BASEBALL SOCKS (FESTIVE KNITTING PATTERN WITH PINSTRIPES) BY MEREDITH DAVEY This is a great knitting project for the ultimate baseball fan. These socks can be knit in two sizes: a larger size for a woman who wears a size shoe or a child who wears a size shoe (with a foot approximately ¼ inches long) and a smaller size for a woman who wears a size ½ shoe or a child who wears a size shoe (with a foot approximately ½ inches long).
I have included stitch patterns for of the 0 Major League Baseball teams. (They are shown at the end.) Unfortunately, the logos for the Seattle Mariners, Florida Marlins, Tampa Bay Devil Rays, and Houston Astros are too complex to fit into a x -stitch space. You will note that all of the logos are upside down; this is deliberate. This is a top-down sock pattern, so you will follow the chart from bottom to top (this will make sense once you start knitting). I have also included a blank grid, if you would like to design and knit the logo of your favorite minor league or little league team. (Just remember to design the logo upside down.) Here is a list of the materials you will need: Sock Yarn Set of Five Double-Pointed Needles Four Stitch Markers One Detachable Stitch Marker Waste Yarn Sock yarn (fingering weight) in the your team colors. Get sock yarn specifically it typically knits at about 0 stitches/ inches, and is about % wool and % nylon. You will need approximately 00 yards (-0 gram skeins) of your main color (MC), 00 yards (-0 gram skeins) of your contrast color (CC), and 00 yards (-0 gram skeins) of your second contrast color (CC), if your team s sock has three colors. The list of team yarn colors is as follows: Chicago Cubs: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue, (CC)-Red New York Mets: (MC)-White, (CC)-Bright Blue, (CC)-Orange Philadelphia Phillies: (MC)-White, (CC)-Red Colorado Rockies: (MC)-White, (CC)-Purple Minnesota Twins: (MC)-White, (CC) Dark Blue, (CC)-Red New York Yankees: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue Chicago White Sox: (MC)-White, (CC)-Black
A set of five Size 0 ( mm) double-pointed (DP) needles for the larger size, a set of five Size 000 (. mm) doublepointed (DP) needles for the smaller size, or the size necessary to obtain the proper gauge. (The gauge is discussed below.) Four stitch markers (for marking stitches along needles) One detachable stitch marker (to mark the beginning of your row. I often use a paper clip or a safety pin for this.) Waste yarn (for knitting the heel flap and testing sock size) Blunt tapestry needle (not shown) Size (. mm) crochet hook (not shown) Stitch gauge: Using the long-tail cast-on (or whichever cast-on you prefer), cast on 0 stitches and knit a swatch at least long. Measure the number of stitches in two inches. You should have 0 stitches/ inches for the larger size, or stitches/ inches for the smaller size. The correct gauge is very important for a proper fit. Instructions: A Small Glossary of Terms: k p M ktog ptog ssk ssp pm sl knit purl make a stitch knit two stitches together purl two stitches together slip two stitches knitwise individually, then knit them together through the back of the loop slip two stitches knitwise individually, then purl them together through the front of the loop place stitch marker slip a stitch purlwise Casting On: Make a slip knot approximately yard into CC yarn. Hook your slip knot over two DP needles. Using the long-tail cast-on over two DP needles (or whichever cast-on you prefer), cast on 0 stitches. Knitting the Cuff: Distribute your 0 stitches evenly over needles (0 stitches to a needle). Forming the needles into a circle, join the stitches in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches (otherwise you will end up with a mobius sock ). Attach your detachable stitch marker at the beginning of your row, to keep track. Move this marker down as you work, so you do not get confused. Begin knitting in the following pattern: *k, p*, repeat until the end of the row. Continue this x ribbing for more rows ( rows total). After completing the ribbing, knit an increase row, increasing the number of stitches from 0 to. Do this by knitting the following pattern: *k, M*, repeat until the end of the row. Once you increase your stitch count to, rearrange your stitches onto needles, with stitches on each needle. Place a stitch marker stitches in on each needle. Your knitting should now be divided into six equal sections of stitches each.
