CUBA March 29 to April

Transcription

1 CUBA March 29 to April Cuba is a fantastic birding destination, and a good example of a country where it is very easy to travel about on your own. The birds are largely easy to find and to identify, 31 are endemic, the highways are empty, the people are friendly, there are good to great places to stay, and the weather is fine at this time of year. The temperature actually peaked at 36C, which was a little too hot for me. To see all the birds it is necessary to stay at only four locations, with two nights each at San Diego de los Baños, Cayo Coco, and Camagüey and four nights at Zapata. The most expensive item was the car hire, which was 440 for 10 days, plus over 200 to pay for insurance upon our arrival. Had we been able to travel a few weeks earlier the airfare would have been 150 cheaper. The itinerary, the hotels, the casa, the car hire and the guides were all arranged by Andy Mitchell, who also told us where to find the more difficult species and his detailed notes enabled us to drive around Cuba without getting lost. He is thoroughly recommended and his adress is: andy@witsend.freeserve.co.uk March 29. Arr Havana drive 120 km (2 hrs) to Hotel Mirador, San Diego de los Baños. B&B. March 30. AM La Guira. Lunch/siesta at Hotel. PM Return to La Guira. Overnight Hotel Mirador, San Diego de los Baños. B&B. March 31. Drive 637km (9 hrs) to Cayo Coco with stops en route. Overnight Hotel Tryp. All inclusive (inc drinks). April 1. Birding on Cayo Coco. Wild Boar Cave Area, Flamingo Beach. Cayo Guillermo. Cayo Paredon Grande. Overnight Hotel Tryp. All inclusive (inc drinks). April 2. Morning birding on Cayo Paredon Grande and then drive 209km (3hrs) to Camagüey. Overnight at Hotel Camagüey. B&B. April 3. Birding at Najasa. Overnight at Hotel Camagüey. B&B. April 4. Drive to Playa Larga 415 km (5hrs). Overnight at casa.. B&B + eve meal. April 5. Birding in Zapata. Overnight at casa particulare. B&B + eve meal. April 6. Birding in Zapata. Overnight at casa particulare. B&B + eve meal. April 7. Birding in Zapata. Overnight at casa particulare. B&B + eve meal. April 8. Morning birding in Zapata then leave for Havana Airport 120km (3 hrs) for 1910 departure. April 9. Arr LGW March We flew from London Gatwick at 1135, arriving in Havana at It was a good flight with Virgin, but they seem to give the minimum possible in food and drinks. Upon arrival we went through Cuban immigration very quickly and easily, but the bags took a considerable time to arrive. It took about 30 minutes to sort out our hire car, then we set off on our two-hour journey to San Diego de los Baños. Very soon it began to rain extremely heavily, forcing us and many other cars to shelter under a bridge, where we waited until the rain had nearly stopped and the visibility had improved. We found our hotel without much difficulty and had fried chicken before we retired. March After our 0730 breakfast we drove to La Guira and had a great mornings birding. Three Broadwinged Hawks and three American Kestrels were the only birds of prey. One Mourning and six Zenaida Doves, four incredible-looking Great Lizard-cuckoos, 15 Smooth-billed Anis, 2 Cuban Emeralds (the commoner of the two hummingbirds), five endemic Cuban Trogons, three endemic

2 Cuban Todies, eight West Indian and four endemic Cuban Green Woodpeckers, two Crescenteyed Pewees, 15 La Sagra s Flycatchers, four Loggerhead and six Grey Kingbirds, six endemic Cuban Martins (some entering holes in the limestone cliffs), many Red-legged Thrushes, six Grey Catbirds, five Northern Mockingbirds, Cuban Vireo (heard only), 12 Black-whiskered Vireos, one Black-throated Green, three Palm Warblers and three American Redstarts kept us busy in the first few hours and were a great introduction to Cuban birdwatching. Twelve endemic Yellow-headed Warblers looked alot brighter than the pictures of them in the book. Ten Olivecapped Warblers, a near endemic, that we would only see at this locality, were feeding high above searching for insects on the needles of the pine trees. Some came down to the ground to collect nesting material and were then seen much better. The endemic Cuban Solitaire is the other species that was only seen at La Guira, and four were seen well. Other birds seen were six Red-legged Honeycreepers, 25 Western Spindalises, six Cuban Bullfinches, 20 Yellow-faced Grassquits, three Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds, five endemic Cuban Blackbirds, ten Greater Antillean Grackles and five introduced House Sparrows. By 1300 it was already becoming quite hot and we were back at our hotel by After a meal we took a short rest then returned to La Guira, but only saw a few new species, all of the