. Nesting in Luz St Sauveur near the hotel. Numerous in Cirque de Gavarnie and in Vallée d Ossoue. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Migrating flocks were noted on 3 rd, 7 th (50 above Port de Boucharo), and 9 th. Northern House Martin Delichon urbicum Numerous and seen daily. Large breeding colonies at high elevation were found in Cirque de Gavarnie and in Vallée d'ossoue. Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Several flocks on 3 rd, 4 th (in Cirque de Gavarnie) and 9 th. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus On 6 th, two migrants were photographed below Gloriettes. On 9 th, one was seen at a road restaurant along the A64. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Singles were seen and heard at Ausseing on 3 rd and 9 th, and at Cirque de Gavarnie on 4 th. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Common and seen every day. Garden Warbler Sylvia borin One was seen at Cirque de Gavarnie on 4 th. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis One was seen below Gloriettes on 6 th. Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla On 3 rd, a family party was watched below Ausseing. Others were heard on most days, including on 4 th in Cirque de Gavarnie. Goldcrest Regulus regulus A few were seen in Cirque de Gavarnie on 4 th. Northern Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Heard and seen on three days, above Gedre and Gavarnie. Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea Heard at our picnic stop in the foothills on 3 rd and 9 th. Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria On 4 th, one was seen well on the cliffs at the Cirque; it also flew overhead. Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris On 4 th, the species was heard in Cirque de Gavarnie. Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla On 3 rd and 9 th, the species was heard in the woods near the picnic stop of Ausseing. European Starling Sturnus vulgaris Common along the A64 on 3 rd and 9 th. Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula Seen on most days. 5 Limosa Holidays

6 European Robin Erithacus rubecula Seen every day, with juveniles in Cirque de Gavarnie on 4 th and Vallée d'ossoue on 8 th. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Seen every day (except 3rd), being numerous above the treeline. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus A total of four seen: one at Cazeres on 3rd, two below Gloriettes on 6 th and a male at Vallée d Ossoue on 8 th. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra A juvenile was present at Saugué above Gedre in the late afternoon of 8 th. On 9 th, two were perched on electricity wires at Ausseing. European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola A juvenile was seen above Mauran on 3 rd and an adult on a fence below Ausseing on 9 th. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Common above the treeline and seen every day except 3rd. Common Rock-thrush Monticola saxatilis On 6th, two were seen at close range above Lac de Gloriettes. On 7 th, a total of three was present at Port de Boucharo. On 8 th, one was foraging amongst boulders in Vallée d Ossoue. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata On 8 th, two singles were seen at Vallée d Ossoue. Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca Abundant in the woods and forests, also at high elevation, and noted on every day. White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus In total, five individuals seen at four sites: at Cirque de Gavarnie on 4 th, at Gedre village (two) on 6 th, at a camping south of Gavarnie on 7 th and at the Ossoue barrage on 8 th. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Seen on 3 rd and 9 th. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus One was seen at Cazeres on 3 rd. White-winged Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis On 9 th, a flock of c 20 was briefly seen on a distant roof. Unfortunately, before we got closer, the birds had disappeared. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris On 7th, a total of seven seen near Port de Boucharo, offering close range views. Dunnock Prunella modularis Common in the Cirque de Gavarnie, at Barrage des Gloriettes and at Vallée d'ossoue, from 4 th to 8 th. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Common and seen every day (maximum of 20 on 6 th ), both in the low Garonne and in the Hautes Pyrenées. White Wagtail Motacilla alba Rather common and seen almost every day. A family was present in Gavarnie on 4 th. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis On 4th, two were seen at Gavarnie. On 6 th, several were calling during our picnic lunch at Cirque de Troumouse. Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta Locally abundant, mainly in grasslands above the treeline, especially at Col du Tourmalet and Vallée d'ossoue. Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Common and seen every day (except 7 th ). European Serin Serinus serinus On 4th, several were present in a mixed flock with Citril Finches above the treeline in Cirque de Gavarnie. On 7 th, three were foraging in the roadside of Port de Boucharo. European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Only one bird seen, on 5 th. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Seen on 3 rd and 4 th. Citril Finch Carduelis citrinella On 4th, a total of 40 were foraging at the Cirque. 6 Limosa Holidays

7 Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina A family was seen at Mauran on 3 rd. It was numerous above the treeline and seen almost every day (except 4 th and 9 th ), with flocks at Col du Tourmalet (5 th ) and Port de Boucharo (7 th ). Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra On 4th, a few were heard in the highest pine trees of Cirque de Gavarnie. Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula On 4th, a male was seen by telescope and a female in flight at Cirque de Gavarnie. The call was heard below Lac de Gloriettes on 6 th. Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella On 4th, one flew past in Cirque de Gavarnie. On 6 th, five were present above Lac de Gloriettes. Mammals (scientific names follow The atlas of European mammals (Poyser, 1998) Pyrenean Chamois Rupicapra pyrenaica On 4th, a group of nine was photographed below the waterfall in Cirque de Gavarnie. Eurasian Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris On 4th, two singles were seen in pine trees of Cirque de Gavarnie; they had a black tail. Snow Vole Microtus nivalis A few holes were seen and some were hunted by raptors at Vallée d Ossoue. Alpine Marmot Marmota marmota Seen (or heard) on every day. Most numerous at Tourmalet and in Vallée d'ossoue. Butterflies & Moths Hummingbird Hawk-moth Macroglossum stellatarum Common and seen most days, some photographed, at high elevations. Clouded Yellow Colias crocea Numerous and photographed at high elevations. Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa Seen at Gloriettes on 6 th and at Vallée d'ossoue on 8 th. Swallowtail Papilio machaon Photographed while feeding on a Buddleia below Ausseing on 9 th. European Peacock Inachis io Several below Ausseing on 9 th. Queen of Spain Fritillary Isoria lathonia Common and photographed at Port de Boucharo on 7 th and Vallée d'ossoue on 8 th. 7 Limosa Holidays