You have now reached the logo pattern! Find your logo pattern (cut it out and tape it to a small piece of cardboard if you need to) and be prepared to follow it. This next row will start at Row of your logo pattern. If necessary, your logo may call for MC (and/or CC) at this point. When you find you have to add an additional color(s), be sure to strand the non-knitted color along the back fairly loosely. Your knitting should lie flat (it should not pucker), and you should be able to stretch the stranded knitting slightly beyond its normal knitted tension. Try not to let any one strand hang loose for longer than - stitches. In those cases, wrap the stranded yarn with the knitted yarn, so the loose threads stay close to the fabric. An example of stranding in the cuff along the inside (wrong side) of the fabric. Notice that the MC (orange) is twisted in every - stitches. Knit the next few rows as follows: *Knit Row of logo pattern, k of CC*, repeat until the end of the row (a total of six times). This is a - stitch repeat, and should end either at a stitch marker or the end of a needle. Knit Rows - of the logo pattern in a similar fashion: *knit row of logo pattern, k of CC*, repeat until the end of the row. As you knit Row, decrease to stitches as follows: *k0 of CC, ktog*, repeat until the end of the row. There will be three repeats total, one per needle. Your final cuff should look something like this: An example of the cuff After you have finished the cuff, now would be a good time to check that your sock will actually fit. Starting from the first stitch of your row, thread all of your stitches onto your waste yarn, using the tapestry needle. Try to pull the cuff over your heel and ankle. It might be a little snug over your heel, but the point is, it should fit. If it is too tight (do not worry, this has happened to me too), try another gauge swatch on larger needles with stitches/ inches for the larger size, or 0 stitches/ inches for the smaller size. Then go back to Casting On and try again. If it does fit, rethread your knitting back onto your needles and move onto the leg.
How to do FESTIVE KNITTING: Knitting the Heel Flap:. Examine your pattern line carefully. If you have any MC stitches in your row, start with them. Knit each of these MC stitches, and slip each of the CC and CC stitches as if to purl. Slip stitches all the way to the end of the logo pattern. Knit the MC stitches in your row. Slip any stitches that are supposed to be CC.. Turn your work around so that you are looking at the inside (wrong side) of the sock; now you can purl. (You should notice that, from this side, your CC and CC line is now in the right place to purl.) Starting from this end of the logo, take your CC and CC lines and purl back along the logo, specifically into those stitches you had slipped before, and slipping the MC stitches you had previously knit. When you have finished this row of the logo, turn your work and slip the logo stitches once again. You will now be ready to continue the MC pattern. Turn your work and purl the stitches you had slipped previously. Slip the stitches you had already knit with the MC. NOTE: BE VERY CAREFUL TO KEEP YOUR TENSION LOOSE ENOUGH. IT IS VERY EASY TO MAKE FESTIVE KNITTING PUCKER, ESPECIALLY AT THE EDGES. But what if my CC and CC line is at the wrong end and I have no MC stitches in the team logo pattern row. Should I just slip all stitches and purl back? Good question. No. At the top or bottom of your logo, you are likely to run into a row where you need to do festive knitting, but it looks like you should strand across stitches, which is too far. In that case (see the pictures below), make a point of twisting the CC and CC yarn around the MC yarn every - stitches as you purl. Additionally, make sure to pull your MC yarn tight(ish) behind your CC and CC yarn after you have caught your stitches. MC Catch MC behind CC Twist CC with MC. Slip all the team logo stitches.. Catch your MC yarn with. Purl a few stitches, holding. Twist the CC with the caught MC. your first purled CC stitch. the caught MC loosely. Purl a few more stitches. Repeat.
