ORNITHOLIDAYS TOUR TO BRAZIL Iguaçu Falls, Pantanal & Itatiaia September Leader: Colin Bushell

Transcription

1 ORNITHOLIDAYS TOUR TO BRAZIL Iguaçu Falls, Pantanal & Itatiaia September 2008 Leader: Colin Bushell

2 ORNITHOLIDAY S TOUR TO BRAZIL Iguaçu Falls, Pantanal & Itatiaia September 2008 Personal Diary This year s Brazil tour was a little different from the last: we began our tour at Iguaçu this time, dashing from the airport to make a whistle-stop tour of the falls on our first afternoon. We also spent only one night on the Brazil side of the falls this year, the others spent in Argentina. Lots of water, lots of people (though not as many as in our previous tours in June) but some good birds nevertheless. The Black-fronted Piping- Guan on our first morning in Argentina was an undoubted highlight of our stay over the border, but if only we could identify half the butterflies we saw. The Pantanal was next with Hyacinth Macaws in the yard at dawn, Sunbitterns, Jabirus and hordes of Wood Storks on roadside pools and Sungrebes from the boat on the Pixaim almost expected, but nobody could have predicted our incredible good fortune with mammal observations this year. A couple of Tayras, two Jaguars and a Puma is surely just greedy? The Pantanal certainly did not let us down with the birds either. Undulated Tinamous (watched at leisure), Bare-faced Curassows, Chestnut-bellied Guans, Yellow-collared Macaws, Black-hooded Parakeets, Pavonine Cuckoo, Helmeted Manakin, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher and Streamer-tailed Tyrant were all memorable sightings if slightly eclipsed by a couple of big cats! A hundred-plus species day is a regular occurrence in the Pantanal without too much effort. It was indeed unfortunate that the national park near Chapada dos Guimaraes was closed at the time of our visit and the cold, foggy weather as we arrived did not fill us with eternal optimism. But our local guides know their patch and Cerrado areas outside the park served as a more than adequate substitute and we located just about all of the expected birds of Chapada. Our first morning in the Cerrado was quite superb with Blue-winged Macaw, White-rumped Tanager and Horned Sungem the stars of the show. And how about the performance by the Chapada Flycatchers showing us their elaborate display bang on queue. The same cannot be said for our walks in the forests there (deathly hush), but Collared Crescentchest in full song in the early morning sun of our final morning made up for quieter times. Itatiaia, Brazil s oldest national park, recently celebrated its 70 th year and once again we used the Hotel do Ype as our base. Nestled in the park s lush Atlantic Forest, the feeders at the Ype provided us with plenty of distractions as we tried to finish our first Itatiaia breakfast. A fantastic spectacle was provided by the Black Jacobins, Brazilian Rubys and even Frilled Coquettes zipping around the feeders; Saffron Toucanets, Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers, Olive-green Tanagers and Blue-naped Chlorophonias on the fruit-laden trays; Planalto and White-throated Woodcreepers and Pallid Spinetails in the trees at eye-level from the balcony; and Slaty-breasted Wood-Rails strutting along the hotel approach road. Not a bad start! Unfortunately the weather hampered us over the following days although we still managed a very respectable tally from Itatiaia once again and its proximity to either Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro (approximately half way between the two cities) makes it an excellent place to end the tour with a relaxing journey to the airport (via the local Churrascaria of course) to end the tour. 12 September TAM is very efficient opening the check-in desk early and the process is completed smoothly with most of the group assembled with plenty of time to spare. Our flight from London Heathrow to São Paulo leaves without too much delay, arriving in a rather overcast São Paulo where customs clearance seems to take ages, thanks to a rather inefficient process. Finally we gather for a snack and coffee with a chance to get to know each other before checking in for our TAM flight to Foz do Iguaçu. After such a long wait it is disappointing to hear of a delayed departure, so boarding is very welcome when the time comes. Fine weather greets us at Iguaçu where we are met by our local guides and taken to the falls immediately before the park gates close. We see very few birds during a whistle-stop guided tour of the falls, but as dusk approaches flocks of Great Dusky Swifts gather in the sky above Iguacu and begin to tumble towards the rushing torrents before swooping through a gap in the veil of water. We even locate some small parties of roosting swifts as the light fails before heading back to the hotel for dinner. Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 1

3 13 September Our first full day s birding is a welcome feeling indeed. Daniel, our local birding guide picks us up early for our day tour of the Poco Preto Trail on the Brazil side of the falls. The Atlantic Forests of Iguaçu are not as species-rich as those of Itatiaia but there is a subtly different avifauna here. Red-rumped Caciques, Plushcrested Jays, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Chestnut-eared Aracaris, Spot-billed Toucanet, Rufous-capped Motmot and Golden-crowned Warblers are all found before we leave the parking lot. A little further along the trail we find our first White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner and Blond-crested Woodpecker responds immediately to playback. We play hide-and-seek with some female Band-tailed Manakins before moving on but progress is very slow due to the early morning bird activity. Gazing through the canopy to the sky every now and then can produce results in the Neotropics and a soaring raptor grabs our attention. The crested appearance (obvious even in flight) and rufous sides to the head and neck on one bird ring alarm bells and we have an adult Ornate Hawk-Eagle above us. Daniel seems a little surprised at this, explaining that it constitutes only the 4 th record for the national park! A quick burst of the call from the trusty ipod and the Ornate Hawk-Eagle responds with Daniel securing a recording to document the record. Daniel then locates a White-throated Spadebill and as we search for this an even better bird appears in the form of a Rusty-breasted Nunlet. This one is reluctant to show subsequently but does sing back a couple of times however. Black-throated and Surucua Trogons are seen very well adding a splash of colour to the morning after searching for more sombre forest dwellers. Our support vehicle arrives with a field lunch although most of the group are too preoccupied with the stunning butterflies at the puddles. In keeping with past tours the afternoon is much less interesting than the morning at Iguaçu as it becomes hotter. A female Red-crowned Ant-Tanager shows well and we pick out a few flock members in the canopy and sub-canopy such as Ochre-collared Piculet, Eared Pygmy-Tyrant, Streak-capped Antwrens, Rufous-winged Antwrens, Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaners, Plain-winged Woodcreepers and Olivaceous Woodcreepers. Nearing the dock, where we will eventually board our boat, Daniel says that the bamboo is seeding, explaining the presence of some Temminck s Seedeaters. Longtailed Tyrants, Green-headed and Swallow Tanagers, Blue Dacnis and Sirystes are seen en route to a small marsh where a selection of common water birds are seen before a noisy group of tourists turn up. Our boat trip along the Iguaçu River is punctuated for stops to look at Broad-snouted Caiman and flocks of Whiteeyed Parakeets coming into roost on the river islands. A Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail is seen on the track as we walk from the dock to our bus as the light fades. The border crossing into Argentina is quite effortless and in no time at all we find ourselves in Puerto Iguazu and our hotel. 15 September Daniel collects us early this morning so we can enter the national park before most day-trippers arrive. There is plenty to see around the car park on arrival including Campo Flickers, Plush-crested Jays and Blue-and- Yellow Tanager, but Daniel suggests that we enter the boardwalks near the falls before the tourists arrive. Daniel s local knowledge pays off with superb views of one of Iguaçu s key birds the rare Black-fronted Piping-Guan. With plenty of time to use the telescope from one of the many platforms we obtain great views of this rare Atlantic Forest Cracid before it slips away into hiding. Just as folks start to arrive to view the falls, Daniel leads us to the Macuco Trail to start exploring the forest there. A White-bearded Manakin lek near the trail head means a bit of stand-and-wait birding but produces the views we all want of a few cracking (literally) males darting in the undergrowth. The sound of Surucua Trogons ring out in the background as we work on Southern Antpipit and Variable Antshrike before a Spot-backed Antshrike sings in the vine tangles above us. Amazingly this attractive antshrike shows well without any encouragement from recordings at all, a very rare occurrence indeed! Lesser Woodcreeper and then the larger Whitethroated Woodcreepers appear and allow good views before observations of Chestnut-bellied Euphonia and Blue-naped Chlorophonia are interrupted by the sound of a Short-tailed Antthrush singing nearby. Daniel locates this terrestrial bird but unfortunately only a lucky few of the group manage to glimpse it. The Greyhooded Flycatcher that has been calling all this time is finally seen as well as a handsome Black-capped Foliage-Gleaner. Our route to lunch is punctuated with a stop for Bat Falcons but the Churrascaria feast is well received by everyone after a long but productive morning. Our afternoon excursion takes us around the extensive boardwalk system near Garganta del Diablo (Devil s Throat). In truth birds are in short supply apart from our first Yellow-billed Cardinal (preceding the flood gates opening for this species in the Pantanal) of the tour, our only Spotted Sandpipers of the tour and a Blue Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 2

