Antique Wood Effect Range Guide. Transform your home the easy way with ukhomeinteriors.co.uk

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1 Antique Wood Effect Range Guide Transform your home the easy way with ukhomeinteriors.co.uk 1

2 Antique beams and oak timbers could transform your home. Now that transformation can be achieved in a fraction of the time and at a fraction of the cost of original oak, without losing any of the beauty and intricate detail of hand worked, antique timbers. Our range is made from modern materials in moulds taken from carefully selected original oak timbers. Every detail is preserved. Every piece is finished by hand. They not only look authentic but sound and feel authentic, too. Unlike oak though, our products are lightweight and easy to cut. This means that installation can be achieved with relative ease. Transform your home the easy way, with ukhomeinteriors. 2 3

3 Moulded from original antique oak beams. Handfinished in a variety of finish options. Main Beam 1 beams Main Beams Our most popular main beam, available in 4 lengths, all with a beautifully gnarled appearance. Length: 5460mm (full length) 3660mm ( 2 / 3 length) 2730mm ( 1 / 2 length) 1800mm ( 1 / 3 length) Width: 170mm Depth: 260mm (max) / 190mm (min) Internal width: 115mm (min) Internal depth: 120mm (min) 140mm Main Beam 2 Shallower than Main Beam 1 and more symmetrical / less gnarled. It is also easy to join 2 lengths together to make a longer beam by simply butt joining and covering the joint with the B2 Simulated Iron Bracket. Length: 3000mm Width: 175mm Depth: 128mm Internal width: 130mm Internal depth: 110mm B2 Simulated Iron Bracket 180mm Main Beam 3 210mm 140mm Similar in appearance to Main Beam 2, but smaller. Easy to join 2 lengths together to make a longer beam by butt joining and covering the joint with the B3 Simulated Iron Bracket. Length: 2440mm Width: 125mm Depth: 100mm Internal width: 70mm Internal depth: 65mm B3 Simulated Iron Bracket 155mm 150mm 110mm Intermediate Beams Intermediate Beam (old style) Beautifully gnarled, these are moulded on all four sides so can also be used as posts when all four sides are visible. They can also be supplied split down their lengths to make shallower, half depth beams. Length: 3720mm Width: 150mm Depth: 150mm Intermediate Beam (new style) More symmetrical and less gnarled than the Old Style Intermediate Beams, these are also moulded on 4 sides and can also be supplied split lengthways to half depth. Length: 3720mm Width: 150mm Depth: 130mm Joists 6ft Joists Supplied as 6 different models to avoid repetition. Length: 1800mm Width: 75mm Depth: 75mm 6ft 6" Joists Supplied as 3 different models to avoid repetition. Length: 2000mm Width: 70mm Depth 50mm 10ft Joists Supplied as 3 different models to avoid repetition. Generally cut down to make 2 x 5ft joists or can be used for 7 to 8ft joists (rarely used as 10ft) Length: 3048mm Width: 75mm Depth: 50mm End Grain Panel Colour options. All beams are available in Jacobean Oak (as standard), Black, Mahogany, Light Oak, Mellow Oak or Limed Oak. We can also stain to match a sample you supply, or supply as unfinished for you to paint. For details and costs see page 22. Used where a beam end is left exposed, scribed to the shape of the beam. Filling and staining required. Factory fit recommended. Height: 325mm Width: 325mm Depth: 10mm Simulated Rivetted Iron Strap For joining Intermediate Beams. Made from rubber and silver/grey in colour, these are 1m long and can easily be cut to size and used for multiple joints. Need help with design / layout? On the following pages you will find guidelines on how to design your ceiling layout. If you need some help though, just give us a call on with your ceiling dimensions and an idea of the effect you are trying to achieve. 4 5