Knitting the Leg: Start from the beginning of your round and work as follows:. Start with Row of your team logo. (You should be knitting already with CC [and maybe CC] ball A.) Knit team logo (over stitches, stranding MC), pm, (with MC) [k, p], k (NO STRANDING OF CC), attach CC (and CC) ball B and knit next team logo (over stitches, stranding MC), pm, (with MC) [k, p], k (NO STRANDING OF CC), attach CC (and CC) ball C and knit next team logo (over stitches, stranding MC), pm, (with MC) [k, p], k (NO STRANDING OF CC). You should now be carrying three separate lines of CC (and CC), one (two) for each column of logo, but only the MC should be stranded behind the logos.. When you come to the logos on Row, you will find that your CC lines are on the far side. This may seem like a problem, but this is where we use festive knitting. Read the instructions in the box to see how it is done.. Complete Row as follows: *work team logo using festive knitting with the appropriate individual CC (and CC) yarn, (with MC) [k, p], k*, repeat until the end of the row. There will be three repeats total, one per needle.. Complete Row as follows: *knit team logo normally with the appropriate individual CC (and CC) yarn, (with MC) [k, p], k*, repeat until the end of the row.. Alternately repeat Steps. and. for even and odd rows of the team logo pattern, until you reach Row (you will end with Step.).. Repeat Step. three more times, for a total of repeats of the logo pattern. You now have ribbing running where the pinstripes are supposed to go (see picture above). When the sock is completed, you will crochet CC into these ribs to make the pinstripes. Knitting the Heel Flap: At the end of your fourth repeat of the leg team logo pattern, start the heel flap. Rearrange your stitches as follows: Needle (including the first team logo): 0 stitches. Remove the stitch marker from this needle. Needle : stitches Set aside the removable stitch marker for now. Put the remaining stitches on waste yarn. The heel flap begins as follows: If you have a CC strand, cut it at this point with a -inch tail. Knit Row of the first team logo, then k of MC (to the end of Needle ). For this first row, strand CC behind MC up to this point (you will need it in a minute). Combine all stitches not on the waste yarn onto one needle. (While working the heel flap, you should only need two needles.) Cut your MC, leaving a -inch tail. Turn your work and purl back with CC for stitches (these should be all of your live stitches). Using CC, work the heel flap using the Eye of the Partridge technique (which looks a little like k, p ribbing):. *sl, k*, repeat until the end of the row. Turn.. Sl, p to end of row. Turn.. Repeat Steps. and. twenty-four times, for a total of forty-eight rows.. Repeat Step. one final time.
Your final heel flap will look something like this: An example of the heel flap Turning the Heel: Work as follows:. Cut ball A of CC, leaving a -inch tail. Sl stitches purlwise, so you are starting from the middle of the row. Starting from the purl side, with MC, ptog, ptog, p, turn your work to start knitting in the opposite direction (yes, I know you are in the middle of the row).. You should now be looking at the knit side. Sl, k, p, ssk, k, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the purl side. Sl, p, k, p, ptog, p, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the knit side. Sl, k, p, k, ssk, k, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the purl side. Sl, p, k, p, ptog, k, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the knit side. Sl, k, p, k, ssk, p, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the purl side. Sl, p, k, p, ktog, p, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the knit side. Sl, p, k, p, k, ssp, k, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the purl side. Sl, purl continuing the k, p pattern (as seen from the right side) until one stitch before noticeable gap in the stitches (see the picture below). Ptog across this gap, p, turn your work.. You now should be looking at the knit side. Sl, knit continuing the k, p pattern (as seen from the right side) until one stitch before noticeable gap in the stitches (see the picture below). Ssk across this gap, k, turn your work. Gap Gap The gap in heel turning as you purl. The gap in heel turning as you knit.. Repeat Steps. and. until there are no stitches left, ending with Step. Towards the end, you will probably have to do a ptog or ssk at the end of the row; this is fine. In the end, you will have stitches of MC on your needle. Congratulations! You have successfully turned a heel (see the picture below)!