4 Ground-Dove seen by a few from the tourist train. The lower boardwalk leads us to yet another Blondcrested Woodpecker, some Violaceous Euphonias and a couple of very flighty Green-headed Tanagers before we finish our walking tour at the Sheraton Hotel, and the first of many Chalk-browed Mockingbirds of the trip. A weary but satisfied group returns to our hotel in downtown Puerto Iguazu tonight. 16 September It is another morning with near perfect birding weather as we take an early breakfast and a short trip to our first birding site of the morning. We take a short detour just outside the park to a flooded quarry where Daniel has had good results in the past. Maroon-bellied Parakeets show well on the site periphery, perching in the early morning sun and welcome after hearing a few the previous day. Daniel suggests that Blackish Rail may respond to playback and sure enough a couple come into view for short periods, even chasing and helpfully flushing a Rufous-sided Crake! The KM101 has always been a very rewarding birding venue on past tours and despite the warm morning bird activity is high once again today. The fine start to the day means raptors are airborne with Swallowtailed and Plumbeous Kites and best of all a pair of Grey-headed Kites are circling above the treetops with Sick s Swifts sweeping past in the background. Our first Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers of the tour appear, typically in a loose flock on dead trees. These garrulous woodpeckers are Atlantic Forest birds and one we will become better acquainted with at Itatiaia. Rufous-capped Spinetails, Black-goggled Tanagers, Greenwinged Saltators and Three-striped Flycatchers keep us amused over the next hour or so, which is more than can be said for a Tufted Antshrike that fails to show despite a lot of effort. Coffee and biscuits is the order of the day right now, with Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaner, Toco Toucan and yet another Spot-backed Antshrike showing as we snack. Green-barred Woodpecker is discovered at the nest hole in a dead tree over a small swamp and as we near a shady area with a few pairs of Surucua Trogons we realise just how hot it has become and decide to retire for lunch. We take lunch in town today with a short post lunch break at the hotel before heading to the Hummingbird Garden. The garden is busy today with Black-throated Mangos, Black Jacobins, Gilded Sapphires and Versicolored Emeralds with infrequent visits from Planalto Hermit, White-vented Violet-ear and a stunning Glittering-bellied Emerald. There are plenty of Shiny Cowbirds and Ruddy Ground-Doves feeding on the ground too but after a while we decide to make one last foray into the forest at the periphery of the park. It is a little quiet (apart from the Tufted Antshrike that is there to tease us of course) but a small canopy flock is eventually located with Sirystes, Grey Elaenias and Guira Tanagers and we end our afternoon with good views of Planalto Woodcreeper. 17 September The group takes breakfast early this morning and we bid farewell to Argentina, crossing the border to Brazil once again and Foz do Iguaçu airport. We say goodbye to Daniel who has once again been an excellent guide and good company as the TAM flight to Cuiaba leaves pretty punctually and, on arrival in Mato Grosso state, our local guide Ricardo is there waiting for us. Ricardo whisks us off to a local Churrascaria Grill where we all enjoy a hearty lunch before heading into the Pantanal. New birds appear even before we arrive in the Pantanal and stopping at a small swamp north of Pocone produces four species of kingfisher (including American Pygmy), our first Snail Kite, Unicolored Blackbird and Rusty-collared Seedeater. Once we are past Pocone it is even busier: Bare-faced Curassows, Red-winged Tinamous, Red-legged Seriemas, Sunbitterns, Jabirus, White-rumped Monjita, Purplish Jays, Black-capped Donacobius, White-browed Blackbird and Yellow-billed Cardinals are all seen. But the best was yet to come! We turn off the Transpantaneira to our first lodge in the Pantanal near dusk and drive the rough track when Ricardo becomes extremely animated and attempts to control his excitement as he has spotted a PUMA! Unbelievably this magnificent beast pauses long enough for the whole group to see it by the pool. Quietly disembarking from the bus we also manage to obtain second looks of it (or maybe another it looked smaller?) on the track we watch the graceful cat disappear into the long grass and bushes. What a moment! We are late arriving at the lodge, but who cares? We even have enough time to spot light Undulated Tinamou, a Great Potoo and some Red Brocket Deers before arriving at Pouso Alegre Lodge. Dinner and list is a very pleasant affair tonight with lots to talk about over some very nice food. Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 3

5 18 September Early morning at Pouso Alegre is without fail an experience to savour. Hyacinth Macaws flying by the ranch, Rheas in the open ground, noisy Monk Parakeets and Blue-fronted Parrots over the yard, White Woodpeckers and Campo Flickers on posts, Scaled Doves and Red-crested Cardinals outside the kitchen. Grey-crested Cachalotes, Narrow-billed Woodcreepers and a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl frequent the trees right outside the dining room serving as a reminder that we are yet to have breakfast! No need to wander far from the lodge for birds as they are all around. Ricardo locates some Screaming Cowbirds in with the Chopi Blackbirds but the regular Great Rufous Woodcreeper is missing this morning. The Pantanal is of course famous for its water birds but we decide to try one of the forest trails this morning. The problem here is actually getting there, as there are so many distractions. Brazilian Teal, Plumbeous and Buff-necked Ibis and a single Orange-winged Parrot divert us away from the forest in the open areas with Mato Grosso Antbird and Rufous-tailed Jacamars in the dense scrub. A Tayra (a member of the Racoon family) is seen briefly by some members of the group before we take to the shade of the forest trail, beckoned by a singing male Helmeted Manakin. It is some time before we actually see the manakin in fact, as Rusty-fronted Tody- Flycatcher, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Forest Elaenia, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Fuscous Flycatcher, Thrush-like and Buff-breasted Wrens, Creamy-bellied Thrush and Ashy-headed Greenlet delay us a bit! A Flavescent Warbler fails to show despite singing clearly nearby but the White-lored Spinetails appear more cooperative than usual at the moment and everyone gets good views. Suddenly what sounds like a distant Pavonine Cuckoo calls but one phrase of playback shows that this bird is in fact very close indeed as it swoops low over ground-level branches to perch. We all watch this rare cuckoo my first in the Pantanal for as long as possible. Sadly it s time to leave the trail but in no time we are back in the open. It has taken us more than three hours to cover a 10 minute walk in the forest thanks to the birds! Leaving Pouso Alegre is always difficult but we have to move on to the Rio Pixaim this afternoon. Once again it is a slow process with Long-tailed Ground-Doves, Yellow-chinned Spinetails, White-headed Marsh- Tyrants and Black-backed Water-Tyrants holding us up. Some Capybaras have underwater fun in the pools as we pass, but some elegant waders at the water s edge halt our progress. A dozen or so American Golden Plovers are feeding with the Southern Lapwings and it is a good opportunity to appreciate some of the differences between this and the Eurasian counterparts as we have the American birds so close. One last look at the newly christened Puma Pool before we leave produces a host of birds coming to drink and bathe in the afternoon heat. We scope a pair of Undulated Tinamous for 20 minutes at least, as a male Barefaced Curassow struts from one side of the pool to the other. Rusty-collared Seedeater, Lesser Seedfinch and Solitary Cacique are just some of the birds on display this afternoon before we move on to the Transpantaneira and head south. A small patch of dry woodland lets us add Black-fronted Nunbird and Rufous Casiornis to our list quickly before we simply have to drive south. One last planned stop sees us at a regular site for Scarlet-headed Blackbird and it is there just like Ricardo said it would be. Maguari Stork and Marsh Deers are found out in the swamp and Roseate Spoonbills, Rufescent Tiger-Herons and even Sunbitterns are now commonplace as we pass them by in roadside pools. Finally we arrive at our hotel by the Rio Pixaim, just in time for a healthy serving of Piranha Soup! 19 September This morning we make the first of our forays into the gallery forest along the Rio Pixaim. Mato Grosso Antbirds scold from the scrub bordering the river as we make our way to the river. As we enter the forest some of the birds seen the previous day can be heard: Ashy-headed Greenlet, Large-billed Antwren and Helmeted Manakin. Some Rusty-backed Spinetails call nearby though and surprisingly enter the forest (they usually frequent the water s edge) and show very well indeed. Flavescent Warbler is another bird only heard the previous day that decides to cooperate this morning and perches in view for the whole group to see. Helmeted Manakin performs better too but the same cannot be said for a Red-billed Scythebill that really gives us the run-around. White-lored Spinetails are seen foraging in the leaf litter as we make our way out of the forests and through some Cerrado-like habitat, where Masked Gnatcatcher and Barred Antshrike are seen, before our main target here the smart Rusty-backed Antwren responds to tape playback. We soon have the dapper male and the streaky female at close quarters. After a quick break for refreshments back at the hotel we are back in the bus again and heading south on the Tranpantaneira. In no time at all we have located a pair of Southern Screamers that have been frequenting this area during the last few weeks but a smart pair of Blue-crowned Trogons divert our attention momentarily. Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 4

