KRISS KRINGLE CHRISTMAS STOCKING for 7 Variations MATERIALS LIST: (The above photos show a Kitchener Stitch toe) Yarn: In ounces: One (1) SuperSaver 7-oz skein each of red, green and white worsted. There will be enough to do at least 2 stockings, if not more. (I selected Red Heart yarn because I wanted stockings to hold their shape when hung. The colors I selected were Cherry Red and Paddy Green. Red Heart is an acrylic yarn, though you can use wool. In grams for ONE (1) Stocking: One (1) 100 gm ball each of red, green and white worsted (You may have quite a bit left over, especially if you use a lot of angora. You MIGHT be able to get away with one (1) 50-gm ball if that size is available, but I am not absolutely certain that one 50-gm ball will be enough, so I'm erring on the side of caution.) You will also need a small amount of pink, black and gold worsted. The original pattern called for black yarn for eyes, but feel free to change the eye color if you wish. Optional Yarn: 1 skein black Red Heart Shimmer yarn (if you want a shiny belt resembling a patent leather belt)
1 pull-skein DMC Gold Metallic Floss #5282* (if you want a shiny belt buckle) - if you select to use this floss, I suggest twisting it around the gold worsted yarn like a candy cane. Remember to knot the gold yarn with metallic floss at the beginning before twisting it. If you don t, the metallic floss will unwind. Another option would to be to look for gold yarn with metallic thread running through it if you can find it. White 100% angora yarn How much you need depends on what sections you want to use it for. (In my case, I used more than 2 but less than 3 full balls for Santa s hair, beard, the ball at the end of his cap, down the front of Santa s suit, cuffs, and along the bottom edge of his suit.) Although it s classified as bulky yarn, it is so thin that it needs to be combined into three strands to be equivalent to worsted. Two synthetic alternatives for angora are: YarnBee Effervesce (one of Hobby Lobby s house brands soft and fluffy) Beautiful by Pearl Essence (one of Jo-Ann Stores house brands feels very similar to angora) Knitting Needles: Although worsted weight yarn typically calls for a Size 8 needle, smaller needles are called for when knitting Kriss Kringle Christmas Stockings. Knitting with smaller needles will result in a studier fabric that will help the stocking maintain its shape better when hung and after years and years of use: 1 Pair of Size 2 U.S. / 3.25mm U.K. / 2.75mm European for ribbing only 14-inch needles (I know how ridiculously small this needle size sounds, but when I tried using Size 3 needles, the ribbing was too wide.) 1 Pair of Size 5 US / 3.75mm U.K. or European 14-inch needles (or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge). 1 Set (of 5) DPNs (double-point needles) the same larger size used above. NOTE: You may also use circular needles. However, if you are inexperienced with using them, be careful that, if you have to snug up stitches (explained later), you make sure that each stitch maintains the correct size. Needle Conversion: http://www.fibergypsy.com/common/needles.shtml The above link has been provided courtesy of FiberLink and The Fiber Gypsy - http://www.fibergypsy.com. Page 2 of 12
Yarn Bobbins: A minimum of 14 is suggested. A very inexpensive alternative is to wind yarn around wooden spring clothespins, using the spring to prevent the yarn from unwinding. If, however, you wish to purchase bobbins, I recommend the Clover brand. They allow you to keep your bobbin closer to your work than other brands.) Stitch Holders: 3 Brass Bells: Yarn Needle 5-6 bells, Size 12mm or slightly larger (You will need 6 if you use the original toe or 5 if you use the Kitchener Stitch toe.) 1 - must have an eye small enough to pass through a bell, but large enough that worsted weight can be threaded into it (either metal or plastic - as for myself, I found that metal needles seem to slide easier) Highlighter Row Counter Gauge: 5 sts = 1 inch 7 rows = 1 inch Length: Approximately 20 inches (add an additional 1½ inches for if you add ribbing) ABBREVIATIONS: Frog K K2Tog MC P P2Tog Sl To unravel stitches (rip it rip it rip it) Knit Knit 2 stitches together Main Color Purl Purl 2 stitches together Slip a stitch from the left needle onto the right needle without knitting (or purling) it. Slipping a knit stitch: Slip as if to knit if you are following a slipped stitch with a decrease. Slip as if to purl, if you are not following a slipped stitch with a decrease. Slipping a purl stitch: Slip as if to purl, whether you are decreasing or not. Page 3 of 12
