For the. VERMONT CASTINGS Defiant Model 1945 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Transcription

1 For the VERMONT CASTINGS Defiant Model 1945 TABLE OF CONTENTS History of Changes Exploded View and Parts List Service Procedures Assembly and Disassembly Gasketing Appendix

2 HISTORY OF CHANGES DEFIANT Model 1945 This section covers the Defiant Model 1945, built beginning in In 2002, Vermont Castings changed the Defiant stove to remove the attached legs and provide a reversible flue collar. The model designate changed from 1910 to Switched to thicker gasket on the air plates to prevent thermostat pinching 3/12/2002 Changed door glass gasket from Fibrefax one piece gasket to rope style 9/26/2002 Modified doors for better fit and sealing 11/11/2002 Changed to larger diameter gasket around flue collar 5/6/2003 Replace Nickel handles with Brushed Nickel and Black fallaway handle 5/12/2006 Replace Black Ceramic handle with wooden handle 08/06/2007 Start shipping Defiants with legs attached 7/10/2008

3 CFM Corporation Replacement Parts / 803 CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time, without notice. Defiant Woodburning Stove Model 1945 Item Description Part Number 1. Secondary Air Cover Plate Secondary Air Probe Assy Secondary Air Link Secondary Air Flap Griddle Gasket Item Description Part Number 6. Back Left Heat Deflector Right Heat Deflector Refractory Assy (Body only) Catalytic Combustor (Boxed) WS - 2 Wood Stove Products

4 CFM Corporation Replacement Parts Defiant Woodburning Stove Model 1945 (continued) Item Description 11. Refractory Access Panel Thermostat Friction Spring Left Griddle Quadrant Right Griddle Quadrant Griddle Griddle Handle Griddle Handle Spacer Griddle Handle Bolt Upper Fireback Assy Damper Ramp Upper Firebrick Damper Damper Tab Damper Rod Griddle Handle Bushing Throat Baffle Lower Fireback Upper Fireback Bolt Damper Handle Screw Damper Handle Damper Handle Base Assy Left Side See Chart Pg Left Air Plate (Inner Side) Right Air Plate (Inner Side) Right Side See Chart Pg Thermostat Handle Base Assy Thermostat Assy Grate Primary Air Cover Plate Top Ashdoor Hinge Support Door Handle Holder Bottom Ashlip See Chart Pg Left Side Wedge Right Side Wedge Firebrick (1¹ ₄ x 4¹ ₂ x 9 ) Firebrick Retainer Andiron Andiron Shelf Leg Leveller Ashdoor Handle Shaft Door Latch Assy Ashdoor Ashdoor Handle (Wood) Ashdoor Hinge Rod Cotter Pin, Ashdoor Ashdoor Bottom Hinge Support Ashpan Bracket Primary Air Valve Assy Primary Air Frame Primary Air Rod Wood Stove Products Part Number Item Description Part Number 62. Primary Air Valve Thermostat Handle (Wood) Airwash Manifold Front See Chart Pg Thermostat Cable Left Door See Chart Pg Door Hinge Strip Top See Chart Pg Glass Clip Glass Clip (Right Door only) Front Door Handle & Shaft Right Door See Chart Pg Door Gasket Gasket, Fiberglas 3/16 4nd, Blk Left Door Glass Right Door Glass Lower Door Hinge Pin Spacer (for Damper Rod) Upper Door Hinge Pin Handle Base Stub Wood Handle Handle Bolt Thermostat Handle Bolt Ash Pan Assy Flat Washer Flue Collar See Chart Pg Leg See Chart Pg Finish Bag Washer, 1/4 Flat Hex Head Jam Nut Bottom Heat Shield (not shown) Ashdoor Heat Shield (not shown) HS Spacer 1.25 (not shown) Control Spacer (not shown) NOTES: In this diagram and throughout this manual, left and right mean as you face the stove. When ordering parts, be sure to mention the stove s model number. When ordering external pars, be sure to specify color. 1. Included in Item #19, # Upper Fireback Assy. 2. Not interchangeable, due to a heat-reflective coating on the room side of the glass. 3. Included in Item #59, Primary Air Assy. Order #4345 for a black ceramic handle. The hardware in the Defiant is in standard sizes; most bolts are 1/4 diameter by 20 threads per inch. Any hardware store can supply replacement hardware if you specify bolt diameter, number of threads per inch and length. WS - 3

5 CFM Corporation Replacement Parts Defiant Woodburning Stove Model 1945 (continued) Shell Enamel Parts - Defiant Enamel Color Top Left Side Right Side Front Ashlip Leg Classic Biscuit Bordeaux Chestnut Brown Ebony Forest Green Midnight Blue Sand Suede Brown Vermont Classic Green Shell Enamel Parts - Defiant Enamel Left Door Left Door Right Door Right Door Color Flue Collar Subassembly Only Subassembly Only Classic * * Biscuit Bordeaux Chestnut Brown Ebony Forest Green Midnight Blue Sand Suede Brown Vermont Classic Green *NOTE: Does not contain glass or glass gasket. Gaskets /16 Medium Density 6ND Fiberglass Gasket 4.2 Upper Fireback 3.5 Damper 4.3 Lower Fireback /8 Low Density 6ND Fiberglass Gasket 2.8 Right Door 3.9 Left Door 3.9 Ashdoor 4.7 Each Air Plate Gasket, Fiberglass 3/16 4nd, Blk 3.5 each Glass Preformed 1/8 Gasket 1 Primary Air Frame /16 Gasket Wire Fiberglass w/core 4.25 Griddle (top) /16 Adhesive Backed Gasket 4.2 Flue Collar Packed Inside the Stove (Stove Bag ) /8 Allen Wrench /32 Allen Wrench #10 x 3/4 black Sheet Metal Screw Phillips Pan Head (3 for stovepipe) Griddle Knob Griddle Handle Spacer Flat 1/4 Washer Griddle Handle Bushing (2 used) /4-20 x 1 Phillips Round Hd Black (Griddle Handle Screw) Damper Wood Handle /4-20 x 3 Slotted Pan Hd (Damper Handle Screw) Ceramic Fallaway Handle Assembly Handle Lifter Screw Thermostat Wood Handle WS - 4 Wood Stove Products

