1x1 purl, T purl: 1x1 purl. 1x1 rib, T rib: 1x1 rib. 1x2 purl, T purl: 1x2 purl.

Transcription

1 O OE rotor yarn, (Synonym: rotor yarn), openend yarn produced on an OE rotor spinning machine. During production, there is no connection between the sliver and the T yarn to be produced. Relatively coarse yarns with a yarn count of up to Nm 80 are produced. The fibres in OE rotor yarns run less parallel to the yarn axis than in T ringspun yarns, where more T fibres are required in the yarn cross-section for the same strength. Rotor yarns are yarns with core twist and therefore the stability of the yarn is greater inside than outside. OE rotor yarn has high abrasion resistance and relatively low T hairiness. It is recognizable by so-called belly bands which are created by long fibres wrapping themselves directly around the yarn. In comparison to ring-spun yarns, OE rotor yarns are stiffer, leading to a harder T handle of the knitted fabrics. a b 1x2 purl Offset, information included in notations which indicates that combinations of structural elements, such as T tuck stitches or T float stitches are staggered vertically in relation to each other. Examples of this are illustrated in T single-face: float stitch single jersey, T single-face: Fred Perry and T single-face: single jersey fleece. Offset pillar stitch lapping, type of T pillar stitch lapping in T warp knits. It can be carried out with open or closed laps. It is produced on single needle bar or double needle bar T warp knitting machines. Old knitted loop, the T knitted loop formed in the previous knitting cycle, which is still present on the T needle. 1x1 purl, T purl: 1x1 purl. 1x1 rib, T rib: 1x1 rib. 1x2 purl, T purl: 1x2 purl. c Offset pillar stitch lapping a) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1/1-2// b) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/2-3/3-2/2-3/3-2// c) Double-face: / // 145

2 Open atlas lapping Open atlas lapping, type of T atlas lapping in T warp knits with T open knitted loops and usually T closed knitted loops in the T change of direction courses. Open back-lapped atlas lapping, type of T atlas lapping in T warp knits with T open knitted loops and T closed knitted Open atlas lapping, 4-course with closed change of direction courses (loop structure) Open back-lapped atlas lapping, 3-course with closed change of direction courses (loop structure) Open atlas lapping, 4-course with closed change of direction courses (lapping diagram) Single-face: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1// Open back-lapped atlas, T single face: open back-lapped double atlas Open back-lapped atlas lapping, 3-course with closed change of direction courses (lapping diagram) Single-face: 1-0/2-3/4-5/6-7/5-4/3-2// 146

3 Open satin lapping loops in the T change of direction courses and T underlaps under two T needles. Open cord lapping, type of T cord lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping under two T needles, resulting in T open knitted loops. a Open knitted loops a) Symmetrical open knitted loop b) Unsymmetrical open knitted loop b sinker loop (produced by T underlapping). Open cord lapping (loop structure) Open pile, T pile. Open pillar stitch lapping, type of T pillar stitch lapping in T warp knits with T open knitted loops Open cord lapping (lapping diagram) Single-face: 0-1/3-2// Opening, T open-work. Open-knit fabric, (Synonym: net-type fabric), T open-work structure. Open knitted loop, T knitted loop in which the T limbs of the loop are parallel. T Weft knitted fabrics consist almost exclusively of open loops. In T warp knits, where loops are referred to as laps, open laps are created when the direction of one T sinker loop (produced by T overlapping) is the same as the subsequent Open pillar stitch lapping (loop structure) Courtesy of: [KMO] Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle overlap, type of T two-needle overlap in T warp knits. It results in T open knitted loops formed by two T needles. Open satin lapping, type of T satin lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping under three T needles, resulting in T open knitted loops. 147

4 Open-stem slide needle Open-stem slide needle, design of T compound needle in which the T tongue 0 1 Open pillar stitch lapping (lapping diagram) Single-face: 0-1/1-0// Open satin lapping (loop structure) Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle overlap (loop structure) Open satin lapping (lapping diagram) Single-face: 0-1/4-3// slides into a groove on the T needle stem. Previously, tubular pipe needles were used instead of open-stem slide needles. Open tricot lapping, type of T tricot lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping under one T needle, resulting in T open knitted loops Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle overlap (lapping diagram) Single-face: 0-2/2-0// Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap, type of T two-needle overlap in T warp knits. It results in T open knitted loops formed by two T needles. Open velvet lapping, type of T velvet lapping in T warp knits with T underlapping under four or more T needles, resulting in T open knitted loops. 148

