The Hong Kong Polytechnic University Textile Design ITC 3760 Dr. Jiang Final Project J A S M I N E I N D I G O L O C K W O O D X

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1 The Hong Kong Polytechnic University Textile Design ITC 3760 Dr. Jiang Final Project J A S M I N E I N D I G O L O C K W O O D X

2 Module I D Y E I N G

3 Dyeing Aim The purpose of this course is to study textile design with dyeing and patterning processes, including the concepts of tie dye and direct application processes for the coloring and patterning.

4 Dyeing Principle Tie dye can preserve original color in particular areas of a fabric from due process when the fabric is dipped into the dye solution. The pattern is the result of tying, folding, stitching and clamping through shield treatments.

5 Dyeing Tye dye Material Fabric: White silk Dyestuff: Acid dye Protection: Old clothes, work gown and rubber gloves Tools and auxiliary materials: Scissors, knife, rope, thread, rubber band, clip, wooden stick, coin, etc.

6 Dyeing Tye dye Procedure Wash silk fabric in 2% detergent water (ph 7) to remove any grease and impurities. Rinse well. Fastening/clamping parts with specific forms where you want the original color to remain in the fabric. Some materials can be used such as rope, thread, wooden sticks, rubber bands, coins, marble clips etc. Only heat-resistant materials may use in dyeing practice. Acid dye is employed in this class which is specially used for wool, silk, and nylon coloration. Once the sample is soaked by water, the fabric is put in the dye vat with 100 C. Duration of dyeing based on personal design idea (dark or light). Folded fabric needs longer time to have saturated color. Stirring with spoon continuously. Rinse well in flowing water. Dropping the excess solution. Multicolor effect can be gained from repeat of steps 1 to 5. Dry the fabric and untie to reveal design. Ironing and finishing.

7 Dyeing Sample 1 Design Idea/Design Development Veined legs Water color painting

8 Dyeing Sample 1 Technique I began by making a gods eye with two chop sticks and a rubber band. Then I folded the fabric twice. From there I placed it on top of the gods eye and began tying away as would in Sunday school. After that, I placed the first corner in yellow for one second, the next corner in red for one second, the next in blue for one second, and the last corner went into blue again for one second. Finally I washed it thoroughly.

9 Performance Dyeing Sample 1

10 Dyeing Sample 2 Design Idea / Design Development Alien eyes Fall season

11 Dyeing Sample 2 Techniques I began by placing the fabric on a tube and tying rope around it then scrunching it together. After that I place the tube into the yellow dye for three minutes and then washed. Then I tried another technique of placing five coins on the surface and tying a rope around each. I dipped one end in red and blue for three minutes each. Then I dipped the other end in just red. Finally washed thoroughly.

12 Performance Dyeing Sample 2

13 Northern Lights

14 Jamaica

15 Dyeing Scarf 1 Design Idea / Design Development Veined legs Water color painting

16 Technique Dyeing Scarf 1 I began by making a gods eye with two chop sticks and a rubber band. Then I folded the fabric four times. From there I placed it on top of the gods eye and began tying away as would in Sunday school. After that, I placed the first corner in yellow for one second, the next corner in red for one second, the next in blue for one second, and the last corner went into blue again. Finally I washed it thoroughly. Printed gold and silver fine metallic powder female on one end as an accent.

17 Performance Dyeing Scarf 1

18 Scouring Principle The scouring process is to remove the sericin (protein) coating from the silk fiber. The pattern is the result of tying, folding, stitching and clamping through shielding treatments. The fibers without sericin will present lighter color after dyeing with acid dye. The scouring result may vary according to the fabric weave, weight, etc.

19 Scouring Material Fabric: White organza silk Scouring solution: Soda ash (8 to 10% of fabric weight) Water (40x weight of fabric), ph 10 Acidic solution: Acetum, ph 5 Dye: Reactive dye (cold) Protection: Old clothes, work gown and rubber gloves Tools and auxiliary materials: Scissors, knife, robe, thread, rubber bands, clips, wooden sticks, coins, etc

20 Scouring Procedure Fastening/clamping parts with specific forms where you want the original color to remain in the fabric. Some materials can be used such as rope, thread, wooden sticks, rubber bands, coins, marble clips etc. Only heat resistant materials may be used in the dyeing process Boil and simmer the silk in the soda solution for minutes. Duration of scouring based on personal design idea (soft or hard). If you desire softer silk, boil longer; but be careful not to over scour. Remove the tying materials. Rinse in light acidic acid solution Rinse in cold water (rinse in cold, washing machine and spin cycle.) Dropping reactive dye solution about 30 minutes. Stirring with spoon to have saturated color. Rinse well with flowing water. Dry flat.