6 DEFIANT 1945 HARDWARE /4-20 X 3/4 Hex Head Cap Screw ( 3-bottom to side and front, 1-each side to /4-20 x 3/8 Hex Head Cap Screw ( 2-each door hinge strip ) front, 4-upper fireback to back, 2-each air plate to sides, 2-ashpan bracket to ash x ½ Zinc Phillips Pan Head Screw ( 2-each of 4 glass clips ) door, 1-each side to back, 1-each side to top, 1-center of front air manifold to front ) x ¼ Phillips Pan Head Screw ( 2-secondary air assembly ) /4-20 x 5/8 Black Hex Head Cap Screw /4-20 x 1 ¼ Cup Point Socket Set Screw ( 2-front air manifold to front ) ( 1-damper ramp adjuster ) Washer, Zinc ¼ Flat ( 4-upper fireback to back, 1-front air /4-20 x 1 Phillips Flat Head Screw ( 1-damper ramp ) manifold to front, 2-each air plate to sides, 3- bottom bracket to bottom, 1-top hinge to Washer, 1/4 Plain Flat 7/8 OD ( 3-bottom to side and front, 2-each side to top, 2-andiron shelf, 1-each side to back, 2- bottom ) /4-20 x 5/8 Zinc Flat Head Phillips Screw each door hinge strip ) ( 2-ashlip to bottom, 1-top to front ) /8 Narrow Washer /4-20 x ½ Black Socket Flat Head Cap Screw ( 1-damper rod ) ( 1-top to front [replaced ] ) /16 Narrow Spacer /4-20 Hex Nut ( 1-damper rod ) ( 2- top to ends, 2-damper ramp) /4-20 x ¼ Knl Cup Point socket Set Screw /4-20 x 1 ¼ Threaded Rod ( 1-thermostat stub ) ( 2-top to ends ) /4-20 Plain Square Nut x ¼ - Z Truss Head Phillips ( 2-flue collar to top ) ( 4-back heat shield taps ) /4-20 x 1 Black Phillips Round Head Screw /4-20 x ½ SS Hex Head Cap Screw ( 2-flue collar to top, 1-griddle handle ) ( 2-andiron shelf ) /4-20 x 5/8 Black Phillips Round Head Screw Friction Spring ( 2-primary air valve to bottom ) ( 1-primary air control ) Ash Pan Hinge Pin /16 Hole Plug ( 1-bottom assembly ) ( 1-stove back ) /8-16 x ½ Zinc Slot Round Head Washer, ¼ Flat.294 id x.620 od SS ( 4-leg hole filler for shipping only) ( primary air assembly ) /4-20 x 1 Z Hex Head Leveller Bolt /4-20 x 3/8 Black Socket Head Cap Screw ( 1-in each of the four legs ) ( 1-primary air valve ) Bushing x 1 Zinc Phillips Pan Head Screw ( 2-griddle handle ) ( 2-ashdoor shield taps ) Washer, ¼ Narrow Flat /4-20 x 1 Black Hex Head Cap Screw ( 1-griddle handle ) ( 1-top ashdoor hinge to bottom ) /8-16 x ¾ Hex Head Bolt x ½ Zinc Hex Head Cap Screw ( 4-legs to bottom ) ( 4-heat shield taps in bottom ) /8 Z Flat Washer /8-16 Toplock Zinc Hex Head Jam Nut ( 4-legs to bottom ) ( 1-ashdoor pawl, 1 front door pawl ) /4-20 x 3 Z Slot Pan Head /4-20 x 2 Black Phillips Pan Head ( 1-damper handle ) ( 2- side primary air cover plate holes to /4-20 x 3 3/8 Slot Oval Head bottom ) ( 1-fallaway handle ) /4-20 x 1 1/4 Black Ph Pan Head Screw x 2 Z Slot Round Head ( 1-back primary air cover plate hole to ( 1-thermostat knob ) Damper Tab bottom ) /4-20 x ½ Hex Head Cap Screw ( 2-upper fireback, 1-damper ) ( 1-each griddle quad, 2-damper tabs UFB, 1- damper for tab )

7 SERVICE PROCEDURES DEFIANT Model 1945 This section covers repairs and adjustments to the model 1945 Defiant Stoves built since Most service procedures for this model are identical to those for the previous model 1910 Defiant. Wear gloves, a dust mask and protective eyewear when servicing a stove. REPLACING THE REFRACTORY PACKAGE 1. Open the damper and remove the handle stub ( faucet ). 2. Remove the slotted andirons and andiron shelf. Remove the two 7/16 hex head bolts. Lift out the andirons and the shelf. 3. Remove the throat baffle by lifting straight up and disengaging the support brackets on the lower fireback. Take it out of the stove. See Fig. 1 Fig. 1 Remove Throat Baffle 4. Pry the firebrick retainer clip off the firebricks. Remove the bricks and the clip (Fig. 2).

