World s Best DRIVING ROUTES Treasures CAPE TOWN In terior STYLE Clint lewis Designs Champels Creative hospitality

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1 LIFESTYLE The World s Best DRIVING ROUTES The Treasures of CAPE TOWN In terior STYLE Interviews with Clint Lewis Designs, Champels Creative Hospitality, and MARI IANIQ Food & Drink MOCCAMASTER For the real taste of coffee La Fashionista Louis Moinet Watchmaker interview 1

2 Bringing Back the Original Chronograph An Interview with Jean-Marie Schaller CEO of Louis Moinet Passionate about the art of expert watchmaking, Louis Moinet was widely regarded as the de facto authority on the subject, creating peerless timepieces which combined wonderful craftsmanship and innovative designs into spectacular works of art. Yet, much like fellow innovator Nikola Tesla, Louis Moinet s name gathered dust whilst his creations captured the imagination. His contributions would not remain unrecognised, however. In 2003 a Swiss company was founded which boasted a combination of innovation and excellence that could live up to the legacy of its historic namesake. LTG spoke to Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and founder of Louis Moinet, to explore the nuances of watchmaking and find out why Moinet s restoration was just a matter of time Louis Moinet: The Man Louis Moinet is born in France. A gifted student, a young Moinet cultivates an interest in watchmaking and art Moving to Rome, Moinet studies alongside some of the finest artists of the age. Moinet returns to Paris is appointed Professor of the Fine Arts in the Louvre. Moinet begins spending long periods in Switzerland, mastering watchmaking arts. 86

3 What factors led to you reviving the Louis Moinet brand? You know, I really believe it was my destiny to relaunch the name of Louis Moinet. Even though it was practically unknown at that time, it came to me once, twice and thrice, to the point that I could not escape. I had to do it. I felt it was my mission. Back in 2003, the only historical document we had was a 10-page biography. I loved the mix between Haute Horlogerie and Art. It was very unique and specific to Louis Moinet. We started very small, with a big heart and practically no money. Magic happened on the historical side, discovering the amazing work of one of the most important watchmakers that ever lived (as described in the Pantheon Biographique Universel). Treasures that were forgotten from history. Meanwhile, a few good friends helped me to start with our first collections. From the very first day, our concept has been Mechanical Art in Limited Editions. There is no quartz by Louis Moinet, and there is no watch which is not numbered and not part of a limited edition. This is how we preserve the uniqueness and value. What is Louis Moinet to you: is it art or fashion? Art. Without any doubt. As we rediscover his heritage, it has an artistic influence on today s world. We receive many messages from people discovering the pure work of Louis Moinet, based on passion and not mercantilism. Louis Moinet, as President of the Chronometry Society of Paris, had the mission of developing watchmaking one of the most beautiful human sciences. At that time, Paris was like Silicon Valley. The place where all new technologies happened. Louis Moinet was one of these amazing scientists, well ahead of its time. He invented the chronograph in 1816, which was also the first high frequency watch ever made, running at 216,000 vibrations/h eight to 10 times more than a contemporary watch. Experts could not believe that Louis Moinet had a lead-time of 100 years! I like to compare him to Leonardo Da Vinci. What do you believe separates Louis Moinet from other watchmakers? Known for being an exceptional horologist as well as having extraordinary clients such as Napoleon, Tsar Alexander I and Thomas Jefferson to name a few Louis Moinet is the chronograph s inventor. He was one of the greatest watchmakers ever his inventiveness, passion and willingness to pass on his wisdom mean his contribution to horology is immeasurable. Furthermore, Louis Moinet is considered as one of the very few inventors of a major technology. Not only did he invent the chronograph, he also wrote and published in 1848 his famous Traité d Horlogerie (Watchmaking Treatise) the most important book on watches from the 19th century. His heritage is unique! A Louis Moinet clock is crafted for Napoleon Bonaparte, boasting an eightday movement and displays hours, minutes and date. Moinet makes clocks for the King of Naples, Thomas Jefferson and Ernest Augustus, Prince of Hannover. Moinet becomes the personal advisor to fellow master horologist Abraham- Louis Breguet. Work begins on the world s first chronograph, which is completed the following year. US President James Monroe purchases a Moinet clock, which still sits in the White House today. Traité d horlogerie is published. It collects Moinet s extensive knowledge of watchmaking and is still considered the definitive text on the subject. 87