4 Medieval Figure Designed to be used with the Hammer Beam Corbel when additional decoration is required. We supply as a selection of mixed figures. Height: 440mm Width: 180mm Depth: 90mm Hammer Beam Corbel Height: 455mm Width: 125mm Projection: 380mm Main/Intermediate Beam Corbel Designed to be cut into 2 and used either end of your beam. Using one half vertically and the other horizontally can make an attractive feature. Height: 915mm Width: 150mm Projection: 150mm Beam Corbels Add corbels for a perfect finishing touch. Joist Corbel Height: 250mm Width: 75mm Projection: 250mm Designing your beamed ceiling The primary design objective is to look realistic. To achieve this realism your ceiling will be made up from 1, 2 or 3 sizes of beam: 1. Main beams 2. Intermediate beams 3. Joists Start with the larger size and work down. The simplest design is to use only a main beam. This is realistic as sometimes smaller beams and joists were covered by plasterwork. This is more desirable than running a scheme with too few additional beams and joists which will look unrealistic. Most people, however, build a network of intermediate beams and/or joists running from their main beam by following a few simple rules. Main beam(s): Should cross the room at its narrower dimension. Can be centrally positioned, or be offset. Smaller intermediate beams and/or joists are built up from the main beam. Rooms up to 16ft (4.87m) long require only one main beam. If your room measures much over 16ft (4.87m) you will need to incorporate either intermediate beam(s) or more main beam(s). This is because traditionally joists were between 5ft (1.52m) and 6ft 6" (1.98m) long. They were never longer than 8ft (2.44m) as over this length they would be too small to carry the weight of the floor running over it. Intermediate beam(s): Are used when the area between your main beam or beams and wall is greater than 8ft (2.44m). Run off your main beam at a 90 degree angle. Can run from one or both sides of the main beam. If running from both sides they can run from the same point, or be offset from each other. Can also be used as the principal beam in a small or low room. A few layout options: Below are a few common layout options. Whilst these are all symmetrical you can add asymmetry easily, but don t forget that the gnarled finish of the product adds asymmetry in itself. 13ft x 8ft room B x 1 G x 8 Glue x 4 + touch up kit 13ft x 8ft room B x 2 H x 6 (cut in half) Glue x 4 + touch up kit 12ft x 12ft room D or E x 2 G x 8 (cut in half) H x 3 (cut into thirds) Glue x 6 + touch up kit 12ft x 12ft room A (2 / 3 length) x 1 C x 1 F x 8 H x 3 (cut in half) Glue x 6 + touch up kit Joists: H A Run off your main and/or intermediate beams at 90 degree angles. Should be generally between 5ft (1.52m) and 6ft 6 (1.98m) long and not be longer than 8ft (2.44m). F Would traditionally be fitted around 16 (40cm) apart (centre to centre), although up to 24 (61cm) looks realistic. (If you wish to place joists further apart 13ft x 8ft room we recommend that you use one of the half depth B x 1 E x 1 18ft x 12ft room intermediate beams spaced at 39 (1m) G x 2 (cut in half) A (2 / 3 length) x 1 to 47 (1.2m) centres.) H x 4 (cut in half) D x 2 F x 16 Glue x 5 + touch up kit Glue x 7 + touch up kit 6 7 E G G H B B B G G H H C D A Main Beam 1 B Main Beam 2 C Main Beam 3 D Intermediate Beam (Old) E Intermediate Beam (New) F 6ft Joists G 6ft 6 Joists H 10ft Joists 8ft = 2.44m 12ft = 3.66m 13ft = 3.96m 18ft = 5.49m A D or E F F 12ft x 12ft room A (2 / 3 length) x 1 D (half depth) x 3 (cut in half) Glue x 2 + touch up kit 8H 1A F 12ft x 12ft room A (2 / 3 length) x 2 F x 6 H x 4 (cut into thirds) Glue x 3 + touch up kit F H A D D 18ft x 12ft room A (2 / 3 length) x 2 D x 1 (cut in half) F x 12 H x 4 (cut in half) Glue x 8 + touch up kit D F A A H

