62nd Plenary Meeting of the INTERNATIONAL COTTON ADVISORY COMMITTEE in Gdansk - Poland September 7-12, 2003 By: Peter Stahlecker

Transcription

1 62nd Plenary Meeting of the INTERNATIONAL COTTON ADVISORY COMMITTEE in Gdansk - Poland September 7-12, 2003 By: Peter Stahlecker Page 1

2 EliTe CompactSet Recent Developments and Applications Gdansk, Poland September 7-12, 2003 Lecturer: Peter Stahlecker Page 2

3 See the Difference in Yarn Quality Carded Cotton Yarn L.H. Conventional-Spun R.H. EliTe Compact Yarn Worsted Yarn 100% Wool L.H. Conventional-Spun R.H. EliTe Compact Yarn Page 3

4 Eliminated Spinning Triangle Conventional spinning with spinning triangle EliTe Spinning without spinning triangle In Compact Spinning the mass of fibres is condensed, before twist is imparted by the spindle. This condensation happens in the so-called condensing zone following the main draft zone and is realized by an air-flow created by a vacuum and an inclined suction slot. As the spinning triangle is eliminated, which until now is the weakest point in ring spinning apart from the ring/traveller system, the advantages for the yarn producer and his customers are manifold. The subsequent survey therefore does not claim to be complete, but it explains the extent of quality improvement achievable with this modified ring spinning method: Page 4

5 g n o l e Advantages of the EliTe Compact Yarns higher work capacity by up to 50% strength higher yarn strength by up to 20% conventional tricot twist EliTe Yarn - 10 % less twist better elongation by up to 20% conventional tricot twist EliTe Yarn - 10 % less twist lower hairiness by up to 90% Zweigle S3 lower hairiness by up to 30% Uster H hairs/m better yarn evenness better imperfection values IPI therefore better running behaviour in all following processing stages Compact conventional tricot twist EliTe Yarn - 10 % less twist Yarn EliTe Page 5

6 1. General Advantages Benefits in the down-stream Processing Stages the tendency to fluff and fly is reduced in all production stages, therefore cleaning cycles can be prolonged due to manufacturing method, less dust is in the yarn, thus reducing wear on all components in yarn contact in the downstream process 2. Raw Material Input and possible Cost Savings use normal PES instead of expensive non-pilling PES fibres average percentage of good fibres in trash reduced from approx. 1.0% down to 0.1% 3. Spinning Process better spinning stability up to 60% less ends down 15 % less twist insertion possible higher production Page 6

7 Benefits in the down-stream Processing Stages 4. Winding Process less ends down in spinning = less splicers in winding hairiness increase in the winding process is significantly lower than with conventional yarn 5. Gassing for EliTe Yarns gassing may be dispensed with resulting in substantial savings 6. Beaming and Sizing process up to 50% savings in sizing agent, chemical and water treatment due to lower hairiness clinging tendency much lower as well ends-down rate in beaming up to 30% lower Page 7

8 7. Weaving fewer end breaks: 50% less in warp - 30 % less in weft = machine efficiency up by 2-3 %-points and more production increase up to 15% Substantially higher abrasion resistance of the fabric in many cases single EliTe Yarns can substitute conventional ply yarns new qualities can be developed, opening up a new creative scope for products Air Jet looms can weave articles previously restricted to Rapier looms 8. Knitting higher production and efficiency on the knitting machines fibre abrasion reduced dramatically due to low hairiness = fewer defects/yarn breaks and better quality low hairiness has positive impact on loop structure in some cases single EliTe Yarns substitute for conventional ply yarns less pilling Benefits in the down-stream Processing Stages Page 8

9 EliTe Quality Improvement EliTe Yarn Carded Cotton vs. conventional yarns coarser than Ne 20 Tenacity: + 9 % Elongation: + 9 % Hairiness - Uster: - 21 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 70 % Ne 20 and finer Tenacity: + 18 % Elongation: + 12 % Hairiness - Uster: - 28 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 85 % Page 9

10 EliTe Quality Improvement EliTe Yarn Combed Cotton vs. conventional yarns coarser than Ne 30 Tenacity: + 7 % Elongation: + 8 % Hairiness - Uster: - 25 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 73 % Ne 30 and finer Tenacity: + 18 % Elongation: + 17 % Hairiness - Uster: - 31 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 86 % Page 10

