TRIP REPORT: NEW ZEALAND DATES: 31 OCTOBER 13 NOVEMBER 2011 GUIDE AND PHOTOGRAPHS: NICK LESEBERG

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1 TRIP REPORT: NEW ZEALAND DATES: 31 OCTOBER 13 NOVEMBER 2011 GUIDE AND PHOTOGRAPHS: NICK LESEBERG The indigenous tribes of New Zealand, the Maori, call their land Aotearoa, or Long White Cloud. On this particular trip we were given ample reminder of why this is so, as we spent the trip variously dodging rain, snow, wind and sometimes hail! Indeed on any trip to New Zealand, you should be aware that you are always at the mercy of Mother Nature, and on this trip we certainly paid our dues. The weather unfortunately cost us a couple of birds, but we were still rewarded for our efforts with some fantastic scenery, some fantastic experiences and of course many of New Zealand s fantastic birds. As usual the seabirds were a highlight, with pelagic trips off Kaikoura and Stewart Island throwing up six species and nine taxa of albatross, along with a good variety of other tubenoses. We dodged rain and snow to find one of the world s rarest waders, the Black Stilt, and also managed to see three species of kiwi and three species of penguin including the breeding endemic Fiordland Penguin. Throw in most of New Zealand s breeding land birds, and it was a good trip; one I d like to repeat next year, hopefully with a bit more sun! An enduring image of any trip to New Zealand a Wandering Albatross passing in front of the snow-capped Kaikoura Range. Page 1 of 30

2 Note The common names used by Clements for many New Zealand birds differs quite markedly from the common names that are in wide usage within New Zealand, and particularly in the popular field guides. I have used the Clements names in this report, but at their first mention have included the more commonly used local names in brackets to help avoid confusion. Clements is also conservative regarding the taxonomy of New Zealand birds when compared to some other authors, something to keep in mind when comparing lists from other trips. A good example is the New Zealand Robin which is sometimes split into three species. Although we saw all three Clements groups/subspecies, they are all recorded here as just New Zealand Robin. Day 1: Friday, 31 st October 2011 Dunedin to Christchurch. It s always good to start a trip with a sought-after bird, so on our first morning we found ourselves on a beach near Dunedin before dawn, waiting for a colony of the near-endemic Yellow-eyed Penguin to rise for the day. After just beating the rising tide, it wasn t long before the first pair of penguins came waddling down towards the surf from the scrub behind the beach. As I imagine I would be, they weren t keen to jump into the cold water, so we watched them standing on the edge of the water, seemingly psyching themselves up to take the plunge. They were soon joined by a few more, and over the next hour we watched about ten Yellow-eyed Penguins come down to brave the surf and head out for a day s Yellow-eyed Penguins on their way to the surf. fishing. After nearly getting stranded by the tide (I ll remember to check that next time!) we had a break for breakfast before returning to Aramoana, where we spent an hour getting our list off to a good start. On the beaches we found a couple of pairs of territorial Variable Oystercatchers, while on the distant Taiaroa Head we spied several pairs of Northern Royal Albatross sitting on nests at the start of their breeding seasons. A few Little Pied Cormorants were fishing in the harbour and we also picked up several of the introduced species widespread in New Zealand, with Chaffinch, European Goldfinch and Sky Lark getting on the list. We got moving north to Moeraki Point, one of my favourite spots in New Zealand; you can literally walk among the wildlife here, and much of it seems unconcerned by your presence. First up we saw a couple more Yellow-eyed Penguins, this time emerging from the waves after a day out in the surf, while searching the point itself produced a pair of very cute Little Penguins peering out from their burrow. Some nesting Spotted Shags were spotted on the Page 2 of 30

3 When you don t have a dancefloor, the nearest cliff ledge will do a Spotted Shag trying to attract a mate. cliffs, with a few birds displaying to attract mates. There was also plenty of activity at the Red-billed Gull colony, many birds being kept occupied trying to herd away the marauding Kelp Gulls, while the occasional White-fronted Tern floated past and a couple of Bronze (Stewart Island) Shags were seen flying low over the water, just beyond the surf. Finishing up at the point, we made a quick sight-seeing stop at the curious Moeraki Boulders, before continuing up the coast to Christchurch, our base for the next two nights. Day 2: Saturday, 1 st November 2011 Kaikoura Pelagic. Anyone who has done a birding trip to New Zealand would have no hesitation listing the Kaikoura Pelagic as one of the tour s high points. Today we were excited as we left Christchurch in bright sunshine, with things shaping up for a good trip. We made our first stop just outside Christchurch at the Ashley Estuary where we hoped to pick up a few shorebirds. We were in luck, with Bar-tailed Godwits and the endemic Blackfronted Tern both seen as we jumped out of the car, while sifting through the birds resting on a nearby sandbar produced Black-billed Gull and Double-banded Plover. A handful of pale waders resting quietly had evaded our attention, but were soon identified as one of New Zealand s best endemics, Wrybill, the world s only bird with a laterally asymmetrical bill. Male New Zealand Scaup at St Anne s Lagoon. Leaving the estuary we continued north to another wetland, this time the freshwater St Anne s Lagoon. There were a couple of new birds here for us, with the most obvious the large numbers of New Zealand Scaup, an endemic duck. Also obvious on the pond were a few regal Black Swans, while Australasian Shoveler and Gray Teal were mixed in with the scaup and scanning the edges of the lagoon produced our final target, a small flock of Cape Barren Geese sheltering under a willow tree. Page 3 of 30

