Empennage FIN STABILISER RUDDER ELEVATORS SUPERMARINE

Transcription

1 Empennage FIN STABILISER RUDDER ELEVATORS WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 145

2 FIN E5: FIN ASSEMBLY See packing List F5 Fin FIN SKIN FIN POST GUSSETS LEADING EDGE FASTENINGS FIN POST ANGLE DOUBLERS CURVED SKIN STIFFENERS RIBS GENERAL NOTES This can be the first part of the Empennage done by the builder. However the rudder can be built independently ahead of the fin. RUDDER PIVOT BRACKETS Parts have been pre-assembled in the factory and can be clecoed together. The fin is built to match the rudder. Holding rivets need to be removed to start work on individual components. The Rudder will get mounted on to the brackets bolted on to the vertical fin post. The skin is pre-folded and drilled. Use the skin to matchdrill holes where required. NOTE Study the drawing before build and check all parts are present. Rod ends are used on pivot brackets These can be temporarily fitted whilst positioning brackets if rudder is not complete. Pivot brackets must be physically checked - corner radii and edges smoothed prior to priming. Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 146

3 FIN E5: FIN ASSEMBLY NOTE THE FIN ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN PRE- ASSEMBLED TO MATCH THE RUDDER Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 147

4 FIN E5:FIN ASSEMBLY Procedure 1. Check and prepare all parts. Test fit fin post. CHECK PIVOT BRACKET HOLE ALIGNMENT 2. Test fit the fin post so that it is back to back with the aft bulkhead. The post will fit into the recess formed by the belly and side skins. 3. Cut matching holes for rudder cable exit holes. 4. Position post flush against bulkhead and check vertical and perpendicular. 5.Drill and cleco 3/32 with angle doublers positioned. 6. Drill through bulkhead for dome rivets. 7. Position and drill for pivot brackets. FIN POST ANGLE DOUBLERS THESE HOLES TO BE DRILLED FOR AN3 BOLTS BOTTOM PIVOT NOTE ENSURE PIVOT BRACKET HOLES FOR TOP AND BOTTOM PIVOTS ARE ALIGNED VERTICALLY AND CENTRAL TO FIN POST TOP PIVOT GAP BETWEEN FACES MUST ACCOMMODATE ROD ENDS ON RUDDER Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 148

5 FIN E5: FIN ASSEMBLY Note Fuselage skin overlap is a little longer than it needs to be and will be cut back when rudder is fitted. 8.Once correctly positioned use dome head rivets to fit to aft b/head. 9.Use 2 Bolts on each bracket (on top brackets bolts go closest to pivot point. NOTE NYLOC NUTS ARE ON THE OUTSIDE FOR VISUAL CHECK All parts can be clecoed together with skin. Matchdrill using skin holes. Pivot c/line for rudder 10. Assembly can be clecoed together except for gussets and leading edge. Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 149

6 FIN E5: FIN ASSEMBLY 11. Fit front vertical rib to bulkhead and bolt on fwd spar. Hole lines up with hole in apex of can be clecoed. AN3-4a bolt to bulkhead Assemble complete frame and cleco on all parts The fin has been assembled in the factory so that it should go together easily. As to step 9 this picture shows top pivot bolting arrangement with nuts facing out. 13. Use skin to matchdrill holes Fin top doubler Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 150

7 FIN E5: FIN ASSEMBLY 14.Drilled to 1/8 frame is dimpled 15.Cleco skin to complete frame 16. Using std procedure prepare and rivet on skins Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 151

8 E5: FIN ASSEMBLY THE LEADING EDGE AND GUSSETS NEED PREPARATION AND DRILLING BEFORE FITMENT. THIS IS DONE ONCE SKIN HAS BEEN RIVETED TO FIN. FIN GUSSETS FIN Lines up with back edge of front spar rib LEADING EDGE Round off leading edge to suit turtledeck 17. Align curve of gusset slightly below the fin line and overlap the aft line of the gusset to the back of the vertical spar edge. Adjust folded edge to suit top of fuselage skin. 18.Drill 3/32 to position both gussets (3-119) symmetrically and cleco temporarily. Leading edge needs to be worked to match fin/turtledeck curve before drilling. 19. Trim leading edge to suit vertical line of gusset and cleco in position. 20. Draw a line on and drill 3/32 at standard spacings. 21.Ensuring a clean line of fitment drill all holes to 1/8 then dimple and prepare gussets and leading edge Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 152

9 FIN E5: FIN ASSEMBLY 22.Gussets painted dimpled and ready for fitment. 23.Use nail dimpler for gusset holes - refer picture on right. Once all holes are found and before riveting, trim pieces so there is 8-10mm edge distance under leading edge piece. This makes the skin sit better. Dont forget to rivet b/head before fixng and in place as you wont be able to get the top 4 rivets afterwards. 24. Picture shows completed leading edge riveted to fin. Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 153

10 FIN LEADING EDGE FITTING LEADING EDGE Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 154

11 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY See packing List E6 & E7 - Horizontal Stabiliser GENERAL NOTES The Stabiliser has been pre-assembled in a jig in the factory and drilled 3/32. It will have to be prepared and partly disassembled to fit it to the fuselage. The Fwd and Aft spars are drilled for mounting. The skins are drilled and positioned with temporary rivets in a few places. These will need to be removed once building commences. The leading edge is shaped to suit the leading edge tube. Holes in leading edge tube need to be countersunk and ribs match dimpled to skins. This shows stabiliser being pre-assembled in a Jig for accuracy Drill out temporary holding rivets Trim cable should be fitted and ready to be fed through access holes in stabiliser. See GA drawings. Disconnect leading edge when fitting to Fuselage Under Stb side is trim tab cable exit point F W D S P A R A F T S P A R Procedure 1. Preparation Use some foam blocks to support the Stabiliser on your workbench. With all skins in place cleco every second or third hole with 3/32 clecoes (on both sides). This will keep skins true. 2. Alternate clecos and drill all holes both sides 1/8 except those on top of aft spar. Rib needs slight folding to enable Stab. fitting to fuselage Leave holes 3/32 until hinge gets fitted 3. With skins positioned turn stabiliser upside down and locate elevator to match profile. NOTE STUDY DRAWING & SKETCH TO SEE GENERAL ARRANGEMENT AND TRIM CABLE POSITION Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 155

12 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY Prepare Trim Control Cable Mounting And Exit Hole Position of cable guide in line with tab horn Position of tab horn 4. Cut a hole on underside of stabiliser starboard side- size as shown. 5. Drill out temporary holding rivets carefully and rivets holding leading edge. ONCE DRILLED TO 1/8 WHERE REQUIRED THE SKINS CAN BE REMOVED READY FOR DIMPLING AND COUNTERSINKING Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 156

13 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY 6. Dimple all skins, remove plastic, prepare/prime 7. Dimple all ribs and prepare/prime 8. Remove and countersink leading edge tube - prepare/prime. 9. Re-assemble tube and cleco skins back to ensure good fitment andthat it is true. 10. Dis-assemble skins and leading edge in readiness to mount to fuselage Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 157

14 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY Mounting Horizontal Stabiliser 11. With disassembled frame ready and leading edge removed it can be fitted under the fin and between aft bulkheads (It will be necessary to move one of the forward center ribs in order to clear bulkhead 7). 12.The leading edge tube can now be put through fuselage turtledeck. 13. Fit leading edge tube to ribs again Small clecos are used to fix front of ribs once leading edge is re-fitted Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 158

15 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY Mounting Horizontal Stabiliser 14. With fwd spar positioned against bulkhead in line with fuselage centerline and resting on back skin, drill for two AN3 bolts using holes in spar. NOTE BEFORE DRILLING ENSURE SYMMETRY BY MEASURING TO TOP OF FIN EACH SIDE TOP OF FIN Dist X equal + - 5mm x x STABILISER LEVEL AND ON C/LINE 15.Drill aft spar mounting bracket and mount without washers under (this needs adjustment later). NOTE THE STABILISER MOUNTING POSITION IS NOT FINAL AT THIS TIME IT WILL NEED INTERIM ADJUSTMENT AND POSSIBLY FINAL ADJUSTMENT AFTER FLIGHT TESTS Center of spar rests on back skin Stabiliser shown bolted in Washers can be added under this bracket to allow slight angular adjustment Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 159

