Workshop: Course curriculum development for Weaving / Fabric Manufacturing (For U.G.)

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1 WS/CC/WVG 12/1 WORKSHOP ANCHOR INSTITUTE FOR TEXTILE SECTOR Report Workshop: Course curriculum development for Weaving / Fabric January 22 Organised / Prepared/ Compiled By: Department of Textile Engineering Faculty of Tech. & Engg., The M. S. University of Baroda Kalabhavan Dandia Bazar Vadodara 390 0, Gujarat. Phone: (0265) ext aidtemsu@gmail.com Promoted by Industries Commissionerate, Government of Gujarat

2 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector 1 Contents 1. Introduction to Course Curriculum 2 2. Detials of course curriculum Module I : Yarn Preparation I Module II : Yarn Preparation II Module III : Weaving I Moduel IV : Weaving II Moduel V : Weaving III Suggested project topics for Industrial training Reference books Panel of Experts. 10 January, 22

3 2 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector 1. Introduction to Course Curriculum Weaving or Fabric Formation is one of main operation in Textile Units. Fabric Formation can be done mainly in three different ways i.e. Woven, Knitted and Non Woven. Each of them is not only technically different but also different in machineries and process parameters. So, for all of them different course curriculum is suggested. Here special emphasis is given on Weaving as it is the core technique and all institutes are accustomed with this subject. In recent times lot of development has taken place, particularly on the machinery aspects, to produce the fabrics at higher speeds. We have tried to take care of all these aspects. The length wise direction of the threads in the fabric called warp and the other direction, generally called weft, which are interlaced in the machine (called loom) for the woven structure of the fabrics. This interlacement process is called weaving and technology is called weaving technology. The whole weaving is divided in two parts, one is weaving and other is its preparatory (i.e yarn preparation). Yarn preparation itself is a small department where the yarn is made ready for weaving. It consists of several processes like Winding, Warping, Sizing, Beaming etc. for the warp and for the weft process like pirn winding. Therefore the whole syllabus was divided into five modules. Module I. - Yarn Preparation I. Module II - Yarn Preparation II. Module III - Weaving I. Module IV - Weaving II. Module V - Weaving III. January, 22

4 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector 3 2. Details of course curriculum 2.1 Module I : Yarn Preparation - I. Sr. Topic Covered Number of lectures A YARN WINDING Introduction to weaving preparatory, various warp and weft preparatory processes Objectives of yarn winding, Winding at different stages of yarn processing Introduction to various winding packages with special emphasis on cross wound packages Winding at constant crossing ratio suitable crossing ratios for winding, 02 concept of ribboning, concept of gain, characteristics of package wound at constant crossing ratio (Precision winding) Winding at constant helix angle, package characteristics (Random winding) Step precision winding, package characteristics Winding with varying helix angle in random mode and precision mode Half and fully accelerated traverse, traverse variation Optimization of parameters to build a package according to its end use 02 application Ballooning tension of ring frame and cross wound package, yarn tensioning devices, modern devices to regulate yarn tension during winding (balloon optimization, closed loop control systems with yarn tension sensor), yarn tension meter yarn faults, mechanical yarn clearers, introduction to electronic yarn clearing, yarn fault classification Methods of yarn joining, various knots, introduction to yarn splicing Methods of package driving surface drive and direct drive Methods of yarn traversing grooved drum traverse, cam traverse, 02 traversing with counter rotating blades, stepper motor traverse Flexibility in yarn laying with modern drive systems Calculations related to winding 02 Process control in yarn winding, Winding package faults and remedies 02 Sub Total 22 B WARPING Objectives of a warping process, classification of various types of warping machines, to calculate sett of back beams Typical passage of warp of warping machine to discuss importance of various machine parts. Different types of creels used on warping machines Importance of measuring motions and various types used. Drive on warping machines: surface drive and spindle drive Process control in warping. 02 Draw backs of conventional warpers and features of modern warping 02 machines like improvement in the passage, stop motions, efficient braking arrangements, automatic beam doffing, efficient cleaning devices. Calculations related to direct beam warping 02 Objectives of sectional warping machine and typical sequence of 02 January, 22