4 All this was just an appetiser though, as we finally arrived in Kaikoura for the main course, a four hour pelagic in what looked to be fantastic conditions, perhaps a little too calm if anything! After a delicious barbecue seafood lunch we made The world s entire population of Hutton s Shearwaters breeds in the mountains behind Kaikoura. our way to the harbour and boarded our boat for a 1pm departure. If you ve ever done a pelagic, you will know the pain of bashing through hours of swell on your way out to where the birds are, all in the hope you will get some distant views of a few grey, brown or black dots. Not here in Kaikoura. Literally within minutes of leaving the harbour we were passing a raft of the very local Hutton s Shearwater, while a Cape Petrel joined the back of the boat. Only a few minutes later we were drifting over the continental shelf, playing host to a melee of Northern Giant-Petrels and Wandering Albatrosses, all fighting over the delicious shark liver used to attract them. Northern Giant-Petrels and Wandering Albatrosses squabbling over shark liver at the back of the boat. The GPs and Wanderers are the staple species at Kaikoura, but within minutes we had been joined by a number of other tubenoses. Several Salvin s Albatrosses arrived, with a few landing on the water, while a couple of Whitecapped Albatrosses also passed by. Westland Petrels were common, with several arriving quickly and hanging around the boat for the rest of the afternoon, while a few Sooty Shearwaters visited as well. We soon had at least half-a-dozen Wandering Albatrosses squabbling for chum at the back of the boat, and they were being joined by more all the time. Most were of the common subspecies gibsoni, but looking at them closely allowed us to pick out a couple of the smaller and less common subspecies, antipodensis. Continually scanning the horizon, it was not long before the first much-anticipated Royal Albatross arrived, a very sharp looking northern bird, its jet black wings and mighty wingspan on show for all to see. Page 4 of 30

5 The majestic northern Royal Albatross (left) with its jet black wings is always a highlight. The more common Westland Petrel (right) can be difficult to separate from a few other birds the black bill tip is a good feature to look for. Our skipper Garry eventually decided that we should move on to another spot, and luckily most of the birds from our first stop followed us along, allowing for some great flight shots. Pulling up to drift at our second location it wasn t long before the chum was back in the water, and our first Buller s Shearwater was scooting past. It didn t hang around for long, but we had good views as another came by later. Another newcomer was a Great-winged Petrel of the local race gouldi, or gray-faced petrel, which passed briefly on a couple of occasions before finally staying long enough for some photos. Before leaving for our final stop an unusual light-gray bird approached the back of the boat, and the shout of Southern Fulmar! went up. This was definitely an unexpected surprise, as these birds usually spend their breeding season foraging close to the Antarctic pack ice. Perhaps this one was on a summer holiday? A Fur Seal pup. We didn t add any new birds for the rest of the trip, although a pod of playful Dusky Dolphins frolicked beside the boat as we moved closer to shore. A couple of rocky stacks held several terns and gulls, as well as a few adorable New Zealand Fur-Seal pups, a good way to end the day. Twenty minutes later we pulled into the harbour, and our spectacular pelagic came to an end after a very entertaining four hours on the water. We returned to Kaikoura for Page 5 of 30

6 dinner, then it was back to Christchurch for the night prior to heading across the mountains tomorrow. The star of the show at Kaikoura, the beautiful Wandering Albatross. Day 3: Sunday, 2 nd November 2011 Christchurch to Franz Josef. There were several Great-crested Grebes on Lake Pearson, which we stopped at on our way up to Arthur s Pass. With a day of unfavourable weather forecast, we turned west and made our way towards the Southern Alps, the mountain range which runs down the spine of New Zealand s south island. Entering the foothills we could see the clouds rolling in, but we were still able to enjoy some of the spectacular views as we steadily climbed. We made our first birding stop at Lake Pearson, finding a Gray Gerygone (Gray Warbler), while out on the lake a couple of Great Crested Grebes cruised around. Page 6 of 30

7 Continuing the climb towards Arthur s Pass, we soon found ourselves deep in the cloud which cloaked the high mountain valleys, and we also experienced the first drops of rain which would strengthen throughout the afternoon. Making a quick stop in the village, it wasn t long before we had found our first Keas, a species of alpine parrot which are particularly curious; they are often found investigating parked cars for any loose items such as windscreen wiper blades, which they will enthusiastically attack with their powerful bills. We continued through the village to the Otira Viaduct, checking a few spots on the way for Blue Duck which we didn t find, although another friendly Kea at the viaduct overlook was a consolation prize. We returned to the village, taking half-an-hour to check the Bealey Chasm for ducks which we dipped on again, although we did get a nice New Zealand Fantail, plus the very cute endemic Rifleman, which resembles a sort of miniature nuthatch. After returning to Arthur s Pass village for lunch we made one last pitch for the ducks, returning to the Otira Viaduct where we scoured the river in heavy rain. While scanning a section of river I glimpsed some movement, but it was something small... a tiny duckling! It was quickly joined by another which had me frantically scrutinizing both sides of the river, before I finally spotted a fine adult Blue Duck, Kea at the Otira Viaduct lookout. shortly followed by its mate. In spite of the heavy rain, we looked on enthralled as the two adults and their five little ducklings worked their way up the fast-flowing river, the bold ducklings taking to the whirls and eddys like professional surfers, unafraid of the rushing torrent. We eventually dragged ourselves away, thoroughly drenched, and returned to the car before making our way down off the mountains and towards the coast. The descent into Westland is spectacular, the moss-laden forests and powerful rivers making for some amazing scenery; unfortunately we weren t privy to most of it as the rain belted down, shrouding the mountains in mist. We did spot a few birds through the rain, with Paradise Shelducks common in the fields, and a few Wekas seen scurrying off the road. We eventually rolled into Franz Josef late in the afternoon, as the rain slowly abated, hoping there was still a chance we might go looking for kiwis that night. Page 7 of 30