important ones having been seen in the morning. March We had breakfast at 0700, and checked out at We negotiated the Havana ring-road without any mishaps. Few birds were seen on the journey but there was a Crested Caracara, six American Coot, three Mourning and five Zenaida Doves, six Smooth-billed Anis, many Cave Swallows and 20 Antillean Palm Swifts (at the petrol station a few kilometres north of the airport), one Tawny-shouldered Blackbird, ten Greater Antillean Grackles and five House Sparrows. This was our longest drive, and it took nearly nine hours before we reached our next hotel at Cayo Coco. From the causeway we saw three Greater Flamingoes, one Spotted Sandpiper, 15 Laughing Gulls and three Royal Terns. By the time we arrived we were tired, so did not go birding. April We took breakfast at 0700 and then drove to the Wild Boar Cave. Around the carpark and trails there were three Cuban Emeralds, six Cuban Green Woodpeckers, six Red-legged Thrushes, six Grey Catbirds, 25 Northern Mockingbirds, one Cuban and four Black-whiskered Vireos, a good selection of wintering American warblers, including, Northern Parula, two Cape May, two Black-throated Blue, two Black-throated Green, one Yellow-throated, two Prairie, three Palm, one American Redstart, five Ovenbirds and one Northern Waterthrush. There were several other interesting species, including the endemic Oriente Warbler, of which we saw six, and two endemic Zapata Sparrows of the local race varonai, which were seen very well. There were also 20 White-crowned Pigeons, two White-winged, two Zenaida, two Mourning Doves and four Common Ground-doves, one Greater Lizard-cuckoo, three Crescent-eyed Pewees, ten Loggerhead Kingbirds, ten Western Spindalises, two Cuban Bullfinches, one Yellow-faced Grassquit, 15 Greater Antillean Grackles, and a Cuban Oriole. When the first trainload of noisy but friendly tourists arrived at around 1030, we moved on to Flamingo Beach. This was less rewarding and after 45 minutes we moved on to Cayo Guillermo. Some large pools on each side of the road contained many herons and waders and we saw Tricoloured, Green, Great Blue and Little Blue Herons, Great and Reddish Egrets, three Roseate Spoonbills, ten Wood Storks, 15 Greater Flamingoes, and six Blue-winged Teal. Two Clapper Rails were seen well when they emerged from the reeds and crossed open water. There were also 20 Black-bellied Plovers, two Killdeers, many Black-necked Stilts, 30 Lesser Yellowlegs, ten Willets, one Spotted Sandpiper, 15 Ruddy Turnstones, 80 Stilt Sandpipers and 30 Short-billed Dowitchers. Beyond the last hotel the Bahama Mockingbirds were found very easily. We saw four and all sang from the tops of bushes, and were thus easy to observe. We had returned to our hotel by 1400, after seeing many interesting and endemic species. After refreshments and siesta, we went out in the opposite direction, to visit Cayo Paredon Grande. Here we saw five Brown Pelicans and three Magnificent Frigatebirds, one Crested Caracara, five endemic Cuban Black-hawks, three Ospreys, and one

3 endemic Cuban Gnatcatcher, but could not find the Thick-billed Vireo, despite searching. Two of the Cuban Black-hawks were on the dangerous, rickety bridge as we drove back; both were eating crabs. We left the area later than we intended, and it was because of this we had sightings of four individual Cuban Nightjars along the roadside. Yet another endemic. April We had breakfast at 0645, then took fruit and cakes and made sandwiches for later in the day, so we would not have to stop and buy food. The car was loaded and we checked out. We returned to Cayo Paredon Grande to try to find Thick-billed Vireo, and this morning we were lucky, with good views of three birds. They took an hour to find, part of the problem had been that they were not singing, and a scolding call that they made was not recognised. In the same general area we found six individual Cuban Gnatcatchers. A surprise here was a female Merlin that was perched in a tree. It was seen very well when it flew and went round and round overhead. Other birds seen were two Cuban Emeralds, two West Indian and two Cuban Green Woodpeckers, six Red-legged Thrushes, two Grey Catbirds, 20 Northern Mockingbirds, one Palm and two Prairie Warblers, one Northern Waterthrush, four Oriente Warblers, two Crescent-eyed Pewees, 15 Loggerhead Kingbirds, five Western Spindalises, two Cuban Bullfinches, and 20 Greater Antillean Grackles. Five Cuban Black-hawks were seen and most birds were very tame and approachable. There were also three Ospreys and a group of nine Crested Caracaras. We tried to find some waders on the beach, but the tide was high and only a few species were found. As we drove back