8 5. Pry up and remove the left and right wedges. Pull the lower fireback forward and remove it from the firebox. You may need to lift it slightly to remove it. Slide the top of the lower fireback forward and simply lift it out of the firebox (Fig. 3). Fig. 2 Remove Bricks Fig. 3 Remove Lower Fireback 6. If the damper is closed, open it. Use an Allen key wrench to remove the damper handle stub from the left end of the damper rod. 7. If in place, remove the rear heat shield. Use a 7/16 ratchet socket to remove the four bolts at the top/back of the stove holding the upper fireback assembly in place. 8. Remove the upper fireback assembly by swinging its right end forward. Watch the left end to be sure it clears its hole in the left side of the stove. Capture the damper rod spacer in the left side of the stove and make sure the small washer stays on or with the damper rod. Removing the right air plate (2-7/16 hex head cap screws) may make the removal of the upper fireback easier. 9. Remove the left and right stainless steel deflectors. 10. Gently slide the entire refractory package straight forward and remove it. Do not lift the chamber until it has cleared the secondary air probe stick through the back of the assembly or remove the probe on the back of the stove before sliding the package out. The chamber is very fragile and must be handled with care. 11. Remove the access panel and the catalytic element from the old refractory package. Install the catalytic element in the new refractory package and insert new access panel. 12. Reverse the above procedure to complete the installation

9 REPLACING THE PRIMARY AIR CABLE 1. Remove the throat baffle. 2. Remove the right wedge lodged between the right wear plate and the lower fireback and bricks. 3. Remove the right wear plate (bolts at top and bottom, 7/16 heads). 4. Remove the thermostat handle from the thermostat stem with an Allen wrench. 5. Pull the thermostat and stem assembly into the firebox. Be sure to hang onto the friction spring on the stem. 6. Remove the primary air frame and valve assembly. Pull the frame away from the stove bottom and to the right gently, to protect the primary air rod. 7. Detach the old cable from both ends. Be sure to keep the small clip that joins the upper end of the cable to the thermostat. 8. Fish the new cable through the primary air opening at the bottom of the right side of the firebox and through the primary air frame opening at the back bottom of the stove. 9. Attach both ends of the cable. Be sure the cable hangs properly from the rod on the thermostat stem, and passes under the stem. Be sure the friction spring is on the thermostat stem; push the stem through its hole in the stove side and re-attach the handle with the Allen bolt. Swing the handle back and forth to ensure that there s a bit of tension on the friction spring. If there s not enough tension on the spring to hold the thermostat assembly in place when you release it, loosen the Allen bolt on the handle stem and push the stem further out through the stove side, and re-attach the handle. 10. Clean the primary air frame and its mating surface of any old stove cement. Bolt the frame back into position, and test the thermostat action to be sure the valve nearly closes when the handle is swung fully to the rear. 11. Replace the right wear plate, with the two hex bolts, and replace the wedge that held the lower fireback and bricks in place. 12. Replace throat baffle.

10 ADJUSTING THE DAMPER The tension on the Defiant s damper is adjustable to compensate for compression of the gasket that seals the damper to the upper fireback. To adjust the damper: 1. Remove the griddle. Loosen the lock nut in the centre of the damper (Fig. 3). 2. Use the Allen wrench supplied with your stove; turn the pressure screw about one-half turn clockwise to increase the tension or counter-clockwise to lessen the tension. 3. Test the damper s closing action. Do not over-tighten the screw, as this can cause binding when the parts expand under heat. 4. When the damper closes smoothly and snugly, tighten the lock nut and replace the griddle. (Fig. 3) Fig. 3 Adjust the damper Fig. 4 Damper components ADJUSTING THE FRONT DOORS The doors are factory-set to ensure a good seal between them and the stove front. If necessary you can adjust their position slightly by loosening the bolts that hold them to the hinge strips on their edges. Defiant doors are held on by two hinge pins which are secured to the inside of the door with a hinge strip held on by two 7/16 hex head bolts. To adjust the door properly you must first determine which door or doors are out of alignment. To do this, close the doors slowly and observe how they line up. Do not remove the doors from the unit. Based on what you see, slightly back off the bolts in the hinge strip holding the misaligned door so that the door may move relative to the hinge strip and pins. Close the doors again and adjust the loosened door so that it fits properly with the other door. Carefully open the door again and re-tighten the hinge strip bolts. Reclose and check to ensure a good fit. Repeat until a desirable fit is achieved. Be patient. It may require several attempts..

11 REPLACING THE TOP 1. Remove the stovetop griddle and the flue collar. 2. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the countersunk bolt going through the top at A in Fig. 5 below. 3. Use the 7/6" box wrench, and the ratchet with the 7/16" socket to remove a hex nut and the washer from the two threaded studs passing through clevises at B in Fig. 5 below. 4. Use the rubber mallet or a hammer with a block of wood (to cushion the impact), to gently tap against the underside of the stove top all around the perimeter inside the firebox. This will break the cement seal between the stovetop and the rest of the stove body. When the top moves independently of the stove body, carefully lift it off and set it aside. Be especially careful if the panel is enameled. It is heavy so it may take two people to lift off the top. 5. Carefully clean all the cemented ends on the stove sides, front and back with a hammer and a chisel. These surfaces must be as clean as possible for a proper refitting of the top. Take care not to damage porcelain surfaces as cured furnace cement will remove the porcelain finish it is adhered to during any cleaning process. 6. Dry fit the top to make sure there is no rocking caused by uneven cleaning of the stove body parts. The top should fit snugly with no excessive rocking. If uneven, re-clean or gently file any high spots. Installing the top with an uneven top surface could cause cracking of the new top. 7. To assemble the top, apply cement to the perimeter grooves on the underside of the stovetop in the same locations as the old top. It may take two people to lift the top and flip it over. Carefully lift the top, flip it right-side up, and place it on the stove body. When settling down, align the threaded stud on each end with the mating clevises at B as shown in exploded view. Put washers and hex nuts on the studs; tighten hand-tight. Install a countersunk bolt at A as shown in the exploded view and tighten all the three pieces of hardware. Do not attempt to make up for an uneven top fit by over tightening the hardware. 8. Carefully clean any excess stove cement from the outside surfaces with a damp cloth. This is especially important for any porcelain surfaces. 9. Install new griddle and flue collar gaskets and re-install the griddle and flue collar. 10. Smoke test the top if possible to check for sealing