SKP SPP Slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over a decrease. Slip as if to knit, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch and off the needle (like a cast-off stitch). Slip, purl, pass slipped stitch over a decrease. Slip as if to purl, purl the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch and off the needle. (Same things as SKP, but with a purl stitch instead of a knit stitch.) Stockinette Stitch *knit one row, purl the next row, repeat from * so that the front side of the work always shows a knit stitch St / Sts / st / sts Stitches INSTRUCTIONS: NOTE: Before beginning to knit, make sure that your chart is turned upside-down. Casting On: Original Pattern: With white yarn and Size 5 needles, cast on 62 sts. Remember to leave a long tail at the beginning to make a loop for hanging your stocking. Options 1 through 4: With red or green yarn (depending upon which color you would like the ribbing to be) yarn and Size 2 needles, cast on 60 sts. Option 5 (Extra-Large): With red or green yarn (depending upon which color you would like the ribbing to be) and Size 2 needles, cast on 72 sts. Option 6 (Jumbo): With red or green yarn (depending upon which color you would like the ribbing to be) and Size 2 needles, cast on 84 sts. Ribbing (All patterns EXCEPT Original): K2, P2 across for all 7 rows. (If you desire a longer ribbing, it is important that additional rows are added in sets of 2.) For the remainder of the stocking, work back and forth in Stockinette Stitch, following placement of colors and decreases on each side as shown in the chart for the pattern you choose. Page 4 of 12
Personalizing Your Stocking: To personalize your stocking in the white border, you will either knit the name into the stocking using the Fair-Isle method or use the Duplicate Stitch method after the stocking has been completed, using the alphabet chart provided as a guide. Change to Size 5 needles and continue with white yarn. Your first row is a purl row. Continue to knit according to your chart. Wind bobbins for each change of color, using small strand of Red for nose and mouth and small strand of Black for eyes. DO NOT CARRY YARN ACROSS BACK OF WORK EXCEPT on Rows 14, 15 and 16 for Original pattern or Rows 21, 22 and 23 for all other patterns - when changing from White to Green, and on Brick Design. On these rows, carry White strand when not using as follows: On Knit (K) row: Holding unused strand (White) taut over left forefinger, K first stitch as usual with Main Color (Red or Green). Then insert point of needle in next stitch and under the unused strand. With MC, K this stitch. Continue in this manner across row. On Purl (P) Row: Carry unused strand across wrong side of work in same manner as on K row, by P first stitch as usual, then hold unused strand away from work with left thumb and P next stitch. After working 86 rows, Sl 13 sts from each end onto stitch holders (Original) 93 rows, Sl 13 sts from each end onto stitch holders (Option 1) 95 rows, Sl 13 sts from each end onto stitch holders (Options 2-4) 95 rows, Sl 15 sts from each end onto stitch holders (Option 5) 95 rows, Sl 19 sts from each end onto stitch holders (Option 6) NOTE: For Options 1 through 6, if you increased the amount of ribbing rows, remember to increase the above amount of rows accordingly before slipping the above stitches. On the center stitches [28 sts for Original / 28 sts for Options 1-4 / 32 sts for Option 5 / 38 sts for Option 6], work instep by working 32 rows (the bricks) more from chart, making sure that you twist the last stitch on Rows 4, 10 and 16. Slip the center stitches onto another stitch holder. Page 5 of 12
