Replacing the Starter Ring Gear on the Motorcycle Dyno

Transcription

1 Replacing the Starter Ring Gear on the Motorcycle Dyno Dynojet Research, Inc. 200 Arden Dr. Belgrade, MT Last Updated 10/12/1999 P/N

2 Starter Ring Gear Replacement This manual explains the replacement procedure for the starter ring gear on a motorcycle dynamometer. Removing the Old Ring Gear Step 1 If your dyno is equipped with a brake, it will be necessary to remove it before proceeding. If your dyno is not equipped with a brake, please proceed to step 2. Remove the caliper assembly by removing the (4) 3/8 bolts that hold it to the frame. Remove the Banjo Bolt You will also need to remove the brake line from the caliper. You may now remove the rotor from the dyno shaft. Remove the bolts from the taper lock on the inner portion of the rotor. Use those bolts to extract the taper lock by threading them into the offset holes in the taper lock. The taper lock may need to pried out, but it should be free at this point. Remove the rotor and set it aside. P/N

3 Step 2 Remove the (12), (8) if you had to perform step 1, 3/8 hex bolts on the rear section of the frame. Remove the C channel section of the frame. Step 3 Measure and take note of the drum orientation inside the frame. This is crucial, as the dyno drum needs to be replaced in the exact same location as it was before replacing the starter ring. Take measurements from the face of the drum to the edge of the frame on both sides. Take this Measurement on both sides of the drum. Lock collar is on the inside of the pick up disk. Step 4 Remove the bearing lock collars on both side of the drum. Loosen the set screw and refer to the sticker on which way the collar loosens. The right side lock collar is part of the pick up disk. Lock Collar Instructions Lock collar P/N

4 Step 5 Use a forklift and nylon straps capable of supporting 1000 lbs and lift the drum and frame a few inches. Set a piece of 1/4 plywood between the frame rails under the drum. It should be long enough so when you remove the drum it remains on the plywood. Lower the drum and frame down so only the drum sits on the plywood. Step 6 Remove the (8) 5/8 nuts and lock washers from the bearings on each side of the dyno. Remove the bearings and set them aside. The High Inertia Dyno has an additional sections of the frame that must be removed before proceeding. The frame section is under each bearing, remove them and set aside. Additional frame sections for High Inertia Dynos only. Step 7 Roll the drum assembly backwards, and be sure that it stays on the plywood. Heat the starter ring with a propane torch to allow the ring to grow, try not to burn the paint on the drum. Using a hammer and punch, hit the starter ring on the inside face and work your way around the perimeter. Ring Gear Installing the New Ring Gear Step 1 Clean and debur the perimeter of the drum where the new ring gear will be installed. P/N

5 Step 2 Heat the new starter ring until it grows enough to fit over the drum. Be sure the ring is seated at an equal distance around the perimeter of the drum, and hold it in place until it cools. Step 3 You may want to prime / paint the new ring gear and the area on the drum surface where you were working. Step 4 Roll the drum assembly back into the frame, and be sure the bearing bolts are still in place through the holes on the inside of the frame. High Inertia Only: Be sure to replace the additional frame members before replacing the bearings. Install the (12) 3/8 hex bolts towards the front of the dyno and torque to 42 lbs-ft. Additional frame sections for High Inertia Dynos only. Install the bearings back on the shaft on both sides of the dyno. Replace the 5/8 lock washers and nuts, BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM YET. You should be able to slide the drum / shaft assembly back and forth as long as the bearing lock collars are loose. This will aid in getting the drum assembly back to its original location. Manually rotate the drum and be sure that it isn t hitting anything. At this point, you should also test the starter and be sure that it is lined up properly and doesn t bind. Be sure that the starter ring gear is lined up with the bendix on the starter. P/N

6 Lift the drum assembly as you did in Step 5 of Section 1, and remove the plywood. Set the drum / frame down, and then tighten the bearing bolt nuts on both sides to 150 lbs-ft. Step 5 Replace the bearing lock collars on both sides of the dyno. Be sure the drum is located EXACTLY in the same location as when you removed it (reference the measurements you recorded earlier). Set the lock collars (refer to sticker above bearing), and then tighten down the set screws to 28 lbs-ft. Step 6 Bolt the rear frame section back into place. There should be (12) 3/8 hex bolts with lock washers, torque them to 42lbs-ft. If you are reinstalling a brake, don t install bolts in the top and bottom (2) holes on the left side. If you have a brake continue through the next 5 steps, otherwise skip to Step 10. Step 7 Mount the rotor / taper lock assembly to the shaft on the back left side of the dyno. Be sure to install the key to ensure proper alignment. Step 8 Attach a dial indicator to the side of the dyno as shown, and check for run out. The tolerances are +/ Tighten the taper lock bolts to adjust the run out, and then torque to 15 ft/# s. Tighten the set screw at this point to keep the key in place. P/N

7 Dial indicator Step 9 Attach the caliper assembly with (4) 3/8 hex bolts and torque them to 42lbs-ft.. Step 10 Adjust the brake as necessary to allow the rotor to spin free of contact. Loosen the jam nut, and use the adjustment nut to move the brake pads in or out. Step 11 Attach the brake line back to the caliper. You will most likely need to add fluid (DOT 5) and bleed the system of air. Step 12 Make a final inspection and be sure that all fasteners are tight and that the drum rotates freely. P/N