5 4 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector C machine part in the warping section of the process like soldered reed, V reed, tapered drum, deciding the inclination of the drum. Details of the beaming process and various devices used for proper beaming. Factors responsible for improper build up of section. Features of modern sectional warping machines Calculations related to sectional warping machines Discussion of various features listed earlier with help of brochures and videos. Sub Total 17 PIRN WINDING Various forms in which weft can be supplied to the loom. and Construction details of pirn Shapes of bare pirn and grooves on pirn surface. Unwinding behavior of weft. Process control in pirn winding machine. Brief idea about various mechanisms on pirn winding machine like 02 traversing, advancing mechanisms, etc. Production calculation Sub Total 05 A+B+C Grand Total Module II : Yarn Preparation - II. Sr. Topic Covered Number of lectures A AUTOMATIC WINDING MACHINES Introduction and classification Typical passage of yarn on an automatic winding machine focusing on additional elements required like anti-kink device, yarn trap etc. Details of elements of creeling unit of leading machines (balloon breaker, anti-kink device) Details of elements of central unit 03 Details of elements of winding unit (drive, cradle etc.) 02 Various methods of cop feeding (circular magazine, hopper feed, spinlink 02 systems Automation cycle Various salient features leading to improved package build up, uniform 04 tension, reduced wastage and power consumption, uniform density, uniform length content etc. on modern automatic winding machines (Propack FX, Variopack FX, Ecopack FX, Balcon, Pac 21, Autotense FX, Tension Manager, Upper yarn sensor etc. etc.) Drumless traverse and increased scope of efficient package build 02 Details of yarn splicing 03 Modern concept of yarn clearing (e.g. Uster Quantum 3, Yarn Master 02 Zenit) B Sub Total 22 SIZING Object of sizing, Understanding sizing process and machines; like Creel and its types, Size box: conventional and modern, Drive: conventional and on modern, drying and its mechanism, modifications in the cylinder design, concept of multi cylinder sizing machines, hot air concept and single end sizing concept, etc January, 22 05

6 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector 5 Size Mixture: Adhesives (Natural and synthetics etc.), antiseptics, 02 weighting agents, softeners, etc. and their functions in brief. Deciding size recipe according to yarn parameters like count, type of 02 yarns, etc. Preparation of size paste Process control in sizing: Size pick-up, penetration, coating (360 ), 04 creel tension, size box management, proper drying, stretch control, moisture control, weavers beam hardness control, migratory end control, waxing, etc Features of modern sizing machine: Electronic automatic control of 04 machine, Automatic stretch control, temperature settings of multicylinder sizing machines and various other settings of modern sizing machines Sizing of blend yarns Sizing of synthetic fibre yarns Sizing of denim yarns Other Trends in sizing: melt sizing, solvent sizing, foam sizing Sub Total 22 A+B Grand Total Module III : Weaving - I. Sr. Topic Covered Number of lectures A DRIVE TO LOOM Introduction: An overview of various fabric manufacturing process, fabric parameters, etc. Passage of warp yarns through a plain power loom and functions of various parts, in brief, in the passage. Meaning of drive to loom, driving mechanisms, Drive calculations Sub Total 02 B PRIMARY MOTIONS OF A LOOM What are the primary motions of loom? How they are inter-related? Shedding Mechanism: Concept of Shedding mechanism. Importance of different shed parameters like shed dept, top line of shed, bottom line of shed etc. Different types of shed: Open, semi open, centre closed, bottom closed shed. Construction and working of negative tappet shedding mechanism Shed depth calculations, Differential lift of front and back heald shaft and its clarifications. Shed timing diagram. Construction of tappet for different types of weaving like 1/1 plain weave, 2/1 twill weave etc. Reversing mechanism of shedding. Advantages and disadvantages of different reversing mechanisms. Dobby Shedding: Limitations of tappet shedding. Introduction to dobby shedding. Construction and working of climax dobby, timing and settings, pattern chain preparation, pick finding, etc Different negative lever dobbies, their advantages and disadvantages. Cam dobby, their advantage and disadvantages over lever dobby. Rotary dobby, their advantage and disadvantages. Electronic dobby, their advantage and disadvantages over 03 mechanical dobby. CAD/CAM in electronic dobby. Picking Mechanism: Introduction, concept of picking, classification conventional and unconventional picking., etc., Construction and January, 22

