Ford in dash cd changer fix by Radmacks

Transcription

1 Ford in dash cd changer fix by Radmacks Disclaimer: This tutorial is provided for informational purposes only. I take no responsibility for anything you break, damage, set on fire, or anybody you tell to f$#k off out of frustration during this process. I m far from a scholar so easy on the grading. Feel free to share and repost this as much as you like anywhere you like just keep the props to me and the brotherhood at If after you have read this fully and have a question, comment, suggestion or even a paypal donation feel free to radmacks@hotmail.com Purpose: This tutorial is to guide the average Joe in repairing their Ford factory in dash cd player/changer that is suffering from the common No CD, Full CD, CD Error and other variants. Or if your cds are trapped and you just want them back without them being scratched. It should be noted that most errors can be cleared by disconnecting the deck from power and hooking it back up and allowing it to re-calibrate. Try this first. However if after trying this first and you still have the error then this fix is probably for you. When you power on your deck listen for the sound it makes. If it sounds like a motor is spinning but nothing else is moving then this fix is for you. Required tools: A metal coat hanger cut in two and bent in half or Ford Factory stereo removal tools. Torx 10 T10 screw driver 000 Phillips (star) and 0 or 1 Phillips (star) screwdrivers Bottle of your favourite beverage to celebrate with after Needle Nose pliers Optional First start by removing the stereo, remove terminal (blah blah blah Insert safety here). Take your two pieces of coat hanger (or ford removal tool) and bend them into a U shape you will be inserting these into the 4 holes on the front of the deck and pressing outward to the sides towards the doors. There are two clips on each side that need to be pressed in before the deck can be removed. Then pull the deck forward. Disconnect the wires and antenna and bring the deck to your work space; See pic below

2 Next you re going to open the deck. Use a T10 and remove the screws circled in red in the pictures below. It s a good idea to layout everything left to right then you can reassemble right to left. Bottom side of the deck: 2 T10 screws circled in red. Push on the silver metal tabs and then pull up on the black plastic to remove the face.

3 Top side of the deck. Remove the 2 T10 screws and push in the silver tabs to remove the faceplate. Once the face is separated there will be two small wires near the bottom right corner. The can be separated from the face by gently pulling on the wires. Take note of the orientation. Although the wires only plug in one way they could be forced. Next remove the 4 T10 screws 2 on each side of the deck. This will allow you to separate the changer from the radio.

4

5 You can now separate the deck into two by lifting up on the back of the cd unit. Note you will have to remove the ribbon cable. The ribbon cable is held in by a plastic tab that can be pulled up and then the cable removed

6

7 Next you re going to remove 6 Phillips (star) screws from the sides and the back to remove the top cover

8 Side

9 Note at this point if you just want to remove your trapped cds and throw the deck in the garbage this is the point to do it. The trays will just lift out removing your cds without scratching them. If you want to fix it keep reading. Below is what you should have at this point Back

10 Next you have to remove the unit from the shock cage. The easiest way I found was to remove the below circled in red 000 Phillips screws. On the one side the brackets holding the rubber boot separates from the deck. On the other side you will have to remove the cap by removing the screw, pulling the cap back and then twist it to remove it from the locking tab. Then you push the rubber through the whole and the cd unit will be free from the shock cage exposing the bottom of the cd unit.

11 Caps that need to be removed and then the rubber shock mounts pushed through

12 On this side the bracket can be removed by un doing the one screw Same for this side just undue the 2 screws and detach the bracket Now once you have the drive separated from the shock cage flip it over and you can inspect the board. In my case only one of the white plastic gears had fallen out, out of the two trouble makers. When I took mine apart there was no rattling and nothing fell out I was concerned that the gear had fallen out previous which is impossible as it has to be in there somewhere. After inspecting the table and the floor and could not find the gear. I then closely looked at the board and found that it had stuck to the board as it was still covered in lithium grease. I did not take a picture of the gear itself but use your imagination it looks like a little white screw with no head. I reinserted the screw and covered the holes with electrical table. I have seen glue suggested but the gear has to spin freely so I don t recommend it. Below is a picture of the locations of the 2 gears that fall out.

13

14 Reassemble the deck backwards and you should be good to go and now have a fully working deck. Note when you first plug the deck in it will take about a full minute to calibrate for a 6 disc changer.