A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

A few notes about PDF patterns from.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing larger pieces will need to be taped together before cutting out the fabric. Be advised that this document needs to be printed to it s original scale. Please ensure that the printing options below are not selected. Do Not: Rotate and Center, Fit to Page, Reduce to Fit or adjust the scale of this document. Refer to the scale marker below to ensure that this copy is printed at the correct scale. This PDF pattern is not licensed for commercial use and may not be shared, duplicated or distributed. 2016, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1 or 25.4mm 1 or 25.4mm

Classic Tuxedo For 17 Matt O Neill Throughout the entire construction of all garments you will use a ¼ seam allowance. This seam allowance is already included within the dimensions of the pattern. Some of the garments are un-lined or partially lined. It is recommended that you finish exposed seams with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Press the garment as you work through each step. Shirt: Pants: Jacket: Vest: Tie: Notions: lightweight cottons, calicos and broadcloths lightweight cottons, broadcloths, woolens, suiting lightweight cottons, broadcloths, woolens, suiting lightweight cottons, silk, brocade and broadcloths ¼ Satin Ribbon, ¼ Elastic 9 4/0 snap sets, 8 1/8 buttons, tiny silk flower for boutonniere. Pants 1. Right sides together sew pants front to pants back along side raw edge. Clip curves as needed and press seam allowance to one side. 2. Wrong sides together fold bottom raw hem edge of pants under approx. 3/8 or less and hard press. Using a machine or hand stitch secure hem into place. 3. Right sides together sew center backs of pants together along curved crotch edge. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. 4. Right sides together sew one lengthwise edge of waistband to top raw edge of pants, starting and stopping at mock fly. Trim away any excess waistband that extends beyond either front fly. Wrong sides together fold the left fly and waistband under approx. ½ as indicated by fold lines on pattern pieces. Hard press. Fold waistband over seam allowance, lengthwise and hard press. The width of the waistband should be approx. ¼ 3/8. 5. Right sides together sew pants fronts together along curved crotch edge stopping at dot. Clip seam allowance. Check fold in fly to ensure that it is even with this seam. 6. Right sides together sew pants front to pants back along raw edge of inseam. Clip at crotch and curves and press seam allowance open. 7. Turn pants right side out and fit to doll. Re-adjust fly fold line as needed and mark placement for two snap sets. Secure snap sets into place. Snaps should not be visible from the right side of the pants when they are snapped into place. Shirt 1. Right sides together sew shirt front to shirt back along shoulder raw edge. Press seam allowance open. 2. Right sides together fold collar in half as indicated on pattern and sew along side raw edges. Clip corners and turn collar right side out. Press edges smooth. Stay stitch bottom raw edge of collar. 3. With raw edge of collar sandwiched between both layers of collar riser, center collar using notch marks on collar and riser. Pin all layers together. Using sewing lines on pattern as a guide sew along outside raw edge of riser. Trim seam allowance to 1/8 and turn collar and collar riser assembly right side out. Press edges smooth. Stay stitch bottom raw edge of riser. 4. Right sides together center raw edge of riser to raw edge of shirt neckline, match notches. Ensure that riser meets front fold line in shirt front. Stay stitch riser to neckline using a 1/8 seam allowance. 5. Fold center fold line of shirt as indicated on pattern piece so that right sides are facing each other. This will serve as the shirt front facing. The collar riser will be sandwiched between these two layers. Secure facing and collar to shirt using a ¼ seam allowance. It is important that the edge of the collar riser meet perfectly with the fold line. Clip and trim seam allowance as needed and turn facing and collar assembly right side out. 6. Right sides together sew sleeve back to sleeve front stopping at dot. Press seam allowance open. 7. RST sew sleeve to armhole opening. 8. Sew front to back and sleeve raw edge at the side seam. 9. Fold one long edge of cuff under and press. 10. RST pin cuff to sleeve, leaving an overhang on each side. 11. RST fold cuff in half, sew side raw edges. Clip seams, turn and press. 12. Sleeve raw edge will be sandwiched in cuff. Hand finish opening. 13. Wrong sides together fold bottom raw edge of shirt under approx. ¼ and hard press. Using a machine stitch secure hem into place by top stitching approx. 1/8 from folded edge.

