NEW ZEALAND TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 NEW ZEALAND 24 OCTOBER 15 NOVEMBER 2009 TOUR REPORT LEADERS: CHRIS GASKIN and GUY DUTSON The 2009 Birdquest tour to New Zealand will best be remembered for fantastic views of kiwis, seabirds and the endemic forest birds. Most of New Zealand has intensive agriculture and much of the native forest has little value for birds unless introduced predators are actively controlled. However the predator-free forests and islands abound with confiding birds, which have evolved without fear of people. We zigzagged across the whole country, visiting a range of these reserves, islands and mountain ranges, and indulging in a series of superb boat trips. Our tour took us to most of the scenic highlights of this stunning country, allowing us to view Blue Ducks on the slopes of a volcano, albatrosses in front of snowy mountains, Tomtits around a glacier, Black Stilts in front of Mount Cook and Fiordland Crested Penguins in the awesome Milford Sound. Overall, we saw 146 species (plus another three heard only), of which 39 are globally threatened. Favourites included the Rock Wrens bouncing around like pittas in perfect alpine scenery, and prolonged views of kiwis, which must be amongst the most unusual birds in the world. Repeated point-blank encounters with so many albatrosses, penguins, storm-petrels and other seabirds were equally amazing. The tour started with Skylarks, Blackbirds and Goldfinches around Auckland airport. The colonists had brought many British birds with them, and some soon became established. Our first native birds at the nearby sewage ponds included endemics such as Paradise Shelduck and South Island Pied Oystercatcher, Australasian species such as Little Black Cormorant, Black-fronted Dotterel and Welcome Swallow, and familiar species such as Bar-tailed Godwit. Driving north, we stopped at a colony of Australasian Gannets which was a real treat, with thousands of birds sat, displaying, arguing and flying just in front of us, together with hundreds of White-fronted Terns. At our lunch stop, a Fairy Tern gave brief but rather distant views but New Zealand Dotterels strutted around in full breeding plumage. Further on at a small lake, New Zealand Dabchicks swam for a short time before diving and disappearing from sight. At a final stop, a rather unremarkable creek held at least 20 Brown Teal, a threatened duck which has disappeared from almost all of its range. After checking in and dinner, we set off on our first kiwi walk. On a clear still night we walked down a valley, hearing kiwi whistling from the surrounding hills, and then our guides found one and we were treated to a huge female Brown Kiwi which foraged for several minutes in full views. Fantastic! After another brief kiwi encounter, we spot-lit a Morepork owl before retiring after a very long and full first day. 1 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

2 After a leisurely start, we drove for most of the morning, with our first brief stop at Waitangi, site of the historic treaty between Maori and the Crown. Moving on to Limeburners Creek Wetlands, we found a range of waterbirds and had our first encounters with Grey Warblers and their ethereal song. At lunch at Sandspit, some Tuis and a New Zealand Fantail entertained us with their confiding habits. Our boat trip to Tiri Tiri Matangi Island was rough, with some seabirds seen by those prepared to get wet out the back. Tiri Tiri is the most famous island restoration project in New Zealand and perhaps the world. After a complete eradication of all introduced mammals and thirty years of planting (a third of a million) trees, many threatened bird species have been introduced to this small island and the island is now alive with large numbers of native birds. We were greeted by a prehistoric Takahe and then spent the afternoon exploring some trails. A number of nectar feeders hosted flocks of Stitchbirds, Saddlebacks and Bellbirds, sometimes being bossed about by the Tuis which are excluded from the feeders by small entrance holes. After a barbeque at the visitors dormitory, we spent several hours looking for Little Spotted Kiwi. Unfortunately the wind persisted and it proved too difficult to hear any kiwi crashing and snuffling in the undergrowth one was seen but only by a few at the front of the group. On our second day on Tiri Tiri, we walked a forest trail and found our target species, a pair of Kokako, before breakfast. Kokako are the rarest land bird on the island, having been introduced from remnant mainland populations but suffering here from nest-predation by harriers. After breakfast, we explored trails around the lighthouse, ponds and more replanted bush, seeing more of the various new species found yesterday. The density of small birds is remarkable but the island is also of importance for seabirds, and we saw Common Diving-Petrel at a nest burrow. Offshore, a number of large gannet flocks indicated the location of various shearwaters and other seabirds but we tried to ignore those before tomorrow s pelagic trip. The return boat journey was almost a pelagic in itself but we were soon back on the mainland to drop our bags and drive to the Pakiri estuary. Behind a fence erected to protect nesting birds we had good scope views of Fairy Tern and New Zealand Dotterel. After a good dinner, we were finally treated to an early night. The weather remained rough for our pelagic trip in the Hauraki Gulf. A less dedicated bunch would have stayed on land, but we had birds to see! Cruising out in the lee of the mainland we were soon amongst big flocks of Fluttering Shearwaters and increasing numbers of Flesh-footed Shearwaters. After the first few White-faced Storm Petrels started to appear, we sat into the wind and chummed, gaining fantastic views of these stormies alongside Fairy Prions, the occasional Cook s Petrels, a few Buller s Shearwaters and masses of Flesh-footed Shearwaters. Further out we chummed again, attracting even more storm petrels and then suddenly a New Zealand Storm Petrel, the recentlyrediscovered critically-endangered species which has made the Hauraki Gulf a highlight of most birding trips to New Zealand. At least three individuals swept past the back of the boat several times each, making the whole force six to seven experience so worthwhile. We then sheltered in the lee of Hen Island for lunch and returned into the wind, seeing many more of the now familiar seabirds, with many more Common Diving Petrels and a couple of Little Shearwaters. We had another well-earned meal and early night at the Salty Dog. The following day was a long drive from Snells Beach to the Tongariro massif. We started at Winderholm Regional Park where we looked in the mangroves for Buff-banded Rails but only managed Wild Turkeys and California Quail. It was then a long drive across Auckland s clogged roads to Miranda on the Firth of Thames. At New Zealand s wader capital, we scanned through large flocks of Bar-tailed Godwits, finding only Red Knots, and visited the information centre. A final vantage point was much more successful with flocks of White-headed Stilts, a colony of Black-billed Gulls and a small flock of the remarkable Wrybills. Further south, we overlooked the Whangamarina 2 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

3 wetlands and found three Australasian Bitterns stalking the flattened marsh. In the afternoon, we failed to hear any Kokako at Mapara Nature Reserve but we were lucky to see a New Zealand Falcon flying overhead. Further on, in Pureora Forest Park, we saw our first big trees and a suite of forest species including the tiny Rifleman, scope views of Kaka feeding high in the canopy and great views of two recently-returned Long-tailed Cuckoos. Pausing for a confiding New Zealand Pipit, our final stop was beside Lake Taupo at Tokaanu, where we found New Zealand Scaup alongside dabchicks and shags. Finally we drove onwards and upwards to our lodge on the spectacular slopes of the Tongariro plateau. Clear skies, a snow-capped volcano and a small venison medallion a great introduction to New Zealand s mountains. We had a whole day driving a wonderfully scenic circuit of the Tongariro plateau. Our first stop was the start of the summit road, where a Fernbird performed by creeping past us, just a metre away but completely hidden, before giving up and perching in the open. A little further up at the Whakapapnui River, Ed spotted a pair of Blue Ducks which gave prolonged views paddling and ducking in the fast river, followed by four ducklings. Back to the shore of Lake Taupo at Tokaanu, we found a bittern and better views of the scaup. Further on, at the Kaimanawa Forest Park, we had better views of Tomtits. On the Desert Road we found a pair of Double-banded Plover hurrying about the semi-desert tussocks in the lee of the volcano. At Rotokura Ecological Reserve, Whiteheads showed themselves in the forest and a range of waterbirds included some half-decent Grey Ducks. Finally, we drove up to the edge of the Whakapapa ski field to try out the snow, and then walk the Silica Creek trail. This wasn t intended as a birding walk but enabled us to see a variety of sub-alpine habitats and take yet more photographs of the spectacular mountains. Early the next morning we returned to the Rotokura Ecological Reserve, where a truly iridescent Shining Bronze-Cuckoo showed well in the car park. At the lake, Spotless Crakes craked but were not spotted. We then settled down for the long drive to Wellington, and awaited our delayed ferry to the South Island. The three hours cruise was spent seawatching from the stern, seeing a variety of southern seabirds, including three species of albatross, numerous Westland Petrels and a small flock of Hutton s Shearwaters. In the last hour, we cruised down the Marlborough Sounds, watching large flocks of Fluttering Shearwaters and a scatter of Blue Penguins in narrow inlets in the rugged hills. We also had our first views of Dusky and Bottle-nosed Dolphins, and then a quiet evening in Picton where the tourist season hadn t yet started. Our morning cruise up the Queen Charlotte Sound was a great excursion. Our primary aim, the King Shag, was soon found on a favourite crag, close to a colony of the spectacular Spotted Shag. Although we were unused to being on flat-calm waters, this helped us to find a pod of Bottle-nosed Dolphins which just wanted to play with us and offer endless photo opportunities. Landing at the mammal-free Motupare Island, we found our first New Zealand Robin before we had docked and saw a great number of native birds on the summit walk but Saddlebacks only showed to a few. The final stop at Ship Cove was to look for Wekas, which were unmissable on the lawns. Leaving Picton, we stopped at the Lake Grassmere saltworks for lunch, finding a few waders, before arriving in Kaikoura. A quick scan of the coast around the Kaikoura peninsula gave too close views of New Zealand Fur Seals and then we boarded our boat for a famous Kaikoura pelagic. Passing through rafts of Hutton s Shearwaters, we were soon picking up albatrosses and dropped a chum-ball at several spots. We had unbelievably close views of packs of Northern Giant Petrels and Gibson s (Wandering) Albatrosses battling for the front row, Salvin s and White-capped Albatross behind, with the occasional Northern and Southern Royals. Cape Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters and gulls snuck in between, and a couple of White-chinned Petrels were found amongst the many patrolling Westland Petrels. A fantastic trip, matched only by the meal at the White Morph restaurant, the best of a series of very good restaurants and cafes to which we were treated throughout the tour. 3 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

