Rieter Com4 Yarns. From license process, technology comparison, approval in practice to the definition. Anja Knick. Iris Biermann.

Transcription

1 Rieter Com4 Yarns Yarns of Choice Iris Biermann Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Winterthur, Switzerland Anja Knick Rieter Machine Works Ltd. Winterthur, Switzerland Rieter Com4 Yarns From license process, technology comparison, approval in practice to the definition

2 2 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns CONTENT 3 Rieter Com4 Yarns The Yarns of Choice 8 What makes a Com4 yarn so successful? 18 Com4 yarns in practice 23 Yarn segmentation knowledge of the yarn application helps in making a decision

3 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 3 Rieter Com4 Yarns The Yarns of Choice Com4 the yarn brand from Rieter has been an established name in the textile industry for more than a decade. To date Com4 stood for high-quality compact yarns spun on Rieter compact spinning machines. Most recently, the brand has been extended to all 4 spinning systems that Rieter offers on the market. We are frequently asked which yarn we recommend for which application. The question is not always easy to answer because the application range of the yarn depends on the requirements placed on the end product, the economic demands of the spinning plant as well as the customer base of the yarn manufacturer. The following information is designed to help decide which Com4 yarn is the best for the individual customer and for the textile application. Belonging to the family of Com4 yarns (Fig. 1) are Com4 ring, Com4 compact, Com4 rotor and Com4 jet which stand for high-quality yarns spun on all 4 Rieter end spinning systems. Com4 is a worldwide registered Rieter trademark. As well as Rieter customers who wish to have their yarns licensed, downstream processors can also have their textile fabrics which are verifiably manufactured from Com4 yarn licensed. ring-spun yarn compacted ring-spun yarn rotor-spun yarn air-jet-spun yarn Fig. 1 The 4 Com4 yarn brands

4 4 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Every spinning technology creates a typical yarn structure. It determines the individual yarn characteristics and therefore the character of the brand. Both the characteristics of the yarn itself and the characteristics in downstream processing or of the subsequent textile product, are determined by the yarn structure. As the structure forms the basis of all characteristics, the yarn structure images have also been selected as the central illustration for the yarn brand Com4. Your advantage in using the Com4 trademark Your advantage in using the Com4 trademark is, briefly stated, the securing of your sustainable success (Fig. 2). To distance yourself from competitors means being different or better, being able to offer your customers more than the others can. By selling and trading Com4 yarns, you are showing that you offer high-quality yarns. You profit directly from the Com4 campaign launched by Rieter. Knitters and weavers know the benefits of Com4 yarn and trust in the quality of the delivered yarn. Diversity results in flexibility and creativity Creativity has no limits in the textile industry. In order to produce innovative textile surfaces, varied yarns are needed. To bring special designs or functions into the fabric, textile designers require a vast selection of yarn types. In addition to the yarn structure variants such as the yarn fineness, volume and the fiber material in use, options are necessary to provide designers with a large yarn variety (Fig. 3). To convey high yarn quality and best fabric quality to apparel manufacturers To convey security to knitters and weavers about yarn quality and consistency To profit from wide-reaching Rieter Com4 marketing To stand out from the crowd The way to sustainable success Fig. 2 Your path to success with Com4 Ring-spun yarn Compacted ring-spun yarn Rotor-spun yarn Air-jet-spun yarn Standard yarn Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Core-spun yarn Com4 ring-core Com4 compact-core Fancy yarn Com4 ring-vario Com4 compact-vario Com4 rotor-vario Spin-twist yarn Com4 ring-twin Com4 compact-twin Special yarn Com4 compact-light Fig. 3 Extended Com4 yarn range to make creativity possible for designers

5 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 5 The 4 end spinning systems can produce additional yarn variants by adaptation of special facilities. For instance, core yarns can be produced in Com4 ring-core and Com4 compact-core versions. Fancy yarns are possible in the Com4 ring-vario, Com4 compact-vario and Com4 rotor-vario versions. Twin facilities for manufacture of spin plied yarns are made possible by Com4 ringtwin und Com4 compact-twin. A special yarn is Com4 compact-light with reduced compacting of the yarn. As you can see, variety and creativity are practically unlimited. The path to your licensing You, as spinning unit or fabric manufacturer, can contact Rieter any time and apply for the Com4 license (Fig. 4). Rieter experts from the sectors sales, product management, service and textile technology validate the applications. Spinning companies, who have their spinning process completely under control, maintain their machine park well and have high quality expectations that they also implement, have the best chance to obtain a license. Examined is whether the applicant manufactures yarns on the specified machine generations. Com4 ring must be produced on the ring spinning generations G 32, G 33 and G 35. Com4 compact on the compact spinning generations K 44 and K 45. Com4 rotor yarn on the rotor spinning machines R 40 and R 60. Com4 jet yarn is produced on the air-jet spinning machines J 10 and J 20. Following a positive decision, a license contract is concluded. The new licensee can directly profit from the yarn marketing. Contact Rieter Applying for license Rieter valuation Com4 ring produced on Rieter ring spinning machines G 32 G 33 G 35 Com4 compact produced on Rieter compact spinning machines K 44 K 45 Positive Hand over license contract Profit from Rieter marketing Com4 rotor produced on Rieter rotor spinning machines R 40 R 60 Com4 jet produced on Rieter air-jet spinning machines J 10 J 20 Fig. 4 The path to Com4 licensing

6 6 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns The Com4 family is steadily growing (Fig. 5). Almost 100 spinning companies have applied for the new branding. Over yarn qualities have already been traded as Com4 yarns. United to success How will you now profit from the Com4 campaign? The marketing concept is based on the classical pull-and-push effect (Fig. 6). This means, a licensee offers (push) the market Com4 yarns through their sales promotions. Simultaneously, the downstream processors the knitter and the weaver ask for Com4 yarns (pull). This effect only happens when all those involved know and value the benefits of Com4 yarns. Here the Rieter marketing concept becomes effective. The Com4 yarn concept for your success Which marketing activities support the marketing concept? Through good structuring and clear target group segmentation, efficient publication is rapidly and securely achieved. As is shown in Fig. 7, Rieter has actively implemented a variety of actions since A strong and informative Com4 Internet presence not only helps the already licensed customers to introduce themselves but also provides interested companies with information on Com4. A Com4 brochure and presentation supports communication. We wish to give prominence to the license and reference brochures. In the practical book, all licensed customers with their products are listed. The book is regularly AUSTRIA (1) Com4 jet BRAZIL (4) Com4 compact Com4 rotor SWITZERLAND (3) Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 jet PORTUGAL (1) Com4 compact EGYPT (1) Com4 compact ITALY (1) Com4 rotor GREECE (1) Com4 compact TURKEY (32) Com4 compact Com4 rotor INDIA (6) Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor PAKISTAN (5) Com4 compact THAILAND (3) Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor KOREA (3) Com4 ring Com4 compact CHINA (14) Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet INDONESIA (1) Com4 jet Status 4 th quarter of 2012 Fig. 5 The Com4 world

7 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 7 Rieter Rieter Customer updated, can be downloaded from the Com4 website and is actively distributed at trade fairs, symposia or other events. Downstream yarn processors and yarn trader repeatedly confirm to us that the book forms part of their everyday range of tools. Apparel Manufacturer Weaver, Knitter Yarn Trader Furthermore, Rieter is permanently active in preparing the latest technological findings for Com4 yarns and publishing them. In the trade press, an advertising concept supports promotion of the yarn brand. Fig. 6 Com4 pull-and-push effect in the yarn market Internet Rieter Yarn Brochure Articles in Trade Press Key Visual Yarn Trading Seminars The consistent use of the key visuals the yarn structures is a further important component of publication and ensures a recognition effect. Seminars with yarn traders, yarn sellers and downstream processors such as knitters and weavers are a must for the campaign. Rieter also actively participates at trade fairs at which licensees have the opportunity to present their own products. Promotion Presentation Starter Kit for Licensee Exhibitions, Trade Shows Licensed Com4 spinning plants and downstream processors are supplied with a starter kit with sales-supporting resources. Their success is also our success. Advertisement Concept License Concept Symposia, Customer days Fig. 7 Com4 marketing vehicles and actions

8 8 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns What makes a Com4 yarn so successful? Alongside the flexibility in the process itself, it is far more relevant for the successful textile manufacturer which characteristics the yarns provide (Fig. 8). In order to describe the differences between the Com4 yarns themselves or to compare them to competitor yarns, individual consideration must be given to each aspect. Each Com4 yarn has its own properties not in comparison to other yarns but rather for what the respective Com4 yarns stand. The comparison of the properties is decisive in the selection of the most suitable Com4 yarn for the respective textile application. The description of what sets a Com4 yarn apart when compared to other ring, compact, rotor or air-jet yarns on the market is equally important for the yarn trade and yarn buyers, as well as for the decision of the spinning company in which technology of which supplier to invest. In yarn manufacture, compromises must often be made between quality and costs and this can lead to the benefits offered by a spinning technology not being fully exploited. Thus, a smaller rotor is used to achieve higher productivity which conversely leads to lower yarn volume. Main characteristics of each Com4 yarn Com4 Yarns of Choice Com4 yarn compared among each other Com4 yarn compared to competitor yarns Yarn Properties Downstream Effects Fabric Appearance Applications Fig. 8 Structure of Com4 comparison

9 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 9 What mainly characterizes a Com4 yarn? Many properties are strongly dependent on the yarn count and the raw material used. The tables show the main characteristics of each yarn that can be found in practice (Fig. 9). Com4 ring is characterized by high flexibility in the use of the raw material, the yarn count and the yarn character. It possesses a high degree of strength and high and even yarn hairiness. Com4 compact is also distinguished by extremely high strength, even yarn structure, low hairiness and high yarn density. Com4 rotor demonstrates a very even fabric appearance due to its special structure. With a high short fiber proportion in the raw material, the evenness is even better when compared to other Com4 yarns. Particularly in the main application area of Com4 rotor coarser yarn counts of cotton the yarn shows a low strength variation. The yarn hairiness is to a great degree designable. That means, according to the requirement of the textile end product, high or low yarn hairiness can be produced. Com4 jet has a unique yarn structure with very low, short hairiness. Com4 jet yarn is a voluminous yarn which positively influences the opacity of the yarn in the fabric. Due to its special fiber bonding, it also has a high level of resistance to abrasion. Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Most flexible in raw material, count, characteristics Highest tenacity High optical evenness Unique low hairiness High tenacity Even yarn structure Low variation in tenacity High volume High hairiness Low hairiness Designable hairiness Low tendency for fiber fly High yarn density High abrasion resistance High abrasion resistance High volume Fig. 9 What mainly characterizes a Com4 yarn?

10 10 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns What makes a Com4 yarn so successful in downstream processing? The yarn properties shown above lead to benefits in downstream processing (Fig. 10). Com4 ring basically exhibits good properties in downstream processing. This results in good efficiency and high process speeds, mainly because of the constant yarn quality. Of special note is the benefit with weft insertion on the air-jet weaving machines. Due to the comparably high hairiness, the yarn can be safely transported by the air through the weaving shed. Com4 compact shows great advantages in relation to the process resp. processing speed. The high yarn strength makes the yarn substantially more resistant to the subsequent processes. Low end-down rates in downstream processing, especially in weaving, are recorded. The high strength additionally offers potential in high-grade finishing. Every high-grade finishing process adversely affects the fabric strength. If the yarn is inherently strong, the finishing potential can be far better exploited. Com4 rotor: By the lower strength distribution, stable running characteristics can generally be realized in further processing. Through the special yarn structure, less sizing agent is needed. The yarn does not cling as strongly in the weaving process and the yarn structure absorbs sizing agent more rapidly. If a rotor yarn were to be treated with the same sizing agent recipe as a ring yarn, then the danger of over-sizing would exist. The consequence is that the yarn breaks more frequently, it is stiffer and therefore more brittle. Basically a Com4 rotor yarn exhibits less fiber fly in further processing. This has a direct and positive effect on the required cleaning intervals for the weaving or knitting machine. Com4 jet: At equal color intensity, a Com4 jet fabric requires less color dye with dark colors which leads to a great saving potential in the dyeing plant. This, however, also comprised risks. If the color recipe is not adapted, the fabric will be overdyed resulting in a harder touch and diminished color fastness. Due to the good fiber bonding, the running properties in downstream processing are excellent. As a rule, this is reflected in lower maintenance requirements in the knitting unit. In the weaving plant, the yarn clings far less a lower fiber fly can be registered. Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Good running performance High processing speed Low ends down rate Good picking and low air consumption in air-jet weaving Low yarn breaks during weaving High strength after finishing process Low consumption of size Reduced generation of dust and fiber fly Low dye stuff for comparable color intensity Low clinging tendency Lowest generation of dust and fiber fly Fig. 10 What makes a Com4 yarn so successful in downstream processing?

11 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 11 Positive Com4 textile characteristics for the user Here too, the yarn structure is that which shapes the fabric characteristics (Fig. 11). Fabrics from Com4 ring yarns show predominantly good properties. Especially the opacity in knits due to the high yarn hairiness can be named as a benefit. But also the extremely soft touch of the fabric should be mentioned. Basically, a ring yarn enjoys the greatest acceptance by users by the fact of its long history. Com4 compact has the highest fabric strength. The absolutely clear contour sharpness with printed products, Jacquard and shaft patterns are immediately obvious to the user. The reason for this is the compact yarn structure. Fewer hairs also means less light refraction on the fabric surface Com4 compact products usually show an outstanding surface sheen. Com4 rotor demonstrates a very high optical evenness in the appearance of the fabric particularly with knits. The high abrasion resistance in the yarn is also found in the fabric. The rather open yarn structure provides a great potential in the rough process, e.g. for blankets in the area of household textiles. The best rough surfaces in respect of evenness and longevity are obtained with Com4 rotor products. Com4 jet is the favorite with anti-pilling especially with knitted fabrics. The reason can be found in the special hairiness of the Com4 jet yarns. It is said that a yarn spun according to the open-end principle is a calming yarn. The fibers are in an energy-neutral state. The effect is particularly apparent in the behaviour of a circular knit. The typical seam wandering the shifting of the side seams does not occur with Com4 jet yarns. Due to the yarn structure, the textiles have a very high level of moisture absorption which is beneficial for underwear and sportswear. Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Pleasant soft touch and drape Good opacity High customer acceptance High fabric tenacity Very even fabric appearance Low pilling tendency Absolutely clear defined contours Finest luster High abrasion resistance Good appearance after raising None spirality tendency Quick water absorption Fig. 11 Positive Com4 textile characteristics for the user

12 12 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns In which textile applications are Com4 yarns most commonly found? The yarn characteristics determine the preferred areas of application of the Com4 yarns (Fig. 12). Com4 ring has the most universal area of application. This is mainly in the outerwear and underwear sector but also in the range of home textiles. In terry articles, ring yarns with their typical yarn strength support the sub-structure. The absolute domain of Com4 compact is the fine shirting sector. In addition, high-quality knitted products and superior bed linen produced with fine yarn counts are typical applications. A further field in which Com4 compact excels is the manufacture of socks. Com4 rotor and denim is a symbiosis in the market. Robust workwear as well as home textiles and technical applications such as the base structure of sandpaper are, as a rule, also manufactured from Com4 rotor. The market domination of Com4 jet yarns started with knitted products. Today, bed linen made of regenerated cellulose fibers is also produced with Com4 jet yarns on weaving machines. The advance of Com4 jet yarns will be shown in the future by many more new fields of application. Com4 yarns compared to each other Also when comparing the yarns to each other, the differences in yarn characteristics, properties in downstream processing and the appearance of the end product are importance. The following descriptions are general rules and attempt to show the differences in relation to all the fiber materials and yarn counts. According to the fiber material used and the yarn count, shifts in comparison to the yarn are possible. However, in general the statements made are valid. Basically the tables should be read as follows: the more plus signs, the more positive the described property of the relevant yarn. Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Universal applicable Business shirts Denim Knitwear in general Outerwear High quality knitwear s Workwear Outerwear Underwear Fine bed linen Technical applications Bed linen Home textiles Fine socks Terry clothes Fig. 12 In which textile applications are Com4 yarns mainly to be found?

13 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 13 The following yarn properties in the comparison are highlighted (Fig. 13). High yarn tenacity and elongation: in the comparison Com4 compact demonstrates the highest yarn tenacity and elongation. It is followed by Com4 ring, Com4 jet and Com4 rotor. The differences in elongation are not so great. Com4 ring and Com4 compact show the highest degree of elongation followed by Com4 rotor und Com4 jet. Low variation of the tenacity is an advantage of Com4 compact and Com4 rotor, closely followed by Com4 ring and Com4 jet. This relates to the typical application fields of the yarns. For instance, the low variation of tenacity with rotor with coarse yarn counts and with cotton is more apparent than with finer yarn counts and with blends. Yarn hairiness can be neither described as positive nor negative. It always depends on the textile application in each case. A decisive property is how well the hairiness can be influenced, especially concerning higher or lower, longer or shorter hairiness. The reduction potential of longer hairiness is particularly great with Com4 jet, closely followed by Com4 compact. In comparison, Com4 rotor and Com4 ring have the lowest potential to reduce long hairs. The yarn evenness must be differentiated between mass evenness and optical evenness. The mass evenness measured with the capacitive measuring principle expressed in CVm (%) can be high with one yarn but this does not automatically mean that the yarn in the fabric subsequently looks uneven. For this reason, the Technology Department at Rieter has taken to always producing a knitted tube alongside the technically measured yarn evenness values (optically as well as capacitively), to be able to assess the optical evenness in the fabric. Yarn Properties Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet High tenacity High work capacity Low variation in tenacity* Reduced long hairiness (S3)* High mass evenness* High optical evenness High volume Low tendency for fiber fly * Depending on yarn count and fiber material as more + as more positive Fig. 13 Com4 yarn properties in mutual comparison

14 14 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Yarn volumes: Com4 rotor followed by Com4 jet are the yarns with the greatest yarn volumes. Com4 compact has the lowest natural volume. The staff value the amount of fibers created by rubbing yarn on yarn is an indication for the fiber fly in the further processing. Com4 compact as well as Com4 jet show the best staff values, i.e. the lowest fiber fly tendency. They are followed by Com4 rotor and Com4 ring. Comparison of properties in downstream processing When the properties in downstream processing are observed, then the following parameters should be singled out (Fig. 14). Sizing agent requirement: A Com4 compact and Com4 jet yarn require the lowest amount of sizing agent, closely followed by Com4 rotor. Due to the higher hairiness, Com4 ring yarn needs the highest proportion of sizing agent in order to reduce the clamping tendency in the weaving process. Fiber fly during downstream processing: As already explained, the fiber fly tendency depends not only on the basic yarn hairiness but also on the fiber bonding in the yarn bundle in other words, from the yarn structure. Com4 compact and Com4 jet show here the best characteristics. The number of ends down in downstream processing is closely related to the process speed which, for instance, can be achieved in the weaving plant. The absolute yarn tenacity and also variation of the tenacity are decisive. The lowest ends down rate in downstream processing can be seen with Com4 compact followed by Com4 rotor. Alongside the classic yarn properties, also the bobbin build-up influences the ends down situation in further processing. The integrated bobbin unit in the Rieter rotor and air-jet spinning machines supports a good and even bobbin build-up. Downstream Effects Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Low consumption of size Low clinging tendency Low dust during processing Low yarn breaks during weaving High weaving insertion speeds High dye staff utilisation High strength after finishing processes as more + as more positive Fig. 14 Com4 yarn in downstream processing - mutual comparison

15 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 15 A high degree of dye exploitation is apparent on the one hand, by a high color speed and on the other hand, by a minimal amount of absorbed color at the same color depth resp. intensity. Com4 jet has the best color saturation. The required color depth is quickly achieved with a minimal amount of color. Equally, Com4 rotor and Com4 compact show good color saturation properties due to their structure. Which yarn is the best in relation to the required fabric properties? When the fabrics are compared to each other, the following aspects are notable (Fig. 15). Even fabric appearance: An even fabric appearance results with Com4 rotor and Com4 jet followed by Com4 compact and Com4 ring. The clearest knitted or woven structures are visible with Com4 compact and Com4 jet. The special yarn structures support, for instance, the distinctiveness of pin-stripe suiting. Even classic twill shows a clearly distinct burr when using a Com4 compact or Com4 jet yarn. Low Pilling: Com4 jet fabrics show the lowest tendency to pilling. Com4 compact and Com4 rotor exhibit equal behavior. Com4 ring shows the greatest tendency towards pill formation on the fabric surface. Textile fabrics with the softest touch are undoubtedly produced from Com4 ring yarn. But also Com4 jet and Com4 compact are able to achieve fabrics with a soft touch. In order to manufacture a soft Com4 rotor, the twist factor must be set very low and supportive measures undertaken in textile finishing. Fabric Appearance Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Uniform fabric appearance Clear structures (striping, printing) Low pilling tendency High opacity and volume Soft hand Good raising behaviors High water absorption High abrasion resistance* Reduced spirality High fabric strength Good luster on fabric surface * Depending on fabric construction and fiber material as more + as more positive Fig. 15 Com4 fabrics in mutual comparison

16 16 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Com4 yarns in comparison to competitor yarns Com4 ring stands for consistent yarn quality with low variations and that in a wide diversity of yarn versions compared to competitor ring yarns. A Com4 ring yarn stands out in particular by consistency and high reproducibility of the yarn quality. The high consistency between the spinning positions and between machines of the same construction type across the entire life cycle of the machine provide the yarn seller and yarn buyer with the certitude that they have sold resp. bought a consistent yarn quality. The integration of options for special yarns already forseen by Rieter in the machine construction offers a high degree of flexibility within the Com4 ring yarn. The result of all this compared to the ring yarns of competitors: Com4 ring with the lowest variations between the yarn cops. Com4 ring with lower variations in the yarn quality within the bobbin. Com4 ring creates trust with regard to yarn quality, even with follow-up orders. Com4 compact stands for the highest level of compacting, lowest quality variation, highest yarn tenacity and longest experience in compacting technology worldwide in comparison to compact yarns from competitors. Com4 compact stands out by its constant compacting results over long periods of use. The basis for this is provided by the long life cycle of the compacting elements such as the almost wear-free surfaces of the perforated cage, the centrepiece of the compact spinning machine. Practice confirms the consistently higher tenacity values in comparison to competitor compact yarns. This is achieved by the precise thread guidance during the compacting process. The know-how gained over decades and the experience with yarn compacting are systematically passed on to the Com4 compact customers. The result of all this compared to the compact yarns of competitors: Com4 compact with higher degree of compacting. Com4 compact with consistent compacting results. Com4 compact with higher tenacity values. Com4 compact with faster results with new compact applications. Fig. 16 Com4 ring and Com4 compact yarn

17 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 17 Com4 rotor stands for the lowest achievable yarn twists at certain tenacity, few piecers and the most consistent and yarn-like piecers in comparison to competitor rotor yarns. Com4 rotor yarn has a great potential to reduce the twist factor which is the basic prerequisite for the production of textiles with a soft touch. The stateof-the-art spinning box technology of the R 60 rotor spinning machines facilitates the manufacture of yarns with low yarn twists while simultaneously maintaining yarn tenacity and imperfection level. The low number of start-up joints is a further difference compared to competitor rotor yarns. The optimal running properties of the modern spinning box technology lead to a minimal number of ends-down during the spinning process. The easy realization of the optimal setting for optical and strength-optimized spinning start-up achieved by an intelligent spinning start-up system with the start-up function AEROpiecing ensures yarn-like piecers. Com4 jet yarn exhibits unique yarn hairiness and invisible piecers when compared to air-spun competitor yarns. The different hairiness character to that of competitor air-jet yarns is attributable to the different fiber guidance in the spinning process in the so-called fiber feeding element (FFE). The greatest and most decisive difference compared to competitors is the spinning start-up system. Setting of a joint such as with Com4 jet can be made far more easily and precisely in relation to optics and tenacity. The result of all this compared to the air-jet yarns of competitors: Com4 jet fabrics with lower pilling tendency. Com4 jet yarn with fewer ends-down in further processing. Com4 jet yarn with invisible yarn piecings. The result of all this compared to the rotor yarns of competitors: Com4 rotor yarn optimal for soft knitted fabrics. Com4 rotor yarn with better downstream processing properties. Com4 rotor yarn with invisible piecers in the fabric. Fig. 17 Com4 rotor and Com4 jet yarn

18 18 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Com4 yarns in practice Yarn count range and Co. A look at practical application highlights further differences between the 4 spinning technologies. A decisive parameter for the selection of the suitable spinning process is the yarn fineness (Fig. 18). Com4 ring has the greatest flexibility in the choice of the yarn count and in practice the spinning range covers Ne Com4 compact is seen in practice in the range from Ne Com4 rotor is found rather in practice in the coarse range from Ne 2 to Ne 60. However, Ne 60 can only be produced with microfibers. Com4 jet is currently still limited as regards yarn count. Today, Ne 24 Ne 70 is being spun in practice. Ne 70 is also only produced with microfibers, as the minimal number of fibers in the yarn cross-section should not be less than approx. 95 fibers. Ring spinning Compact spinning Rotor spinning Air-jet spinning Yarn count in Ne*: Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet * Practical values Fig. 18 Yarn count range in comparison

19 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 19 It all depends on the raw material The choice of raw material and yarn type depends on the question of how the spinning process deals with the characteristics of the fiber material as well as the combination of fiber property and yarn structure (Fig. 19). cotton is mainly processed to Com4 ring and Com4 rotor yarns. cotton is processed to Com4 ring, Com4 compact and Com4 jet yarns. With Com4 rotor there is no point in using combed feeds, as the required volume and the yarn structure is removed from the yarn without creating additional new benefits. Cellulose fibers such as Viscose, Modal or Lyocell are processed in practice from Com4 ring, Com4 rotor and Com4 jet. Cellulose fibers or synthetically produced fibers lead to such high yarn tenacities and low hairiness values that a compacting process brings no benefits to Com4 ring yarn in the majority of cases. The consequence in practice the raw material is seldom processed to compact yarns. Synthetic fiber materials are implemented with Com4 ring and Com4 rotor. Com4 jet is still in the development stage with regard to these applications. If, however, the synthetic proportion is smaller than 50 %, then Com4 jet is also a possible application. With regenerated fibers that are characterized by high trash contents and high proportions of short fibers, the Com4 rotor process clearly dominates. No other spinning technology can extract trash so well during the spinning process and use short fibers as filling fibers in the yarn cross-section. Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Com4 jet Cotton carded Cotton combed Cellulosic fibers Synthetics CO with < 50 % Cellulosic CO with > 50 % Cellulosic CO with < 50 % PES CO with > 50 % PES Cellulosic with PES Blends with other MMF Regenerated fibers main application; + seldom application Fig. 19 Raw material in practical use, split up according to Com4 yarn

20 20 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Speed Fig. 20 Production speeds in comparison Speed is not everything Independent of the raw material and yarn fineness, a clear difference is apparent between the processes (Fig. 20): Com4 rotor is 10 times quicker than ring and compact Com4 jet is 20 times quicker than ring and compact Alongside many other influencing factors, this is naturally reflected in the yarn manufacturing costs. The different processes have different yarn manufacturing costs. In the graph the manufacturing costs are shown, taking into account the costs for personnel, energy, consumable material, capital and waste but, however, without raw material costs using Tencel / Cotton in the count ranges Ne 30 / 20 tex; Ne 40 / 15 tex und Ne 50 / 12 tex. The cost differences between the yarn types fluctuate according to the yarn counts (Fig. 21). Index Economics of various Com4 yarn manufacturing processes 50/50 Tencel / Cotton, Indonesia Air-jet combed Ring combed Compact combed Rotor carded Air-jet combed Ring combed Compact combed Rotor carded Air-jet combed Ring combed Compact combed Rotor carded Ne 30 / 20 tex Ne 40 / 15 tex Ne 50 / 12 tex without raw material cost Cost of waste Labor costs Energy costs Cost of auxiliary materials Capital costs Fig. 21 Com4 yarn manufacturing costs in comparison

21 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 21 Evenness CVm [%] Evenness depending on yarn count for Com4 yarns 100 % cotton carded Yarn count [Ne] Source: M-T / TIS date base Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 rotor Fig. 22 Yarn evenness of carded cotton yarns in comparison Headstart through experience For decades, test results derived by the customer technology from practical applications as well as findings from tests in the SpinCenter have been collected worldwide in a central database. This accumulated knowledge helps to assess the 4 spinning systems from Rieter. Fig. 22 to Fig. 24 show extracts from the Rieter yarn statistics. The graphs emphasize Rieter s technological know-how. Many quality parameters are strongly dependent on the yarn fineness as well as on the raw material used. It is clearly seen that due to the yarn properties, typical areas of application in relation to the yarn count of each yarn type have emerged in practice. For instance, rotor yarn which possesses numerous positive yarn characteristics especially in the coarse count range. Breaking tenacity depending on yarn count for Com4 yarns 100 % cotton combed Breaking tenacity [cn/tex] Yarn count [Ne] Source: M-T / TIS date base Com4 ring Com4 compact Com4 jet Fig. 23 Yarn tenacity of combed cotton yarns in comparison

22 22 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Evenness CVm [%] Evenness depending on yarn count for Com4 yarns 100 % viscose Yarn count [Ne] Source: M-T / TIS date base Com4 ring Com4 rotor Com4 jet Fig. 24 Evenness of Viscose yarn in comparison The right process makes all the difference Complete Rieter plants, from bales through to yarn, carded or combed, guarantee the best yarn qualities by greatest fiber utilization with the most efficient spinning process (Fig. 25). As only textile machine manufacturer worldwide, Rieter provides competent advice for the entire spinning plant. Only command of all 4 spinning processes allows neutral recommendations, tailor-made to the individual requirements of the customer. The shortest process in comparison is used for the manufacture of Com4 rotor yarns, followed by Com4 jet, Com4 ring and Com4 compact. Blowroom / Card Spinning Preparation for each process different process stages are possible Endspinning Ring Spinning Process carded VARIOline Card Compact Spinning Process combed Draw frame Draw frame SERVOlap Roving frame Ring spinning VARIOline Card Draw frame Combing preparation Comber Draw frame Roving frame Compact spinning Rotor Spinning Process VARIOline Card Draw frame Rotor spinning Air-Jet Spinning Process VARIOline Card Draw frame Draw frame Draw frame Air-Jet spinning Fig. 25 Complete manufacturing process of the Com4 yarns in comparison

23 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 23 Yarn segmentation knowledge of the yarn application helps in making a decision In order to be able to evaluate the suitability of yarns for specific applications, the 4 yarn types on the market must be segmented. The Rieter yarn segmentation model exclusively related to shortstaple spinning (Fig. 26) examines the 4 yarn types in respect to the demands of the different textile applications. An evaluation criterion is the quality described by yarn characteristics and downstream processing properties according to textile application. Rieter Yarn Segmentation Model QUALITY Yarn character Down stream behaviors Fig. 26 Rieter yarn segmentation model Installed Base Spindle equivalent Ring-, Compact-, Rotor-, Air-jet Yarn FLEXIBILITY Count range Raw material Textile Application Conversion Costs High cost country Low cost country The criterion flexibility is describable by the yarn count range and the possible raw material use. The yarn manufacturing costs are differentiated by high and low-wage countries. Thus, all the criteria a downstream processor must consider to select the best yarn for the required textile application. The model thereby covers the analysis of the current state and the potential of the 4 yarn types under various aspects. Analysis of the current state of production capacities Ring spinning is still the most dominant process (Fig. 27). In terms of spindle equivalents, i.e. taking differences in production speed into account, the distribution of spinning positions is as follows: 1 % air-jet spin boxes, 8 % compact spinning spindles, 15 % rotor spin boxes and 76 % ring spinning spindles. The basis is supplied by information from the ITMFs (International Textile Machinery Federation). 15 % 1 % 8 % 76 % Source: ITMF 2011; internal Productivity factor: Ring; Compact: 1 Rotor: 5.2 Air-jet: 20 Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Fig. 27 Distribution of production positions of the 4 spinning technologies on the market

24 24 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns What does this mean with regard to yarn production? At present, approx. 26 million tons of ring yarn are produced annually. This is followed by 13 million tons of rotor yarn, 2 million tons of compact yarn and currently 0.4 million tons of air-jet yarn. Totally, between 41 and 42 million tons of staple fiber yarns are manufactured annually, when the ITMF sources for the installed basis as well as the worldwide fiber consumption figures from the PCI Fibres (GB) statistics are combined. Actual Yarn Production Potential Yarn Production Average machine productivity 92 %/a Ring: Ne 40; 0.35 kg/d/pos Compact: Ne 50; 0.27 kg/d/pos Rotor: Ne 24; 4.65 kg/d/pos Air-jet: Ne 30; 9.05 kg/d/pos t/a t/a Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Source: ITMF installed base 2011 Rieter yarn segmentation model - average productions Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model - potential yarn use per application Fig. 28 Comparison of actual and potential yarn production according to the textile application

25 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 25 Where the journey leads to If the yarns are assessed according to the specific applications, then the potential production of each yarn within the Rieter segmentation model can be derived. In other words, the statement can be made how many yarns per type must be spun when the yarn properties are optimally considered for the application. The fiber consumption combined with the potential analysis taken from the Rieter segmentation model shows the greatest growth potential of compact and air-jet yarns. The growth decrease is mainly expected in the field of ring spinning. Observation on a percentage basis in terms of the weight resp. the yarn fineness means that currently 63 % of all yarns are produced on ring spinning machines, 31 % on rotor spinning machines, 5 % on compact spinning machines as well as 1 % on air-jet spinning machines (Fig. 29). The potential, however, foresees a distribution of 40 % ring yarn, 23 % rotor yarn, 19 % compact yarn and 18 % air-spun yarn. Actual Yarn Production Potential Yarn Production 1 % 18 % 31 % 63 % 40 % 23 % 5 % Total yarn production: 41 Mio t/a Average machine productivity 92 %/a Ring: Ne 40; 0.35 kg/d/pos Compact: Ne 50; 0.27 kg/d/pos Rotor: Ne 24; 4.65 kg/d/pos Source: ITMF installed base 2011 Air-jet: Ne 30; 9.05 kg/d/pos Rieter yarn segmentation model - average productions 19 % 41 Mio t yarn Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model - potential yarn use per application Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Fig. 29 Comparison in percentage of actual to potential yarn production based on the spinning technology with optimal operation in respect of textile application

26 26 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Premium through combing 20 % of all staple fiber yarns worldwide are combed (Fig. 30). However, it would be wrong to leave this statement just as it stands. Defined more precisely, almost 80 % of all compact yarns are combed and 25 % of all ring yarns. Rotor yarns are, in practice, not even combed. Air-jet yarns have a 30 % ratio of combed raw material. If the installed basis of the combing machine is compared to this, then the value is confirmed. Between % of all short staple fibers are and can be combed by the installed machines. Approx combers are operating in the market worldwide. Taking into consideration the different models, manufacturer and age, this machine park can produce comber sliver at an average of 0.76 t / day and machine. For logistic reasons, combing machines have lower machine efficiency times per year than end spinning machines. They are in operation around 75 % of the time. Theoretically, 11.7 million tons of cotton material per year can be combed. This represents in purely mathematical terms 28 % combed premium yarns including blended qualities. Actual Fiber Preparation Distribution Actual Yarn Type Distribution by Fiber Preparation 20 % 80 % 100 % 90 % 80 % 70 % 60 % 50 % 40 % 30 % 20 % 10 % 0 % Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Source: Rieter Yarn Segmentation application distribution Total amount: 41 Mio t Source: Rieter Yarn Segmentation application distribution Total amount: 41 Mio t Fig % of all staple fiber yarns worldwide are combed

27 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 27 Blends increasingly gaining ground With a view to the distribution of the fiber material (Fig. 31), ring is the most flexible process that is able to process all raw materials, closely followed by rotor yarn. Compact yarns are not strongly represented in the synthetic field. Air-jet yarn has the greatest potential to process all raw materials with the exception of special fibers such as a bulky Polyamide or too coarse fibers. Material blends in textile fabrics are realized by two methods: yarn blends within the fabric structure or yarns from intimately blended fibers are processed to create fabric. The potential analysis clearly shows that in accordance with the requirements of the various textile applications, the addition of synthetic and cellulosic fibers offers great adaptation possibilities with regard to fabric characteristics. The proportion of textile fabric with more than one fiber component will further increase, not only for reasons of cost. Potentional Raw Material Distribution Based on potential application needs Potentional Raw Material Distribution per Yarn Type Based on potential application needs 9 % 16 % 27 % 100 % 80 % 60 % 12 % 40 % 20 % 4 % 2 % 30 % 0 % CO CO Blends PAN PES PES Blends Cellulosics Cell Blends Source: Rieter yarn segmentation model Source: Rieter yarn segmentation model CO CO Blends PAN PES Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet PES Blends Cellulosics Cell Blends Fig. 31 Potential raw material distribution between the 4 yarn types

28 28 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns Whether coarse or fine The result of the potential analysis of the yarn counts is closely aligned to current practice (Fig. 32). In the count range of each yarn type, no great changes are expected. Merely the percentage ratio of each count classification will, in future, change due to compact and air-jet yarns. The distribution in the textile application fields The textile world, divided into woven and knitted goods, must appear as follows from the aspect of its potential: 73 % (weight-dependent) woven goods and 27 % knitted goods. This is mainly based on the fact that woven goods have a substantially denser structure and are therefore heavier. The actual deliveries 2012 correspond very well to the potential analysis. The ratio is today and will also in future be 2/3 woven goods, 1/3 knitted goods. Potentional Yarn Count Distribution by Yarn Type (Ne) Based on potential application needs 100 % 90 % 80 % 70 % 60 % 50 % 40 % 30 % 20 % 10 % 0 % < > 60 Source: Rieter yarn segmentation model Ring Compact Rotor Air-jet Fig. 32 Potential yarn count distribution between the 4 yarn types Actual Application Distribution Potentional Application Distribution Based on potential yarn use per application 32 % 68 % 73 % 27 % Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model Total amount: 41 Mio t Excluding filament part inside fabric Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model Total yarn production: 41 Mio t/a Knitting Weaving Fig. 33 Weight division in percentage between woven and knitted goods. Potential and actual data

29 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns 29 Actual Application Distribution 8 % 5 % If the textile application areas for 2012 are further analyzed, the following picture emerges (Fig. 34). 21 % 66 % The graph shows a weight distribution in the fabrics, without the proportion of filament. That means the 42 million tons do not include the weight of the processed filament yarns. On average, the finished textiles are today comprised of 39 % filament yarn which gives a weight percentage of approx. 23 million tons filament yarn. Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model - application distribution Total amount: 41 Mio t Excluding filament part inside fabric 66 % of the textiles are produced in the classic outwear segment, 21 % home textiles, 8 % technical textiles and 5 % underwear. Underwear Outerwear Home textiles Technical textiles Fig. 34 Delivery distribution 2012 according to textile application The areas of application broken down further into the yarn types again illustrate (Fig. 35) the flexible use of ring yarns. Actual Yarn Type Distribution by Application t/a* Ring Ring Compact Compact Rotor Air-jet Air-jet Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model - application distribution * Excluding filament part inside fabric Underwear Outerwear Home textiles Technical textiles Fig. 35 Delivery distribution 2012 according to yarn type and textile application

30 30 Rieter. Rieter Com4 Yarns With compact yarn, practically the whole proportion (86 %) is found in the outwear sector. With ring it is only 69 %. A clear split-up of the application can be seen with rotor yarn. Scarcely 50 % is used in technical and home textiles. With air-jet yarn a similar division is apparent. The largest yarn amount is produced in the count range Ne (Fig. 36). This amounts to approx. 14 million tons staple fiber yarn. The count range Ne represents around 11 million tons of yarn; the third largest range Ne 6 16 just 8 million tons and the fine range Ne around 6 million tons of yarn. In the superfine range greater than Ne 60, approx. 1.6 million tons are produced. The very coarse yarns smaller than Ne 6 show a figure of 0.8 million tons of yarn. Which yarn is the best for which textile application? The Rieter segmentation model offers the possibility of a neutral assessment which yarn is the best for which textile application. The assessment criteria are the 3 key features yarn quality (yarn character resp. yarn properties as well as downstream processing properties), flexibility in use with regard to raw material and yarn count and finally the yarn manufacturing costs in a high and a low-cost country. Taking the underwear sector as an example, Fig. 37 illustrates how the recommendation of the right yarn deviates according to the weighting points of the criteria. For a spinning plant or a fabric manufacturer, the yarn quality can be more important than the flexibility or the manufacturing costs. Actual Yarn Count Distribution by Application With differing weighting of the individual parameters, the model recommends the 4 Rieter yarn types taking into account the feed fiber preparations, carded or combed, as well as the available options core, vario or twin t/a* < > 60 Source: PCI 2012 Rieter segmentation model - application distribution * Excluding filament part inside fabric Underwear Outerwear Home textiles Technical textiles Fig. 36 Delivery distribution 2012 according to yarn count and textile application