8 Unfortunately our hopes the rain might hold off were dashed, as it started pouring again just as dusk was settling. This would usually be criteria for calling off our search for kiwis, but after assuring our guide Ian Cooper that we were keen and willing to try regardless, he agreed to have a shot. We met Ian near Okarito, and right on dark we found ourselves surveying a forest trail, waiting for the local pair of kiwis to emerge from the burrows and start foraging. Honing in on the signal from their radio-transmitters, Ian was able to tell us the birds had left their burrows and were working their way down slope towards us. Unfortunately, the continuing rain and sound of water dripping on the foliage obscured any sound of the kiwis moving through the brush, and while concentrating on tracking the male, it was a surprise when the female crossed the trail quickly, having unknowingly approached to within metres of us. We focussed again on the male, and after hearing him clambering through the undergrowth only a few frustrating feet away from us, it seemed he had given us the slip. Ian was unrelenting though, and managed to track him as he continued moving through the forest, until at last we briefly spotted the male Okarito Brown Kiwi on the edge of our trail. He quickly scurried off into the brush, but we were able to follow him and get another brief glimpse as he foraged near the trail before running off again. It wasn t great views, but it was views nonetheless, and unfortunately as he moved off into thick brush we had to be satisfied with our efforts. It was late and we were wet, but with the help of Ian we d given it our best shot and been as successful as we could have expected in the conditions. Day 4: Monday, 3 rd November 2011 Franz Josef to Queenstown. After a late night we treated ourselves to a sleep-in before heading back to Okarito in light drizzle. In town we saw our only Great Egret for the trip, plus a lone Royal Spoonbill feeding in the shallows. Heading out to the Pakihi Walk we dodged rain showers as we searched for Fernbird, without much luck. We did get a rare moment of clear weather as we got to the lookout over the Okarito Lagoon, and even a moment of sunshine as we arrived back at the start of the walk. Wandering around the car park we picked up our first New Zealand Robin, a male in full song, and a couple of Gray Gerygones bounced around. A Fernbird put in a very quick appearance but didn t stay long enough for us all to get a look. The always friendly New Zealand Robin. Page 8 of 30

9 We decided to move up the road a little, being followed by a family party of Tomtits on the way. These cute little flycatchers will often feed nearby, completely unconcerned at your presence. We caught the sharp tick of a Fernbird, and this time we were much luckier as one popped up in the undergrowth and sat there preening for a few minutes while we got good views. Our attention was soon diverted by the insect like buzz of a Long-tailed Koel, but unfortunately the weather was to beat us to it; we had just started to move into the forest towards its call when the heavens opened. Scampering back to the car, we were sent packing as the rain continued to pour down and we had to get on our way. After lunch in Franz Josef we made our way south along the coast, stopping at Knight s Point during a brief break in the weather. It was a worthwhile stop as we picked up a distant Southern Elephant Seal lounging on the beach, a large male looking like some lethargic oversized slug. A close scan of the rocks along the water s edge also picked up our first views, although distant, of Fiordland Penguin. As was the pattern of the day, we were sent running back to the car as a shower of rain approached, so we got on our way towards Queenstown, climbing up over Haast s Pass in the rain, before making our way alongside Lakes Wanaka and Hawea on our way to Wanaka. Next it was up over the Crown Range in the first really nice weather of the day, before descending down into quaint Arrowtown. We stopped in Arrowtown for dinner before finishing up in Queenstown, our base for the next two nights. A rain shower approaches at Knight s Point. Resting on the point was an enormous Southern Elephant Seal, and we found a Fiordland Penguin on the rocks below. Page 9 of 30

10 Day 5: Tuesday, 4 th November 2011 Mackenzie Basin. My eyebrows were raised early this morning as we gathered to leave from Queenstown, with the tops of the surrounding mountains covered in snow and a light dusting almost down to the edges of Lake Wakatipu. Later in the day, when the snow started pelting down at 2pm, and the outside temperature dropped to 34 F (1 C), I was getting decidedly nervous we would miss our quarry, one of the world s rarest waders, the endemic Black Stilt. Still, this was birding in New Zealand, and sometimes you have to make the best of the conditions you are given. Earlier it had been a crisp and clear morning as we left Queenstown, but heading north for the Mackenzie Basin the weather soon turned nasty, with low cloud and wind picking up. We made a quick stop beside Lake Dunstan where we saw several coveys of introduced California Quail before continuing up over Lindis Pass where the snow ploughs had been out to clear the roads. Unfortunately the low cloud meant we couldn t admire the amazing scenery the Mackenzie Basin offers, and as we pushed on towards Twizel we encountered our first drops of rain. We made a stop at Poaka Wetlands near Twizel, finding large numbers of New Zealand Scaup, a few Purple Swamphens (Pukekos) and several Paradise Shelducks. There was also a couple of Pied Stilts, but none of their rarer cousins, while a couple of shallow dams nearby produced some Double-banded Plovers. Moving on to Lake Benmore we spotted a few Black-fronted Terns coursing the canals, and picked up our first pure Pacific Black Ducks of the trip (they are usually hybrids with the ever-present Mallards). Down at the river delta we found more waterbirds, with Australasian Shovelers and Great Cormorants new for the list. Taking a break for lunch, we were sent running for cover as the wind and rain picked up again, and with the bad weather very much set in, our options were running out. We decided to try one more spot, but it was then that the snow arrived, the temperature plummeted, and with visibility reduced to nearly zero, we had to turn around and admit defeat. We grudgingly set sail for Queenstown, prepared to admit defeat to the weather, although I had one last ace up my sleeve, recalling a small wetland on the way home that I had visited once before. The cold windy conditions weren t great for surveying the distant pond, but there were birds there. A couple of Pied Stilts got the heart pumping and a few Black-fronted Terns were hovering overhead. I decided to break out the scope, and we were rewarded for our persistence, with the unmistakable lanky profile of a pure adult Black Stilt foraging on the other side of the pond. With a huge load off my shoulders, it was with much relief that we finally turned home for the day, enjoying a beer and a wine with dinner in celebration. Page 10 of 30