4 Before breakfast we took another pelagic and were again amazed at the proximity of so many large seabirds. Amongst the masses of albatross, we found at least one each of Campbell Island and Blackbrowed Albatrosses and had a couple of Grey-faced Petrels flew past before our skipper expertly found us a tiny Hector s Dolphin. We then drove south towards Christchurch, stopping at St Anne s Lagoon for a variety of waterfowl of a variety of origins, including feral Cape Barren Goose. At the Ashley River Estuary at lunch, we found various waterbirds including hundreds of White-fronted Terns. Turning off into the mountains, we admired the rocks of Castle Hill and stopped at Lake Pearson where David spotted a pair of Great (or Australasian) Crested Grebes. At brief pauses along the Waimakariri River we saw a couple of Black-fronted Terns, before checking into the Bealey Hotel, home to perhaps the last moa. After dinner we walked a couple of forest trails listening hard for Great Spotted Kiwi, which declined to cooperate in the wind. On a wild weather day, we explored the sheltered aspects of Woolshed Hill in the Hawdon Valley. These beech forests are intensively managed to control mammals as the Orange-fronted Parakeet survives in some nearby river catchments. We saw a Brown Creeper, a couple of Riflemen and had good views of Tomtit and New Zealand Robin. At Arthur s Pass we had hardly mentioned the word lunch when several Keas appeared, perching beside the do not feed the Kea signs and proceeding to eat our cars. In the rainy afternoon, some people looked at Keas and the information centre, while others took a wet walk along the Bealey River track, seeing more Brown Creepers and Riflemen. Various other good birds were seen around the hotel, located between forest and river, and we returned to Arthur s Pass for dinner and another kiwi walk. Again, no kiwis showed, as expected for this species, but we were treated to a fantastic starry sky. After breakfast in Arthur s Pass, we drove over the mountains to Franz Josef. We stopped to see the impressive engineering works which drove a railway, then a road, across to the west coast and its promise of gold. On the west coast, a few Wekas skulked by the road, and a pair of Cape Barren Geese paraded at the Hokitika sewage ponds. Hokitika town offered an endless range of greenstone and paua adornments. A family group of Weka were very confiding at Lake Mapaurika, and each vehicle had brief views of separate pairs of New Zealand Falcons. An (Eastern) Great Egret was seen at Okarito Lagoon, the only region in which it occurs in New Zealand. At Franz Josef, we walked the Rock View trail to see Tomtits and the glacier a truly impressive sight. After an early dinner, we drove to the Okarito Kiwi reserve for a briefing on tactics to see this recently split species. After a quick march into the forest, we assembled in formation to await a kiwi slipping out into a forest gap, which it did as instructed. As we closed in on better views, the rain started and we had to retreat, but happy to have seen this exceedingly rare species. On the outskirts of Franz Josef, we had great views of the Southern Alps, including a flock of New Zealand Pigeons in a field under Aoraki or Mt Cook. Further down the coast, we made a couple of scenic stops at Bruce Bay (dubbed Cairns) and Lake Paringa before walking a forest trail to Munro Beach. This wonderfully wet rainforest supported a few birds, by far the best being a New Zealand Falcon seen by some on the return. At the beach, the only Fiordland Crested penguin seen remained at sea, perhaps spooked by a seal in the surf, but we did see plenty of distant seabirds following a fishing boat. In the afternoon, we learned about Haast Kiwi conservation from a DOC ranger, then returned to another penguin beach. Here we were very successful, seeing a series of Fiordland Crested Penguins on the shore, including one walking just past us. After dinner we listened for Haast Kiwi, hearing a variety of other species and having great views of a Morepork. The next morning s walks were rained-off so we crossed the mountains through the Haast Pass where we walked the Bridle Track and Blue Pools. Along the Bridle Track we saw several Riflemen and found a mixed flock which included several Yellowheads, an increasingly difficult species to see on 4 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

5 the main island but just hanging on at this site. Along the Blue Pools trail we had very good views of Brown Creepers. Over the watershed, the much dryer east slopes were dominated by dry tussock grassland with few birds away from the rivers and lakes. Along the braided Aruhihi River we found Black-fronted Terns and Double-banded Plovers but no Black Stilts. After checking in at Omarama, we found a variety of common waterbirds on Lake Benmore and tried for Baillon s Crake at Otematata but unfortunately the water levels were too high. We had glorious weather for our drive from Omarama up to Mt Cook village at the base of the snowy Southern Alps. We stopped at a number of water storage lakes and river outlets, seeing the common braided river species including excellent views of Black-billed Gulls and Black-fronted Terns. Our destination was the Tasman River Delta which is the central site for conservation of our target bird, the Black Stilt. We found several Black Stilts, including pure all-black adults, and a bonus flock of Wrybills, all feeding at very close range. The scenery of this wide braided river valley surrounded by massive mountains was breathtaking. At the head of the valley, we walked the Lake Mueller Glacier trail, finding some icebergs but no Rock Wrens. The afternoon was spent driving to Harington Point at the end of the Otago Peninsula where we made two brief visits to the nearby Taiaroa Head for our first views of Northern Royal Albatrosses and Blue Penguins at their nesting grounds. Our whole day on the Otago Peninsula started with an exploration of some of the intertidal inlets where Royal Spoonbills and large flocks of Black Swans fed in the shallow waters. In wind and rain, we spent the rest of the morning at Dunedin museum, taking our only opportunity to see extinct species such as various Moas and Adzebill. We had lunch in the Royal Albatross Centre, watching them sail over the roof, then took a bus back around the inlets to board our boat for a trip around the head. The boat trip was an excellent complement to our previous boat trips and land-based views we saw a colony of Stewart Island Shags, better flight and perched views of Northern Royal Albatross, and a wonderful encounter with bow-riding Hector s Dolphins. We then drove on to Papanui Beach where we walked past several New Zealand Sea Lions and Yellow-eyed Penguins. The penguins performed well, standing, waddling, coming in off the sea and finally following us up the grassy cliff top path. Leaving Otago and Dunedin, we drove all morning to Te Anau. The only significant stop was at Sinclair Wetlands where we saw a variety of waterbirds and had excellent views of a Fernbird. After lunch at Te Anau, we drove up the Eglinton Valley to the Homer Tunnel. At various roadside stops on the way we had brief views of Yellow-crowned Parakeet and superb views of Keas in snowy mountain valleys. At Homer Tunnel, we took the Alpine Walk in the hope of finding the high-altitude Rock Wren. Amongst the boulders, heathy scrub and Mt Cook Lilies (actually giant buttercups), Chris squeaked up a male Rock Wren which performed perfectly, bouncing and wing-flicking on the rocks. Partly because of the scenery and habitat, but mostly because of the charisma of this tiny tailless bird, even bejewelled with tiny droplets of rain on its head, this was as perfect as they come. Having had such good views of Rock Wren, we could relax and spend all of the next day exploring the Eglinton Valley through to Milford Sound. At our first stop, we finally had excellent views of Yellow-crowned Parakeets as well as Tomtits. Along the Lake Gunn Nature Trail we saw more parakeets and also Riflemen and Brown Creepers in luxuriant mossy forest. Lunch was taken at the foot of the majestic Gertrude Valley, then we returned to the Homer Tunnel Alpine Walk. In full sunshine, we re-found our Rock Wren, with its mate, and were entertained by Keas around the cars. Down the other side, we checked a number of rivers and found a Blue Duck, before boarding our boat for a Milford Sound cruise. We were privileged to cruise this most scenic of fjords in perfect cloudless conditions, seeing more Fiordland Crested Penguins under a series of impossibly steep 5 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

