Rumney Models 4mm Scale BR Grampus Detailing

Transcription

1 Rumney Models 4mm Scale BR Grampus Detailing Notes This set of instructions covers Rumney Models kit B.109. This set of etches is designed to provide new baskets and detailing for the Parkside Dundas BR Grampus wagon. The plastic wagons can be assembled before fitting the detailing parts though it is worth remembering that working on the solebars themselves, when drilling holes for the door springs, is much easier before fitting the solebars to the wagon. I am a big fan of pinned joints between small metal and plastic parts as the joints are hopelessly vulnerable otherwise, hence why there are holes in the door springs rather than half etched circles for push out rivets. I would suggest assembling the basic kit whilst leaving off any detailing parts that are included in these etches or can be fitted at a later point and leaving the solebars off until work has started on the etched components. Also note that the baskets are designed to pin to the plastic framing in the Parkside kit which will need to be used. Broadly the instructions come in two parts. The first deals with construction of the baskets and the second the rest of the detailing components. Construction Notes Read through the instructions first and familiarise yourself with the components. Drawings and photographs are included to attempt to make my waffle clearer. All fold lines are through 90 with the fold line on the inside unless stated otherwise. Check all holes before removing parts from the fret. The drawing process for etching if you use a CAD program as I do is extremely accurate but the actual etching process itself not an exact science. If the fret is slightly over etched then there is no problem but if they are under etched the holes will need enlarging. I find that this is easiest to do before removing parts from the fret. The hole sizes will be noted at the appropriate points. Materials list A couple of different sizes of wire are needed to build the items on the fret. Eileen s Emporium are good source for these and they do a mixed sizes pack if you don t want to buy large quantities. Contact details can be found below. 0.31mm - Baskets, Corner steps 0.4mm - Door springs Eileen s Emporium Unit Highnam Business Centre Newent Road Gloucester GL2 8DN UK

2 Parts List A - Grampus baskets (nickel silver etch) 1 - Basket drilling jig 2 - Basket outer end stop 3 - Basket inner end fill 4a - Solebar door springs (main type) 4b - Solebar door springs (brake lever) 5 - Body side door springs 6a - Corner step 6b - Corner step angle There are two other drilling jigs on the fret. The area shaded yellow on the parts diagram below is the drilling jig for the solebar and body side door springs and the one coloured green is the drilling jig for the corner steps. Baskets The baskets are designed to be a simple fold up affair. They are etches in a thicker material than the rest to try and give a better impression of the construction of the real thing. They are designed to be pinned to the Parkside underframe, though they can be simply glued on if you want. If you just want to glue them on then remove the baskets (A) from the fret and fold along the green lines in Fig. 1. Note that not all folds are on the same side and all the folds should be through 90 with the fold lines on the inside. If you intend to pin them in place firstly drill out the holes on the baskets (A) 0.3mm, see Fig.1. Then remove the baskets from the fret and fold along the green lines in Fig. 1. Note that not all folds are on the same side and all the folds should be through 90 with the fold lines on the inside. Remove the basket drilling jig from the fret and place onto a scrap piece of wood or mdf. Orientate the jig as per Fig.2 and drill 0.3mm holes into the wood. Pin the basket onto the wood using 0.31mm wire and solder the wire pins in place. These can then be trimmed to represent bolt heads.

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4 Basket viewed from outer end and showing the basket outer end stop (2) Solder in place the basket outer end stop (2), this goes into the slot at one end of the basket. Use the picture above for reference. The basket inner end fill (3) can also be soldered in place if required. This is one of those things that seemed like a good idea on the drawing board but extremely fiddly in real life. I left mine off. Use the picture below as a guide. Basket viewed from the inside and showing the basket inner end fill (3) The basket is now ready to be fixed to the underframe. The best time to use this is before the wheels are put into the wagon but after the basic model with trussing and headstocks have been assembled. Place the basket drilling jig on the underframe using Fig. 2 as a guide and drill holes into the plastic underframe trussing to receive the pins soldered to the baskets. Even if you are just gluing the baskets in place this is a good idea as it will give you accurate location points for the feet on the baskets. Glue the baskets in place.

5 Door Springs Three types of door spring are included on the fret. There are two types that attach to the solebar (4a and 4b), one of which goes over the brake lever (4b), and a body side door spring (5). Solebar door spring (main type) (4a) Solebar door spring (brake lever) (4b) Body side door spring (5 It is best, if possible, to drill the receiving holes in the solebar before fitting them to the wagon. A drilling jig is included on the fret. This is the part in yellow on the parts diagram and folds up so that it fits neatly into the solebar and should give you enough tail to hold whilst drilling. While you are drilling holes in the solebar, drill a pair of holes into a scrap piece of wood so you can use them to solder lengths of 0.4mm wire to the door springs before fitting in place. Note that the solebar door springs should line up with the door hinges on the body. Once pins have been attached fold up the door springs as per the photos above. Some half etched fold lines have been included to aid with bending them up. Use the same jig to drill holes into the body for the body side door springs (5). I rested the part with the two holes in against the body where the door springs go and pushed the folded part up against the bottom of the body. Note that the centre line of the door springs should correspond with the centre line of the door hinges.

6 Steps The steps are attached to the headstock by angle and to try and replicate this, the etched version comes in two parts. There is the corner step (6a) and the corner step angle (6b). Part 6a is obviously the important one and the angle part can be left off if you think it s too fiddly. Fig. 3 and the photo below give a good idea of the overall arrangement. The parts are designed to be pinned to the headstock and a drilling jig is included to aid with this. This is the part coloured green on the parts diagram. To construct the step fold up the three sides around the step and then fold this back on the part that makes up the front of the angle. There is also a fold line in this part which should be folded through 90 with the fold line on the inside and goes up against the back of the step. This can then all be soldered together. If you want to make use of the corner step angle I think the best way to assemble the two parts is to use the drilling jig to drill four holes into a scrap piece of wood or mdf, fit the assembled corner step into the left hand pair of holes, pin the corner step angle into the right hand pair of holes using 0.31mm wire and solder together. The wire can then be tidied up to represent bolt heads.

7 Use the drilling jig to drill four holes into the headstock between the iron work and buffer as shown in the picture and glue the assembled step into place. Finally thanks must go to Tom Silsbury for the assistance he has provided in producing this kit and also for the prototype photographs that accompany this set of instructions. These are used with permission and the copyright for them resides with Tom. Thanks also must go to Jim Smith- Wright who built the test etch and provided some useful feedback. Justin Newitt - September 2017