11 Day 6: Wednesday, 5 th November 2011 Milford Sound. The weather nearly beat us yesterday, but today it whacked us over the head. Instead of the light dusting of snow from yesterday, we woke this morning to half-an-inch of snow on the ground in Queenstown, with the prospect of having to ascend one of New Zealand s highest road passes on our way to Milford Sound. We left Queenstown early and got on our way, hitting the first hitch at Te Anau, where we were advised that chains were a requirement to get over to Milford Sound. We hired some at a local store then pressed on, apprehensive as to what we might encounter at the top, and hoping against hope that The scenic Eglinton Valley dusted with snow. we still might be able to find South Island (Rock) Wren. Entering the Eglinton Valley, the scenes were unbelievable; as we looked out at the thick covering of snow blanketing the bottom of the valley, I had to remind myself that this was a Tropical Birding tour. The forest clad hills were beautiful, with the dense trees cloaked in snow like a scene from a northern hemisphere Christmas movie, rather than late spring in the south. Luckily the snow ploughs had kept the pass open, but because we had been making slow time we had to continue through the Homer Tunnel to Milford Sound, arriving in time to board the boat for our cruise. Fiordland Penguins at a colony in Milford Sound. Milford Sound is quite the natural wonder, with many different personalities. Today with low cloud and rain, the waterfalls which pour off the sheer cliffs were thundering away, and there was snow almost down to the water in places, making for a spectacular afternoon. Birdwise, the highlight of any trip on the sound is the search for Fiordland Penguin, with several breeding colonies of this smashing bird scattered around the sound. We spotted a couple of distant birds swimming away from the boat before we turned around at the mouth of the sound, and pulled at one of the colonies to watch three Fiordland Penguins hopping around on the rocks. Page 11 of 30

12 Usually found in much deeper water, Black Coral is so-called because although white when alive, its skeleton is black. Continuing back into the sound we spotted a couple more penguins on the shore, before stopping at the Milford Deep Underwater Observatory. This observatory allows visitors to descend below the water s surface and experience first-hand the phenomenon of deep water emergence. Because the sound is so well protected from the open ocean, the surface conditions are always very calm, meaning the huge amounts of fresh water pouring off the cliffs above sit on top of the water rather than mixing in. This prevents normal amounts of light penetrating the surface, and as a result, marine life which is usually found in much deeper water is able to survive here in conditions similar to those in deeper water. The underwater observatory allowed us to see some of that life at close range, including several different species of fish, starfish, and the strangely named Black Coral. Leaving the observatory we were accompanied by a trio of Fiordland Penguins, porpoising alongside the boat for a minute or so before we pulled away and returned to the wharf. From here it was back to the car and on our way up to the Homer Tunnel. This time we stopped at the top to check out the Alpine Walk in the vain hope we might find a South Island Wren, but with two feet of snow blanketing the landscape it was pretty clear that we were out of luck. Some forlorn squeaking was unsurprisingly unsuccessful, although we did watch our vehicle being attacked by a couple of Keas who didn t seem to mind the weather at all. Leaving the tunnel behind we made one stop for Australasian Pipit on the way back to Te Anau, defeated by the snow on our search for the wren, but successful in our quest for the penguin. The Keas didn t seem to be bothered by the snow at Homer Tunnel. I wish the South Island Wrens were the same! Page 12 of 30

13 Day 7: Thursday, 6 th November 2011 Te Anau to Stewart Island. Gray Gerygones are quite common throughout New Zealand. The mass of cold air which kept us in our winter woollies for the last couple of days had mostly passed us by this morning, and although things were still cool, the skies were clearer. We did some birding on the edge of Lake Te Anau, scoring a few Welcome Swallows, more Gray Gerygones and a nesting Chaffinch, but nothing else of note. We then headed south to the coast where unfortunately the wind had picked up significantly. We tried looking for Hector s Dolphins in the surf, but with the wind roughing up the water, there was little chance of picking up their tiny fins. The rain kicked in again as we stopped on a beach near Tuatapere, but through the drizzle we managed to find a single Arctic Tern sheltering among nearly a hundred White-fronted Terns. With lunch approaching we pressed on to Invercargill for a break, before continuing on to Bluff where we waited for our ferry to depart for Stewart Island. A Bronze Shag fishing just off the wharf kept us entertained, then we boarded the ferry for what turned out to be a rough trip across the Foveaux Strait. Sitting on the outside deck hoping to pick up a few seabirds was productive, as we soon had a couple of White-capped Albatross and a Cape Petrel following the boat. As we got further into the strait we were surrounded by swirling flocks of Sooty Shearwaters, while Common Diving-Petrels were sent scattering from the front of the boat. We passed a couple of small flocks of Fairy Prions which eventually gave good views, but everything else remained distant. The final highlight was a mammal, as we briefly spotted a Southern Right Whale which surfaced beside the ferry. Cape Petrels followed us all the way to Stewart Island this photo is from Kaikoura. Page 13 of 30