16 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY 16.Cleco underside skins to both sides of assembly and rivet NOTE DO NOT RIVET UP TRIM CABLE EXIT HOLE BACKING PLATE AND GUIDE UNTIL CABLE IS FITTED 17. Rivet up bottom port skin using standard procedure(rivet alternate holes first with other clecoed up) 18.Cleco bottom Stb skin on and prepare for trim cable - holes should have rubber grommets and must allow a smooth curve to cable so as to reduce friction as much as possible SEE DRAWING below - larger copy in drawing list (3-007 ) Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 160

17 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY Trim Cable Exit Cover 19. Prepare parts for trim cable fitment See sketch for Assembly The cable must exit hole in line with trim tab horn. Ensure if necessary by temporarily positioning elevator if it is already built. 20. Rivet on backing plate and guide to underside skin This sketch shows a layout of the cable path and its relevant fittings for operation NOTE SEE SKETCH AND DRAWING FOR CABLE PATH AND FITMENT Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 161

18 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY 21.Cut foam rings about 4 dia and glue in centers between ribs. NOTE THIS IS OPTIONAL BUT IS USED TO PREVENT TIN CANNING AND HELP KEEP SKINS SMOOTH AND DENT FREE 22. Once dry cut off on skin height. Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 162

19 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY NOTE DO NOT RIVET SKIN ON TOP TRAILING EDGE WITHOUT FITTING PREPARED HINGES 23.Cut hinge to length, countersink for dimpled skin and fit so that extrusion is flush with top back edge fold of spar. 24. Fit hinge pin lock tab both sides NOTE THIS CAN BE DONE WHEN FITTING ELEVATOR. THE LOCKS SHOULD BE POSITIONED BEHIND THE FARINGS (SEE FURTHER PAGES). THE FARINGS WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED TO ENABLE ACCESS FOR MAINTAINCE OR REMOVAL OF ELEVATORS. Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 163

20 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY INITIAL SETTING FOR STABILISER 25.Lift tail and set stringer line level = 0 degree 26.Set Stabiliser angle Top of Stabiliser = 0 degree Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 164

21 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY NOTE IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO OPEN THE TUBE HOLE IF EXTRA CLEARANCE IS NEEDED 27. Trim edges of fiberglass farings to suit and mark position. NOTE THERE ARE SCRIBED LINES ON THE FARINGS DO NOT CUT ON THESE LINES IT IS PREFERABLE TO EXTEND EDGE ABOUT 10mm OVER THIS LINE THE LINES FOR FIXING THE FARINGS SHOULD COINCIDE WITH RIB FLANGES DO NOT FIX ENTIRELY - JUST PICK UP EVERY SECOND OR THIRD HOLE THE REASON FOR THIS IS THAT IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO ALTER ANGLE OF STABILISER AFTER FLIGHT TESTING 28. Drill through c/line of rib folds to establish positions for anchor nuts Allow clearance for elevator control rod exit 29. Once correct Stabiliser position is achieved anchor nuts can be fitted and countersunk screws used to hold farings Gaps between nuts are approx 80mm Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 165

22 STABILISER E6 AND E7: HORIZONTAL STABILISER ASSEMBLY Anchor nuts positioned on rib fold for faring screws APPROX 80mm Top fixings are into lower fin rib Part No finishes gap behind aft spar and between top and bottom of faring Completed faring allows the fuselage lines to flow into the tailplane Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 166

23 ELEVATORS E2 AND E3 PORT AND STARBOARD ELEVATORS PREPARE AND FIT SKINS See packing List Empennage pg 2 & 3 - Elevator NOTES The elevators can be largely completed on their own except for riveting on the hinge. It is important to have the stabiliser fitted before finalizing riveting of the elevator hinges. This is to allow for small adjustment. The elevators have been pre-assembled in jigs and pre-mounted to the horizontal stabiliser to ensure they are true. Some foam is fitted inside to eliminate any tincanning. A balancing mass is added forward of the hinge line. Lead shot in resin is used. Once fitted the builder must check for equal trailing edge alignment and line-up of stabiliser and elevator skin surfaces. The trim tab is cable controlled to the starboard side elevator. Look over drawings and The kit is received with temporary rivets holding skins to frame 1. Drill out temporary holding rivets. Prepare parts and cleco all holes 3/32. 2.With both skins in place top and bottom drill 1/8 all holes EXCEPT FOR HINGE HOLES AND TRAILING EDGES. 3.Fit elevators temporarily to the hinges on trailing edge of stabiliser and align trailing edge and tips. THIS CAN BE DONE WITH OR WITHOUT RUDDER IN PLACE. 4.Using as many clecos as you can & drill alternate holes 1/8 and cleco through ribs. With elevators aligned drill 3/32 through hinges A STRAIGHT EDGE INDICATES EQUAL TRAILING EDGE POSITION. Drill through 3/32 into trailing edge and c/sink for small rivets Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 167

24 ELEVATORS E2 AND E3 PORT AND STARBOARD ELEVATORS 5. Remove Elevators by taking out hinge clecos. 6. Dimple ribs and skins on the workbench. BEFORE FINAL FITMENT OF TOP SKIN, FOAM CAN BE ADDED BETWEEN RIBS. GLUE DOWN AND SMOOTH LEVEL WITH TOP SKIN AND GLUE TO TOP SKIN BEFORE RIVETING. 7. Complete counter sinking and riveting 3/32 on trailing edges. Tap edges gently over trailing edge tube (this can later be filled and smoothed). 8. Re-fit elevator. Check skin line under elevator and stabiliser. NOTE This shows elevator temporarily mounted with clecos. Skins are riveted on before trim tab is cut free. Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 168

25 ELEVATORS E2 AND E3 PORT AND STARBOARD ELEVATORS ELEVATORS - TRIM TAB 3mm wide cut each side See packing List-Empennage pg 3 & 4 Elevator Starboard. NOTE As supplied the trim tab spar is in position with a holding rivet and slotted for the trim tab. Underside of tab. Note full riveting prior to cutting ends. The tab trailing edge is part of elevator trailing edge and is cut to separate after riveting. Procedure 1. With elevator on workbench draw two lines to allow cuts for a 3mm clearance on each side of tab. Cleco top leading edge and carefully cut tube and skins (in line with ends of tab spar). 2. Cut hinge suppled in bag E4 to suit. Connect with hinge wire the same length as tab. Top leading edge is dimpled and ready to locate trim tab 3. Position tab with hinge under skins to align with trailing edge and equal space each side. 4. Checking position mark then remove and drill outside holes in hinge strips. 5. Re-fit, matchdrill all holes and countersink. This shows hinge in position on top leading edge THE TRIM TAB CUT OUT NOW NEEDS TO BE FINISHED OFF AND TAB END RIBS MADE Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 169

26 ELEVATORS E2 AND E3 PORT AND STARBOARD ELEVATORS ELEVATORS - TRIM TAB 6. Using the blank 20th material supplied trace its inside shape 7.Cut and fold the end ribs as shown 8.Prepare and locate the trim tab horn on the outer underside of the tab. Ensure that it is in line with cable guide exit hole centerline Cable Cable guide and adjustment nuts Cable connection to horn Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 170

27 ELEVATORS E4: ELEVATORS - HORN With elevator removed prepare and prime horn and fit to the inner rib. There are anchor nuts pre-fitted to the inside of the rib. Use the Bolts and washers from Controls Bag CN7. The elevator can be mounted and hinge riveted in place. ADDING COUNTERWEIGHT TO ELEVATORS WEIGHT ON PORT SIDE 1.1KG WEIGHT ON STB SIDE 1.3 KG PLEASE ALSO SEE SKETCH ON DRAWING LIST Lead shot is used. Please see method explained on sketch supplied. If method is used by drilling a hole it must be patched smooth by filling and covering securely. Alternatively the end rib can be folded back carefully where it meets the spar (see sketch). Get the weight as far back into the end as possible. ONCE COMPLETE THE LEADING AND TRAILING EDGES OF THE ELEVATORS CAN BE FILLED AND SMOOTHED USING A GOOD GRADE EPOXY FILLER Issue 6/2007 Printed Empennage Page 171