7 6 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector C D working of Cone overpick mechanism in details Timing diagram of picking and its correlation with shedding diagram. Why dwell of shedding and picking timing doesn t match? etc. Calculations for Shuttle speed and Power required for picking Shuttle checking, hinge swell, Floating swell, check strap, Rest position of shuttle. Understanding of shuttle checking retardation phenomenon in details LH & RH loom and shuttle, running time of a pirn, warp and weft breaks, loom efficiency, weaver allocation, etc Shuttle displacement by picker, causes of shuttle fly, etc. Underpick mechanism: Introduction, details of side lever underpick mechanism. Under pick and over-pick comparison. Early picking and late picking Beat-up Mechanism: Concept of beat up mechanism. Construction and working of crank beat-up mechanism. Eccentricity of sley beat-up mechanism. Calculations of eccentricity. Factors affecting eccentricity Implications of different eccentricity values. Sub Total 20 SECONDARY MOTIONS OF A LOOM Let-off Motion: Objects of let-off, types of let-off Negative and positive let-off motions and their advantages and disadvantages. Construction and working of negative let-off motion and it s mathematical calculations. Limitations of negative let off motion Positive let-off: Positive let off mechanism, their advantages over negative let off motion Take-up Motion: Introduction and concept of take-up; direct & indirect take up; classification of take-up negative and positive take up motion. 5-wheel and 7-wheel take-up mechanism, dividend calculations. Comparison of 5 & 7 wheel take-up mechanism Modern take up mechanisms and their advantages over conventional take up mechanism. 02 Sub Total 06 OTHER MOTIONS OF A LOOM Warp Protector Motion: Importance of warp protector motion. Loose reed warp protector motion details. Construction and working of fast reed warp protector motion and its settings Filler/Weft Stop Motion: Importance of weft stop motion; construction, working and timing of side weft fork (SWF) motion. Temple: Importance of temple, various types of temples, mounting and settings of temples on loom Brakes: Importance of brake motion on loom, types of brakes, adjustment brakes on loom Loom Efficiency: Understanding loom efficiency, various methods of finding loom/loomshed efficiency, norms for loom efficiency, etc. Fabric Faults: Types of fabric faults, their causes and remedies 02 Production Calculations: Problems for solving linear production. 02 Understanding relationship between linear production and productivity of loom/loomshed. Weaving of synthetic yarns, filament yarn, silk yarns, elastomeric yarns 04 etc. the necessary changes required in the loom. January, 22

8 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector 7 A+B +C +D Sub Total 14 Grand Total Module IV: Weaving II. Sr. Topic Covered Number of lectures A AUTOMATIC SHUTTLE LOOMS Introduction to automatic shuttle looms, various weft feelers, cop and 04 shuttle changing mechanism, etc. Warp stop mechanism: Mechanical, electro-mechanical and electronic 02 type of warp stop motions Advance warp control mechanism, like automatic tension control from start to end of a beam, start mark prevention etc. 02 Sub Total 08 B JACQUARD SHEDDING Limitations of dobby shedding and scope of jacquard shedding. Different mechanical jacquard shedding mechanisms, their timing and 03 settings, advantages and disadvantages Electronic jacquards, their advantages and disadvantages over 04 mechanical jacquards. CAD/CAM in Jacquard shedding, Understanding in details about e- 03 shedding Different leading electronic jacquard machines in details available in 06 industries, like Staubli, Bonus, Grosse, etc. Sub Total 17 C MULTIPLE BOX MOTION Use of box motion on loom, Different types of multiple box motions, etc 02 Constructions and working details of Eccles Drop Box Motion 02 Sub Total 04 D TERRY PILE FABRICS Terry pile fabrics, their properties, construction of fabrics 3-pick, 4-pick, etc terry pile fabrics, sculptured terry pile fabrics and 02 their designs Different terry pile mechanisms like reed retraction, cloth retraction, sley 02 retraction principles, etc A+B +C +D Sub Total 05 Grand Total Module IV:- Weaving III. Sr. Topic Covered Number of lectures A SHUTTLE LESS WEAVING MECHANISM Air Jet Loom: Introduction to air-jet looms, weft insertion elements; like main nozzle, relay and stretch nozzles, design of path of the air jet i.e. confuser, profile reed etc., timing and settings of various assembly, air supply, quality of air required for air jet picking, air consumption, timing and settings of machine, trouble shootings of airjet weaving machines, characteristics and features of modern air jet looms. 10 January, 22

9 8 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector Projectile/Gripper Looms: Projectile picking concept, details/specifications of projectile/gripper, torsion bar picking motion, picking cycles/phases, transfer of projectiles, speed of loom, quick style change mechanism, timing and settings of machine, trouble shootings of projectile weaving machines, characteristics and features of modern projectile looms. Rapier Looms: Introduction to rapier looms, system of weft insertion using rapier, single or double rapier, rigid and flexible rapier, rapier drive, rapier head design, timing and settings of machine, trouble shootings of rapier weaving machines, characteristics and features of modern rapier looms. Water Jet Looms: Introduction to water jet looms, system of weft insertion using water jet, picking mechanism details, quality of water requirement, applicability of loom, timing and settings of machine, trouble shootings of water jet weaving machines, characteristics and features of modern water jet looms Sub Total 38 B SELVEDGE FORMATION Various selvedge formation techniques of shuttle less weaving 04 mechanisms; like Leno selvedge, tucked-in selvedge, fuse selvedge, etc.; false selvedges in various shuttle less weaving machines, Sub Total 04 A+B Grand Total Suggested Projects topics for Industrial training. 1. Settings of yarn clearer curve in automatic winding machine for various types of yarns. 2. Study in details about the modern concept of yarn clearing like Uster Quantum 3, Yarn Master Zenit, etc 3. Importance of creel setting in modern warping machine to control yarn tension 4. Calculations and setting of section in sectional warping machine 5. A case studies of size yarn quality in terms of size add-on, penetration, degree of coating, moisture in the yarn etc. 6. Various settings of sizing machines to control stretch. 7. Quality of pirn for automatic looms 8. Identifying some of the major fabric defects eg. starting mark, reedy fabric, temple mark etc. and take remedial actions to correct them. Contamination removal: 9. New beam gaiting techniques in details, the steps involve it the process like machine maintenance required before gaiting, restarting of loom with minimum fabric wastage. January, 22