4 How important is the sense of history and tradition in the overall ethos of Louis Moinet watches? all chronograph parts are built on the top of the watch; Tempograph is the only 20-second retrograde watch; Space Mystery the only satellite tourbillon; and we have more innovations coming too. We have one foot in the past, one foot in the future. Heritage means roots. It is a starting point from which we build today s story. In my opinion, heritage is essential. 50 years ago, a watch was a technical product needed to tell the time. 15 years ago, a watch had become more of a status symbol. And today, a watch is a cultural object. Micro-technology is the daughter of heritage. The work of our fathers has enabled us to miniaturise more and more, opening the door to new possibilities. Our upcoming projects all have the same remit: to revisit traditional watchmaking in a creative way. You can expect a few surprises in both technical and design fields. A watch is not a product; it is the testimony of a unique know-how that has been acquired, developed and enriched generation after generation. Given that Louis Moinet is credited with inventing the chronograph you could also say that innovation is equally as important as history and tradition. To what extent do you focus on the future trends and developments? We write new chapters of the Louis Moinet book. History is the foundation from which we innovate. Practically all our watches feature unique technology and very special features. Memoris is the first ever chronograph in which Moinet s chronometer is exhibited at the Great Exhibition world fair in London. Moinet dies in Paris, revered by his peers as as a good-hearted man of outstanding intellect. Louis Moinet: The Legacy Jean-Marie Schaller, future founder and CEO of the Louis Moinet brand is born He achieves a Federal Diploma as a Marketing Technician with the highest grade ever awarded. Schaller is responsible for creating the pebble advertising concept for Bertolucci. 88

5 Can you talk us through the thought process behind your unique projects? Always to be true to Louis Moinet and to ourselves. We are more artists than marketeers. We want to perpetuate the watch culture by inventing new watches that have both the wow-factor and the Louis Moinet DNA. Basically, we are looking for new emotions to share with our friends and clients. In 2016, you celebrated the 200 year anniversary of the invention of the chronograph, whilst in 2017 you collaborated with Wealth Solutions on a wrist watch containing the oldest whisky in the world. Are there any plans for collaborative or commemorative pieces in the coming year? Yes, we have a wonderful collaboration with one of the most important cosmonauts. But shhh, I cannot tell you more than that right now! You have creatively incorporated some unusual materials into the design such as dinosaur bone and meteorites from the moon. How do you even get your hands on such rare materials? (Also, which comes first the materials or the design concept?) The source is my good friend, Luc Labenne, who is the worldwide authority in meteorites. I also work with a museum to guarantee the authenticity of the materials chosen. The idea is to combine art with the concept of time and space. Sometimes, technology comes first, sometimes the material. There is no rule. I had a beautiful piece of fossilised palm tree, for nearly two years, before I found the right concept to use it. With each sale, this watch contributed to the preservation of the oldest rainforest in Schaller acquires the Daniel Roth contract for worldwide distribution and is responsible for its international launch. Schaller founds the luxury watch company Perrelet SA, taking a position on the board of directors and as general manager. He joins Lacoste Watches as Marketing Director, also taking a position on the board of directors. The Louis Moinet company is founded, dedicated to reviving the name of the inspirational master watchmaker. Schaller is responsible for acquiring Lacoste Watches most valuable customer. The Louis Moinet brand wins a Red Dot Award for Design. 89

6 200 components, interacting with a precision equal to half a human hair. A final product would normally consist of more than 50 components, and they must protect the movement, be water proof, etc. For this, only the best and most reliable materials are to be chosen. Do you have a particular favourite piece that you have produced? The Memoris Red Eclipse (pictured Left) is the perfect bridge between past and present, a wholly new chronograph with a hand-engraved case. And only 12 watches are available in the world. It is the quintessence of our work. I also love the Space Mystery, with its meteorite containing amino-acids and unique magic blue dial. But this model is now sold out. You see, as a watchmaker, it is a special emotion. A little bit like seeing your children leaving home. the world through the Pulau Banding Foundation, in Malaysia. And it received a Best of Best from Red Dot Design. How do you determine the less rare but equally impressive materials used in your projects? Most of the time they have a technical function. A watch is a very complex object. In a movement, they are more than Is there anything else you would like to share with our readers at this time? I thank your readers for their interest. I believe watchmaking is part of the human heritage. Technologies invented 200 or 300 years ago, are still used and perfected today. Mechanical watches are on the wrists of the most important people of this world. It is quite unique, actually. Watchmaking is the proof that the human being has a soul; a commemoration and remembrance of history and heritage The brand unveil the original Louis Moinet chronograph at a press conference in Geneva. Experts confirm the year of its construction (1815) and determine that this is likely the world s first ever chronograph. The company commemorate the bicentennial of Moinet s invention of the chronograph by creating the world s first chronographwatch, Memoris Red Eclipse. The Guinness World Record for World s First Chronograph is awarded to the company Louis Moinet partner with Wealth Solutions to create the Whiskey Watch, containing drops of the oldest whiskey in the world

7 Showcasing Louis Moinet An impeccable sense of timekeeping Louis Moinet has been synonymous with innovative timekeeping since the 1800s. Therefore, it stands to reason that the Louis Moinet brand be held to similarly lofty expectations, combining expert craftsmanship and new technology to make timekeeping marvels. THE MEMORIS RED ECLIPSE Diameter: 46 mm Unique Feature: Monopusher chronograph with column wheel A bicentennial celebration of Louis Moinet s achievements, Memoris is a hand-engraved, traditionallystyled masterpiece. The watch face depicts a lunar eclipse on a starfilled background. A traditional rose engine creates a spectacular effect which makes the stars twinkle in myriad ways, depending on how they are viewed. There are only 12 of these watches in the world. 91

8 GEOGRAPH RAINFOREST Case Diameter: 46.50mm Chronograph: Central seconds; 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Louis Moinet s blend of heritage and invention is truly at the forefront of this unique design. Utilising genuine fossilised palm wood, this watch finds its origins in an emblematic tree from the tropical forests of Southeast Asia, believed to be 70 million years old. 92

9 JULES VERNE INSTRUMENT 1 Case Diameter: 52mm X 46mm Silver and Black dial models have Côtes du Jura engraved rotor. The meeting of 19th Century icons, the Jules Verne Instrument series combine Louis Moinet s innovative watchmaking techniques with the imaginatitve sci-fi creations of Jules Verne resulting in a retro-futurist wonder. 93

10 20-SECOND TEMPOGRAPH Case Diameter: 43.50mm (titanium); 44mm (18K gold) 20-second retrograde mechanism The only 20-second retrograde watch of its kind, the Tempograph combines techniques old and new to seamlessly blend heritage and innovation. The watch s unique movements are reminiscent of enlightenment-era automatons, lending the watch a distinctive look. 94

11 SPACE MYSTERY Case Diameter: 46mm Outsized 13.59mm satellite tourbillon Hour & Minute Gouttes de Rosée dew-drop hands The world s first Satellite Tourbillon, Space Mystery is a distinctive timepiece which contains authentic fragments of a crashed meteorite. The watch s magic blue dial is a secret known only to Louis Moinet, taking its maker s grand tradition of innovation into the space age. 95