Cutting Edge: Lasers and Creativity Symposium: Loughborough University School of Art and Design

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1 Cutting Edge: Lasers and Creativity Symposium: Loughborough University School of Art and Design 4th November 2009 Jakob Schlaepfer: A vision for innovation enabled by laser technologies Co-authors: Robert Huddleston and Dr Paul Whittaker University of Southampton 1

2 Jakob Schlaepfer: A vision for innovation enabled by laser technologies Abstract: Lasers have become a commonplace technology in mass produced textiles, notably in cutting and surface treatments. For companies such as Jakob Schlaepfer however, lasers are increasingly integral to the innovation process. This presentation focuses on Schlaepfer with the aim to offer a picture of the development and expansion of laser technologies as tools for creative design and production in the textile industry. Founded on the textile history of St Gallen, Switzerland, Schlaepfer s name has become synonymous with high standards of design and the manufacture of some of the worlds most futuristic decorative fabrics. Contrary to perceptions of traditionally based manufacturing industries, Schlaepfer led by Creative Director Martin Leuthold, take a very forward thinking approach to working with researchers, universities, manufacturers and engineers. Through case study material, we exemplify some of the key methods employed by the company with the aim of demonstrating how flexible integrated approaches to laser technology and specialist materials can enable innovation process. In particular, the illustrated material details Schlaepfer s mixed media methods, by referencing the transfer of tradition to innovation, the customisation of machinery and three-dimensional composé fabrics in the context of laser applications. Key words: customisation, experimentation, fabrics, futuristic, innovation, lasers, mixed media. Figure 1: Secret Garden

3 Jakob Schlaepfer: A vision for innovation enabled by laser technologies This presentation offers a picture of the development and innovative application of laser technologies undertaken by Jakob Schlaepfer of St Gallen, Switzerland. Through case study material, the aim is to illustrate how for Schlaepfer, lasers form an integral part of the innovation process and how their laser development can be best understood if seen in relation to the flexible infrastructure of the company and its textile history. Three case studies will illustrate different interconnected methods that underpin Schlaepfer s innovation process. The first case study will introduce the move from manual to laser cutting, the second will illustrate the transfer of tradition to innovation through embroidery, and the third study will present the importance of three-dimensional composé techniques in anticipating laser applications. Figure 2: Balmain, Spring Summer

4 Jakob Schlaepfer is renowned worldwide for the creation of innovative decorative fabrics, for Haute Couture and Prêt-à-Porter de luxe collections, exclusive ranges for couturiers, designing for royals and since 2008, for its own Décor collection. The company s most recent awards include the Première Vision 2009 Imagination Prize, the Best of the Best red dot award 2009 for the Décor fabric Phantom and the Highest Distinction for Design Quality red dot award for the Décor wall covering collection Glinka. Schlaepfer was founded in 1904 as an embroidery business in St. Gallen. Originating from the manufacture of high quality linen canvas in the High- Middle-Ages, the area of St Gallen became distinguished in the 18th century for the production of fine cotton mousseline and during the early industrialisation period of the 19th century, for the design and manufacture of embroidery. Since the 1970 s, Schlaepfer s diversification from traditional embroidery has been supported by the in-house customisation and integration of diverse fabrication techniques and materials. An example of this is the production of sequined fabrics that require relations between high precision engineering, embroidery, ink jet printing, coatings and intricate manual processes. Figure 3: Akris, Spring Summer

5 For creative director, Martin Leuthold, history is important to contemporary innovation. He has stated that St Gallen s eight centuries of continuous evolution continues to inspire future-oriented design ideas and methods. Embroidery is no longer a luxury. It is much more commonplace and is produced to a good standard all over the world, [so] St Gallen has to move forward creatively [by continuously] reinterpreting its history. Schlaepfer s investment in constant evolution can be exemplified by its flexible approach to technologies such as lasers. In 1996, Leuthold began researching the possibility of transferring industrial laser technologies from fields such as medicine and the automotive industry to textiles. Inspired by the prospect of revitalising traditional embroidery appearances such as broderie anglaise, the aim of the research was to explore and reinvent manual practices such as textile cutting through electronic mechanisation. Figure 4: Scherrer 5