To Shape Heel: Slip the heel stitches [13 sts from each end, totaling 26 heel sts for Original and Options 1 through 4 / 15 sts from each end, totaling 30 heel sts for Option 5 / 17 sts from each end, totaling 38 sts for Option 6)] onto one (1) double-point needle and, with red yarn, work as follows: P across row on wrong side. Row 1 (Right side of work) *Sl 1 as if to purl (because this is not a decrease), K 1, repeat from * across row. Row 2 Sl 1, then P across row. Repeat these two rows 11 times more (24 rows). To Turn Heel (Original and Options 1 through 4): Before turning the heel, give yourself sufficient time to complete Rows 1 through 10. Be careful not to leave gaps (holes). DO NOT WALK AWAY OR GET DISTRACTED WHILE KNITTING ROWS 1 13!!! Row 1 K 15, K2Tog, K 1, turn (25 sts remain on needle) Row 2 Sl 1, P 5, P2Tog, P 1, turn (24 sts remain on needle). Row 3 Sl 1, K 6, K2Tog, K 1, turn (23 sts remain on needle). Row 4 Sl 1, P 7, P2Tog, P 1, turn (22 sts remain on needle). Row 5 Sl 1, K 8, K2Tog, K 1, turn (21 sts remain on needle). Row 6 Sl 1, P 9, P2Tog, P 1, turn (20 sts remain on needle). Row 7 Sl 1, K 10, K2Tog, K 1, turn (19 sts remain on needle). Row 8 Sl 1, P 11, P2Tog, P 1, turn (18 sts remain on needle). Row 9 Sl 1, K 12, K2Tog, K 1, turn (17 sts remain on needle). Row 10 Sl 1, P 13, P2Tog, P 1, turn (16 sts remain on needle). Row 11 Sl 1, K 12, K2Tog, K 1, turn (15 sts remain on needle). Row 12 Sl 1, P 12, P2Tog (14 sts remain on needle), pick up and P 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the side of the heel, turn. (26 sts remain on needle). Row 13 K across the 26 sts on needle, pick up and K 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the other side of heel with the first stitch picked up being a red end stitch, turn (38 sts remain on needle). Row 14 P across row, turn. Row 15 SKP, K across row up to last 3 sts, (ending with) K2Tog, turn (36 sts remain on needle). Row 16 P across row, turn. Row 17 SKP, K across row to last 2 sts, K2Tog, turn (34 sts remain on needle). Page 6 of 12
Row 18 P across row, turn. Row 19 SKP, K across row to last 2 sts, K2Tog, turn (32 sts remain on needle). Row 20 P across row, turn. Row 21 SKP, K across row to last 2 sts, K2Tog, turn (30 sts remain on needle). Row 22 P across row, turn. Row 23 SKP, K across row to last 2 sts, K2Tog, turn (28 sts remain on needle). Row 24 P across row, turn. Row 25 K across row, turn. Continue in Stockinette Stitch until the foot is the same length as the instep, ending on a purl row. You now have 28 sts from the heel and 28 sts from the instep for a total of 56 sts. Divide all the sts onto 4 double-point needles (using the 5th needle as your working needle) as follows, and knit as shown: With 4th Needle, K 14 to center of heel; 1st Needle: K remaining 14 sts; 2nd Needle: K across the first 14 sts of instep; 3rd Needle: K the remaining 14 sts of instep; 4th Needle: K 14 to center of heel. K two additional rows. To Turn Heel (Option 5): Before turning the heel, give yourself sufficient time to complete Rows 1 through 10. Be careful not to leave gaps (holes). DO NOT WALK AWAY OR GET DISTRACTED WHILE KNITTING ROWS 1 13!!! Row 1 K 18, K2Tog, K 1, turn (29 sts remain on needle) Row 2 Sl 1, P 8, P2Tog, P 1, turn (28 sts remain on needle). Row 3 Sl 1, K 9, K2Tog, K 1, turn (27 sts remain on needle). Row 4 Sl 1, P 10, P2Tog, P 1, turn (26 sts remain on needle). Row 5 Sl 1, K 11, K2Tog, K 1, turn (25 sts remain on needle). Row 6 Sl 1, P 12, P2Tog, P 1, turn (24 sts remain on needle). Row 7 Sl 1, K 13, K2Tog, K 1, turn (23 sts remain on needle). Row 8 Sl 1, P 14, P2Tog, P 1, turn (22 sts remain on needle). Row 9 Sl 1, K 15, K2Tog, K 1, turn (21 sts remain on needle). Row 10 Sl 1, P 16, P2Tog, P 1, turn (20 sts remain on needle). Row 11 Sl 1, K 16, K2Tog, K1, turn (19 sts remain on needle). Page 7 of 12
Row 12 Sl 1, P 16, P2Tog (18 sts remain on needle). Pick up and P 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the side of the heel, turn (30 sts remain on needle). Row 13 K across the 30 sts on needle, pick up and K 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the other side of heel with the first stitch picked up being a red end stitch, turn (42 sts remain on needle). Row 14 P across row, turn. Row 15 SKP, K across row up to last 3 sts, (ending with) K2Tog, turn (40 sts remain on needle). Row 16 P across row, turn. Row 17 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (38 sts remain on needle). Row 18 P across row, turn. Row 19 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (36 