12 Fig.5 Replace the Defiant top

13 GASKETING THE DAMPER/UPPER FIREBACK 1. Remove the throat Baffle from the fireback lifting it up and off the retaining tabs in the upper fireback (Fig. 6). Fig.6 Remove Throat Baffle Fig.7 Remove Lower Fireback 2. Remove the left and right wedges that hold the lower fireback and bricks in place, and remove the lower fireback brick retainer and bricks (Fig. 7) 3. Remove the left and right inner walls each has a hex-head bolt at top and bottom. These inner walls are gasketed so you re not breaking a cement seal here. You may need to pry these walls out with a screwdriver going into notches at their forward edges--if the stove is enameled, protect the surfaces near the notch. 4. Remove the Allen bolt from the damper handle, and slide the handle off. 5. The fireback is held in place by two hex head bolts on each upper side of the back. Remove the four bolts. 6. Remove the upper fireback assembly through the firebox. You may need to use a large screwdriver to pry it loose from the stove back. As you face the stove, remove the righthand end first. 7. Remove the damper from the upper fireback by removing bolted tabs at each end. 8. Remove the original gasketing by pulling it out of its channel, and then clean the channel with a wire brush. 9. Apply a narrow bead of stove cement to the bottom of the gasket groove, and lay the gasketing into the channel. Do not stretch or bunch the gasket unless you need to compensate for parts that have changed shape slightly. Close the damper and lock it closed; check the seal with a slip of paper to ensure tightness. Leave the damper closed for a few hours if you can, to ensure that the cement sets up well. 10. Work in reverse order to re-install the upper fireback; apply cement to the backs of the ends of the upper fireback before re-installing.

14 TIGHTENING THE PRIMARY AIR HANDLE The primary air handle may fall down to the half open position and feel loose. There is a friction spring on the inside of the stove that must be under tension to work. The actual air damper handle is the mechanism that holds the spring tight. 1. Using the Allen key supplied with your stove, remove the primary air handle. You will see the D shaft of the primary air thermostat assembly protruding. 2. Using a socket set with a 7/16 socket, remove the two bolts holding the gasketed right air plate on the inside of the right side and slide the plate out of the stove. 3. Ensure the spring and washer are in place on the primary air thermostat assembly. The washer goes on the inside of the spring. 4. While pushing in on the assembly to compress the friction spring, slide the handle back onto the shaft lining up the flat part of the shaft with the Allen key location on the handle. Push the handle tight against the tight side. Tighten the Allen key to hold the handle in place and the friction spring engaged. The final step is easier done with two sets of hands.

15 DISASSEMBLY and ASSEMBLY DEFIANT Model 1945 GENERAL INFORMATION The cast-iron construction of the Defiant stove uses tongue-and-groove seams to join and seal panels to one another. The stove s top and bottom panels trap the sides, front, and back panels. You will work from the inside first, to remove parts from the firebox, then from the top down on the main stove panels. Required tools are listed in the next paragraph. Work carefully, since cast iron parts are heavy, and the enamel finish is fragile. Work in a well-lighted space such as a workshop or garage. If possible, place the stove on an elevated surface. Stove work is messy; wear a dust mask, goggles, and gloves, and use a drop cloth to contain the mess. Tools Required Rubber mallet Allen wrench Phillips screwdriverhammer and wooden block Slotted screwdriver Cold chisel or old screwdriver Putty knife and tube of stove cement, or caulking gun with Tube of cement Wire brush (power driven or hand-held) 7/16 box wrench Ratchet wrench with 7/16 socket Begin by looking at the exploded view parts diagram on page 2 after the history. Note that in these directions left and right mean as you face the stove. Remove the stove pipe and any accessories attached to the stove: warming shelves, bottom or back heat shields, or outside air adapter. Support the stove so that its cast-iron bottom panel is up on solid, secure wooden blocks or solid raised surface. There are four brackets on the stove bottom; these locate the stove on its shipping pallet. Be sure your wooden supports are not directly under these brackets, to ensure stability. If the stove is a Classic (plain black) unit, and the replacement side is not painted when you receive it, paint it before you start dismantling the stove, so the paint can dry completely while you work. Two thin coats of paint are better than a single heavy coat; let the first coat dry completely before you apply the second coat. To make it easier to raise or move the stove, perform disassembly steps 1 through 9 before you move the stove or raise it on blocks or an elevated work surface.