6 After a siesta it is time to take one of our boat trips on the Pixaim. Always one of the tour highlights, the boat trip never fails to deliver a wide variety of species and this afternoon s excursion is no different. Bluethroated Piping-Guan, Chestnut-bellied Guan and Bare-faced Curassows, all usually shy and retiring, seem quite oblivious as we pass by the shores in the boat. One of the tour targets is Sungrebe and the boat trip is undoubtedly the best chance of seeing one. It is not long before this strange finfoot appears and we see a couple more distant birds ahead of the boat too. Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher (our fifth kingfisher) is finally seen (alongside a Pygmy Kingfisher briefly) but Yellow-collared Macaws appear only fleetingly once again. Band-tailed Antbirds (always near water) flit from branch to branch amongst some overhanging vegetation and as dusk falls Band-tailed and Nacunda Nighthawks gather over the water. A superb end to the day only finished off by the appearance of a Crab-eating Fox outside the hotel as we eat dinner. 20 September Today is cold! Normally it is shirtsleeves here in the Pantanal but today deserves a fleece. We start with a stroll to the airfield just behind the hotel with Chaco Chachalacas as our early morning call and a Greater Thornbird accompanying us along the covered hotel walkway into some waste ground. A small damp area looks good for Chotoy Spinetail and sure enough a pair show really well sitting on top of some high reed stems. Out on the airfield we see Grassland Sparrow and a White-rumped Monjita before stormy skies overhead threaten and we head back for breakfast. After a short while with Solitary Caciques, Purplish Jays and Greyish Saltators on the bird tables we take a bus ride to a local fazenda where Ricardo has seen Black-hooded Parakeet of late. This is an easily missed bird in this part of the Pantanal and as there is some nice forest there we intend to spend the morning at the ranch. A brief stop on the road produces White-naped Xenopsaris and Cinereous-breasted Spinetail but rain sets in. The forest is interesting despite showers, with Red-billed Scythebills, Buff-throated Woodcreepers, Little Woodpecker, Planalto Hermit and Black-fronted Nunbirds, but nothing new. The open grassland and borders has Great Black-Hawk (a patchy fawn immature, so different from the black adults) and some magnificent Hyacinth Macaws and the rain stops as we arrive at the ranch buildings. No sign of the parakeets but news from the property owner is very interesting indeed. A Jaguar has been seen just down the river, present in the same area for the last three days! A boat is hired in the shortest possible time and the first boatload is on the river in no time at all. Thumbs up from Ricardo as the first members of the group secure Jaguar for the tour list and even some photos. I accompany the second launch and even though I have seen a couple of Jaguars before, the size of this brute resting under a riverside log is truly awesome. We view the Jaguar head-on, the huge jaws open wide as he yawns but we are warned to keep the boat at a safe distance from the bank just in case. With a few record shots taken we retreat and the group assembles on the bank by the ranch very satisfied indeed. As if by magic Ricardo locates the Black-hooded Parakeets in the trees above us after all that is what we came here for! Back on the road we watch a handsome Laughing Falcon and obtain very close views of a Marsh Deer below the bridge. Our afternoon boat trip is spoilt a little by the cold weather and showers and in truth rather disappointing due to the absence of the Giant River Otters. We add very little to yesterday s river birds apart from Rustymargined Flycatchers, though we do see a couple of more Sungrebes and the nighthawks perform once again. Nearing dark the lights on the mast near the hotel seem an age away as the river meanders but we finally arrive and the Piranha soup is more popular this evening for sure in these chilly conditions. 21 September Time to leave the Pantanal unfortunately. The unseasonably cold weather means that most of us set off in fleece jackets so warmer conditions would be much appreciated. One last chance to look at some Hyacinth Macaws is gratefully received as well as some good views of Scarlet-headed Blackbirds but a Tayra at the forest edge halts progress. Thankfully the whole group sees this one but we are back on the bus for no time at all before another Jaguar is spotted! This one is sitting in the middle of a field allowing scope views and waiting to be photographed. After a while he starts moving and ambles off into the cover of the trees, leaving us astounded at our luck. Two Jaguars (photos show that this was different to yesterday s) in two days incredible. Another stop on the Transpantaneira allows us to get acquainted with yet another Whitenaped Xenopsaris and a White-bellied Seedeater in the marshes, Green-backed Becard and Red-crested Finch are seen in the woods, before we head towards Pocone and exit the Pantanal. Lunch is at a local Churrascaria and shortly afterwards we stop at a damp roadside area and try for Streamer-tailed Tyrant. A Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 5

7 very territorial male responds to a recording of his song and hangs around long enough for everyone to appreciate, even with the distraction of a couple of pairs of Yellow-collared Macaws that show well at last. As we near Cuiaba the weather is still overcast but a little warmer. Nearing Chapada the plateau is shrouded in fog and visibility is down to a few metres at times near the Hotel Penhasco, so we call it a day, and meet again for dinner after a very exciting day indeed. 22 September Despite heavy fog around the hotel in Chapada dos Guimaraes, the Cerrado below is almost completely clear. The Agua Fria road is traditionally the best spot to pick up most of the specialities so it seems sensible to start here and we see many of the local rarities without too much trouble. White-tailed Kites, Aplomado Falcon, Red-shouldered Macaw, Black-throated Saltators, White-rumped Tanagers, White-banded Tanagers, Coal-crested Finch and Horned Sungem all show very quickly with raucous Blue-winged Macaws perched nearby for good measure. Further along the road we locate the recently described Chapada Flycatcher and witness its strange display that aided its separation from Campo Suiriri. White-eared Puffbird, Pale-breasted Spinetail and Rufous-winged Antshrike are located and Red-and-green Macaws look superb as they glide across the distant horizon, and Pampas Deer is an unexpected bonus. With the morning heating up we head for the woodlands for our first White-bellied Warblers, White-wedged Piculets, Chestnut-vented Conebills and a Blue-crowned Motmot, and a dark phase Short-tailed Hawk circles above us. Yellow-ridged Toucans appear in the highest trees after some time calling in the distance, and a party of Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers appear too. Moustached Wrens, scurrying around in the vine tangle as usual, prove difficult to get a good look at but some Plain Antvireos perform better. Afternoons are always difficult in the tropics as the birding can be flat and very quiet. However, I have never known the Jamaca Valley near Chapada as quiet as this afternoon. Hardly a call or song from the forest all afternoon and the manakins were definitely sulking! We did manage to find an Ochre-bellied Flycatcher and a few Forest Elaenias but generally the chilly air and dark sky kept bird activity low this afternoon. A speculative look for Crested Black-Tyrant late in the afternoon pays dividends when a Yellowbilled Blue Finch appears. This is a very tricky bird to find even at its traditional haunts inside the national park. The afternoon is saved at the eleventh hour. 23 September Another day on the Cerrado started along the road to Lago Azul with Red-legged Seriemas calling in the distance and Burrowing Owls on the fence posts close to the road. In fact the Cerrado is a little disappointing this morning with just a few new birds making themselves available. White-eared Puffbirds and Whiterumped Tanagers call from the forest edge but in truth it is hard work in the open country as the morning heats up. Red-and-green Macaws glide majestically across the rocky outcrops but there is no sign of the Yellow-faced Parrots today. Ash-throated Crakes call in the distance but it is soon time for a bit of refreshment before heading back towards Chapada. A brief stop at the viewpoint in hope of Crested Black Tyrant produces a very nice Grey Monjita and plenty of Cliff Flycatchers before our target bird is eventually found. The Crested Black-Tyrants are located on a small rocky plateau below us and it is good to see these here as they are only readily found inside the national park usually. In the afternoon we visit one of the small forested areas where we find Brown Jacamar very easily indeed as well as a pristine Helmeted Manakin. Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper gives us a difficult time but there is plenty to see besides, including Rufous-tailed Jacamar and Blue-crowned Motmot - but a Fiery-capped Manakin refuses to budge from the depths of the forest. A quick stop at the Agua Fria road allows us to catch up with Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant before moving on for a spot of night birding. Pauraques show well at dusk at the Jamaca Valley, but a Tropical Screech-Owl approaches in response to playback but evades detection. 24 September One final chance for some Cerrado birding this morning sees us on the Agua Fria road where we locate our target bird quite quickly, when a Collared Crescentchest calls not far from the road. This attractive tapaculo is found perched in a low position at the Cerrado edge before we have to leave for Cuiaba. At the airport we say goodbye to Ricardo and meet up with Giuliano, our guide for the Itatiaia section of our tour. Our TAM flight leaves with delay, but everything goes well with all luggage accounted for at Guarulhos Airport in Sao Paulo and we head off along the highway to Itatiaia. With a fairly late arrival in Itatiaia we opt to head Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 6

