REMOTE AMAZONIAN BRAZIL

Transcription

1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Remote Amazonian Brazil REMOTE AMAZONIAN BRAZIL Carajás & Caxiuana Saturday 4th September Sunday 19th September 2010 (16 days) Amazonia National Park Extension to Saturday 25th September (6 days) Leader: Luciano Naka Group Size Limit: 8 Endless rivers, myriads of sounds, never-ending forests, teeming with wildlife. Very few places on the planet will raise as many expectations as the Amazon. Tinamous, trumpeters, trogons, jacamars, macaws, puffbirds, toucanets, antbirds, antpittas, cotingas, manakins, tanagers, honeycreepers Nowhere else on earth has nature attained such a high complexity of living forms, where different species are so closely interconnected, one to another. Every morning a dozen species of birds will listen to the call of their leader and will rush to form the permanent understorey mixed-species flocks. Swarms of army-ants will be followed daily by professional antfollower birds, which feed on the insects flushed by the White-tailed Cotinga (Nik Borrow) voracious ants. Huge trees and their vines will offer juicy fruits and delicate flowers to an amazing set of obligate frugivores and nectarivores. This is daily life in the Amazon. However, the most exceptional characteristic of the Amazon basin is the pattern of bird distributions, which still represents the most impressive and yet unresolved dilemmas for past and present biologists. Apparently similar types of forests differ drastically in their species composition on different sides of the main Amazonian rivers. This means that, for many birds, rivers such as the Amazon, Branco, Negro, Madeira and Tapajós, represent unsurpassable barriers. Therefore, for anyone seriously interested in the Neotropical avifauna, a single trip to the Amazon will simply not do. Remote Amazonian Brazil is a tour suitable both for the beginner in the Amazon, and for those more experienced and well-travelled veterans. While Amazonian Brazil focuses on the avifauna of the Rio Negro and the Guianan Shield, this trip targets in particular those species restricted to the south bank of the Amazon, but specially the many species of birds restricted to the east of the Madeira and Tapajós rivers. Remote Amazonian Brazil is a journey for those who want to seek out some marvellous and rarely seen Amazonian specialities, including a number of recently described species, many highly divergent subspecies and most of the Amazonian bird species endemic to Brazil. This tour will take us to the very heart of the Amazon, to some of the least visited and yet unexplored areas of South America, yet it still takes advantage of good accommodations, including a comfortable hotel set in the middle of a huge forest reserve at Carajás and a luxurious research station providing comfort to local and foreign biologists at Caxiuana. Our first stop will be in Brasilia, Brazil s modern but relatively calm capital city. Brasilia offers some great birding opportunities, and by visiting some well protected areas in the outskirts of the city, we will have a good introduction to the cerrado (the Brazilian term for open savannas). Most species recorded here will not be seen during the rest of the trip, so for a day we will be busy looking for open-habitat specialities, such as Redlegged Seriema, but also for the many gems that are well hidden in the gallery forests, including the highly localized Planalto Foliage-gleaner and White-striped Warbler. From Brasilia we will fly to Belém at the mouth of the Amazon and then make our way to Carajás, situated in the southeastern part of Amazonia, located between two biogeographically important rivers: the Xingu and the Tocantins. The Serra dos Carajás consists of a series of low forested hills rising from the lowlands and harbours a unique and rich avifauna including the recently described Cryptic Forest-Falcon, the localized White-crested Guan, Pearly and Painted Parakeets, Gould s Toucanet, the recently-described Carajás Woodcreeper, Chestnutthroated Spinetail, Peruvian Recurvebill, the recentlysplit Pará Foliage-gleaner, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Chestnut-belted and Blackbellied Gnateaters, and several species of spectacular cotingas, including Whitetailed Cotinga, as well as an isolated population of White