16 DISASSEMBLY Ensure the stove is cool. Remove any ashes and dispose of them properly. Remember that the ashes and embers can stay hot long after the fire has gone out. 1. Lift off the griddle (#15). Open the ashpan door (#53) and remove the ashpan (#85). It will be a handy place to store small parts. 2. Remove the front doors. Unlatch the right door, swing it open, then lift it till its bottom hinge pin clears its hole in the lower part of the stove front. Swing the bottom edge of the door away from the stove, and lower the door till its upper hinge pin clears its hole; then pull the door away, Set it down carefully on a padded surface out of the way. Repeat the removal procedure for the left door. 3. Lift out the grate (#38) and use a wrench to remove the hex-head bolts and washers holding the two andirons in place. Lift out the andirons (48) and the andiron shelf (#49). 4. Loosen the Allen bolts holding the thermostat and damper handles in place, and remove the handles (Fig. 8). Fig.8 Remove Primary Air Handle Fig. 9 Remove Baffle 5. Remove the throat Baffle (Fig. 9) by pulling its bottom edge forward till it clears the ribs on the lower fireback; then slide it to either side. It will the fall into the firebox. Tap out the wedges (#44 & 45) holding the lower fireback and bricks (#46) in place. Remove the firebrick retainer (#47) and remove the bricks. Let the fireback (#27), fall forward and lift it out. You may need to lift it slightly to remove it. 6. Remove the left and right air plates (#33 & 34). Each has a hex bolt at top and bottom holding it in place. With the bolts removed, gently pry the plates out of place. Pry the forward edge first, being careful to avoid any pressure on nearby outer shell parts, especially if they are enameled. There is fiberglass rope gasket on the outer sides of these panels; leave it in place.

17 7. Remove the upper fireback assembly (#19). It is held in place with four bolts going inward from the upper corners of the outer stove back. Remove the upper fireback assembly by swinging its right end forward. Watch the left end to be sure the damper rod clears its hole in the left side of the stove. Capture the spacer from between the left side of the upper fireback, and the left side of the stove and keep the washer on the rod. 8. Remove the Flue Collar (#87). The Flue Collar is held in place by two Phillips head screws and two square nuts. Hold the nuts from falling inside the rear of the stove. 9. Remove the left and right stainless steel heat deflectors (#7 and #8) from the back of the stove. Gently slide the refractory insulating chamber (#9) forward, and remove it. Leave the catalyst access panel (#11) and the catalytic element (#10) in place in the chamber. Do not lift the chamber till it has cleared the secondary probe thermometer which enters its rear face (or remove the probe from the back). The chamber can take very high temperatures but it is physically fragile; handle it carefully. 10. Disconnect the thermostat cable (#66) from the thermostat rod, and remove the thermostat assembly (#37) by pulling it into the firebox. Be sure to keep the small coil friction spring that is on the main stem. 11. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the countersunk bolt going through the top (#69) at the front under the griddle (See Point A Fig. 5). 12. Use the 7/16 box wrench, and then the ratchet with the 7/16 socket, to remove a hex nut and washer from the two threaded studs passing through clevises in the upper sides holding the top in place (See Point B Fig. 5). 13. Use the rubber mallet, or a hammer with a block of wood to cushion the impact, to gently tap against the underside of the stove top, all around the perimeter, inside the firebox, to break the cement seal between the stove top and the rest of the stove body. When the top moves independently of the stove body, carefully lift it off and set it aside. Be especially careful if the panel is enameled. It is heavy; it may take two people to lift off the top. Since the top traps the stove back in place, either have a helper hold the stove back up while you remove the top or put a strap around the stove body before you remove the top. Then remove the back. 14. Remove one side, then the other. Remove the hex bolts joining the stove sides to the bottom assembly. Use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a wooden block to tap outward, from the inside, along the joints between the stove side and the bottom and back panels. Have your helper steady the stove body while you gently rock the stove side. When the side moves independently of the rest of the stove, pull it away from the stove body and set it aside.

18 15. Swing open the ashdoor and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two countersunk bolts holding the ashlip, #43, in place. Slide the ashlip forward and set it aside. Remove the bolts joining the ends to the front panel. Remove the bolts joining the front panel to the bottom assembly. Use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a wooden block to tap outward, from the inside, along the joint between the stove sides and the front panel, and between the front panel and the bottom assembly. When the front panel moves independent of the rest of the stove, have a helper steady the stove body while you pull the front panel (#65) (with the air manifold, #64 still attached) away from the rest of the stove. Set it down carefully on a soft, padded surface. 16. Remove the air tube cover (#39). It has one bolt at each side going downward into the stove bottom and one at the back. 17. Flip the bottom assembly over and remove the legs. Remove the bolts in the ashdoor hinge supports (#57 & #40) and remove the ash door (#53). 18. Remove the air manifold from the front. It has three hex head bolts. 19. Examine all castings for cracks, chips or distortions. Repair of replace as needed. ASSEMBLY HARDWARE In most locations, standard hardware is adequate. However, we use either stainless steel or Grade 5 hardware to join major body panels in original manufacture. If you lose any of this hardware, be sure to use stainless or Grade 5 hardware as replacements, to ensure good performance from the stove. Stainless steel internal hardware will be move user friendly in the future. Hardware should be snug but not tight. The hardware aligns parts and draws them together, but it is the cement that provides the seal between parts. The cast iron will expand under heat more than the hardware (since the iron is less dense) and if the hardware is too tight it can cause extra stress on the iron parts.

19 GASKETING If you are replacing gaskets as part of standard maintenance, refer to the Maintenance Section of the Owner s Guide. If you are replacing all gaskets as while re-building a firebox, follow the instructions given below. Prepare parts carefully. Channels must be free of old gasketing, cement and paint, and free of dust. Use high quality gasket cement. Work in an area where there is plenty of light and a level work surface. Wear gloves and protective eyewear. If you will install gaskets on clean, new parts, start with step 3. If you are going to re-gasket old parts, they will need to be cleaned. Start with step Remove old gaskets. If the ends of the gasket meet, note where the joint is. 2. Clean the channels. Use a hammer and cold chisel or screwdriver to remove old cement. Vacuum the channel to remove dust. 3. Choose the correct size gasket. Cut it to the right length, allowing an inch extra for trimming. 4. Wipe the channel to be gasketed with a damp cloth. Place an unbroken 1/8 bead of cement in the channel. Avoid using too much cement. The cement should not saturate the gasket, just hold it in place. 5. Starting with one end, lightly press the gasket into the cemented channel. Trim excess gasket with shears or side cutting pliers. Do not leave any ragged ends. If the ends of the gasket meet, there should be no gaps or overlaps. Do not stretch the gasket as this will make it too thin. A thin gasket may not make a good seal. 6. If possible, place the gasketed part against the surface it will meet. This will seat the gasket evenly. 7. Clean any excess cement that has squeezed out around the gasket. 8. After installing new gaskets, it may be necessary to make adjustments on the damper or load door. Refer to your Owner s Guide.