An example of the turned heel Knitting the Foot: Knitting the foot consists of several parts. When you pick up your stitches around the heel, you will find you have many more stitches than the number you need to go around your foot. Therefore, you will decrease these extra stitches out in gussets. At the same time, you will begin working the arch-shaped, fitted portion along the bottom of the foot. (All of this, of course, while you are continuing the logo repeats for the remaining two columns.) Work as follows:. Move the stitches held on the waste yarn to a new needle, removing waste yarn.. Starting from the end of your turned heel, use a new needle to pick up and work stitches along the side of the heel flap, continuing the k, p pattern you already have in the heel. This should end up with a k adjoining the CC edge of the team logo. The final stitch between the heel flap and the stitches from the waste yarn may become loose, so twist this corner stitch once or twice before knitting it (see picture of picked-up heel flap stitches above).. Knit the first stitch from the waste yarn and transfer it to the previous needle, so all of your k, p pattern stitches are on the same needle. Twist this corner stitch An example of the picked-up heel flap stitches. Knit the stitches formerly on the waste yarn as follows: Knit Row of team logo (this should be a continuation of the previous column, using ball B of CC), pm, [k, p], k in MC, pm, knit Row of team logo (this should be a continuation of the previous column, using ball C of CC), k MC.. Use another new needle to pick up and work stitches along the final side of the heel flap, mirroring the k, p pattern on the other side of the heel flap. Since the first stitch between the heel flap and the stitches from the waste yarn may become loose, twist this corner stitch once or twice before knitting it, as you did with the other corner stitch. Transfer the final stitch of the stitches formerly on the waste yarn (the only MC stitch after the second team logo) onto this needle.. You should now have four needles with stitches. Work twelve stitches into the next needle (this should line up with the center of the heel) and rearrange your needles as follows: Needle : 0 stitches (from rough heel center to beginning of first team logo) Needle : stitches (from beginning of first team logo to rough center of top of foot, also called the instep)
Needle : stitches (from rough center of instep to end of second team logo) Needle : stitches (from end of second team logo to rough heel center). Place your detachable stitch marker lined up with the first stitch of Needle (at heel center). (The stitch should be a purl stitch.) This is where your row will start from now.. To decrease your gusset: a. First row: Needle : Work the k, p pinstripe pattern to one stitch from end of needle. Slip the last stitch to Needle. Needle : Ktog within pattern (so that the pinstripe pattern stitch disappears behind the team logo pattern). Finish team logo pattern. In MC, [k, p], k. Needle : In MC K, [p, k]. Knit first stitches of team logo. Slip last stitch of team logo knitwise. Slip first stitch of Needle to Needle knitwise. Knit these stitches together through the back of the loop, like ssk (so that the pinstripe pattern stitch disappears behind the team logo pattern). Needle : Work the k, p pinstripe pattern. b. Second row: Work pattern. Gusset Gusset Example of decreasing gusset on left side Example of decreasing gusset on right side. Work six rows of gusset decreases (Steps. a. and b.) before you start to include the arch shaping. The arch shaping occurs on the underside of the foot and creates a bias stitch that causes the sock to hug the arch of your foot in a way that store-bought socks never do. Work the arch shaping as follows (all in MC, of course)): a. Work the seventh row of gusset decrease until five stitches from the end of Needle. Pm, ssk (I know this seems like it should be a purl), k, M purlwise (you should be at the end of Needle ). b. At the beginning of Needle, p (your center bottom stitch), M purlwise, k, ktog (I know this seems like it should be a purl), pm. c. Continue working the next row of your gusset decrease (this will be Row. b.). When you come back to the bottom, continue your pattern through to the marker. After the marker, p, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches until one stitch before the next marker, then p. d. Continue working the next row of your gusset decrease (this will be Row. a.), until one stitch before the marker on Needle. Move marker one stitch to the right by slipping stitches. Ssk, k, p, M knitwise. At the beginning of Needle, p, M knitwise, p, k, ktog, moving the marker to just after the ktog stitch. e. Work Step c. again. f. Continue working the next row of your gusset decrease (this will be Row. a.), until one stitch before the marker on Needle. Move marker one stitch to the right by slipping stitches. Ssk, k, p, k, M knitwise. At the beginning of Needle, p, M knitwise, k, p, k, ktog, moving the marker to just after the ktog stitch. g. Work Step c. again.
