Finished quilt size 36 inches square. 1 P a g e

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All Night Quilt-Along pattern by Sarah Payne This pattern is designed as a quick and easy quilt for beginners, and those who need to make a quilt in a hurry! 5 fat ¼s (Marbella Fat Quarter Pack). ½m contrasting fabric (I have used Ivory Homespun). 1m backing fabric (I have used Ivory Homespun). 1m wadding or batting. Finished quilt size 36 inches square. 1 P a g e

Additional requirements Cutting Quilting is easier to sew accurately if you have cut accurately. The easiest way to do this is with a rotary cutter, mat and ruler (sometime called an acrylic). A long ruler (such as the Simplicity Easy Rule II) is ideal for long cuts. Then a square ruler will be useful. A 9 ½ inch square and a larger (15 18 inch) square would be helpful if you have one. If you do not have a rotary cutter, ruler and mat then you can use a pencil to lightly draw the cut line and scissors to cut them out. Sewing Stitching by hand sewing thread and needles. Stitching by machine - Sewing machine, cleaned and in good working order, manual, and feet (including walking foot & ¼ inch foot if you have them). Machine sewing thread. Pins, scissors, general sewing kit. Terms Notes Wadding/batting. Wadding and batting are terms used to describe the layer of fibres that we put inside the quilt to make it drape nicely. HST Half Square Triangle. A square made up of 2 right angle triangles. QST Quarter Square Triangle. A square made up of 4 right angle triangles. Right sides of the fabric/ Right sides together. The right side of a fabric is the side with the pattern printed on it. Placing pieces right sides together means that the patterns sides will touch. Measure twice, cut once. There is enough fabric in this kit to complete the project, but not if you cut incorrectly so please read carefully before cutting each stage. Always sew with an accurate ¼ inch seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Always press your fabric before cutting, and your blocks after sewing together. Do not iron them, this can distort the fabric. Instructions Ohio Star on point centre panel This is the name of the centre panel block, and on point means it is place diagonally in the block. two 5 ½ inch squares from the Ivory Homespun fabric. one 5 ½ inch square from the Orange Floral fabric. one 5 ½ inch square from the Grey Floral fabric. 1. Take a pencil or water-soluble marker and lightly draw a line diagonally across the centre of the white fabric squares. Pair up each of the white squares with a coloured square and pin them right sides together. 2 P a g e

2. Go to the sewing machine and stitch ¼ inch on either side of the drawn line. This is shown as the red line in fig 1. 3. Cut along the drawn line. Now open the two halves and press the two triangles out to show the half square triangle. Press the seams towards the darker of the fabric triangles. 4. You now have two Half Square Triangles (HST). Repeat with the other pair to make 4 sets. 5. To make these into a Quarter Square Triangle (QST) take one Orange HST and one Grey HST and place them right sides together with the Ivory Homespun fabric touching a colour. Make sure that the diagonal seams match up. Use a pencil or water-soluble marker Figure 1 Creating a Half Square Triangle block and draw a line from corner to corner, bisecting the HST seam. Stitch a scant ¼ inch away from both sides of the line. Definition a scant quarter of an inch means that you have a ¼ inch seam allowance minus a bit! This takes into account the thickness of the fabric, and the thickness of the thread so you only remove ¼ inch from the front of the fabric. Basically, set your sewing machine needle to ¼ inch, and then move the needle one click to the right. If you have trouble getting your blocks to fit, try the SCANT measurement. 6. Cut along the line, open out the two halves and press. You now have two Quarter Square Triangles (HST). Repeat with the other pairs to make 4 sets. Trim to 4 ¾ inches. Make up the block One 4 ¾ inch square of Ivory Homespun fabric. Four 4 ¾ inch squares of Grey Bird Floral fabric. 7. Layout the pieces with the QST as shown in fig 2. 8. Sew the rows together. For the first and the third row, press the seams to the outside squares. For the second row, press the seams into the centre block. This will make it easier to line up the seams. Sew all the rows together to complete the Ohio Star. Setting the block on point 9. Setting a block on point means that the block is set in the quilt on an angle and requires the addition of triangles to square block. Figure 2 Layout for the Ohio Star block 3 P a g e

