CLEAR SILICONE CAULKING, (DOW 1199), IS OUR PREFERENCE. 1/16 or 1/8 GLAZING TAPE ACCORDING TO WIDTH OF IG BEING REPLACED

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1 Tools you will need. FLAT RAZOR BLADES RUBBER MALLET CLEAR SILICONE CAULKING, (DOW 1199), IS OUR PREFERENCE TAPE MEASURE CHOP SAW FOR GLAZING STOP IF NECESSARY RUBBING ALCOHOL WINDEX SETTING BLOCKS 1/16 or 1/8 GLAZING TAPE ACCORDING TO WIDTH OF IG BEING REPLACED GLASS CUPS FOR SETTING UNITS BONE FOLDER: FOR POSITIONING IG UNIT, ONCE SET INTO FRAME ***Before Starting IGU Replacement*** Make sure Window Frame is Plumb / Level / Square Always Check that Replacement Glass is correct OA (Thickness) / Width / Height Always Check for any defects in received glass. Always Check that Replacement Glass is same size as Original Glass before removing Original IGU (Glass) Always Pre Set Replacement Glass before removing Blue Backing on Glazing Tape and applying Silicone to Frame. This will assure you have proper Setting Block Height for Sight lines and Clearance of Glazing Bead under and around Glass inside the glazing pocket. Apply Glazing Bead while Pre-Setting Glass to make sure Setting Block Clearance is acceptable inside the Glazing Pocket. If unfamiliar with New Glazing Stop Profile, Practice installing and removing on Old Glass before removing. This will help once new glass is set.

2 Glazing Alpen HPP 925 & 525 Picture Windows and Casements CLEAN THE EXCESS POLYURETHANE FROM THE IG UNIT USING A RAZOR. REMOVE ANY REMAINING RESIDUE WITH THE RUBBING ALCOHOL. BE SURE TO CLEAN THE WHOLE IG UNIT WITH WINDEX PRIOR TO SETTING.

3 APPLY DOUBLE SIDED GLAZING TAPE (TOP, SIDES, BOTTOM,) MAKING SURE THE TAPE SITS FLUSH AGAINST THE EDGES. PEEL OFF BLUE TAPE BACKING, YOU MAY WANT TO LEAVE IT ON EVERYWHERE BUT THE CORNERS IN THE FIELD, FOR ADJUSTMENTS. YOU CAN ALSO REMOVE THE BLUE TAPE BACKING AND SPRAY WATER ALONG THE TAPE TO HELP WITH SMALL ADJUSTMENTS OF THE GLASS SIDE TO SIDE OR UP AND DOWN. THEN CAULK ALL THE WAY AROUND THE WINDOW BETWEEN THE GLAZING TAPE AND FRAME LEAVING A CONTINOUS BEAD OF SILICONE (NO VOIDS.) BE SURE TO GET THE CORNERS WELL.

4 BE SURE THERE AREN T ANY SIZEABLE GAPS BETWEEN THE GLAZING TAPES WHERE THEY CONVERGE AT THE CORNERS. A SLIGHT GAP IS EXPECTED AND SHOULD BE SEALED WITH SILICONE. GLAZING TAPE SHOULD ALWAYS GO ACROSS THE TOP HEADER, DOWN BOTH SIDE JAMBS, THEN BETWEEN THE TWO JAMBS ON THE SILL.

5 THE SETTING BLOCK GOES BETWEEN THE IG UNIT AND THE SASH/FRAME. MAKE SURE BOTH GLASS LITES ARE SUPPORTED BY THE SETTING BLOCK, AND FOLLOW GANA SPACING GUIDELINES.THIS IS HOW EVERY CORNER SHOULD LOOK WHEN THE IG UNIT IS PLACED INTO THE FRAME CORRECTLY. THIS ENSURES THAT THE EDGE OF THE UNIT IS SUFFICIENTLY CONCEALED IN THE FRAME. IF YOU SET THE UNIT SLIGHTLY OFF CENTER, YOU WILL HAVE SIGHTLINES AND PROBLEMS INSTALLING THE GLAZING BEAD. PLACING SETTING BLOCKS ALONG THE JAMBS TO HELP CENTER GLASS WHEN SETTING IS OK. BE SURE THEY DO NOT INTERFEER WITH INSTALLATION OF THE GLAZING BEAD. IF YOU GET THE BACKING STARTED AT THE CORNERS, AND LEAVE MOST OF IT ON, IT WILL HELP WITH ADJUSTMENTS DURING THIS STEP. JUST BE SURE TO REMOVE IT AFTER PLACEMENT, BEFORE INSTALLING THE STOP.

6 Removing & Installing Glazing Bead 925 & 525 Glass 1. Wedge the Five in One Painters tool with the pointed tip up between the glazing bead and frame at the top of the piece you are trying to release from the window frame. The glazing bead has a lip/groove on it that is wedged into the frame and allows the glazing bead to snap into a channel on the frame when pressure is applied to it.