5 Open-width device Open tricot lapping (loop structure) Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap (lapping diagram). Single-face: 0-2/3-1// Open tricot lapping (lapping diagram) Single-face: 0-1/2-1// Open velvet lapping under 4 needles (loop structure) Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap (loop structure) Open velvet lapping under 4 needles (lapping diagram). Single-face: 0-1/5-4// 149

6 P Parallel weft insertion, method of inserting T weft threads as a T yarn sheet on certain T stitch-bonding machines in which the weft threads are at 90 to the processing direction. To achieve this, the speeds of the T weft carriage and the side-mounted T conveyor chains must be synchronized. The weft threads are delivered to the knitting point individually and the yarns are stitched T in line with the stitch courses. Partially fashioned piece, type of T shaping. Knitted piece with a welt and selvedges created by T widening. It is not possible to carry out T narrowing by interlacing the T selvedge stitches. The T working width can be decreased by T pressing off T knitted loops in staggered T press-off shaping. Cutting is required. pressing off knitted loops widening Sleeve as a partially fashioned piece, weft knitted on a flat knitting machine Pattern bar (PB) Part-set threaded warp inlay, term for a T lapping movement which is carried out by a guide bar, in which yarns are only threaded over a certain part of the T working width, as with T selvedge yarns and reinforcement yarns. Part-set threading, (Synonym: patterned threading), yarns are only threaded into some of the yarn guides of the T guide bars of a T warp knitting machine, usually in a repeating sequence, such as 1 threaded yarn guide (in) and 1 yarn guide with no thread (out), i.e. 1 in/1 out. Partset threading is used for surface designs or for open-work structures ( T lace). If two guide bars knitting together are partially threaded and complement each other to make one full-set threading, this is called T half-set threading. Patent needle, T carbine needle. Pattern, 1. The result of material, colour or structural design or ornamentation on a knitted fabric. The pattern can be created during production of the knitted fabric, during finishing, e.g. by printing, or during making-up. Patterns are often based on a T construction and are created by using yarns of different colours, finenesses or structures and/or by combining different constructions. The T pattern repeat is usually larger than the T knitting repeat. 2. In English, the pattern can refer to the T knitting notation. Pattern bar (PB), T guide bar on T warp knitting machines, onto which T pattern yarn guides are mounted. These are attached to the guide bar according to the pattern at relatively long, sometimes uneven intervals. Pattern bars T lay in yarns as warp inlays with large repeats. To drive the pattern bars, T pattern chains with special chain links, T summary drives or T string bars are used. 151

7 Pattern chain GB1 GB2 GB3 Warp knit with surface design by part-set threading of the two front guide bars; tricot/satin lapping in opposite directions over tricot, closed (continued overleaf) Single-face: GB1: (3-4/1-0)x4/(2-3/2-1)x2// GB2: (2-3/2-1)x4(3-4/1-0)x2// GB3: (1-2/1-0)x6// Threading: GB1 8 in/4 out//, GB2 8 out/4 in//, GB3 fully threaded Pattern chain, sequence of moving metal chain links which are joined one inside the other or with hinges, and form a circle and are used to drive the T guide bars on T warp knitting machine. The individual chain links are of different heights. The difference in height between two adjacent chain links determines the size of the lateral shogging movement of the guide bar. Pattern chain link, (Synonym: chain link), piece of a T pattern chain with a certain height and a certain length. Depending on its height, the chain links are numbered as 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 etc. The number indicates by how many needle spacings the guide bar should be shogged. The heights of the chain links must be appropriate for the T needle pitch of the machine. According to a b c d Chain links as elements of pattern chains a) A-link (with no chamfering) b) B-link (chamfered at the front) c) C-link (chamfered at the back) d) D-link (chamfered at both ends) Courtesy of: [Liba] 152

8 Pattern disc Warp knit with surface design by part-set threading of the two front guide bars; tricot/satin lapping in opposite directions over tricot, closed (continued overleaf) Single-face: GB1: (3-4/1-0)x4/(2-3/2-1)x2// GB2: (2-3/2-1)x4(3-4/1-0)x2// GB3: (1-2/1-0)x6// Threading: GB1 8 in/4 out//, GB2 8 out/4 in//, GB3 fully threaded the length of the chain link, a distinction is made between T standard chain links (Ntype), normally for T tricot warp knitting machines and T long chain links (E-type) for T raschel warp knitting machines. Pattern chain tensioner, device on T warp knitting machines for guiding and tensioning long T pattern chains for warp knits with relatively large T repeats in the course direction. Chain tensioners have now been replaced by T electronic guide bar control, which is more reliable, guarantees more precise shogging and enables patterns to be changed more quickly and easily. Pattern course, part of a T stitch course in multi-coloured Jacquard patterns or in T double knit courses. In Jacquard patterns the T stitch courses are formed from two, three or four different coloured T yarns. Two, three or four knitting cycles (pattern courses) are required to knit one T stitch course. Pattern disc, T cam disc for driving the T ground bars on T warp knitting machines with regard to the lateral shogging movement ( T guide bar shogging). The front surface of the pattern disc is curved and is felt by a roller. The number of shogging movements stored on the circumference of the cam disc influences the T pattern repeat. During one revolution of the pattern disc, for example, 8, 10, 12 or 16 stitch courses are knitted. The maximum possible course repeat on the pat- 153