Two 10-inch squares from the Ivory Homespun fabric. 10. Cut the squares in half diagonally to make 4 large triangles. Pin to one corner of the Ohio star, making sure it is centrally placed. There will be a little bit of fabric overlapping the ends so do not worry. Stitch in place and press. Repeat with the opposite side of your block. Attach the final two triangles and your central block is completed. Trim to 18 ½ inches square. Borders This border is created using a Square in a Square block as the cornerstones, and simple squares for the rest of the border. Creating the Square in a Square block Four 6 7/8th inch squares from the Ivory Homespun fabric (this is 7 inches minus ¼ inch line on the ruler). Eight 5 ½ inch squares from the Grey Watercolour fabric. 11. Cut each of the Grey Watercolour squares in half diagonally to create 2 right angle triangles. Stitch the triangles onto the edges of the Ivory Homespun squares (see fig 3) to create 4 Square in a Square blocks. Trim to 9 ½ inches (keeping the square centred) and set aside. Figure 3 Layout for the Square in a Square block Creating the square border 12. Eight 5-inch squares from the Grey Floral fabric. Eight 5-inch squares from the Orange Floral fabric. Eight 5-inch squares from the Grey Bird fabric. Eight 5-inch squares from the Grey Bird Floral fabric. 13. Take 2 of the coloured squares and place right sides together. Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, stitch the squares into pairs and press to the darker fabric. Take 2 of the other coloured squares and repeat and press the seam in the opposite direction to the first set. Now place both pairs right sides together, ensuring the seams line up, and sew to make a four patch. 14. Repeat and make 8 sets of four patches. Sew these together to make 4 border sets. Each border should have 8 squares in it. Stitch the Square in a Square blocks to each end of two of your border pieces. 4 P a g e

Attaching the borders 15. We will start with the short borders. Place the border onto the centre panel with the right sides together. Pin from the centre outwards to ensure that the squares and the centre of the Ohio Star line up. Sew together. Repeat for the opposite border. 16. Place the long order onto one of the other sides of the quilt and pin from the centre. This time ensure that the centre point lines up, and that the edges of the Square in a Square block line up too. This is easier if you have pressed the seam allowances in opposite directions for the border and the Square in a Square blocks. Stitch and repeat with the final border. You have now completed your quilt top. Congratulations. Layering the quilt 1. Cut the wadding and the backing slightly larger than your quilt. 1 ½ inches either side will be adequate for a project this size. This allows for any movement while you are quilting your layers. Give the backing and the quilt a good iron. Layer the piece up by placing the background wrong side up on your layering surface. Then place the wadding on next, followed by quilt on top facing up so you have a yummy quilt sandwich! Pin or sew the quilt sandwich together. You can make good use of quilting glue products like 505 glue to hold the layers together. 2. Take a close look at your layered quilt to ensure that there are no stray threads showing behind your lighter fabrics as these cannot be removed once the project is quilted together. 3. Add a label to the back of the wall hanging before you quilt, detailing who it was made by, when, and if it is a gift, the name of the lucky recipient. Adding the label at this point and quilting over the top of it ensures that it won t come off! Quilting 4. Quilt the three layers together. If you are machine quilting, a walking foot can be useful as it keeps all the layers together as they pass through your machine. If you do not have a walking foot, then extra pins or tacking can stop this becoming too much of an issue. 5. For this project I chose to quilt ¼ inch from the seams using a walking foot. Using this method of quilting disguises any wobbles in your quilting and is therefore great for beginners.it can also hide the seam allowance if you have been forced to press it under a lighter fabric when constructing the blocks. It also looks great! Figure 4 Quilting 1/4 inch away from the seam with a walking foot. Binding (or finishing) the quilt 6. To bind the quilt, trim the excess backing and wadding level with the edges of the quilt. To give the quilt a contemporary look, we are going to mix the fabrics in the binding. Cut a mixture of the Ivory Homespun fabrics and the 5 P a g e Figure 5 Sew the strips together at right angles and then trim off the excess.

coloured fabrics in 2 ½ inch pieces. Sew them together at right angles (figure 5) with the right sides of the fabric together, until you have a piece of binding measuring at least 155 inches. Trim and then press the seams open to reduce bulk. 7. Fold the long strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. 8. Fold over the raw edge of the beginning of the binding and sew in place. 9. Working from the front of the quilt and half way along one side, match the raw edges of the binding to the edges of the quilt and then sew in place. To create a neat mitred corner, sew to within a quarter of an inch of the corner and then sew off the edge at 45 degrees. Then fold the free end of the binding up at a 90 angle so the raw edge of the binding lines up with the raw edge of the quilt (figure 6). Fold the strip back down on top of itself, so the raw edges line up with the raw edges of the quilt. The fold that you have just created will line up with the top edge of the quilt (figure 7). Continue sewing down the side of the quilt and repeat for each corner. Slot the end of the binding inside the folded end to neaten. Figure 6 Fold the free end of the binding up. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and slipstitch in place by hand. Step back and admire your handiwork. Figure 7 Fold the strip back on itself. This pattern has been designed by Sarah Payne 2018. Please do not share, copy, or reproduce these instructions in any format without written permission from the author. Thank You. You can contact Sarah through her website www.sarahpayne.co.uk Please feel free to post pictures of your finished projects to Sarah s Facebook page www.facebook.com/sarahpaynequilter 6 P a g e