10 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector Knotting process of beam change and the precautions taken during the process. 11. A study on air weft insertion efficiency with various settings of an air jet loom 12. Quality of air and air consumption study on airjet loom 13. Some common fabric defects on air jet looms and actions required to solve them 14. Projectile loom settings and trouble shootings. 15. Rapier drive details with settings and maintenance schedule. 16. A case studies on transfer failure on rapier weaving machine 17. Water jet looms maintenance schedule and its importance 18. Using CAD/Cam prepare a new design for electronic jacquard and run on machine 19. Modern material handling systems in weaving and their advantages & disadvantages, impact on quality & cost. 20. Quick style change in weaving 21. Automatic knotting machines in weaving 22. Measures taken for energy saving in weaving department. 23. Measures for Humidity, Safety & Environment control in a weaving unit. 2.7 Suggested Reference books for all modules. 1. Principles of Weaving by R. Marks and A.T.C. Robinson 2. Weaving machines, mechanism and management by M. K. Talukdar 3. Principles of weaving by K. T. Aswani 4. Weaving mechanism by N N Banerjee 5. Fabric forming by B Hasmukhrai 6. The mechanism of weaving by Thomas W Fox 7. Weaving Mechanism by K K Murthy 8. Woven fabric production - I by NCUTE, IIT, Delhi 9. Woven fabric production - II by NCUTE, IIT, Delhi 10. Handbook of Weaving by Sabit Adanur. 11. Conversion of yarn to fabric by P. R. Lord and M. H. Mohhamad. 12. Winding monogram series by BTRA. 13. Process control in weaving by ATIRA. 14. Yarn preparation by A. K. Sengupta. 15. An introduction to winding and warping by Dr. M. K. Talukdar. 16. Textile mathematics Vol II by J. E. Booth. January, 22

11 10 Anchor Institute for Textile Sector 17. Sizing materials, methods and mechanics by Ajgaonkar, Talukdar and Wadekar. 18. Warping and sizing by BTRA. 19. Technology of warp sizing by J. B. Smith. 20. Modern preparation and weaving machinery by A. Ormerod. 21. Weaving technology & operations by A. Ormerod & W. S. Sondhlem. 22. Loom shed by BTRA. 23. Modern developments in weaving machinery by B. Duxbury & G. R. Wray. 24. Shuttle less weaving machines by Talacasek & V. Svaty. 3. Panel of Experts Experts from the Industries and Academics were called on 21 st Jan. 22 at the Anchor Institute Office, under the chairmanship of Dean, Faculty of Technology & Engineering, The M. S. University of Baroda. The meeting was started at a.m. and continued up to 2.30 p.m. Lot of inputs were given by the Industry persons and after brain storming above modules were finalized. The following Experts were present and helped in restructuring of Fabric formation (Weaving) Course. 1. Shri S. S. Aich CEO, Alok Industries, VAPI. 2. Shri Rajendra B. Maid - Associate Vice President (Weaving), Alok Ind. Ltd., Silvassa. 3. Shri Amit Patel Sr. G.M. (Manufacturing), Ashima Ltd. 4. Shri Danesh Patel G. M., Ashima Ltd. 5. Prof. A. I. Thakkar Head, Textile Tech. Dept., L. D. College of Engg. 6. Dr. P. A. Khatwani- Prof.& Head, Textile Tech. Dept. SCET, Surat 7. Dr. S. S. Bhattacharya, Prof. & Ex Head,Text.Engg.Dept., M.S.Uni, Baroda 8. Shri S. T. Vernekar Associate Prof., M. S. Uni. Baroda. 9. Shri D. A. Vasavada - Associate Prof., M. S. Uni. Baroda. 10. Dr. M. V. Koranne - Associate Prof., M. S. Uni. Baroda 11. Shri S. B. Chaudhari Asst. Prof. Text.Engg.Dept.- M.S.U., Baroda 12. Shri A. A. Mandot- Asst. Prof. Text.Engg.Dept.- M.S.U., Baroda We are very much thankful to all the experts for participating and giving their positive inputs for this workshop. ******** January, 22

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