Natural Fibres. Vegetable (cellulose): Animal (protein): Mineral: Rock fibres- Asbestos. Cotton is often considered to be an easy care fabric.

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1 Natural Fibres Vegetable (cellulose): Animal (protein): Mineral: Rock fibres- Asbestos Cotton is often considered to be an easy care fabric. (a) (i) Explain the properties of cotton that make it easy to launder. (7 marks) (ii) What are the problems that make cotton fabrics difficult to care for? (7 marks) (b) How can cotton fabrics be made easier to care for? (4 marks) (c) Explain the care advice you would recommend for: (i) cotton corduroy trousers; (5 marks) (ii) a cotton polyester duvet cover. (5 marks

2 Natural Fibres Fibre Clothing comfort Other properties Applications Cotton Flax Fine flexible fibres however through finishing more voluminous materials made. Absorb 20% of water without feeling wet, dries slowly Very comfortable next to skin-fineness and softness Smooth flax fibres, poor insulation Highly absorbent- takes up water rapidly and releases quickly Good strength- stronger when wet Abrasion resistant Durable Very poor elasticity-creases easily Scarcely electrostatic charge Fibres are fine and softpleasant to handle Good tenacity and durabilitystronger when wet Low elasticity- crease badly No electrostatic charge Coarse fibre- firm handle Shirts, blouses, underwear, nightwear, leisure wear,bed clothes, table cloths, hand bath towels Workwear and protective clothing, awnings, tarpaulins. Summer wear, jackets, suits, interlinings for stiffening Bed clothing Tarpaulins, rope Silk Cool and warm, fine fabric with small volume of enclosed air lying smooth against skin giving a cooling effect but due to the compact fabrics it traps air next to skin Very good tenacity, Outstanding resilience very fine that doesn't crease sensitive to deodorants and perfumes Dresses, blouses, sophistcated underwear, ski underwear, scarves, drapes wall coverings, racing bicycle tyres Wool The finer and more tightly spun yarns have less thermal insulation but bulky woollen fibres allow fibres to crimp increasing amount of trapped air Very absorbent- vapour absorbed rapidly but droplets are repelled Dries very slowly Soft next to skin Adequate strength- low durability Fibres are springy so good elasticity Small electrostatic charge Does not burn easily Suits, pullovers, overcoats Blankets, carpets, drapes, Fire protective clothing Industrial felts

3 Inorganic Fibres Carbon Glass Metal Discuss the types of inorganic fibres used in textiles applications and describe several uses for these fibres. You should make reference to specific inorganic fibres in your answer.

4 Inorganic Fibres Glass Carbon Metal Manufactured into filament yarns and staple fibres. Won t burn, do not absorb moisture, low extensibility. Carbon fibres have more than 80% carbon content. Resistant to temperatures up to 4000 C. High tensile strength and stiffness Wire drawn or flat filaments out of silver and gold colours staple fibres. Drapes, wall-hangings, fireproof safety curtains, reinforced plastics Trademarks include Fibreglass Technical textiles- reinforced plastics for aircraft, machinery and sports equipment. Trademarks include Sigrafil, Tenax Brocades and decorative cords and braiding- staple fibres are blended with other vfibres to provide antistatic and electrically conducting fabrics for protective clothing Lurex metallised polyester film, overlaid with a plastic coating-polyester film laminated with aluminium and then protected by a layer of plastic lacquer. Effect yarns for woven and knitted fabrics

5 Man-Made Fibres Natural Polymers: Synthetic: Polyamide (nylon) fibres are increasingly used for a wide variety of fabrics. (a) Outline the properties of polyamide fibres and explain why they are so popular. (12 marks) (b) Describe one modern polyamide fabric and explain its use for a specific type of product. (12 marks)

6 Man-made Fibres Fibre Clothing comfort Applications Viscose Polyamide Polyester Low dry and wet strength Poor resilience and wrinkle easily Low electrostatic charge Range of high to matt lustre Very strong Excellent abrasion resistance Very resilient and wrinkle-resistant. Thermoplastic Very high tensile strength Excellent abrasion resistance Very resilient and wrinkle resistant Unaffected by most acids, alkalis and solvents Lustre is bright or matt depending on crosssection of filament Blouses, shirts, dresses, drapes, lingerie, ribbons and trimmings Filament yarns usually textured. Sheet stockings, lingerie, foundation garments, swimming, sports and leisure wear, linings, dresses, weather-proof clothing and umbrellas Staple fibres- blends with other fibres; wool, cotton, viscose, and modal- suits, costumes, dresses, shirts and blouses. 100% polyester staple yarns- high strength sewing threads, wadding's, interlinings Filament yarns for apparel fabrics are usually textured. dresses blouses ties and scarves Rainwear, fleece fabric, sail cloth

