Figure 10-1 Weaving. Warp Cross Section Woven Fabrics

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3 Figure 10-1 Weaving Warp Cross Section 10-2 Woven Fabrics

4 Basic Functions Of A loom Or Weaving Machine Warp and Filling I W~~mFabrlcs 10-5

5 Flow Of Yarn On A Loom Warp Beam Back Rest (Breast Beam) Drop Wires Harness and Heddles Reed ClothFell FabricRoll I W /- warp 104 Woven Fa-

6 Figure 10-2 Shedding Formation n W~~mFabrlcs 10-5

7 Shedding Motion Definition Shedding is a function of weaving involving the lifting of harnesses containing warp ends in order to provide a shed opening for filling insertion and to control design. Types Of Shedding Cam Shedding - Employs circular profiled cams to lift the harnesses - Usually 6-8 hamesses.- Plain, simple twill and satin weaves - High loom speeds - Lifting plan relatively easy to change Dobby Shedding - Employs a chain of wooden bars with pegs inserted or plastic paper with holes inserted or computer controls - Usually 8-24 harnesses - More complex twill and satin weaves - Small geometric figures and spot weaves - Pattern stripes - Slower loom speeds than cam shedding - Lifting plan more dimcult to change 10-6 Woven Fabrlcs

8 Jacquard Shedding - Employs cardboard cards with holes inserted, plastic paper with holes, or computer controls - Individual warp ends or groups of warp ends are lifted without the use of harnesses - Design capability is virtually unlimited - Can produce very large design repeats - Slowest loom speeds - More expensive fabrics W O V Fabrtcs ~ 10-7

9 Water Projectile Rapier i;-j $2 P Lp, ; '\ I Other '*, Filling Insertion Rate 10-8 Woven Fabrlcs

10 Woven Fabric Production Running Time Efficiency (Em = Running Time + Down Time Pick Densitv The number of picks required per unit length of fabric. PicWinch (ppi) Loom Speed?;he number of picks inserted into the fabric per unit time. PicWminute (ppm) Fabric Production = pickdminute picwinch X = linear yards of fabrichour minuteshour x EFF inchedyard _- WOVWIF~~W 10-9

11 I Figure 10-3 Rapier Systems Head single RUM Rapier Giver Taker Double Flex Rapiers WOVWI Fabh

12 Figure 10-4 Rapier Filling Insertion System Woven Fabrlcs

13 Figure 10-5 Projectile Filling Insertion System _ woven Fabrlcs

14 Figure 10-6 Air-Jet Filling Insertion Systems -- WovenFaklcs 10-13

15 Figure 10-7 Air-Jet Filling Insertion: Schematic Representation of the Pick Insertion Sequence Woven Fabrlcs

16 Beat-Up Motion Functions of the reed - Keep ends parallel and in the same position - Beat the filling yarn into the fabric - Provide some control for filling insertion Note: Reed No. = Enddinch Endddent Implications of increased beat-up - Filling density - Warp tension - Noise and vibration - Fabric structure and properties Woven Faklcs 10-15

17 Figure 10-8 Beat - Up W O V FabtlCS ~

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19 Warp Control Let-off - Controls rate of yarn removal from the warp beam - Controls tension of warp ends Take-up - Controls pick spacing and rate the fabric is delivered from the loom - Must be synchronized with the Let-Off for proper yam tension control during weaving Woven Fabrlcs

20 Woven Fabric Design I. Fabric Constntction Factors The following factors show the detailed information that is necessary in producing a woven fabric for a specified end use. k TypeofFiber 1. Natural 2. Man-made B. Type ofyarn 1. count 2. Structure 3. Twist 4. Color C. Fabric Set (Construction) 1. Fabric count 2. Yarn count (warp and filling) 3. Cover 4. Fabricwidth 5. Fabric weight D. Yarn Arrangement in Fabric 1. Denting: regular or irregular 2. Type of yam: same or different for warp and filling 3. Warp beams: one or more with same or Merent tensions E. Weaving 1. Design a. Weave b. DraRplan c. Camplan Woven Fabrics 10-19

21 2. Type of loom 3. Special loom requirements F. Surface Alteration (Finishing) 1. Printing 2. Chemical treatment 3. Mechanical treatment 4. Coating II, Basic Weaves A. Plain Weave and Its Derivatives 1. Warp rib weave 2. Filling rib weave 3. Basket weave B. Twill C. Satin I& Weave Variations are Produced By A. Different ply, count or texture of yarns B. Equal or unequal size and count for warp nd filling C. Equal or unequal yam count for warp and filling D. Equal yam size and unequal or dented spacing E. Equal yam count for warp and filling and unequal yam size -. F. Interlacing different patterns and weave effects G. Interlacing different colored yarns woven Fabrics

22 EZenents of the Weave A Risers and sinkers B. Binding points C. Floats D. Intersections - V. Use of Design Paper A Graphically shows the interlacing of warp and filling yarns 1. Vertical row of squares represents a warp end. 2. Horizontal row of squares represents a pick. B. Interpretation of design on paper 1. End over pick 2. Pick over end C. Repeat of a weave woven Fabrlcz, 10-21

23 .I ~ Figure 10-9 Fabric Weaves I I I I I 1 1 I I 1 I I I II I I I I I I I I, - I I II I I I I 1 II, 10-a WovenFabrlcs

24 U U WovenFabrlcs 10-23

25 Figure 1040 Twill Weaves L W O V FabrlCS ~

26 Figure Basket Weave and Twill Weaves Woven FaMa 10-25

27 Figure Twill Weaves 3/1 RH.MI 41 R.H.MiQ W O V FabIkS ~

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29 Figure Warp Satin And Filling Satin (Sateen) W O V FabrfCS ~

30 Pumose Fabric Grading ClassLfy fabric according to quality, first quality, second quality, etc. Supply information to management as to the qualities being produced. Fabric Qual it? Physical Properties - Specification Material Defects WovenFabrlcs 10-29

31 I Physical Properties o Weight 0 Construction 0 Strength - tensile and tear 0 Abrasion resistance and pilling 0 Dimensional stability (heat, washing, dry cleaning) Appearance &r washing Fastness (wash, light, gas) L- Stiffness and drape (handle) Sewability (seam strength and resistance to slippage) WOV- FabkS

32 Fabric Defects Warn Imnerfections Broken or Missing End Coarse End Slubs Streaks Uneven Yam Uneven Weaving Reed Marks Misdraw Slack End Others Filling Imnerfections Broken Pick Missing Pick Coarse Pick Slubs Streaks Mixed Filling, Barr6 Bar (start up, thick, thin) Jerk - Ins (slough-off) Kinky Filling Bias, Bowed, Skewed Filling Others W O V Fabtic~ ~ 10-31

33 Fabric Structure vs. Fabric Expectations Types of fibers or yarns, method of fabric construction and finishes applied interrelate in the production of a fabric. When one of these components is changed, the fabric will change and will affect the fabrics. 0 Weight Hand 0 Drapability Performance Expectations 0 Appearance m Covering Power SurfaceTexture Thickness Luster Strength Flexibility Resiliency Warmth 0 Affbity to Dyestuff EndUse cost These are basic inherent properties to be found in a given fiber, yam, finish, and fabric construction. One or more of these properties may be modified or altered to achieve the desired results for a fabric applicable to a particular end use or design.

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