EEMBROIDER ATHLETIC WEAR & PUMP UP YOUR DECORATING PROFITS Presented by Colleen Hartigan
What is difficult to handle, hard to pin down & everybody wants them? If you answered Customers, you are only part right. I was thinking of athletic performance wear, you know, the slippery, stretchy, skinny fabrics that are being used in sports apparel seen everywhere from the grocery store to the gymnasium to golf courses. The growth of this category sometimes referred to as Athleisure has outpaced every other in terms of retail growth.
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR POPULARITY OF ATHLETIC PERFORMANCE WEAR From work out wear to leisure apparel 9 out of 10 consumers (92%) own some type performance wear.** $97 Billion* June, 2016 $6 Billion May, 2014 *The New York Times **Cotton, Inc.
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR Not a fashion trend, but a lifestyle trend where functionality and fashion meet. All the characteristics that make these garments comfortable to wear; soft, pliable, thin and stretchy, can also create some challenges in embroidering. Performance apparel can be embroidered as easily as other apparel with a few modifications in preparation and equipment. Be prepared and don t let this lucrative, trend pass you by; your ability to offer this apparel option will keep customer satisfied, keep your company front and center for embellishment and pump up your decorating profits.
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR How the Market Decorated in 2016
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR Why Embroider? Adds perceived value Longevity of color and over all appearance A sheen that makes logos pop Can be produced on all fabrics Small orders are possible Can add or subtract colors without added cost Ability to mix threads for interest, texture and profit.
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR Design and Digitizing Choosing the Correct Backing Hooping Performance Fabrics Needles and Threads
DIGITIZING & DESIGN Minimize stitch count in larger designs Too many stitches in a logo intended for performance apparel can result in puckering and even needle cuts. Reduce the overall stitch density and focus more on the underlay Cross hatch or lattice underlay will help with stability and coverage when reducing the stitch density. Longer satin stitches 4 mm and simple fills work best Work from the center of the design out & from the bottom up Consider the push and pull of the fabric
Minimize stitch count & complex detail Digitizing - Keep it simple DIGITIZING & DESIGN
Underlay is the name for the stitching you don t see! Various types - single running line, perpendicular (a series of running stitches), zigzag or lattice (crisscross running stitches) which is the best choice for athletic wear fabrics. Stabilizes fabric and backing to reduce movement of material Lifts stitching off the fabric, creating a more puffed up appearance and decrease stitch count. To push down fibres Something for stitches to hold on to. DIGITIZING & DESIGN Underlay what is it & why is it necessary?
COMPARING DIGITIZING CHOICES DIGITIZING & DESIGN Garment lays flat with proper digitizing technique notice puckering and folding due to trapped fabric Distortion from improper digitizing
DIGITIZING & DESIGN IMPROPER DIGITIZING PRODUCES POOR RESULTS 12
DIGITIZING & DESIGN PROPER DIGITIZING PRODUCES GREAT RESULTS
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR Embroidery and the DAM market Design and Digitizing Choosing the Correct Backing Hooping Performance Fabrics Needles and Threads
CHOOSING THE CORRECT BACKING 15
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR CHOOSING THE CORRECT BACKING Choose cut away backings that are lighter than 2.0oz. Low Profile No Show Weblon (Nylon Mesh) Backing in white, black or beige for designs less than 7000 stitches Add light weight Tear Away for more stability to designs with more than 7000 stitches. Pulling on the backing to remove it may lead to stretching or distortion on some lighter weight fabrics. Temporary spray adhesive can be used for extra manageability. 16
17 EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR CHOOSING THE CORRECT BACKING Poor result Good result Not enough underlay Inadequate backing
CHOOSING THE CORRECT BACKING COMPARING BACKING CHOICES the wrong backing choice can increase the badge effect and puckering Fabric lays flat with no push, pull, or badge effect 18
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR Embroidery and the DAM market Design and Digitizing Choosing the Correct Backing Hooping Performance Fabrics Needles and Threads 19
HOOPING PERFORMANCE FABRICS Choose a hoop size that is not to large Avoid hooping too tight Adjust hoop so it barely holds garment (without backing) Test final hoop tension with backing Correct hoop tension will apply minimal amount of stretch Hooping too tightly may result in hoop burns, damaged fabric or puckering
HOOPING PERFORMANCE FABRICS Make sure the hoop is only slightly larger than the design 15cm hoop is too large for design 12cm correct hoop size for design 21
HOOPING PERFORMANCE FABRICS COMPARING HOOPING CHOICES over-stretching causes puckering once it is removed from the hoop relaxed fabric and design when properly hooped 22
EMBROIDERING ATHLETIC WEAR Embroidery and the DAM market Choosing the Correct Backing Hooping Performance Fabrics Needles and Threads
THREADS Polyester & Rayon are both good choices, however, Rayon thread actually looks and feel a better on these lighter weight fabrics. The softer hand and ease of tensioning make it the best choice. Consider thinner threads for small logos and fine detail to improve the clarity of the design like a #75 or #60 weight rayon or polyester. Increase densities 20 to 30% when using finer thread Frosted Matt for garments used for extreme UV sunlight exposure. Consider #50 weight metallic for special effect. 24
THREADS Classic Rayon & Polyneon #60 82 solid colors 1,640 yard Mini Snap Cones Digitize with average 3.5 density Use #65/9 or #70/10 needle Matched to Classic Rayon #40 colors Stitch letters 3mm high 25
THREADS Frosted Matt 176 solid colors 13 fluorescent colors Digitize with average 3.5 4.0 density Use #65/9 or #75/11 needle High definition appearance adds clarity Particularly colorfast to UV rays of sunlight Able to stand up to commercial laundering 26
THREADS FS Metallic #50 8 shades of gold and silver Digitize with average 3.5 4.0 density Use #65/9 or #70/10 needle Use for monograms Use for decorative filigree embroidery Can be substituted for #40 in most designs Stitch letters 4mm high 27
Thread and Needle Guide NEEDLES 60/8 SES Rayon #60 & Polyester #60, #75 65/9 SES Rayon #60, #40, Polyneon #60, #40, & FS Metallic #50 70/10 SES Rayon #40 & Polyneon #40 The thinnest needle for the best results. Ballpoint (SES) needles are best for knit, performance wear fabrics Ballpoint needles push the fabric aside during penetration rather than slice the threads as a sharp point can resulting in a run in the fabric. RG/Universal Point
Accurately estimate logo and design stitch counts. Work with 3 thread color palettes for the best color solutions Provide a cost estimate on the spot Show customers how their image would look embroidered. Eliminate guess work, by previewing colors and logo placement on garments or cap. Quote with confidence before digitizing
! THANK YOU FOR LISTENING NOW IT IS TIME FOR YOUR QUESTIONS? Colleen Hartigan Colleen.hartigan@yahoo.com