14. Fit shirt to doll. 15. Mark placement for snap sets. Secure snaps into place using waxed thread and needle. Snap sets should not be visible from right side of shirt when snaps are fastened into place. Tie 1. Fold the ¼ satin ribbon into the tie by creating two loops on each side. Tack center. Take an additional piece of ribbon and wrap around the center of the loops. Secure. Sew bow tie to a piece of ¼ elastic. Sew one side of the snap set to the back of tie, measure elastic to dolls neck. Sew the other half of the snap set to the end of the elastic. Mock Vest (key: the vest turns through the back neck section, chose a lightweight material or increase the width of this section to make turning easier) 1. Sew darts in all four vest sections. These darts are very narrow. 2. Sew center back neck seams. 3. Press seams open. 4. With right sides together, pin the sections together. 5. Sew entire outside raw edge of vest, leaving an opening in the waist edge to turn. 6. Clip seams. 7. Turn garment through opening. 8. Press. 9. Position buttons on front of the vest center. 10. Fit to doll and apply snaps at the garment waist back. Tuxedo Jacket 1. RST sew center back seam. Press open. 2. Sew back side sections to center back. 3. Reinforce inner edge of each front section, pivoting at circle. Clip toward small circle. Front Section Front Section Front Section step 3 Front Section step 4 center back seam Back Section step 5 4. RST sew the front sections together at the center back seam. 5. Stitch the front sections to the back at the shoulder and neck edge, pivoting at the circle and clipping back edge as needed. 6. Sew front sections to the back at the side seams. 7. Baste around the sleeve cap between dots. 8. Turn sleeve hem edge under ¼ and press. 9. Turn hem allowance down and sew the sleeve seam. 10. RST pin sleeve to armhole opening. Match up circle on cap to the shoulder seam, match second circle to side seam. sew sleeve in the round. 11. Sew front side lining sections to front lining sections. 12. Repeat steps 1-10 for the lining. 13. Turn lining waist edge under ¼ and press. 13. RST pin jacket lining to jacket. 14. Sew all the way around outer edge. Clip, Turn and press. 15. Sew darts in left and right tail sections. 16. Sew dart in left and right lining sections. 17. RST pin tail lining to tail sections. 18. Sew around the tail raw edges, leaving dart edge open. 19. Clip seams, turn tails and press. 20. Baste tail openings closed. 21. RST and starting at the center front of the jacket, pin tails to jacket at the waist. Left tail will lap over the right tail when they are sewn together. Leave the lining free when attaching the tails. 22. Press seam up. Slip stitch lining to jacket. Slip stitch sleeve lining to sleeve. 23. Sew decorative buttons to left front opening of jacket.

center back Piece Right Back Tail Cut 1 Fabric Cut 1 Lining Piece Left Back Tail Cut 1 Fabric Cut 1 Lining Piece Waistband Cut 1 2014, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

Piece Jacket Front Fabric Piece Back Sleeve Piece Cuff center neck back reinforce corner pivot at circle center back Piece Jacket Back Fabric Lining Piece Shirt Collar Cut 1 center back Piece Front Sleeve 2014, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

Fold Line Stitch Line Grain Line Notch Dot Snap Seam allowance of 1/4 is already included in the dimensions of the pattern Piece Jacket Front Lining Lining Piece Shirt Back Cut 1 on Fold ease Fold Here Piece Jacket Sleeve Fabric Lining ease Piece Side Back Fabric Lining 2014, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

center neck back reinforce corner pivot at circle Piece Shirt Front Piece Mock Vest Cut 4 Fabric Piece Front Facing Fabric lapel fold line 2014, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. Piece Collar Riser