5 Covering an RSJ If you have an RSJ it will generally be covered with plasterboard and be of a size that will dictate that it becomes your main beam. (Building regulations actually now require new RSJ s be clad in plasterboard to protect them from fire.) We have 3 options to cover it: a. The Great Beam (the size of this is better suited to larger rooms with large RSJ s). b. Beam Cladding Planks. c. Sometimes our standard main beams can cover smaller RSJ s or pipes (see the internal specification information shown with each product). Beam Cladding Plank (full length) Length: 5850mm Width: 345mm Depth: 35mm Beam Cladding Plank ( 3 / 4 length) Length: 4000mm Width: 345mm Depth: 35mm Beam Cladding Plank ( 1 / 2 length) Length: 2925mm Width: 345mm Depth: 35mm 295mm Fire Protection Cladding RSJ 295mm Great Beam (full length) Length: 6300mm Width: 300mm Depth: 300mm Internal width: 200mm (min) Internal depth: 260mm (min) Great Beam ( 3 / 4 length) Length: 4800mm Width: 300mm Depth: 300mm Internal width: 200mm (min) Internal depth: 260mm (min) The Beam Cladding Plank with chamfer removed, for soffit Low Ceilings If your ceilings are low you can reduce the impact of your beams by using the Half Depth Intermediate Beam as your main beam, and running planks off it, rather than joists. This will give the impression of the beams and joists being part buried in the ceiling plasterwork. (See following section on wall planking for plank details.) Great Beam ( 1 / 2 length) Length: 3200mm Width: 300mm Depth: 300mm Internal width: 200mm (min) Internal depth: 260mm (min) 8 9

6 wall planks A few layout ideas for a 12ft long wall: 1. Ideal for use on walls, doors, sills and window frames. Moulded from original antique oak Authentic hand hewn effect mouldings. Handfinished in a variety of finish options " Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 200mm Depth: 20mm " Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 180mm Depth: 20mm 6 6" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 150mm Depth: 15mm 5" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 130mm Depth: 15mm 4" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 100mm Depth: 15mm 3" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 75mm Depth: 15mm Mock Oak Pegs To add authenticity, and/or to simply cover nail or screw heads, why not use our Mock Oak Pegs. They are supplied as a sheet of 64 pegs for you to cut as required = 7" plank. 10 = mix of 3", 4" and 5" planks - these are fitted randomly. Generally half would be 5" and a quarter each, 3" and 4". 11 = plate rack. 12 = cottage shelf Main Beam 1 2 New Style Intermediate Beam 3 Half Depth Old Style Intermediate Beam 4 Joists 5 Hammer Beam Corbel with Medieval Figure 6 Planks 7 Cottage Plate Rack 8 Fireplace 1

7 exterior wall planks Perfect for mock Tudor and all types of exterior wall planking effects. Weather resistant. Authentic hand hewn effect mouldings. Handfinished in a variety of finish options 8" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 200mm Depth: 20mm 7" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 180mm Depth: 20mm 6" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 150mm Depth: 15mm 5" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 130mm Depth: 15mm 4" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 100mm Depth: 15mm 3" Plank Length: 3000mm Width: 75mm Depth: 15mm Mock Oak Pegs To add authenticity, and/or to simply cover nail or screw heads, why not use our Mock Oak Pegs. They are supplied as a sheet of 64 pegs for you to cut as required. Wall Panelling, see overleaf 12 13