along the causeway we saw the usual Herons, three White Ibises, one Roseate Spoonbill, ten Wood Storks, 20 Brown Pelicans, many Double-crested Cormorants, 15 Magnificent Frigatebirds, ten Red-breasted Mergansers, many Royal Terns and Laughing Gulls and many thousands of Greater Flamingoes. The drive to Camagüey took three hours, then we drove for nearly another hour, to beyond Najasa to meet our local guide Pedro, and to discuss tomorrows birding. As we neared his house we saw two new species, Cuban Crows (not an endemic) and eight endemic Cuban Parakeets. After an hour of chatting we drove to our hotel, and checked in, by now too tired to eat or drink. April We were up at 0545, then drove for 45 minutes to Pedro s house. He was of course ready for us and we drove seven or eight kilometres beyond his house until we came to a sharp bend. From here we walked a short distance down a track to a lake. Here we counted 117 West Indian Whistlingducks, which were gathering here to roost. Other birds seen here were three American Purple Gallinules, one Least Grebe, five Northern Jacanas, three Anhingas, one Neotropical Cormorant, several Common Yellowthroats and five Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds. After another ten or so kilometres a pair of endemic Cuban Meadowlarks were seen in a burnt area by the roadside. A kilometre further on we saw a pair of endemic Giant Kingbirds that were building a nest in the tree high above. These were observed for some time. In the same area there were three Crescent-eyed Pewees, six Grey and 15 Loggerhead Kingbirds, and five La Sagra s Flycatchers. While watching these several Plain Pigeons were seen, some perching quite close. A loose flock of wintering American warblers was nearby and we found Black-throated Blue, Yellow-throated, Prairie, Black-and-white Warblers, Ovenbirds and American Redstart. Several small flocks of Cuban Parakeets flew by, but none were seen perched. In an unremarkable looking area close to Pedro s house we found a Fernandina s Flicker visiting its nest hole, and watched it for some time. This is another endemic species, but it is rare and declining. After a fine meal, cooked by Pedro's wife, and a brief siesta in the middle of the day, we continued birding. A walk of a few kilometres through hurricane-damaged forest, produced the endemic Cuban Pygmyowl and 20 rare and endemic Cuban Palm Crows. These look very similar to the commoner Cuban Crows, which are also present here, but can be separated by call, by their flight and by the fact that they are often in small groups on the ground, whereas the commoner species is far more arboreal. We then tried to find Cuban Grassquit as this had previously been a good area for the species, but last years hurricane had nearly wiped them out. This became the only endemic that we

4 missed. We finally left the area at 2000 and were back at our hotel in Camagüey by April We had breakfast at 0730 and had left our hotel by We stopped for five Cuban Martins on the wires just beyond Camagüey, and several kilometres further saw one, then a second pair of Cuban Meadowlarks. From here the drive was uneventful, apart from sightings of Cave Swallows, and after 415 kilometres we reached Playa larga, the journey taking five hours. This would be our base for birding Zapata Swamp and we found our pre-booked casa easily. After we arrived, Fidel, the owner of the casa, telephoned Angel, who would be our guide for the next three days. He came to meet us and we discussed what we wanted to do in the days ahead. It is not possible to go where you please in Zapata without a guide, and it is also hard to find several of the skulking endemics and it is very easy to get lost. At Fidel s casa we had a room with breakfast and an evening meal, which was always seafood, and twice lobster. In CUCs the room cost 25, breakfast was 4 each, the evening meal was 10 each, which made a total of 53 per day. When it cooled down we birded nearby then drove north and birded at the Boca. We saw a Magnificent Frigatebird, a Neotropic Cormorant, five White Ibises, one Osprey, six American Kestrels, six American Purple Gallinules, some Royal Terns, one Zenaida, six Mourning Doves and two Common Ground-doves, one Great Lizard-cuckoo, six Smooth-billed Anis, two West Indian and four Cuban Green Woodpeckers, ten Loggerhead and five Grey Kingbirds, ten Cuban Martins, six Northern Mockingbirds, one Cape May, one Yellow-rumped Warbler, two Northern Waterthrushes, two American Redstarts, four Common Yellowthroats, ten Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds, six Cuban Blackbirds, 30 Greater Antillean Grackles and 20 House Sparrows. April We were up at 0630 for our 0645 breakfast and