6 mountains and waterfalls. On the return journey, we found another Blue Duck, but got stuck in the Homer Tunnel and celebrated our release at a local Italian restaurant. On our last day on South Island, we drove from Te Anau to Invercargill. We stopped at Lake Manapouri, seeing some grebes and ducks, looked down on a large Black-billed Gull colony, and spent some time looking for falcons (and mice) in the remote Boreland Pass. Our final stop was at a windy Wekatapu Beach where Ed noticed some Arctic Terns, an uncommon blow-in and Birdquest tour first. At Invercargill we checked in for the short flight to Stewart Island and made the rough crossing in a small plane and a very small plane. Oban township was wet and windy, like its Scottish namesake, but was enlivened by a flock of very confiding Kaka as well as Lesser Redpolls next to the motel. It was too windy to look for kiwis and we just hoped that tomorrow s pelagic would run. A few people explored the township before breakfast, finding a range of forest and garden birds. The pelagic was on but had to remain close to the east coast to shelter from the strong winds. A Shining Bronze-Cuckoo called from near the wharf and we were soon out amongst large numbers of Sooty Shearwaters and White-capped Albatrosses. We sat into the wind at Big Wreck Reef and threw filleted blue cod at the albatrosses. Almost immediately, a Grey-backed Storm Petrel appeared, and then large numbers of albatross built up right around us, including a scatter of Buller s Albatrosses. Several Broad-billed Prions passed, looking quite different from the masses of Fairy Prions. Two Mottled Petrels gave exceptionally close views, even feeding on the fish, and a Southern Fulmar was a bonus bird, following us for some time. Having done better than expected, we headed out of the wind, had lunch with yet more Arctic Terns and Fiordland Crested Penguins, and spent an hour on Ulva Island. Ulva abounded in birds, including great views of Wekas, good views of both parakeet species, reasonable views of Yellowheads and everyone caught up with South Island Saddlebacks. After some casual birding around town and dinner, the weather was calm enough for the longanticipated kiwi excursion. This proved as awesome as we had hoped, with stunning views of two Stewart Island Kiwis on the beach. What better way to end the tour? Our final day was a wet and windy travel day. Various people made various walks around Stewart Island, having more good views of various forest and garden birds. We then flew from Oban to Invercargill where some of the team left us for their sub-antarctic cruise, the others continuing on to Christchurch and Auckland and home. We paused in the rain to reminisce over the tour and choose our favourite birds. Five birds stood out from the others: the Rock Wren, a true birders bird in fantastic scenery, the Stewart Island Kiwi, with such great views of this iconic family, the Tui, the highlight of the forest birds, the combination of Fiordland Crested and Yellow-eyed Penguins, and the combination of albatrosses, notably the Northern Royal Albatross seen so well from several boat trips. The B-list of other favourite birds was long, emphasising the wide variety of superb birds seen well on this tour, covering many species of forest, shore and sea birds. Amongst the mammals, the great views of Hector s Dolphin stood out amongst many sightings of dolphins and seals, and as for the snowy mountains, the Milford Sound was well deserving of its global reputation. We had seen so many wonderful birds and also had a fantastic tour around this spectacular country. 6 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

7 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not seen or heard by either leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). APTERYGIDAE North Island Brown Kiwi Apteryx mantelli: Two seen and about six heard on our first night near Kerikeri. We were lucky to have a perfectly still night and exceptionally lucky to have prolonged views of a female foraging in the open beside a valley swamp. This species has an estimated population size of 35,000 birds but is declining wherever introduced mammals are left uncontrolled and is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International (for more details of this species and all other globally threatened species, see Tokoeka (Stewart Island Kiwi) Apteryx australis: Magical prolonged views of two males on Ocean Beach on Stewart Island. Our views of these birds on the open beach, feeding on sandhoppers in strand-line kelp, were perhaps the highlight of the tour. Recently split from North Island Brown Kiwi, with an estimated 20,000 birds on Stewart Island and another 7000 in Fiordland, this species is slowly declining and classified as Vulnerable. Okarito Kiwi Apteryx rowi: One seen and a pair heard near Okarito. Recently split from Brown Kiwi, this is the rarest of all kiwis with a population of about 350 birds. A high proportion of the individuals are known and radio-tagged, but even seeing a radio-tagged bird a few metres from the road proved quite a challenge thanks to Ian (our guide from Slim s home town) for his leadership in enabling us to see this species. Not recognised by BirdLife International but listed as Critically Endangered by the NZ government. Little Spotted Kiwi Apteryx owenii: Our one night on Titi Tiri Matangi was windy and kiwis were uncooperative only a couple of people saw one on the path and / or heard another one calling. This species used to occur across the main islands but now only occurs on a handful of predator-free islands and fenced reserves to which they have been translocated. The estimated population of 1200 birds is slowly increasing and it is classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. Great Spotted Kiwi Apteryx haastii (H): A distant individual was heard briefly by some of us at Arthur s Pass. Although it has a relatively large population estimated at 22,000 birds along the Southern Alps, most are in areas without predator control and hence declining, and the species is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. PODICIPEDIDAE Australasian Crested Grebe (Great Crested Grebe) Podiceps cristatus: Pairs were seen at Lake Pearson, around Omarama, Te Anau and Lake Manapouri. The Australasian subspecies australis is very similar to European birds but does not moult into a winter plumage. New Zealand Dabchick (New Zealand Grebe) Poliocephalus rufopectus: This smart little grebe was seen at Waro Lake, Ormiston Road, Lake Taupo at Tokaanu and Rotokura Ecological Reserve. Although it appeared to be locally quite common, it is localised and the total population is estimated at less than 2000 birds. It is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Australasian Little Grebe Tachybaptus novaehollandiae: A pair shared a small farm pond on the Ormiston Road with New Zealand Dabchick. Widespread across Australasia but very localised in northern New Zealand. DIOMEDEIDAE Gibson s (Wandering) Albatross Diomedea [exulans] gibsoni: About 20 were seen on both of our Kaikoura pelagics many individuals followed the boat and were seen throughout each 7 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

