Ami, the Student; Crochet Doll Pattern

Transcription

1 Ami, the Student; Crochet Doll Pattern size of the doll: ~ 14 cm yarn thickness according to pattern: 2,5-3,5 mm (e.g. Cotone fine) Skill level: intermediate What do you need: - skin-coloured 100% cotton yarn of the thickness above - a bouclé or other type of yarn for the hair (I used the same type as for the body but in brown) - some thin rest yarn of black colour for the eyelashes - some wadding - a wire of thickness 1 mm (and pliers to help shape the wire) - a scissor - safety eyes of 5 mm The doll includes a wire of 2 mm which is the maximum wire thickness you should choose for this pattern as it gets considerably tight around the neck. A wire of 1 mm works great too. When integrating the wire, make sure that you bend all ends of the wire to avoid sharp edges. You work from the bottom to the top in continuous rounds; around the chest area, you pause with the body and crochet the arms with a new yarn in order to be able to integrate the wire into the arms before continuing with the neck and the head. Abbr. used: Rd = round / st, sts = stitch, stitches / sc = single crochet / inc = increase / dec = decrease / sl st = slip stitch

2 Instructions should be read the following way: "inc" = make 2 sc in the next sc "dec" = sc next two sts together "y x 1 sc" = make 1 sc in the next y sc e.g.: inc, 2x 1 sc, dec, 3x 1 sc (8) means: work 2 sc in the first sc, then make 1 sc in the next 2 sts, then sc the next two sts together (4th + 5th), then sc in the remaining sts (you have now got 8 sts) Legs: 1. Rd: start with 4 sc in a magic ring 2. Rd: inc every sc 3. Rd: dec every 3rd sc (crochet 3rd + 4th / 7th + 8th sc together) 4. Rd: dec every 2nd sc 5. Rd: inc, 3x 1 sc (i.e. 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the remaining sts) 6. Rd: inc, 4x 1 sc Rd: sc in each st around 11. Rd: inc, 5x 1 sc 12. Rd: inc, 6x 1 sc 13. Rd: inc, 2x 1 sc, dec, 3x 1 sc 14. Rd: 3x 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1, inc 15. Rd: 1 sc, dec, 8x 1 sc 16. Rd: sc in each st around 17. Rd: 6x 1 sc, inc, 3x 1 sc 18. Rd: 8x 1 sc, inc, 2x 1 sc Rd: sc in each st around; sl st in last st (4) (8) (6) (4) (5) (6) (6) (7) (8) (8) (11) (10) (10) (11) (12) (12) repeat for the second leg. In the last round of the 2nd leg additionally work as follows: chain 2 and sl st in the 5th last sc from the 20.Rd of the 1st leg (i.e. connecting both legs onto 2 chain sts; see Figure 1) Figure 1: connect both legs by chaining 2 sts at the end of the 2nd leg and sc through the 5th-last st of the 1st leg

3 Body (continue...): 21. Rd: 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc (work into the sl st of the leg's last round), 7x 1 sc, sc along the chain sts (2), 7x 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, sc along the chain sts (2) - leave out the transition sts between chain and leg; see Figure 2 (30) 22. Rd: inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 17x 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, dec, 1 sc (35) 23. Rd: dec, 30x 1 sc, dec, 1 sc (33) Figure 2:the right graph illustrates the 21st round - the transition sts between chain and legs are not worked into. The left graph summarizes the pattern design for the 21st to 23rd round 24. Rd: dec, 28x 1 sc, dec, 1 sc (31) 25. Rd: dec, 5x 1 sc, dec, 13x 1 sc, dec, 5x 1 sc, dec (27) 26. Rd: dec, 4x 1 sc, dec, 13x 1 sc, dec, 4x 1 sc (24) Rd: sc in each st around (24) => now, integrate the wire into the legs. Thereby, make the wire as long as the doll (~12 cm), that will stabilize the body; in case you use a wire of 2 mm, stuff the thighs (not the lower legs!) additionally with wadding until it appears thick and tight (Figure 3). With a wire of less than 2 mm, you can lightly stuff the lower legs as well. Figure 3: employing the wire into the legs. As the wire is also used to stabilize the entire body, its length should go appr. up to the head ~ 12 cm