8 straight for dinner at the Hotel do Ype and retire, looking forward to a lively day in the field in search of Atlantic Forest birds. A few of us manage to see a pair of Tawny-browed Owls while looking at moths outside the hotel tonight. 25 September A first morning in Itatiaia is a marvellous experience. Breakfast has to be early; otherwise there will simply be just too much distraction to finish the meal! Feeding (by the birds) starts early with White-throated Hummingbirds, Brazilian Rubys, Black Jacobins and even Frilled Coquettes on the feeders. The fruit trays are well patronised too with Saffron Toucanets, Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers, Olive-green Tanagers, Chestnut-bellied Euphonias, Blue-naped Chlorophonias and Green-headed Tanagers. Planalto Woodcreepers and Pallid Spinetails scurry along the trunks at eye level from the restaurant balcony as noisy Maroonbellied Parakeets fly by and Slaty-breasted Wood-Rails strut along the road to the hotel. Venturing out from the hotel we pick up Brown Tanager as Dusky-legged Guans scamper across the road in front of us. At the bottom of the road our first Uniform Finches appear in the bamboo and Giuliano explains that they are very numerous at the moment due to the seeding bamboo. White-collared and Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaners appear in quick succession as Star-throated Antwrens perform beautifully in the forest border below us. Eventually we meet the trailhead and we take a path towards the Hotel Simon. Streakcapped Antwren, Ferruginous Antbird and best of all a Rufous Gnateater are found along this trail. Nearing the hotel we bump into Fred Tavares, who is mentioned in the previous Ornitholidays tour report, being used by our group. He is a birding guide himself now and gives us a few snippets of news before we set off up the lower section of the Tres Picos trail. Some Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrants are calling from the bamboo and show to a few members of the group but Brassy-breasted Tanagers show better before we stroll to the Hotel Simon where Carlos is waiting with his bus for us. On the way back to the Hotel do Ype we bump into Fred once again who kindly flags us down as he has located a fine Black-capped Piprites (a key bird and one that is best seen at Itatiaia). Back at the hotel we take some time to acquaint ourselves with a few of the resident birds before setting off once again. The afternoon is predictably quieter than the morning (that had a Wow Factor according to Ken) but we continue to see plenty of good birds such as Red-breasted Toucan, Surucua Trogon, Variegated and Piratic Flycatchers, and better views of Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrants are obtained by the whole group. In the late afternoon we return to the hotel in time to look for Short-tailed Nighthawks and sure enough one swoops over the forest canopy after just a few minutes wait. 26 September It is a very early start this morning as we are heading into the highlands and the Agulhas Negras road. The weather is not too bad on arrival and different birds are in evidence like the Giant Antshrike calling in the distance. Rufous-tailed Antbird and São Paulo Tyrannulet call from the dense undergrowth, but fail to show, before our first Diademed Tanagers appear. Both Rufous-rumped and Bay-chested Warbling-Finches can be seen in the forest edge but a Red-ruffed Fruitcrow shows only briefly before disappearing in the forest. The weather worsens but soldiering on we manage to see a few of the special birds of this higher elevation such as Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin, Brown-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant and Blue-billed Black-Tyrant before rain sets in. We take shelter in the bus, passing the time by drinking coffee and eating snacks but the rain becomes torrential. An hour passes and reluctantly we have to descend in the hope of finding somewhere to bird watch. We make it down to Itatiaia village where a local marsh has very little to offer apart from a yellow-finch, possibly a Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch but due to its rather bedraggled and wet appearance is best left as a possible I think. A marsh nearer the village is more productive (if noisier) with some very nice additions to our species list including Tawny-headed Swallow, Wing-banded Hornero, South American Snipe and Chestnut-capped Blackbird. 27 September Another rather cloudy day see us starting on the trail above the Maromba Bridge known as the Jeep Track. Mainly bamboo, the Jeep Track can be quiet at times but the overcast conditions this morning are not helping at all. Slowly birds begin to appear with our first Ochre-rumped Antbirds showing and Ferruginous Antbirds seemingly everywhere. Yellow-browed Woodpecker and White-spotted Woodpeckers, Blackbilled Scythebill and Sooty Grassquits appear after a fair bit of work along the Jeep Track before the trail begins to climb a little. Another Rufous Gnateater shows well and Grey-capped Tyrannulets appear just in Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 7

9 time before the rain starts. The showers turn to heavy rain and we have to make a hasty retreat to the Maromba Bridge. The downpour abates eventually but our walk back to the hotel is quite uneventful despite the drier conditions. Our afternoon excursion finds us in the lower sections of the park near the museum. Bird activity is low, perhaps due to the inclement weather, but nice views of Rufous-thighed Kite, Rufous-headed Tanager and Tropical Pewee make our outing worthwhile. Eastern Slaty-Thrush is a good surprise here too. Giuliano takes us to the viewpoint in the lower part of the park to end our day where some very nice Burnish-buff Tanagers can be seen. 28 September We only have a morning to spare in the field today before our journey back to the airport. The trail from the Hotel Simon to the Hotel Donati has always been productive in the past so we take that option today. Thankfully the trail is quite lively for birds this morning with Grey-hooded Attila our first target bird seen well. White-collared Foliage-Gleaners, White-throated Spadebill, Ochre-rumped and Bertoni s Antbirds show well. Of course there are some that remain detected but hidden, such as the Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant and that Pin-tailed Manakin that appears all too briefly, but birds are quite active nonetheless. A Such s (Cryptic) Antthrush singing in the distance sounds quite interested in a recording of its voice and shows soon after, walking along a horizontal bamboo stalk before dropping to the ground. A very shy Spot-breasted Antvireo is located before we finally arrive at the Hotel Donati where Carlos is waiting for us. Back at the Hotel do Ype there is just time for one last tick in the form of a Plain Parakeet before we settle our bills, eat lunch and leave Itatiaia for the final time. The journey into Sao Paulo takes us across some rather uninspiring countryside and we divert into downtown Guarulhos for our last feast at a Churrascaria. After another good Brazilian meal we head to the airport where Carlos and Giuliano say farewell and we check in for our flight with TAM to London Heathrow. 29 September Our TAM flight is delayed by an hour so we arrive in London a little late and with luggage retrieval completed we head off in different directions after another successful Ornitholidays Brazil tour. Acknowledgements. Thanks to the whole party for their good humour and enthusiasm throughout the tour. The success of the tour is of course due to our local expertise and Daniel, Ricardo and Giuliano deserve great praise in this respect. I know everybody appreciated their personalities as much as their bird finding skills. Colin Bushell Ornitholidays 29 Straight Mile Romsey Hampshire SO51 9BB Tel: info@ornitholidays.co.uk October 2008 Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 8

10 Itinerary and Weather We experienced perfect birding weather at Iguaçu with fine sunny days, no rain and comfortable temperatures 28-30ºC. Our first few days in the Pantanal were typically hot (30-32ºC), dry and sunny. By 20 th September the weather changed dramatically however with overcast conditions, some drizzle and temperatures down to 25ºC. On 21 st we left the Pantanal in chilly conditions arriving at Chapada dos Guimaraes in thick fog and cold weather (14ºC.). Thankfully the weather improved the next day and we experienced more typical conditions for the rest of our stay on the plateau with hot and sunny weather. Itatiaia NP with its higher elevation brought us the most variable weather. Typically chilly starts to the day become warm and our first day (25 th ) followed this pattern. However, that evening a cold front arrived bringing heavy cloud, rain and cooler temperatures (down to 10ºC.) Itinerary 12 th September Group assemble at London, Heathrow. TAM flight to Guarulhos, São Paulo departs late evening. 13 th September Early arrival in São Paulo. Long wait in Guarulhos International Airport for connection with TAM to Foz do Iguacu. Tour of Falls on Brazil side late afternoon. Overnight Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil. 14 th September Poco Preto Trail all day. Evening transfer over the border to Puerto Iguazu in Argentina. 15 th September Birding in Iguazu NP. Boardwalks and Macuco Trail in the morning. Visit to the Devil s Throat in the afternoon. 16 th September KM 101 road in the morning. Afternoon at the Puerto Iguazu Hummingbird Garden and fringes of the national park. 17 th September Early departure from our hotel in Argentina back over the border into Brazil. Flight from Iguaçu to Cuiaba and lunch just outside Varzea Grande. Drive to Pouso Alegre in the Pantanal seeing Puma on arrival! 18 th September Birding around Pouso Alegre all morning with a post-lunch transfer to the Pantanal Mato Grosso Hotel. 19 th September Birding in the gallery forest in the morning. Afternoon boat trip on the Rio Pixaim. 20 th September Morning visit to Fazenda Campo Largo where we see our first Jaguar of the tour. Afternoon boat trip on the Rio Pixaim. 21 st September Departure from the Pantanal Hotel Mato Grosso for Chapada dos Guimaraes. Progress interrupted by a Jaguar en route to Cuiaba! Arrival at Chapada in dense fog. 22 nd September Morning in the Cerrado at Agua Fria Road and forests of Portao de Fe. Afternoon in the Jamaca Valley. 23 rd September Morning visit to the Lago Azul road calling in at the Mirante (viewpoint) for Crested Black-Tyrant en route back to Chapada for lunch. Afternoon birding at Cachoeirinha (forest near the small waterfall) and the start of the Agua Fria road. Evening visit to the Jamaca Valley for night birds. Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 9