14 After arriving in Half Moon Bay we got confirmation our trip to search for kiwis would be going ahead, so quickly ducked off to grab some fish and chips for dinner, before boarding the boat that would take us across to Ocean Beach. While waiting to leave the dock we spotted a couple of Little Penguins coming ashore right beside the boat, and we saw several more as we took the 40-minute trip across Paterson Inlet. As darkness settled we set off on the trek across to Ocean Beach, with a couple of stops to search for kiwis on the way. We didn t have any luck, but within minutes of arriving on the beach our guide Greg had spotted one. As is often the case here, we were able to approach to within metres of a fantastic Southern Brown Kiwi, foraging among the seaweed and other debris along the high tide line. Judging by the small size and curved bill, we surmised it was probably a young female bird, and although she gave us good views she was a little skittish at times. After getting our fill, we left her behind and wandered up the beach to try and find another, but after a couple of laps had no more success. We eventually made our way back to the boat via a track through the bush, and on our way managed to spot two more kiwis, although they only gave brief views. Very satisfied with our efforts though, we returned to Half Moon Bay, arriving home after midnight and happily heading to bed. Day 8: Friday, 7 th November 2011 Stewart Island Pelagic. Shining Bronze-Cuckoos are a common summer migrant to New Zealand. We enjoyed a sleep-in this morning after our late night kiwi hunting expedition, and with the main event being an afternoon pelagic, we went for a short walk around town to see what we could pick up. One of the most obvious inhabitants of Half Moon Bay are the noisy New Zealand Kakas, often seen flying over town gurgling and hooting on their way. A repeated ascending whistle alerted us to a Shining Bronze-Cuckoo, and it quickly came in to a tape giving us nice views of this smart bird. We also picked up a pair of Red-fronted Parakeets, or kakriki, after hearing their distinctive chattering call. After a short break for lunch we were back to the wharf, boarding our pelagic boat and making our way across Paterson Inlet to pick up a few more people. We hadn t even passed the heads on our way out before we got our first new bird, with a Black-browed Albatross in amongst the White-capped Albatross, while our second Arctic Tern for the trip passed by quickly. We ducked into another inlet to search for penguins, and although we didn t find Page 14 of 30

15 any, we did have a pair of very inquisitive New Zealand Sea-Lions cavorting in the water beside the boat. This Black-browed Albatross was our first for the trip, and followed us for about thirty minutes as we moved down the coast. Moving back out to the open seas, we turned south for Wreck Reef where we would concentrate our efforts several albatrosses followed us, as well as a Cape Petrel. Nearing the reef a strange white shape floating on the water piqued our interest, and we were surprised as we drew closer to find that it was actually a dead Humpback Whale floating on the surface. There were several giant-petrels in attendance, making the most of the enormous buffet on offer. After arriving at Wreck Reef, we started chumming, with some fish frames being the soup du jour. It soon attracted large numbers of giant-petrels, mostly Northern, but we did pick out at least one Southern Giant-Petrel, having to look closely to pick up the pale green bill tip. Large numbers of albatross joined in as well, including a single Black-browed Albatross with a pale iris, making it subspecies impavida. Soon a pair of enormous Royal Albatrosses arrived, both of the southern race epomophora, which has the largest wingspan of any flying bird. The most common bird was Sooty Shearwater with literally hundreds to sort through, but our efforts were eventually rewarded when we picked out a Broad-billed Prion which whizzed by briefly. Page 15 of 30

16 Leaving Wreck Reef we started the trip back to Half Moon Bay, stopping some rock stacks at the entrance to the bay, and picking up a last couple of birds. A well-trained Brown Skua flew in and practically took the fish frames from our hand, while a distant small albatross eventually came close enough to confirm our sixth species for the trip and fifth for the day, a dapper Buller s Albatross. That was our last new bird for the trip as we finally returned to the bay in the late afternoon. We enjoyed a well earned beer at the South Sea Hotel, before dinner then an early night. This Brown Skua came by for a free feed at the end of our pelagic trip. Our sixth species of albatross for the tour and fifth for the day, Buller s Albatross. Day 9: Saturday, 8 th November 2011 Ulva Island. We were up early and over to Golden Bay to catch the water taxi across to Ulva Island, a sanctuary in the middle of Paterson Inlet that had been a haven for many of the native species ravaged by introduced predators. Unfortunately, earlier in the year rats had established themselves on the island again, requiring the Department of Conservation to launch a campaign to eradicate them and restore the island to its predator-free state. An unfortunate casualty-of-war was the island s population of Wekas, which were decimated by the poisoning regime, an unfortunate and unavoidable consequence. When we arrived on the island there were sadly no Wekas to greet us, and I was curious to get out onto the trails to see if there had been any other noticeable impact. Things did seem quiet initially, although they soon picked up, with a New Zealand Kaka feeding on the ground which allowed close approach. Red-fronted Parakeets were common, and it wasn t long before we found our first New Zealand Robin; the robins here are extremely friendly, and will often follow you closely to take insects disturbed by your feet. It wasn t long before a strident staccato chipping caught our attention, and we were Page 16 of 30