Angel arrived at We went to Soplillar and birded until 1130, by which time it had become very hot. In the afternoon, between 1600 and 1830 we birded at Molina. One Osprey, two Cuban Black-hawks, one Broad-winged Hawk, ten American Kestrels and as always, many Turkey Vultures were seen. Six White Ibis, one Killdeer, six Royal Terns, two White-crowned Pigeons, six White-winged, five Zenaida, four Mourning Doves and four Common Ground-doves, but the best dove was the endemic Greyheaded Quail-dove. Two Rose-throated Parrots, five Great Lizard-cuckoos, and three Smoothbilled Anis. Owls are always nice to see and we saw three species. There were five Cuban Pygmyowls, which were seen very well, but we only saw the face of a Cuban Screech-owl that looked at us from its hole in a palm trunk. A Stygian Owl sitting in a leafless tree was a memorable sight. Three Cuban Emeralds, three Cuban Todies, six West Indian and eight Cuban Green Woodpeckers, two endemic Cuban Flickers, two Crescent-eyed Pewees, six Grey and 30 Loggerhead Kingbirds, five La Sagra s Flycatchers, one Cuban Crow, six Red-legged Thrushes, four Grey Catbirds, five Northern Mockingbirds, two Cuban and six Blackwhiskered Vireos, three Northern Parulas, two Magnolia, two Black-throated Blue, three Black-throated Green, one Prairie, two Palm, one Hoooded and six Black-and-white Warblers, 12 American Redstarts, four Ovenbirds and 15 Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds, five Cuban Blackbirds, many Greater Antillean Grackles and two Cuban Orioles. April We took breakfast at 0550, then drove to Angel s, where we had agreed to meet at We stopped some way north of Playa Larga on a long piece of straight road. Angel played the song of the Cuban Nightjar, but it took a long time before it called. It was seen twice as it flew by. Views were unfortunately poor. We continued along a track towards Turba and encountered the endemic Blue-headed Quail-dove ahead. We saw it well through our telescopes, until it walked off the track and into the scrub. Much further on we had good views of the endemic Zapata Wren, after 40 minutes of tape-playing. While observing this two endemic Red-shouldered Blackbirds were heard calling, and were seen well when they came into the trees at the side of the track. At the same time a Zapata Rail began to call, but there was no chance of seeing it. Rather than go further into

5 the swamp for Zapata Sparrow, we headed back and encountered a flock of American Warblers that contained three Cuban and six Black-whiskered Vireos, two Northern Parulas, two Magnolia, one Cape May, one Black-throated Blue, one Black-throated Green, one Prairie, four Palm, and six Black-and-white Warblers, 12 American Redstarts, one Ovenbird and seven Common Yellowthroats. Down another track we found a roosting Stygian Owl, and it was seen very well indeed. Nearby a Worm-eating Warbler was found feeding alone near to the ground. We had now arrived at a spot from where we could observe the songperch of the Bee Hummingbird but it did not appear, perhaps as it was now becoming rather hot. After 45 minutes we decided it may be better to try later in the afternoon. As we returned to the main road at Palpite, Angel spotted a Gundlach s Hawk overhead, so we stopped and watched it for a few minutes. We were back at the casa by Later we drove around some quiet roads looking for hawks, and went back to meet Angel at We went back down the track west from Palpite to observe the smallest bird in the world, the endemic Bee Hummingbird. As it was far away, we trained our telescopes on its songpost above the canopy, and observed the bird, which kept returning. The roosting Stygian Owl was still on its perch and we observed it again. Other birds encountered today were six White Ibis, one Wood stork, one Osprey, one Crested Caracara, eight American Kestrels, one American Purple Gallinule, four Limpkins, one Killdeer, 12 Royal Terns, three White-winged, two Zenaida, five Mourning Doves and eight Common Ground-doves, Cuban Parakeet (heard only), two Rose-throated Parrots, four Great Lizard-cuckoos, four Cuban Emeralds, two Cuban Trogons, three Cuban Todies, two West Indian and four Cuban Green Woodpeckers, two Crescent-eyed Pewees, five Grey and 30 Loggerhead Kingbirds, six La Sagra s Flycatchers, two Cuban Crows, eight Red-legged Thrushes, four Grey Catbirds, five Northern Mockingbirds, four Western Spindalises, two Cuban Bullfinches, three Yellow-faced Grassquits, and many Greater Antillean Grackles. We had an early finish; we would have liked to have birded until it became dark, but Angel announced that birding was over. April Breakfast at 0630 and we met Angel at We went to Molinas where we walked and drove the