8 trip. All wandering albatrosses here appeared to be Gibson s but some, especially the immature, could have been the very similar Antipodean Albatross Diomedea [exulans] antipodensis. Additional wandering albatrosses were seen off the Cook Strait ferry and the fishing boat off Munro Beach. As with most albatrosses, this is a very slow-breeding bird suffering significant mortality from long-line fishing and is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Southern Royal Albatross Diomedea [epomophora] epomophora: Two and five off our Kaikoura pelagics, one off Papanui beach and one off Stewart Island. We were treated to exceptional comparative views of Gibson s and both Royals just off the back of the Kaikoura boat. Splitting the Royals seems as tenuous (or as justifiable) as splitting Wandering Albatrosses, and hybrids have been reported from Taiaroa Head. Breeding on New Zealand s sub-antarctic islands, this species is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Northern Royal Albatross Diomedea [epomophora] sanfordi: Two and five off our Kaikoura pelagics and several seen on each visit to Taiaroa Head, where about 20 were seen on the Head and at sea from the boat. Although we had incredibly close views off the boat at Kaikoura, the Taiaroa Head birds gave us better flight views and some distant views of displaying pairs and groups on the land. This species has a population of about 17,000 adult birds and is classified as Endangered. Black-browed Mollymawk (B-b Albatross) Thalassarche [melanophrys] melanophrys: Single immatures seen on both Kaikoura pelagic were identified as this species but one off Stewart Island could have been a Campbell Mollymawk. Despite a population of over a million birds breeding across the sub-antarctic, it is listed as Endangered by BirdLife International as it suffers particularly high mortality from long-line fisheries. Campbell Mollymawk (C Albatross) Thalassarche [melanophrys] impavida: One adult off Kaikoura and two off Stewart Island. One of the best defined of the albatross splits, with adults differing in iris colour, brow marking and underwing pattern. Confined as a breeder to Campbell Island and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. White-capped Mollymawk (White-capped Albatross) Diomedea [cauta] steadi: One off the Cook Strait ferry, only a couple on each Kaikoura pelagic, many tens following the Munro Beach fishing boat, 20 around Taiaroa Head and Papanui Beach and at least 300 off the Stewart Island pelagic. This proposed split from the very similar Australian Shy Albatross nests around southern New Zealand and is classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. Salvin s Mollymawk (Salvin s Albatross) Diomedea [cauta] salvini: Five off the Cook Strait ferry, up to 20 from the Kaikoura pelagic, many tens following the Munro Beach fishing boat, one off Taiaroa Head and only about ten off the Stewart Island pelagic. Another proposed split in the Shy Albatross group, this is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Buller s Mollymawk (Buller s Albatross) Diomedea [bulleri] bulleri: About ten were seen off Stewart Island. As with all albatrosses, we had fantastic views, enabling clear comparisons with the larger and stouter White-capped and Salvin s Mollymawks. A New Zealand endemic, with a potential split of the nearly identical northern and southern forms, classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. PROCELLARIIDAE Flesh-footed Shearwater Puffinus carneipes: Up to 100 seen from Titi Tiri Matangi and the boat crossings, where many were feeding in association with gannets. Very close views of about 250 from the Hauraki Gulf pelagic, where this was the dominant seabird coming in to chum. This bulky shearwater nests in Australia and New Zealand, migrating to the north Pacific. 8 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

9 Buller s Shearwater Puffinus bulleri: Up to 10 seen from Titi Tiri Matangi and the boat crossings, where a few were feeding in association with gannets. Very close views of about 50 from the Hauraki Gulf pelagic. This species nests only on the Poor Knights Islands in the outer Hauraki Gulf, where there are an estimated three million birds. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International based on their tiny breeding range. Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus: One or two seen from Titi Tiri Matangi, boat crossings, the Hauraki Gulf pelagic, Cook Strait, Kaikoura and Munro beach, but then thousands streaming off Taiaroa Head, Papanui Beach and the Stewart Island pelagic. The Kaikoura birds appeared incongruously small alongside the albatrosses and the thousands off Stewart Island were quite a different experience to seeing this species in Europe. About 5 million pairs nest in New Zealand, and similar numbers elsewhere, but it is declining and classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. Fluttering Shearwater Puffinus gavia: About 500 seen from Titi Tiri Matangi and the boat crossings, over 1000 from the Hauraki Gulf pelagic and the Cook Strait ferry, and about 500 from the Marlborough Sounds boat. Large dense flocks of this species were a feature of these northern boat trips. Hutton s Shearwater Puffinus huttoni: About 20 seen off the Cook Strait ferry and thousands seen off each Kaikoura pelagic. Despite its large population of about 300,000 birds, this endemic species is considered Endangered by BirdLife International because breeding is restricted to just two colonies which are still declining because of stoat predation. Little Shearwater Puffinus assimilis: Only brief views of one or two of the Hauraki Gulf subspecies haurakiensis. This form is retained within the narrowly-defined Little Shearwater in recent splits of the Little-Audubon s complex. They usually forage close to the breeding islands of Mokohinau and Hen and Chickens Islands but occur in much smaller numbers and are much less obtrusive than Fluttering Shearwaters. Common Diving Petrel Pelecanoides urinatrix: Two seen nesting on Tiri Tiri, about 50 from the Hauraki Gulf pelagic, one from the Cook Strait ferry and over 100 from the Stewart Island pelagic. Tiny, flying close to the sea and easily overlooked, but clearly a locally abundant species like the evolutionary convergent Little Auk. Westland Petrel (Westland Black Petrel) Procellaria westlandica: About 30 from the Cook Strait ferry, 50 to 100 from the Kaikoura pelagic and about 100 behind the fishing boat off Munro Beach. About 20,000 birds breed only in one area of north-west South Island, suffer mortality from long-lining boats and are classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. (Black or Parkinson s Petrels look almost identical but are rarely seen as far south as Kaikoura.) White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis: Two and three seen from the Kaikoura pelagics, all showing wholly yellow bills at very close range. Although much more common and widespread than the New Zealand endemic black petrels, this is also classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Cape Pigeon (Cape Petrel) Daption capense: Thirty and then 100 off the Kaikoura pelagics, a few off Munro Beach, Taiaroa Head and Papanui Beach, and then about 200 off Stewart Island. An assertive chum-follower, often dodging and picking at scraps scattered by the far larger albatross. Antarctic Fulmar Fulmarus glacialoides: One gave prolonged views off the Stewart Island pelagic. Quite a rarity here and strikingly different from Northern Fulmars. Northern Giant Petrel (Hall s Giant Petrel) Macronectes halli: One in the Hauraki Gulf, ten and thirty off the Kaikoura pelagics, three off Munro Beach, three around Taiaroa Head and Papanui Beach, and then two off Stewart Island. Second only to Gibson s Albatross in the Kaikoura picking order. (None seen at close range were Southern Giant Petrels.) 9 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

10 Fairy Prion Pachyptila turtur: An offshore species seen on our windy pelagics, with over a thousand in the Hauraki Gulf and about 500 off Stewart Island, all interested in the chum but not following the boats. They nest at both ends of New Zealand. Broad-billed Prion Pachyptila vittata: A total of about thirty off Stewart Island including several passing very close to the boat. Moderate numbers nest on predator-free islands around Stewart Island. Cook s Petrel Pterodroma cookii: Good views of about 20 on the Hauraki Gulf pelagic. Most individuals nest on Little Barrier Island in the Hauraki Gulf, with small numbers on another two islands. The species is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International as it has such a small breeding range but predators have been eradicated from all three islands. Mottled Petrel Pterodroma inexpectata: Fantastic views of three off the Stewart Island pelagic. Unusually, both were following the boat and one fed on fish scraps. Nests on small islands around Stewart and South Islands but declining from predation and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International Grey-faced Petrel Pterodroma gouldi: Two close fly-bys off a Kaikoura pelagic and Chris saw the shape of one at Tiri Tiri. This New Zealand endemic is here split from the Great-winged Petrel P. macroptera which breeds in Australian and other southern ocean islands and lacks the pale around the bill-base. HYDROBATIDAE New Zealand Storm Petrel Oceanites maorianus: Good views of three in the Hauraki Gulf. Until 2003, this species was only known from ancient specimens, then Chris and colleagues discovered small numbers in the gulf in summer. Chris thinks that the total population may only be a few hundred and is currently trying to discover their breeding islands. Until then, it remains one of the least-known birds in the world and is a tribute to pioneering pelagics and to looking critically at anything that looks different! Grey-backed Storm Petrel Oceanites nereis: Excellent views of one from the Stewart Island pelagic. This species is rarely seen on the tour but is common further south across the southern oceans. White-faced Storm Petrel Pelagodroma marina: About 300 seen on the Hauraki Gulf pelagic. These behaved wonderfully and gave many of us better views than any other storm petrels that we have seen. SPHENISCIDAE Yellow-eyed Penguin Megadyptes antipodes: A total of 12 seen on Papanui Beach on the Otago Peninsula. We were lucky to see some action, with birds walking up the beach, then one walking right past us. This species has a population of about 5000 birds, is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, and is a good example of a species benefiting from tourism. Blue Penguin (Little Penguin) Eudyptula minor: One off Tiri Tiri, three in the Hauraki Gulf, ten in the Cook Strait, 15 in the Marlborough Sounds, four at night on Taiaroa Head, ten from the Taiaroa Head boat and about 30 off Stewart Island. This diminutive penguin was seen well at sea on a number of occasions but with its small size and messy blue-grey plumage, it was over-shadowed by the larger endemic penguins. Fiordland Crested Penguin Eudyptes pachyrhynchus: A total of 15 on beaches in Fiordland, then eight on the sea on Milford Sound and 30 from our Stewart Island pelagic. Highlights included the bird that waddled past us on Murphy s Beach and the groups porpoising after fish off Stewart Island. This is perhaps the rarest penguin in the world with a population of less than 6000 birds and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. 10 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