11 Tenacity: + 5 % Elongation: + 5 % Hairiness - Uster: - 21 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 68 % EliTe Quality Improvement EliTe Yarn PES/Cotton vs. conventional yarns EliTe Yarn 100 % PES vs. conventional yarns Tenacity: + 3 % Elongation: + 2 % Hairiness - Uster: - 22 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 59 % Page 11

12 Tenacity: + 8 % Elongation: + 22 % Hairiness - Uster: - 21 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 52 % EliTe Quality Improvement EliTe Yarn 100 % Wool vs. conventional yarns EliTe Yarn Wool/Synthetics vs. conventional yarns Tenacity: + 12 % Elongation: + 19 % Hairiness - Uster: - 15 % Hairiness - Zweigle S3: - 32 % Page 12

13 Yarn Appearance conventional plied yarn vs. EliTe Yarn 100% combed Cotton, Ne 60/2 conventional plied yarn 100% combed Cotton, Ne 30/1 EliTe Yarn Page 13

14 Yarn Appearance conventional plied yarn vs. EliTe Yarn 100% combed Cotton, Ne 60/2 conventional plied yarn 100% combed Cotton, Ne 30/1 EliTe Yarn Page 14

15 Distribution EliTe CompactSet Pakistan 5% Others 20% India 26% China 49% Total EliTe CompactSet sold: over 330,000 spindles (total EliTe spindles running: over 650,000) Page 15

16 The Principle of the NEW EliTe CompactSet EliTe Compact Spinning System is based on a conventional 3-over-3 double apron drafting system EliTe CompactSet is positioned right after the conventional front roller EliTe Compact Spinning System comprises the following elements: EliTube, the profile tube with inclined suction slots and lattice aprons EliTop, the connection unit of front top roller with the delivery top roller EliVAC, the EliTe Suction System for effective compacting it is imperative that the suction slot be inclined Page 16

17 Parts of EliTe CompactSet Drafting System Components Drafting System Variations EliVac - Negative Pressure System Reinforced Gear Box Page 17

18 Drafting System Components Parts of EliTe CompactSet Different Lattice Aprons for different Applications Page 18

19 Parts of EliTe CompactSet New fixing block for SUESSEN support bar New roving guide rails with condensors New front bottom roller Original tensioning device New single suction flutes with fixing parts EliTube support screwed and pinned with roller stand Following parts of the original drafting system are reused: knurled bottom roller, back bottom roller, nose bar, bottom aprons, bottom apron tensioning device, middle roller bearing slide, back bottom roller bearing slides Page 19

20 EliTube - Negative Pressure Parts of EliTe CompactSet Page 20

21 Parts of EliTe CompactSet Different Slots for Different Applications: Form A without Delta for finer yarn counts Form B with Delta for coarser yarn counts Page 21

22 Commercial Applications of EliTe Yarns Yarns Note: As many of our Customers are sales yarn spinners, it is difficult for us to learn about all the various applications and end uses of EliTe Yarn. Consequently, the items listed below are merely a sampling Warp Yarns for Denim - Ne 7/1 carded cotton, with slub yarn attachment Ladies Outerwear Tank Tops - Ne 9/1 50/50 PAC/Cotton replacing Ne 20/2 of same fibre Polo Shirts - Ne 12/1 to Ne 18/1 carded cotton, replacing combed cotton. Also Ne 60/2 for very high grade shirts. Page 22

23 Commercial Applications of EliTe Yarns Yarns Underwear - Very soft touch T Shirts - Excellent touch and feel Active Wear - Ne 30/1 to Ne 60/1, 100% PES, 100% Rayon, 100% PAC and blends of those fibres. With conventional yarns, the soft touch could not be achieved Page 23

24 Convertible Car Tops for upscale convertible cars - 100% PAC Ne 9/1 Core Yarns - Lycra Core, sheath 100% carded cotton, replacing a construction using combed cotton Sewing Thread - PES hard core, sheath 100% PES or 100% cotton. Excellent sewing performance Shirting - Ne 40/1 to Ne 80/1 combed cotton Page 24

25 Sheeting - up to Ne 120/1, to achieve maximum thread count for exports to the USA Down Proof Fabrics - ultra dense fabrics, used for expensive comforters filled with down feathers Up to Ne 80/1 carded cotton While still most of the commercial applications are for short staple, particularly for cotton, there is a large number of EliTe spindles running in worsted applications. The results are excellent and well within expectations. Page 25