ISSN 1392 1320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDŽIAGOTYRA). Vol. 18, No. 4. 2012 The Influence of the Properties of Emroidery Threds on Buckling of Fric Inside of the Emroidered Element Svetln RADAVIČIENĖ 1, Mild JUCIENĖ 1, Žnet JUCHNEVIČIENĖ 1, Lin ČEPUKONĖ 1, Tds KLEVECKAS 1, Violet NARVILIENĖ 2 1 Deprtment of Clothing nd Polymer Products Technology, Kuns University of Technology, Studentų 56, LT-51424 Kuns, Lithuni 2 Textile Institute of Stte Scientific Reserch Institute Center for Physicl Sciences nd Technology, Demokrtų 53, LT-48485 Kuns, Lithuni http://dx.doi.org/1755/j01.ms.18.4.3100 Received 30 June 2011; ccepted 28 Decemer 2011 In production of grments, emroidery crries out vriety of functions, one of which is the esthetic ppernce of the product improvement. The resulting defects, re seen s negtive indictor of the product qulity. The discrepncy of the emroidered element to the digitl design in size is defect, which is influenced y the emroidery threds, emroidery mterils properties nd process prmeters. The fric sorrounded y the emroidery threds etween djncent needle penetrtions inside of the emroidered element is compressed, uckling. The im of this pper is to investigte the influence of the properties of emroidery threds on uckling of fric inside of the emroidered element. For investigtions specimens were prepred using different fire composition, density nd liner structure of the emroidery threds. Specimens were cut nd photo-cptured t the eginning, middle nd end of the emroidered element. It ws found, tht different properties of the emroidery threds ffecting on the different ehvior of fric inside of the emroidered element. The results of the investigtions showed tht the fric inside of the emroidered element formed lrger wves of uckling using the mximum elongtion of the feedck exhiiting emroidery thred. Keywords: emroidery threds, emroidered element, fric, uckling. 1. INTRODUCTION Improvement of estheticl grment ppernce, communiction of informtionl content nd ssurnce of sfety represent the functions crried out y emroidery in production of grments. Assemling of textiles into system y n emroidery process is similr to ssemling y sewing process. In oth cses, ssemling of textiles is crried out employing stitch. In the course of emroidery nd sewing processes, threds re ffected y dynmic lods, multiple ending, friction, rsion, etc. This results in dmge of threds, decrese of strength of threds nd deformtion thereof. The results of the investigtions showed tht different response of sewing threds to n externl impct is determined y fire composition of threds [1 8]. Fric shrinkge fter the sewing process my e cused y the relxtion processes [9, 10] oserved in threds nd y properties of textiles [11]. Investigtions showed tht thred shrinkge fter the sewing process, thus sem puckering my lso e influenced y the prmeters of the sewing mchine, interction of the sewing thred nd fric with sewing mchine [12, 13]. Qulity of the emroidered element my lso e relted to the stility prolem of stitch length. Investigtions of chnges in stitch length during the sewing process hve shown tht technicl condition of the sewing mchine nd technicl prmeters, friction forces occurring etween the fric nd mteril of sewing mchine during Corresponding uthor. Tel.: +370-37-300205; fx.: +370-37-353989. E-mil ddress: svetln.rdviciene@stud.ktu.lt (S.Rdvičienė) 373 trnsporttion hve n influence on stle stitch length [14 16]. Occurrence of emroidery defects my e relted to the properties of oth emroidery threds nd textiles. The results of the investigtions showed, tht different emroidery/stitching ptterns my e employed to chnge mechnicl properties of the fric, strength, stility nd formility thereof [17, 18]. Formility hs een determined to define sem tendency to puckering [19]. Tension of threds during sewing compresses the fric in the plce of stitching. As soon s lnce etween tension of threds nd compression of the fric is chieved, force stress is decresed [19]. Inside of the emroidered element, the textile is compressed nd uckled. Anlysis of the results of the investigtions with respect to uckling nd compression of textiles hs served s sis for determining tht gret influence on deformtion ehviour is mde y fric structure, direction nd mechnicl properties [20 23]. The fctors hving n influence on the qulity of the sem, i. e. properties of textiles nd sewing threds, technologicl prmeters of the sewing mchine, etc., represent the issues widely investigted y reserchers of vrious countries [7, 9, 10, 12]. An influence of stitching pttern direction, plce nd density on deformtion ehviour of frics hs een nlysed [17]. However, sewing nd emroidery process hs severl essentil differences such s: the stitch lnce, the stitch density, the trnsporttion mechnism of fric, usge of interlinings (cking mterils), needles nd etc. Assemling of textiles y n emroidery process hs een