28 RUDDER E1: RUDDER See packing List E1 Empennage pg 1 - Rudder GENERAL NOTES See drawing 3-003, this will familiarize the builder with the assembly and mounting. The rudder has been pre-assembled in a jig and matched to the fin. It is best to have completed the fin assembly on the fuselage and then mount the rudder and cleco in position. The skin edges need to be drilled and trimmed in places and tapped over the tube. There are two hatches for accessing mountings and both have doublers. Use recommended bolting method for fixing pivot bolts as to dwgs 9-009and The aft fuselage skins will require some trimming back (after fitting) to achieve full port and starboard rudder travel (see symmetry drawing). Hatches can be fixed on with self-tapping screws. Top pivot rod end Rudder horn Curved leading edge USE SPARE NUTS FOR ALL TEMPORARY MOUNTING OF THE RUDDER THIS IS TO KEEP NYLOCS IN GOOD CONDITION Lower pivot rod end Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 172

29 RUDDER E1: RUDDER PIVOT ARRANGEMENT Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 173

30 RUDDER E1: RUDDER Procedure 1. Ensure pivot brackets are securely mounted and rudder cable exit holes provide good clearance. 2.Mount rudder on fin post whilst the skins are still held with temporary rivets. Check for good clearance above fin and profile confirmation once fitted. Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 174

31 RUDDER E1: RUDDER With rudder mounted make sure it is vertical and aligns with fin top when neutral. 3.Drill 3/32 pilot holes on to ribs and cleco whilst mounted. 4. Assembly clecoed up can now be removed for fitting. 5.Remove skin with no hatches. 6.Fit top hatch doubler using holes in doubler to drill skin. FORWARD AND AFT ADJUSTMENT OF PIVOT POINTS ARE MADE USING NYLOCS ON ROD ENDS NOTE: PHOTO SHOWS NYLOC NOT FULLY TIGHTENED Use doubler to drill holes through skin Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 175

32 RUDDER E1: RUDDER Drill out 1/8 7. Fit bottom doubler FORWARD AND AFT ADJUSTMENT OF PIVOT POINTS ARE MADE USING NYLOCS ON ROD ENDS 8.Leading edge skin holes need to be drilled This is done by fitting UNDER the skin and using the holes to matchdrill through both the leading edge and vertical post on both sides Fold slightly before final riveting so that the skin fits flat to rudder sides once riveted on OUTSIDE NOTE ALIGN HOLES ON LEADING EDGE TO CENTRALISE WITH EYE BOLT AND TOP ROD END CLEARANCE HOLES Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 176

33 RUDDER E1: RUDDER 9. With skins in position mark off and trim excess trailing edge. Ideally the skins will be curved over to be close to meeting BUT NOT OVERLAPPING. 10.Mark and drill for 3/32 holes at approx 30mm part. Do port side and then make sure the starboard side holes are offset (staggered) so as not to foul on rivets on previous side. 11.Rremove and prepare all skins and parts using standard procedure. 12. Tap over skin edges to suit tube. NOTE If necessary builder can scallop back skin materials lightly between rivets on rudder top in order to follow tighter curve. FINISH EDGES USING EPOXY FILLER Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 177

34 RUDDER E1: RUDDER 13.Drill 3/32 holes slightly on outside of centerline for good skin fitting. 14.Countersink and dimple for 3/32 rivets. 15.Countersink and dimple for 1/8 rivets. Check horn ends, prepare, finish and drill for AN3 bolt for springs. 16.Foam is used to eliminate tin-canning. Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 178

35 RUDDER E1: RUDDER 17.Final riveting is done after dimpling and priming. 18.Trailing edge can be finished off with rudder off the fin. Use 3/32 c/s rivets on trailing edge 19. The aft fuselage skin will need to be trimmed back enough to give full rudder movement. ONCE COMPLETE THE TRAILING EDGES OF THE RUDDER CAN BE FILLED AND SMOOTHED USING A GOOD GRADE EPOXY FILLER Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 179

36 RUDDER E1: RUDDER Hatches can be fixed on with self-tapping screws. This edge needs trimming to achieve full travel Port/Stb. Use D shackle to fit spring to tailwheel steering. NOTE WITH RUDDER PEDALS AND CABLES FITTED TO CORRECT LENGTH THE PEDALS ARE TO TOUCH (STOP) ON FLOOR MOUNTING ONCE FULL TRAVEL IS ACHIEVED Empennage Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 180

37 2 - Wing WINGS WING TIPS AILERONS OUTBOARD FLAPS FITTING WINGS INBOARD FLAPS WING Issue 6/2007 Printed

38 WING W1, W2, W3: WING ASSEMBLY See Packing list Wing Kit - Page 1,2,3 About the Wing Kit Packed parts The Spitfire wing kit is basically broken down into the spars, ribs, stiffeners, skins, control components, hinges, packers and pitot tube (for port side only). All skins are numbered and their position marked ie: top aft and tip or root end. Manufacture Spars have already been made and aileron idler arm mounting brackets bolted on to the spars. What has been completed so far? Both wings have been pre-assembled in the factory using a jig. A wing jig has been used in the factory to build in washout. Dimpling has been done. Washout This is the gradual change between the cord line angle of the root rib and cord line angle of the tip rib. In this case the wing jig sets in an angle of about 1.9degrees. Washout has an important role influencing the Spitfires wing stall characteristics. WASHOUT ANGLE MUST BE THE SAME ON BOTH WINGS When can the builder start? Once the builder is familiar with the basic procedures as outlined in book 1. Starting off We recommend first putting at least one wing together (as is, with plastic covering on) with clecos on the bench as a dummy run. This will familiarize the builder with the assembly. Do not put in all clecos - only enough to establish their fitment position. Include doing the wheel well and flexible joiner strips and at least two inboard skins. The outer skins will induce washout so leave them off for now. You will notice all parts have numbers and are named as to their orientation. When it comes to preparing the parts it is very important to remember this. To do this it is best to tag parts with a label wired to the part. Do not spray paint over the labels. DO NOT SCRATCH NUMBERS ON TO PARTS BECAUSE THESE WINGS HAVE BEEN PRE- BUILT AND DIMPLED, ALLOW THE HOLES TO FIND THEIR CORRECT POSITION WHEN CLECOING TOGETHER USE THE INBOARD AFT POINT INDICATED AS YOUR START DATUM FOR SKINS WORK METHODICALLY FROM THE INBOARD SIDE OR CENTER OF THE SKINS FLATTENING IT OUT AS ONE WOULD A SHEET OF PAPER What equipment does the builder need to start? A stable, level, good sized workbench approximately 3 x 1.2m (10 x 4 ). Some random sized blocks of polystyrene foam to support the wing above the table (some foam from the kit packaging could help). A few straight pieces of timber board (size can be seen in photo s). Two large and two small adjustable G-Clamps. Two rigid straight edges (25 x25 x 1.6 x 1.7 long aluminium tube would be good). Points to Remember 1.Handle the skins carefully and store them out of the way whilst not assembing so that there is no chance of damage 2.Leave plastic on until build process begins 3.After removing plastic, check the skin flatness between dimples. It may be necessary to redimple some holes in order to reduce any bulging. 4.Front skins must overlay aft skins 5.Inner skins overlap outer skins WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 182

39 WING W1, W2, W3: WING BUILD - OUTLINE PROCEDURE LIST 1. Test build and trim leading edge ends 2. Disassemble and prepare all components a) Aft spar b) Wing spar and bell crank c) Ribs d) Skins e) Stiffeners f) Packers g) Doublers h) Hatch covers i) Hinges j) Gap strips k) Vertical stiffeners for root ribs l) Leading edge 12.Pitot/static tube fitment (for port wing) 13. Fit top flexible strips for wheel well side 14. Bottom skins 15. Gap strip 16. Fit aileron hinge to aft spar- drill and c/sink 17. Fit wing hatch doubler and cover NOTE WING IS BUILT RIGHT WAY UP AND UPPER SKIN FITTED BEFORE LOWER SKIN 3. Re-assemble spar, all ribs, aft spar, doublers and leading edge with clecos 4. Fit bell crank assembly 5. Rivet ribs to wing spar 6. Rivet aft ribs to wing spar 7.Cleco on leading edge OUTER FLAP AILERON WING TIP 8. Prepare, position and rivet top skins 9. Fit aileron hinge TOP VIEW OF WING 10. Turn over wing 11. Rivet on attachment doubler AFT RIB 2 (2-124) AFT RIB3 (2-123) STIFFENERS AFT RIB 4 (2-122) AFT RIB 5 (2-121) AFT RIB 6 (2-120) WHEEL WELL AFT RIB 7 (2-119) AFT RIB 8 (2-118) FWD & AFT RIB 1 (2-116) AFT RIB 9 (2-117) FWD RIB 2 (2-115) FWD RIB 3 (2-114) FWD RIB 4 (2-113) FWD RIB 5 (2-112) FWD RIB 6 (2-111) FWD RIB 7 (2-110) FWD RIB 8 (2-109) TIP SPAR (2-202) WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 183