4 29. Rd: dec every 7th sc (3x) (21) 30. Rd: sc in each st around (21) 31. Rd: dec every 6th sc (3x) (18) 32. Rd: 5x 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 x 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 x 1 sc (22) 33. Rd: 6x 2 sc, inc, 5x 1 sc, dec, 5x 1 sc, inc, 2x 1 sc (23) 34. Rd (arms outline): 7x 1 sc, ch 5, connect chain to body by sc into 2nd st (9th when counting from the round beginning), 10x 1 sc, ch 5, sc into 2nd sts, 2x 1 sc; see Figure 4 (33). For thicker arms, chain more than 5 sts. Figure 4: working the arms into the body by chaining 5 sts and leaving out one sc from the base round 35. Rd: sc in each st around including the chain sts but excl. the transition sts (33) 36. Rd: dec every 3rd sc, 1 sc in last st (8x) (25) 37. Rd: dec every 2nd sc, 1 sc in last st (8x) (17) Now, take a new yarn and work the arms as attached to the body; continue with the body after finishing and wiring the arms: left arm: 1. Rd: insert hook in one st before the armpit-stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop. Continue by sc the next two sts together. sc in the remaining 6 sts (7) Figure 5: the arm is a continuance from the body with a new yarn 2. Rd: dec, 5x 1 sc (6) Rd: sc in each st around (6) 10. Rd: dec, 4x 1 sc (5) right arm: 1. Rd: insert hook in one st before the armpit-stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop. Continue by sc the next two sts together. sc in the remaining 6 sts (7) 2. Rd: dec, 5x 1 sc (6) Rd: sc in each st around (6) 10. Rd: 4x 1 sc, dec (5)!! opposite to left arm!! Rd: sc in each st around (5) 15. Rd: inc every st (10) 16. Rd: dec every st and close the arm. Do not stuff the arm with a wadding.

5 Rd: sc in each st around (5) 15. Rd: inc every st (10) 16. Rd: dec every st and close the arm. Do not stuff the arm with a wadding. Weave in the yarn ends. Thereby, close the palm of the doll so that the hand looks thinner, but leave enough space for the wire (i.e. sew on the margin of the palm). Figure 6: the create the look of a [flat] hand, you can sew both sides of the hand together => before continuing with the rest of the body, insert a wire into the arms to that both arms are connected through that new wire. Attach the arms-wire to the wire you used for the legs (and the body). I twisted the armswire to the body-wire to fix them together: Figure 7: the wire for stabilizing both arms should be attached to the wire used for the legs and the body 38. Rd: dec every 2nd sc, 1 sc in last 2 sts (5x) (12) 39. Rd: dec every st (6x) (6) 40. Rd (neck): sc in each st around (6) 41. Rd: inc every st (12) 42. Rd: inc every 2nd st (18) 43. Rd: inc every 3rd st (24) 44. Rd: inc every 4th st (30) Rd: sc in each st around (30)

6 => insert the 5 mm safety eyes between the 48th and 49th rd at 5 sts distance between both eyes. Prior to insertion, you can add the eyelashes. Make sure to add the nose onto the face before stuffing the head! 51. Rd: dec every 4th st (24) 52. Rd: dec every 3rd st (18) 53. Rd: dec every 2nd st (12) => stuff the head with a wadding 54. Rd: dec every st (6) close the head and weave in the yarn end. Ears: Work 4 sc in a magic ring and yarn off. Insert the ears between the 46th and 47th resp. 49th and 50th rd at about 4 sts distance to the eyes The finished body should look something like this: Figure 8: finished body of the amigurumi doll (without hair) Hair: For the hair, I used the same yarn type as for the body; 100% cotton at a recommended hook size of 2,5-3,5. The thicker your yarn is, the more stitches you can cover within a strand of hair while still making it appear dense. If you use a thinner yarn (below 2 mm hook size), I recommend to take 2 yarn strands at once (instead of just 1) and work through all stitches in the upper head area. As for the technique, I worked the hair as follows: Insert the hook into two vertical stitches (i.e. two neighbouring sts alongside a round), yarn over a strand of yarn hair, whereby the strand is of equal length on both sides, pull the yarn through the sts, yarn over again and pull both yarn ends together through the loop. Pull the yarn to make the knot (hairline) firm. Continue until you have got the density you want:

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9 Ami the Student - Clothing Material for the clothing: lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of mm), in brown for the shoes and the knapsack, in beige for the cardigan and the decoration on the knapsack super fine yarn (at a recommended hook size of mm), in dark-blue for the jeans-dress a thin wire (e.g. 0.3 mm) for the glasses Skill level: intermediate Abbreviations: rd = round / sc = single crochet / dc = double crochet / inc = increase / dec = decrease / st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip stitch / ch = chain 9 How to read the instructions: To facilitate the reading, I abbreviate working several consecutive stitches as the number to be crocheted: e.g. 5 sc, inc means that you work a sc in each of the next 5 sts and 2 sc in the 6 th stitch, getting a round of 7 sts. 4 sc, dec means, likewise, working a sc in each of the next 4 sts and then, crocheting the 5 th and 6 th st in a sc together, reducing the round from 6 to 5 sts The Ami-Doll wears a jeans-dress with a long beige cardigan, a brown knapsack with embellishment and brown shoes. Her hair is tied up to the back and she wears black glasses. Checkboxes at each round are designed to help you keep view on your process (in print). PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI AMI THE STUDENT 2017 Trishagurumi All rights reserved. You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products made with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the designer.

10 INSTRUCTIONS CARDIGAN Take a hook size of 2.0 mm for the lace yarn ( mm preferred hook size) to create a casual and holey look. The cardigan is worked in alternating rows of sc and dc. The crochet type is indicated in brackets at the beginning (e.g. 1.Rd (sc), 3.Rd (dc)). Start: chain Rd (sc): 1 sc in each st around starting from the 2 nd st from the hook, turn your work (14) 2. Rd (sc): ch 1, inc every sc (6x), sc the last 2 sts, turn (20) 3. Rd (dc): ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3 sc (3 dc) starting from the 2nd sc st, ch 5 and dc in the 3 rd next sc (arm-outline), continue with dc in the next 8 sc (8 dc), ch 5 again and dc in the 3 rd next sc (arm-outline), 1 dc in the last 3 sts (3 dc) (25) 12. Rd (sc): ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, incl. the ch st at the end (43) 13. Rd (dc): ch 2, 1 dc in each sc starting from the 2 nd sc (42) repeat another time (14.(sc)+15.(dc)) 16. Rd (sc): ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the last ch st and weave in all yarn ends sleeves: Take a new yarn and stitch into the arm-outline from the 3. Rd above (1 st before the transition ch st 1 ). In the first round, each 2 nd st is increased. Make sure to insert the hook where you can then work the increase st in the dc chain stitches to avoid holes in the cardigan (see pic 1 below). 1. Rd: work in sc and inc every st, incl. transition stitch 1, ch Rd: 1 dc in each st around (12) repeat for the other sleeve JEANS-DRESS For the jeans-dress, use a yarn at a recommended hook size of , but take a hook size of 1.0 mm to make the pattern very close meshed. You work in rows. Start: ch Rd: 1 sc in each st around, ch 1 and turn (20) 2. Rd: inc every st, ch 1 and turn (40) 3. Rd: 1 sc in each st around, ch 1 and turn (40) 4. Rd: 2 sc, dec, 1 sc; then ch 5 and sc through the 9 th next st (arm-outline). Work another 12 sc. Again, ch 5 and sc through the 9 th next st (arm-outline). Mirror the beginning by working 1 sc, dec the next st and working another 2 sc. Ch 1 and turn (32, incl. transition sts) Rd (sc): ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. At the end, sc in the 2 nd ch st which you started the previous round with (26) 5. Rd (dc): ch 2, 1 dc in each sc starting from the 2 nd sc (25) 6. Rd (sc): ch 1, inc every 5 th st. Don t forget to take the ch st from the previous [5.] rd as your last st (31) 7. Rd (dc): ch 2, 1 dc in each sc starting from the 2 nd sc (30) 8. Rd (sc): ch 1, inc every 5 th st. (36) 9. Rd (dc): ch 2, 1 dc in each sc starting from the 2 nd sc (36) 10. Rd (sc): ch 1, inc every 6 th st (42) 11. Rd (dc): ch 2, 1 dc in each sc starting from the 2 nd sc (42) 1 The transition stitch refers to the connection stitch where the chain stitches for the arm-outline are connected back to the round through a sc 5. Rd: 1 sc in each st around, ch 1 and turn (32) 6. Rd: inc on the ends and work 30 sc in-between, ch 1 and turn (34) 7. Rd: 1 sc in each st around, ch 1 and turn (34) 8. Rd: inc on the ends and work 32 sc in-between, ch 1 and turn (36) 9. Rd: 1 sc in each st around, ch 2 and turn (36). 10. Rd (dc): you now continue with dc-rounds; inc on both ends and work 34 sts in-between, ch 2 and turn (38) Rd (dc): 1 dc in each dc around, ch 2 and turn (38) Connect the rows and work now in continuous rounds! 13. Rd (dc): inc every 9 th dc, dc the remaining sts (42) Rd (dc): 1 dc in each dc around (42) 19. Rd (sc): 1 sc in each st around (42)