20 Parts which need to be gasketed include: Part Gasket Size Gasket Part No. Left front door (Fig. G-1 & G2) 5/16 x Right front door (Fig. G-3) 5/16 x Front door (G-1 & G-3) 3/16 x Griddle (Fig. G-4) 5/16 x Flue collar (Fig. G-5) 7/16 x Upper fireback (Fig. G-6) [damper] 5/16 x Upper Fireback (Fig. G-6) 5/16 x Ashdoor (Fig. G-7) 5/16 x Left wear plate (Fig. G-8) 3/8 x Right wear plate (Fig. G-9) 3/8 x Primary air valve (Fig. G-10) Preformed Gasket Lower fireback (Fig. G-11) 5/16 x Fig. G-1 Left Door Inside View 5/16 x 48 Fiberglass door to front 3/16 x 42 Fiberglass glass to door Fig. G-2 Left Door Outside View Gasket which wraps around from the back. Fig. G-3 Right Door Inside View 5/16 x 36 Fiberglass door to front 3/16 x 42 Fiberglass glass to door Fig. G-4 Top 5/16 x 52 Fiberglass Griddle to top

21 Fig. G-5 Flue Collar 7/16 x 52 Fiberglass Flue collar to top & back Fig. G-6 Upper Fireback 5/16 x 42 Fiberglass damper to UFB 5/16 x 52 Fiberglass UFB to top Fig. G-7 Ash Door 5/16 x 48 Fiberglass Ash door to bottom Fig. G-8 Left Air Plate ⅜ x 60 Fiberglass Air plate to left end Fig. G-9 Right Air Plate ⅜ x 60 Fiberglass Air plate to right end Fig. G-10 Bottom Underside Preformed Gasket - Primary air valve to bottom Fig. G-11 Lower Fireback Rear View 5/16 x 55 Fiberglass lower fireback to upper fireback and rear

22 CEMENTING A good cement seal in the stove s stationary joints is essential to proper operation. It keeps extra air from entering the stove; this extra air can cause overfiring, smoking, back-puffing, or other problems. It is much better to take extra care in applying the cement than to have to go back later to find any gaps in joint. Prepare parts which will need to be cemented before starting to assemble the stove, but do not apply cement until just before installing the parts. It is highly recommended you can do a dry fit of the re-assembly steps before applying cement to any parts. Any small adjustments re old cement or casting fit can be done at this time. This will ensure a successful re-assembly. Cementing instructions are given below. Illustrations showing where to apply cement are given as needed in the assembly instructions. Prepare parts carefully so that new cement makes a tight seal between the parts to be joined. The channels and edges to be cemented must be free of old cement and dust. Use high quality stove cement. New cement hardens quickly when exposed to air. Clean and prepare parts ahead of time. Apply cement just before putting the parts in place. Work in an area where there is plenty of light, and a level work surface. Wear gloves and protective eyewear. If all the parts to be cemented are new, start with step 2. If old parts are to be re-cemented, they will need to be cleaned. Start with step Clean old cement from the channels and edges to be joined. Use a hammer and cold chisel, or screwdriver to remove old cement. Use a wire brush to finish cleaning the channels and edges. Vacuum the channels to remove dust. 2. Wipe the surfaces to be cemented with a damp cloth. Apply a generous bead of cement in the channel. Excess cement may squeeze out of the joint. 3. Excess cement which shows on the outside of the unit may be removed with a damp sponge. Clean up the excess promptly. Porcelain can be permanently damaged by heat cured furnace cement. Excess cement on the inside of the unit will not usually be a problem. 4. Join the two parts. Move the parts as little as possible after they have been put together.

23 ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE You will need at least 6 tubes of stove cement to re-assemble a Defiant Cut the tips of the tubes so you can apply an unbroken bead of cement to the cement channels and mating surfaces. 1. Place the stove bottom upside-down. Thread a leg leveler into each leg, and install the legs. Put the handle holder on the right front leg. Fig. 10 Ash Door Latch 2. Attach the ashlip to the bottom with two countersunk bolts (Fig. 11). Fig. 11 Attach Ash Lip to Bottom 3. Attach both ashdoor brackets to the bottom of the stove (Fig. 12). Install the ash door at this time. Screw the socket, button head bolt into the stepped side of the latch pawl (Fig. 10). Thread the hex nut onto the end of the bolt and tighten it finger tight against the flat side of the pawl. Slide the ashdoor handle shaft through its hole in the ashdoor. Slide the pawl onto the shaft so that the pawl offset is opposite the handle curve. Ensure that the pawl is against the door and that the handle turns without binding. Tighten the set screw in the pawl. Thread the jam nut onto the handle shaft and tighten it against the pawl. With the bottom still upside down, position the ashdoor between the bottom hinge bracket and the top hinge bracket of the stove; slide the ashdoor hinge pin through the bottom hinge, through the ashdoor bosses, and through the top hinge bracket exposing cotter pin hole between the two ash door hinge bosses. Secure the hinge pin with a clevis pin just above the bottom hinge (Fig. 13).

24 Fig.12 Attach Ash Door Hinge Brackets Fig.13 Ash Door Installed 4. Assemble the primary air valve assembly. Put the air frame facedown with the drilled bosses up. Thread the primary air rod through the hole in the bottom of the air valve and just start it into the left top (hinge) hole of the frame. Put the valve and rod in the frame so that the air rod holes align. Push the air rod from left to right through the aligned holes and secure the rod in the frame with a 1/8 friction clip (Fig. 14). Turn the assembly over and install the socket head cap (adjusting) screw, ¼-20 x Fig. 14 Primary Air Valve 3/18, in the centre of the air valve, finger tight. Fig. 15 Primary Air Valve Attachment Fig. 16 Primary Air Cable & Rod

25 5. Thread the running end of the thermostat cable down through the small hole and up through the large hole in the air rod (Fig. 16). Pull the running end of the cable over to the valve and thread it through the small hole in the centre of the valve. Pull 6 of cable outside the valve. Tighten the set screw finger tight (Fig. 14). Pass the thermostat cable and air rod through the primary air opening in the stove bottom. 6. Install the primary air valve assembly on the stove bottom with the hinged side down (Fig. 15). Secure the assembly with two Phillips round head bolts, ¼-20 x 5/8 and the formed gasket. Fig. 17 Cement Bottom Channels 7. Turn the stove bottom over onto its legs. 8. Cement all the channels, flanges and mating surfaces in the bottom casting. Keep the cement off the thermostat cable (Fig. 17). 9. Put the stove front in its cemented channel on the stove bottom and secure with one ¼-20 x 1 hex bolt and ¼ washer (Fig. 18). Fig. 18 Install Front Fig. 15 Stove Bottom Fig. 19 Install Air Manifold

26 10. Cement all mating surfaces on the stove front. Put the air manifold in position on the inside of the stove front and secure with one hex bolt, ¼-20 x 5/8 long and ¼ washer (Fig. 19). 11. Cement the channels and mating surfaces on the left stove end (Fig. 20). Slide the left stove end into its mating channels in the stove front (you may need to tap with a rubber mallet) and swing the back of the end onto the stove bottom so that the hole in the inside bottom flange of the end aligns with the tapped hole in the stove bottom. Secure the end to the bottom and front with ¼-20 x ¾ hex bolts and ¼ washers. Fig. 20 Left End Cement Fig. 21 Left End in Place 12. Install the primary air cover plate in its cemented grooves in the bottom of the stove. It is held in place by Phillips flat head screws, two ¼-20 x 2 on each side and one ¼-20 x 1¼ in the rear (Fig. 22). 13. Apply cement to the grooves in the back. Put the stove back into position inserting into the left end channel and into the bottom grooves of the stove. Secure the back to the left end with ¼-20 x ¾ hex bolt and a ¼ washer (Fig. 23). Fig. 22 Primary Air Cover Plate Fig. 23 Install Rear Fig. 24 Install Right End

27 14. Cement the mating surfaces on the right end. Put the right end into its mating channel on the stove front (Fig. 24). It may need tapping with a rubber mallet. Swing the back end on to the stove bottom so that the hole in the inside of the end aligns with the flange on the stove bottom and mates with the stove rear. Secure the end to the bottom and the rear with ¼-20 x ¾ hex bolts and a ¼ washers. 15. Install the secondary probe assembly (Fig. 25). Insert the double-bent end of the thermostat air link through the hole in the tab end of the thermostat coil. Insert the single-bent end through the hole in the tab on the secondary air flap. Insert the probe through the hole in the stove back and secure it with a Phillips pan-head bolt, #10 24 x ¼. Secure the secondary air flap to the stove back with a similar bolt and a shim ring. Tighten the bolt holding the air flap until it is snug. Insure that the flap moves freely up and down and that the flap rests at or near the open position. If there is resistance to free movement of the flap, back off the bolt a ¼ turn and recheck. Install the secondary air cover with the two Phillips pan head ⅜ screws. Fig. 25 Install Secondary Air Assembly Fig. 26 Install Refractory Assembly 16. Slide the refractory assembly, with the catalytic element and access panel in place, into position between the left and right cast guides and on the left and right cast supports in the bottom (Fig. 26). Secondary air enters the stove under the refractory chamber and travels up between the lower fireback and the refractory assembly. Take care that its opening for the catalytic combustor faces forward, and that the opening is at the top of the front face of the chamber. Notice that there is a hole in the back of the chamber, where the secondary probe enters the chamber; slide the chamber horizontally so that its hole engages the probe. If you are installing a new chamber as part of this repair, first slide the chamber rearward till it just touches the probe, then remove the chamber, and hand-turn a ¼ or ⅜ drill bit through the back of the chamber where the probe made an impression. Do not try to punch out this hole, as the refractory material is brittle and punching can produce a large, ragged hole.

28 17. Install the left and right deflectors to the left and right of the refractory chamber.. The narrow end of the bottom goes to the back (Fig. 26). These protect the stove s outer back panel from the very high temperature gases leaving the refractory chamber; they must be in place. 18. Install the upper fireback assembly (Fig. 27). Be sure the small washer rests against the shoulder on the left of the damper rod. Start by passing the damper rod through its hole in the left side of the stove; then swing the upper fireback to align its bolt holes with the bolt holes in the stove back. Install the four bolts with washers until they are hand-tight (Fig. 28), then slide the damper rod spacer on to the rod from outside the left side of the stove. Tighten the upper fireback bolts no more than ½ turn with a wrench. This leaves the upper fireback loose so the lower fireback will be easier to install. Fig. 27 Install Upper Fireback Assembly Fig. 28 Install Upper Fireback Bolts 19. Put 1½ threaded stems into the two holes at the rear corners of the underside of the stove top. Apply cement to the perimeter groove on the underside of the stove top (Fig. 29). Carefully lift the top, flip it right-side up, and place it on the stove body. When setting it down, align the threaded stud on each end with mating clevises at B in Fig. 5. Put washers and hex nuts on the studs; tighten hand-tight. Use a rubber mallet to tap the stove top into its final position. Install a countersunk bolt at A in Fig. 5 and tighten all three pieces of hardware. Fig. 30 Install Top Fig. 29 Apply Cement to Top

29 The heaviest parts are now assembled. You may wish to move the stove to its installation spot at this point, to keep it lighter for moving. 20. Install the thermostat assembly in the right end before going further. Put washer, then the friction spring on the outer end of the thermostat assembly shaft, and pass the main shaft through the hole in the stove s right side (Fig. 31). Press the assembly outward enough to cause resistance from the spring and put the thermostat handle base on the stem. Secure it with its Allen set screw. Test the thermostat s action to ensure that it is loose enough to rotate, yet snug enough to stay in any set position when you release the handle. If the handle is loose, release the Allen screw from the handle base and push the assembly further through the stove side. Continue this process till the thermostat assembly remains in position when you release it. Fig. 31 Install Thermostat 21. When the thermostat is working well, install the left and right inner air plates. They each secure with two ¼-20 x ¾ hex bolts and washers (Fig. 32). These plates have rope gasketing on their outer sides. Fig. 32 Install Left Air Plate Fig. 33 Install Upper Fireback

30 22. Install the lower fireback (Fig. 33). Lean it back against the secondary combustion parts inside the retainers that position the bottom of the lower fireback. Slight notches in the bottom edge of the fireback fit behind these cast retainers. Tap the top of the lower fireback with a mallet to ensure the gasket makes good contact with the upper fireback. Stand the five firebricks up in front of the lower fireback and join the firebricks with the retainer clip. Notice the shallow rib on the rear of the air plate (bottom) that locates the forward edge of the bottom of the firebricks. The bricks fit behind this rib. Fig. 34 Install Wedges 23. Use the left and right wedges to hold the lower fireback/firebricks in place ((Fig. 34). There is a vertical rib on each left and right edge of the fireback; the wedges must bear against the fireback between these ribs and the outermost edges of the fireback while holding the bricks in place. Tap the wedges downward gently with a hammer. The wedges should be snug, but not tight. 24. Tighten the four bolts holding the upper fireback in place on the back of the stove at this time (Fig. 28). 25. Set the grate into place on the stove floor. Notice that the narrow side of the slots faces upward, toward the firebox - this ensures that ashes can fall readily into the ashpan. Be sure the grate fits flush into its recess in the stove bottom matching up with the cast bosses on the rear sides of the grate cut out.

31 26. Install the andirons and the andiron shelf by bolting each andiron into position with a washer and a ¼-20 x ½ long hex-head bolt. Fig. 35 Install Baffle Fig. 36 Install Damper Stub 27. Install the throat baffle by placing its side support pins on the brackets which are part of the lower fireback (Fig. 35). 28. Attach the damper handle stub to the left end of the damper rod by securing it with an Allen set screw. Make sure the Allen set screw contacts the flat spot on the damper rod D end. Test the damper action for smooth operation (Fig. 36). 29. Install the left and right griddle quads on the griddle with ¼-20 x ½ long hex-head bolts. Install the griddle. Install the griddle handle. 30. Install the left front door by sliding its upper hinge pin into its hole in the stove front; raise the door as high as it will go, swing its bottom edge toward the stove body, and align the lower hinge pin with its hole in the stove front. Lower the door as far as it will go. Make sure the door swings open and closed freely, and aligns its gasket with the mating rib on the stove front. Repeat the procedure with the right door, and make sure the latch engages the stove front securely. 31. Re-install the stove. Let the cement dry for hours before firing up the stove. The more water there was in your stove cement, the longer you must let it air-dry before firing the stove. Firing the stove before the cement has completely air-dried can drive the moisture out of the cement so fast that it does not bond properly, and can result in leaks in the seams. 32. Cure the stove with a series of small fires according to the directions in the owner s manual. Do not rush this process; the new iron must gradually acclimate to the stresses of heat and expansion. Rapid and extreme temperature changes can stress the iron unduly, and can lead to cracking, warping, or problems with the porcelain enamel finish.

32 It is normal for there to be a slight noticeable smell during the first few fires, as the cement and paint cure. If possible, you may choose to run these curing fires outdoors, with a few lengths of stove pipe on the stove, to alleviate this.

33 APPENDIX #1 YEARLY MAINTENANCE SUGGESTIONS The 1945 Defiant is a sophisticated combustion machine, and regular fine tuning will give you the full benefits of its operating potential. GENERAL CHECKLIST Inspect the chimney for blockage such as squirrels, nests, branches, etc. Have a chimney sweep inspect and clean the chimney if necessary. Inspect the connector pipe for wear and replace if necessary. Make sure each length of connector pipe, if single wall, is joined by three screws. Inspect the stove gaskets for wear using the Dollar Bill Test and replace as necessary. Remove any surface rust and repaint any heat shields or chimney connectors. INSPECT THE CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR Fly ash can accumulate on top of the combustor. If sufficient quantity accumulates, it can block the flow of gases through it and cause restriction and back-puffing. Remove the throat baffle from the stove lifting it up[ off the tabs. Remove the left and right wedges that hold the lower fireback in place, and remove the lower fireback by pulling forward from the top first. Gently pry off the refractory catalyst cover with a flat blade screwdriver. Remember the proper alignment for reinstalling the cover. Visually inspect the catalyst for fly ash using a small mirror. It is not necessary to remove the catalyst for this purpose.