17 soon rewarded with good views of a pair of Yellowhead, passing overhead as part of a small feeding flock. Continuing out to Boulder Beach we heard a Weka calling but couldn t find it, apparently one of the only birds surviving on the island. The wind had picked up by mid-morning making it difficult to spot birds in the canopy, and with time running out it looked like our final target would give us the slip. Unfortunately despite our efforts only I got glimpses of a pair of Yellow-fronted Parakeets as they flushed from a tree, never to be seen again. We had to return to the boat and found a couple of tame New Zealand Pigeons on the way; these birds have a curious habit of sitting quietly beside the trail as you walk past within feet of them, a trait which on many other birds would have meant certain extinction. Perhaps they don t taste very good? We also picked up a tiny Rifleman inspecting a nest-site after a tip-off from local guide Matt Jones, but unfortunately we had to leave without the parakeets, disappointed to miss them on our last attempt. Back on Stewart Island we packed our gear and hurried off to the wharf, finding a small party of Bar-tailed Godwits on the beach, along with New Zealand Pigeons can be very tame, and will often sit quietly beside the trail as you walk past. both South Island and Variable Oystercatchers. Our return trip to Bluff was another interesting one, although the only birds added were a couple of distant White-chinned Petrels following a trawler into Half Moon Bay. Otherwise we saw most of the same species we had seen on the way out. From Bluff it was back to Invercargill, and with a very long day ahead, we had an early dinner before getting to bed. Day 10: Sunday, 9 th November 2011 Auckland to Warkworth. After a very early morning, and being shuffled around a few flights, we found ourselves in a wet and overcast Auckland around 11am. Hitting the road we got straight into the birding, heading north-west to Muriwai where we visited the well-known Australasian Gannet colony. They might be a common bird, but there is something about getting close to these majestic seabirds I find engrossing. Standing on the cliffs above their nests we were able to watch the birds soaring on the breeze, incubating their eggs, with a few even brooding some Page 17 of 30

18 of the first fluffy youngsters to hatch for the year. It was amusing to see every nest separated by the precise distance of a thrusting beak s reach, and we also witnessed a few birds run the gauntlet from the outside of the colony to their nest in the middle, being viciously poked and prodded the entire way. The gannets weren t all there was to admire, with a few dainty White-fronted Terns nesting on the cliff faces as well, their ghostly forms bouncing around on the updrafts. Muriwai is maybe one of the best places in the world to photograph Australasian Gannet. We left Muriwai and continued up the coast to check another wetland, but didn t turn up much except New Zealand Fantails, Sacred Kingfishers and two new ones for the list, Little Black Cormorant and Caspian Tern. We then moved across to the east coast of the north island, visiting Pakiri Beach. Here we saw our first Ring-necked Pheasants, while at the beach itself we soon had our first Red-chested (New Zealand) Dotterels, including a couple of pairs with fluffy little chicks. Scanning out to sea produced a few Fluttering Shearwaters riding the breeze, while more Caspian Terns were resting on the sandbanks nearby. Scanning the sandbandks more closely we eventually picked up one of New Zealand s rarest native birds, a pair of dainty Fairy Terns. With only a handful of breeding pairs left, we were probably watching a fair percentage of the national population. The terns would be our last new bird for the day, as we rolled into Warkworth, our stop for the night, and packed for our expedition tomorrow. Page 18 of 30

19 Day 11: Monday, 10 th November 2011 Tiritiri Matangi. Our first appointment for the morning was at Gulf Harbour, to board our ferry for Tiritiri Matangi, another predator-free island sanctuary where we would be spending the night. It is a fantastic place to go birding, and visiting often makes me wonder if the abundance of birdlife is a true reflection of a time past, or an exaggeration because of the protection offered. Either way, it is a great birding experience. This Takahe was our second for the day, found wandering around the bunkhouse on Tiritiri. While waiting for the ferry we spotted a Pacific Reef-Heron creeping stealthily along the breakwall, but the ferry trip itself was fairly quiet. Within minutes of arriving though the birds were evident, with numbers of boisterous Tuis chasing each other around the nearby flax plants. We started the hike up to the lighthouse, and the second bird we saw was a Takahe, wandering down the path; it was the famous Greg, who had recently been displaced from his usual hang-out near the picnic area. We unloaded our bags at the bunkhouse, then after a break for lunch set out to explore the island. We soon had our first Whiteheads, a New Zealand endemic and one of the most common birds on the island, followed by Saddleback, another endemic and quite a nice one. It seems on Tiritiri that you are rarely out of earshot of these noisy little guys. Moving into the forest we staked out a feeder, amused by the belligerent New Zealand Bellbirds while we waited for the very cute Stitchbirds to show, finally being rewarded with a couple of nice males. A male Stitchbird in full voice. We managed to pick up several coveys of Brown Quail foraging along the edges of the track, an introduced species from Australia, while feeding quietly in the trees beside the trail we also came across a few New Zealand Pigeons. Red-fronted Parakeets were common, and we also got the briefest glimpse of a Fernbird close to the trail. We next scored another sought after endemic, with a Brown Teal spotted on one of the small ponds scattered around the island. Moving to the eastern side of the island we found a spot with a view out over the Hauraki Gulf, and with the scope were able to pick up Flesh-footed, Fluttering and Buller s Shearwaters. Page 19 of 30