h. Continue working the next row of your gusset decrease (this will be Row. a.), until one stitch before the marker on Needle. Move marker one stitch to the right by slipping stitches. Ssk, work the k, p pattern that is emerging to the end of the needle, M in the appropriate stitch style to continue the pattern. At the beginning of Needle, p, M in the appropriate stitch style to continue the pattern, work the k, p pattern that is emerging to one stitch before the marker, ktog, moving the marker to just after the ktog stitch. (See pictures of the non-pinstriped version above.) i. Continue Steps g. and h. until you can count 0 stitches between your center bottom stitch and your markers. (You will finish your arch shaping before you finish your gusset decreases.) Move marker to the right one stitch, and ktog. Work to the end of Needle, and M. M On Needle, k, M. Work to one stitch before the marker, ssk, moving the marker to the left.. Continue a. and b. in Step. until you have decreased to stitches total, removing stitch markers when appropriate. After you finish the gusset decreases, continue working the foot over those stitches until you have added another four repeats of the team logo pattern. There should be nine repeats total along the two long columns: one in the cuff + four in the leg + four in the foot. Finish your final row at the bottom of the foot, at the end of Needle. Knitting the Toe: To even out your stitches, shift one stitch from Needle to Needle and one stitch from Needle to Needle (yes, I know we have just stolen stitches from the team logos!) You should now have as follows: Needle : stitches Needle : stitches Needle : 0 stitches Needle : 0 stitches
Continue your pattern until the end of Needle, making sure to knit the last stitch in CC, as it is part of the team logo column. Cut your MC (and possibly CC) yarn, leaving a -inch tail. Move your detachable stitch marker to between Needle and Needle, as our round will now be starting from here. Starting from Needle, and using only CC, knit the following decreases:. Knit entire row.. Knit as follows: Needle : K, ssk, knit to end. Needle : Knit to last three stitches, ktog, k. Needle : K, ssk, knit to end. Needle : Knit to last three stitches, ktog, k.. Repeat Steps. and. until stitches remain.. Repeat Step. until stitches remain. Slip the stitches from Needle to Needle, and the stitches from Needle to Needle. You should have two needles with stitches each. Cut the CC yarn, leaving a -inch tail. Thread the -inch tail onto the tapestry needle and use the Kitchener Stitch (see the box above) to graft the toe. Afterwards, turn the sock inside out and use the tapestry needle to weave in any remaining loose ends, remembering to pull the associated stitches tight. The Kitchener Stitch: Repeat steps - until all the stitches are grafted together. (Examples shown in waste yarn for clarity.). Pass the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit. Drop that stitch off the needle and pull the yarn through.. Slide the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl. Leave this stitch on the needle.. Pass the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Drop that stitch off the needle and pull the yarn through.. Slide the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Leave this stitch on the needle.
Attaching the Pinstripes : If you have been knitting festive knitting socks with pinstripes, you have probably noticed there are only purled divots where the pinstripes are supposed to be. This is where you put in the pinstripes. Take ball C of CC and the crochet hook and, using single crochet, crochet a chain of CC stitches down each row of purl stitches. At the edge of the arch shaping, you will find you are crocheting over a chain of moss-stitch-like stitches, but it will lie just fine if you keep to the outside of the adjoining knitted line in the arch shaping. Crochet all of the longest lines first, and then crochet the shorter lines abutting them; this makes for a smoother look. Also, be prepared to weave in many, many threads as you go, as each crocheted line produces two cut ends (at least that is the way I did it). On the other hand, you end up with lovely, stretchy socks, and the pinstripes look wonderful, which makes it worth it in the end. Examples of crocheting pinstripes Photographs by Laurel Rachmeler, Meredith Davey, and Pamela Batchelor.
Chicago Cubs (Blue, Red, and White) PINSTRIPES: Blue Colorado Rockies (Purple and White) PINSTRIPES: Purple Chicago White Sox (Black and White) PINSTRIPES: Black New York Mets (Bright Blue, Orange, and White) PINSTRIPES: Blue Minnesota Twins (Dark Blue, Red, and White) PINSTRIPES: Dark Blue Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim (Dark Blue, Red, and White) Philadelphia Phillies (Red and White) PINSTRIPES: Red New York Yankees (Dark Blue and White) PINSTRIPES: Dark Blue Oakland Athletics (Green and Gold) NO Pinstripe
Toronto Blue Jays (Blue and White) St. Louis Cardinals (Red and White) San Francisco Giants (Orange and Black) Atlanta Braves (Dark Blue, Red, and White) Arizona Diamondbacks (Black and Dark Red) Cleveland Indians (Dark Blue, Red, and White) Milwaukee Brewers (Dark Blue and White) Los Angeles Dodgers (Blue and White) Washington Nationals (Red and White)
Baltimore Orioles (Orange and Black) Texas Rangers (Blue, Red, and White) Kansas City Royals (Blue and White) San Diego Padres (Dark Blue, Taupe, and White) Boston Red Sox (Dark Blue, Red, and White) Detroit Tigers (Dark Blue and White) Pittsburgh Pirates (Gold and Black) Cincinnati Reds (Red and White) INSERT YOUR FAVORITE MINOR LEAGUE OR LITTLE LEAGUE TEAM LOGO HERE!