weaving technology Mechanisms of flat Valeriy V. Choogin, The Textile Institute Palitha Bandara and Elena V. Chepelyuk PUBLISHING

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Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 144 Mechanisms of flat weaving technology Valeriy V. Choogin, and Elena V. Chepelyuk Palitha Bandara The Textile Institute WP WOODHEAD PUBLISHING Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi

Contents Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles Preface Note for students using this book ix xv xix 1 Introduction: classification and mechanisms of weaving machines 1 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Classification of weaving machines 2 1.3 Basic mechanisms of the weaving machine 4 1.4 Elastic system of fabric formation (ESFF) 5 1.5 Advantages and disadvantages of different weaving machines 15 1.6 Questions for self-assessment 15 1.7 References 16 2 Mechanisms of the weaving machine for warp release and warp tension control 17 2.1 Introduction: mechanisms of the weaving machine for warp release and warp tension control 17 2.2 Warp brakes 20 2.3 Warp regulators 24 2.4 Condition of the equilibrium of the mechanism of a moving back-rest 34 2.5 Stabilization of the mode of release and the tensioning of warp threads 35 2.6 Comparative analysis of brakes and regulators 36 2.7 Questions for self-assessment 37 2.8 References 39 3 Warp shedding in weaving: parameters and devices 40 3.1 Introduction: parameters of the shed 40 3.2 Elongation of warp threads in shedding 44 v Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013

vi Contents 3.3 The classification of shedding devices 49 3.4 Tappet shedding 49 3.5 Dobbies 54 3.6 The Jacquard machine 58 3.7 Comparative analysis of shedding devices 61 3.8 Questions for self-assessment 62 3.9 References 63 4 The supply of weft on the weaving machine 64 4.1 Introduction: the supply of weft on the weaving machine 64 4.2 Gauges for detecting the presence of weft on shuttle weaving machines 65 4.3 Battery type weft supply 67 4.4 Mechanisms for changing pirns 69 4.5 Safety devices of automatic pirn change 71 4.6 Change of hollow pirns 71 4.7 Change of shuttles 72 4.8 Multishuttle mechanisms 72 4.9 Weft supply on shuttleless weaving machines 76 4.10 Devices for measuring and control of weft tension 78 4.11 Questions for self-assessment 81 4.12 References 82 5 Weft insertion 83 5.1 Introduction: methods of weft insertion 83 5.2 Continuous insertion of weft by shuttle 88 5.3 Weft insertion by microshuttle 89 5.4 Weft insertion by projectile 92 5.5 Weft insertion by rapiers 95 5.6 Weft insertion by air and water jets 100 5.7 Pneumatic-rapier weft insertion 103 5.8 Weft insertion by an electromagnetic drive 106 5.9 Weft insertion by the inertial method 106 5.10 Comparative analysis of different methods of weft insertion 106 5.11 Questions for self-assessment 107 5.12 References 108 6 Woven fabric formation: principles and methods 109 6.1 Introduction: woven fabric formation 109 6.2 Fabric-forming mechanisms 112 6.3 Formation of the woven fabric cell 114 6.4 Parameters of woven fabric formation 116

Contents vii 6.5 Ring temples 121 6.6 Methods of easing of fabric formation 122 6.7 Comparative analysis of the methods of fabric forming 123 6.8 Questions for self-assessment 123 6.9 References 124 7 Mechanisms for woven fabric take-up 125 7.1 Introduction: mechanisms for woven fabric take-up 125 7.2 Winding woven fabric on the cloth beam 131 7.3 Comparative analysis of methods of woven fabric take-up 132 7.4 Questions for self-assessment 133 7.5 References 134 8 Safety devices on weaving machines 135 8.1 Introduction: safety devices on weaving machines 135 8.2 Weft controllers 137 8.3 Devices for prevention of warp thread breakage 142 8.4 Comparative analysis of safety devices 144 8.5 Questions for self-assessment 144 8.6 References 144 9 Weaving machine drives: mechanisms and types 145 9.1 Introduction: the weaving machine drive 145 9.2 Mechanisms for driving the main shaft of a weaving machine 146 9.3 Weaving machine brakes 148 9.4 Combined start-up and braking mechanisms 149 9.5 Comparative analysis 9.6 Questions for self-assessment 150 of different loom drives 149 9.7 References 150 10 Weaving machine parameters for specific woven fabric structures 151 10.1 Introduction: the normalization process for weaving operations 151 10.2 Estimating drawing-in parameters for a weaving machine 153 10.3 Setting up parameters for the machine-yarn-fabric path (MYFP) on weaving machines 155 10.4 Verification of parameters for the elastic system of fabric formation (ESFF) and machine-yarn-fabric path (MYFP) on weaving machines 156 10.5 Evaluating warp thread tension by oscillogram analysis 157

viii Contents 10.6 Coordination of weaving cycles 165 10.7 Factors affecting the productivity of weaving machines 166 10.8 Comparing operating conditions for natural and synthetic fibres 168 10.9 Questions for self-assessment 169 10.10 References 170 11 Control of woven fabric quality: defects and quality assurance of grey fabrics 171 11.1 Introduction: the quality control of woven fabric 171 11.2 Defects in grey fabric 172 11.3 Quality assurance of grey fabric 174 11.4 Equipment for the control of woven fabric quality 175 11.5 Questions for self-assessment 177 11.6 References 178 12 Movement of raw materials and finished fabrics in weaving manufacture 179 12.1 Introduction: product transportation in weaving manufacture 179 12.2 Transportation of raw materials and outputs 179 12.3 Questions for self-assessment 181 12.4 References 181 Appendix 1: Further reading on weaving technology 183 Appendix 2: Glossary of terms applied to weaving machines and weaving technology 185 Index 205 Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013