20 It had been a successful afternoon, and we had done pretty well, so after taking a break for dinner we waited for darkness to settle before moving out on our kiwi hunt. Unfortunately the wind had picked up which would make finding the birds difficult; it would be impossible to hear them walking through the undergrowth. Still, you ve got to be in it to win it, so we hit the trails, straining our ears in vain to hear some snapping twigs above the din of foliage swaying back and forth in the wind. We had some luck when we heard a kiwi calling loudly further up the track, so quickly ran up to where we d heard it and waited. A dark shape emerged from the brush and onto the trail, and after quickly getting the torch on it, we confirmed a cracking Little Spotted Kiwi, which quickly ducked off into the scrub. As we waited quietly on the road the bird came out two more times, but each time it scurried back into the brush once it realised we were nearby. Still, we were satisfied with the views we d had, and returned to the bunkhouse happy after a successful day. Day 12: Tuesday, 11 th November 2011 Tiritiri Matangi to Miranda. With only one target bird left, we were up at daybreak to try for it. We wandered down one of the forest trails, straining our ears to try and hear the telltale call through the clamour of New Zealand Bellbirds which dominated the dawn chorus. Suddenly, there it was. It has to be one of my favourite bird calls in the world, and when you hear the haunting song of the Kokako, sounding like some kind of whimsical wind chime, it is easy to see why. We tracked the bird down to a snag poking up through the canopy, but frustratingly couldn t get a good view. It then suddenly dropped down and clambered through the canopy like some sort of feathered squirrel (they are poor fliers), before being joined by its mate. We were then treated to extended views of this stunning pair of birds feeding on leaves, including what looked to be courtship behaviour when one of the birds gently fed the other. After watching the Kokakos for a good thirty minutes we left elated, returning to the bunkhouse for breakfast. We next set out to explore the eastern side of the island a little more, tracking down another pair of Brown Teal, but nothing else we hadn t already seen. Red-crowned Parakeets were everywhere, and we did briefly spot another Kokako ducking off the trail. While staking out a pond unsuccessfully for Spotless Red-fronted Parakeets seemed to be Crake we found another pair of Brown Teal, this everywhere on Tiritiri time with a brood of ducklings in tow. A Fernbird also paid a quick visit and was typically shy although we did get reasonable views. After taking a break for lunch we started the walk down to the wharf to catch the ferry home. The only new bird we added was a tiny little Rifleman, but otherwise the heat of the afternoon kept the birds fairly quiet. Page 20 of 30

21 One of New Zealand s best endemics, and contender for bird of the trip, Kokako. The ferry arrived and returned us to Gulf Harbour, where we loaded up the car and got on our way south towards Miranda. After stopping in Kaiaua for dinner, we went to the shorebird roost at Miranda to catch the high tide, and weren t disappointed. One surprise was a Marsh Sandpiper, a rare bird in New Zealand that was hanging around with the hundreds of Pied Stilts. On the shallow ponds behind the bay we also spotted a couple of Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, while on another grassy section we spotted a few Pacific Golden- Plovers among a larger group of Masked Lapwings. The mudflats on the bay held thousands of waders, with Bar-tailed Godwits the most common, along with Red Knots and a few each of Red-chested Dotterel and Wrybill. Large numbers of South Island Oystercatchers were also resting on the exposed sand banks at the edge of the mudflats, while a couple of Gullbilled Terns coursed overhead. We spent the last few minutes of light squeezing out all the waders we could, before returning to the car and moving inland to the foothills of the Hunua Range. After a few anxious minutes we finally heard the gentle falsetto call of a Morepork, although tracking one down was a different story. We finally had one calling from a thicket right beside us, and after confounding us for five minutes we eventually got good looks at the bird as it continued to call while sitting in the spotlight. Happy with our efforts for the day, we headed for home and a welcome sleep. Page 21 of 30

22 Day 13: Wednesday, 12 th November 2011 Miranda to Auckland. We saw the endemic Red-chested (New Zealand) Dotterel in a few locations. We spent the morning in the Miranda area wader-watching again, impressed at the large numbers of waders that were gathering on the rising tide. Numbers were similar to yesterday, with Bar-tailed Godwits again dominating the roost, and we also picked up a couple more Wrybill and Red-chested Dotterels that were fairly close by. The Pacific Golden-Plovers seemed to have moved on, although we did get better views of Sharp-tailed Sandpiper than we d had yesterday. With clouds and rain approaching we moved west, taking a detour through the Hunua Ranges again where we were hoping we might luck on a New Zealand Falcon. The bad weather had confounded our efforts to see this bird on the South Island, and although only a couple of pairs live in the area it was worth a try. Unsurprisingly we dipped on the falcon but did spot a few other birds including the ubiquitous Swamp Harrier and a few New Zealand Pigeons. Leaving the ranges we stopped in Pokeno for lunch before moving on to the Whangamarino Wetlands. The rain had set in good and proper by now and conditions were less than suitable for scanning the wetlands, although we did pick up a few Pacific Black Ducks and Australasian Shovelers, but unfortunately no bitterns. With the rain picking up we decided to call it quits for the day, and made our way back to Auckland for an early knock-off. We only had half-a-day to go, and still a couple of birds to pick up. Day 14: Thursday, 13 th November 2011 Waipu and Mangawhai. With only a few hours left to bird we were on our way north towards Waipu, arriving around mid-morning, and heading out to a nearby dam where we were hoping to connect with some grebes. At first glance we were out of luck, with only Paradise Shelducks and Pacific Black Ducks swimming about. Right down the far end though, a tiny shape bobbed to the surface, and looking through the scope revealed an Australasian Grebe. It was soon joined by its mate, before another pair of grebes appeared, swimming out from the vegetation on the edge. These were different though, and were our final endemic for the trip, New Zealand Grebe. Of course being our last day, the weather was beautiful and sunny, so we enjoyed a spell watching these gorgeous little birds swimming around the pond, a rare opportunity to see both species close together. Page 22 of 30