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Remote Amazonian Brazil Bellbird. Carajás is also among the best places to find other very seldom-seen and highly localized species, such as the Fiery-tailed Awlbill, Silky-tailed Nightjar, Blackchested and Black-and-white Tody-Tyrants, and Blackish Pewee. From Carajás we will travel to a scientific station at Caxiuana, which harbours scientists from around the globe. To get to this remote site, located near the mouth of the Xingu River, we will take a small plane and a boat. Caxiuana has an excellent grid of trails, as well as many bug-free black-water rivers which we will visit using small speedboats. Caxiuana also has three canopy towers built in the middle of the forest for canopy research. We will have access to these, and enjoy a privileged view from the top of this endless green world. Caxiuana is the place to see one of the most special and spectacular birds of Brazil, the Golden Parakeet, which can usually be seen from the camp. Other interesting birds that can be Harpy Eagle (Nik Borrow) seen at this site include the odd-looking Vulturine Parrot and several large raptors, such as Black-and-white and Ornate Hawk-Eagles, and even Harpy Eagle. As we walk through the forest, it is not rare to encounter large flocks of Dark-winged Trumpeters, several species of macaw, interesting species such as the recently described Brigida s Woodcreeper and an amazing array of antbirds, including Glossy Antshrike, Natterer s Slaty-Antshrike, Banded Antbird, and Whitebacked Fire-eye. Tanagers and honeycreepers are abundant and from the canopy towers we shall have excellent views of many of them, and possibly even the rarely seen Whitewinged Potoo. The grid system at Caxiuana will provide us with an excellent way to work the understorey mixed-species flocks, and we shall put in a special effort to see every single species that participates in the flocks. The optional extension will involve a visit to a modest visitor centre with simple accommodation situated alongside the Tapajós River inside Amazonia National Park. However, the word modest ends at the centre, as this park represents one of the largest reserves on our planet (almost 1,000,000 hectares of primary terra firme forest!) and one of the best areas to see a great number of specialties restricted to the Madeira- Tapajós interfluvium. This park is also known for having one of the best chances in South America to see Jaguar or Puma. This pristine reserve has, among other things, more woodcreepers than any other place in the world (19 species), over 60 species of tyrant flycatchers, 51 species of antbirds, and 18 species of furnariids! Among the many jewels present in the park, some are of particular interest, including Whitecrested Guan, Brown-chested Barbet, Uniformed, Hoffman s and Elegant Woodcreepers, Sclater s and Ihering s Antwrens, and two of the rarest and most poorly-known birds of Amazonia, Harlequin and Pale-faced Antbirds, as well as the cute and localized Snow-capped Manakin. This unusual tour will also provide great opportunities for seeing other wildlife, and we might well see over ten different species of monkeys, including the rarely-seen White-nosed Bearded Saki and some delightful-looking, tassel-eared marmosets. Birdquest has operated tours to Amazonian Brazil since Itinerary Day 1 Evening flight from London bound for Brasilia Day 2 Morning arrival at Brasilia, where we will stay overnight at a lovely hotel in the outskirts of the city, an establishment surrounded by well protected areas of cerrado and excellent forested grounds. Here we will be in contact with a good variety of cerrado and a sprinkling of Atlantic rainforest birds, most of which are not likely to be seen during the rest of the tour. Cerrado is the Brazilian term for open savannas, and this habitat covers most of central Brazil, northern Paraguay and eastern Bolivia, and includes an amazing variety of specialities. We will only have about a day here, but this should be enough to obtain a flavour of this rich habitat. We will be pay special attention to the gallery forest, where we will be concentrating on finding three highly localized but rarely seen species: Planalto and Chestnut-capped Foliage-gleaners, and Whitestriped