8 wall panelling Moulded from original antique oak timbers. Handfinished in a variety of finish options Lightweight and relatively easy to install. Large Panel For colour samples phone Height: 1770mm (nets down to 1730mm when rebate is covered by edging strips) Width: 460mm (nets down to 440mm when rebate is covered by adjoining panel) Projection: 20mm Small Panel Height: 850mm Width: 460mm (nets down to 440mm when rebate is covered by adjoining panel) Projection: 20mm Edging Strip Height: 70mm (when used horizontally) Width: 70mm (when used vertically) Length: 2700mm Projection: 20mm How to order and install your panelling The panelling is built up using the following components: 1. Edging strip across the bottom (this usually takes the place of skirting board, but can be placed above a suitable skirting if required). This has a rebate that the panelling sheets sit down onto. 2. Panelling sheets. 3. Edging strip across the top. This has a rebate that sits over the large panelling sheets, but when using small panelling sheets this simply butts up to them. 4. Edging strip fitted vertically at the end of a run of panelling sheets. You will be working from right to left, so this will sit at the left hand edge of the wall. 5. Edging strip fitted vertically if you are running panelling around an obstacle, like a window, to run either side of the obstacle. 6. If you are using large panels many people then like to finish with a plate rail. These components will result in the following approximate finishing heights: 1. Using the large panels you will achieve an overall height of approximately 1870mm, not including any additional picture rail or skirting (see pic right). 2. Using the small panels you will achieve an overall height of approximately 990mm, not including any additional skirting (see pic on previous page). So, to order: 1. Decide whether you require large panels for full height panelling, or small panels for half height panelling. Please note that you will only achieve the overall heights shown above. 2a. Measure (and install) for each wall individually. The working width of each panel is 440mm, and one end will finish with an edging strip which has a 70mm width. In effect you will therefore take the overall width of the wall you wish to panel, deduct 70mm for an Edging Strip, then see how many multiples of 440mm are required, rounding up for the number of panels you need. (Panels are relatively easy to cut to finish to your desired width - see installation instructions for further details on page 27). 2b. If you are running panelling under or around an obstacle, like a window, you need to treat the wall either side of the obstacle and the obstacle itself as though they were different walls. In effect you will stop the panelling at the edge of the obstacle with edging strip, and again once you have run around it. So measure and order for each section separately. 3. Repeat this process for each wall. 4. Edging Strip is sold in 2.7m lengths and will be required to run around the total width of your panelling both top and bottom. You will also require edging strip to run the height of your panelling once on each wall you are panelling. You will need additional Edging Strip if you are running panelling around a window or other obstacle - enough to run full height, both sides of the obstacle. 5. Decide whether you require our plate rail to finish Full depth panels 2 Edging Strip 3 Stuart Plate Rail 4 Wood Effect Cornice

9 E Cornice 4 cornice Moulded from original antique oak cornice. Every detail of the original carving preserved. Handfinished in a variety of finish options Wood Effect Cornice 5 Height: 145mm Projection: 85mm Length: 2480mm Wood Effect Cornice 6 Height: 170mm Projection: 230mm Length: 3000mm W E Cornice 6 Cornice Friezes Friezes traditionally run at the top of your wall, under a cornice. minimally from those shown. Frieze 1 Particularly effective when used under Wood Effect Cornice 3. Height: 235mm Projection: 15mm Length: 1270mm skirting & architrave Moulded from original antique oak timbers. Handfinished in a variety of finish options Wood Effect Cornice 1 Height: 70mm Projection: 85mm Length: 2400mm Wood Effect Cornice 7 Height: 230mm Projection: 90mm Length: 2000mm Pattern repeats every 760mm Wood Effect Skirting 1 Height: 76mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1930mm Wood Effect Cornice 2 Height: 95mm Projection: 80mm Length: 2057mm Pattern repeats every 1050mm Frieze 2 Particularly effective when used under Wood Effect Cornice 4 or 6. A rebated end hides joints. Height: 270mm Projection: 70mm Length: 1424mm Wood Effect Skirting 2 Height: 89mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1980mm Wood Effect Cornice 3 NB. Picture shows Limed Oak finish. Height: 105mm Projection: 85mm Length: 2970mm Pattern repeats every 600mm Wood Effect Cornice 8 Height: 270mm Projection: 90mm Length: 2500mm Pattern repeats every 100mm Wood Effect Skirting 3 Height: 114mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1905mm Wood Effect Cornice 4 Height: 140mm Projection: 210mm Length: 3000mm Frieze 3 Particularly effective when used under Wood Effect Cornice 4 or 6. A rebated end hides joints. Height: 325mm Projection: 35mm Length: 1424mm Wood Effect Skirting 4 Height: 200mm Projection: 32mm Length: 3000mm 16 17

