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Maude Powers
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1 Tools Required Shovel Wheelbarrel Screwdrivers Hammer Tape measure Drill Power sander Circular saw Jigsaw or Coping saw Level Tablesaw or Bandsaw Recommended Materials Cypress Redwood Western Red Cedar Eastern White Cedar White Pine Yellow Pine Pressure Treated Pine Materials List 3pc1x6Hx6' 5 pc 1x6" x 6* (clear, no knots) 3pc2x4Mx10' 2pc2x4"x8' 1 pc2x6hx8' 7pc2x6"x12' 5pc2x6"x16' 1 pc2x8"x8' 8pc4x4"x12' 16 bags of pre-mixed concrete 3' hardwood dowel 3/8" 200 pes 3" deck screws (Ceramic or Stainless) 3 lb 1 1/4" Spiral galvanized finish nails 1 lb 3" Spiral galvanized finish nails Small container or waterproof glue (West System Epoxy) 1 of 13 not to scale Gardenstructure Cover Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All right

2 Table of Contents 1 of 13 Cover 2 of 13 Woodwork Basics 3 of 13 Step by Step Instructions.11 II 4 of 13 Step by Step Instructions 5 of 13 Cut List 6 of 13 Post Caps 7 of 13 Parts Discriptions& Elevation 8 of 13 Headpiece Parts& Footing Map 9 of 13 Screen Sections 10 of 13 Beam & Rafter Layout 11 of 13 Stain Guide 12 of 13 Rafter and Brace Templates 13 of 13 Large Brace Template 'Limitations and Waiver This design is the property ofwivw.gardenstructiire.com Inc. "GSC" and is not to be copied, reproduced, displayed or sold without the permission of GSC. You are responsible for proper installation and appropriate materials to be used in this woodwork project' GSC is not responsible for site-specific conditions, including soil, climate, slope, safety, hazardous or environmental conditions of the specific site on which work is being performed. GSC is not responsible for compliance of the work to be done with any municipal or government authority. You must check your local municipal codes or bylaws for height, setbacks, specifications or other restrictions. GSC is not responsible for any defects, damages or injury however caused, whether arising from or consequent to the use of the design. By using this design, you accept these bmitations and waive any claim which may arise from its use against GSC. Performing any activities with power tools require the utmost care and safe practice. Engage in these activities at your own risk Best of luck with your project! GardenStructure.com Revision: April 21 / com Plan:P132DIY reserved Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

3 What is "crown" Every piece of lumber has a slight curvature when view When all the pieces are assembled in a structure in the ss it will appear uniform. Furthermore; if they are installed crown up (as in illustratic it will actually look, and in fact be, structurally superior. - Beams, joists and fence rails should be installed Crown - Joists are crucial. If joists are not all crown up the deck v appear uneven. If material seems to have extensive crown, i.e. more than 5/8", don't accept it. Wood is an imperfect material. There are many techniques for hiding slight imperfections but the materials must be within certain standards. Why do fence posts heave? The source of the problem concrete to ground level. Sines the top of the hole is larger than the base a lip for frost to catch is formed. As the concrete is lifted by frost, soil falls into the base which causes the footing to remain, a little higher every year. Concrete retains moisture. If using cedar or untreated lumber, consider sealing or treating the portion of the post that comes in contact with the ground or concrete with preservative. * Always call for utility locates prior to digging. Where do you put the nails? To put it simply, "If you install the nails too near the edge or end of the board, it will split, weakening the connection. More nails than necessary will not mean the connection will be stronger, You can only install so many nails before the wood splinters. Larger nails aren't necessarily better either; We recommend 2" spiral, galvanized nails to install fence boards, two at the top and two in the lower rail. Illustration C not to scale 2 of 13 Gardenstructun Woodwork Basics Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All righ

4 from the end. e direction Measuring and Cutting with Accuracy P P? If you are rusty on fractions you had best brush up on them. For fencing purposes you'll need accuracy. We'll use a faster method for getting down to within 1/16". A hand drawn + to indicate +1/16, and a - to indicate -1/16" Make your mark up to the line that indicates the measurement you want, but not beyond, (as in the drawing left) Add a line to indicate which side to cut on. Illustration E Extend the line across the board with a square. Cut the piece of wood with your saw leaving the line to guide you. If you take away the line the board will be too short The saw *kerf on most power saw blades of an inch so if you were previously taking the line away when you cut you were at least 1/8" away from accurate. Once you get used to this technique the quality of your work will improve drastically. *kerf - is the width of the cut or the amount of lumber that turns to sawdust expressed as a width on the upper face of the lumber. What kind of nails should be used? - Hot Dipped Galvanized Spiral Nails, or Electro Galvanized Spiral Nails are a good choice for either pressure treated or cedar. You must be cautious when using cedar or redwood. Close attention should be paid to the integrity of the finish on the fasteners. Try dropping 5 or ten fasteners into a container of water for an hour or two and look for corrosion..com Revision: April 21 /2008 Plan:P132DIY reserved Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

5 1) Call for utility locates 6) Cut poststoheight 2) Layout the post locations On page 8 you will find Illustration J, your footing map. To place your structure mark it in spray paint and imagine the structure in place by holding up the drawing. Place the arbor carefully. You won't be able to move it easily unless you install it with temporary stakes. The height of the lower pergola headpiece is up to you. Normally doors are 80-84" in height so the lower level sho With a level marking from one post to the next level your l With a square mark the third side of each post. On the ce marks higher by 12*. With a circular saw set to a depth of 2" you can cut 2 opposite sides of the post, f using this type of equipment we would recommend using * Local bylaws vary, consult your local building department. 3) Dig or have holes dug. Most rental shops can supply a one man auger to assist in digging your holes. You can also hire a local specialist to dig your holes for you. Mark them out in spray paint first to save time and grief later. A Proper Footing 4) Set the posts. Screenings or Soil Concrete Using a post, tamp the loose earth at the base of the holes. Check to see that the holes are in line. Start by setting the end of run posts first. Begin by mixing your concrete to a stiff consistency, and drop two shovels in the first hole. This will provide a base forthe footing. Place the post in the center of the hole and using a level, keep the post in a vertical position. The other person will fill the hole halfway with concrete and top up the hole with screenings or excavated soil. Using your foot, tamp the soil to sturdy the post. Check to see that the post remains level without holding it and adjust by tamping or compacting the soil with your footuntil the post is firmand level. Braces are not required once you master this technique. Once all the end of run and comer posts are set you can install small blocks of plywood or fenceboards with a nail protruding to give an in line reference. Draw the line snug and by levelling the post %* away from the line your posts will be inline. Carefully add your concrete and soil, level and compact the rest of the posts. When you are finished you should double check all your posts forlevel. Your fence posts should be left for 2 days until the concrete has set. Illustration F 3 Of 13 not to scale Gardenstructure Step by Step 1 Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All righl

6 6) Construct Screens Id be higher than that, e around all eight posts. ter4 posts, move the level A large table or any flat surface, (floor), will suffice to construct the screens. Begin by milling the materials described in the illustrations and cut list, (Page 6). Sand smooth and keep them organized. Initially you will be using the 11/4" galvanized finish nails. Start by laying out the 7/8 x 11/2'x 64" split rails in roughly the distance in the screen drawing, (Illustration I, Page 8 shows names of all parts). Fasten the 11/2 x 3/4' blocks to one end. This will be the lower part of the screen. The upper and lower splines as in the drawing will then be fastened flush to the top of the split rail, and resting above the blocks at the lower limit of the rail. Next the 3/4" x 3/4" lattice can be mounted in position to the split rails. The second layer of the 7/8 x 11/2'x 64" split rails can be laid upon the splines and horizontal lattice and nailed using 21/2" galvanized finish nails. Nail through the splines and the lattice strips. The next step is to add the vertical lattice in position indicated by the drawing. You should fasten these with 11/4" finish nails. You can then add your 3/4 x 3/4" x 11/2" spacer blocks to enable trim to be mounted. Fasten these to the splines using 11/4" finish nails. You can then fasten the trim using 11/4" finish nails, and the screens are complete! Note: If you are having problems visualizing the screens please see section drawings on page 9 illustration L and M. Upper Rail Trim Blocks Upper Spline Split Rai Split Rail Trim Blocks " blocks^ 11/2 x 3/4" blocks N Lower Spline H - Lower1 Revision: April 21 /2008. com Plan:P132DIY reserved Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

7 7) Cutting the Rails and mounting your Screen. The 2x4 rails can now be cut to length. The upper rail can be laid upon the tops of the posts and marked from the underside. Make sure your posts have been cut to length (level to one another). Cut to the exact angle using a miter saw or hand saw. The lower rails are somewhat more complicated to mark. The rail should be laid aside the posts in order to mark the angle of cuts and length. Confirm the length after marking the angles by measuring. wrpwfion for y The lower rail should slide into place without force. Be sure to label the rails for position... upper, lower and direction so as not to misorient your rails when they get fastened. Mark a line 11/2" in from the end of the rail and mount the screens. Pre-drill holes in the rails and fasten by nailing into the split rails and the upper spline. 8) Installing Screens. Pilot holes as shown and fa Assembled screens should slide into place and bear upon the support rail. Leave space between the screen and the ground to prevent frost damage. Fasten directly into the support rail with large finish nails, then secure the top rail using technique outlined in Illustration F1. Fill the hole with a plug O waterproof adhesive and 9) Assemble Headpieces and Install Assemble and install the headpieces by first notching the beams as shown in Illustration K. By leveling across from the top of the post caps the 2x6 support block can be located and mounted by countersinking and toenailing 3" deck screws. (A pocket-hole Jig will make short work of these connections) Place the headpieces in place-center and trace the outline of the beams onto the post caps. By drawing diagonal lines locate the center of the connection-pilot and install a 11/2' dowel. Use Marine adhesive to secure. Locate and pilot the dowel connection hole in the underside of the headpiece. Fasten the beams in place by piloting a single hole in each end of the brace and fasten with 3" deck screws to the underside of the beam and the post. This will make the structure more sturdy. Assemble the rafters in similar fashion, add the spacer strips to the top of the beams and mount. Screw through the top of the assembled rafter assemblies into the spacer strip. 4 of 13 not to scale Gardenstructure Step by Step 2 Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All rights

8 Illustration F 8) Constructing the Headpiece and Post Caps The headpieces are best built on a table or flat surface. Begin by cutting the lumber to length and then adding the decorative cuts. Notches should then be added as shown in Drawing. Assemble as shown, cut and install your braces and dowels, build the post caps on the table as well. The template,(page 7) is full size so you can set yourtablesaw to those angles in the drawing. When cutting and installing the lower cap trim be sure the post will fit inside it. It is best to leave an additional 1/4" play....you are ready to apply your stain. en rails with a screw in each side, dwood dowel, glued in place with ded flush. Designer's Notes: This structure can be adjusted + or - about 3'. When adjusting the take-off you simply add to the length of the affected parts. It may be necessary for larger braces to be used when increasing size. Guage the rigidity of the structure once braces are installed. By deleting 4 posts you could create a trelliswork screen without depth-maintaining the same facade to add depth to the area. Add more verticals or horizontals to change the look and give the structure your own stylish touch. West System Epoxy is a premium exterior adhesive available at Lee Valley Tools. Ponder pre-staining all the parts for added durability. By piloting with a 3/8" bit and countersinking 1/2". plugs can be cut and glued in with West System Epoxy, then sanded flush to give a clean, professional, fastener freelook. Purchasing a 'Tapered Plug Cutter" will allow you to make your own plugs fromextra materials in your own shop using a drill press. Revision: April 21 /2008 eserved Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

9 PARTNAME CUT FROM #OF Pes DIMENSIONS Posts 4x4x12' 8 3 1/2"x3 1/2" x12' 2x4 rails 2x4x10' (3) 4 11/2" x 31/2" x 40" (trim to fit) Split rails 2x6x12' (3) /2" x 7/8" x 64" (small knots) Upper splines 1x6x6' (2) 4 2 3/4 x 3/4" x 32 7/8" Lower splines ii 4 1 3/4 x 3/4" x 32 7/8" Vertical lattice 1x6x6'clear (2) 8 3/4 x 3/4" x 62 1/2" Horizontal lattice 1x6x6'clear (3) 12 3/4 x 3/4" x 32 7/8" Trim offcuts 8 1/2x1 3/4x36" (trim to fit) Rafters 2x6x12' (4) 6 13/4x1 1/2"x4'-5 3/8" 2x6x12' (4) 10 13/4x1 1/2"x4'-3 5/8" 3 13/4x1 1/2"x5'-7 3/8" Beams 2x6x16' (5) 4 5'-8 3/4" (decorative cut both ends) 2 4 7'-0 3/8" (decorative cut both ends) 4'-5 1/8" (decorative cut one end only) Spacer strip 2x8x8' (1) 8 1 x 1 1/4" x4' (trim to fit and bevel back) Braces offcuts 8 (Cut to template size-template B) Large Braces offcuts 4 (Cut to template size-template D) Split Rail Blocks offcuts 8 11/2x1 1/2" x 3/4" Trim Blocks offcuts 16 3/4x3/4"x1 1/2" Post Caps Top Piece 1x6x6' 8 3 1/2 x 3 1/2" x 3/4" Cap 2x8x8' (1) 8 7x7"x1 1/2" Lower Trim offcuts 2 11/2 x 1" x 8' (can be made up of smaller length Support Rails 2x4x8' (2) 4 2x4x40" trim to fit Support Blocks 2x6x8' (1) 2 2x6x36" trim to fit * All parts should be sanded smooth with 80 grit sand paper on a random orbital sander, and razer edge remove to facilitate stain application. Sanding all four sides will eliminate the need for deglazing later. Consider pre staining all the parts prior to assembly. * Note, additional material has been specified in the material list (about 5%). Contractors typically order 15-20% for efficiency. 5 of 13 Gardenstructuri not to scale Cut List Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All rig!

10 ADDITIONAL MILLING INSTRUCTIONS Top corners can be chamfered off and drip edge cut below as illustration n u Chamfer top edge as in illustration Decorative Cuts from template Page 12 Decorative Cuts from template Page 12 Template Page 12 Template Page 13 \ See page 6 for post cap parts templates. /.com Revision: April 21 / 2008 Plan:P132DIY reserved Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

11 block 6 of 13 Scale: 1:1 Gardenstructur Post Caps Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All rigl

13 7 of 13 3/4H= r-cr Gardenstructun Paris Descrjptk>ns& Elevations Support by ... All righ 5'-8 3/4" 4'-3 5/8" 37 3/4" II II I I,. J -,.,., JAM,.,. -. L - S "Rafters" L, ^ 11/2x1 1/2" (cut from 2x6) "SpacerStrlpl' x 3/4' (cut fron 2x 3'-0 1/2" "2x4 Ralls" 11/2x3 l/i Illustration I 34 1/2" Side Elevation

16 Revision: April 21 / 2008 Plan: P132 DIY 2'-10 3/8" Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com Illustration K 1/2" hardwood dowel ^Efin Illustration J

17 rsection 1 Section 2 Illustration L "1 i II "7" Screen 9 of 13 3/4"= 1'-0" Gardenstructun Gardenstructun Screen Sections Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All righ

18 Section 2 Horizontal and vertical lattice Trim Lower Spline Spacer Block Trim blocks " 2x4 Rail ~ Illustration N.com eserved Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Revision: April 21 /2008 Plan:P132 DIY Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

19 Beams Spacer Strip Rafters Lower Beam & Rafters Spacer Strip Post Beams Support Beam Support Posts for Upper Beams Upper Bear & Rafters Spacer Str H h "rrh t Post Rafters

20 CO C/) n n u u nz: n h LI U TT"p- TTTT n h L Gardenstructure.com w= r-<r Plan: P132 DIY 10 Of 13 Revision: April 21 / 2008 Beam SRafter Layout Support by ... win@garoenstructure.com All rights reserve*; Copyright 2008 GardenStructure.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

21 GardenStructure.com on Staining Exterior Wood Our Solutions to Peeling Stain: Plants absorb and store moisture and nutrients in the root structure and draw it up the stem as required. Trees are just a large plant, which means that lumber is simply that stem sliced up. Think of a redwood tree 15C7 in height drawing moisture and nutrients from the roots and feeding it to the branches. Generally the larger the species, the longer the cells the greater the suction created of moisture in the end grain. Solution 1: Seal the end grains too. As a plant is dehydrated, it shrinks. Trees, being large plants behave in exactly the same way. In fact, if a tree is left whole after cutting, they will tend to develop cracks to the center, larger in the outer grain, smaller in the center gran. If you have ever noticed a fence post, which is cracking all 4 sides, if you examine the end grain, the core of the tree is in the center of the timber. That core of the tree's closest route for the crack is to each flat surface of the post. Solution 2: Choose a good quality lumber that does not contain the core of the tree. Solution 3: Seal all 4 sides as well as the ends to stabilize moisture content. Solution 4: If you cut a timber seal the end again during assembly. During the planing process (smoothing of wood), superheated sap and sawdust is forced into the surface of the wood. This "mill glaze" is nearly as dense as glass. Stain will not penetrate mill glaze so the glaze has to be removed for proper adhesion. You can see the mill glaze if you look at the surface of the wood from an angle under light to see the shiny glazed surface. Solution 5: Before applying stain, sand all surfaces with 80-grit sandpaper to remove glaze and open up the pores of the wood to accept the stain Solution 6: Rollers will lay stain on fast, however not into the pores effectively. You should really go over it with a brush. Plants need moisture to live. At the time of harvesting trees have high moisture content. During the production and finishing the timbers lose some moisture, but only kiln drying will get most of the moisture out of the wood. Your typical lumber is about 18-22% moisture content. Kiln dried typically has about 5-8%. Before drying, that moisture resides in the pores of the wood, where you want the stain to be. We have not identified a target number for moisture content, however most stain companies recommend 15% or less. Red cedar dries quickly, so using the following advice has offered 5-7 year durability for solid stain on vertical structures out of doors on red and white cedar as tested in Ontario Canada over the last 8 years. Solution 7: Stack your lumber with 1 or 2' spacers between layers, boards 1" away from each other. Plug a couple of fans in, and open the garage door a few inches. Dry the lumber for a 2 weeks (Cedar), 3-4 weeks for pressure treated before you sand it to remove the glaze. When you sand a respirator and 3-mil shop vacuum should be used. The dust from red cedar and pressure treated is toxic so take care to clean up well and prevent contact with anyone not using protection. This will dry the outer surface of the lumber and allow for proper penetration. If the pores of the wood are full of moisture the stain cannot get in. This process will not drop the moisture content like kiln drying, however it works very well for outdoor structures. The sealing process stabilizes moisture that remains in the lumber. Paint lasts longer than stain, however it deteriorates and marks on horizontal surfaces. Solid stain lasts longer than semi-transparent in general terms. There are many different companies that make numerous products with benefits and drawbacks to all of them. Generally a good choice of stain will contain plenty of pigment for UV protection, mildewcide, fungicide and be oil based. 11 of 13 Scale: 1:1 Gardenstructun Stain Guide Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All rigr

22 Solution 8: Use a good quality stain with a track record. We have had good results with Para and Benjamin Moore's exterior alkyd stains on vertical exterior projects. In 6 years of use, many of our projects still do not need refinishing. Price of product does not guarantee good performance. We have used products at double the price of these products, with dismal to good results. Coatings tend to fade over time. Vertical surfaces will weather at different rates than horizontals. If you have decided to re-stain only part of your deck, you may findit is now 2 different shades. This is particularly true when it comes to semi-transparent coatings. Solution 9: Consider staining the deck surface in semi, and use a solid color on the verticals, (paint or stain). When it comes time to re-coat the horizontal surfaces, you won't have to do the verticals as well. All stains are made of chemicals and compounds that are mixed. They all require stirring prior to application. Direct sunlight can cause the materials in the stain to separate, which will cause poor results. Often humidity or moisture will cause the stain to contaminate. If it is too warm or too cold stains often will give poor results. Solution 10: Apply your stain on a warm, dry, overcast day for best results. Solution 11: If you have already installed your structure or deck you will need patience. Be sure that it has not rained for at least 2 weeks before you apply. Deglaze and be sure the surface of the deck is not moist to the touch. Sprinklers should be shut off and surrounding plants should not be watered at all. CAUTION 1: Pressure treated lumber contains chemicals which can potentially react with chemicals in the stains. Since the chemical formulation has not yet been tested for compatibility with present stain offerings we recommend purchasing 2 or 3 samples of potential types and finishing a block of the pressure treated materials you plan to use, end test it for a few months prior to use. CAUTION 2: Pool chemicals and pets can cause damage to coatings. Many of the pool chemicals are acidic and will damage the finish. Couple this with deep scratches from a rambunctious or lame dog and you can chemically strip the finish off a deck in a couple of seasons. If your deck is in close proximity to a pool we recommend drying off before walking on the deck and if damage does occur to the surface.. touch it up quickly. A runner may help keep the chemicals off your deck. Composite materials are similar density to wood. Scratches and scorching from pool chemicals can have equally destructive results. Since they cannot be refinished, wood is likely a better option. Q&A How long should a stain job last? If you follow the guide above, 2-3 years on horizontals due to wear from foot traffic and other factors. 4-7 years on verticals. If you just slap the stain on after the structure is built, you may get a year or two before it peels off. In choosing stain color, are there any guidelines? We normally borrow colors from the exterior of the house, Trim colours for rails, (to imitate wainscoting), floorcolors for the deck are often semi transparent to make it an extension of the floor in the house. Vertical sections are normally paired to the exterior trim color. If the trim on the exterior of the house is a dark colour we often will half tint to give the same tone, without making the structure too dark. Can I use a spray gun or rig to apply the stain? Sure, but just be careful you don't spray your neighbor's car, house, children...and run a brush over the whole board end to end twice to help penetration. Thinning the stain for the firstcoat 10-20% will also help penetration. Revision: April 21 / 2008 Plan reserved Copyright 2008 GardenStaicture.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

23 R7 1/2" R4 3/8" Template B 12 of 13 Gardenstructun Scale: 1:1 Rafter& Brace Templates Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All righ

24 Template A s is a tracing template ing a piece of masonite or hardboard fasten template in place with tape ing a scratch awl, poke through to transfer the shape to the hardboard out and sand smooth e template to mark full size parts 1 1/8" 00 CP cq Template C \.com Revision: April 21 /2008 Plan:P132 DIY reserved Copyright 2008 GardenStmcture.com Distributed by: Gardenstructure.com

25 9" This is a tracing template 1- using a piece of masonite or hardboard fasten template in p 2- using a scratch awl, poke through to transferee shape to the 3-cut out and sand smooth 4- use template to mark full size parts Scale: 1:1 Gardenstructur Large Brace Template Support by ... win@gardenstructure.com All rij

Staining Exterior Wood Our Solutions to Peeling Stain: Solution 1:

Staining Exterior Wood Our Solutions to Peeling Stain: Solution 1: Staining Exterior Wood How to apply stain on exterior wood decks is a common question posed by our clients. Here is a comprehensive guide to applying exterior stain to cedar wood decks, timber pergolas