9 Pattern drum tern disc is limited. Pattern discs are produced for a particular T needle pitch and T lapping movement and are normally limited to a particular guide bar position (e.g. for GB 1). Their curved polished surface enables quiet machine operation, optimum shogging distances and therefore maximum T machine speeds. Pattern disc for the back guide bar of a tricot warp knitting machine with a machine gauge of E 28, closed tricot lapping 1-0/1-2//, 16 knitting cycles, 3 links per course. Courtesy of: [Liba] Pattern drum, cylindrical holder of data storage devices for controlling the shogging movement of T guide bars on T warp knitting machines. The T pattern chains are inserted into the tracks of the pattern disc. The circumference of the drum, in conjunction with the type of chain link, determines the maximum possible course repeat. The repeat can be extended by fitting a pattern chain tensioner. Patterned threading, T part-set threading. Patterning, 1. Process of creating a T pattern. 2. Overall effect of a pattern. Patterning device, drive for controlling the lateral shogging movement of the T M guide bars on T warp knitting machines. For each guide bar, there is a data carrier ( T pattern chain or T pattern disc). These are combined together onto one T pattern drum (single-drum drive) and driven by the T transmission shaft. The transmission ratio ( T links per course) between the transmission shaft and the patterning device determines the number of chain links or the length of the region on the drive surface of the T pattern disc, which is available for one knitting cycle. If all guide bars operate at the same rate, a single-drum drive is used, either an N-patterning device (with T standard chain links) or an E patterning device (with elongated chain links). There are also two-drum drives (NE pattern device or EH pattern device) when guide bars operate with different numbers of links per course. Different data carriers can be combined, e.g. pattern discs for the T ground bars and pattern chains for the T pattern bars. pattern chain pattern disc Patterning device to control the lateral shogging movement of the guide bars on warp knitting machines with a pattern chain or pattern disc as the data carrier. Courtesy of: [KMO] Patterning unit, normally computer-aided unit for creating and preparing T patterns. A patterning unit can belong to one 154

10 Pelerine point knitting machine or several machines can be networked to a patterning unit. Pattern presser, working element at the knitting point of T straight-bar knitting machines or T warp knitting machines with T bearded needles. In contrast to the presser, the pattern presser is designed so that it either presses or skips (does not press) needles. This produces T tuck stitch patterns. Pattern repeat, repeating unit of a T pattern in a knitted fabric, normally relating to the colour design, such as striped or checked patterns. In T weft knitted fabrics, the pattern repeat is largely determined by the choice of yarn carrier and in T warp knits by the colour sequence of the T threading, e.g. 10A, 6B, 12C. Pattern unit, T stitch. pattern yarn guide Pattern yarn guide on a raschel warp knitting machine Pearl lace, T single-face: pearl lace. Pea tulle, relatively coarse T honeycomb tulle with up to 30 T holes per inch and hexagonal, almost circular openings. Pea tulle is a T bobbinet tulle. Pattern yarn, yarn which is processed in addition to one or more T ground yarns and normally appears on the T effect side of the knitted fabric (e.g. T embroidery plating on weft knitted fabrics). In warp knitted fabrics, pattern yarns are normally T laid in as warp inlays or bound into the knitted ground as loops ( T fall plate patterns), in which the yarn density of the pattern yarns is lower than the yarn density of the ground yarns. The pattern yarns are fed via pattern warp beams and T pattern yarn guides. Pattern yarn guide, working element for guiding yarns on T warp knitting machines which are laid into the knitted ground as pattern yarns. Pattern yarn guides are screwed onto the T pattern bar at certain intervals. Several pattern yarn guides can operate in one T shogging line if required. PB, abbreviation of T pattern bar. Pea tulle produced on a bobbinet machine Courtesy of: [Götz/Hennig, 1960] Pelerine point, working element at the knitting point of T sinker wheel knitting 155