10 2 1 Corner for Wood Effect Skirting 4 Wood Effect Skirting 4 can be mitred on corners. However, to make installation easier and provide an attractive feature, there is an optional corner piece. This is supplied taller than the skirting, to be cut down to size on site. It also projects further than Skirting 4 and therefore stands approx 5mm proud of it. 50mm across face. Plinth for Architrave 4 NB. Picture shows Limed Oak finish. Supplied as one piece for cutting in two. Height: 455mm Projection: 41mm Width: 110mm Corners for Architrave 4 NB. Picture shows Limed Oak finish. Height: 113mm Projection: 28mm Width: 113mm railing & plate rail Moulded from original antique oak railings. Handfinished in a variety of finish options Wood Effect Railing 5 Height: 85mm Projection: 30mm Length: 3280mm Wood Effect Railing 6 Height: 89mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1980mm Wood Effect Skirting 5 Height: 345mm Projection: 35mm Length: 2925mm Wood Effect Architrave 1 Height: 76mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1930mm Wood Effect Architrave 5 NB. Picture shows Limed Oak finish. Height: 104mm Projection: 30mm Length: 2500mm Wood Effect Architrave 6 Height: 114mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1905mm 3 Railing Wood Effect Railing 1 Height: 50mm Projection: 35mm Length: 3000mm Wood Effect Railing 7 Height: 95mm Projection: 20mm Length: 1854mm Wood Effect Railing 8 Height: 114mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1905mm Plate Rail Wood Effect Architrave 2 Height: 85mm Projection: 30mm Length: 3280mm Wood Effect Architrave 7 Height: 178mm Projection: 25mm Length: 2890mm Pattern repeated every 360mm Wood Effect Railing 2 Height: 63mm Projection: 40mm Length: 2820mm Wood Effect Architrave 3 Height: 89mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1980mm Wood Effect Architrave 8 Height: 185mm Projection: 70mm Length: 2460mm Wood Effect Railing 3 Height: 75mm Projection: 38mm Length: 2000mm Stuart Plate Rail Height: 100mm Projection: 110mm Length: 2696mm Wood Effect Architrave 4 Height: 95mm Projection: 20mm Length: 1854mm Plinth for Architrave 8 Supplied as one piece for cutting in two. Height: 645mm Projection: 70mm Width: 200mm Wood Effect Railing 4 Height: 76mm Projection: 19mm Length: 1930mm Cottage Plate Rail Height: 100mm Projection: 110mm Length: 1830m 18 19

11 fireplaces & shelf Moulded from original antique oak. Every detail of the original carving preserved. Handfinished in a variety of finish options Shelf Cottage Shelf Height: 200mm Projection: 170mm Length: 1425mm corbels Moulded from original antique oak corbels. Handfinished in a variety of finish options Wood Effect Corbel 5 Height: 460mm Projection: 283mm Width: 227mm Fireplaces Wood Effect Corbel 1 (pair) Height: 180mm Projection: 45mm Width: 45mm Wood Effect Corbel 2 Height: 220mm Projection: 75mm Width: 164mm Wood Effect Corbel 6 Height: 497mm Projection: 185mm Width: 315mm Wood Effect Corbel 3 Height: 250mm Projection: 105mm Width: 100mm Fireplace 1 Legs: Height: 1055mm (max) / 955mm (min) Width: 210mm Projection: 90mm (max) Fireplace 2 Legs (supplied as 1 piece for you to cut into 2 legs as appropriate): Height: 3720mm Width: 150mm Projection: 130mm Wood Effect Corbel 4 Height: 335mm Projection: 105mm Width: 95mm Mantel: Height: 180mm Width: 1375mm Projection: 200mm Mantel: Can be supplied with or without legs Height: 170mm Projection: 200mm (approx). Width: 1800mm (to your specification - max shown) Corbel 7 NB. Plaster style, rather than woodgrain, and supplied unstained for painting or staining on site. Height: 565mm Projection: 270mm Width: 260mm 20 21