7 Fibre Blending Reasons for fibre blending: Quality Improvement- improved performance in use e.g. abrasion resistance durability, creasing. Improved clothing comfort e.g. thermal insulation, moisture absorption, next-to-skin comfort. Improved aftercare performance e.g. laundering, drying, ironing, shrinking Appearance- Optical effects e.g. colour, lustre, structure effects Production cost- Improved cost efficiency e.g. fibre cost, fibre supply, yarn uniformity, yarn fineness, process efficiency Most popular- wool with polyester, nylon or acrylics and cotton with polyester, nylon, viscose or modal Fibre blends are used extensively for fashion and furnishing fabrics. (a) Giving examples, explain the reasons why fibres are blended. (10 marks) (b) (i) Describe the properties of wool and nylon and explain why they are often blended together. (10 marks) (ii) Give, with reasons, two applications for a wool/nylon blend fabric. (2 x 4 marks)

8 AQA unit 3 exam 2011 Select two of the following novelty yarns: slub bourette bouclé chenille Explain how each of the yarns you have chosen is produced. (2 x 3 marks) Describe two different processes used to produce bulked or stretched textured yarns from synthetic fibres. (2 x 4 marks) Textured fabrics can be produced by various finishing processes. Explain the finishing processes that could be applied to fabrics to create different textures. (14 marks)

9 Fundamentals Terminology: Spun yarns- Filament yarns- Multi-filament- Monofilament- Assembled yarns- Folded or Piled yarns- Cabled Yarns -A basic cabled yarn is made by taking two standard two-ply yarns and plying them together again in the opposite direction. Microfibre-less than 1 dtex. tex= mass in grams per kilometre of fibre (or yarn) dtex (decitex)= mass in grams of ten kilometres of fibre (or yarn)

10 Fundamentals Twist: Twist direction- Z (right) and S (left) Twist level Woollen & Worsted Fancy yarns- slub, loop, bourette (A Fancy Plied Yarn With Nubs And Knots Of Another Colour) Textured-

11 Woven Fabrics

12 Woven Fabrics Plain Fabrics Twill Fabrics

13 Cut Pile Woven fabrics

14 AQA Unit Designers and manufacturers of textiles products have been inspired by traditional ethnic and cultural patterns and fabrics for many years. 1 1 Fabric pattern can be created through its construction and application of colour. Describe one fabric which uses a traditional ethnic construction method. (4 marks) 1 2 Explain one traditional ethnic method of applying surface pattern and colour to a fabric. (4 marks) 1 3 Describe how designers can incorporate traditional ethnic and cultural influences into their textile products. You may use sketches to illustrate your answer. (12 marks) 1 4 Ethical trading is becoming increasingly important in the global market place. Discuss the issues facing major retailers in relation to consumer demand for ethical trading. (8 marks)

15 Traditional Fabric Construction Also known as a Kente cloth. Made by the Ashanti people of Ghana and is the most labour intensive weaving in the world. It became a true art form and represented the concept of royalty and status. Traditionally the Ashanti people only worked around geometric patterns. The spider Anansi taught the art of weaving to two brothers who had discovered his web while on a hunting trip. Anansi also taught them how to spin and dye the threads. Since then the Ashanti have used the strip looms Anansi taught them to build. Men traditionally do the strip weaving in West Africa.

16 Traditional Fabric Construction The backstrap loom, also known as the belt loom, can make different widths of fabric depending of the width of the rods. Guatemalan artisan weavers can weave as narrow as a belt or as large as inch width. If a cloth needs to be wider, the two pieces are joined together with heavy embroidery stitches. An example of this would be the corte (the skirt) of the Mayan women, which if hand-woven would have the pieces joined with embroidery stitches. Many weavers incorporate intricate embroidery patterns within their weavings.

17 Traditional Fabric Construction Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres prior to dyeing. The word ikat derives from the Malay word mengikat 'to tie'. Bindings, which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the desired patterns and the threads are dyed. Alteration of the bindings and the dyeing of more than one colour produce elaborate, multi-coloured patterns. When all of the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are ready to be woven into cloth.

18 Traditional Fabric Construction Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttlewoven fabrics, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. Comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth" Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in many other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland. Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns Tartan is made with alternating bands of coloured (pre-dyed) threads woven as both warp and weft at right angles to each other. The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over two under the warp.

19 Open work fabric Macramé or macrame is a form of textilemaking using knotting rather than weaving or knitting. It was long crafted by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms, to decorate anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships. Leno-An open weave created by arranging warp yarns in pairs, and twisting them alternately in a right or left hand direction before inserting the filling yarn. Also called a doup weave - it naturally adds strength to open weaves and prevents yarns from shifting out of position. Crochet is a process of creating fabric from yarn, thread, or other material strands using a crochet hook. Consists of pulling loops through other loops, but additionally incorporates wrapping the working material around the hook one or more times. Crochet differs from knitting in that only one stitch is active at one time

20 Knitted Fabrics Weft Knit Polo shirts are usually made of knitted cloth (rather than woven cloth), usually piqué knit cotton