investigted y the Russin scientist A. Chernenko [24]. In order to optimise emroidery process prmeters, ehviour of emroidery rticles during usge hs een studied [25]. However, ssemling of textiles into system y n emroidery process nd fctors influencing the qulity of the emroidered element hs not een studied rodly. The im of the pper is to investigte the influence of the properties of emroidery threds on uckling of frics inside the emroidered element. 2. MATERIALS AND METHODS For investigtion of the influence of the properties of emroidery threds on uckling of frics inside the emroidered element, emroidery threds of different fire composition, vrious liner density nd structure were selected. By purpose, emroidery threds re grouped into upper nd lower emroidery threds. Chrcteristics of emroidery threds re presented in Tle 1. Tensile testings of emroidery threds hve een crried out in stndrd testing environment under the conditions estlished y stndrd ISO 139. Tensile chrcteristics of emroidery threds hve een determined on the sis of Stndrd ISO 2062. Tensile testings hve een crried out y the tensile mchine Zwick/Z005. Initil guge length of the test smple ws 250 mm, movement speed of clmps ws 250 mm/min nd initil pretension ws 0.25 cn/tex. Anlysis of mechnicl hysteresis of sewing threds hs een crried out y the tensile mchine Zwick/Z005. In the course of nlysis, lod of 2 N ws suddenly pplied to specimens nd eliminted immeditely, returning the lower clmp to the initil position. Distnce etween clmps ws 250 mm, movement speed of clmps ws 250 mm/min, 1 lod cycle ws performed. Aginst the otined curves of mechnicl hysteresis, prmeters of emroidery threds such s totl strin, elstic strin nd remining strin were determined. During nlysis, y 10 specimens of emroidery threds of ech sort hve een tested, verges of vlues of reserch results s well s vrition fctors hve een clculted. In ll cses, vrition fctor did not exceed 7.7 %. For nlysis, plin weve linen fric ws selected. Chrcteristics of the fric were the following: fric thickness ws equl 0.3 mm, surfce density ws equl 150 g/m 2, density in the direction of wrp ws equl 19.9 cm 1, density in the direction of weft ws equl 18.4 cm 1. Liner density of wrp nd weft threds ws equl 26.3 tex. During nlysis, n emroidery re ws filled forming ech stitch from one edge of the emroidery pttern to nother. An emroidered element with width C t = 7; 6; 4 nd 3 mm, nd with length of 60 mm ws used. The digitl imge ws generted pplying Wilcom ES (Emroidery Softwre) 2006 Softwre Pckge. For investigtions, utomted emroidery mchine Brudn BEVT-Z901CA ws used nd emroidery process speed of 700 stitches per minute ws pplied. For investigtion y six specimens in the directions of wrp nd weft were emroidered (using different emroidery threds). Specimens were photo-cptured t the eginning, in the middle nd t the end of the element. Specimen 3 (Fig. 1, ) ws cut round the emroidered element leving the cut edges of the fric of 15 mm. At the eginning, in the middle nd t the end, the element ws cut just efore fstening into clmps. The prepred specimen ws fstened into clmps 5 nd 6 of originl structure, t distnce A 2 mm from the emroidered element to clmps (Fig. 1, ). Specimens were photo-cptured y digitl cmer Olympus E620 1 with resolution of 4032 3024 pixels. For photogrphy, lens Sigm AF-MF Zoom Lens 105 mm F2.8 EX DG Mcro ws used. Scheme of the emroidered element imge is presented in Fig. 1,. Cmer 1 ws fstened on the support, wheres the centre of the cmer lens ws locted t the sme level s the centrl line of specimen 3. Clmps 5 nd 6 with specimen 3 were put to specil ox in order to void the influence of externl light sources. For photogrphy, ckground of contrsting colour, i. e. lck in this cse, ws pplied. Distnce