11 Weave in both yarn ends. Take a new yarn and sew the dress on the body together. Thereby, always go with the needle from down to top to create a smooth closure. KNAPSACK The knapsack is worked with a brown lace yarn in four parts: Leave enough yarn end to sew both sides (b) together to the ground (a). Thereby, put the sides with the clear pattern together so that you work on the backside of the parts (s.pic 1+2). When finished, evert your progress. Put the beginning yarn of b) (or a new yarn, as you prefer) at the top of the bag through a few stitches in order to close the bag (see last pic). the ground the side the cover 2x straps a) the ground (worked in continuous rounds) 11 Start: ch Rd: 1 sc in the first 8 sts, starting with the 2 nd st from the hook. Work 4 sc in the last st, turn your work and continue on the other side with 1 sc in the next 7 sts. In the last st (8 th ) work again 4 sc (22) 2. Rd: 1 sc in the first 10 sc, work 2 sc in the next 2 sts (2x inc). 1 sc in the next 8 sts and 2 sc in the last two sts (2x inc). Sl st the last st. (26) Weave in both yarn ends. b) the side (worked in rows) Take a new yarn and ch Rd: 1 sc in each st, starting with the 2 nd ch st from the hook (10) 2. Rd: ch 2 and dc in each sc around (leave out the first sc st) repeat 1.(sc) and 2.(dc) 9-times (that are 18 more rounds with alternating sc and dc. Work similar to the cardigan) c) the cover (worked in rows) Take a new yarn and ch 6. Leave enough yarn beginning to sew the cover to the top of the side (b). 1. Rd: starting with the 2 nd ch st from the hook, work 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 3 sts, and 2 sc in the last sc, ch 1 and turn your work (7) 2. Rd: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1 and turn (9) Rd: 1 sc in each st around (9) 7. Rd: sc the first 2 sts together (i.e. sc 1 st and 2 nd sc together), 1 sc in the next 5 sts, sc the last 2 sts together, ch 1 and turn (7) 8. Rd: sc the first 2 sts together, 1 sc in the next 3 sts, sc the last 2 sts together, ch 1 and turn (5)

12 9. Rd: like in the previous two rounds, dec once the first SHOES Use a brown lace yarn and a hook size of 1.0 mm for the shoes. GLASSES: and the last st, 1 sc in between (3) 10. Rd: dec once, 1 sc rest Weave in the yarn end and use the beginning yarn to connect the cover to the side. d) the straps (2x) Start: ch 2 In each round, work 1 sc, ch 1 and turn your work. Repeat until you ve reached the desired length of your first strap. Repeat for the second strap. Start: ch 8 1. Rd: 6 sc, 4 sc in the last st (2x inc). Continue on the other side of the ch: 5 sc and 2 sc in the last st (inc) (17) 2. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (17) 3. Rd: 8 sc, dec by sc next two sts together, 7 sc (16) 4. Rd: 4 sc, sl st in the next 10 sts, 2 sc (16) You shift now to rows for the back of the shoe: 5. Rd: 4 sc, ch 1 and turn 6. Rd: 6 sc, ch 6. Put the shoe onto the doll s foot (don t forget to weave in the beginning yarn end) and connect the ch sts with the other side of the round to secure the shoe on the foot (see picture). Repeat for the second shoe. For the glasses take a thin wire (e.g. 0.3 mm) and a whiteboardmarker (or any round marker that has about the radius of your forefinger). Wrap the wire about 4x around the marker for both sides of the glasses (as your lenses, see 1 st pic), leave about 0.8 cm space in between and about 6 cm for the sides (temple arms). Then, wrap each of the temple-wires around the lenses (see 2 nd pic) so that they begin and end approximately at the upper halflevel of each side (3 rd pic). Take a new piece of wire and wrap at appr. 0.8 cm length a bridge between the lenses (3 rd pic) that you then twist several times to make the bridge look stable (final pic). 12 With the beige lace yarn give the knapsack some preferred embellishments. I added lines on the cover and the straps.