11 SULIDAE Australasian Gannet Morus serrator: Small numbers were seen from most boat trips, with impressive flocks of over a thousand off Tiri Titi and over a thousand nesting at Muriwai. This colony is increasing thanks to protection and gave a wonderful view of a gannet city, where each bird is exactly pecking distance from its neighbours. PHALACROCORACIDAE Black Shag (Great Cormorant) Phalacrocorax carbo: Small numbers seen along most coasts and large lakes, maximum six at Tokaanu. This species occurs across the Old World, with the New Zealand subspecies novaehollandiae looking similar to British birds. Pied Shag (Pied Cormorant) Phalacrocorax varius: Small numbers seen in all coastal areas except on the Otago Peninsula where it seems to be replaced by Spotted and Stewart Island Shags. Also common across Australia. Little Black Shag (Little Black Cormorant) Phalacrocorax sulcirostris: Singles seen only on the first day, at Mangere sewage ponds and Waipu estuary. Possibly seen subsequently but easily confused with all-dark juveniles of the next species. Widespread across Australasia. Little Shag (Little Pied Cormorant) Phalacrocorax melanoleucos: Small numbers seen at many freshwater and coastal sites, maximum 20 around the Otago Peninsula inlets. The New Zealand subspecies brevirostris is unusual in having a white-throated adult morph and all-dark juveniles. Widespread across Australasia. King Shag (Rough-faced Shag) Leucocarbo carunculatus: Eight in the Marlborough Sounds included good views of several on a favoured rock. This species has an extremely small geographical range and population size of 650 birds, and is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Stewart Island Shag (Bronze Shag) Leucocarbo chalconotus: Small numbers off Taiaroa Head until we took the boat and saw over a hundred at their nesting colony, and at least ten off Stewart Island. The nests were sculpted mounds similar to flamingo nests. A dimorphic species; the bronze morph looks superficially similar to Great Cormorant and the pied morph looks similar to King Shag. Another rare and restricted-range species, with an estimated population of only birds and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Spotted Shag Stictocarbo punctatus: This gaudy shag was seen very well at cliff colonies in the Marlborough Sound, near Kaikoura, Taiaroa Head, where up to 200 seen, and Stewart Island, and small numbers seen at sea across South Island. Endemic to New Zealand, as with the previous two species, but much commoner and not threatened. ARDEIDAE White-faced Heron Ardea novaehollandiae: Seen most days, especially travel days across agricultural land, maximum about 50 around the Otago Peninsula. This open-country Australasian species colonised New Zealand after the Europeans, and is continuing to expand onto South Pacific islands. White Heron (Eastern Great Egret) Egretta (Ardea) alba: One seen at Okarito, close to the only New Zealand colony. Its current rarity is surprising; perhaps it has not yet recovered from hunting by Maori and Europeans. A number of recent authors have split the Asian and Australasian subspecies modesta as Eastern Great Egret. Reef Egret (Pacific Reef Egret) Egretta sacra: One flying when we boarded the Hauraki Gulf boat, then a pair showing well on a small island in the Marlborough Sounds. Widespread in Asia and the west Pacific but this is its southerly limit, far from any coral reefs. 11 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

12 Australasian Bittern Botaurus poiciloptilus: Three were seen creeping furtively in the open sedge beds of Whangamarina. Another was seen and one heard at Tokaanu and one heard at Sinclair wetlands. Its numbers have crashed in Australia with a population is now estimated at only about a thousand birds because of climate change; birds were estimated in New Zealand in 1980,. It is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Royal Spoonbill Platalea regia: Small groups were seen around Auckland, Miranda and the Otago Peninsula, where about 30 were nesting on bushes on the cliffs of Taiaroa Head. Common in Australia. ANATIDAE Mute Swan Cygnus olor: One seen on the Ashley River. Introduced to make Christchurch feel more like Britain and to feed any visiting royalty. Black Swan Cygnus atratus: Up to 100 seen on many dates, especially intertidal areas such as the Otago Peninsula. Another introduction which fills the ecological niche owed to the New Zealand Swan, known only from subfossil remains. Canada Goose Branta canadensis: Small numbers seen on many days, maximum 30 at St Anne s Lagoon. Introduced to make the countryside look and sound more like Britain. [Feral Goose Anser anser: Small numbers of geese seen looked more like domestic geese than Greylag Geese.] Cape Barren Goose Cereopsis novaehollandiae: Five seen at St Anne s Lagoon and two at Hokitika. Introduced from Australia but often regarded as truly feral in New Zealand. Again, it takes the place of a prehistoric native goose of the same genus. Paradise Shelduck Tadorna variegata: Up to 40 seen most days, especially travel days, including many pairs with small ducklings. A striking sexually dimorphic New Zealand endemic. Blue Duck Hymenolaimus malacorhynchus: A pair with four ducklings below Whakapapa gave great views, and later two singles seen along the Milford Sound road. This is a species of fast rivers, inhabiting a similar niche to Torrent Ducks and Salvadori s Teal of New Guinea. It is very susceptible to predation by stoats and other predators, and has only recently recolonised these rivers in response to intensive predator control. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International based on the latest estimate of 600 pairs in 2004/5, down from 1200 pairs in the 1980s and 1990s. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Common throughout the tour, with up to 50 on some days. Introduced for shooting but it has hybridised with the native Grey Ducks and most showed mixed features. Grey Duck (Pacific Black Duck) Anas superciliosa: The majority of Grey Ducks are hybrids with Mallards; birds showing full Grey Duck features were seen only around Tongariro and Omarama. Listed as threatened in New Zealand, but the species remains common, and untainted by Mallards, across Australasia. Grey Teal Anas gracilis: Up to ten seen on several days around Tongariro, Lake Grassmere, Ashley River and Omarama. Relatively common across Australasia. Brown Teal Anas chlorotis: About 20 at Teal Bay and a few nocturnal grazers on Tiri Tiri. This species has declined catastrophically from predation and remains at very few mainland locations. The population is estimated to be about 1500 individuals, and it is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. Australasian Shoveler Anas rhynchotis: Small numbers seen on several occasions, maximum ten at Mangere sewage ponds. Otherwise found only in Australia, where widespread but not common. 12 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

13 New Zealand Scaup Aythya novaeseelandiae: About 40 at Tokaanu, 100 around Omarama, 50 at Sinclair Wetlands and smaller numbers elsewhere. This New Zealand endemic showed some iridescent colours in good light and a very Greater Scaup-like head profile it looks to have evolved from northern hemisphere vagrants. ACCIPITRIDAE Australasian Harrier (Swamp Harrier) Circus approximans: Up to 25 seen most days. The abundance of this species across such a wide range of habitats was a highlight of many long drives. Much more localised in Australia where other raptors replace it away from wetlands. FALCONIDAE New Zealand Falcon Falco novaeseelandiae: One flew over calling at Mapara, then, on the west coast of South Island, one seen to take a Starling outside the Arthur s Pass hotel, two seen over a distant ridge by one half of the group and two seen over the road by the other half, and one over the forest trail to Munro Beach. This is an elusive species, which has an estimated population of only 5000 birds scattered across a large range of forest and open habitats. ODONTOPHORIDAE [This family is lumped in Phasianidae by Heather & Robertson] California Quail Lophortyx californicus: Seen on four days, mostly beside the road, maximum eight on the first day including good views on a side road at Winderholm Regional Park. Introduced, along with the following four species, for hunting. PHASIANIDAE Brown Quail Synoicus ypsilophorus: Only definitely seen on Tiri Tiri Matangi, where up to 20 very confiding birds seen on this mammal-free island. Introduced from Australia but probably a close relative of the prehistoric New Zealand Quail. Pheasant (Common Pheasant) Phasianus colchicus: One and twos seen and heard across the North Island and between Picton and Kaikoura. MELEAGRIDIDAE [This family is lumped in Phasianidae by Heather & Robertson] Peafowl (Indian Peafowl) Pavo cristatus: A total of five seen in North Island, where considered to be truly feral. Wild Turkey Meleagris gallopavo: Several small flocks seen in North Island, maximum 15 on the first day, and four near Omarama. Several roosting on a fence near the first kiwi offered excellent views but were rightly ignored. RALLIDAE Weka Gallirallus australis: Three at Ship Cove in Marlborough Sound, about five west of Arthur s Pass, five at Lake Mapaurika, five at Milford Sound and three on Ulva Island. Confiding, inquisitive and behaving suspiciously like a food thief. This large flightless rail is a conservation challenge, declining across most of the main islands and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, but it predates seabird eggs when translocated to small islands. Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis (H): One calling at Limeburners Creek Wetlands remained hidden in mangroves, and elsewhere it remained both hidden and silent. A common species from the Philippines to Australia and the Pacific. 13 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

14 Spotless Crake Porzana tabuensis: One seen by a few people on Tiri Tiri where the water levels were too high for craking. Two heard at Rotokura Ecological Reserve where the water was also too high to lure the birds into view. Australasian Swamphen (Pukeko) Porphyrio melanotus: Up to a hundred seen most days in grassy or swampy habitats, especially lush pastures. The abundance of this large attractive species in highly modified landscapes has made it a national icon, at least on tourism products. Formerly lumped in the widespread Purple Swamphen (Purple Gallinule) P. porphyrio. Takahe Notornis mantelli: Still one of the world s rarest birds but it is now easy to see translocated birds on Tiri Tiri Matangi. Here we all saw Greg, who has sadly become too habituated for birders, although it is better to have to push away rare flightless birds than the usual tale of not seeing them at all! The current population of birds is derived from a few found surviving in the mountains near Te Anau. A few remain there but most are on predator-free islands; classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. Australian Coot (Eurasian Coot) Fulica atra: Small numbers seen at Rotokura, Ashley River, Lake Mapaurika and around Lake Benmore. The Australasian subspecies australis is very similar to the Eurasian subspecies. HAEMATOPODIDAE South Island Pied Oystercatcher Haematopus finschi: Small numbers along the coasts of both islands, maximum 50 at Miranda. Larger numbers inland on South Island, where it nests mostly along braided rivers, maximum 100 between Dunedin and Te Anau. This New Zealand endemic is lumped by Heather & Robertson in the Eurasian H. ostralegus but most authorities regard it as a full species. Variable Oystercatcher Haematopus unicolor: This second endemic oystercatcher was seen in most coastal sites, maximum 30 around Auckland. There are three phases: the black phase was most common in the south including Stewart Island, the intermediate and pied phases were more common on the North Island. Not listed as threatened but the world population is only about 4000 birds. RECURVIROSTRIDAE White-headed Stilt (Pied Stilt) Himantopus leucocephalus: Small numbers scattered throughout New Zealand, with a high count of 200 on lagoons at Miranda. White-headed Stilts are also common in Australia and are similar to, and often considered conspecific with, the Eurasian Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus. Black Stilt Himantopus novaezelandiae: About ten seen, including all-black adults, along the Tasman River under the spectacular Aoraki or Mount Cook mountains. Many were immature, with patchy white underparts, and a few appeared to be hybrids with White-headed Stilts. Another of the rarest birds in the world, with a population of only 20 breeding pairs in 2007/8, up from a total population of 23 birds in Although it has increased over the last 20 years of intensive conservation efforts, notably the release of captive-bred birds (93 were released in 2007/8), this species is still threatened by predation and hybridisation, and remains classified as Critically Endangered by BirdLife International. CHARADRIIDAE New Zealand Dotterel Charadrius obscurus: Five at Waipu Estuary and 15 at Pakiri Beach where they were breeding on the fenced-off beach. The North Island subspecies aquilonius has a small population of less than 2000 birds, declining through predation, and is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. The South Island subspecies numbers only about 250 birds breeding on the highest mountains of Stewart Island. 14 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

15 Banded Dotterel (Double-banded Plover) Charadrius bicinctus: This smart plover was first seen on the Desert Road on Tongariro but later found at many beaches and a maximum of 20 on the Tasman River at Aoraki. A New Zealand breeding endemic which migrates to the North Island and Australia. Black-fronted Dotterel Charadrius melanops: Five seen at the Mangere sewage ponds. An Australian species breeding in small numbers in northern New Zealand. Wrybill Anarhynchus frontalis: About 30 at Miranda and another 30 on the Tasman River at Aoraki. A very unusual New Zealand endemic; one of the very few birds with an asymmetrical bill, giving it a strange lop-sided Avocet-like feeding action in mud. It has a population of only about birds, breeding on South Island s braided rivers, wintering on North Island and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Spur-winged Plover (Masked Plover/Lapwing) Vanellus miles: Common across the country in grasslands and mudflats, especially irrigated pastures, with a maximum of 53 counted between Te Anau and Invercargill. A recent historical colonist from Australia which is still colonising south Pacific islands. SCOLOPACIDAE Turnstone (Ruddy Turnstone) Arenaria interpres: Two seen at Waipu estuary and one at Wakatapu beach. One of the most widespread species across the coastal world. Lesser Knot (Red Knot) Calidris canutus: At least one in flight over Mangere sewage ponds, over a hundred at Miranda and two at Ashley River. One of the few Siberian waders to migrate in large numbers this far south. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: One at Miranda. Red-necked Stint (Rufous-n S) Calidris ruficollis: One at Miranda and four at Lake Grassmere. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus (H; NL): One heard by Ed at Miranda. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica: Thousands at Miranda and tens at Mangere, Waipu and Ashley River. The eastern subspecies baueri has recently been shown to undertake the longest single-flight migrations of any bird species, direct from Alaska to New Zealand. STERCORARIIDAE Brown Skua (Subantarctic Skua) Catharacta lonnbergi: Four seen from the Stewart Island pelagic. They nest around Stewart Island, their most northerly breeding location. Heather & Robertson regard this as a subspecies of the Great Skua but most people now separate these species. Pomarine Skua (Pomarine Jaeger) Stercorarius pomarinus: One seen from the Hauraki Gulf pelagic. All of the smaller skuas migrate to southern oceans but are localised and uncommon. LARIDAE Black-backed Gull (Kelp Gull) Larus dominicanus: Common throughout New Zealand, with up to a hundred seen on many days and 500 seen on one day touring South Island. Frequent in agricultural areas, especially irrigated and ploughed land, and occasional birds seen over forest and mountains. Also occurs in Australia, South Africa and South America. Red-billed Gull Larus scopulinus: Common in all coastal areas, maximum a thousand seen daily on Otago Peninsula, and a few seen inland. A New Zealand endemic, previously considered a subspecies of the Silver Gull L. novaehollandiae from Australia but genetic studies show a closer relationship to the Black-billed Gull despite the very similar appearance. Black-billed Gull Larus bulleri: A hundred nesting at Miranda, small numbers inland on South Island, with hundreds at some rivers, hydro-electric outfalls and ploughed fields, and a maximum of a thousand on the drive between Te Anau and Invercargill which included a breeding colony near Manapouri. Despite an estimated population of 100,000 birds, this 15 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

16 New Zealand endemic is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International as the species has been rapidly declining. STERNIDAE [This family is lumped in Laridae by Heather & Robertson] Black-fronted Tern Sterna albostriata: Up to 20 seen on most days that we crossed rivers on South Island. An unusual tern, behaving in some ways like river terns (patrolling rivers), in some ways like marsh terns (hawking over fields) and most migrating to the coasts in winter. Nesting only on South Island, it has a small population of ,000 birds that has shown some rapid population declines and is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: One to five seen on most days at the coast on North Island but only one on South island, at Okarito. A distant outpost for this cosmopolitan species. White-fronted Tern Sterna striata: Small flocks seen on most coastal sites, starting with 200 nesting at the gannet colony, and with a maximum of 500 on the travel day including the Ashley River estuary. Another unusual New Zealand endemic, being intermediate in size and jizz between the Common-type and Sandwich-type terns. Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea: Four or five at Wakatapu beach and about 25 off the Stewart Island pelagic. Although they appeared surprisingly grey, the structure and wing patterns were perfect for this species. A new species for the Birdquest New Zealand tours, perhaps brought in by a weather system that reminded us of home. Fairy Tern Sterna nereis: One seen rather distantly at Pakiri Beach and a pair seen much better at Waipu Estuary. The New Zealand subspecies davisae is one of the country s rarest birds, with breeding pairs in Elsewhere, it is also declining across its range in southern Australia and New Caledonia, and is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. COLUMBIDAE New Zealand Pigeon Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae: One to five seen most days around forest, maximum 20 and 25 on two travel days west of the Southern Alps. A big beautiful pigeon in its own genus but perhaps most similar to the New Caledonian Imperial-Pigeon. This endemic is recovering in numbers where predators and hunting are controlled but is still classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. Rock Pigeon (Rock Dove) Columba livia: A scatter of feral birds seen, maximum a hundred between Omarama and Dunedin. Barbary Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea: Ten seen on the first day near Auckland. This feral population is derived from escaped domesticated variants of the African Collared Dove S. roseogrisea, also called S. risoria. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Five seen on the first day near Auckland. Introduced from south-east Asia and a more elegant and soothing alternative to feral Rock Pigeons. PSITTACIDAE Kaka Nestor meridionalis: Two distant birds off the Hauraki Gulf boat, 12 at Pureora, a couple around Tongariro, at least 11 around town on Stewart Island and five on Ulva Island. South (and Stewart) Island birds are the white-capped subspecies meridionalis. An unusual parrot genus, quite unlike anything in Australia, indeed it has been suggested that Kaka, Kea and Kakapo form another endemic family, distinct from all other parrots. Another species suffering from predation, despite its size, and also competition from introduced species including wasps which feed on honeydew, and classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. 16 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

17 Kea Nestor notabilis: Up to ten at Arthur s Pass, a couple on the west coast, and up to eight on the Milford Sound road. A quality bird, endemic to South island, restricted to mountains, intricately beautiful, charismatic and cheeky, but it doesn t know when to stop and should leave those car door trimmings and sheep alone. Many thousands were killed on the belief that they attacked live sheep and the current population could be less than 5000 birds. Declining from predation and classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Eastern Rosella Platycercus eximius: One to five seen daily in the north half of North Island. Introduced from Australia as an ornamental species. Red-crowned Parakeet Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae: Twenty seen on Tiritiri Matangi, three on Ulva Island and Guy saw others on Stewart Island. Now very rare on North Island, it survives mostly on predator-free islands. Similar-looking species on neighbouring islands are genetically distinct. The current population estimate is 21,000-25,000 birds but classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Yellow-crowned Parakeet Cyanoramphus auriceps: After two elusive birds at Pureora Forest and one seen by Rod and Guy at Arthur s Pass, we had to wait until the Eglinton Valley and Lake Gunn to see at least three pairs, and then another three birds on Ulva Island. Much smaller than the preceding species but surviving better on the mainland. The population is estimated to be less than 20,000 birds and it is classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. CUCULIDAE Shining Cuckoo (Shining Bronze Cuckoo) Chrysococcyx lucidus: Excellent views of one at Rotokura, then one heard at Haast Pass and another seen by the wharf on Stewart Island. This subspecies nest-parasitizes gerygones and migrates to the Solomon Islands and perhaps New Guinea in the winter; not all had returned in time for the tour. Long-tailed Cuckoo (Long-tailed Koel) Eudynamys taitensis: Two seen very well in Pureora Forest, then singles seen by some people below Whakapapa, at Arthur s Pass and Eglinton Valley. This monotypic genus is endemic to New Zealand as a breeding bird, nestparasitizing Whiteheads, Yellowheads and Brown Creepers, and migrating to tiny islands across Polynesia. STRIGIDAE Morepork Ninox novaeseelandiae: Rather distant views of one on our first night, then fantastic views at Haast and about six others heard calling. This endemic is still relatively common across New Zealand but the cause of the extinction of the Laughing Owl remains a mystery. ALCEDINIDAE Kingfisher (Sacred Kingfisher) Halcyon sancta: Common in the north, with 30 seen on the first day, but less common in the south, with only six seen across South Island. Commonly seen in most parkland or forest edge habitats but the south is probably too cold for this species which feeds on large invertebrates and small vertebrates including nestling birds. ACANTHISITTIDAE Rifleman Acanthisitta chloris: Three of the North Island subspecies granti were seen at Pureora Forest. Six of the South Island subspecies chloris were seen around, ten at Haast Pass, six in Eglinton Valley and two on Ulva Island. A fantastically charismatic species which has survived introduced predators far better than the other members of the New Zealand Wren family the Bush Wren and Stephens Island Wrens are both extinct. 17 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

18 Rock Wren (South Island Wren) Xenicus gilviventris: A male showed beautifully on our first visit to Homer Pass, and a pair showed just as well on our second visit. Voted as the best bird of the trip given its pitta-like shape and behaviour, its stunning habitat and its rarity and taxonomic novelty. Unfortunately the name Rock Wren is taken by an American impostor, so we might have to call it South Island Wren. The population of less than 10,000 birds is believed to be declining because of predation and it is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. ALAUDIDAE Skylark (Eurasian Skylark) Alauda arvensis: Up to 30 seen most days in grassland habitats. Introduced along with a wide suite of British birds and, as with some others, seems to be doing better here than at home. HIRUNDINIDAE Welcome Swallow Hirundo neoxena: Widespread in small numbers, with up to 20 seen almost daily. This species is shared with Australia and shows mixed features of the Pacific Swallow H. tahitica and Barn Swallow H. rustica. MOTACILLIDAE New Zealand Pipit (Australasian Pipit) Anthus novaeseelandiae: Rather uncommon, with one seen very well by the road in Pureora forest, two the next day around Tongariro, several around Arthur s Pass and one near Omarama. Best treated as a separate species from the larger darker Australasian Pipit A. australis. PRUNELLIDAE Dunnock Prunella modularis: Up to ten seen on most days south of Tongariro. Introduced along with gardens and shrubberies. TURDIDAE [This family is lumped in Muscicapidae by Heather & Robertson] Blackbird Turdus merula: Seen commonly every day with a maximum count by Johan of 73. Introduced to New Zealand and Australia. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos: Almost as common as Blackbirds, with Johan s maximum count of 41. Perhaps they are doing well because of the rain in contrast, in Australia they are only just hanging on. SYLVIIDAE Fernbird (New Zealand Fernbird) Bowdleria punctata: Poor views of the North Island subspecies vealeae both days at Tiri Tiri but then excellent views of one at Tongariro after an amazing display of twitching grasses and ferns concealed the bird creeping right past our feet. Excellent views of the South Island subspecies punctata at Sinclair Wetlands. This endemic monotypic genus is often placed in the genus Megalurus along with Tawny Grassbirds and their ilk. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Whitehead Mohoua albicilla: Common on Tiri Tiri, where about a hundred were seen on the second day, then about five at the mammal-controlled Mapara and ten around Tongariro. This endemic is confined to the North Island and is clearly very sensitive to mammalian predation: Tiri Tiri is free of all mammals, whereas they are heavily controlled at Mapara and the Tongariro forests. 18 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

19 Yellowhead Mohoua ochrocephala: Five seen in a canopy mixed species flock at Haast Pass and at least two on Ulva Island. This South Island endemic is even more susceptible to mammalian predators, has recently disappeared from many sites and is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. The current population estimate is only birds. Brown Creeper (Pipipi) Finschia novaeseelandiae: At Arthur s Pass, one seen in the Hawdon Valley and about 10 in the Bealey Valley in the rain, six around Haast Pass and 20 on Ulva Island. This South Island endemic seemed to be much commoner on Ulva suggesting that, like the Whitehead, it suffers from mammalian predation on the mainland. ACANTHIZIDAE Grey Warbler (Grey Gerygone) Gerygone igata: Up to ten seen and as many others heard on most days of the tour. Endemic to New Zealand, with closely-related species on the neighbouring Chatham and Norfolk Islands. RHIPIDURIDAE [This family is lumped in the Monarchidae by Heather & Robertson] New Zealand Fantail Rhipidura fuliginosa: Rather less common than the warbler with one or two, maximum ten, seen on most days of the tour. Its fearless behaviour, often seeking out birders in the hope that they will flush out a fly to catch, made it a favourite. Australian birds are usually treated as a separate species, the Grey Fantail R. albiscapa, making the New Zealand Fantail an endemic species (South Pacific subspecies are closer to Australian birds). EOPSALTRIIDAE Tomtit Petroica macrocephala: Six of the white-breasted North Island subspecies toito were seen around Pureora and Tongariro. The yellow-breasted South and Stewart Island subspecies macrocephala was more common, with up to ten most days. Species limits of the robins, along with all other New Zealand birds, are being revised for a 2010 national checklist. New Zealand Robin Petroica australis: Two of the North Island subspecies longipes were seen on Tiri Tiri and another heard on Tongariro. Ten of the South Island subspecies australis were seen on Motupare Island, three around Arthur s Pass, three in the Eglinton Valley. Ten of the Stewart Island subspecies rakiura were seen on Ulva. This endemic was incredibly tame and confiding, and an understandable favourite for colour-ringing projects. ZOSTEROPIDAE Silvereye Zosterops lateralis: Up to thirty seen or heard on most days in forest or scrub. This species colonised New Zealand from Australia in the early nineteenth century and was known to the Maori as the little wanderer. NOTIOMYSTIDAE Stitchbird Notiomystis cincta: Thirty or forty seen on both days on Tiri Tiri Matangi. This species had become extinct everywhere except Little Barrier Island, from where it has now been translocated to other mammal-free islands. The total population is estimated at birds but it may not be viable on many small islands without artificial food supplements and is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. This beautiful bird is currently considered to constitute its own endemic family Notiomystidae but was previously classified as a honeyeater. 19 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

20 MELIPHAGIDAE Bellbird (New Zealand Bellbird) Anthornis melanura: About 50 on both days on Tiri Tiri, heard around Tongariro, 20 seen on Motupare Island, then up to ten seen on most days in the Southern Alps and Stewart Island. One of the most hauntingly beautiful sounds of New Zealand forest. When Captain Cook first discovered New Zealand, he was reported to have re-anchored further offshore when his crew complained of the deafening dawn chorus. Tui Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae: Up to 20 seen most days in forest, with 30 seen on Tiri Tiri and Stewart Islands. This species has both remarkable plumage, notably the wispy tufts on the throat, and calls, with qualities similar to Bellbirds but a much wider repertoire. Both honeyeaters are monotypic genera endemic to New Zealand. EMBERIZIDAE Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella: Small numbers seen most days on all islands, maximum 50 between Kaikoura and Arthur s Pass. This may seem to be an unlikely introduction but it was perhaps much more familiar in historical agricultural Britain. Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus: Two or three seen at Kaikoura. This is a really unexpected introduction, perhaps telling us more about the decline of farmland birds in Britain. FRINGILLIDAE Chaffinch (Common Chaffinch) Fringilla coelebs: Up to 40 seen on most days, especially in the beech forests (which have somewhat similar nuts to the unrelated northern beech trees). Greenfinch (European Greenfinch) Chloris chloris: Up to 30 seen on many days but more localised than the Chaffinch. Goldfinch (European Goldfinch) Carduelis carduelis: Up to 200 seen on many days; locally common on some grassy and weedy drives. Lesser Redpoll Carduelis cabaret: Up to 40 seen from Tongariro south to Stewart Island. These seemed brighter and certainly much tamer than British birds it would be interesting to know the source of the original introductions. PASSERIDAE [This family is lumped in Ploceidae by Heather & Robertson] House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Up to 50 seen on many days despite our efforts to avoid their habitats. STURNIDAE Starling (Common Starling) Sturnus vulgaris: Up to 100 seen on most days. Introduced to make the cows and sheep think of home. Myna (Common Myna) Acridotheres tristis: Fifty seen on the first day, then lower numbers elsewhere on North Island. This species has been introduced across the Pacific Islands to control insect pests. CALLAEIDAE Kokako Callaeas cinerea: A pair seen well on Tiri Tiri and another pair seen by some people. A weird species, jumping along branches like a malkoha or tauraco. These have been translocated here as a safeguard while the mainland populations recover. The population is currently estimated at 800 pairs and it is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. Together with the Saddleback and the extinct Huia, they comprise the endemic Wattlebird family. 20 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

21 Saddleback Philesturnus carunculatus: About 20 of the North Island race rufusater seen each day on Tiri Tiri and one heard on Hen Island from the Hauraki Gulf boat. Two of the southern subspecies carunculatus seen by some on Motupare Island, then two showed much better on Ulva Island. This species was also restricted to a couple of offshore islands until translocated to other mammal-free islands. carunculatus has a distinctive immature plumage and has been split as a separate species by Handbook of the Birds of the World. The population is estimated at 600 rufusater and 1200 carunculatus; the combined species is classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. CRACTICIDAE Australian Magpie Gymnorhina tibicen: Up to 30 seen on most days in open habitats. Introduced from Australia a great vocal improvement on the (unrelated) Eurasian Magpie. MAMMALS Common Brushtail Possum Trichosurus vulpecula: Singles seen in a tree at Haast and on the road at Haast and the Otago Peninsula. Many others in their characteristic flattened posture. Introduced from Australia to establish a fur industry, but now a pest which out-number even sheep. European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus: A scatter seen, mostly on South Island. Introduced as a food source before frozen chickens were invented. Brown Hare Lepus europaeus: Eight seen, mostly on South Island. Introduced as a classier food source. Western House Mouse Mus domesticus: Two seen by some on Tongaririo and one on a rock face at Boreland Pass which was expertly herded into Guy s hands. Introduced by accident from squalid British ships. [Rat sp. Rattus sp: Two on the kiwi beach on Stewart Island were either House Rat (Black Rat) Rattus rattus or Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus.] New Zealand Fur Seal Arctocephalus forsteri: Up to 40 seen around Kaikoura, two on the Fiordland Crested Penguin beaches, up to 15 around Taiaroa Head, 10 in Milford Sound and 20 off the Stewart Island pelagic. Numbers are recovering strongly from massive hunting by Maori and European sealers. Small numbers also occur in Australia. New Zealand Sea Lion (Hooker s Sea Lion) Neophoca hookeri: One eating a fish off Taiaroa Head and three on the Yellow-eyed Penguin beach. They were extirpated from the New Zealand mainland by sealers, surviving only on the Auckland Islands, and have only just started breeding on the Otago coast. Stoat Mustela erminea: Two singles seen by one or two people running across the road. Introduced to control rats and rabbits and now the biggest threat to most native birds, even climbing trees and swimming across to islands. Bryde s Whale Balaenoptera brydei: Singles seen blowing off Tiri Tiri and the Hauraki Gulf pelagic. Hardly tickable views... Common Dolphin (Short-beaked Common Dolphin) Delphinus delphis: Five seen off Tiri Tiri and about 20 on the Hauraki Gulf pelagic Dusky Dolphin Lagenorhynchus obscurus: At least six off the Cook Strait ferry, five from the Marlborough Sounds boat trip and thirty on both days off Kaikoura. This playful species actively seeks boats off Kaikoura and supports one of the largest dolphin-swimming attractions in the world. Common Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops truncates: At least ten off the Cook Strait ferry and 12 from the Marlborough Sounds boat trip. The latter pod was exceptionally confiding, allowing us prolonged unbeatable encounters. 21 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

22 Hector s Dolphin Cephalorhynchus hectori: One in waves off Kaikoura and great views of four off the boat at Taiaroa Head. This threatened New Zealand endemic is one of the smallest cetaceans in the world. White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus: Two seen distantly from the kiwi boat off Stewart Island. Introduced for hunting. FROGS Whistling Frog (Brown Tree Frog) Litoria ewingii: Calling loudly at the Okarito Kiwi and Haast Kiwi sites, and one caught at Haast. Introduced from Australia the native New Zealand frogs are silent and were therefore considered inadequate for the British (princesses). 22 Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

23 Above, the Rock Wren was voted the favourite bird of the tour, found close to the famous Milford Sound. Below, the Weka is a charismatic flightless rail which likes to have its photo taken. Bottom, Tui was the favourite of the native forest birds; Tui and New Zealand Pigeon had beautiful iridescence in the sun Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

24 Birds and mountains! We found Blue Ducks on a fast-flowing river on the slopes of the Tongariro volcanic massif. Later we found Black Stilt and Wrybill under New Zealand s highest mountain, Aoraki or Mt Cook Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

25 Albatrosses were a major feature of the trip, with fantastic views of (top) Northern Royal and White-capped (Shy) Albatross and (above), Gibson s (Wandering) and Campbell (Black-browed) Albatross. Below, we had incredibly close views of most species on our pelagic trips, notably Gibson s (Wandering) Albatross and Northern Giant Petrels off Kaikoura and White-capped (Shy) and Salvin s (Shy) Albatross off Stewart Island Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

26 Penguins were another favourite, with Fiordland Crested Penguins seen at several locations, sometimes at exceptionally close range, and Yellow-eyed Penguins also walking straight up to us. Amongst the many other endemic species, the very rare King Shags were seen in Marlborough Sounds, Blackfronted Terns were common around South Island rivers, and Fernbirds were seen exceptionally well on both North and South Islands Birdquest: New Zealand 2009

27 Photos by Ian Lewis (Rock Wren, Tui, Pigeon, Blue Duck, Wrybill, Royal and Campbell Albatross, Yellow-eyed Penguin, King Shag, Black-fronted Tern and Wrybill) and Guy Dutson (standard lens shots) Birdquest: New Zealand 2009