11 24 th September Brief visit to the Chapada Cerrado before leaving for Cuiaba to connect with flights to São Paulo. Arrival in Guarulhos and then journey (by bus) to Itatiaia. Arrival in the Hotel do Ype around 8 PM. 25 th September Birding Itatiaia NP near the Hotel do Ype early morning (1,000 11,000m) and walking the trail along to the Hotel Simon. Afternoon near the Hotel Donati, arriving back at the Ype for dusk to watch Short-tailed Nighthawks. 26 th September Agulhas Negras Road (1,700m) in the morning, returning to Itatiaia early due to bad weather. Afternoon in farmland and marshes near the village. 27 th September Morning birding near the Maromba Bridge and Jeep Track in Itatiaia NP. Afternoon in the park near the old museum. 28 th September Morning birding on the trail between the Hotel Simon down to the Hotel Donati. Postlunch departure for Guarulhos, São Paulo with a last meal in a local Churrascaria before checking in for our TAM flight to the UK. 29 th September Mid-afternoon arrival at London Heathrow and baggage collection before saying goodbyes. Another successful Ornitholidays tour to Brazil! Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 10

12 CHECKLIST OF SPECIES SEEN DURING THE TOUR Number of days recorded Locations Abundance 1 2h means seen P = Pantanal 1 = 1 4 on one day and C = Chapada dos Guimaraes 2 = 5 9 heard on two It = Itatiaia National Park 3 = other days. Ig = Iguaçu (Brazil & Argentina) 4 = > = en route to any of the above localities 5 = 1,000+ SPECIES No of days recorded Location Abundance Scale SCIENTIFIC NAME RHEAS RHEIDAE Greater Rhea 6 P C 2 Rhea americana TINAMOUS TINAMIDAE Brown Tinamou - 3h Ig It 1 Crypturellus obsoletus Undulated Tinamou 3 4h P C 1 C. undulatus Tataupa Tinamou - 1h C 1 C. tataupa Red-winged Tinamou 1 2h P C 1 Rhynchotus rufescens CORMORANTS PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant 7 Ig P 3 Phalacrocorax brasilianus DARTERS ANHINGIDAE Anhinga 5 Ig P 3 Anhinga anhinga HERONS, EGRETS ARDEIDAE White-necked Heron 6 Ig P 3 Ardea cocoi Great Egret 10 Ig P It 4 Ardea alba Little Blue Heron 5 P 3 Egretta caerulea Snowy Egret 7 Ig P It 3 Egretta thula Striated Heron 5 P 2 Butorides striatus Cattle Egret 11 Ig P C It 4 Bubulcus ibis Whistling Heron 4 P 2 Syrigma sibilatrix Capped Heron 4 P 2 Pilherodius pileatus Black-crowned Night-Heron 5 Ig P 3 Nycticorax nycticorax Boat-billed Heron 2 P 1 Cochlearius cochlearia Rufescent Tiger-Heron 5 P 2 Tigrisoma lineatum STORKS COCHLEARIIDAE Wood Stork 7 P C 3 Mycteria americana Maguari Stork 2 P 1 Ciconia maguari Jabiru 5 P 3 Jabiru mycteria IBISES THRESKIORNITHIDAE Plumbeous Ibis 5 P 3 Theristicus caerulescens Buff-necked Ibis 6 P C 3 T. caudatus Green Ibis 5 1h Ig P 1 Mesembrinibis cayennensis Whispering Ibis 3 P 2 Phimosus infuscatus Roseate Spoonbill 4 P 3 Ajaia ajaja SCREAMERS ANHIMIDAE Southern Screamer 1 P 1 Chauna torquata DUCKS ANATIDAE Brazilian Teal 3 P It 2 Amazonetta brasiliensis Muscovy Duck 4 Ig P 1 Cairina moschata AMERICAN VULTURES CATHARTINAE King Vulture 2 Ig C 1 Sarcoramphus papa Black Vulture 16 Ig P C It 3 Coragyps atratus Turkey Vulture 14 Ig P C It 3 Cathartes aura Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 11

13 Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture 4 P It 2 Cathartes burrovianus KITES, HAWKS ACCIPTRINAE White-tailed Kite 1 C 1 Elanus leucurus Pearl Kite 2 C 1 Gampsonyx swainsonii Swallow-tailed Kite 4 Ig C 2 Elanoides forficatus Grey-headed Kite 1 Ig 1 Leptodon cayanensis Rufous-thighed Kite 2 It 1 Harpagus diodon Plumbeous Kite 8 Ig P C 2 Ictinia plumbea Snail Kite 4 P 3 Rostrhamus sociabilis White-tailed Hawk 1 C 1 Buteo albicaudatus Roadside Hawk 9 4h Ig P C It 1 B. magnirostris Short-tailed Hawk 2 Ig C 1 B. brachyurus Black-collared Hawk 5 P 2 Busarellus nigricollis Savanna Hawk 6 P C 2 Buteogallus meridionalis Great Black-Hawk 3 P 1 B. urubitinga Ornate Hawk-Eagle 1 Ig 1 Spizaetus ornatus Black Hawk-Eagle 1 It 1 S. tyrannus Crane Hawk 3 P 1 Geranospiza caerulescens CARACARAS, FALCONS FALCONIDAE Laughing Falcon 1 P 1 Herpetotheres cachinnans Barred Forest-Falcon - 2h It 1 Micrastur ruficollis Yellow-headed Caracara 4 P It 1 Milvago chimachima Southern Caracara 14 Ig P C It 3 Caracara plancus Bat Falcon 2 Ig P 1 Falco rufigularis Aplomado Falcon 3 P C It 1 F. femoralis American Kestrel 4 C It 1 F. sparverius GUANS, CURASSOWS CRACIDAE Chaco Chachalaca 5 P 3 Ortalis canicollis Dusky-legged Guan 4 It 3 Penelope obscura Chestnut-bellied Guan 3 P 2 Pipile ochrogaster Blue-throated Piping-Guan 1 P 1 P. cumanensis Black-fronted Piping-Guan 1 Ig 1 P. jacutinga Bare-faced Curassow 4 P 2 Crax fasciolata QUAILS ODONTOPHORIDAE Spot-winged Wood-Quail - 1h It 1 Odontophorus capueira LIMPKINS ARAMIDAE Limpkin 6 Ig P 4 Aramus guarauna RAILS, COOTS RALLIDAE Blackish Rail 2 Ig It 1 Rallus nigricans Grey-necked Wood-Rail 6 P C 3 Aramides cajanea Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail 3 1h Ig It 2 A. saracura Ash-throated Crake - 1h C 1 Porzana albicollis Rufous-sided Crake 1 Ig 1 Lateralus melanophaius Common Moorhen 2 Ig It 1 Gallinula chloropus Purple Gallinule 2 P 1 Porphyrio martinica SUNGREBES HELIORNITHIDAE Sungrebe 2 P 1 Heliornis fulica SUNBITTERNS EURYPYGIDAE Sunbittern 5 P 2 Eurypyga helias SERIEMAS CARIAMIDAE Red-legged Seriema 2 2h P C 1 Cariama cristata JACANAS JACANIDAE Wattled Jacana 6 Ig P 3 Jacana jacana OYSTERCATCHERS HAEMATOPODIDAE Black-necked Stilt 1 P 1 Himantopus mexicanus Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 12

14 PLOVERS CHARADRIIDAE Southern Lapwing 14 Ig P C It 3 Vanellus chilensis American Golden Plover 1 P 3 Pluvialis dominicus Solitary Sanpiper 5 P 1 Tringa solitaria Spotted Sandpiper 1 Ig 1 Actitis. macularia South American Snipe 1 It 1 Gallinago paraguaiae GULLS, TERNS LARINAE Large-billed Tern 3 P 2 Phaetusa simplex PIGEONS, DOVES COLUMBIDAE Picazuro Pigeon 14 Ig P C It 3 Columba picazuro Pale-vented Pigeon 4 P It 1 C. cayennensis Plumbeous Pigeon 2 It 1 C. plumbea Eared Dove 5 Ig P 2 Zenaida auriculata Scaled Dove 5 P 3 Scardafella squammata Ruddy Ground-Dove 7 Ig P C It 3 Columbina talpacoti Picui Ground-Dove 4 P 3 C. picui Blue Ground-Dove 1 Ig 1 Claravis pretiosa Long-tailed Ground-Dove 3 P 2 Uropelia campestris White-tipped Dove 5 1h It P C 2 Leptotila verreauxi Grey-fronted Dove 2 1h Ig 1 L. rufaxilla Ruddy Quail-Dove - 1h Ig 1 Geotrygon montana MACAWS, PARROTS PSITTACIDAE Hyacinth Macaw 3 P 2 Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus Red-and-green Macaw 3 C 2 A. chloropterus Blue-winged Macaw 1 1h C 2 A. maracana Yellow-collared Macaw 3 P 1 A. auricollis Red-shouldered Macaw 1 C 1 Diopsittaca nobilis White-eyed Parakeet 11 1h Ig P C It 4 Aratinga leucophthalmus Peach-fronted Parakeet 3 P C 2 A. aurea Black-hooded Parakeet 1 P 1 Nandayus nenday Maroon-bellied Parakeet 4 2h Ig It 3 Pyrrhura frontalis Monk Parakeet 4 P 3 Myiopsitta monachus Blue-winged Parrotlet 3 1h Ig It 2 Forpus xanthopterygius Plain Parakeet 1 It 1 Brotogeris tirica Yellow-chevroned Parakeet 6 P C 3 B. chiriri Pileated Parrot - 2h It 1 Pionopsitta pileata Blue-headed Parrot 1 C 1 Pionus menstruus Scaly-headed Parrot 8 Ig P It 3 P. maximiliani Blue-fronted Parrot 5 P 3 Amazona aestiva Orange-winged Parrot 1 P 1 Amazona amazonica NEW WORLD CUCKOOS COCCYZIDAE Squirrel Cuckoo 9 Ig P C It 1 Piaya cayana ANIS CROTOPHAGIDAE Smooth-billed Ani 9 Ig P C It 3 Crotophaga ani Guira Cuckoo 7 P C 3 Guira guira GROUND CUCKOOS NEOMORPHIDAE Striped Cuckoo - 3h P 1 Tapera naevia Pavonine Cuckoo 1 P 1 Dromococcyx pavoninus OWLS STRIGIDAE Tropical Screech-Owl - 1h C 1 Otus choliba Tawny-browed Owl 3 2h It 1 Pulsatrix koeniswaldiana Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl 1 2h Ig P 1 Glaucidium brasilianum Burrowing Owl 3 C 2 Athene cunicularia POTOOS NYCTIBIIDAE Great Potoo 1 P 1 Nyctibius grandis Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 13

15 NIGHTJARS CAPRIMULGIDAE Short-tailed Nighthawk 1 It 1 Lurocalis semitorquatus Band-tailed Nighthawk 3 P 3 Nyctiprogne leucopyga Nacunda Nighthawk 2 P 2 Podager nacunda Pauraque 2 1h P C 1 Nyctidromus albicollis SWIFTS APODIDAE White-collared Swift 5 C It 3 Streptoprocne zonaris Great Dusky Swift 4 Ig 4 Cypseloides senex Sick's Swift 6 Ig It 3 C. meridionalis HUMMINGBIRDS TROCHILIDAE Scale-throated Hermit 3 It 1 Phaethornis eurynome Planalto Hermit 3 Ig P It 1 P. pretrei Swallow-tailed Hummingbird 2 C It 1 Eupetomena macroura Black Jacobin 4 Ig It 3 Melanotrochilus fuscus White-vented Violet-ear 2 Ig C 1 Colibri serrirostris Black-throated Mango 2 Ig It 1 Anthracothorax nigricollis Frilled Coquette 2 It 1 Lophornis magnificus Glittering-bellied Emerald 2 Ig C 1 Chlorostilbon aureoventris Fork-tailed Woodnymph 1 P 1 Thalurania furcata Violet-capped Woodnymph 7 Ig It 3 T. glaucopis Gilded Sapphire 1 Ig 3 Hylocharis chrysura White-throated Hummingbird 4 It 3 Leucochloris albicollis Versicolored Emerald 5 Ig It 3 Amazilia versicolor Glittering-throated Emerald 4 P 2 A. fimbriata Brazilian Ruby 4 It 3 Clytolaema rubricauda Horned Sungem 1 C 1 Heliactin cornuta TROGONS TROGONIDAE Black-throated Trogon 1 Ig 1 Trogon rufus Surucua Trogon 6 Ig It 2 T. surrucura Blue-crowned Trogon 4 1h P C 1 T. curucui KINGFISHERS CERYLIDAE Ringed Kingfisher 7 Ig P 3 Megaceryle torquata Amazon Kingfisher 7 Ig P 3 Chloroceryle amazona Green Kingfisher 5 P 1 C. americana Green-and-rufous Kingfisher 2 P 1 C. inda American Pygmy Kingfisher 3 P 1 C. aenea MOTMOTS MOMOTIDAE Rufous-capped Motmot 1 1h Ig 1 Baryphthengus ruficapillus Blue-crowned Motmot 2 C 1 Momotus momota JACAMARS GALBULIDAE Brown Jacamar 1 C 1 Brachygalba lugubris Rufous-tailed Jacamar 5 P C 2 Galbula ruficauda PUFFBIRDS BUCCONIDAE White-eared Puffbird 3 C 1 Nystalus chacuru Black-fronted Nunbird 5 P C 2 Monasa nigrifrons Rusty-breasted Nunlet 1 Ig 1 Nonnula rubecula TOUCANS, ARACARIS RAMPHASTIDAE Chestnut-eared Aracari 7 1h Ig P C 2 Pteroglossus castanotis Spot-billed Toucanet 1 1h Ig 1 Selenidera maculirostris Saffron Toucanet 3 It 2 Baillonius bailloni Red-breasted Toucan 3 It 1 Ramphastos dicolorus Yellow-ridged Toucan 1 C 1 R. culminatus Toco Toucan 10 Ig P C 3 R. toco WOODPECKERS PICIDAE White-wedged Piculet 2 1h P C 1 Picumnus albosquamatus White-barred Piculet 1 1h It 1 P. cirratus Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 14

16 Ochre-collared Piculet 2 1h Ig 1 P. temminckii Campo Flicker 8 Ig P C It 2 Colaptes campestris Green-barred Woodpecker 3 Ig P 1 C. melanochloros White-browed Woodpecker 1 It 1 Piculus aurulentus Blond-crested Woodpecker 2 Ig 1 Celeus flavescens Lineated Woodpecker 1 P 1 Dryocopus lineatus Yellow-tufted Woodpecker 1 C 1 Melanerpes cruentatus Yellow-fronted Woodpecker 4 Ig It 2 M. flavifrons White Woodpecker 2 P 2 M. candidus Little Woodpecker 2 P 1 Veniliornis passerinus White-spotted Woodpecker 2 It 1 V. spilogaster Checkered Woodpecker - 1h C 1 Picoides mixtus Robust Woodpecker 2 Ig It 1 Campephilus robustus WOODCREEPERS DENDROCOLAPTIDAE Thrush-like Woodcreeper 2 2h Ig It 1 Dendrocincla turdina Olivaceous Woodcreeper 7 1h Ig P It 1 Sittasomus griseicapillus White-throated Woodcreeper 3 1h Ig It 1 Xiphocolaptes albicollis Great Rufous Woodcreeper 1 P 1 X. major Planalto Woodcreeper 4 Ig It 1 Dendrocolaptes platyrostris Straight-billed Woodcreeper 1 P 1 Xiphorhynchus picus Buff-throated Woodcreeper 2 P 1 X. guttatus Narrow-billed Woodcreeper 3 1h P C 1 Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Scaled Woodcreeper 1 It 1 L. squamatus Lesser Woodcreeper 3 Ig It 1 L. fuscus Red-billed Scythebill 2 1h P 1 Campylorhamphus trochilirostris Black-billed Scythebill 2 1h It 1 C. falcularius FURNARIIDS FURNARIIDAE Rufous Hornero 10 1h Ig P C It 3 Furnarius rufus Pale-legged Hornero 2 P 1 F. leucopus Wing-banded Hornero 1 It 1 F. figulus Chotoy Spinetail 2 P 1 Schoeniophylax phryganophila Rufous-capped Spinetail 2 2h Ig It 1 Synallaxis ruficapilla Cinereous-breasted Spinetail 1 P 1 S. hypospodia Pale-breasted Spinetail 1 1h C It 1 S. albescens White-lored Spinetail 2 2h P 1 S. albilora Rusty-backed Spinetail 1 1h P 1 Cranioleuca vulpina Pallid Spinetail 2 2h It 1 C. pallida Yellow-chinned Spinetail 5 P It 2 Certhiaxis cinnamomea Plain Thornbird 1 2h P 2 Phacellodomus rufifrons Greater Thornbird 4 P 1 P. ruber Grey-crested Cacholote 2 P 2 Pseudoseisura unirufa White-collared Foliage-Gleaner 2 1h It 1 Anabazenops fuscus Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner 1 2h It 1 Syndactyla rufosuperciliata Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaner 2 Ig 1 Philydor lichtensteini Black-capped Foliage-Gleaner 1 1h Ig It 1 P. atricapillus Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner 1 1h It 1 P. rufus White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner 2 1h Ig 1 Automolus leucophthalmus Sharp-billed Treehunter 1 It 1 Heliobletus contaminatus Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper 1 C 1 Lochmias nematura ANTBIRDS THAMNOPHILIDAE Spot-backed Antshrike 2 Ig 1 Hypoedaleus guttatus Giant Antshrike - 1h It 1 Batara cinerea Tufted Antshrike - 1h Ig 1 Mackenziana severa Great Antshrike 2 2h P 1 Taraba major Barred Antshrike 3 1h P 1 Thamnophilus doliatus Variable Antshrike 2 2h Ig It 1 T. caerulescens Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 15

17 Rufous-winged Antshrike 1 C 1 T. torquatus Plain Antvireo 3 3h Ig P C It 2 Dysithamnus mentalis Spot-breasted Antvireo 1 It 1 D. stictothorax Star-throated Antwren 2 1h It 1 Myrmotherula gularis Rufous-winged Antwren 2 1h Ig 1 Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus Large-billed Antwren 2 1h P C 1 H. longirostris Rusty-backed Antwren 3 P C 1 Formicivora rufa Ferruginous Antbird 3 It 2 Drymophila ferruginea Bertoni's Antbird 2 It 1 D. rubricollis Rufous-tailed Antbird - 1h It 1 D. genei Ochre-rumped Antbird 2 It 1 D. ochropyga Streak-capped Antwren 4 2h Ig It 2 Terenura maculata Mato Grosso Antbird 2 2h P 1 Cercomacra melanaria White-shouldered Fire-eye 2 2h Ig It 1 Pyriglena leucoptera Band-tailed Antbird 2 P 1 Hypocnemoides maculicauda ANTPITTAS, ANTTHRUSHES FORMICARIIDAE Such's Antthrush 1 2h It 1 Chamaeza meruloides Short-tailed Antthrush 1 2h Ig 1 C. campanisoma Brazilian Antthrush - 1h It 1 C. ruficauda Variegated Antpitta - 2h It 1 Grallaria varia GNATEATERS CONOPOPHAGIDAE Rufous Gnateater 2 It 1 Conopophaga lineata TAPACULOS RHINOCRYPTIDAE Collared Crescent-chest 1 C 1 Melanopareia torquata Mouse-coloured Tapaculo - 1h It 1 Scytalopus speluncae COTINGAS COTINGIDAE Black-and-Gold Cotinga - 1h It 1 Tijuca atra Red-ruffed Fruitcrow 1 It 1 Pyroderus scutatus BECARDS TITYRIDAE White-naped Xenopsaris 2 P 1 Xenopsaris albinucha Green-backed Becard 1 P 1 Pachyramphus viridis Chestnut-crowned Becard 3 It 1 P. castaneus Crested Becard 1 It 1 P. validus Black-tailed Tityra 2 Ig P 1 Tityra cayana Masked Tityra 1 C 1 T. semifasciata Black-crowned Tityra 2 Ig 1 T. inquisitor MANAKINS PIPRIDAE Band-tailed Manakin 1 1h Ig C 1 Pipra fasciicauda Helmeted Manakin 3 1h P C 1 Antilophia galatea Swallow-tailed Manakin 3 3h Ig It 1 Chiroxiphia caudata White-bearded Manakin 1 Ig 1 Manacus manacus Fiery-capped Manakin - 2h C 1 Machaeropterus pyrocephalus Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin 1 It 1 Neopelma chrysolophum Black-capped Piprites 1 It 1 Piprites pileatus Pin-tailed Manakin 1 It 1 Ilicura militaris Greenish Manakin 2 1h Ig It 1 Schiffornis virescens FLYCATCHERS TYRANNIDAE Grey Monjita 3 C 1 Xolmis cinerea White-rumped Monjita 3 P 1 X. velata Long-tailed Tyrant 5 Ig It 1 Colonia colonus Streamer-tailed Tyrant 1 P 1 Gubernetes yetapa Crested Black-Tyrant 1 C 1 Knipolegus lophotes Blue-billed Black-Tyrant 1 It 1 K. cyanirostris Black-backed Water-Tyrant 5 P 3 Fluvicola albiventer Masked Water-Tyrant 2 It 1 F. nengeta White-headed Marsh-Tyrant 4 P 3 Arundinicola leucocephala Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 16

18 Vermilion Flycatcher 5 P C 1 Pyrocephalus rubinus Cattle Tyrant 8 Ig P It 3 Machetornis rixosus Sirystes 2 3h Ig P C It 1 Sirystes sibilator Fork-tailed Flycatcher 9 Ig P C It 3 Tyrannus savana Tropical Kingbird 11 Ig P C It 1 T. melancholicus Variegated Flycatcher 1 It 1 Empidonomus varius Piratic Flycatcher 3 3h Ig P It 1 Legatus leucophaius Three-striped Flycatcher 1 Ig 1 Conopias trivirgata Boat-billed Flycatcher 5 Ig P C 1 Megarhynchus pitangua Streaked Flycatcher 5 Ig P 1 Myiodynastes maculatus Rusty-margined Flycatcher 1 P 1 Myiozetetes cayanensis Social Flycatcher 3 Ig It 1 M. similis Great Kiskadee 16 Ig P C It 2 Pitangus sulphuratus Lesser Kiskadee 3 P 1 Philohydor lictor Grey-hooded Attila 1 It 1 Attila rufus Rufous Casiornis 2 P 1 Casiornis rufa Short-crested Flycatcher 4 1h Ig P 1 Myiarchus ferox Brown-Crested Flycatcher 2 P 1 M. tyrannulus Dusky-capped Flycatcher 2 It 1 M. tuberculifer Black-tailed Flycatcher 1 It 1 M. atricaudus Tropical Pewee 1 It 1 Contopus cinereus Euler's Flycatcher 1 2h It 1 Lathrotriccus euleri Fuscous Flycatcher 3 Ig P 1 Cnemotriccus fuscatus Cliff Flycatcher 5 C It 2 Hirundinea ferruginea White-throated Spadebill 2 Ig It 1 Platyrinchus mystaceus Yellow-olive Flycatcher 3 3h P C It 1 Tolmomyias sulphurescens Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher 1 It 1 Todirostrum plumbeiceps Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher 3 1h P C 1 T. latirostre Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher 2 It 1 T. poliocephalum Common Tody-Flycatcher 1 P 1 T. cinereum Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant 1 2h P 1 Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant - 1h It 1 H. orbitatus Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant 1 2h It 1 H. furcatus Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant - 2h Ig It 1 H. diops Brown-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant 1 It 1 H. obsoletus Large-headed Flatbill 1 2h Ig It 1 Ramphotrigon megacephala Yellow Tyrannulet 2 Ig 1 Capsiempis flaveola Southern Bristle-Tyrant - 1h Ig 1 Phylloscartes eximius Serra do Mar Tyrannulet 1h It 1 P. difficilis Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant 1 C 1 Euscarthmus rufomarginatus Yellow-bellied Elaenia 4 Ig P It 1 Elaenia flavogaster Plain-crested Elaenia 3 C 1 E. cristata Lesser Elaenia 1 C 1 E. chiriquensis Forest Elaenia 2 2h P C 1 Myiopagis gaimardii Grey Elaenia 1 Ig 1 M. caniceps Greenish Elaenia 1 Ig 1 M. viridicata Chapada Flycatcher 1 C 1 Suiriri islerorum Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet 4 2h Ig P It 1 Camptostoma obsoletum Planalto Tyrannulet 2 2h Ig P It 1 Phyllomyias fasciatus Greenish Tyrannulet - 1h It 1 P. virescens Rough-legged Tyrannulet 1 2h Ig It 1 P. burmeisteri Grey-capped Tyrannulet 1 1h It 1 P. griseocapilla Sepia-capped Flycatcher 3 2h Ig P It 1 Leptopogon amaurocephalus Ochre-bellied Flycatcher 1 C 1 Mionectes oleagineus Grey-hooded Flycatcher 1 Ig 1 M. rufiventris Southern Antpipit 1 2h Ig C 1 Corythopis delalandi Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 17

19 Eared Pygmy-Tyrant 1 3h Ig It 1 Myiornis auricularis SWALLOWS HIRUNDINIDAE White-winged Swallow 6 Ig P 3 Tachycineta albiventer Brown-chested Martin 8 P C It 2 Progne tapera Grey-breasted Martin 6 Ig P C It 2 P. chalybea Blue-and-white Swallow 3 It 1 Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Southern Rough-winged Swallow 12 Ig P C It 2 Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Tawny-headed Swallow 1 It 1 Alopochelidon fucata Barn Swallow 1 P 1 Hirundo rustica JAYS CORVIDAE Curl-crested Jay 2 C 1 Cyanocorax cristatellus Plush-crested Jay 4 Ig 2 C. chrysops Purplish Jay 5 P C 3 C. cyanomelas WRENS TROGLODYTIDAE Thrush-like Wren 2 3h Ig P C 1 Campylorhynchus turdinus Moustached Wren 1 C 1 Thryothorus genibarbis Buff-breasted Wren 1 1h P 1 T. leucotis House Wren 6 1h Ig It 1 Troglodytes aedon Black-capped Donacobius 6 Ig P 2 Donacobius atricapillus MOCKINGBIRDS STURNIDAE Chalk-browed Mockingbird 7 Ig P C It 3 Mimus saturninus THRUSHES TURDIDAE Yellow-legged Thrush 3 It 1 Platycichla flavipes Eastern Slaty-Thrush 1 It 1 Turdus subalaris Rufous-bellied Thrush 10 Ig P C It 2 T. rufiventris Pale-breasted Thrush 6 Ig C 2 T. leucomelas Creamy-bellied Thrush 2 Ig P 1 T. amaurochalinus GNATCATCHERS POLIOPTILIDAE Masked Gnatcatcher 3 1h P 1 Polioptila dumicola PIPITS MOTACILLIDAE Yellowish Pipit 1 P 1 Anthus lutescens VIREOS VIREONIDAE Rufous-browed Peppershrike 3 2h P C It 1 Cyclarhis gujanensis Red-eyed Vireo 3 Ig C 1 Vireo olivaceus Rufous-crowned Greenlet 2 2h Ig It 1 Hylophilus poicilotis Ashy-headed Greenlet 1 1h P 1 H. pectoralis ICTERIDS ICTERIDAE Shiny Cowbird 5 Ig P It 3 Molothrus bonariensis Screaming Cowbird 1 P 1 M. rufoaxillaris Bay-winged Cowbird 4 P 3 M. badius Giant Cowbird 4 Ig P 1 Scaphidura oryzivora Crested Oropendola 3 P 1 Psarocolius decumanus Yellow-rumped Cacique 7 P C 2 Cacicus cela Red-rumped Cacique 7 Ig It 3 C. haemorrhous Golden-winged Cacique 1 It 1 C. chrysopterus Solitary Cacique 3 P 1 C. solitarius Chopi Blackbird 7 1h Ig P C It 3 Gnorimopsar chopi Chestnut-capped Blackbird 1 It 2 Agelaius ruficapillus Unicolored Blackbird 5 P 3 A. cyanopus Epaulet Oriole 3 Ig P 1 Icterus cayanensis Campo Oriole 4 P 1 I. jamacaii Scarlet-headed Blackbird 3 P 1 Amblyramphus holosericeus White-browed Blackbird 1 P 1 Leistes superciliaris WOOD WARBLERS PARULIDAE Tropical Parula 4 Ig P 1 Parula pitiayumi Masked Yellowthroat 2 Ig C 1 Geothlypis aequinoctialis Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 18

20 Flavescent Warbler 1 1h P 1 Basileuterus flaveolus Golden-crowned Warbler 7 Ig It 2 B. culicivorus White-bellied Warbler 1 C 1 B. hypoleucus White-rimmed Warbler 1 It 1 B. leucoblepharus Neotropical River Warbler - 1h Ig 1 Phaeothlypis rivularis EMBERIZIDS EMBERIZIDAE Bananaquit 8 Ig P It 1 Coereba flaveola Chestnut-vented Conebill 3 Ig P 2 Conirostrum speciosum Blue Dacnis 8 Ig C It 1 Dacnis cayana Swallow Tanager 9 Ig C It 2 Tersina viridis Blue-naped Chlorophonia 5 Ig It 2 Chlorophonia cyanea Purple-throated Euphonia 1 1h Ig P 1 Euphonia chlorotica Thick-billed Euphonia 1 Ig 1 E. laniirostris Violaceous Euphonia 3 Ig 2 E. violacea Chestnut-bellied Euphonia 5 1h Ig It 2 E. pectoralis Fawn-breasted Tanager 2 It 1 Pipraeidea melanonota Green-headed Tanager 5 Ig It 3 Tangara seledon Burnished-buff Tanager 2 C It 1 T. cayana Brassy-breasted Tanager 3 It 1 T. desmaresti Diademed Tanager 1 It 2 Stephanophorus diadematus Golden-chevroned Tanager 4 It 3 Thraupis ornata Sayaca Tanager 13 Ig P C It 3 T. sayaca Palm Tanager 4 P C 2 T. palmarum Silver-beaked Tanager 7 P C 2 Ramphocelus carbo Lowland Hepatic-Tanager 2 C 1 Piranga flava Olive-green Tanager 3 It 3 Orthogonys chloricterus `Red-crowned Ant-Tanager 2 1h Ig It 1 Habia rubica Ruby-crowned Tanager 4 Ig It 2 Tachyphonus coronatus Grey-headed Tanager 1 P 1 Eucometis penicillata Black-goggled Tanager 4 1h Ig It 2 Trichothraupis melanops White-rumped Tanager 3 C 2 Cypsnagra hirundinacea Guira Tanager 1 Ig 1 Hemithraupis guira Rufous-headed Tanager 2 It 1 H. ruficapilla Brown Tanager 1 It 1 Orchesticus abeillei White-banded Tanager 1 C 1 Neothraupis fasciata Magpie Tanager 5 1h Ig It 2 Cissopis leveriana Blue-and-Yellow Tanager 1 Ig 1 Thraupis bonariensis Black-faced Tanager 2 C 1 Schistoclamys melanopis Buff-throated Saltator 1 C 1 Saltator maximus Greyish Saltator 5 P 2 S. coerulescens Green-winged Saltator 2 3h Ig It 1 S. similis Thick-billed Saltator 1 It 1 S. maxillosus Black-throated Saltator 3 C 2 S. atricollis Red-crested Cardinal 1 P 1 Paroaria coronata Yellow-billed Cardinal 6 Ig P 3 P. capitata Black-throated Grosbeak - 1h Ig 1 Pityllus fuliginosus Yellow-billed Blue Finch 1 C 1 Porphyrospiza caerulescens Blue-black Grassquit 5 P C It 2 Volatinia jacarina Sooty Grassquit 1 It 1 Tiaris fuliginosa Temminck's Seedeater 2 1h Ig It 1 Sporophila falcirostris Plumbeous Seedeater 1 C 1 Sporophila plumbea Rusty-collared Seedeater 4 P 2 S. collaris Double-collared Seedeater 3 C It 1 S. caerulescens White-bellied Seedeater 2 P It 1 S. leucoiptera Buffy-fronted Seedeater 1 It 1 S. frontalis Lesser Seedfinch 3 P 1 Oryzoborus angolensis Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 19

21 Saffron Finch 9 Ig P C It 3 Sicalis flaveola Uniform Finch 3 It 3 Haplospiza unicolor Coal-crested Finch 2 C 1 Charitospiza eucosma Red-crested Finch 2 P 1 Coryphospingus cucullatus Saffron-billed Sparrow - 1h C 1 Arremon flavirostris Grassland Sparrow 4 P C 1 Ammodramus humeralis Rufous-collared Sparrow 6 It Ig 3 Zonotrichia capensis Bay-chested Warbling-Finch 1 It 3 Poospiza thoracica Red-rumped Warbling-Finch 1 It 3 P. lateralis SPARROWS PASSERIDAE House Sparrow 13 1h Ig P C It 2 Passer domesticus MAMMALS Silvery Marmoset 1 2h P 1 Callithrix argentata Masked Titi Monkey - 2h It 1 Callicebus personatus Black Howler Monkey 1 P 1 Alouatta caraya Brown Capuchin 3 Ig P 2 Cebus apella Guianan Squirrel 3 It 1 Sciurus aestuans Capybara 5 P 3 Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris Azara's Agouti 4 Ig P 1 Dasyprocta azarae Crab-eating Fox 2 P 1 Cerdocyon thous Tayra 2 P 1 Eira barbata Marsh Deer 4 P 2 Blastocercus dichotomous Red Brocket Deer 3 P 1 Mazama americana Collared Peccary 1 Ig 1 Tayassu pecari Jaguar 2 P 1 Panthera onca South American Coati 5 Ig P 3 Nasua nasua Puma 1 P 1 Felis concolor Pampas Deer 2 C 1 Ozotoceros bezoarticus Paraguayan Caiman were seen in the Pantanal, Broad-snouted Caiman at Iguaçu and a Tegu in Itatiaia. These lists represent those birds and other animals seen by party members of this tour. Ornitholidays Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 20

22 Black-hooded Parakeet, Pantanal Blue-winged Macaw, Chapada dos Guimaraes Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Pantanal Red-billed Scythebill, Pantanal Green-headed Tanager White-throated Hummingbird White-rumped Monjita, Pantanal White-naped Xenopsaris, Pantanal Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 21

23 Rusty-backed Antwren, Chapada Helmeted Manakin, Chapada Surucua Trogon, Itatiaia Great Rufous Woodcreeper, Pantanal Pearl Kite, Chapada Iguaçu Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Pantanal Undulated Tinamous, Pantanal Front cover: Jaguar Photographs Colin Bushell Ornitholidays Tour to Brazil September 2008 Page 22