40 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY See Packing Lists W1, W2 PRESENTATION OF WING KIT W3 and W4 Leading edge Tip Wheel Well Surround Aft Spar Ribs Wing Spar Flex Spine (for Wheel Well) NOTES ON MATCHING WING TO CENTERSECTION RIB PROFILES The centersection root rib is temporarily clecoed to the wing root in this photo. This fitment arrangement ensures that the centersection root rib profile automatically matches the wing root rib profile. Cord Line These clecoed holes correspond with the common cord line. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 184

41 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 2.1 Procedure 1.Test Build Prepare benchtop. Pre-assemble one wing for familiarization Assemble wing components in the order shown below Indicated flange directions Aft side Aft Spar Assembly Leading edge Spar Ribs Aft spar & leading edge 5 Start datum for 6 skins 7 b f a c g e Aileron bell crank position d Pitot (only for port side h Stiffeners Top skins Bottom skins Note a) Aileron bell crank is mounted on the aft (trailing) side of the spar b)test build wing either way up c)ensure correct orientation of ribs - top will be marked and note flange direction d)typical top skin sequence layup a,b,c,& d e)typical bottom skin sequence layup e,f,g,& h WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 185

42 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Wing build familiarisation Assemble with minimum clecos. Use two clecos to test fit ribs. Note Rib edge goes under stiffener. Lower aft skin to meet at datum (see previous page) together with rib and spar end. Outer Skin Rib Rear Spar Spar join comes together with skin edge Spar joiner fits on the outside. Note. Wing shown below is completely preassembled. This has been checked in factory. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 186

43 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Bell crank for aileron control is shown here Trim leading edge tip end to rib edge Trim wing leading edge end to root rib edge Rib tabs fit under rib flange (when coming to final riveting ensure that the rivet goes through this tab hole before pulling) Spar rib and skin come together at the datum corner (refer page 185) WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 187

44 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Wheel well recess and flexible spine Access hatch This is the wheel recess area. It is cut and positioned to take the shape of the leading edge. The flexible strips facilitate its location. Position the strips as marked using the holes and cleco in position. Wheel well skin fits inside flexible fixing strips (2-106). stiffener runs through cut out. When you are confident with the wing assembly take it apart again It is preferable to repeat this process for other wing. 2.The next stage will be to prepare all parts for riveting using standard procedure. Check and remove all sharp edges and re-dimple any holes if they cause any skin bulging. IMPORTANT BEFORE STRIPPING OFF- PLASTIC TAG ALL PARTS WITH THEIR NUMBER, WING SIDE AND ORIENTATION WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 188

45 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Disassemble and Prepare all components The stages for preparation can be identified by the following: a) Aft spar assembly parts b) Spar and bell crank c) Ribs d) Skins e Stiffeners f) Packers g) Doublers h) Hatch covers i) Hinges j) Gap strips k) Attachment doubler(2-103) l) Rivet vertical stiffeners to root ribs A Prepare and cleco together Aft Spar (parts as shown) Insure orientation is correct Note As these parts have been pre-fitted there is generally only one way in which they can be reassembled Joiner goes on outside of spar using matching holes WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 189

46 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Disassemble and Prepare all components B Prepare ribs Take off plastic use standard procedure and etch prime, smooth off any sharp edges C Prepare skins Prepare skins as to standard procedure. Smooth any sharp edges and underside of dimples Clean off numbering with MEK before etch priming. wing skin prepared and sprayed WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 190

47 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Disassemble and Prepare all components D Prepare and prime stiffeners making sure they are tagged for correct relocation These are the extruded strips which run laterally between the ribs (see page 149) E A packer strip is used between the top triangular gusset plate(2-165) and the root end of the spar. It will need to be drilled using wing skin as a template. Standard. preparation required. Packer fits under trailing edge of top skin Note On the underside this gap is filled by the aileron hinge. F Prepare doublers Wing attachment doublers (2-103) Doublers go on the inside of the root flange and re-reinforce wing for the front attachment brackets. Holes are match drilled. G Hatch covers Use standard procedure to prepare hatch covers for aileron control access. Note the underside large skin (2-179) becomes the doubler for the hatch cover. Picture shows completed hatch arrangement. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 191

48 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Disassemble and prepare all components H Hinges are supplied in 6ft lengths. They must be fitted and cut to suit wing whilst in position. At this stage they can only be spray painted. Cut to size on the wing. K Prepare Leading edge by removing all sharp edges and cleaning countersunk holes. Use a larger diameter drill bit to clean the burrs off the inside edge holes. NOTE Later kits have a single root rib (fwd and aft combined). Vertical stiffeners are fitted in similar fashion). I The Gap Strips will be fitted to close off the space between the underside edge of the wing and aileron. This must be prepared on the wing so leave the plastic on until it is fitted. J Rivet Vertical Stiffeners to root ribs. Cut stiffeners to length from strips supplied to fit vertically between the lightening holes of the root ribs on the inside. Position centrally as shown, drill and rivet on using 1/8 dome head rivets at 30mm spacings. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 192

49 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 3. Assembly Use a large table and foam or wood blocks to support re-assembled wing in the same fashion as before. The picture below shows that the wing can be built without any special jig. Note that it is important that the wing be able to flex and allow its parts and skins to find their correct jigged positions using the dimpled hole center. 4. Fit Bell Crank assembly Nyloc facing UP when wing is inverted Wing Spar long crank side Small Push rod (fitted later) Large Push rod (fitted later) Orientation of bell crank assy. (seen from wing underside) WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 193

50 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 5.Rivet all rib ends to the wing spar Cleco components of wing together on your work bench. Ensure correct rib orientation and flange position (refer page 185). Mount high enough on foam blocks to allow clearance for clecos and stabilize the wing frame whilst fitting parts. 6. Rivet aft ribs to wing spar. Ensure rib numbers and orientation are correct. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 194

51 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Rivet aft spar to assembly Cleco assembled aft spar to wing frame, holes will align correctly. Do not force hole positions. If they don t line up it is likely that you do not have the correct holes selected. Rivet rib ends to spar. Do not rivet through holes on top where skins are to be located. 7. Cleco on leading edge Position leading edge on front ribs and cleco on There are some holes in the front of the leading edge ribs which allow 3/2 c/s rivets to fix leading edge correctly. Ribs will be perpendicular to spar. Note: Alignment will be justified once the skins go on. At all stages support with blocks so that the frame does not wobble WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 195

52 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 8. Prepare and position top skins Note: Leading edges of skins will have to be bent slightly to avoid any excessive gaps when skin gets riveted to leading edge. FOLLOW THE SEQUENCE FOR LAYING ON SKINS AS SHOWN ON PAGE 185. Cleco together all prepared wing parts topside up using the sequence on page 185. With the ribs positioned and riveted you can start laying the skins in order a,b,c,and d. First just position the skins, being careful that the front skins overlay the back skins and the inner skins overlay the outer skins. Use as many clecos as possible so that the hole centers align - especially on the outboard skins. Hinge goes here, leave riveting until fitted Packer goes here, leave riveting until fitted START FROM THE SPAR HOLES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SKINS AND WORK YOUR WAY OUTWARD. THIS WILL AUTOMATICALLY BUILD IN WASHOUT. NOTE: USE C/S RIVETS HERE TO ALLOW FOR FLUSH MOUNTING OF WING BRACE. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 196