12 Finishes All of the products in this brochure are hand finished to best replicate the antiqued look of old wood. Most of the photography in this brochure show our standard (and most popular) finish, which is Jacobean Oak, but there are other options available. These options are: Unfinished. This allows you to paint to match your decor should you wish. 3 lighter oak options: Light Oak, Mellow Oak, and Limed Oak. Black. Most commonly used for exterior mock tudor planking. Mahogany. Stain to match a sample that you supply. Limed Oak Mellow Oak Light Oak Mahogany Jacobean Oak Black 22 23

13 faux leather bound book spines Moulded from original antique, leather-bound books with mixed titles, in high resin. Hand painted in a variety of antiqued colours with many featuring gilt embossing (see NB). Adaptable to fit any shelf width. NB. Please note that all books are hand painted and as such may be coloured differently from how they are illustrated below e.g. what is shown as blue may actually be supplied red, green etc. For prices see pricelist or visit ukhomeinteriors.co.uk These products are hand made to order, so please allow 28 days for delivery. How to measure 1. Spines do not have the full depth of a book. To disguise this you will need to run the full width of your shelf. Measure this width. NB. You can mix in spines with real books to reduce the width of spines you would require. 2. Any odd widths can be made up from Book Spines 4, 6 or 8 which are designed to be broken down into individual books. Small disparities can easily be lost in shadow at the end of a row. You can also place a spine at an angle to rest to make up space at the end of a row. 3. Measure the height of your shelf. Keep in mind that book spines can be laid horizontally on top of other spines, as you would often find in a library, should you wish to make up more height. 4. Once you have established width and height requirements, order accordingly. How to install 1. To increase the perception of depth paint or stain your back panel a dark colour. 2. You can attach the spines to this back panel. When doing this it is often best to move the panel forward so that the spines are not set too far back in the shelf. 3. You can also mount spines onto brackets (you will need to use this method if you are hiding paperbacks) or, if mixing with real books, prop them with those books (although be aware that they will fall should the real books be removed). Book Spines 1 Book Spines 3 Book Spines 5 Book Spines 7 Height: 172mm, Depth: 30mm, Length: 415mm Supplied as 2 sets of 6 books. On installation these can be left joined or be separated. If separated the inner core will be exposed which can be concealed by the shelf end or and individual spine from models 4, 6 or 8. Height: 196mm, Depth: 30mm, Length: 460mm Supplied as 1 set of 10 books. On installation these can be left joined or separated. If separated the inner core will be exposed which can be concealed by the shelf end or an individual spine from models 4, 6 or 8. Height: 255mm, Depth: 40mm, Length: 487mm Supplied as 1 set of 10 books. On installation these can be left joined or separated. If separated the inner core will be exposed which can be concealed by the shelf end or and individual spine from models 4, 6 or 8. Height: 280mm, Depth: 40mm, Length: 512mm Supplied as 1 set of 7 books. On installation these can be left joined or be separated. If separated the inner core will be exposed which can be concealed by the shelf end or and individual spine from models 4, 6 or 8. Book Spines 2 Book Spines 6 Book Spines 4 Book Spines 8 Height: 190mm, Depth: 35mm, Length: 422mm Supplied as 1 set of 15 books. On installation these can be left joined or separated. If separated the inner core will be exposed which can be concealed by the shelf end or and individual spine from models 4, 6 or 8. Height: 216mm, Depth: 45mm, Length: 840mm, reducing to 533mm when separated. Supplied as 1 set of 17 books. These are designed with a separating foam spacer between each book to be cut and removed to split the row down into individual books. Height: 280mm, Depth: 45mm, Length: 432mm, reducing to 330mm when separated. Supplied as 1 set of 8 books. These are designed with a separating foam spacer between each book to be cut and removed to split the row down into individual books. Height: 330mm, Depth: 50mm, Length: 216mm, reducing to 178mm when separated. Supplied as 1 set of 3 books. These are designed with a separating foam spacer between each book to be cut and removed to split the row down into individual books