etween specimen 3 nd cmer 1 is X 0.35 m. For illumintion of the smple, two light sources 2 (power of light source is 20 W) were used. Distnce from light source X 1 = X 1 0.1 m. Angle etween the specimen nd light propgtion direction Φ = Φ = 45. For mesuring ctul geometric prmeters (emroidery width, emroidery height D f, wve height inside the emroidered element E f, wve length inside the emroidered element F f ) of the emroidered element, ImgeJ Softwre Pckge ws used. The shpe of the wve inside the emroidered element ws otined vi mnul mrking-out pplying Corel Drw X5 Softwre Pckge. Dt otined during investigtions ws processed sttisticlly. The coefficient of vrition of test results rnged from 0.40 % to 9.80 %. Tle 1. Chrcteristics of emroidery threds Mrk Rw mteril Structure Liner density, tex Elongtion, % Totl strin ε, % Reversile strin ε t, % Remining strin ε l, % * 100 % PES Two-ply yrn, multifilment 30.2 38.55 3.44 2.86 8 * 40 % metllic, 60 % CV Comined, two-ply yrn, monofilment thred nd multifilment thred 26.4 30.73 3.98 3.16 0.82 * 100 % CV Two-ply yrn, multifilment 27.8 22.16 12.31 3.19 9.13 * 100 % cotton Two-ply yrn 4 5.07 1.36 0.79 7 SA1** 100 % PES Two-ply yrn 24.7 20.77 7.32 2.95 4.37 * is upper emroidery thred; ** is lower emroidery thred. 374
3 5 A 3 A 6 Φ Φ X 1 X 1 2 2 4 X 1 Fig. 1. Illustrtion of fixing of the emroidered specimen () nd photo-cptured of the emroidered specimen y digitl cmer (): A distnce from the clmp to the emroidered element; 1 digitl cmer; 2 light source; 3 specimen; 4 ruler for imge clirtion; 5 sttionry clmp; 6 moile clmp 3. EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS AND DISCUSSION To crry out nlysis of geometric prmeters of the emroidered element, the following distinctions with respect to mesurement of the prmeters shll e discussed. An ssumption is mde tht: theoreticl width of the emroidered element C t is equl to designed width of the digitl imge C d; theoreticl height of the emroidered element D t is equl to thickness of the emroidery fric nd thickness of emroidery threds; theoreticlly, the fric inside the emroidered element is stright; theoreticl mount of the fric inside the emroidered element F t is equl to theoreticl width of the emroidered element C t. Anlysis of the investigtion results hs demonstrted tht ctul prmeters of the emroidered element re different from theoreticl prmeters in ll cses. Theoreticl nd ctul geometric chrcteristics of the emroidered element nd mesurement scheme thereof re presented in Figure 2. Anlysis of investigtion results shows tht ctul height of the emroidered element D f (Tle 2) is greter thn theoreticl height of the emroidered element D t. Tle 2. Height of emroidered element Direction of fric Theoreticl width of emroidery element C t, mm Emroidery thred 7 3.1 ±0.11 1.8 ±6 2.0 ±9 2.3 ±8 6 3.1 ±4 1.7 ±6 1.8 ±1 1.9 ±1 4 1.8 ±1 1.4 ±2 1.4 ±2 1.6 ±1 3 1.4 ±0.13 1.3 ±6 1.3 ±5 ±0.14 7 2.9 ±6 1.7 ±6 1.6 ±3 1.9 ±2 6 1.9 ±2 1.6 ±1 1.4 ±2 1.8 ±7 4 1.3 ±2 1.2 ±1 1.2 ±1 1.6 ±5 3 1.3 ±3 1.3 ±3 1.1 ±2 1.4 ±0.11 375 It shll e noted tht height vlues of the elements emroidered with different emroidery threds demonstrte uneven distriution. In lmost ll cses, i.e. during emroidery of test smples in the directions of wrp or weft of the fric, the gretest height vlues D f of the emroidered element were typicl of the specimens emroidered with polyester threds nd pplying lmost ll emroidery widths, i. e. when width C d of the designed digitl imge is equl to 7, 6, 4 mm. Investigtions demonstrted tht gret height vlues of the emroidered element were chrcteristic of the specimens emroidered in the directions of wrp nd weft with emroidery threds. This fct my e relted to liner density of cotton emroidery threds tht is the gretest mong ll the threds selected for nlysis, i. e. 4 tex. During emroidery in the direction of wrp, the lowest height vlues of the emroidered element were demonstrted y the test smples emroidered with metllised emroidery threds. Unevenness of height vlues D f of emroidered elements my e determined y different structure of emroidery threds, different liner density, different fire composition, etc. Former investigtions hve illustrted tht significnt elstic elongtions with reversile nture re typicl of polyester emroidery threds [8]. Reversile deformtion is chrcteristic of polymeric odies. The