7 2.) Use pressure and press the Five in One tool into the glazing bead between the frame and the glazing bead. Apply the pressure as you wedge/slide the glazing bead out to the left away from the frame. This will allow the lip/groove that is on the glazing bead to separate from the frame, releasing pressure and therefore allowing the glazing bead to detach/come loose.

8 3.) Once you see that the groove on the glazing has bead come out from behind the frame, Set the Five in One tool or Plastic Folding Bone against the glass and use it to get between the glass and glazing bead. Then wedge the glazing bead away from the glass. This will give you room to tuck the Breather Tube behind the glazing bead once it has been Crimped properly.

9 Setting Block Placement for Alpen HPP Casement Windows Casement Windows need to be glazed according to the Diagram above and Dependent on the Hinge Side of the Operable Sash. The Operable Sash gets cross blocked to prevent the weight Of the glass and sash frame from causing Sash Sag. The Position of the Bottom Corner Setting Blocks is Dependent on the Hinge Side of the Operable Sash. The Top Corner Setting Blocks are Set in the Opposite Corner of the Operable Hinge. The entire Width of glass needs to be Supported by the Appropriate Density Setting Blocks. Locate the bottom Setting Block as close To the Hinge Corner as Permitted by the GANA Glazing Manuel. *Alpen HPP Trick to Glazing Casement Glass is to use same width / height setting blocks at opposite Corner of Sill to make sure glass sets properly/ level across the Sill, then remove them before adding glazing stop. Never leave in place.

10 Setting Block Placement Alpen HPP 1 3/8 Glass: This setting block placement is only a concern on our Thicker OA Glass the Glass OA Thickness is 1 3/8 and the style of glazing bead used for this particular glass thickness. Pre-set all Replacement Glass Units to check for proper Setting Block Height/Glazing Bead Clearance. *Any Piece of Glass less than 48 Inches in Width, Setting Blocks are placed 6 Minimum from Glass Edge. *Any Piece of Glass over 48 Inches in Width, Divide the Glass Width by 4 for Center of Setting Blocks from Glass Edge. 1.) Here is a corner sample to show a side view of the setting blocks NOT supporting both lites of glass for 1 3/8 Glass. This particular picture shows that the setting blocks have shifted when the glazing stop was installed and now the middle full 1/16 x 1 ½ x 1 ½ setting blocks are not under the top full 1/16 x 1 ½ x 1 ½ setting block. Our production line puts a dab of wet glazing silicone on the bottom of each setting block and smashes them together to form the complete 3/16 thickness needed for proper sightlines at the top and bottom of the window frame opening during Factory Installation.

11 2.) This picture shows the 1 3/8 Insulated Glass Unit (IGU) fully supported as needed by QA Production Standards at Alpen HPP as well as GANA Glazing Guidelines.

12 3.) This picture shows how the glazing stop needs to wedge under the glass and setting blocks to get it installed properly.

13 4.) This picture shows that we cut a ¼ off of one of the 1/16 x 1 ½ x 1 ½ setting blocks and set that down in the glazing pocket first to bridge the gap left by the glazing stop profile and to assure that that bottom shelf on the Low Profile PW, High Profile PW Frame and Casement/Awning Frame is supporting the exterior glass lite.

14 5.) We then stack two full 1/16 x 1 ½ x 1 ½ setting blocks on top of the one we cut ¼ off of to extend the support to the top of the glazing stop itself so that the Glazing stop will support the inner lite of glass. This creates a 3/16 Total Setting Block Depth.

15 Old Style Profile 925 & 525 Glazing Bead The old style glazing bead has a piece of glazing stop and an adaptor strip that it snaps into once the adaptor strip has been put inside the channel of the window frame or glazing pocket. The hook on the glazing bead snaps into the square channel in the adaptor strip. ** If ever replacing the OLD STYLE Glazing Bead with the New Style Glazing Bead, you need to cut the Adaptor Strip that accepts the OLD STYLE Glazing Bead, which is placed in the frame with a sharp Razor Blade and remove it with a pair of needle nose pliars. The placement of the Original Setting Blocks will also have to be amended for the New Style Glazing stop to fit properly.

16 New Style Profile 925 & 525 Glazing Bead The glazing bead formed is in one solid piece. The new profile has the adaptor strip molded into the glazing bead. The adaptor strip still fits inside the channel of the window frame or glazing pocket. The small edge along the wider side snaps behind the window frame keeping it secure and tight against the glass. = The Hook / Edge of the Glazing Bead that replaces the Old Adaptor Strip and fits into the frame behind the glass = The Hook / Edge of the Glazing Bead that snaps behind the Frame to hold the glazing stop in place and allows it to place pressure to the glass. This edge needs to be released from behind the frame in order to remove the glazing stop