21 Scouring Sample 1 Design Idea / Design Development Blue waves Sky Writings Transparency

22 Scouring Sample 1 Technique I began by wrapping the fabric completely around a tube and tying rope around it. Scrunched. Set in solution for twenty minutes. Rinsed in light acidic solution Rinse in flowing water. Set in green dye for three minutes. Rinsed thoroughly.

23 Performance Scouring Sample 1

24 Scouring Sample 2 Design Idea / Design Development Tribal Ethnic

25 Scouring Sample 2 Technique Firstly, I began by folding the fabric twice. Then I placed three popsicle sticks diagonally with clips. I also placed four coins with a clip on the fabric. Placed in solution for twenty minutes. Rinsed in light acidic solution. Rinsed in flowing water. Placed in blue dye for three minutes.

26 Performance Scouring Sample 2

27 North. West.

28 Torch

29 Tiki Tiki

30 Module II E T C H I N G

31 Chemical Etching Aim The modules will provide students the exploration of etching and dyeing techniques in metallic fabric.

32 Chemical Etching Principle Aluminum film on the surface of the fabric can be dissolved employing an alkali solution. New effects can be developed with the metallic fabric based on etching, dyeing and design methods.

33 Chemical Etching Technique Fabric: Aluminum foil laminated nylon Etching solution: Soda solution with ph11, 100 C Dyeing: Disperse dye Supplementary: Scissors, knife, thread, clip, wooden stick, coin etc Protection: Work gown, protection glasses and rubber gloves

34 Chemical Etching Process Covering parts of the metallic fabric tightly where you desire to keep the metallic effect. Immerse the metallic fabric into etching solution to dissolve metal foil with 1-10 minutes. Rinse well in running water. Dyeing in disperse dye solution. Stirring during etching and dyeing processes. Rinse with tap water.

35 Chemical Etching Sample 1 Design Idea / Design Development Earth Wind Fire

36 Chemical Etching Sample 1 Technique Firstly I wrapped the fabric around a tube, tying rope around it and scrunching it together. Then I placed it into the solution for three minutes. Rinsed well in running water. Then I placed one end in the yellow dyebath for three minutes. After that I placed the other end in the blue for three minutes. The results were not where I wanted them to be, so I placed the yellow end in the red to give it an orange coloring.

37 Performance Chemical Etching Sample 1

38 Chemical Etching Sample 2 Design Idea / Design Development Moss

39 Chemical Etching Sample 2 Technique Firstly, I placed a coin in the middle of the fabric and tied it with a rubber band. I also clipped two popsicle sticks to the corners. After that I placed it into the solution for six minutes. Untied and rinsed in running water. Then I put the fabric into the yellow dye for three minutes and the blue for three minutes giving it the green coloring.

40 Performance Chemical Etching Sample 2

41 M.I.A.

42 Chemical Etching Scarf 1 Design Idea / Design Development Snake skin

43 Chemical Etching Scarf 1 Technique I began with folding the fabric into thirds. I then placed two triangles on one side with two coins clamped. On the other side, I clipped three popsicle sticks diagonally. Then I placed it into the solution for two minutes. Rinsed well in running water. Then, I wrapped the fabric around a tube, tying the rope around it and scrunching it together. Then I placed it into the solution for two minutes. Rinsed well in running water. Then I placed one end of the tube in the yellow dyebath for three minutes. After that I placed it in the blue dye for another three minutes.

44 Performance Chemical Etching Scarf 1

45 Chemical Etching Scarf 2 Performance Group work (You have)

46 Module III B U R N O U T

47 Burn Out Aim The study provides students with the basic understanding of the burn out technique and gives the opportunity to explore the design possibilities of pattern and texture by using the chemical treatment process on blended textiles.