tracks. The morning session was finished by Raptors seen were one Osprey, two Red-tailed Hawks, one Crested Caracara, and six American Kestrels. The usual doves were seen, including a White-crowned Pigeon but today we walked the trails very quietly as we were trying very hard for Quail-doves. Today we were very lucky as had good views of two Grey-headed Quail-doves and three Blue-headed Quail-doves. A Ruddy Quail-dove was seen poorly when it flew along the track. Three Great Lizard-cuckoos, six Smooth-billed Anis, two Cuban Pygmy-owls, five Cuban Emeralds, three Cuban Trogons, one Cuban Tody, four West Indian and four Cuban Green Woodpeckers, two Crescent-eyed Pewees, 20 Loggerhead Kingbirds, three La Sagra s Flycatchers, ten Cave and 20 Barn Swallows, two Cuban Crows, ten Red-legged Thrushes, 15 Grey Catbirds, five Northern Mockingbirds, two Cuban and five Black-whiskered Vireos, one Magnolia, one Black-throated Blue and one Prairie Warbler, 15 American Redstarts, three Ovenbirds, two Red-legged Honeycreepers, four Western Spindalises, and many Greater Antillean Grackles. At lunchtime we went to have a meal at the diving centre. On the little wooden jetty nearby we saw 30 Royal Terns, 17 Sandwich Terns and surprisingly four Black-legged Kittiwakes in winter plumage. I did not realise what a rarity they were until I looked in the book much later. There were also many Laughing Gulls. In the afternoon we went out at 1600 and searched the Lechuza area. We had good views of a Fernandina s Flicker, and later a second bird at its nest hole. We were finished at the ridiculously early time of This was rather frustrating as it is forbidden to go down the trails without a guide. In the evening we went out and scanned an open area before dusk and were rewarded with the sight of a hawking Antillean Nighthawk. April In the morning we had a later breakfast, then drove to the north-west corner of the bay. We walked down the beach, and then, where possible, into the mangrove, where there were a lot of biting flies. We saw many interesting species including one Osprey, two Cuban Black-hawks, one Red-tailed

6 Hawk, two Crested Caracaras, four American Kestrels, four Lesser Yellowlegs, two Spotted Sandpipers, the usual doves, two Smooth-billed Anis, one Cuban Pygmy-owl, two Cuban Emeralds, one Cuban Tody, two Belted Kingfishers, one West Indian and two Cuban Green Woodpeckers, twenty Loggerhead Kingbirds, one Cuban Martin, ten each of Cave and Barn Swallows, two Red-legged Thrushes, two Grey Catbirds, two Northern Mockingbirds, ten American Redstarts, two Ovenbirds, one Northern and one Louisiana Waterthrush, two Yellow-headed Warblers, ten Tawny-shouldered and six Cuban Blackbirds. After passing on the news of our Black-legged Kittiwake sightings, we returned to the diving centre but there were no terns on the jetty, but there was still a single Kittiwake. We left for Havana Airport at 1300 and the journey of 120 kilometres took 3 hours. At kilometre 114 before Havana we stopped for an Accipiter that was flying by the roadside. A quick reversal of the car and we had nearly ten superb minutes watching a hunting Gundlach s Hawk. About 50 kilometres further on we encountered a flock of 20 Antillean Palm Swifts, which was our last noteworthy sighting. We arrived at the airport and parked our dusty and dirty car in the car park and a man came out to check it over. He said it was fine, which was a relief, as we had damaged the underside a little. We had plenty of time before our 1910 departure. April We arrived at London Gatwick at 0925 and soon collected our bags and headed for home after a very successful birding trip. Cuban Endemics Cuban Kite Gundlach s Hawk Cuban Black-hawk Zapata Rail Blue-headed Quail-dove Grey-fronted Quail-dove Cuban Nightjar Cuban Parakeet Cuban Screech-owl Cuban Pygmy-owl Bee Hummingbird Cuban Trogon Cuban Tody Cuban Green Woodpecker Cuban Flicker Fernandina s Flicker Giant Kingbird Cuban Martin Cuban Palm Crow Zapata Wren Cuban Gnatcatcher Cuban Solitaire Cuban Vireo Yellow-headed Warbler Oriente Warbler Cuban Grassquit Zapata Sparrow Red-shouldered Blackbird Cuban Meadowlark Cuban Blackbird Cuban Oriole Cuban Near-endemics Rose-throated Parrot Great Lizard-cuckoo Cuban Emerald West Indian Woodpecker Crescent-eyed Pewee La Sagra s Flycatcher Cuban Crow Thick-billed Vireo Olive-capped Warbler Western Spindalis Cuban Bullfinch Carribean Endemics West Indian Whistling-duck Scaly-naped Pigeon Plain Pigeon Key West Quail-dove Antillean Nighthawk Antillean Palm Swift Loggerhead Kingbird Bahama Mockingbird Red-legged Thrush Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Greater Antillean Grackle

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