sts remain on needle). Row 20 P across row, turn. Row 21 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (34 sts remain on needle). Row 22 P across row, turn. Row 23 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (32 sts remain on needle). Row 24 P across row, turn. Row 25 K across row, turn. Continue in Stockinette Stitch until the same length as the instep, ending on a purl row. You now have 32 sts from the heel and 32 sts from the instep for a total of 64 sts. Divide all the sts onto 4 double-point needles (using the 5th needle as your working needle) as follows, and knit as shown: With 4th Needle, K 16 to center of heel; 1st Needle: K remaining 16 sts; 2nd Needle: K across the first 16 sts of instep; 3rd Needle: K the remaining 16 sts of instep; 4th Needle: K 16 to center of heel. K two additional rows. To Turn Heel (Option 6): Before turning the heel, give yourself sufficient time to complete Rows 1 through 10. DO NOT WALK AWAY OR GET DISTRACTED WHILE KNITTING ROWS 1 13!!! Row 1 K 25, K2Tog, K 1, turn (37 sts remain on needle) Row 2 Sl 1, P 15, P2Tog, P 1, turn (36 sts remain on needle). Row 3 Sl 1, K 16, K2Tog, K 1, turn (35 sts remain on needle). Page 8 of 12
Row 4 Sl 1, P 17, P2Tog, P 1, turn (34 sts remain on needle). Row 5 Sl 1, K 18, K2Tog, K 1, turn (33 sts remain on needle). Row 6 Sl 1, P 19, P2Tog, P 1, turn (32 sts remain on needle). Row 7 Sl 1, K 20, K2Tog, K 1, turn (31 sts remain on needle). Row 8 Sl 1, P 21, P2Tog, P 1, turn (30 sts remain on needle). Row 9 Sl 1, K 22, K2Tog, K 1, turn (29 sts remain on needle). Row 10 Sl 1, P 23, P2Tog, P 1, turn (28 sts remain on needle). Row 11 Sl 1, K 23, K2Tog, K 1, turn (27 sts remain on needle). Row 12 Sl 1, P 24, P2Tog (26 sts remain on needle). Pick up and P 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the side of the heel, turn. (38 sts remain on needle). Row 13 K across the 38 sts on needle, pick up and K 12 sts (both loops of each stitch) along the other side of heel with the first stitch picked up being a red end stitch, turn (50 sts remain on needle). Row 14 P across row, turn. Row 15 SKP, K across row up to last 3 sts, (ending with) K2Tog, K 1, turn (48 sts remain on needle). Row 16 P across row, turn. Row 17 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (46 sts remain on needle). Row 18 P across row, turn. Row 19 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (44 sts remain on needle). Row 20 P across row, turn. Row 21 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (42 sts remain on needle). Row 22 P across row, turn. Row 23 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (40 sts remain on needle). Row 24 P across row, turn. Row 25 SKP, K across row to last 3 sts, K2Tog, turn (38 sts remain on needle). Row 26 P across row, turn. Continue in Stockinette Stitch until the same length as the instep, ending on a purl row. You now have 40 sts from the heel and 40 sts from the instep for a total of 80 sts. Divide all the sts onto 4 double-point needles (using the 5th needle as your working needle) as follows, and knit as shown: With 4th Needle, K 20 to center of heel; 1st Needle: K remaining 20 sts; 2nd Needle: K across the first 20 sts of instep; 3rd Needle: K the remaining 20 sts of instep; 4th Needle: K 20 to center of heel. K two additional rows. Page 9 of 12
To Shape Toe: Lay your work down with the bottom of the foot showing and the top of foot facing up. Begin with sts on the left needle. Continuing with red yarn Row 1 1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. [13 sts remain on each needle for Original Pattern and Options 1 through 4 / 15 sts remain on each needle for Option 5 / 19 sts remain on needle for Option 6]. Row 2 K. Row 3 1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. [12 sts remain on each needle for Original Pattern and Options 1 through 4 / 14 sts remain on each needle for Option 5 / 18 sts remain on needle for Option 6]. Row 4 K. Selecting Which Knitted Toe to Use: If you want to use the Original pattern method (gathering the yarn at the end of the toe and hanging a bell at the end of it), change to white yarn and repeat the last two rows until 5 sts remain on each needle. Draw remaining sts together and fasten. If you want to use the Kitchener Stitch Toe, which