23 There is only a very small population of Fairy Terns in New Zealand. It is one of the rarest breeding birds in the country. Driving back to Waipu, we went through to the estuary where there were quite a few waders loafing on a sandbar near the river mouth. Sorting through them with the scope we picked up Ruddy Turnstone, plus a few more Red Knots and Bar-tailed Godwits. While watching the waders a tiny tern came by and landed on the sandbank, giving us great views of another Fairy Tern, much better views than we d had at Pakiri Beach. We also spotted another Redchested Dotterel feeding along the water s edge to round out our day list. Continuing south to Mangawhai we climbed the lookout at the heads, but didn t find any birds of note. Out in the calm Hauraki Gulf we did see a few whales blowing in the distance, but they were too far away to identify. After soaking up the magnificent view, and with no more birds to find, we finally called an end to the trip, and after lunch in Mangawhai, returned to Auckland for our farewells and flights home. On immediate reflection it had been a frustrating trip in many ways. The nasty weather on the south island had definitely cost us birds, most obviously the South Island Wren, and some of the days on the trip which can be amazing, such as the trip to the Mackenzie Basin, were marred by snow, wind and rain. Still, after a couple of days to think about things, I wondered if perhaps we hadn t done even better than could be expected in the conditions. After all, there were many highlights for the trip, and we did get great views of most of the birds we saw. Finding all three species of kiwi we searched for was a highlight, and our seabird list was respectable, with six species and nine taxa of albatross, all seen well on a couple of great pelagic trips. Our two days on Tiritiri were memorable, if for no other reason than the absolutely stunning views of Kokako, one of New Zealand s most wanted endemics. And to top things off we saw one of the country s Salvin s Albatross off Stewart Island, one of six species and nine taxa of albatross seen on the trip. Page 23 of 30

24 quintessential birds, the gorgeous Blue Duck, with five cute ducklings in tow, working their way through the fast flowing rivers of the Southern Alps, one of New Zealand s great birding experiences. It s hard to be disappointed with that. One of my favourite photos from the trip, a stunning White-capped Albatross. BIRD LIST This list includes all the bird species that were recorded on this tour. Taxonomy and nomenclature closely follow the latest Clements updates. Parentheses denote an alternate name used by some checklists. Where several distinctive taxa of the same species were seen (possible future splits), I have included them below the currently recognised full species. Total: 129 species, including two seen only by the leader (L), and one heard only (H). KIWIS: Apterygidae 1. Southern Brown Kiwi Apteryx australis 2. Okarito Brown Kiwi Apteryx rowi 3. Little Spotted Kiwi Apteryx owenii DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS: Anatidae 4. Canada Goose Branta canadiensis 5. Cape Barren Goose Cereopsis novaehollandiae Page 24 of 30

25 6. Black Swan Cygnus atratus 7. Paradise Shelduck Tadorna variegata 8. Blue Duck Hymenolaimus malacorhyncos 9. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 10. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa 11. Australian Shoveler Anas rhynchotis 12. Gray Teal Anas gracilis 13. Brown Teal Anas chlorotis 14. New Zealand Scaup Aythya novaeseelandiae PHEASANTS, GROUSE AND ALLIES: Phasianidae 15. Ring-necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 16. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus 17. California Quail Callipepla californica 18. Brown Quail Coturnix ypsilophorus 19. Wild Turkey Meleagris gallopavo GREBES: Podicipedidae 20. Australasian Grebe Tachybaptus novaehollandiae 21. New Zealand Grebe Poliocephalus rufopectus 22. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus PENGUINS: Spheniscidae 23. Yellow-eyed Penguin Megadyptes antipodes 24. Little Penguin Eudyptula minor 25. Fiordland Penguin Eudyptes pachyrhynchus ALBATROSSES: Diomedeidae 26. Buller s Albatross Thalassarche bulleri 27. White-capped Albatross Thalassarche cauta 28. Salvin s Albatross Thalassarche salvini 29. Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris melanophris Campbell Albatross Thalassarche melanophris impavida 30. Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora Southern Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora epomophora Northern Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora sanfordi 31. Wandering Albatross Diomedea exulans Gibson s Albatross Diomedea exulans gibsoni New Zealand Albatross Diomedea exulans antipodensis SHEARWATERS AND PETRELS: Procellariidae 32. Southern Giant-Petrel Macronectes giganteus 33. Northern Giant-Petrel Macronectes halli 34. Southern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialoides 35. Cape Petrel Daption capense 36. Great-winged Petrel Pterodroma macroptera Page 25 of 30