HP LaserJet 1320 Teardown

Transcription

1 HP LaserJet 1320 Teardown The first laser printer teardown on ifixit Written By: jrw01 ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 1 of 35

2 INTRODUCTION The first laser printer teardown on ifixit. TOOLS: Metal Spudger Set (1) Tweezers (1) Phillips #0 Screwdriver (1) Phillips #1 Screwdriver (1) 8" Needle Nose Plier (1) Digital Multimeter (1) PoziDriv #0 Screwdriver (1) PoziDriv #1 Screwdriver (1) Screw Extracting Pliers (1) Snap Ring Pliers (1) Heavy-Duty Spudger (1) ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 2 of 35

3 Step 1 The Printer This teardown of the HP LaserJet 1320 is officially the first laser printer teardown on ifixit. It took almost 7 hours to take apart this amazingly complex printer. Spoiler alert: It's really nice to see something this repairable. Also, check out the complete repair guide for this printer! Step 2 Left Side Cover According to the service manual (there is a link in the documents section), the left cover of the printer can be opened without any tools by pulling on 2 tabs. The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 3 of 35

4 Step 3 Formatter Assembly Now on to the formatter. Remove 2 screws on the I/O port cover. Remove 6 screws on the formatter cover. Disconnect 3 connectors to the laser assembly, the cartridge connector, and the control panel. Disconnect 2 flat flexible cables to the laser assembly and the control board. While the service manual says not to use a PoziDriv screwdriver, I found that using a normal Phillips screwdriver on the screws in this printer would require excess force and damage the screws, but a PoziDriv screwdriver removed the screws without causing any damage. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 4 of 35

5 Step 4 Chips on the formatter: PCA9551 I2C LED Blinker. I never knew there was a chip with the sole purpose of blinking LEDs. STMicroelectronics E6V2HP SN74LVC Bit Bus Interface SC414445VF Proprietary ASIC K4S281632F-UC75 128Mb (16MB) SDRAM 74LVC573A Octal D-type Transparent Latch MR27V3202F 32Mb (4MB) One-time Programmable ROM ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 5 of 35

6 Step 5 More chips on the formatter... AT24C64 64Kb (8KB) 2-Wire Serial EEPROM LD1117 Low Drop Voltage Regulator The large gray object on the right is a 100-pin DIMM slot for expanding the internal memory. Step 6 Right Side Cover Removing the right cover is as easy as disengaging 3 tabs with the printer turned on its side. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 6 of 35

7 Step 7 Back Cover The back cover can be removed by removing 4 screws on the back of the printer. Step 8 Duplexer Tray The duplexer tray can be removed by pulling outwards on the blue green blue-green tab, which releases the magnets that hold the tray in place. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 7 of 35

8 Step 9 Top Cover Remove 2 screws on the back of the printer, one on the left side, and one on the front. Step 10 Top Cover After disconnecting the control panel cable, the top cover can be removed. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 8 of 35

9 Step 11 Control Panel The control panel and its circuit board can easily be removed with a metal spudger. Step 12 Laser Assembly Remove one cable from the laser assembly. Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 9 of 35

10 Step 13 After removing the cover and the clips holding in the lenses, the inside of the laser assembly can be seen. The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found. Step 14 The board mounted on the side of the laser assembly contains the infrared laser diode and a photodiode to sense the beam direction. It has a chip marked as RH4-5444, for which no datasheet could be found. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 10 of 35

11 Step 15 Fan Disconnect the fan cable from the control board on the back of the printer. Remove the retaining clip from the fan. Remove 2 screws holding in the fan. While the fan can not be completely removed yet, this will make it easier to take apart other parts of the printer. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 11 of 35

12 Step 16 Cartridge Connector Remove 1 screw from the top of the cartridge connector. Remove 1 screw on the front of the cartridge connector. The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer. Step 17 Cable Clip The cable clip for the laser assembly cable can be removed from the chassis. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 12 of 35

13 Step 18 Duplexer PCB Disconnect the duplexer cable from the control board. Disconnect the duplexer solenoid cable from the duplexer PCB. Remove one screw from the PCB and remove the PCB from the printer. This tiny board contains 2 NPN transistors marked C2120 and C1815, which are used to drive the duplexer solenoid. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 13 of 35

14 Step 19 Duplexer Gears Remove 3 screws on the duplexer gear assembly. The duplexer gearbox can now be removed. Remove one screw holding down the duplexer solenoid. This appears to be a standard 24V open-frame solenoid, although no markings were found on it. Step 20 Safety Interlock Remove 3 screws to remove the safety interlock assembly. Disconnect 2 spade connectors from the microswitch. The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 14 of 35

15 Step 21 Fan Cable The fan cable can now be derouted from the cable guide and the fan can be removed. Step 22 The fan is a standard 24V brushless fan with a speed sensor manufactured by Nidec. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 15 of 35

16 Step 23 Main Gear Assembly Disconnect 2 cables from the control board. Remove the gear from the fuser shaft. Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide. Step 24 Main Gear Assembly Remove 4 screws to remove the main gear assembly. Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 16 of 35