14 Installation These products are lightweight and easy to cut and work using good woodworking tools, so installation is relatively easy. Please note that beams are not load bearing. Below is our guide on how to install. The tools you will need: Sharp toothed woodworking saw. Knives or chisels (for trimming). Oval-headed nails or pins for panelling Hammer and nail punch. Adhesive. Touch-up kit (contains filler/stain/brown wax). Exposing the product core Whilst the surface of these products is finished to look just like wood, a cut section will expose the core. Usually this will be concealed by a joint but where it is not you should use items from the touch-up kit. Where designs include a suspended end i.e. where the end of a piece is fully visible, it is best to order a factory-finished end piece to improve the final appearance. Main Beams / Great Beam As you will see from the profile illustrations shown with each product option, these beams are U shaped. Main Beams are best fitted around a soft wood batten cut to the size of this U. For the Great Beam your RSJ fulfils this purpose although some packing out may be required. 1. Screw the batten to the ceiling timbers. Then fit the beam around it using adhesive where the beam meets the ceiling and where it meets the batten. 2. You should also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet, punching the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit). 3. When joining Main Beams 2 or 3 to make a longer beam simply butt join and cover the joint with the relevant Simulated Iron Bracket (see product page). For other beams call for advice. 4. In order for the beam to touch the wall both sides you will need to manufacture some room for manoeuvre. There are two methods for doing this. a. Knock out a pocket about 1.5 deep on one wall to allow you the manoeuvre room to push the beam tight to the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-plaster up to it. b. Cut a short 2-3 piece from the end of the beam, manoeuvre it into position tight against the far wall. Attach the beam and then re-adhere the cut piece to the end. 5. Finish with filler, stain and wax from the touch-up kit. Intermediate Beams These are best fitted to a soft wood batten that has been securely fixed to the ceiling timbers. Decide which face of your beam will fix to the ceiling and cut out a section centrally down its length that will fit over your batten. Then follow points 1. and 2. from the main beams instructions. For half depth intermediate beams you can follow the above instructions or, alternatively, use glue to adhere to the ceiling and also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet (nailing diagonally into the ceiling). Punch the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit). Intermediate Beams join to Main Beams and walls with simple butt joints (any exposed inner core areas will then not be visible). You may need to make some room for manoeuvre in which case follow instruction 4. given in the Main Beams section. Finish with filler, stain and wax from the touch-up kit. Joists and Planks Use glue and oval-headed nails diagonally every 2 feet. Ensure that the point of the nail is protruding through the back of the joist before you strike it so that it pierces the ceiling plaster immediately, rather than skating on the glue. Punch the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touchup kit). Use simple close butt joints where ends meet another surface. Cornice, Friezes, Architrave, Railing and Skirting Some people simply use adhesive, which is fine on smaller mouldings like dado rails. For additional strength, especially with cornices and larger mouldings use small-headed nails also. Punch nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit). Traditionally wooden cornices were butt joined and, unlike plaster, the joint was left unfilled. Fireplaces Fireplace 1 is supplied with mirror plates for ease of installation. Fireplace 2 is made up from products from our beams range and we recommend the same installation process (see main beams). Corbels Simply use glue and nails. Punch nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can cover the head with brown wax from the touch up kit). If you are supporting something with the corbels, like a shelf, screws are recommended for extra strength. Plate Rails and Cottage Shelf The cottage shelf is supplied with mirror plates for ease of installation. Plate rails fix securely using glue and wall plugs and screws. The screws should be counter sunk beneath the surface, ideally within the carved areas to be less obvious, and filled using the touch-up kit. Wall Panelling All components are fixed simply by using adhesive and pinning to a flat surface. Most fixings are concealed by the rebated design. Where additional pinning in a visible area is required punch these into the woodgrain and cover with wax from the touch-up kit. Arranging / Installing your Panelling 1. Measure, order and install for each wall individually. 