53 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 8. Prepare and position top skins cont. Progress OUTWARD to the outer leading edge skin on the top side. Overlap skins correctly. NOTE: The edges of the skins can be angled very slightly so as to flatten cleanly onto skin below. This can be done in a folder or alternatively by hand by drawing a line on material about 6mm from edge. Hold the material over a solid true edge and gently tap over with a flat hammer or suitable tool. Tap over edge slightly SKIN BLOCK Only a very small angle is needed. This way lapping skins will not leave openings. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 197

54 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 9. Fit aileron hinge Fit hinge under aft edge of top skin (flush side up) starting at edge of top gusset plate (2-165). Align with wing skin aft edge (see picture below). Match drill hinge 1/8 with wing skin. Cut hinges to size (cut to closest wire guide segment) as shown below. Leave a small length of hinge wire free (over the length of the hinge) to be used for locking later. Cleco and rivet hinge into position. Make sure flush edge is on top. Cut hinge at segment. Hinge lines up to skin edge as shown. Leave about 100mm extra for locking. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 198

55 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 10. Turn wing over IN THIS PICTURE THE TOP SKIN WAS CLECOED IN PLACE FIRST AND THEN TURNED OVER Follow sequence on pg 185 Aft Spar Aft ribs Stiffeners leading edge Flexible strip (spine) Leading edge is clecoed on before and only finally riveted finally once all skins are fitted. 11. Attachment Plate Attachment plate gets fitted to the root rib leading edge. Drill and Rivet using 1/8 dome head. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 199

56 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Pitot tube fitment 12. Pitot/static line pitot tube assy. bell crank mounted to main spar tube connectors riveted to root rib(4-012) aileron push rods fix tubes to stiffener with cable ties A 1 hole needs to be drilled in spar to bring tubes through to leading edge side. Drill and rivet pitot tube male to male connectors to the FWD wing rib as shown (port wing only). WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 200

57 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 13. Fit flexible strips for wheel well side Fit and rivet on flexible spine to underside of top skin. Re-fit wheel well to flexible joining spine. Orientate to line up with retract arch. Drill for 1/8 dome head rivets. Relocate top spine on other side with clecos and check fitment of bottom skin. Once checked rivet well to top skin. Wing top skin WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 201

58 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 14. Wheel well sides Dimple and c/s rivet bottom edge where spine tabs join with bottom skin. This is done on completion of riveting skins. Fit access hatch to inside of well using anchor nuts. Roll cover as necessary. Cut off bridge to allow a recess for the leg to retract. Hatch fitted to wheel well Fabricate filler and rivet in position to join gap and form arch. Rivet in position. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 202

59 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY 15. Bottom Skins Lay on bottom skins in the sequence noted on page 185 starting with the large aft skin. Make sure forward skins overlap aft and inboard skins overlap outboard. Using as many clecoes as you can position the skins. Working OUTWARD rivet alternate holes systematically. Riveting of alternate holes on the leading edge. Tap leading edge skins gently to close WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 203

60 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY STOP!! THE GAP STRIP MUST BE TENSIONED USING THE METHOD BELOW 16. Fit Gap strip The gap strip is attached aft of the wing underside It is sandwiched between the second spar and underside wing skin. Its purpose is to close the gap between the underside of the wing and ailerons. The wing skins and spar can be prepared but not riveted yet. Do not drill gap strip straight away. Drill on ends only then follow the method. Gap strip in position Fix Inboard End - Underside 55mm 20mm Fix Outboard End - Underside 55mm WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 204

61 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Center - Underside METHOD DRILL AND CLECO ENDS OF GAP STRIP TO WING. BEFORE DRILLING HOLES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE GAP STRIP THE CENTER NEEDS TO BE PULLED OUTWARD ABOUT 5mm About 60mm THIS INDUCES SOME SPRING- BACK AND HELPS KEEP THE SKIN FLAT AGAINST THE AILERON UNDERSIDE WHEN MOUNTED NOTE CUT OUT CLEARANCE FOR AILERON HORN TO SUIT ONCE AILERON IS FITTED 1.Once pinned use the holes to matchdrill for the other rivets. 2.Drill all holes 1/8 Dimple and follow normal procedure to complete riveting. 3.A radius sharp edges. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 205

62 WING W1, W2, W3, W4: WING ASSEMBLY Complete the wing hatches with anchor nuts and screws. Follow same process as fuse hatches. This wing is complete with flaps and ailerons. FLAPS AND AILERONS ARE COMPLETED ON THE WING AND MOUNTED FOR CORRECT SET UP. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 206

63 WET WING W11: WET WING - Supplementary notes To be read in conjunction with Standard Wing build 1.General Notes - Description Below is a drawing of the area ahead of the wing spar between ribs forming the fuel tank. The top and bottom skins encompass the tank area volume is approx 80ltrs. The two outside ribs do not have lightning holes. The flush, lockable fuel cap is on the highest point on top of the wing. Stringers and Baffles Between the top and bottom of the front stringers are baffle plates. Spar The forward part of the wingspar which will be in contact with fuel has not been primed and sealed rivets have been used. All parts inside the tank are not primed. Ribs Ribs used inside the fuel tank are not primed. The edges are smoothed and shiny coating kept. Stringers Do not paint the stringers inside tank. Skins Only the outside of the skins are prepared and primed. Leave skins to be in contact with fuel clean. Sender Units They get fitted in position shown on drawing and are accessible through the hatches in the wheel well. Fuel guages must match the units. Fuel Filler Caps Flush, lockable filler caps are supplied. Drain & Breather- see position on drawing. Fuel Supply Outlet A threaded block is riveted to the inboard tank rib. A reducer and strainer is fitted here. Auxillary ribs for wet wings BREATHER FUEL TANK WING GENERAL ARRANGEMENT WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 207

64 WET WING W11 : Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 2. Materials and Methods Rivets Sealed rivets have already been used on the assembled spar forward side in the fuel tank zone. Dome headed sealing (blind) rivets are to be used for internal parts ie:ribs to spar and doublers. Countersunk rivets dipped in B2 sealant are used on external skins. Sealing compound requirements Recommended type is PR1422 A2 and B2 or equivalent. Type A2 is brushable (used on larger surfaces). Type B2 is thicker (used for rivets). Sloshing Compound PR1005 (this is used to seal any small leaks once tank is built). Cleaning Parts All parts to be sealed are to be cleaned with MEK. Method of Sealing rivets a )Put a small quantity of PRC1422B2 in a container & dip up above rivet flange prior to fitting rivet. b) Use c/sunk rivets in outer skins and dome sealing rivets (OSR ) internally. c) Cover all rivets with sealer using a stiff small brush. Sealing skins Paint both cleaned surfaces of matching surfaces with PRC prior to riveting Use brushable type B2 Work Preparation and Timing It will pay to organize the parts materials and the process before you start so that you can work quickly and with confidence. The sealing needs to be carried out quickly while sealer is fresh. Setting time depends on the sealer purchased, half hour to two hour setting PRC can be obtained. Cure time is 24hrs. Rivet has been dipped in sealant before pulling Jointing surfaces are painted each side before riveting together. Surfaces which will need to be sealed must be cleaned with MEK. Dome headed rivets used on spar and for fixing ribs to spar internally. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 208

65 W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes WET WING 3.Pre- build It is recommended to pre-build the wing as to standard wing directions. Building the fuel tank wing may take a little longer because of the extra ribs and the baffle plates. Note - the wing was pre-assembled in the factory prior to shipping to the builder. Read through what is required to build a standard wing as background. NOTE A pre-build is recommended so that the builder becomes familiar as to how the wing goes together. This will enhance confidence and allow builder to work faster. Wing pre-built shown in factory The wing is clecoed together using as many clecoes as available. Wing shown with underside skin off This shows where the baffles go. Fwd stringers and baffles WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 209

66 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 3.Pre-build cont. This shows tank area with extra ribs positioned temporarily with clecoes. Note The aft spar has been temporarily riveted together. Take note of its assembly and fit as it is for the pre-build. Before final fitment it will have to be dis-assembled for prep. and paint. As seen here the forward side of spar has sealed rivets and is un-painted. These rivet heads will need to be sealed over later during final assembly. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 210

67 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 4.Prepare parts and assemble All parts are prepared and re-assembled leaving components on fuel tank section unpainted. Prepare and fit up parts similar to standard wing build. Aft spar has been re-assembled after priming and clecoed in position. NOTE SEE STD WING TO ALLOW FOR FITTING OF PITOT AND STATIC LINE TUBES INSIDE WINGS. METHOD FULLY CLECO ON PREPARED SKINS - THEN REMOVE THE FORWARD SKINS. Fit vertical stiffeners to root rib as to standard build. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 211

68 WET WING W11: Wing - WET WING - Supplementary notes 5.Seal front of spar Support spar level and horizontal - a simple stand could be made to support spar using tag bolt holes on the one end and support horizontally at the other end. Note: Do not put sealer under skin on main spar until you are ready to fit fuel tank skins because they use common rivet holes. Prepare sealer compound. Pump out onto spar in stages using tube. With a stiff small brush spread over all rivet heads on spar. Daub sealer on to rivet heads so that they are covered completely. Sealer can also be brushed between rivet heads making sure all heads are well covered. Add sealer behind rib flange area on spar before fitting ribs. Ribs must be fitted as soon as possible ensuring correct orientation. Put sealer on outside rib flanges and cleco in position whilst sealer is soft. Sealer should ooze up through holes. Dip rivets in sealer and with ribs in position rivet ribs in position between clecoes. Rivet dipped in sealer Excess sealer comes through rib hole WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 212

69 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 6. Fit Stringers and Baffles Fit forward stringers and baffle plates. Make sure drain cutouts are on lower side of baffles. Note Rivets on inside of baffle plates need not to be sealed. This side of baffle is folded back to allow fuel to flow past baffle freely. 7. Rivet on trailing edge skins DO NOT RIVET SKIN TO SPAR UNTIL FWD SKINS ARE READY FOR FITTING. NOTE DO NOT RIVET AFT UNDERSIDE TRAILING EDGE TO ALLOW FOR FLAP HINGE SEE ALSO STANDARD WING SECTION IN MANUAL FOR CLARIFICATION. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 213

70 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 8. Cleco on top skins and wheel well skin. NOTE THE BOTTOM SKIN OF THE FUEL TANK IS SEALED FIRST The TOP skin is clecoed on to stabilize the wing shape in preparation to seal and rivet the BOTTOM skin of the tank. This is the boundary line of area of bottom tank to be sealed. The skins on either side are to be prepared and ready for fitting. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 214

71 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 9.Fit lower wing tank skin NOTES: The wing tank skins are fitted on TOP of the other skins. IT IS BEST TO PREPARE WELL AND WORK QUICKLY TO GET ALL THE UNDERSIDE FORWARD SKINS DONE BEFORE THE SEALER DRIES. FIRST DO OUTER SKINS - DO NOT RIVET SKINS ON OUTSIDE RIBS YET BECAUSE THE TANK SKIN USES COMMON RIVET HOLES. Fit outside forward skins so that the tank skins go on top (overlap them). The outer tank ribs need to be prepared, cleaned and sealant applied to the flange surfaces. The outer skins can then be clecoed in place. Sealed over end rib Place wing level and support at table height A NOTE Fix tank skin on while sealant is still wet B Sealed over end rib Add sealant to outer rib edges and under skins. These outer skins A and B have been fitted and sealer added under them just prior to fitting lower fuel tank skin. Apply sealant on to top of spar before bottom fuel tank skin is fitted. Add sealant all along leading edge. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 215

72 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 9.Fit lower wing tank skin - cont. Prepare skin for sealing with a light rub with a scotchbrite pad over rivet line. Paint A2 sealant on rivet line. Etch prime outside only. Start from leading edge and fit bottom tank skin up first with clecoes. NOTE: CLECOS WILL GET CLOGGED WITH SEALANT IF LEFT TOO LONG., TO AVOID THIS DIP IN SOLVENT AFTER USE. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 216

73 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 9.Fit lower wing tank skin - cont. Make sure sealant is around all holes before final fitting of skin and riveting. Cleco skin using every second hole. Proceed to fix down skin with 1/8 c/sunk rivets supplied, dipped with sealant using the holes in between clecos. Once this side is done turn wing over. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 217

74 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 10. Fit Sender Unit and Fuel Outlet Fit doubler in position for sender unit and outlet. See also drawing on first page of wet wing manual for position. Outlet has thread for reducer and strainer. Matchdrill for threaded block which must be sealed when fitting doubler. Depending on sender unit may need adaptation before fitment to tank. Possible changes to make: 1.Drill hole at 90 Degrees for float arm. 2.Cut off tab stops. 3. Extend/reduce as necessary. NOTE ENSURE SENDER UNIT MATCHES THE GAUGE IN ACCORDANCE WITH MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 218

75 WET WING W11: Wing - WET WING - Supplementary notes 10.Fit Sender Unit and Outlet Cont. Matchdrill for sender mounting ensuring correct orientation. Float moves through opening in next rib. Put a wad of glue on top skin and bottom skin where float will touch. When it has gone off put grease on the wad so float wont stick. This will protect the skins from damage should the float move up and down excessively during flight, causing it to hit the skin. Backing plate for sender unit shown with rivets sealed. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 219

76 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 11. Fit Top Skins Fit fuel cap Note: Can be mounted flush as shown or flange can be on top. If it is mounted flush the holes for the mounting screws will need to be dimpled. A2 sealant under flange can be used instead of gasket. Fit and seal breather at highest point of tank. Prepare top of ribs and leading edge in the same way. Apply sealant to surfaces to be sealed using tube applicator. Cleco top skin on starting from leading edge. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 220

77 WET WING W11: Wing Build - WET WING - Supplementary notes 11. Fit Top Skins cont. Make sure all rivet holes have sealer on both sides before final riveting. Cleco every second hole and then rivet using same procedure. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 221

78 WET WING W11: Wing - WET WING - Supplementary notes 12. Testing wing for leaks When testing slight pressure can be applied using breather with fuel cap on. NOTE PRESSURISE VERY CAREFULLY KEEP PRESSURE AS LOW AS POSSIBLE 1-2 PSI 13. Fill and test tank for leaks at varied angles. If any small leaks are found use a sloshing compound. Change angles to penetrate all potential leak zones. When cured slightly pressurize and check by light spray with soapy water on outside. FOR FINAL FINISHING APPLY SAME METHOD AS USED ON STANDARD WING WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 222

79 WET WING W10: WING BUILD - WING TIP General Notes Wing tips are made to fit built wings Do not rivet together without prior mounting to the assembled wing. The wing tip uses a tube (formed in the factory) to take the leading edge through a curve so as to taper and blend into the outer aft point of the aileron trailing edge The wing tip root rib (2-101) will establish the position of the beginning of the aileron trailing edge. The spar rib (2-202) is positioned flat side forward and it has a common centerline with the wing spar. A doubler (2-206) fits inside the root rib (2-201) to close off the inboard side of the rib trailing edge Line up rib with wing spar is riveted here on to to close and reinforce end Match and shape to suit leading edge Rivets to line up with those on wing LEAVE DRAIN HOLE ON TRAILING EDGE CORNER WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 223

80 WET WING W10: WING BUILD - WING TIP Procedure 1. Check and prepare all parts. 2 Fit matching root rib into end of wing (flat side outboard) Position to close end. LEADING EDGE 3. Fit tube edge as shown. TRAILING EDGE ORIENTATE RIB SO THAT CURVED SIDE IS ON TOP ON PORT AND STB. WING TIP 4.Locate spar rib flat side forward as shown Position to centre of wing spar centerline Use straight edge to align. 5.Use pilot holes in spar rib to drill through to root rib. 6.Drill through end of rib 3/32 for clecos. 7. Fit aft skins and drill through about 5 holes along trailing edge into tube 3/32 for clecos. Wing tip skin goes under outer wing skin 8. Mark off hole positions on skin at similar equal matching centers to those on the main spar, drill 3/32. 9.Trim forward edge in line with rib. Trim tube ends if required WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 224

81 WET WING W10: WING BUILD - WING TIP 10. Fit forward skin. Position and drill for clecos. 11. Trim skin edge to line up with leading edge wing skin. 12. Remove from wing, drill and cleco fully. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 225

82 WET WING W10: WING BUILD - WING TIP Keep trailing edges flat 13.Tap edges over carefully. Round edges over tube 14.Fit back on wing and cleco in position. Adjust as required until satisfied and trim edges if necessary. 15.Drill alternate holes 1/8 and use standard procedure to complete. 15. Repeat for other side wing. WING TIP LINES UP WITH AILERON TRAILING EDGE. USE THE AILERON SKIN OR BY MEASUREMENT TO CHECK. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 226

83 AILERON W7: WINGS - AILERONS See packing List W7 Page 7 (Ailerons) See packing List W8 Page 8 (Flaps) NOTE LATER KITS HAVE PRE-ASSEMBLED AILERONS (TEMPORARY POP RIVETS CAN BE REMOVED) General notes See drawings and The ailerons are built on the wing together with the outboard flaps so that a uniform trailing edge is established. Riveting is done on the wing whilst clamped so as to establish the true flowing lines and avoid distortion. The fitting can be done on the wing whilst on a bench supported on foam blocks for easy accessibility. OUTBOARD FLAP Gap strip here AILERON The trailing edges of the aileron and outboard flaps are used as to establish the wings elliptical profile. Do not damage or trim these edges at this stage. Unlike the wings the ailerons and flaps are not preassembled in the factory. The ailerons and flaps are to be built so as the surfaces are flush with the top and bottom of the aft part of the wings. This is essential to keep turbulence to a minimum. Keep port and starboard sets separated. Use standard procedures to pre-assemble, prepare,drill to 1/8 dimple and rivet. Study the drawings and photos. Test build the aileron on the bench before removing the plastic covering. NOTE The spar fold angle less than 90 degrees is the UPPER SIDE of the aileron. Procedure 1.Orientate the ribs correctly as to drawing noting that all the ribs point inboard except for rib 1. 2.It may be necessary to further joggle the upper side of the ribs. If they are still tight in fitting into the spar joggle the underside slightly as well. 3.Cleco the ribs in place. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 227

84 AILERON W7: WINGS - AILERONS NOTE THE AILERON HORN CAN BE ASSEMBLED WITH ITS MATCHING RIBS BEFORE FITTING TO SPAR 4. Aileron horn fits between ribs 4 and 5. The holes in the horn will align with those in the ribs. Cleco in position temporarily. Note Rib to fit inside of spar. Joggle is on top. NOTE IF NECESSARY SLIGHTLY JOGGLE UNDERSIDE RIB FLANGE FOR A NEAT FIT WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 228

85 AILERON W7: WINGS - AILERONS NOTE THE AILERON SKIN DOUBLER FITS OVER THE HORN AND UNDER THE BOTTOM SKIN HOLES ARE MATCHING These holes align with lower skin and doubler. 5. Fit skin doubler over aileron horn and drill 3/32 for clecos. 6. With skin positioned and rib face aligned with skin edge, mark end hole centers and draw a line for the holes in the ribs. This will indicate the correct rib position to matchdrill 3/32 holes. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 229

86 AILERON W7: WINGS - AILERONS 7. Use the top and bottom skins to align the rib centers Skin must be flush with vertical face of spar front. 8. With skin positioned drill through some of the holes into the ribs and spar to stabilize the complete aileron assembly, ie both skins,ribs and horn assembly. 9. To complete the pre-assembly prepare and fit the trailing edges also. NOTE The trailing edges need to be cut to length. They have been curved but may require further work. The profile required is the same as the trailing edge of the skin. METHOD By tapping one edge on a solid steel surface such as a vice (shown) a change in the curve can be made. Tap the flat bar so as to end up with an even curve to suit the skin profile. Note the edge can be finalized later. Holes can be matchdrilled using the skins. Drill to 3/32 at this time just through where the ribs end. Do not drill all the holes yet. They will be done after mounting to wing. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 230

87 AILERON W7: WINGS - AILERONS Setting up Ailerons WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 231

88 AILERON W7: WINGS - AILERONS AILERON AND OUTBOARD FLAPS ONCE THE AILERON HAS BEEN TEST BUILT TO THIS STAGE THE MATCHING OUTBOARD FLAP CAN ALSO BE ASSEMBLED TO THE SAME LEVEL THIS IS DONE SO THAT BOTH THE AILERON AND FLAPS CAN BE MOUNTED ON THE WING TOGETHER FOR DRILLING AND INITIAL FITMENT MAKE A SMALL CLAMPING DEVICE SUCH AS IN THE PICTURE ABOVE IN READINESS FOR SETTING UP FLAP & AILERON ON THE WING USE A LONG BOLT OR A LENGTH OF THREADED ROD AND TWO BLOCKS WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 232

89 OUTBOARD FLAPS W8: WING - OUTBOARD FLAPS See packing List W8 Page 8 NOTE LATER KITS HAVE PRE-ASSEMBLED AILERONS (TEMPORARY POP RIVETS CAN BE REMOVED) Gap strip Spar General Notes Have a look at drawing Note flaps are hinged on the lower side unlike the ailerons. It is best to have both the aileron and flap preassembled to a stage that they can be mounted to the wing together. Some adjustable G-Clamps and the wooden blocks will help the builder to align the control surfaces during setup. The trailing edge of the outboard flaps match those of the ailerons. During fitment to the wing this can be set to form the elliptical wing shape. EACH RIB HAS HOLES TO DESIGNATE RIB NUMBER Procedure 1.Orientate ribs for each flap as shown on drawing No Rib 4 Rib 5 Rib 6 2. Fit horn doubler to rib 4 (2-127). Trim edges if required. Rib 7 Note topside has acute angle and is joggled on top Rib 8 Orientate the ribs. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 233

90 OUTBOARD FLAPS W8: WING - OUTBOARD FLAPS 3. Cleco ribs to spar as shown. These diagonal holes line up with skins. Bottom brace Top brace Bottom brace Port/starboard braces are symmetrically opposite. In each case the diagonal fold turns inwards. Once in position drill and cleco two outer holes on turned up edge initially. 4. Line up bottom skin with spar edges and rib sides. THESE HOLES ARE FOR THE HINGE - DO NOT DRILL THROUGH YET WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 234

91 OUTBOARD FLAPS W8: WING - OUTBOARD FLAPS 5. With the skin in place drill rib end holes Then draw a line between them. This will give the builder a centerline guide for drilling 3/32. Top of rib has joggle Picture shows the top side of rib. Note joggle to allow for the skin thickness. 6.With top brace on skin locate to line up with end of spar and edge of rib. 7.Align holes with rib centers and cleco assembly. Cut hinge to length of flap and align inner profile to skin edge. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 235

92 OUTBOARD FLAP W8: WING - OUTBOARD FLAPS 8.Cleco on gap strip. Note this can be clecoed from the inside when setting up on wing. 9.Cut and prepare trailing edge to suit. Drill 3/32 and cleco on. SPACE HERE ACTS AS A DRAIN HOLE 10. Ensure all skins and ribs align flush and drill all holes 3/32 and partially cleco complete structure. NOTES ONCE THE OUTBOARD FLAPS HAVE BEEN PRE-ASSEMBLED THEY NEED TO BE FITTED TO THE WING AND SET UP FOR DRILLING OUT TO 1/8 THIS IS IMPORTANT SO AS TO AVOID DISTORTION AND KEEP THE SURFACES TRUE SUPPORT WING ON BLOCKS OF FOAM WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 236

93 AILERON/FLAP W7 AND W8: SETTING UP AILERON AND OUTBOARD FLAP NOTES Look at drawing below and and OUTBOARD FLAPS In the case of the outboard flaps the hinge is on the wing underside. The hinge extends the complete length of the flap. AILERONS In the case of the aileron the hinge is on the wing topside. The hinge will extend to a point approximately 145mm from the inboard end of the aileron (as to hinge length on wing). Gap approx 10mm (minimum 3mm) Aileron hinge Once the aileron is fitted, clamped in position and align, the holes can be drilled for the hinge. FIRST DRILL END HOLES AND CLECO IN POSITION. Packer on aileron Follow line of trailing edges of skins Flap hinge NOTE FINAL ADJUSTMENT CAN BE MADE BEFORE DRILLING FOR HINGES. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 237

94 FLAP/AILERON W7 AND W8: SETTING UP AILERON AND OUTBOARD FLAP SUPPORT WING ON BLOCKS OF FOAM Use 2 straight edges and clamp in position before drilling Clamp flat edge on ends to align top of wing and aileron/flap WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 238

95 WING MOUNTING W6: WING MOUNTING See Packing list Wing Kit - Page 6 NOTE: BEFORE THE INBOARD FLAPS CAN BE MOUNTED, THE WINGS NEED TO BE FITTED AND CHECKED FOR SYMMETRY. General Notes The Spitfire must be positioned in your workshop or outside to allow both wings to be fitted. Follow the symmetry drawing and dimensions will have to be taken. You will need some space and some help. The wings are attached to the matching tangs of the main spar and pinned forward and aft. Temporary 1/2 bolts can be used during initial fitment and they do not have to be tightened fully during this set up phase. The temp bolts can be rounded to facilitate fitment during further build processes. The main tangs use two AN8-24 bolts each side with castle nuts. Front attachment uses 5/16 anchor nuts on angle brackets. They are mounted as shown in the picture so that they are accessible when removing underside cover strips. They are mounted centrally and do not have matching pilot holes. The aft fixing points use a brace bolted to the wing aft spar (using 5 AN3 bolts). At this stage it is better not to have the aileron push rods in position. The main task here is to establish the relative mounting positions fore and aft. SEE ARRANGEMENT BELOW WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 239

96 WING MOUNTING W6: WING MOUNTING Procedure 1. First mount the wing spar to the main spar. You will need assistance in supporting the wing at the tip and sides. Temporarily bolt on with spacers top and bottom. 2. Prepare brace to fit neatly inside and flush to aft side of aft spar. Drill prime and fit with the five AN3 bolts as shown. CENTER MOUNTING Do not worry about drilling the opposite single hole until wing position is found. NOTE C/SUNK RIVETS IN THIS AREA ALLOWS BRACE TO LIE FLUSH ON BACK OF SPAR. Aft anchor nut on center section is positioned once wings are symmetrically correct. AFT MOUNTING 3.Once wing symmetry has been checked in both planes also check that wing and c/section top skins lie flush. If necessary it is acceptable to use packers to true up. When symmetry is correct and equal both sides clamp in position and drill through using pilot hole. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 240

97 WING MOUNTING W6: WING MOUNTING 4.Mount 5/16 anchor nut in position inside. Bolt in position temporarily. 5.Clamp together on c/sect side and on wing side and position centrally (Note - There are no pilot holes on to the ribs). Mount so that the attachment bolt is basically on the cord line and about 50mm back from front of c/section spar FORWARD MOUNTING WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 241

98 WING MOUNTING W6: WING MOUNTING 6. Drill through and attach. 7. Bolt to c/c/secion and drill through Cleco lower bracket in position and mark position of bracket on wing side. 9. Positions are now fixed and can be completed and anchor nut mounted when removed. Remove sharp edges and clean and prime to standard procedure. The wings will be refitted to assemble inside flaps to align with elliptical wing profile. NOTE THE ANCHOR NUT IS MOUNTED ON THE TOP BRACKET AS SHOWN AND IS ACCESSIBLE FROM UNDERSIDE WHEN WING JOIN COVER STRIPS ARE REMOVED. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 242

99 INBOARD FLAPS W9: INBOARD FLAPS See Packing List - Wings- Inboard Flaps Pg 9 NOTE THE INBOARD AND OUTBOARD FLAPS WILL OPERATE TOGETHER CONNECTED TO THE COMMON TORQUE TUBE. SEE DWG GA of Flap controls General Notes: See Drawing and (Flap control details). Inboard flaps have been preassembled and held with temporary rivets. Note the trailing edge skins are longer than required and need to be trimmed back whilst fitting. Set up for min. 5mm gap When fitting the inboard flap the wing needs to be temporarily fitted (after mounting symmetrically). Trim for min. 5mm gap Inboard flap Outboard flap Aileron Inboard flap connects trailing edge line from end of faring to to beginning of trailing edge of outboard flap Follow trailing edge line Inboard flaps kits received pre-assembled The aileron, outboard flap and inboard flap follow the ecliptical wing shape. The inboard flap needs to be trimmed to follow the line of the trailing edge and allow a gap as shown from outboard flap when in raised position. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 243

100 INBOARD FLAPS W9: INBOARD FLAPS With wing fitted: 1.Get hinge and trailing edge for both flaps (note trailing edge does not have to be fitted yet). 2. Remove temporary rivets and align skins flush to flap spar and ribs. 3. Drill 3/32 and cleco together enough to hold assembly firmly. With the skin in place drill rib end holes. Then draw a line between them. This will give the builder a centerline guide for drilling 3/32. Leave trailing edge out at this stage. Hinge to fit in line with skin and parallel to spar. 4. Position 2 hinge (cut to length of spar) between spar and lower skin so that it is parallel with flap spar line (see drawing). 5. Drill 3/32 and cleco together enough to hold assembly firmly. Move clecos where necessary in order to mount flap. 6. With flap temporarily assembled, fit flap with hinge between centersection aft spar and aft belly skin. Align parallel and drill 3/32 and cleco each end. These holes are drilled for mounting hinge to aft spar Use 3/32 clecoes from underside to hold. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 244

101 INBOARD FLAPS W9: INBOARD FLAPS 7. Trim outboard edge if required for minimum 5mm clearance. Raise outer flap to align with top of wing and to line up with aileron. Clamp in position. Top of flap to be in line and flush with faring and top of wing. 8. With flap in position drill and cleco 3/32 fully. This will allow the builder the opportunity to check and adjust for basic trailing edge tip alignment. 9. Remove flap from spar and dis-assemble noting assembly arrangement. 10. Prepare all parts using standard procedure NOTE: DRILLING OUT TO 1/8 AND DIMPLING CAN BE DONE PRIOR TO TRIM AND FIT OF TRAILING EDGE. Note positions of corner braces WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 245

102 INBOARD FLAPS W9: INBOARD FLAPS Prepare for flap mounting and trimming. 11.Once prepared remount to spar and trim trailing edge. See also Drawing Outboard side tip edge start Inboard side tip edge finish NOTE FOR THE FIRST 6 INCHES THE TRAILING EDGES RUNS PARALLEL BEFORE CURVING IN TOWARDS FARING EDGE 12. Similar to outboard flaps and aileron finish trailing edges, use 12x3 flat bar to suit. Countersunk rivets fitted alternatively from top and bottom Allow for draining at inside corner. WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 246

103 INBOARD FLAPS W9: INBOARD FLAPS 13. Fit hinge full length of underside of aft spar using standard procedure. 14. On flap fit gap strip using dome head rivets. GAP STRIP GAP STRIP 15. Fit hinge wire retainer to outboard side mounted as shown here. NOTE HORN IS MOUNTED WITH DOME RIVETS USING PILOT HOLES. SEE DWG FLAP HORN WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 247

104 FLAP CONTROLS CN9: FIT FLAP CONTROLS See Packing List - Controls CN9 - Pg 9 SEE DRAWING For final flap control fitment use standard procedure in mounting rod ends and allowing full movement in all operating positions. Rod end connection to torque arm horn side NOTE: DRILL OUT LOWER HOLE ONLY FOR 1/4 BOLTS THIS ALLOWS APPROX 60 DEGREES FULL FLAP DEFLECTION. With flaps symmetrical and in raised position lock the rod end lock nuts. Make sure rod thread is well inside each end cap,and equal thread length both sides. Finally the rod should be able to rock slightly and allow some radial movement in any operational position. Rod end connection to flap horn side IMPORTANT FLAPS MUST OPERATE SYMMETRICALLY WITH WIRING CONNECTED CYCLE THE FLAPS AND TEST FOR ANY BINDING OR EXCESS MOVEMENT NOTE: A 2.5 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER IS USED IN THE WIRING AND WILL PREVENT ANY ASSYMMETRICAL OPERATION WING Issue 6/2007 Printed Page 248