deformtion disppers grdully fter removl of externl forces. Due to the relxtion processes occurring in threds, emroidery threds feturing significnt reversile elongtion will shrink fter certin time from emroidery, therey cusing uckling of the fric inside the emroidered element. Between emroidery stitches, eing covered with emroidery threds, the textile is compressed nd uckled inside the emroidered element. Inside the element emroidered with different emroidery threds, formtion of wves with different height nd different shpe ws oserved. Formtion of the wves (Fig. 3) with the gretest height vlues inside the emroidered elements emroidered with polyester emroidery ws oserved for lmost ll cses pplying width C t = 7, 6, 4 nd 3 mm of the designed digitl imge. Formtion of the wves with the lowest height vlues inside the emroidered element ws demonstrted y the specimens emroidered with metllised emroidery threds contining viscose. It
Teoreticl element C t = C d; F t = C t. Actul element < C t; D f >D t; ΔC = C t ; E f > 0 ; F f < F t. Fig. 2. Geometric prmeters of the emroidered element nd mesurement scheme thereof shll e pointed out tht the ctul wve height inside the emroidered element E f ws lso influenced y the direction of the fric emroidered (wrp or weft). In ll the cses nlysed, the wves hving formed inside the elements emroidered in the direction of weft were estlished to e lower compred to ones inside the elements emroidered in the direction of wrp. The present sitution is influenced y lower ending rigidity vlue in the direction of weft of the fric. Formtion of the wvewith certin shpe nd height my e cused y shifting (slippge) of fric threds t the sides of the emroidered element nd y different fric density in the directions of wrp nd weft. Anlysis of the shpes of the curves presented (Fig. 4) hs demonstrted tht formtion of the wves with the gretest height vlues E f ws chrcteristic of the elements emroidered with polyester emroidery threds in ll cses. This fct my e explined y the gret vlue of reversile strin of emroidery threds. Investigtions hve demonstrted significnt difference of the wve shpe during emroidery with different emroidery threds nd pplying digitl imge width C d = 7 mm. It should e noted tht flt S-shped wves hve formed inside the emroidered elements emroidered with metllised emroidery threds contining viscose nd with viscose emroidery threds. Pictures representing the shpes of the wves inside the emroidered elements under investigtion re presented in Fig. 4 nd Fig. 5. It shll e noted, tht decrese of digitl imge width in ll cses, i. e. emroidery with ll selected emroidery threds, leds to formtion of low wves inside the emroidered element, wheres threds of the fric re compressed forming n uneven contour of the wve (Fig. 5). The foresid sitution ws influenced y lower height vlues D f of the emroidered element. Appliction of the lowest emroidery width C t = 3 mm nd emroidery with ll selected emroidery threds in the direction of weft hve demonstrted the sme ctul height vlues of the wve of the emroidered element, i. e. 0.1 mm. Anlysis of ctul height vlues E f of the specimens emroidered in the direction of wrp hs shown tht the gretest vlue ws chrcteristic of the specimens emroidered with emroidery threds. Ef Ef Ef Ef Emroidery threds Emroidery threds Emroidery threds c Emroidery threds d Fig. 3. Height of the wve inside the emroidered element: digitl imge width of 7 mm; digitl imge width of 6 mm; c digitl imge width of 4 mm; d digitl imge width of 3 mm Buckling of the fric inside the emroidered element hs resulted in nrrowing of the emroidered element. It 376
E f 1.1 0.7 0.3 E f 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1-0.1 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 2.0 2.5 3.0 E f 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 Fig. 4. The uckling wve curves, when C d = 7 mm : in the direction of wrp; in the direction of weft shll e pointed out tht ctul width of the emroidered element in ll cses is lower thn width of the designed digitl imge emroidered element C t. Appliction of designed width of the digitl imge C d = 7 mm hs demonstrted the gretest difference, i. e. mounting to 24 %, etween width vlues of the emroidered element emroidered with emroidery threds in the direction of wrp. The lowest difference etween the foresid