2. Plan your arrangement of panels before installing as you are likely to need to reduce the width of at least one panel sheet to fit your dimensions (see section right). You can run full width panels from right to left and leave the final panel to be reduced in width. Most people will want a balanced look, in which case both far left and far right hand panels are usually reduced equally, leaving the central panels at full width. 3. Cut your panels to width, if required (see section rigth) and check that you have done so to the correct width before you start installing. Minor errors may be able to be adjusted for within the rebate system of the panels. 4. Then install your panel sheets. Ensure that you install them at the correct height to accommodate the bottom Edging Strip that you will fit later. Work from right to left along your wall. This will enable you to pin through the left hand edge of each panel sheet, with the right hand rebate on the next sheet covering these fixings. When pinning, as far as is possible, pin through areas that will be covered by the next sheet or by Edging Strip. 5. When you reach the left hand corner or finishing point you will need to finish with a separate Edging Strip. Cut this Edging Strip to the full length of the panelling. You will then mitre a joint, top and bottom, to meet the lengths of Edging Strip that will run top and bottom of your panel sheets. 6. Install an Edging Strip at floor level as skirting (occasionally people install this over a skirting). The rebate on the strip sits over the lower section of the panel sheets, covering any pin heads you have used to install the panel sheets. Mitre at the left hand end where this strip meets your vertical Edging Strip. 7. Install Edging Strip across the top of your panel sheets. With large panels the edging will sit over the rebate on the panel sheets. With small panels the edging will butt join to the panels. Mitre at the left hand end where this strip meets your vertical Edging Strip. 8. Install Plate Rail if required. 9. Touch up any areas required with items from the touch-up Kit. Reducing the width of a panel sheet To reduce the width of a panel follow this procedure - it is the best way to conceal the cut: 1. Firstly cut vertically down the left hand side of the right hand bead of the panel. This will leave you with a section comprising the right hand bead and rebate, that you should retain to rejoin later. 2. Then cut away the required amount, again from the right of the panel. 3. Carefully colour the exposed core with stain from the touch-up kit. 4. Install the cut panel to the wall. 5. Install the bead and rebate that you cut away in step 1. to the wall. Because you have cut along the left hand edge of the bead the joint should be relatively well concealed. Working around obstacles If you wish to run panelling around an obstacle, like under a window or over a fireplace, schedule each section separately. For a balanced look you would therefore treat the left and right hand sides of the obstacle as separate areas and, if there is a central area also like under a window, treat this as a separate third area too. Then follow the procedure outlined previously for a wall, for each area individually. Delivery Please allow 28 days for delivery, as every product is moulded and hand finished to order. For delivery costs see website or call The Small Print. Please note that due to the gnarled and hand made nature of these products there may be some minimal fluctuation in sizes from those shown in this brochure. Also, because our products are hand stained to look like natural old wood there will be fluctuations in colour. As these products are hand-made to your order we regret that we cannot offer refunds, unless there is a product defect. Any defective product which you wish to be replaced will be done so as quickly as possible. Once your order is placed it cannot be cancelled. It is the customer s responsibility to ensure that all specification information supplied by the customer, or a third party on the customers behalf, is correct. ukhomeinteriors accepts no responsibility for products that have been supplied to the requested specifications should those specifications subsequently be found to be incorrect

15 We are constantly updating our range, adding and occasionally discontinuing products. To view our full current range, and up to date pricing, visit our website at HOW TO ORDER Simply call us on , or order online at TERMS & CONDITIONS For full terms & conditions please visit our website. 27 Woodbridge Road Moseley Birmingham B13 8EH Tel: Fax: