Spain - The Ebro Delta & Southern Catalonia

Transcription

1 Spain - The Ebro Delta & Southern Catalonia Naturetrek 2010 Outline itinerary Day 1 Day 2/4 Day 5/7 Day 8 Fly Stansted/Reus; transfer Montsant A full programme of birdwatching Excursions from Montsant Els Ports Fly Stansted Audouin's Gull by Peter Dunn Dates Tuesday 15th - Tuesday 22nd June 2010 Cost 1,195 Single room supplement 150 Grading Grade A. Mostly easy walks. Some more moderate ascents. Focus Birds, butterflies & other wildlife Ebro Pools by Peter Dunn Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W:

2 Spain - The Ebro Delta & Southern Catalonia NB. Please note that the itinerary below offers our planned programme of excursions. However, adverse weather & other local considerations can necessitate some re-ordering of the programme during the course of the tour, though this will always be done to maximise best use of the time and weather conditions available. Introduction Situated in the north-east of the Iberian Peninsula, Catalonia is an immensely proud and autonomous region of Spain with its own language and culture and a diverse range of landscapes. The Catalonian Pyrenees dominate the entire north of the region, offering snow-capped peaks, glacial lakes and wooded gorges, but to the south and east, the Mediterranean influence becomes preeminent as towering mountain peaks give way to the lovely beaches, rolling vineyards and wooded slopes of the coast and hinterland. It is this southern area of Catalonia which is the focus of this new tour for which we head into the heart of the beautiful, solitary massifs of southern Catalonia and to the Ebro Delta, a huge arrow-shaped delta which every year plays host to impressive numbers of migratory and breeding birds; indeed, this little-known wetland is on a par with the far more famous Coto Doñana in southern Spain, and France s Camargue. Rising to the east of the Ebro Delta and south of the Pyrenean range, the calcareous massifs of Montsant and els Ports stand close to the sea, forming part of the pre-littoral range. Both massifs are natural parks and at 1,442 metres Mont Caro is the highest peak in s, while the highest in the Montsant range reaches 1,163 metres. Early summer is the best time of year for seeing the area s diverse range of bird, butterfly, mammal and plant species and this 8-day holiday, based at two different family-run rural hotels, one in the Montsant range and the other in s, offers a chance to come into close contact, largely by explorations on foot, with the area s birds and butterflies in particular, and to enjoy some of the wild and impressive landscapes that these littleknown areas offer the keen naturalist. Birds of prey soaring above the peaks are a feature in both massifs and we ll be looking out for eagles in these mountains, including Golden, Short-toed and Bonelli s Eagle. In addition to these, in s we should see Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, as well as Scops Owl. The wooded slopes of both massifs are also home to an array of passerines, amongst them Blue Rock Thrush, Bee-eater, Golden Oriole, Hoopoe, Rock Sparrow, Firecrest, Rock Bunting, Cirl Bunting, Black and Black-eared Wheatear, plus a host of warblers such as Western Bonelli s, Western Orphean, Sardinian, Subalpine, Dartford and Melodious. In s we ll make an evening sortie in search of the crepuscular Red-necked Nightjar, while in Montsant the Red-rumped Swallow is a localised but regular breeding bird. The butterflies are one of the delights of a visit to this region and they are typically Mediterranean. They include Swallowtail and Scarce Swallowtail, Black-eyed, Adonis, Mazarine and Provence Chalkhill Blues, plus fritillaries such as Queen of Spain, Marsh, Marbled, Knapweed and Spotted. With luck we may also encounter the large and impressive Cardinal in the Montsant range and Plain Tiger in the Ebro Delta. The limestone flora is splendid and includes a good variety of orchids, as well as sages, the attractive Rusty Foxglove, and fanpalms. Indeed, s has a high number of plant endemics, and it also boasts an interesting diversity of wild mammals, including Otter and Wild Cat as well as a healthy population of the Spanish Ibex. The Ebro Delta is one of the most important wetlands in the western Mediterranean for both breeding and migratory birds. The delta has year-round lagoons and salt-pans, but in April the whole area floods becoming, in effect, a huge lake and by early summer it teems with birdlife. Six species of tern breed here, including Gull- Naturetrek November 09 1

3 billed, Whiskered and Lesser Crested; furthermore, the Ebro Delta is also home to about 70% of the world s population of Audouin s Gulls. Yellowlegged and Slender-billed Gulls, and heron species including Squacco and Purple, and Little Bittern breed here too. We ll spend a full day at the delta searching among rice paddies, reedbeds, lagoons, saltpans and coastal bays for Glossy Ibis, Cattle and Great White Egrets, Purple Swamphen and Greater Flamingo. Great Reed Warblers and Zitting Cisticolas add songbird interest, while the dune slacks and salt scrub hold small populations of the handsome Collared Pratincole as well as Lesser Short-toed Lark. This Southern Catalonia tour offers a taste of little-known wild corners of the Montsant and s massifs, as well as the Ebro Delta. Plenty of interesting birds, butterflies and other wildlife, enchanting landscapes, delicious local wines, olive groves, 12th century monasteries, pristine rivers and monumental trees are some of the many highlights of a visit to the region! Day 1 Tuesday Montsant After the group has assembled at Reus airport we will drive northwards and in less than half an hour we ll be entering the Prades mountains, following the course of one of its lively little rivers, the River Brugent. We pass abandoned water mills on our way to a small hamlet and to our first butterfly stop in these charming hills. According to the Catalan Butterfly Monitoring Scheme we couldn t have chosen better, as this is the single site in Catalonia with the most recorded species 86 in all! Some time spent stalking, kneeling and crouching here is well spent, and we should observe a good array of species, with local possibilities including Blue-spot Hairstreak, Green Underside Blue, Long-tailed Blue, Panoptes Blue, Cardinal, Weaver s Fritillary, Glanville Fritillary, Spotted Fritillary, Marsh Fritillary, Nettle-tree Butterfly, Berger s Clouded Yellow, and up to 6 species of Grayling. Our next stop is only a short distance down the same road, where it is worth our changing focus to get a good introduction to the local birdlife. A peaceful amble along a very quiet road to the quaint village of Farena, past hazelnut fields, riverside woodland, pine forests and rocky crags could reveal some of the following species: Crested Tit, Rock Bunting, Cirl Bunting, Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Sardinian Warbler, Subalpine Warbler, Serin and Grey Wagtail. The village itself also has a small population of starlings but are they Common or Spotless? From here it is another short drive to our small hotel in a secluded village in the Prades range. Day 2 Wednesday Montsant For now we will resist the temptation to explore the lovely area around the hotel in order to make the short drive along the winding roads to a quite spectacular setting. This is the village of Siurana, the last stronghold of the Moors in Catalonia, who were finally expelled from here in 1153, after a presence of 284 years. A setting such as this is fertile ground for legends. Or perhaps it is historical fact that tells us that this is the site where the Moorish queen Abdelazia leapt off the cliifs mounted on her white horse rather than be captured by the Christian besiegers? 2 Naturetrek November 09

4 Here we will enjoy a walk around the cliffs and the village itself, admiring the views, its cobbled streets and looking out for raptors and other birds including Griffon Vulture, Bonelli s Eagle, Blue Rock Thrush, Alpine Swift and a local speciality in the shape of the attractive Red-rumped Swallow. We now move on, continuing into the Montsant range, passing picturesque villages and rocky mountainsides. We might be tempted to stop on the way though, especially if we have a chance encounter with colourful birds such as Golden Oriole, Bee-eater or Hoopoe. And let s not forget the rather localised Black Wheatear either. Our final stop is the place known as Scala Dei, a Carthusian monastery whose origins date back to the 12th Century. True, it fell into ruin after the dissolution of the monasteries in 1835, but Scala Dei is still very impressive, especially set as it is against the imposing backdrop of the Montsant mountains. This wonderful natural setting provides us with the opportunity of a pleasant walk, with a good number of interesting butterflies, plants and birds to be seen. We should be heading back to our hotel, but in this land of world-famous wines how could we resist the option of visiting a local wine cellar and indulging in a little wine tasting? Day 3 Thursday Montsant We leave our hotel on foot this morning to walk uphill, through vineyard, field and pinewood to L Abellera, a secluded hermitage tucked into a red sandstone rock face. We are likely to be greeted by plenty of birdsong along the way, including the voices of Western Bonelli s Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Golden Oriole and Nightingale. Woodchat Shrikes and Cirl Buntings inhabit the field edges, Crag Martins wheel about the rock faces and the occasional Goshawk makes its flight over the wooded slopes. The farming village of Ulledmolins is only a short drive away. Beyond the village the way leads through grassy fields and half-neglected almond groves to the foot of the Montsant massif. At a hermitage the road turns into a track and enters mixed woodland of Aleppo Pine and Holm Oak. Between here and the river Montsant there is often a good range of butterflies to be seen, including Blue Spot Hairstreak, Southern White Admiral, Western Marbled White, and a number of blues and skippers. Down by the river the scenery is fantastic, and birds like Blue Rock Thrush, Peregrine Falcon and (Iberian) Green Woodpecker all add a touch of colour to the experience. Furthermore, the most daring of the group may be tempted to take up the offer of sitting under a waterfall, after all it can get quite warm here in the afternoon! Day 4 Friday Today we take leave of our delightful little hotel and promptly make our way to the Ebro Delta. We pass the Roman aqueduct of Tarragona on the way, but we won t be stopping; there are just too many birds to see in the delta! We ll be on the lookout for birds such as Slender-billed, Yellow-legged and Audouin s Gulls, Whiskered, Gull-billed and Caspian Terns, Purple Gallinule, Squacco Heron. Night Heron, Little Bittern, Great White Egret, Naturetrek November 09 3