21 Jacquard Weft Knitted Fabrics

22 Weft Knitted Fabrics Flat Knitted Fabrics Circular Knitted Fabrics

23 Warp Knitted Fabrics Plain Tricot stitch Locknit

24 Warp Knitted Fabrics Warp Knitted Terry Warp Knitted plush, velour Raschel net Raschel lace

25 Non-woven Fabrics Wool Felts

26 Needle Felts Nonwoven Fabrics

27 Nonwoven Fabrics Bonded Webs

28 Linings A wide range of interfacings and linings is available to manufacturers. (a) (i) Describe three different types of interfacing. (6 marks) (ii) Suggest an application for each type. (3 marks) (iii) Giving examples, describe the care that will be needed when selecting interfacing for a product. (6 marks) (b) Evaluate the use of linings in a variety of garments and furnishings. (9 marks) Types of interfacing woven knitted non-woven iron-on sew-in canvas buckram stitch and tear quilted vilene stretch interfacings stitch re-inforced felt cotton idion bondaweb grosgrain ribbon.

29 Finishing Why Finish? Protect Change the handle Improve durability Add value Improve aesthetics Are fit for intended purpose Types of Finish Permanent Often a chemical finish, like flame resistance Durable- lasting the life of the product, like permanent pleating Semi durable- Lasting several launderings, like shower proof Temporary- removed by laundering, like pressing or calendering.

30 Chemical

31 Mechanical/ Physical

32 Direct Printing Discharge Printing Resist printing Transfer Printing Flock Printing Pigment Printing Lacquer Printing Warp Printing Printing

33 Dyeing Dyeing- Textiles can be dyed at the fibre, yarn, fabric or product stage of manufacture Types of dyeing- Overdyeing and garment dyeing. Fabrics are often produced in a greige undyed state and then piece dyed to meet the colour requirements of the maker up and the selling season. The fabric is passed through a bath of dyestuff and then squeezed between rubber rollers to ensure even and consistent dyeing. Continuous fixation machinery fixes the dye in the fabric. This process enables continual dyeing but also reduces the costs of setting machines up for producing colour woven fabrics.

34 Dyeing Garment dyeing enables colours to be chosen late in the manufacturing cycle, as dictated by fashion. This is desirable and cost effective for some manufacturers because colour decisions can be made close to the selling season. This is often used on fashion products. Resist dyeing- Tie-dyeing & Batik Dyeing preparation desizing, scouring, bleaching Batch dyeing processes- substantial amounts of each product/ dye & fixer/ dryed/ tested/ redyed Disperse Dyeing- Disperse dyes are the only water insoluble dyes that dye polyester and acetate fibres. Disperse dye molecules are the smallest dye molecules among all dyes.

35 Dyeing Over-dyeing Fabrics made from different fibres Garment dyeing Products dyed late in manufacture Colour fastness- Resistance to colour lossdependent on fibre, dyestuff and use. ISO 105 evaluates different types of fastness in relation to rubbing, washing, ironing, perspiration light, weather and sea water.

36 Printing Rotary screen printing- pigment dye released from roller Machine screen printing- fabric on conveyer belt moved from screen to screen Transfer printing- specialist paper/specialist pressurised, heated calender machine. Direct printing- printing paste (dye) applied directly to fabric Discharge- plain dyed fabric/discharge paste printed on/ground colour removed. Resist- white fabric/ resist paste applied/dyed Digital printing-uses ink jet printers to print CAD designs directly onto fabric Devore printing- chemical printed onto mixed fabric/ chemical burns away cellulose fibre i.e. silk/viscose velvet

37 Components

38 Components

39 Components

40 There are many different types of zip available to manufacturers. (a) (i) Name three different types of zip. (3 marks) (ii) Suggest a use for each type of zip. (3 marks) (iii) Explain why each zip type is suitable for the product named in part (ii). (3 x2 marks) (b) What will a designer/manufacturer need to consider when choosing fastenings for a product? (8 marks) (c) What quality control issues should a manufacturer consider when applying a fastening to a product? Give examples to explain the points you make. (8 marks) Components

41 Textiles Aftercare Bleaching Machine Drying Professional Dry-cleaning & Wet Cleaning Washing Fibre/Content Natural Drying Ironing

42 Colour fastness is the resistance to colour loss during the manufacturing process and in use. A wide range of colourfastness exists for different fibre type and blends. Fastness depends on the type of dye and fabric and there is no universal colour that has the same level of fastness on all types of fibre. Also, different end uses have different fastness requirements. Underwear needs to be fast to perspiration. The ISO 105 standard for fastness: resistance of the colour to rubbing, resistance to washing determines the wash programme that can be used dyes are expected to be fast to the wash programmes at 60 degrees. Resistance to perspiration is very important in underwear, outerwear and sportswear.

43 Textiles labelling Fabric care labels- ITCLC: International Textile Care Labelling Code Consumer legislation says textiles must be fit for purpose under the Sale and Supply of Goods Act. Lion Mark- British Toy and Hobby Association CE mark- Essential safety standards to be sold throughout Europe. What is E-Commerce? What warning must be included on children s nightwear and why? What is the Trades Description Act?