Warbler. We may well also find Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Planalto and Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, White-eyed Foliage-gleaner, Variable Antshrike, Blackcapped Antwren, Rufous Gnateater, Rusty-breasted Nunlet and Gray-hooded Flycatcher in this habitat. In addition, we are sure to see a great array of open-habitat birds during our short visit to Brasilia. It will be a busy time, during which we could see, among other things, Roadside Hawk, White-tailed Kite, Yellow-headed and Southern Crested Caracaras, Aplomado Falcon, American Kestrel, the remarkable Redlegged Seriema, hundreds of Southern Lapwings, Picazuro and Pale-vented Pigeons, Ruddy Ground-Dove, the cute Scaled Dove, Yellowchevroned and Peach-fronted Parakeets, Turquoise-fronted and Yellow-faced Parrots, the odd-looking Guira Cuckoo, Squirrel Cuckoo, Smoothbilled Ani, Burrowing Owl, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Toco Toucan, White-wedged Piculet, Campo Flicker, Green-barred Woodpecker, Rufous Hornero, Ochrecheeked Spinetail, Forktailed Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird, Great Kiskadee, Blue-and-white Swallow, House Wren, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Chivi Vireo, White-bellied and Flavescent Warblers, Gray-

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Remote Amazonian Brazil Black-bellied Gnateater (Nik Borrow) headed, White-lined, and Sayaca Tanagers, Bananaquit, Blue-black Grassquit, Grassland, Rufous-collared and Saffron-billed Sparrows, Stripe-tailed Yellow Finch, Green-winged Saltator and Shiny Cowbird. Day 3 After some early morning birding in Brasilia we will take a late morning flight to the city of Belém, situated near the mouth of the mighty Amazon. From there we will drive southwards, deep into the interior, to Carajás for a five nights stay. Our comfortable hotel is located in a small mining town amidst pristine forests. Days 4-7 Carajás is a special place, seldom visited by birders, scientists or tourists. Access to this area is highly regulated and the good environmental conditions of the mining company are otherwise unheard of in Brazil. Several wide (but seldom used) roads will give us access to many areas, ideal for long and comfortable walks. A number of habitats can be reached within the reserve, including terra firme forest, varzea forest and a few areas with open low shrub and grasslands called canga. This mixture makes Carajás one of the most species-rich sites in Brazil. We shall spend nearly four days at Carajás, walking along some of the hundreds of miles of almost deserted roads through tall forests, and visiting the open areas for a special group of birds. Throughout our stay we shall start working our way in the dark, just before dawn. At this time we are likely to hear a myriad of new sounds, including the songs of Gray and Variegated Tinamous (or Small-billed and Tataupa Tinamous in open areas), forest-falcons and guans. We shall make a special effort to attract the recently described Cryptic Forest-Falcon with our tape. Once the day brakes, we will have plenty of time to locate the seldom-seen Whitecrested Guan, as well as flocks of Speckled Chachalacas and even the secretive Darkwinged Trumpeter. Greater Yellow-headed Vultures, King Vultures and White Hawks will be soaring overhead while Bat Falcons, Red-throated Caracaras, Scaled and Ruddy Pigeons and White-thighed Swallows should be seen along the road. A number of parrots will seen flying over or perched, including Scarlet, Red-and-green and Chestnut-fronted Macaws, Pearly and Painted Parakeets (the former a very localized species), as well as Vulturine, Blue-headed, Yellow-crowned, Mealy and Red-fan Parrots. Swifts will be cruising the skies in large numbers, and we will see such species as Band-rumped, Gray-rumped, Chapman s and Short-tailed. Hummingbirds will be visiting the flowers, where we will look for Great-billed Hermit, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Black-eared Fairy, Long-billed Starthroat and even the rarely seen Fiery-tailed Awlbill. Trogons are abundant and the possibilities include as many as four different species (White-tailed, Violaceous, Collared and Black-tailed). Blue-crowned Motmots will certainly be heard, but our attention should be concentrated