vlues hs een shown y the emroidered elements emroidered with metllised emroidery threds contining viscose in the direction of wrp, nd it mounted to 12 %. It shll e noted tht the gretest nrrowing vlue, i. e. 25 %, with respect to width of the emroidered element emroidered with polyester threds hs lso een demonstrted y the element emroidered in the direction of weft, when digitl imge width C d = 7 mm. Decrese of the ctul width vlues of the emroidered element could e influenced oth y relxtion ehviour of emroidery threds nd shifting of fric threds t the sem. The present sitution could e cused y different fric density in the directions of wrp nd weft. Usully, sem slippge is oserved in frics, prticulrly in twill weve frics, steen, plin weve frics, etc. Previous investigtions hve demonstrted tht slippge of fric threds t the sem my e defined y shifting of fric threds due to the force pplied perpendiculr to the sem [26]. Theoreticl mount of the fric inside the emroidered element F t hs een ssumed to e equl to theoreticl designed width of the emroidered element C t. In the idel cse, ctul width of the emroidered element shll lso e equl to C t. Anlysis of the results of the investigtions, however, hs demonstrted tht fetures lower vlues in ll cses. The present ehviour of the emroidered element ws influenced y rnge of fctors 377 E f 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 2.0 2.5 3.0 Fig. 5. The uckling wve curves, when C d = 3 mm: in the direction of wrp; in the direction of weft such s relxtion processes in emroidery threds fter the emroidery process, fric density, ending rigidity, formility, etc. In ll cses, ctul mount of the fric inside the emroidered element F f hs een estlished to feture greter vlues compred to ctul width of the emroidered element, nd this difference mounted to 2 % 12 %. It shll e emphsised tht ppliction of greter width of the emroidered element hs demonstrted tht the gretest shift of fric threds inside the emroidered element is oserved t needle insertion plces, wheres the wve contour is lmost even, i. e. no considerle compression of fric threds hs een noticed. Decrese of width of the emroidered element leds to significnt increse of compression of fric threds nd to formtion of the wve with complex configurtion. Slippge of fric threds t the edges of the emroidered element nd compression of fric threds (uneven wve contour) inside the emroidered element mke ccurte mesurement of fric mount inside the emroidered element very complicted. 4. CONCLUSIONS In lmost ll cses, i. e. during emroidery with ll emroidery threds selected for investigtion in the direction of wrp nd weft, the gretest height vlues of the emroidered element hve een demonstrted y the test smples emroidered with polyester threds. Appliction of the gretest width of the digitl imge (7 mm) hs een estlished to demonstrte the gretest difference etween width vlues of the emroidered element emroidered with polyester emroidery threds in the direction of wrp nd weft nd width vlues C d of the digitl imge. Decrese of width vlues of the emroidered element could e influenced oth y relxtion ehviour of emroidery threds nd shifting of fric threds t the sem.
Wves with different height nd different shpe hve een noticed to form inside the emroidery element emroidered with different emroidery threds. Formtion of the wves with the lowest height vlues inside the emroidered element hs een demonstrted y the specimens emroidered with metllised emroidery threds contining viscose. The shpe of the wve inside the emroidered element hs lso een influenced y cut direction of the fric. In ll the cses nlysed, the wves hving formed inside the elements emroidered in the direction of weft hve een estlished to e lower compred to ones inside the elements emroidered in the direction of wrp. REFERENCES 1. Rudolf, A., Geršk, J., Ujhelyiov, A., Sfiligoj Smole, M. Study of PES Sewing Thred Properties Fiers nd Polymers 8 (2) 2007: pp. 212 217. 2. Rudolf, A., Geršk, J. Influence of Sewing Speed on the Chnges of Mechnicl Properties of Differently Twisted nd Luricted Threds during The Process of Sewing Tekstil 56 (5) 2007: pp. 271 277. 3. Ajiki, I., Postle, R. 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Presented t the 20th Interntionl Bltic Conference "Mterils Engineering 2011" (Kuns, Lithuni, Octoer 27 28, 2011) 378