6 Case study 1: the move from manual to laser cutting textiles The move from manual to laser cutting textiles firstly involved testing the feasibility of the proposal and secondly investigating industrial laser systems suitable for advancing Schlaepfer s experimental mixed-media methods. Although the initial advice of textile engineers indicated that the power of the laser beam would be too great for textile applications, Leuthold successfully proved the basic feasibility of the proposal. This was achieved by conducting practical tests on textile samples using lasercutting facilities at a metals factory in St Gallen. Investigation into systems suitable for Schlaepfer s industrial production began by researching potential laser manufacturers. In 1996 Leuthold sourced a company in Germany that had already produced laser machinery applicable to textile applications for the automotive industry; for example, for cutting complex fabric shapes for the production of air bags. Research and development undertaken at the laser company in Germany enabled the production of Schlaepfer s earliest laser cut textile in 1997 (Figure 5) and facilitated the construction of its first lasercutting machine for textile design applications. Consistent with the company s commitment to an approach that enables technical conventions and methods to be challenged, the machine was brought in-house to St Gallen at the earliest opportunity: As Leuthold has stated, research and development must always be with the actual production machinery [as this enables the necessary] control of quality standards, opportunities for experimental prototyping and the development of technologies as an integral part of the innovation process. Figure 5: Gigli, Autumn Winter 1998/99 6

7 Case study 2: The transfer of tradition to innovation through embroidery. The history of Schlaepfer relates strongly to the gradual mechanisation of the embroidery industry in St Gallen. The introduction of specialised embroidery machinery to the area enabled the replication, through serial production methods, of complicated craft-based techniques and delicate effects, such as broderie anglaise, cutwork, soutache, etched embroidery and guipures. As the list of techniques introduced by Schlaepfer demonstrates (page 10), its embroidery practices since the 1960 s have exceeded the opportunities offered by conventional mechanisation. Significantly, Schlaepfor experimented with versatile mixed-media processes that progressively replaced traditional industrial methods with more innovative practices. Embroidery and laser applications differently influence the stability and structural integrity of fabrics. Schlaepfer s experience of embroidery enabled the company to develop a hybridtechnology known as Emboscan that unconventionally integrates distinct but complementary techniques. Emboscan thereby demonstrates the transfer of tradition to innovation by fusing embroidery with a newly available technology. Similarly it offers opportunities to re-evaluate traditional motifs and practices through its interdisciplinary capacities. Figure 6: Moschino 7

8 Case study 3: Composé techniques anticipating the use of lasers; The term composé refers to fabrics that are composed through an indeterminate range of often-improvised techniques and materials. Composé methods regularly encompass intricate manual techniques, such as sewing with appliqué details, plissés, ribbons and embossed fabrics. They also often require the in-house adaptation of machinery, such as transfer applications and the construction of new processes for specific designs. Schlaepfer s introduction of composé techniques and methods paved the way for the company to develop laser technologies and in particular innovate through lasers because composé encourages an open-ended approach to manufacture and design, and a synthesis of diverse improvised fabrication techniques, especially of a three dimensional nature. Having established creative practices able to make the best use of lasers, Schlaepfer was then able to recognize the imaginative and technical scope of its laser technologies, expand the opportunities afforded by composé and facilitate previously unavailable design prospects. Figure 7: Georges Chakra, Spring Summer

9 Conclusion The presentation has introduced a picture of the development and expansion of laser technologies at Jakob Schlaepfer; and the case studies have illustrated how lasers can form an integral part of the innovation process; and how laser development and innovation can be best advanced if intimately related to a flexible infrastructure of an industry. Primarily, the presentation has proposed that craft, design and technology might best enable creativity and result in innovation if they are treated as interdependent and holistically explored. Key to Schlaepfer s innovation process, is the development and integration of diverse technologies as tools for creative design and production. Schlaepfer s continuing commitment to this approach to design and manufacture can be further exemplified by a project that both expands upon the use of lasers in textiles while demonstrating how much can still be achieved. Schlaepfer are currently researching laser applications in relation to advanced materials through industry and academic research involving Cheryl Welsh, Robert Huddleston and other University of Southampton researchers in optoelectronics and material science. The project intends to prove valuable in advancing technology and design development but in doing so, proposes that much more remains to be explored. Figure 8: Chanel, Autumn Winter 1999/2000 9

10 Appendix 1 Since the 1960 s, Schlaepfer has developed and introduced a diverse range of new processes, including: 1963 Acquisition from Arnold Ochsner of the world patent for sequin production on shuttle embroidery machines Introduction of computers 1973 Introduction of composé techniques 1975 Development of thermo-fixable paste gems in cooperation with Swarovski 1983 Purchase from Akira Kurihara of the world patent for the transfer application machine 1985 Development of the marvel print technique 1993 Development of textile metal fabrics and start of cooperation with Création Baumann for interiors 1998 Development and expansion of laser technology 2001 Inkjet printing section 2006 Emboscan Figure 9: André Courregés, 1969 Photograph Peter Knapp 10