on locating the lovely Striolated and Collared Puffbirds. Along the roads we can also spot many jacamars, including Brown, Blue-cheeked, Rufous-tailed and Great. Fruiting trees will help us locate several species of obligate frugivores, such as Channel-billed and Cuvier s Toucans, Gould s Toucanet, and Lettered and Blacknecked Aracaris. Woodpeckers will be drumming all around us, and we will probably see about ten different species, such as Bar-breasted Piculet and Yellow-tufted, Redstained, White-throated, Yellow-throated, Waved, Chestnut, Lineated, Rednecked, and Crimson-crested Woodpeckers. Although ovenbirds are not a notable feature of terra firme forests, there is an interesting set of them to be seen in Carajás (including some restricted to open habitats). Among these are Ochrecheeked, Sooty-fronted, Palebreasted, Plain-crowned, and Chestnut-throated Spinetails, the highly desired Point-tailed Palmcreeper, the localized Peruvian Recurvebill and the recently split Pará Foliagegleaner. These forests are also good for woodcreepers and we will be listening for the calls of species such as Cinnamon-throated, Lineated, and Lafresnaye s Woodcreepers (recently split from Buff-throated), as well as the recently-described Carajás Woodcreeper (sometimes considered a well-marked subspecies of Strong-billed Woodcreeper). While walking through the forest we are likely to hear four species of ground antbirds: Rufous-capped and Black-faced Antthrushes and Variegated and Amazonian Antpittas. Apart from these birds, the floor of the forest is also inhabited by two gems: Chestnut-belted Gnateater (here a well marked subspecies) and Black-bellied Gnateater (probably the most spectacular bird in the genus). Wide roads are an excellent way to look for cotingas, and, as we shall find out during the trip, Carajás has no fewer than eight species of them, including truly stunning creatures such as Screaming Piha, Bare-necked and Purple-throated Fruitcrows, Purple-breasted and Spangled Cotingas, and the restrictedranged White-tailed Cotinga. Manakins also rule these woods, and here we can see Band-tailed and Red-headed Manakins, although we shall have to work at finding the highly localized Opalcrowned Manakin. We will certainly hear Blue-backed Manakin and Dwarf Tyrant- Manakin, which, although difficult to see, can give pretty amazing views once located. Among all the birds of Carajás, possibly the most secretive and special of them all is the poorly-known Black-chested Tyrant, and so we shall work hard to track it down. Blackand-white Tody-Tyrant also occurs in the area and should make an appearance during our stay. Another special bird that we shall make a particular effort to see is the Blackish Pewee, a bird known from only a few localities in the Neotropics, which has a small population in Carajás. Other birds we may well see in Carajás include the monotypic and rather weird Sharpbill, Thrush-like Schiffornis, Coraya, and Buff-breasted Wrens, the highly vocal Southern Nightingale-Wren (one of those birds that you might prefer to hear than see!), Long-billed and Guianan Gnatcatchers, Gray-chested and Dusky-capped Vireos, Red-billed Pied-Tanager and Magpie, Guira, Whiteshouldered, White-lined and Flame-crested Tanagers, Blue-

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Remote Amazonian Brazil Golden Parakeets (Nik Borrow) black Grosbeak, and Saffronbilled and Pectoral Sparrows. Fruiting Cecropias along the roads should also attract other very colourful species, such as Paradise, Spotted, and Masked Tanagers, as well as Purple-throated, Violaceous, White-lored, and Rufousbellied Euphonias. We shall also see a number of members of the blackbird family, including Epaulet Oriole, Red-rumped and Yellowrumped Caciques, and Crested Oropendola. Open areas will add to our already large bird list, producing common and widespread species such as Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Dusky-capped, Short-crested, Boat-billed, Rusty-margined, Dusky-chested, Variegated, Crowned Slaty and Piratic Flycatchers, White-throated Kingbird, Grey-breasted Martin, Southern Roughwinged Swallow, and Silverbeaked and Palm Tanagers. At dusk we shall look out for Short-tailed Nighthawk, Pauraque and Blackish Nightjar, while once darkness comes we will search for