17 Step 25 Cartridge Door The cartridge door can be removed by removing 2 screws on the front of the printer. Step 26 Pickup Roller The pickup roller can now be removed by rotating the white tabs upwards and pulling them out. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 17 of 35

18 Step 27 Registration Assembly Remove 2 screws to remove the paper feed bar. Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly. Step 28 Fuser Gears Remove one gear on the output shaft of the fuser. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 18 of 35

19 Step 29 Tray Connector Disconnect the cable to the tray connector and route it through the hole in the chassis. You are now halfway through the teardown. Step 30 Fuser Cables Disconnect 2 cables from the control board and remove them from the cable guide. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 19 of 35

20 Step 31 Fuser Cables Remove the cable guide from the chassis. Step 32 Fuser Cables Remove the cable guide on the other side of the chassis. Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 20 of 35

21 Step 33 Fuser Cables Disconnect the high voltage wire from the fuser. Step 34 Fuser Cables Deroute the tray connector cable through the cable guide. Disconnect the main motor cable. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 21 of 35

22 Step 35 Fuser Remove 3 screws from the right side of the printer. Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer. Step 36 The fuser can now be removed from the printer. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 22 of 35

23 Step 37 Remove one screw on the front of the fuser. Remove one screw on the top of the fuser. The paper output assembly can now be removed. Step 38 Remove one spring and one screw from each side of the fuser. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 23 of 35

24 Step 39 Remove the large springs at each side of the fuser by pushing in on the plastic inserts. The springs will fly out violently if you do not hold them with pliers. Remove one screw on the fuser. Step 40 Remove the metal piece held down by the spring on each side of the fuser. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 24 of 35

25 Step 41 The fuser roller can be removed from the printer. The white wires on the left connect to a temperature sensor. The large connector on the right connects to the heating element and a thermal fuse. Step 42 Disconnect the snap-on connector from the right side of the fuser roller. The heating element can be removed from its channel in the roller. The heating element is a 576-watt thick film ceramic heater. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 25 of 35

26 Step 43 Remove the plastic clip from both sides of the roller. The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way. Step 44 After removing the metal cover, the temperature sensor (red) and the thermal fuse (orange) can be removed. The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 26 of 35

27 Step 45 After removing the plastic clip, the soft foam pressure roller can be removed. The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector. Step 46 Remove 2 screws to remove the metal bar from the fuser. After removing one screw, this small circuit board can be removed. The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 27 of 35

28 Step 47 Midframe Remove 4 screws on each side of the printer to remove the metal midframe piece that holds the chassis together. The massive control board can now be seen. Step 48 Feed Plate Remove the metal feed plate from the paper feed mechanism. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 28 of 35

29 Step 49 Control Board Cables Remove the tray connector and motor cables from the cable guide. The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly) Step 50 Control Board Remove one screw holding down the tray connector cable guide and then remove the cable guide. Remove one screw on the printer chassis. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 29 of 35

30 Step 51 Control Board Remove 2 screws from the left side of the chassis. Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis. Step 52 Control Board Bend the chassis to allow the control board to come loose, and disconnect the 2 cables to the paper feed assembly to remove the control board. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 30 of 35

31 HP LaserJet 1320 Teardown Step 53 Control Board Remove 4 screws on the control board to remove it from the metal plate. Here are the major components on the top side of the control board: Step 54 ifixit CC BY-NC-SA 2SK3561 Switching regulator MOSFET CR8KM-12A Thyristor (Most likely for fuser control) YG862C15R Schottky Barrier Diode Unidentified high-voltage transformers 220uF 200V capacitor Main switching transformer Page 31 of 35

32 Step 55 Chips on the back of the board: STMicroelectronics 324 E9SU518 - Possibly an LM324 Quad Op Amp? STMicroelectronics 339 E9W Possibly an LM339 Quad Comparator? Unidentified Texas Instruments chip with the part number sanded off. A2714 Power MOSFET Large QFP chip with the part number sanded off and a red and a blue mark on top. Interestingly, all the chips were covered in a clear coating that made it hard to read the part numbers. It appears that whoever designed this board was trying to prevent reverse engineering by making it hard to read the part numbers on the chips. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 32 of 35

33 Step 56 Main Motor The main motor can be removed after unclipping the cable guide and removing 3 screws. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 33 of 35

34 Step 57 The motor is a Nidec RK2-0419, which appears to be appears to be a fairly powerful "outrunner" style brushless motor rated for 1.3A at 24V. The rotor (the round metal part) is about 3 inches in diameter and the entire motor weighs about 15 ounces. This motor might be a special motor designed for use in this printer, as it and many other components have a number with the format RK2-0xxx on them. The single chip on the motor is a BD6761FS Brushless Motor Driver. At this point, all that is left of the printer is the metal chassis and the paper feed assembly, a large chunk of plastic containing 2 more beam interrupt sensors. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 34 of 35

35 Step 58 This printer receives a perfect repairability score of 10/10. No adhesives, thermoplastic staking, spot welding, or rivets are used. Service manuals for this and most HP printers are easy to find and free. Replacement parts are easy to find. Printer is designed to be repaired. This document was last generated on :28:45 PM. ifixit CC BY-NC-SA Page 35 of 35