5 Cattle Egret, Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt, Avocet, Greater Flamingo, Zitting Cisticola, Great Reed Warbler, Red-crested Pochard, Collared Pratincole, Lesser Short-toed Lark, and Greater Short-toed Lark. We will fit as many of these birds as we can into the day in the Ebro delta before undertaking the hour s drive to our second hotel on the northern edge of the picturesque s massif. Day 5 Saturday This is a no-driving day when we will take our time to discover the Ports massif on foot from our hotel, following the course of the River Matarranya upstream towards its source. An impressive gorge awaits at the end of the itinerary, but we will take our time to get there. That s because we don t want to miss any of the local wildlife, including the Spanish Ibex, dozens of Griffon Vultures, perhaps a Golden Eagle or a Bonelli s Eagle (perhaps both!), Red-billed Choughs, Orphean Warbler, the autochthonous river crayfish and spectacular scenery. There is also quite an impressive array of butterflies to be seen in the general area, including the exotic Two-tailed Pasha, the Nettle Tree Butterfly, Cleopatra, etc. A spot of bathing in the clear, cool waters of the River Matarranya is also highly recommended. Day 6 Sunday Another excursion into the Ports massif today will take us past ancient olive groves, where we will admire the gnarled forms of olive trees which must be at least several hundred years old. There are also some well known landmark trees in the area which we will contemplate given half an opportunity. We will also see some handsome dry stone walls on our walk to a gorge cut out of the rock by another of the Ports massif s many rivers. Here we can entertain ourselves looking for amphibians (50% of all the species found in Catalonia occur in this area), orchids, admiring the spectacular scenery and perhaps observing birds like Kingfisher, Rock Sparrow, Bonelli s Eagle and Egyptian Vulture. Later on we ll take a diversion that leads us through a lovely patchwork of olive and almond groves, some abandoned, some still in use, to ford the River Estrets and to enjoy some different birds like Crossbill, Wryneck, Melodious Warbler, Woodlark and Short-toed Eagle. Another fine day will be coming to an end, so how should we finish? Refreshments and a visit to Horta Sant Joan, where Picasso spent eight months at the end of the 19th Century, a short drive to another site to look for Booted Eagle, among others, or contemplation of some of the local landmark trees? We ll see. Day 7 Monday Sadly, our last full day of the tour has arrived. Fortunately we still have plenty of great options to choose from! Probably the best among them is to visit other Mediterranean massifs nearby, overlooking the River Ebro. Their 4 Naturetrek November 09

6 more open, exposed character means that the birdlife to be found here is somewhat different from that of els Ports, so we can reasonably hope to see birds such as Montagu s Harrier, Thekla Lark, Quail, Black-eared Wheatear, Rock Thrush, Dartford Warbler, Southern Grey Shrike and Tawny Pipit. Black Kites patrol the gallery woodland, a species which we may well see when crossing the River Ebro on a tiny river ferry, under the gaze of the imposing Miravet castle. That would seem quite a fitting way to end our tour of the hills and wetlands of southern Catalonia. Day 8 Tuesday London We take leave of our hotel and in little more than an hour we will be at Reus airport, acclimatising to the idea of returning home! Note At some stage of the tour we will endeavour to make at least one crepuscular/nocturnal sortie to look for Eagle Owl, Scop s Owl, Nightjar and Red-necked Nightjar. Grading Grade A. This is a traditional birding tour with no strenuous walking involved although it does involve a few early starts. Suitable for all ages and for all degrees of fitness. Food & accommodation included in the price All food and accommodation is included in the price of this holiday. A swimsuit would be a good idea as one hotel has a pool and there will be opportunities to bath naturally as well. How to book your place In order to book your place on this tour, you will need to read the Naturetrek brochure and booking conditions carefully and then complete and return a booking form (found in the back of the brochure or on our website, together with a deposit of 20% of the holiday cost. If you do not have a copy of the brochure, or should you have any questions about the tour, please call us on or andy@naturetrek.co.uk Naturetrek November 09 5