the secretive Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl. Day 8 Some final birding this morning will complete our overdose of highly-localized, poorly-known and recentlydescribed species before we return to Belém for an overnight stay. Day 9 An early morning flight will take us to the small town of Breves, from where we will catch the research station s boat to Caxiuana National Forest for a four nights stay. During our boat ride we are likely to see many waterbirds, including Neotropic Cormorant, Anhinga, Capped, Cocoi and Striated Herons, Great and Snowy Egrets, Wattled Jacana, Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns, Ringed Kingfisher and White-winged Swallow. We will arrive in time for some initial exploration. Days Once we reach the remote forests of Caxiuana, we shall spend four days at this lovely place, enjoying the wonderful ambiance of a research station while staying in real comfort. The station has an excellent grid of trails used by scientist to monitor the fauna and flora. We shall use these well-maintained trails to look for forest interior and other elusive bird species. Our main target at Caxiuana will be to find and enjoy the beautiful Golden Parakeet, a species that is relatively common here. The canopy towers at Caxiuana will be a good place to see this parakeet, as well as many other species of parrots, including various macaws, Golden-winged Parakeet, and Orange-winged and Dusky Parrots. Among other spectacular species we will probably see are White-necked Puffbird and red-necked Aracari. Brigida s Woodcreeper (a recently described species) was first found in Caxiuana, and we will make particular efforts to locate it. The grid of trails is ideal for locating forest-interior birds such as antbirds and antpitta, and of these the very seldom seen Spotted and Thrush-like Antpittas will be our main goals. Our walks through the shaded understorey should be rewarded with good views of Natterer s Slaty-Antshrike and White-backed Fire-eye, as well as Banded, Black-faced, Warbling and Spot-winged Antbirds. The grids are also a great place to find and keep up with understorey mixed-species flocks and we should see each permanent member of these flocks: Spix s Woodcreeper, Cinereous Antshrike, White-eyed, White-flanked, Long-winged, and Gray Antwrens, Rufousrumped and Pará Foliagegleaners, Tawny-crowned Greenlet and White-winged Shrike-Tanager. Once we lose interest in the flocks, we will still have time to search out other forest understorey birds such the spectacular Guianan Red-Cotinga and Yellowmargined, Ochre-bellied, and McConnell s Flycatchers, as well as the elusive Whiteeyed and Zimmer s Tody- Tyrants. From the towers we shall focus our attention on birds that are very hard to see from the ground, such as Pygmy Antwren, Whitetailed Cotinga, Slender-footed Tyrannulet, Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant, Grey-crowned Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Dusky-capped Greenlet, Slaty-capped Shrike- Vireo, Red-billed Pied and Blue-backed Tanagers, Whitevented and Golden-sided Euphonia, Black-faced, and Blue Dacnises, and Green, Short-billed, Purple and Redlegged Honeycreepers, as well as the energetic Guianan Gnatcatcher. There is even a fair chance of spotting the magnificent Harpy Eagle, as well as other raptors. A set of different birds can be seen along the riverine habitats we will explore by boat, including the magnificent Agami Heron, Least Bittern (an isolated form), Green Ibis, the spectacular Crimson Topaz, Striped Woodcreeper, the spectacular Glossy Antshrike, Black-chinned, Silvered and Dot-backed Antbirds, the elusive Snethlage s Tody- Tyrant, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Lesser Kiskadee, Chestnut-crowned Becard, Masked Tityra and Amazonian Oropendola, among others. Day 13 After some final birding in Caxiuana we will take our boat back to Breves for an overnight stay. Day 14 Today we will return by air to Belém for an overnight stay. Depending on flight schedules, we will go birding around Breves or Belém. Day 15 Morning flight to Brasilia where you connect with a late afternoon flight bound for London. Day 16 Morning arrival at London. Amazonia National Park Extension Itinerary Day 15 From Belem we take a morning flight to Itaituba. From here we will drive to Amazonia National Park for a five nights stay. Days Amazonia National Park is one of the largest tropical forest reserves on earth, and we will have four full days to explore this rich area. Almost 400 species of birds have been recorded within the boundaries of the park. A number of abandoned roads and easy trails are available for birding, and we shall make good use of these as we explore large areas of pristine forest. Hunting activities within

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Remote Amazonian Brazil the park are minimal, so Speckled Chachalacas are common here, but we will have to be lucky to see White-crested Guan. As at Carajás and Caxiuana, this park is excellent for raptors (including Harpy and Crested Eagle) and parrots (up to 18 species have been recorded, including Blue-and-yellow and Red-bellied Macaws). While walking through the understorey we should see Needle-billed Hermit, several species of trogons, Broad-billed and Rufous Motmots, Rusty-breasted Nunlet, Collared and Spotted Puffbirds, White-fronted and Black-fronted Nunbirds, Brown-chested Barbet, Scale-breasted Woodpecker, Strong-billed, Ocellated, Elegant, Uniformed and Hoffman s Woodcreepers, Striped Woodhaunter, Chestnut-billed Hookbill, Chestnut-winged and Buffthroated Foliage-gleaners, and White-shouldered, Black-capped, Amazonian, Spot-winged and Saturnine Antshrikes. Banded and Ferruginous-backed Antbirds can be seen walking slowly on the ground, and Scalebacked and Spot-backed Antbirds keep low in the understorey, while Dotwinged and Ash-winged Antwrens forage intensively in the canopy and midstorey. There are other antwrens in these forests as well, most importantly Sclater s, Plain-throated and Ornate. A major goal of our walks will be to find an antswarm, as this would be our only chance of finding some of the most special birds present in the park: Harlequin and Pale-faced Antbirds, as well as Blackspotted Bare-eye. Our stay in Amazonia National Park will also be our last chance for Variegated and Amazonian Antpittas, and Black-bellied and Chestnutbellied Gnateaters. The only tapaculo of the Amazon is also present in these forests, but we will need patience in order to see the elusive Rusty-belted Tapaculo. The localized Snow-capped Manakin will also be among our most desired goals. Some of the interesting tyrants present in the park include Yellowbrowed Tody-Flycatcher, Striped-necked and Zimmer s Tody-Tyrants, Helmeted and Short-tailed Pygmy- Tyrants, Forest Elaenia, White-lored Tyrannulet and Ringed Antpipit. Tanagers and honeycreepers are also abundant, and here we have a chance for the rare Dotted Tanager. We shall also be listening out for the magical song of the Musician Wren. At least one nightbird excursion should reward us with some owls, with possibilities including Ferruginous and Amazonian Pygmy-Owls, and Spectacled and Crested Owls. Day 20 Today we will return to Itaituba and catch a flight to Belém for an overnight stay. Day 21 Morning flight to Brasilia where we connect with a late afternoon flight bound for London. Day 22 Morning arrival at London. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of normal Birdquest standard throughout the main tour. At Amazonia National Park, during the extension, the visitor centre is simple but perfectly adequate and bathroom facilities may be shared. Road transport is by minibus. Walking: The walking ranges from easy to moderate. Most walks, some of which are moderately long, are on the flat, but there are one or two short but steep sections. Climate: It is generally hot and humid. Periods of sunshine alternate with overcast spells and there is regular rainfall. Bird Photography: Opportunities are worthwhile. Tour Price: 4030, 4755, $6650 London/London (or 2860, 3375, $4719 Brasilia/Belém). Extension: 1260, 1487, $2079. Price includes all transportation (including all flights), all accommodations, all meals, bottled water, some drinks, all excursions, all entrance fees, all tips for local drivers/guides and for accommodations/restaurants, leader services. Single Room Supplement: 234, 276, $386. Extension: 108, 127, $178. Deposit: 410, 484, $677. Extension: 130, 153, $215. If booking more than 12 months before departure, the initial deposit is only 150, 177, $248.