48 Burn Out Principle Burn out is a chemical etching process on a type of fabric composed of protein/cellulose and nylon/cotton blended fabric. A specific acid chemical paste is printed onto the blended fabric and heated to activate the chemical reaction to carbonize the cellulose fiber to modify surface structure of the fabric.

49 Burn Out Material Fabric: Cotton/polyester blended fabric Burn out chemical: Acid paste (aluminum chloride hexahydrate) Dyestuff Direct Tools and facilities: Brush, paper plate, screen printing frame, and oven

50 Burn Out Procedure Develop idea and sketch your design Draw or print the pattern with acid paste on the blended fabric. Make sure the chemical paste has uniformly penetrated the fabric. Put the printed fabric into an oven with 150 C for 5-10 minutes. The chemical reaction activates and burns the cotton fibers. A relief effect is obtained when the burned cotton fibers are removed from the fabric. Dyeing in direct dye.

51 Burn Out Sample 1 Design Idea / Design Development Burning sun

52 Burn Out Sample 1 Technique To start I began with folding and cutting a piece of paper in imitation of the suns rays. After that, I placed the fabric on the table with the paper and then the open screen on top of it. Dabbing two spoonfuls of the chemical paste on to the screen, I pulled and pushed the paste to and from me. Removed the excess paste and lifted the screen. Placed the fabric into the oven for ten minutes at 150 C. Then I scratched out the carbonized portion with a metal clip. Placed the fabric into the bleach for ten minutes. Washed in running water. Placed in the yellow dye for fifteen seconds, then red for another fifteen seconds, and finally blue and red on the corner tips for fifteen seconds each.

53 Performance Burn Out Sample 1

54 Burn Out Scarf 1 Design Idea / Design Development Sunshine Beach Happy

55 Burn Out Scarf 1 Technique I began with a screen that I had made previously (used an image that I photoshopped myself and exposed and washed off with water) Then I cut out two emblems out of white paper. I printed the two females first on each end, and then the five emblems very careful not to smudge any of the paste in the middle evenly spaced. After that I put the scarf in the oven to bake for ten minutes at 150 C. Once it was finished and dark enough, I scratched out the carbonized fibers. Bleached for ten minutes. Died full scarf in red for ten minutes, then yellow on the ends for ten minutes, then purple on the tips for five minutes. I also scrunched three of the emblems and dipped them in blue for two minutes.

56 Performance Burn Out Scarf 1

57 Module IV L A S E R E N G R A V I N G

58 Laser Engraving Aim The purpose of this course is to study textile design with the laser engraving process, including the concepts of patterning and direct application in textile and garment designs.

59 Laser Engraving Principle Laser engraving/marking is a versatile application of laser by using a parallel beam to remove the surface layer of fabric and transfer the pattern on its surface. When a high laser beam is focused and targeted on the fabric, the beam will heat up the sample surface and ablate part of the material out. The nearby region will also heat up but no material will be removed, this is so called the heat affected zone.

60 Laser Engraving Material Fabric: Denim fabric Denim clothing: Denim jacket or jeans Laser machine GFK Flexi-150

61 Laser Engraving Procedure Generate design in computer using photoshop/illustrator. Export design to the laser system. Engrave the pattern with proper condition on fabrics. Finishing.

62 Laser Engraving Design preparation Two pattern designs 30cm x 30cm with resolution 80 dpi (jpeg), one for denim fabric, one for denim clothing

63 Laser Engraving Sample 1 Design Idea / Design Development Native Americans

64 Laser Engraving Sample 1 Technique Photoshopped an image to be black and white and then flipped it to be a negative version. Saved it as a jpeg at 80 dpi. Exported it into the laser machine. Put on protective gear. The intensity was 72. Engraved an area of 30cm x 30cm.

65 Performance Laser Engraving Sample 1

66 Trail of Tears

67 Eve Gyeui Nihi

68 Module V T R A N S F E R P R I N T I N G

69 Transfer Printing Aim This study aims to develop a design idea using drawing, digital printing and transfer printing process for the coloring and patterning textile design.

70 Transfer Printing Principle The computer-generated design can be printed on a transfer paper employing disperse-dye inks by an ink-jet printer. A color image will efficiently receive the transfer printing method with temperature and pressure by the heat transfer machine on polyester fabric.

71 Transfer Printing Material Fabric: White satin Pigment: Disperse Facility: Electro-Magnetic heat transfer printer Astex 1112 Materials/tools: Paper, paper plate, pencil, brushes

72 Transfer Printing Procedure Design idea on a A4 paper. Draw disperse pigments. Dry the pigment completely. Transfer pattern on polyester fabric with 200C for 30 seconds using a heat transfer printer.

73 Transfer Printing Material Fabric: White chiffon Pattern: Disperse dye printed paper, Astex 1112 Facility: Electro-Magnetic heat transfer printer Astex 1112 Tools: Pencil and scissors

74 Transfer Printing Procedure Place the printed motif and heat transfer onto polyester fabric with 200 C for 30 seconds. Create texture while the heat transfer process. Finishing.

75 Transfer Printing Sample 1 Design Idea / Design Development Waterfall

76 Transfer Printing Sample 1 Technique I began by mixing blue and red together to achieve a purple color and brushed it onto a tube. I then rolled the tube on to the newsprint. I pulled the weft yarns of the fabric to create a ripped effect because it holds it nicely in place. Placed the newsprint into the oven to dry completely. Took it out of the oven and placed a sheet of paper under the fabric, then the newsprint on top of the fabric, and then another piece of paper kind of like a sandwich. Pressed to printing press down to print at 200 C for 40 seconds. When finished removed all material.

77 Performance Transfer Printing Sample 1

78 Windmill

79 Luminescent Plankton

80 Cavemen

81 Beach

82 Whirlwind

83 Ivey

84 Rose Petals

85 Lace

86 China

87 Transfer Printing Scarf 1 Performance Group work

88 Module VI P R O J E C T

89 Project Aim When we as designers do something Just for Fashion by Shibori we give ourselves permission to break all rules, try new things. Often the results are more creative, more fun. Dyeing and transfer printing techniques, and individual design project should present complete design work(s). These represent an understanding of the relationship between the textile and clothing. Exploration of technique skills and development of personal style with appropriate media should be developed.

90 Project Principle Tie dye can preserve original color in particular areas of a fabric from due process when the fabric is dipped into the dye solution. The pattern is the result of tying, folding, stitching and clamping through shield treatments.

91 Project Material Design collection: 100% cotton t-shirt Dye: Direct

92 Project Procedure Fastening/clamping parts with specific forms where you want the original color to remain in the fabric. Some materials can be used such as rope, thread, wooden sticks, rubber bands, coins, marble clips etc. only heat-resistant materials may use in dyeing practice. Dye is employed in this class. Once the sample is soaked by water, the fabric is put in the dye vat with 100 C. Duration of dyeing based on personal design idea (dark or light). Folded fabric needs longer time to have saturated color. Stirring with spoon continuously. Rinse well in flowing water. Dropping the excess solution. Multicolor effect can be gained from repeat of steps 1 to 5. Dry up the fabric and untie to reveal design. Ironing and finishing.

93 Project T-Shirt 1 Design Idea / Design Development Jimmy Hendrix

94 Project T-Shirt 1 Technique I printed my brand on the back twice. Submerged whole t-shirt in yellow for thirty seconds and rubber banding off eight knots on both front and back.. Rubber banded eight knots on both front and back. Dipped in blue for fifteen seconds. Put tube in armholes and wrapped with rope. Scrunched. Dipped in red for fifteen seconds. Clamped eight popsicle sticks to the neckline of the garment. Dipped in red for fifteen seconds. Scrunch both front and back centers with rubber bands and dipped in red and blue for fifteen seconds each to create purple center. Dunked mid shirt in blue for fifteen seconds. Dunked ¼ shirt in red for fifteen seconds. Dunked 1/8 shirt in black for fifteen seconds. Drip dry.

95 Performance Project T-Shirt 1

Dyeing Fabric - Shibori Techniques By: ApeApe

1D Dyeing Fabric - Shibori Techniques By: ApeApe http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/dyeing-fabric-shibori-techniques Shibori is a method of resist dyeing that includes stitching, clamping and binding