is the method used to make socks and will result in an invisible seam, change to white yarn. Row 1 1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. [11 sts remain on each needle for Original Pattern and Options 1 through 4 / 13 sts remain on each needle for Option 5 / 17 sts remain on needle for Option 6]. Row 2 Sl 1, K across. Row 3 1st Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 2nd Needle: K 1, SKP, K across; 3rd Needle: K across to last 3 sts on needle, K2Tog, K 1; 4th Needle: K 1, SKP, K to end of needle. [10 sts remain on each needle for Original Pattern and Options 1 through 4 / 12 sts remain on each needle for Option 5 / 16 sts remain on needle for Option 6]. Row 4 K. Page 10 of 12
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 8 sts [11 sts for Option 6] remain on each needle. Make sure the last row you knit here is a repeat of Row 4, which is a row with no decreases. Combine the 16 sts [22 sts for Option 6] from 2nd and 3rd Needles onto one needle (the instep top of the foot). Knit the 8 sts [11 sts for Option 6] from Needle 1 onto Needle 4 (bottom of the foot). Leave a tail approximately 2 yards long and thread that tail onto a yarn needle. With 16 sts [22 sts for Option 6] on each needle, complete the toe using the Kitchener Stitch method. (One way to use Kitchener Stitch is to weave the yarn using very large loops, then tightening them up after all stitches have been completed. I find that method works very well.) DO NOT WALK AWAY OR GET DISTRACTED WHILE DOING THE KITCHENER STITCH. Kitchener Stitch Method Here s the Rhyme: KNIT OFF:Place the needle into the first front stitch as if you are knitting and slide that stitch off of the needle. PURL ON: Place the needle into the very next front stitch as if you are purling and leave that stitch on the needle. You can hold the stitch against your left index finger to prevent it from sliding off if that helps. PURL OFF: Place the needle into the first back stitch as if you are purling and slide that stitch off the needle. KNIT ON: Place the needle into the very next back stitch as if you are knitting and leave that stitch on the needle. Repeat until there is one stitch left on each needle. Knit off the front stitch and purl off the back stitch. Pull up the yarn until the stitches are the same size and shape as the surrounding stitches, weave in the ends. Sewing the Side and Back Seams: The original pattern instructions just said, Sew seams. I recently came across a much better, seamless way to sew the seams than to use a mattress stitch. This method was designed by Page 11 of 12
Saroj Madan. I have tried it, love it and will never use the mattress stitch again. When you see how easy it is, you will love it, too. Saroj s Seamless Sewing Instructions for Any Garment The trick with the seamless method is to always K the knit stitch and P the purl stitch for the first and last stitch of your rows. Sew from the right side so you can see your work as you go along, from the top down. In your finished work, the end stitches have a tight stitch and a loose stitch. With your threaded yarn needle, go down the loose stitch on the same side of the yarn, then go up on the tight stitch on the other side of your work. In the beginning, program your brain: Up the tight and down the loose on the same side. Your yarn is always at the wrong side and crosses over from bottom to up on the other side. You can also view this technique in Saroj s video: http://static.knittingparadise.com/upload/2013/7/31/1375279121590-img_0133.mp4 The above instructions and link were provided courtesy of Saroj Madan (Saroj), a designer and workshop teacher on www.knittingparadise.com. Part 14 - Adding Bells, Personalizing Your Stocking and Hanging a Loop: Sew one bell to each point of White Border at top of Stocking. If you made the Original, sew a bell to the end of the toe. If you didn t knit the name within the White Border, duplicate-stitch the name into that section now. Make a loop on the center back for hanging using a knit or crochet stitch. Be sure to make it strong enough to be able to hold whatever Santa puts in the stocking. You re done! I hope you have enjoyed my design and had as much fun making a stocking as I did. Ginny (GinB on www.knittingparadise.com) Page 12 of 12